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    The woman's book Publication date 1911

  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  THE
  
  WOMAN'S
  
  BOOK
  
  CONTAINS EVERYTHING A
  WOMAN OUGHT TO KNOW
  
  
  EDITED BY FLORENCE B. JACK, LATE
  PRINCIPAL OF THE SCHOOL OF THE
  DOMESTIC ARTS, EDINBURGH, AND
  RITA STRAUSS, ASSISTED BY MANY
  EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS
  
  
  LONDON: T. C. & E. C. JACK
  
  16 HENRIETTA STREET, W.C. : AND EDINBURGH
  
  1911
  
  
  ^otx^
  
  
  . f\t
  
  
  PREFACE
  
  We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before tbe Woman's
  Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have
  attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and
  not a few mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-
  standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-
  fully to new editions being called for, when any suggestions and corrections
  sent us can be effected.
  
  We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects
  of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied
  a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book
  as a whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.
  Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.
  
  We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter
  for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened
  for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity
  for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the
  work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or
  by women.
  
  It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past
  have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for
  certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the
  educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's
  work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - caUed forth faculties
  of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible
  book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the
  ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In
  writing it we have discovered afresh that the quahties that are demanded of a
  field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary
  quaUfications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,
  tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling
  the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not
  common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon
  
  
  ^0%^^
  
  
  PREFACE
  
  We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before the Woman's
  Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have
  attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and
  not a feAV mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-
  standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-
  fully to new editions being caUed for, when any suggestions and corrections
  sent us can be effected.
  
  We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects
  of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied
  a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book
  as ia whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.
  Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.
  
  We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter
  for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened
  for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity
  for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the
  work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or
  by women.
  
  It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past
  have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for
  certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the
  educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's
  work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - called forth faculties
  of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible
  book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the
  ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In
  writing it we have discovered afresh that the qualities that are demanded of a
  field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary
  qualifications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,
  tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling
  the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not
  common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon
  
  
  vi PREFACE
  
  a woman. Patience, wisdom, self-sacrifice are called for at every hour of the
  day. Morally as well as intellectually the domestic woman's life is rich in
  opportunity.
  
  While, however, we cannot appreciate too highly the value of the work
  done by the domestic woman, it is absurd to regard that as woman's only sphere.
  Many have not the opportunity of such a life : many have not the aptitude
  for it. We have therefore endeavoured to take the widest possible view of
  Woman's sphere. Everything she can do well, that she is entitled to have
  the opportunity of domg. We hope that the information given in the volume
  about the various kinds of work now open to women, and the various agencies
  at work to quaUfy women for the work they can do, will be found useful ; and
  we hope, too, that the manner in which we have presented the domestic informa-
  tion may lead to a higher standard of attainment in woman's greatest industry
  
  - the home.
  
  F. B. J,
  
  R. S.
  
  London,
  
  A-pril 1911.
  
  
  \
  \
  
  
  LIST OF CONTENTS
  
  PAOE
  
  The House - Choice, Construction, Fittings .... 1
  
  Mistress and Servants 41
  
  Guide to Household Work 58
  
  Food and the Kitchen 87
  
  Guide to Cookery 116
  
  The Table 236
  
  Household Linen 257
  
  Guide to Laundry Work . . . . . . .271
  
  Dress - its Choice and Care 301
  
  Etiquette and Social Guide 325
  
  Management of Money and Legal Guide . , . . 362
  
  Plain Sewing and Mending 387
  
  Home Dressmaking 419
  
  Home Millinery 432
  
  Health and the Toilet 447
  
  The Child 466
  
  Holidays and Travel . 498
  
  Home Pets 507
  
  Poultry-Keeping 517
  
  Recreations 524
  
  Home Nursing and " First Aid " 548
  
  Home Gardening 580
  
  Household Repairs and Upholstery 604
  
  Careers for Women 615
  
  Literary and Secretarial Work 62b
  
  Medicine and Nursing 633
  
  Women in Horticulture and in Agriculture . . . 647
  
  Domestic Science 658
  
  Women in Business 665
  
  Civil Service and Public Work 678
  
  Arts and Crafts 682
  
  Social and Philanthropic Work 691
  
  Women in Politics 696
  
  Miscellaneous Facts and Figures 699
  
  vii
  
  
  SOME OF THE CONTRIBUTORS
  
  MRS. BERNARD MOLE, Principal, St. Mary's Nursery College, Hamp-
  stead,
  
  MISS FEDDEN, Principal, St. Martha's College of Housecraft, London.
  
  MISS MAUD COOKES, Head Teacher, Dressmaking and Millinery,
  National Training School of Cookery, London.
  
  MISS ALICE LEMON, M.R.B.W.A.
  
  MISS MARGARET E. BUCHANAN, Ph. Chem., M.P.S., President of
  the Association of Women Pharmacists.
  
  MISS K. M. COURTAULD, Principal of Colne Engaine Farm, Earl's
  Colne, Essex.
  
  MISS N. EDWARDS, President of the Ladies' Poultry Club and
  Principal of Coaley Poultry Farm, Gloucestershire.
  
  MISS BERTHA LA MOTHE, Teacher of and Lecturer on "Bee-
  keeping."
  
  
  viil
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  THEK. is nothing that requires more careful -nsideration than the^^^^^^^^^
  
  qXt^^Stur-t^^^^^^^^^^^^
  
  never a thought to position, site, aspect ventilat3 ox. samtary a^ange..ente^ ^^
  
  purse.
  
  
  First Considerations.- The first point for the
  would-be householder to consider is what rent
  can be afforded, or, if she wislies to Purchase
  the house, what sum can be devoted to this
  purpose. She should be as exact as possible m
  her calculations before she makes up her mmd
  whether to buy or rent a dwelhng Bates and
  taxes have to be considered m both cases. The
  purchase money, it must be remembered, repre-
  sents money which otherwise ^vested would
  have brought in a yeaily rate of interest. Ihe
  loss of this yearly interest must be reckoned as
  equivalent to annual out-of-pocket expenditure,
  aided to which must be the cost of upkeep
  and repairs, and those taxes which, m the case
  of a house let on lease, are paid by the landlord,
  not to speak of the many other expenses which
  the ownership of house property involves.
  
  K it is proposed to lease a house there are
  several points wliich Would increase or decrease
  the expenditure as the case may be. If it is
  taken on a repairing lease, the tenant wiU have
  to see to all repairs both inside and out. _ itos
  will amount to not a little expenditure in the
  course of the year, and therefore repairing leases
  should be avoided where possible. In London,
  however, and many other large towns most ot
  the houses are let upon repau-mg leases. _ In
  these ch-cumstances it is more than ever im-
  portant that the house be in thorough condition
  and repair before the new tenant takes pos-
  session.
  
  
  In some leases a stipulation is made that the
  landlord will attend to aU outside repairs, whilst
  a tenant wiU be held responsible for inside re-
  pairs ; but the ideal arrangement is undoubtedly
  that in which the landlord undertakes to do oM
  repairs, even though the rent may be a httle
  higher in consequence. There are many im-
  portant legal points involved in the drawing up
  of a lease or a deed of purchase (see Law of
  Landlord and Tenant, p. 379). It is always
  advisable, therefore, for the would-be house-
  holder to secure the service of a good and
  reUable house agent to act for her m the trans-
  action. She might also find it expedient to
  consult her lawyer.
  
  A small amount expended upon agent s and
  lawver's fees has often been the means of saving
  large sums of money, and it is worse than folly
  for the householder without any elementary
  knowledge of the law in regard to landlord and
  tenant, or of the intricacies of a contract of sale
  to We to cope with the legal teclmicahties
  invoh^d in a purchase or lease without any
  advice. Even if she does possess some know-
  Tedge of the law, it is better for her to have
  expert advice; often flaws are found in leases
  or agreements which only a trained legal mind
  can detect, and it is always better to be on the
  safe side in these matters. (See Agents Fees,
  
  ^'i?f ^regard to the purchase of a house, this
  may often be done tlirough the medium of a
  
  
  THE WOIMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  good " Bxiilding Society." A Building Society
  advances to its members loans for the purpose
  of acquiring houses, or of ewjquiring land for
  building purposes. In return for the loan, the
  house or land so acquired is mortgaged to the
  Society. \Mion the loan is repaid, the house
  becomes tho absolute property of the member.
  The fund out of wliich the Society grants the
  loans is provided by the subscription of the
  members themselves.
  
  Locality. - Hax-ing calculated to the nearest
  figure the sum of money she is justified in
  spending, or the annual amount for rent, rates,
  smd taxes wliich she can afford to allot out of
  her yesu-ly income, the householder must con-
  sider in what locality she is most likely to obtain
  a house wliich will best meet •w-ith her require-
  ments. If members of the family have to go
  into the city daily, then the residence should
  be one from wliich the city is of easy access.
  House rents in towns are higher than in
  the suburbs, but where a residence in the
  suburbs is selected, train and omnibus fares
  will have to be added to the yearly ex-
  penditure, so that in the long run the dif-
  ference may not be so great. Very often in
  some parts of a town rents will be found to be
  on a cheaper scale than elsewhere, but this is
  mostly the case in streets which do not bear
  the best of reputations ; the character of the
  locality should therefore be well inquired into
  before deciding to profit by a seeming bargain
  in the rental of a town house.
  
  Where there is a family of cliildren, it is better
  as a rule to choose a house in some accessible
  suburb rather than in a town itself. In the
  suburbs good roomy houses with gardens can be
  had at quit" moderate rentals. Houses with
  gsu'dens are rare in town, except at very high
  rentals, whilst in many towns even a high rental
  cannot secure the most minute amount of
  garden space.
  
  A suburb where there is a good train service
  should be selected, and the house should be as
  near as possible to the station. This last is of
  the utmost importance. Some people, whilst
  being careful to select an easily accessible spot
  within twenty minutes' train joiuney of town,
  choose a residence of about half-an-hour's walk
  from the station. If they had chosen a home
  nefir tho station in one of the more remote
  suburbs, they would have been better off. The
  time spent in going backwards and forwards
  would have been the same, and the drawback
  of the long walk to and from the house in
  inclement weather would have been avoided.
  
  Many of the smaller towns, it is true, combine
  the advantages of town and suburban hfe in that
  good dwelling-houses may be had with gardens
  at fairly moderate rentals. These towns, how-
  evfir, are not great centres of activity, and the
  foregoing remarks must only apply, of coxirse,
  to those cases where paterfamilias has to earn
  
  
  liis Uvelihood in one of our large towns or
  cities.
  
  In many cases, it will be argued on behalf
  of the cliildren, that educational faciUties in
  towm are so much greater and cheaper than in
  the suburbs or in the country. Nowadays, how-
  ever, good educational establishments are to be
  found everj'\\-horo, and in regard to specialised
  subjects such as those included in cormnercial
  training, many of the large town estabUshments
  have opened branches in most parts of the
  country. Then, again, if the suburb has been
  selected with due regard to railway facihties,
  cheap fares, &c., there is nothing easier than
  to let the young people go into town for their
  special lessons if necessary. In the selection
  of a house, educational facihties for the cliildren
  should never be overlooked, and for this reason
  it is always better to inquire whether there are
  good schools in the neighbourhood.
  
  The same argument must prevail if the house
  is selected in some country place. In many
  c£ises, apart from all question of low rental, &c.,
  the love of paterfamiUas for the country is so
  great, that not aU the tedium and discomfort
  of the long train journey twice daily will deter
  liim from pitching his tent " far from the
  madding crowd." If he is prepared to endure
  the discomfort, well and good, but the welfare
  of the cliildren from the point of view of educa-
  tion must be considered, and for this reason
  he should take care to be near some good
  educational centre, unless the plan of sending
  the children to a boarding-school is adopted.
  
  If one decides to pitch one's tent in tho
  co'ontry, care should be taken to find out if
  there are one or two good reliable medical men
  within easy distance. In case of illness, the
  fact of having to send two or more miles for
  medical aid may at times amount to actual
  calamity. Such risks should therefore be
  avoided. It is ad\nsable also that the house
  should not be too far away from a village where
  food and other commodities can be purchased.
  
  The chief drawback to residence in the country
  hes in the fact that up-to-date arrangements
  in regard to sanitation, water supply, and light-
  ing are not always to be found, and although
  many charms are to be found in hfe in a country
  cottage, there are also in many cases disadvan-
  tages which will more than counterbalar .-o these
  charms if great care and discrimination are
  not exercised in the choice of both locality and
  dwelling.
  
  House versus Flat. - The comparative merits
  of houses and flats as places of residence will ever
  be a debatable subject. There is no doubt,
  however, that as regards town life, for people
  of moderate means, flats represent the minimum
  amount of annual outlay. It is much easier
  for a woman to regulate her expenditure when
  she knows that the sums she pays yearly for
  her flat will cover not only rent, but also rates
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  and taxes. As the latter usually amount to a
  third of the rental, this is a most important con-
  sideration. Then there is an old saying that
  " a large house is a big tliief," and many a
  weary householder, harassed at the thought
  of high wages claimed by servants, large sums
  spent in cleaning and keeping the house in
  repair, has proved the truth of this old adage.
  
  With a flat expenditure is kept within easy
  bounds ; none of the thousand and one odd
  expenses are Uable to crop up in veirious unex-
  pected quarters as in the case of a house, and all
  the rooms being on one floor, one's housework
  is reduced to a minimum, and the amoiint spent
  on servants' wages is correspondingly decreased.
  
  There is also the additional advantage of
  security, for one feels quite safe when leaving
  for the annual holiday in locking up the flat
  and placing the key in the care of the doorkeeper.
  It can also be locked up during the daytime,
  when one wishes to go out, without the necessity
  of leaving any one in charge.
  
  On the other hand, a flat nas many disad-
  vantages as compared with a complete dwelling-
  house. The rooms are small, in many cases
  dark, the larder and cellar accommodation poor
  - dress cupboards are generally conspicuous by
  their absence, and in even the best and most
  expensive of flats the servant's room, where
  there is one, is little better than a cupboard in
  size. Then, again, flats at the lower rentals are
  always on the top or second top stories of a
  building or else in the basement. In the case
  cf the luxurious buildings which are let out in
  flats at high rentals a lift will be provided, but
  this is seldom the case in regard to the buildings
  at which flats are let out at moderate rents. In
  the absence of a lift there will be the weary
  cUmb up high flights of stone steps before one
  can reach one's dwelling, a disadvantage which
  does much to counterbalance the advantage of
  the rooms being On one floor. But even with
  this disadvantage, top floor flats are preferable
  to flats in the basement in regard to light and
  ventilation.
  
  In a flat it is impossible to maintain the same
  degree of privacy as in a house. One's slumbers
  are apt to be disturbed in the small hours of
  the morning by the efforts of some conscientious
  youngster laboriously practising five finger
  exercises in the flat below, or else a " musical
  evening " in the flat opposite continued far
  into the night, though very enjoyable to those
  whom it may concern, succeeds in robbing you
  of those precious hours of " beauty sleep " wliich
  you prize so highly. In case of contagious illness
  olso the danger of infection is greater, as isola-
  tion is more difficult.
  
  On the whole, there are many things to be
  said for and against flat life ; but it may be
  taken as a general rule that for the young couple
  beginning housekeeping on strictly limited
  means, a flat is always best from the point of
  
  
  view of keeping down expenditure ; whilst in
  the case of a family of young children, flat life
  is incompatible with comfort owing to the
  hmited space available, and the very fact of all
  the rooms being on one floor is in these cir-
  cimistances a positive disadvantage.
  
  Site and Soil. - Absence of damp is of the
  utmost importance to health, and in tliis re-
  spect a great deal will depend on the soil upon
  which the house is built. A gravel soil or chalk
  soil above the water level is best. A clay soil,
  being non-porous, retains moisture and should
  be avoided.
  
  On the other hand, the position of the site is
  an important factor in determining the advantage
  or disadvantage of the soil upon which it is built.
  Generally speaking, a house should never stand
  low : it often happens that a house standing
  on high ground, although built on clay soil, is
  dryer than a low-lying dwelling situated in a
  valley upon gravel soil. Trees are desirable,
  if not too near the house, as they aid in drjnng
  the soil, certain trees such as eucalyptus, plane,
  and poplar being specially useful.
  
  what is known as " made-up ground " is
  about the worst soil upon which a house can be
  built. The word " made " is true in its actual
  sense, for the ground consists of holes and
  hollows wliich have been Uterally filled up with
  all sorts of rubbish and refuse to make a founda-
  tion. The danger of building on such a soil,
  which will in many cases be largely composed
  of organic matter from which noxious gases
  emanate- and force their way upwards, is ob\'ious.
  Carefiil inquiry should therefore be made in
  regard to this important question of soil before
  selecting a dwelling.
  
  Construction. - ^The absence of damp will also
  depend to a great extent upon the construction
  of the house, proper construction tending to
  minimise many of the disadvantages of an
  unsuitable soil. Houses built on clay soil should
  be well raised above the ground level, and should
  possess neither cellars nor basements. Houses
  with basements must be very carefully con-
  structed with the view of preventing the damp
  from rising up the floor and lower walls. The
  subsoil should be drained by means of subsoil
  drain-pipes, which consist of short earthenware
  pipes laid in trenches several feet below the
  surface (see p. 4). To prevent dampness rising
  through the floor of the basement, the floor
  should be built upon a bed of concrete, wliilst to
  prevent moisture from rising up the lower walls,
  these should not only be constructed upon a
  foundation of concrete, but what is known as a
  " damp course " should be provided. A " damp
  coiorse " consists of an impervious layer of
  cement, slate, asphalt, or bitumen, wliich is
  placed in the brick-work of the wall above the
  ground level, but below the floor. Houses with
  basements should always be separated fi-om
  the street by an area.
  
  
  4
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  A great deal of the comfort and well-being
  of the inhabitants of a house ^\-ill depend upon
  the plan upon which it is built. Houses with
  basements alwaj's entail work for servants in
  going up and down stairs between the dining-
  room and the kitchen. On the other hand, in
  bouses where the kitchen and dining-room are
  on one floor, care should be taken that the
  kitchen is not situated in such close proximity
  to the other rooms as to make the smell of
  cooking go all over the house. The ideal plan is
  to have the kitchen and pantry shut off from
  the rest of the rooms on the first floor by a
  
  
  one of the upper landings in addition to the bath-
  room. There should in all cases be a housemaid's
  pantry on one of the upper landings in which
  she can keep pails and brushes.
  
  Too much stress cannot be laid upon the
  necessity of the house being thoroughly dry:
  for this reason it is never vrise to take up resi-
  dence too soon in a newly-built house, as the
  walls are usually damp. Fires should be kept
  burning in all the rooms for as long a period as
  possible before going into a new house.
  
  A httle wall-peeling and discoloration in the
  case of a new house is almost unavoidable, but
  
  
  nnn.
  
  
  Illustration showing Concrete Foundation ol a House with Damp Course
  and Drainage System.
  
  
  A, House drain.
  
  B. Concrete foundation.
  
  C. Intercepting trap.
  
  D, N. Gulleys.
  
  
  F. Dry area.
  
  G, H. Damp proof course.
  K. AV.C.
  
  L. Soil pipe.
  
  
  O. Rainwater pipe.
  
  P. Dath waate-water pipe.
  
  R. Sink.
  
  
  separate little passage and door, the passage
  running between the kitchen and pantry, the
  latter being placed at the back of the dining-
  room, with a hatch, i.e. a small cupboard like
  an aperture in the wall itself opening from
  the pantry into the dining-room, through which
  dishes may be passed to the servant waiting at
  table. WTien not in use, this little cupboard
  can be kept closed and will not be noticeable.
  A lift from the kitchen to the dining-room whore
  there is a basement is a very great help ; but
  these are a.s a rule expensive to fit in and are
  luxuries not within the reach of the many.
  Plenty of cupboards are also desirable, including
  a hot-air cupboard for the airing of linen. If
  the house is a high one, water should be laid on
  
  
  if, when looking over a house which has been
  built for some time, the paper is seen to be
  discoloured, this may be taken as a suio sign
  of damp, and the house should be avoided. In
  these cases a musty damp smell will almost
  invariably be present ; a house of this kind
  cannot possibly be healthy, and residence in
  damp dwellings is a most proUfic cause of all
  kinds of illness. Many a case of chronic rheu-
  matism can be traced to residence in a damp
  house. Care should also be taken to find out
  if the roof is in good condition, as dampness in
  the upper rooms may often be traced to some
  defect in the roof, lliough for the purpose of
  drainage of the soil it is well to have trees
  near the house, they must not be too near, as
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  in this case they are liable to make it damp.
  Ivy growing up the walls of the house, though
  very pretty and decorative in appearance, is
  also a cause of damp.
  
  Aspect. - A house should also be carefully
  selected in regard to its aspect. Generally
  speaking, the front should face south-west or
  south-east. The front bedrooms and sitting-
  rooms will in this way catch the morning sun,
  wliilst the back rooms will have the afternoon
  sun. For this reason it is advisable to have as
  many bedrooms in the front as possible. The
  breakfast-room should also have a sunny aspect ;
  where there is no breakfast-room, the dining-
  room should be in the front of the house in
  order that the cheering influence of the morning
  sun may be enjoyed at breakfast, whilst the
  drawing-room will do well in a position where
  it receives the sunsliine in the afternoon. It is
  not advisable, as a rule, to choose a house facing
  due north ; the rooms will be dark through
  absence of sunlight, and the house will be cold,
  requiring a much greater degree of artificial
  ■warmth in winter to make it habitable than in
  the case of a south-west or south-east aspect.
  
  DRAINAGE
  
  A house should not be purchased nor an
  agreement for a lease entered into before the
  ptirchaser or lessee is satisfied that the drainage
  system is in thorough order. To make sure
  of this, it is essential to take independent
  expert ad\nce upon the subject and to have
  the premises examined by a sanitary en-
  gineer. FaiUng this, it would be advisable to
  insist upon a written guarantee from the vendor
  or landlord that the drains have been recently
  tested and are in good condition. It is well,
  however, to always have an independent opinion,
  therefore the former plan is the better of the
  two, and by adopting it the intending pur-
  chaser or tenant procects himself from becoming
  saddled with a house where insanitary con-
  ditions prevail.
  
  However well a house may be constructed
  in regard to light and ventilation, if the drainage
  is wrong, siclcness and disease will invariably
  follow, and a Uttle trouble and expense in in-
  vestigating this important matter in the first
  instance will save no end of trouble and expense
  in the long run.
  
  The most usual system of drainage or disposal
  of sewage prevaUiiig in towns and almost all but
  remote country places is that known as the
  " water-carriage system " by wliich all the
  sewage is can-ied off underground in pipes called
  drains. Tlie following drain-pipes are to be
  found in the average house -
  
  The sink pipe for taldng away water from the
  sink; the water pipe for taking away the bath
  water ; the soil pipe (discharging from the
  water-closets), with its ventilating pipe carried
  
  
  above the roof ; the outer drain pipe for carry-
  ing off superfluous water.
  
  These pipes all lead to the house drain which,
  in its turn, is connected with the street sewer.
  It is not only important that all drains
  should be properly constructed, but also that
  they be kept in good condition if the house
  is to be health}'. To this end they should be
  regularly examined and all defects put right
  with the least delay possible.
  
  Good drains should be ( 1 ) water-tight ; (2) well
  ventilated ; (3) without direct connection be-
  tween those carrj^ing sewage and those carry-
  ing waste from baths, basins, and the Hke ; (4)
  well flushed.
  
  (1) In order to be water-tight, the drain-pipes
  are best made of iron, but owing to the expense
  this involves they are generally made of earthen-
  ware. Long iron pipes with lead joints consti-
  tute the most water-tight system invented so far.
  The bed in wliich the pipes are laid must not be
  Uable to sink, or the joints wiU give, even al-
  though firmly cemented. For this purpose, care
  must be taken not to sink the original trenches
  deeper than is necessary, as any fiUing in with
  fresh earth promotes consequent sagging.
  
  (2) The ventilation must be very thorough,
  or sewer gas wiU find its way into the house in
  spite of the most careful traps to prevent it.
  
  (3) The waste pipes from baths, &c., should
  never open directly into the sewer, even although
  the connection is guarded by a trap. They
  should pour their water into an open receiver or
  gully placed outside the house, and the gully
  should be connected with the sewer. Then if
  any sewer gas escapes from the gully, it will pass
  off in the open air without being conducted into
  the house. In the case of all pipes connection
  with the sewer must be guarded by a trap.
  Traps are devised to prevent the escape of
  sewer gas from the drain into the house. Many
  of the older traps had the drawback that they
  allowed filth to accumulate in them. U- or
  S-shaped traps are the ones now cliiefly used.
  By having it of either shape, whenever the
  drain is flushed some water is retained in
  the bent part or trap, which then prevents the
  passage of gas through this portion of the pipe.
  The water used to flush the water-closet should
  not come direct from the chief cistern, but from
  a special small cistern, the water of which is
  never used for drinking purposes. By tliis
  means, if sewer gas passes into the small cistern,
  it will be absorbed by the water in it with-
  out passing on to the chief water-drinking
  cistern.
  
  (4) In order that a drain may be well flushed,
  not only must an ample supply of water pass
  down it, but the drain must be laid at such an
  inchne that the flow is sufficiently rapid. It
  must be fairly narrow and as straight as possible
  for the same reason ; and, again, friction must
  be reduced by making the internal surface
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  smooth. By these means the accumulation of
  filth IS reduced to a minimum.
  
  Testing the drains is done by plugging the
  outlet of tlie suspectod drain at the nearest
  manhole and tlien filling it with water from
  the nearest water-closot. If a leak is present,
  the water soon sinks, and if many leaks are
  present, it may not be possible to fill the
  drain at all. Suspected leaks may also be
  tested by pouring down strong oil of pepper-
  mint or assafetida in hot water, whilst a
  second person in the room below determines
  whetlier the odour escapes or not, but tliis
  method is not so thorough as the former
  test, thougli more easily performed by the
  householder.
  
  Tlie water-closet must bo of such a pattern
  that it is always clean and efficiently trapped,
  has no direct connection with the drinking-
  water cistern, and is flushed by a special
  cistern of its own which should hold from
  two to tliree gallons. Tlie " wash-out " closet
  and the " valve " closet are two of the best
  patterns in use at present - a " hopper " closet
  is conunonly used, and it is satisfactory if a
  short hopper is used, but a long hopper is
  to be condemned for its lack of cleanhness.
  What is known as the " pan " closet is an
  old form of closet which cannot bo too strongly
  condemned. Tlie traps should be furnished
  with anti-siphonage pipes to prevent them be-
  coming unsealed. In well-built houses water-
  closets are always separated from the other
  portion of the house by a small passage, and
  where there are two or three they are placed on
  the different landings one above the other. In
  properly constructed houses all places where
  water is laid on, such as the bath-room, lava-
  tories, hou36-maid's sinks, should come one over
  the other on the various floors.
  
  The Earth System. - In the country, where a
  sufficient water-supply is not always available
  for a complete water-borne system of drainage,
  what is known as the " Earth " system is the
  most sanitary to adopt. In this system earth
  is used instead of water in the closet pails, and
  the contents of the latter are buried at intervals
  in the garden.
  
  The principle of the earth system is founded on
  the well-known power possessed by dry earth
  of deodorising and disinfecting faecal matter -
  a given quantity of earth, if applied in detail to
  fresh excrement, destroying all smell and absorb-
  ing all noxious vapours. Where sufficient earth
  is not available, ashes should be used. Moule's
  earth closets are amongst the best-known sanitary
  appliances used in connection with this system.
  
  Removal of Refuse. - All the dry refuse of a
  house which does not come under the designa-
  tion of " sewage," is removed by dustmen in
  the employ of the local authorities at regular
  intorv'-als. The most sanitary dustbins are made
  of zinc. The dustbin should be kept closed to
  
  
  keep out rain and damp, otherwise the contents
  will quickly decompose, and noxious odours will
  be the result. It should not be kept too near
  the wall of the house, but sliould bo at least sis
  feet away from it. Only dry refuse should be
  placed in the dustbin. All vegetable matter,
  such as potato peirings, &c., should be burnt if
  noxious and unsanitary odours are to be avoided.
  (See Kitchen Refuse, p. 94.)
  
  WATER-SUPPLY
  
  A pure and abundant water-supply is a
  necessity in every house. Care must be taken,
  therefore, to flnd out ( 1 ) if the supply is good ;
  (2) if it is constant or intermittent; (3) if the
  latter, whether the cisterns are adequate for the
  storage of the water and Eire in good condition.
  
  In regard to the purity of the water, this
  should be ascertained by applying to the county
  or borough analyst for an analysis. The usual
  fee for this analysis is one guinea. As a rule the
  water-supply in large towns is pure. When, as
  in country districts, the water is derived from
  wells, the utmost precautions should be taken.
  All well water should be boiled before use,
  as it is very liable to pollution. If a well is
  shallow the risk of contamination is often con-
  siderable. A well should be deep and have its
  sides protected by some waterproof material
  to prevent the surface water from entering it.
  The best wells are those wliich are driven
  tlirough the first impervious stratum so as to
  tap the one lying below.
  
  Filters are largely used for purifying water,
  but a number of those in domestic use are not
  so effective as is generally supposed. Many
  stop some of the germs, which then flourish in
  the substance of the filter and infect all subse-
  quent water that passes through. Hence puri-
  fication of the water by boiling is a much safer
  method. Among the more reliable filters are
  the Pasteur-Chamberland and the Berkefeld.
  In the Peisteur-Chamberland filter the water
  passes tlirough a thick-walled unglazed earthen-
  ware tube, which stops germs. It has been
  recommended to clean this by brushing the
  outside with a stiff brush ; as, however, the
  germs are not only outside but probably also
  distributed tlirough the substance of the porce-
  lain, to be thoroughly cleansed it should be
  boiled or a new tube substituted. All filters
  require thorough and constant cleansing if they
  are to be effective. A dirty filter will do more
  harm than good.
  
  In most towns there is now what is called a
  " constant water-supply.'" The constant supply
  system renders cisterns for the storage of water
  unnecessary, excepting in connection with the
  hot-water supply. Where there is what is known
  as an " intermittent supply " tlie water is
  turned off for a certain time each day. In these
  circumstances the intending householder should
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  find out if the cisterns are large enough for the
  adequate storage of the water during those
  hours in which the supply is cut oS, and also
  if the cisterns are clean and in thoroughly good
  condition. Cisterns shoxild never under any
  circumstances be left uncovered, but should be
  provided with a well-fitting Ud. No house
  should be taken until it has been ascertained that
  all cisterns have been thoroughly cleaned by
  the plumber. This cleaning should be repeated
  at regular intervals. Tlie cisterns should be
  made of galvanised iron. An overflow pipe
  should be provided for any overflow of water
  that might arise ; tliis pipe should discharge
  into the open air and never into a soil pipe or
  drain, or pollution of the water by sewage gases
  is likely to result. Cisterns from which drinking
  Water is drawn shoidd be as far as possible from
  water-closets and drains. The simple precaution
  of letting the water run a Uttle before drawing it
  in the morning for drinking purposes should
  always be taken, as it should be remembered
  that the water has been stationary in the pipes
  all night, and the supply is therefore not so pure
  as when constantly drawn from during the
  day.
  
  Hot- Water Supply. - ^A good hot-water supply
  is a necessity in every household, and a great
  deal of the comfort of the house depends upon
  this supply being adequate to the demands made
  upon it.
  
  In most houses the water is heated by the
  kitchen range, at the back of which is a boiler ;
  from this hot water is conveyed to the hot-water
  tank by means of circulation pipes. The supply
  of hot water will depend to a great extent upon
  the efiicacy of the kitchen range and the supply
  system installed. The two best-known systems
  in this connection are the " tank " and the
  " Cylinder " system. In the first system a tank
  is supphed for storage
  of hot water, while
  a cyhnder takes the
  place of the tank in
  connection with the
  second system. Before
  taking a house, care
  should be taken to
  ascertain whether the
  hot-water system is
  in thorough working
  order.
  
  Heating Water by
  Gas. - There are other
  methods, however, of
  securing a hot-water
  supply independent
  of the kitchen-range.
  There has been placed
  upon the market with-
  in recent years an ap-
  paratus known as a " Circulator." Tlais is a
  small boiler heated by gas which can easilj' be
  
  
  Hot-water Circulator.
  
  
  connected to the " flow " and " return " pipes
  from the coal-range boiler, and will then with
  a quite moderate consumption of gas supply hot
  water to the circulating tank, either indepen-
  dently of, or in conjunction with, the coal -range
  boiler, the working of the latter, in the event
  of the kitchen fire being lighted, being in
  no way interfered with. These circulators are
  specially adapted for use in flats, and in villas
  where the length of the circulating pipes are
  not abnormal.
  
  In small houses and flats where gas is
  used exclusively as fuel, many people obtain
  their supply of water for the bath by installing
  a geyser in the bath-room for the purpose
  of heating the bath water, whilst the water
  for kitchen and other purposes is boiled on
  the gas stove. Geysers for the purpose can
  be hired from all the gas companies. The
  geyser, however, does not give a storage of hot
  water throughout the house, and does not
  therefore fully take the place of the range boiler
  as does the circulator. It is a useful accessory
  to the bath-room, however, in summer, as hot
  water for the bath can be obtained by this
  means independently of the kitchen range.
  
  VENTHATION
  
  A supply of fresh pure air is essential to
  health, hence it follows that homes shotild
  be well ventilated. Good air must be admitted
  and bad air expelled. Ventilation is the
  renewal of the air contained in a room. Thљ
  necessity for such renewal increases with the
  number of people occupjnng it, and the number
  of lights burning in it. Both lights and people
  ahke use up the oxygen of the air and dis-
  charge into it a certain amount of carbon-
  dioxide ; but the human breath has a more
  noxious effect than the flamo of an ordinary
  lamp or gas jet, for it emits a certain quantity
  of highly poisonous organic matter, and it is
  chiefly this which vitiates the air and gives it
  the well-known " stuffy " odour.
  
  Every one is aware that air that has been
  breathed is warm, and that warm air rises.
  Many people think that if a room is sufficiently
  lofty the bad air will all accumulate near the
  roof and the air near the floor will not be \-itiated
  for many hours. This is a gi'eat mistake, for
  unless some means of letting out the bad air
  is provided, its warmth will soon become lost
  and its moisture will condense, causing the
  bad air to become heavier than the fresh air,
  when it will sink and niingle with the latter
  and a vitiated atmosphere will be the result.
  As a matter of fact, the bad air rarely rises
  liigher than twelve feet before it becomes cool
  and descends.
  
  Every room, therefore, that is to be ade-
  quately ventilated requires both an inlet for
  good and an outlet for bad air.
  
  
  8
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  To secure the ventilation of a dwelling-room
  vre reciuire no ceiling to be higher than
  tvpelve feet, but the windows slaould reach
  the coiling and be open at the top. A fire-
  place should always be present and the chimney
  register should never be closed. Tlie window
  and the cliininey are the two readiest means of
  ventilation.
  
  The ventilation should be arranged so that
  the fresh air is lot in with its current directed
  upwards, and the bad air let out near the
  ceiUng. It is an error to ventilate the room
  into the passage bj' lea\nng the door open and
  the window closed. " Windows were made to
  be opened, doors to be shut." Bedroom
  ■windows, especially, should never be altogether
  closed at the top. Care should be taken that
  the bed is placed so that the cold air does
  not beat down upon the sleeper.
  
  The danger of draughts, however, must be
  reckoned with in many cases, and for deUcate
  
  
  The ninckes-Bird Method
  of Ventilation.
  
  people wide-open windows in winter are not
  always advisable. In these circumstances a
  very simple system of ventilation known as the
  Hinckes-Bird method should be adopted. It
  consists in raising the lower sash of a window a
  few inches, and blocking up the opening with a
  piece of boarding as long as the width of the
  window and about six inches broad, thus allow-
  ing the fresh air to enter the room, but only
  between the two sashes, and with an upper
  current.
  
  The proper ventilation of a house will depend
  to a great extent upon its warming arrange-
  ments. Somo grates are constructed so that
  the fire burning in them serves to warm the air
  before it enters the room. A Galton's grate, fur
  instance, has an air-space behind the chimney
  communicating below with the outside air and
  above with the interior of the room, the heat
  of the chimney being in this way used to warm
  the incoming air.
  
  A very simple means of ventilating ordinary
  dwelling-houses is found in what is known as
  
  
  the " Sheringham Valve," which is a metal
  guard placed aroimd an aperture in the wall,
  so arranged as to direct the incoming air upwards
  and made to work on a liinge so as to show the
  opening when desired.
  
  A Tohin'a Tube is a pipe the lower end of
  which communicates through an opening in the
  wall with the outside air, whilst tlie upper end
  opens into the room about six feet above the
  floor.
  
  Among other simple aids to ventilation with-
  out draught are the following : -
  
  Perforaled Bricks, communicating with the
  room by gratings, wliich servo to break up the
  current and thus prevent the draught from
  being felt.
  
  Boyle's Valve inserted in the cliimney near
  the coihng. Tliis contrivance consists of an
  apertiire leading into the chimney with two
  talc flaps, forming a valve, which permits the
  air of the room to enter the chimney, but
  prevents the smoke from entering the room.
  
  Louvre Panes, consisting of slips of glass placed
  obliquely in an oblong opening cut in the
  window pane. They are commonly used in
  shop windows that do not open. The Cooper
  rose ventilator is on the same principle.
  
  
  LIGHTING
  
  The proper lighting of a house is essential
  not only from the point of view of the
  health, but also for the comfort of its inhabi-
  tants. A person is more influenced by his or
  her svuToundings than one would think - good
  temper and cheeriness come naturally amid
  cheerful surroundings, whereas dark, gloomy,
  and ill-lighted premises tend to have a most
  depressing effect upon even the most optimistic
  of individuals.
  
  Good natural light during the daytime may
  be secured by a wise choice of aspect (see p. 5).
  Stained-glass windows should be avoided in
  living rooms. JIany people elect to have the
  lower sashes of their dining-rooms, for instance,
  of stained glass. The effect may bo imposing,
  perhaps, but it is certainly not cheerful, and
  grandeur is dearly bought at the expense of the
  light and cheeriness of a room. Then, again,
  creepers should not be allowed to grow over
  the front of the house in such a way as to over-
  shadow the windows, nor should the light be
  shut out by the too close proximity of trees.
  It must bo remembered tliat plenty of light
  is essential to our health, and care should be
  taken therefore to secure it.
  
  Artlflclal Lighting. - In towns electric light and
  gas form the chief artificial illuminants. Gas
  is also suppUed in a large number of country
  places, but where this is not to bo had, lamps
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  are generally used. In large country houses,
  however, air gas is often made from a plant on
  the premises.
  
  Electric Light as an illuminant has many
  advantages. It is cleanly, hygienic, and con-
  venient; and if caxe is taken in regulating its use,
  the quarterly electric hght bill may be kept well
  within bounds. It is very little trouble to switch
  off the hght when one leaves the room, and if this
  is done not once in a way, but as a general rule,
  a substantial sa-ving on the electric light bill is
  the result. Low candle-power lights should be
  used in the bedrooms, one or two 7 or 8 candle-
  power lamps being usually sufficient for each
  room.
  
  Economy may also be exercised by means
  of the electric lamps selected. Tantalum
  and many of the other metallic filament
  lamps, whilst giving a much brighter Ught than
  the ordinary incandescent lamps with carbon
  filaments, consume much less current than the
  latter, and are therefore more economical.
  
  In connection with the installation of an
  electric plant for Ughting in country mansions
  situated in localities where there is no pubUc
  supply, the initial outlay will necessarily be
  higher. Where a pubUc supply is available
  the only expense will be that of wiring the
  premises and purchasing the necessary fixtures.
  In most oases the latter may be hired from
  the electric hght company by payment of a
  fixed sum every year. The cost of electric
  hght varies in different towns. In London
  it averages from 4d. to 5d. per unit for hght-
  ing, whilst for heating purposes the cost is Id.
  per unit.
  
  Coal Gas is obtained by the distillation of
  coal in large chambers or retorts. The dis-
  tillation proceeds for about four hours under a
  great heat, and the products are broadly coke,
  gas, and coal tar. The gas is then cooled,
  washed with water, and treated with slaked
  lime to remove impurities.
  
  The large cylindrical vessels so prominent in
  all gas works are the gas-holders, from which the
  supply issues to the consumers. These holders
  rise and sink in a tank of water by their own
  weight and the upward pressure of the gas in-
  side. The gas is conveyed from the holder by
  mains and from the mains to the consumer by
  service pipes.
  
  The use of coal gas as an illuminant is almost
  universal, and many important improvements in
  regard to fittings have been made within recent
  years which have increased its usefulness to a
  remarkable degree.
  
  IMeters are used to meastu-e the gas consumed,
  and it is important that every householder
  should know how to read and check the meter.
  Gas meters are usually lent on liire to the con-
  sumer by the gas company. It is important
  that the supply of gas to the burner should be
  regulated. Tliis can always be done by means
  
  
  of a regulator or " governor " on the main pipes
  or governor burners.
  
  Incandescent Gas. - This is by far the most
  superior and effective method of gas hghting.
  It is used in connection with special burners
  which admit air to be burned with the gas, a
  most brilUant effect being achieved by the
  illumination of the wliito mantle which is
  used in conjunction with the burner. The
  biirner is usually fitted with a by -pass for lower-
  ing and raising the light. By means of this
  by-pass the gas may be left turned on at the
  stop-cock, whilst only the faintest flicker of a
  flame is left on the burner. The Veritas and
  Welsbach mantles are amongst the best known
  and most effective to lase with incandescent
  gas.
  
  Amongst the latest improvements in connec-
  tion with gas hghting may be classed the
  Pneumatic Gas Switch, by means of which
  gas can be switched on in the same manner as
  electric Ught. With tliis simple apparatus any
  number of gas hghts can be switched on or off,
  separately or together. It consists of three
  parts - a switch, a valve and a coil of small tubing.
  The switch turns the gas up or down from any
  position or distance. The valve with by-pass
  complete screws on to any ordinary gas bracket
  or chandeher at the burner, winch is easily done
  without tools of any kind, whilst the tube, which
  is as small and flexible as a beU wire, conducts
  the air pressure from the switch to the valve,
  and is attached to the wall or woodwork with
  small staples suppUed with the sets. By touch-
  ing the switch, air pressm-e is sent through the
  fine tube, and the Hght is thus turned either
  on or off as desired. One of the special features
  of the gas switch is the fact that no batteries
  or chemicals of any kind whatever are requii-ed.
  It is self-contained and requires no further
  attention when fitted. Another advantage to
  be found in using tlais switch lies in the fact
  that incandescent mantles will be found to last
  much longer owing to the fact that the gas
  switches on easily ; it does away with the sUght
  explosion which always takes place when a
  match or taper is apphed when hghting the gas
  in the usual way.
  
  Air Gas, - In large country houses where there
  is no pubhc gas-supply, air gas is largely used
  for lighting purposes. Tliis is manufactured "
  from a plant on the promises, and there are many
  apparatus for the purpose on the market. One
  of the best apparatus for manivfacturing air
  gas is that sold by Messrs. W. A. S. Benson and
  Co., Ltd., of 82 and 83 New Bond Street, London,
  W. It is known as the " Aeos " Gas Apparatus.
  Tlie hght given by " Aeos " gas, whilst being
  brilliant and pure white, is exceedingly soft and
  restful. The apparatus is exceedingly simple,
  as the plant is whoUy automatic ; it is £ilso
  absolutely safe to use, being non-explosive.
  
  The price for a 25-light apparatus capable
  
  
  10
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  of supplying 25-26 candle-power burners would
  be as follows : -
  
  Apparatus £42 0 0
  
  Pump and Tank 5 10 0
  
  Carriage, including return of emjities,
  
  about 3 10 0
  
  £51 0 0
  
  
  whilst the cost of installing would be about £1
  per point. Once the initial cost of installation
  has been borne this gas proves one of the most
  economical ilhiminants it is possible to have.
  
  Electric Light, Gas and Oil Fittings.- A great
  deal of the beauty of a room depends upon the
  choice and position of suitable Ughting fittings.
  In the dining-room there should always be
  a centre light coming over the dinner-table in
  addition to any other bracket hghts necessary.
  With electric fittings it is as well to have one or
  two lamps to the centre hght which are switched
  on by different switches, so that either one or
  more of the lamps can be lighted at will. A red
  silk shade over the centre light has a most
  softening and soothing effect. The metal work
  is most effective when of antique copper or
  brass.
  
  In the drawing-room which is lighted by
  electricity, the centre pendant is of different
  design, usually consisting of a number of lights,
  each with separate ornamental glass shades.
  A high electric standard lamp, with a pretty silk
  shade of a light colour to tone with the general
  decorative scheme of the room, gives a very
  pretty effect, as do small lamps to be placed on
  mantelpiece, table, or piano as desired.
  
  The hall should be provided with a hang-
  ing centre lamp of lantern design, whilst,
  especially in houses built in the Queen Anne
  style, a plain old-time iron lantern should be
  hung outside the porch.
  
  In the billiard-room the lights over the table
  should have plain green shades. In the Ubrary
  or study a centre light with one or two small
  metal table standard lamps with soft silk shades
  should bo provided.
  
  In the bedrooms there should always be a
  light in front of the toilet table and one over
  the bed, the latter to be turned on by a switch
  at the side of the bed.
  Pretty soft silk shades
  of a light bright colour
  to tone with the colour-
  ing of the room should
  be used ; pale pink and
  pale green shades are
  very effective.
  
  Gas and Oil Lamps. -
  In regard to gas, where
  inverted incandescent
  burners are used, fit-
  tings for centre hghts and bracket hghts may be
  very bimilar to those used for electric hght, and
  
  
  \
  
  
  Bray's Inverted Burner.
  
  
  whore the " switch on " system is installed, the
  illusion can be made almost complete.
  
  Meiny of the disadvantages comiected with
  the use of oil for house hghting can be minimised
  by moans of suitable fittings. Pendant lamps
  should be used as much as possible. In the
  hall a lantern lamp is most effective. The
  dining-room lamp can be provided with a pretty
  silk shade, or, whore it is preferred, a plain wliite
  glass shade, and can be carried out in wrought
  iron metal work or polished brass. (For Care of
  Lamps, see p. 77.)
  
  Bracket lamps for hanging on walls are eJso
  made in many pretty and effective designs.
  
  Warming the House. - The comfort of the house
  will depend not a httle upon the method of
  artificial heating adopted during the cold season.
  Warming should always be considered in relation
  to ventilation as there is a very close connection
  between the two.
  
  Rooms may be warmed either by open fire-
  pleices, closed stoves (for burning of coal or coke,
  g£is and oil), or by hot- water pipes and radiators.
  
  The old-fashioned open grate will always be
  popular in EngUsh homes. There is some-
  tiling Very cheery and comforting about a
  good bright coal fire that is lacking with closed-
  in stoves and other methods of heating. It is
  true it consumes a large amount of fuel for the
  heat it yields, as most of the heat goes up the
  cliimney, but it makes the chimney a vtiluable
  ventilation shaft, wliich many more economical
  grates do not. A great deal of the heat-giving
  capacity of a fire will, of course, depend upon
  the construction of the grate. Tlie best heating
  fire-places have the back and sides of brick and
  not of iron, as brick radiates back the heat,
  whilst iron lets heat slip through it up the
  chimney. The back should loan over the fire,
  not away from it. The sUts in the grid that the
  coal rests on should be narrow so that cinders
  may not fall tlirough and be wasted. Tlie bars
  in front of the grate should also be narrow, and
  the space beneath the fixe should be closed up
  in front by means of an iron sliield. Again, the
  grate should be wider in front than at the back.
  All these principles of construction are to be
  found in the grates devised by Pridgin Teale
  and Lionel Teale ; the Teale system, in fact, has
  formed the basis of all the latest improvemeats
  in fire-grates. Many fire-places are now made
  almost entirely of glazed briquette, this mate.-ial
  covering both the hearth and fire-place surround.
  This is undoubtedly one of the most 8U"tistic as
  well as one of the most heat-giving styles of
  grate.
  
  An adjustable canopy is in most cases fitted to
  the top of modern grates.
  
  Many of the newer types of grate are con-
  structed wthout the front bars. Of these the
  Wells fire-grates are perhaps the best known.
  The " Burkone " patent barlesa fire is another
  also of escelleat design ; both grates are so coo-
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  11
  
  
  Btrueted as to give the maximum of heat with
  a mimimum consumption of fuel.
  
  Stoves. - Closed stoves greatly economise fuel
  at the expense of ventilation. They often give
  the room a stuffy odour, probably from organic
  matter in the air being charred by contact with
  the stove, and also from the fact that hot iron
  is porous and permits the escape of some of the
  gaseous products of combustion tlirough it.
  They also tend to make the atmosphere un-
  pleasantly dry. This latter defect can be
  remedied to a certain extent, however, by
  keeping trays of water around the stove. The
  ventilating stoves specially constructed to admit
  air by means of pipes or tubes are the best kind
  to use. Various kinds of fuel are used for burn-
  ing in these stoves, chief amongst which are coal,
  coke, and anthracite coal.
  
  The last-named is a slow-burning natural coal
  wliich has three times the heating power of
  ordinary bituminous coal, and is absolutely
  smokeless. The fuel is very expensive, costing
  about £2 per ton, but as one fire will last for
  hours, an anthracite stove will really prove an
  economy in the long run. It has been calculated
  that the average cost for fuel for twelve hours
  continuous biirning will not amount to more
  than l^d. Anthracite stoves are best fitted in
  front of fire-places. Where there is no fire-place,
  it is always necessary that the flue pipe should
  be carried to a chimney.
  
  Heating by Gas. - The open gas fires, consisting
  of jets of flame distributed amongst lumps of
  asbestos and burning in an ordinary grate with
  
  
  An Anthracite Stove.
  
  the chimney just as open as for a coal fire, form
  the healthiest method of heating rooms by gas
  in ordinary dwelhng-houses.
  
  The most careful ventilation of the room is
  
  
  necessary when any means of heating by gas
  is employed. Whenever gas is used as fuel,
  whether in open fires or stoves, trays of water
  should be kept near the fire-place or stove to
  prevent excessive drying of the atmosphere.
  The convenience of gas fixes as labour-saving
  
  
  Boudoir Grate.
  
  devices is undoubted, and for bedrooms especi-
  ally they form an easy and convenient method
  of warming, the fact that they can be turned
  oS as soon as the room is sufficiently warmed
  adding not a Httle to their usefulness. There
  are some people, however, who, although they
  quite appreciate the many good points about
  gas fires, refrain from adopting them from purely
  sentimental motives, the coal fire representing to
  them the essence of homehness and cheeriness.
  Gas stove manufacturers are quite aware of the
  existence of this feeling, and are continually
  inventing new devices calculated to render the
  gas fire as near as possible in appearance to
  the coal fire. In a new gas fire-grate sold by
  Messrs. Davis & Sons, aiid known as the
  " Boudoir Grate," an almost perfect imitation
  of a homely log fire is achieved. In the
  " Boudoir " fire imitation logs are fitted ; and
  the marked resemblance to the effect of the old-
  fashioned wood log fire is so great as to almost
  make the illusion complete. Tliis grate, it is
  interesting to note, was designed by a woman -
  IMiss Helen Eddon, of the Gas Light & Coke
  Company, London.
  
  Electric Radiators. - Wliere electric light is laid
  on in a house the electric radiator stoves make
  very convenient, cleanly, and useful heating
  apparatus. They can be switched on and off
  at will as in the case of electric light. The
  initial cost is small, very good radiators being
  
  
  12
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  procurable for an outlay of 35s. and upwards ;
  but they have the drawback of consuming a
  great amount of current, and for tliis reason,
  unless great care and discrimination aro exer-
  cised in their use, they are apt to prove expensive.
  
  Oil-Stoves. - Where no other method of
  heating is available oil-stoves are very useful,
  but at the same time they have many disad-
  vantages. From the point of \dew of ventilation
  they ai'e not hygienic, as they use up a good
  amount of pure air ; and being neeirly always
  used in rooms which contain no fire-place
  there is no outlet for the fumes which pass into
  the room and \'itiate the atmosphere.
  
  Oil-stoves reqvure constant attention in the
  way of cleaning and trimming; they have a
  tendency to smell unpleasantly, and this ten-
  dency is particularly marked when their care
  in either of the above respects is neglected.
  The prices of these stoves range from three or
  four shillings to two and a half guineas. Very
  useful Uttle stoves may be purchased for an
  outlay of ten to eleven sliillings. The more
  expensive varieties are of course the best. They
  burn a good deal of oil, however, and for this
  reason, if burning constantly, the weekly outlay
  on oil for a stove would represent in many in-
  stances more than the outlay on coal for a fire.
  
  Hot-Water Pipes. - This system of heating is
  mostly restricted to large houses and pubUc
  buildings and institutions. The heat is diffused
  by means of hot water circulated through
  the house by pipes and radiators. The in-
  stalling of a hot-water system amounts to a
  considerable sxmi in the first instance. The
  disadvantage of this heating arrangement Ues
  in the i&ci that it is not easy to regulate the
  temperature, and a stuffy atmosphere is usually
  the result. Very often in large houses a hot-
  water system is installed for heating the hall
  and landings, whilst the rooms are heated with
  fires in the ordinary way. There is no doubt
  that many colds and other similar ills may often
  be attributed to the fact that people are apt to
  overlook the danger of loitering in a cold and
  draughty hall after coming out of a warm room.
  Some method of heating the hall to make it of
  uniform temperature with the rooms is therefore
  highly desirable, and no more efficient method
  than that of a hot- water system could bo devised
  for the purpose.
  
  General Condition of the House. - Before rent-
  ing or purchasing a house, careful investigation
  should be also made into the general condition
  of the premises.
  
  The roofs should be examined by a builder for
  any defect that might give rise to damp and
  other similar ills ; walls, flooring, and ceihngs
  should be looked into for cracks and other im-
  perfections. Care should be taken to find out
  that doors fit well, opening and shutting easily,
  on their hinges ; also that locks are in good
  conditirn. Windows should be examined to see
  
  
  that cords are good, and that they open both
  top and bottom ; also that they are properly
  fitted with bolts, and that the shutters (if any)
  are in working order.
  
  Defects in cliimneys should be looked for;
  these are often indicated by discoloration by
  smoke of the marble of the mantelpieces. The
  kitchen range and boiler should be tested, care
  being taken to find out if a good supply of hot
  water can be ensm-ed. In some houses it is
  only after a regular furnace has been blazing in
  the Icitchen grate for some hours that the water
  begins to show any signs of warmth ; this points
  to some defect in the boiler, and a plumber should
  at once be called in to put matters right.
  
  If the kitchen fire-place is of an obsolete type,
  the landlord should be asked to put in a modern
  range. AH pipes should be attended to and
  put in repair.
  
  Care should be taken to see that the principal
  rooms are fitted with belLs, and if so, whether
  the latter are in good condition. Needless to
  say, the house should be thoroughly clean and
  in every way fit for the occupation of the in-
  coming tenant. The latter must be careful to
  ascertain that this is the case, and also that it
  is not infested by rats, mice, beetles, or other
  vermin of an even more disagreeable kind.
  
  No pains should be spared in attending to all
  these matters, and seeing that attention is paid
  to everytliing that makes for comfort. The
  landlord who wishes to lot a house is a much
  better-tempered and amenable person than the
  landlord who has actually " caught" his tenant.
  Insist on everything being put in order before
  you take over the premises. If matters are
  allowed to slide a great deal of future expense
  will be entailed, more especially where the house
  is taken upon a " repairing " lease. The need
  for caution before making a purchase is none
  the loss imperative, or else the purcheiser will
  find that what with the cost of putting the
  premises into repair in the first instance and the
  amount expended subsequently upon the general
  upkeep of the house, he will have made a very
  bad bargain indeed.
  
  It should bo remembered that, excepting in the
  case of houses let fvu*nished, a landlord is not
  bound in law to put the premises in a state of
  repair or even into a habitable condition before
  the tenantry commences unless he has entered
  into an agreemient to do so with the incoming
  tenant.
  
  HOUSE DECORATION
  
  Once a house has been taken and all the
  necessary cleaning and repairs have been duly
  carried out, the important question of decora-
  tion will have to be entered into.
  
  Many women look upon the selection of wall-
  paper as a tedious task which is best avoided
  where possible, and leave the entire scheme of
  papering and decoration to the discretion of
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  13
  
  
  the landlord, with very often lamentable results.
  True, in some instances, the latter may be a
  man of taste and may take sufficient pride in
  his property to select papers suitable for the
  aspect of the various rooms and the purpose
  for which they are intended. But such a land-
  lord will prove an exception to the general rule.
  The idea wliich ranks paramount in the mind
  of the average landlord is how to save himself
  expense. In these circumstances it may be
  taken for granted that if the selection is left to
  him his choice will be governed by no other
  consideration that that of his pocket.
  
  The policy of leaving the selection of wall-
  papers to a landlord is therefore an altogether
  fallacious one, and should never be adopted.
  If he has arranged to paper and decorate the
  premises for the incoming tenant he will be
  only too pleased for the latter to make his selec-
  tion, provided however that he keeps within
  a certain stipvilated sum. If the tenant wishes
  to obtain papers of a better quality than those
  procurable for the stun allotted, all that he will
  have to do wiU be to make up the difference. A
  landlord will always consent to an arrangement
  of this kind.
  
  It should be ascertained that the walls are
  thoroughly dry and clean before the new paper
  is put on. The practice of pasting a new paper
  over an old one cannot be too highly condemned
  from the point of view of cleanliness and sani-
  tation. Care should also be taken that the
  paper is fixed to the wall with material that
  does not turn sour; bad size used for this
  purpose is particularly noxious. A great deal
  of illness has been traced to the hanging of
  wall-papers with bad paste or size. The walls
  of newly-built houses should not be properly
  papered for six or eight months, as they will
  not be thoroughly dry before that time. A
  temporary papering should be provided during
  this period.
  
  The decorative scheme should be carefully
  considered both in regard to the shape, size,
  light, and aspect of the various rooms, and also
  in regard to the style of furniture which they
  will contain. Rooms that are furnished accord-
  ing to a special period scheme, for instance,
  must bo papered in conformity with the style
  of this period. Wall-papers must always act
  as a suitable background for the furniture of
  a room both in regard to pattern, style, and
  colouring, and tliis fact should never be lost
  sight of in making a choice. Then, again, the
  aspect of a room must influence the choice of
  the colour selected ; what are known as warm
  colours should not be selected for a room with
  a south or south-east aspect, whilst all " cold "
  colours should be avoided in the decoration of .
  rooms facing north or north-east. Yellow and
  red, for instance, are warm coloxors, whilst blue
  is what is known as a cold colour. These tliree
  colours are known as the " primary " colours.
  
  
  Any child who has experimented with a bos
  of paints will know that blue and yellow mixed
  make green, whilst red and blue make purple.
  The secondary colours so made may be either
  warm or cold colours according to the proportion
  in which their primary colours are mixed. In
  green, for instance, if the blue preponderates over
  the yellow the result is a " cold " colour ; but
  many shades of green in which the yellow pre-
  ponderates will result in an almost warm colour,
  the warmth of the original yellow being judi-
  ciously tempered by the admixture of the cold
  colour blue. Certain tones of very pale green
  should always be avoided, because their colour
  is due to an injurious white pigment containing
  arsenic. At an inquest held in London a short
  time ago on the body of a man it was found that
  his death was due to arsenical poisoning from
  the cheap green paper on his bedroom wall.
  Fires in the bedroom had caused the fliiff fiom
  the paper to be distributed over the room, and
  as the man was in a weak state of health the
  poison germs proved fatal.
  
  Just because some greens are dangerous,
  however, it does not follow that green should be
  tabooed in house decoration. It is only the
  cheap pale cold greens which should be shunned.
  Dark green is one of the most useful colo\irs
  that can be selected in room decoration, as
  most other colours tone or contrast well with
  it. Several delicate greens may also be had
  which have no injurious ingredients in their
  composition.
  
  Dadoes and friezes enter largely into the
  scheme of present-day wall-paper decoration,
  but their choice must depend upon the size and
  height of the room. In small low-ceilinged
  rooms dadoes should never be used, as they only
  make small rooms look smaller. In regard to
  friezes, there is a certain difierence of opinion
  amongst furniture experts. Some say that
  they should not be used at all in low small
  rooms, whilst others maintain that an un-
  broken line of wall-paper from floor to ceiling,
  far from adding to the apparent height of a
  low room, only serves to diminish it, whilst if
  the line is broken by means of a narrow frieze,
  the eSect is to make the room more loftj'. It
  may be said as a general rule, however, that the
  striped self-coloured papers are the best to use
  in small low-ceilinged rooms, as the stripes
  tend to give an impression of height. All papers
  with lai'ge patterns should be avoided on the
  walls of small rooms, although, if judiciously
  chosen, when used in large lofty rooms they are
  very eSective. Before choosing a wall-paper it
  is always as well to see it in the piece, and to
  try the effect of a piece held against the wall
  before making the final selection.
  
  One important thing to remember in the
  decoration of rooms is that the vaxious de-
  corations should not match each other in
  monotonous fashion. The colour scheme is
  
  
  14
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  always more effective, for instance, when carpets
  or table coverings or both form a pleasing
  contrast to the wall-papers. Wlaere there is a
  pattern on the wall-paper, let the cvirtains be
  of absolutely plain material ; never repeat tlie
  pattern of a wall-paper in the cliintz of curtains
  or chair coverings.
  
  Ceilings should always be in light tones and
  cornices should harmonise with the ceiling,
  whilst all woodwork, including wall skirting,
  insides of doors, and windows, should be painted
  in a tint to match the principal tones of the
  W£ill-paper - with light delicate papers white
  woodwork is always suitable. In bedroonis,
  the designs of which should be always light
  where possible, light woodwork is also an
  advantage.
  
  On the whole it may be said that the absolutely
  plain papers are those which form the most
  effective background for both pictures and
  furniture, proxnding of course that sviitable
  colourings are chosen. \Vhere a number of
  pictvu-es are to be hung, elaborate designs should
  never be used. Papers with dull svu-faces show
  off good pictures to the best advantage. Picture
  rails OP mouldings from wliich the picttires can be
  hung by means of pictvire-hooks should
  be included in the decoration of all
  the reception rooms. These mouldings
  not only f oma an additional ornament
  to the room, but do away altogether
  with the necessity of adopting the old-
  fashioned method of suspending the
  pictures from large nails in the wall, a
  method which is certainly not conducive to the
  long life of the wall- paper.
  
  Different Kinds of Papers. - Amongst the most
  effective of present-day wall-papers may be
  cltissed the plain silk fibre papers in uniform
  tints. These have a softness of siu-face which is
  peculiarly pleasing and effective. Pretty friezes
  in floral and other designs are sold to match
  these papers.
  
  The most pleasing effects with all plain papers,
  however, are achieved by means of floral borders,
  which are not only utilised as friezes, but are
  carried down the walls at certain intervals to
  form wide panels. These plain papers with
  border effects form the most fashionable de-
  signs at the present moment. The silk fibre
  papers may be had from Is. 6d. per piece, an
  especially good quality being obtainable for
  2s. 6d.
  
  The plain ingrain papers are also very effective ;
  they have a somewhat rougher surface than the
  silk fibre papers, and may be had from Is. 6d.
  per piece.
  
  The moir^ papers have a surface resembling
  the silk after which they are named, and may
  be had from Is. 6d. a piece. They are especially
  effective when thrown into reUef by a pretty
  frieze or border.
  
  Verj' artistic also are the satin stripe papers.
  
  
  These are in uniform colourings consisting of
  satin-like stripes alternating with stripes of a
  duller siu'face. Their effect in pink, blue, and
  all the lighter shades is dainty in the extreme ;
  wliilst carried out in alternate stripes of white
  and silver they make a particularly effective
  drawing-room decoration, especially when used
  as a backgi-ound for seventeenth-century furni-
  ture.
  
  Patterned weJl-papers, where they are pre-
  ferred, can be very effective if judiciously selected,
  but the principle that large and bold designs
  are only suitable for large lofty rooms should
  never be lost sight of. Several very pretty
  designs may be had in the chintz wall-papers.
  Stencilled papers are much more expensive
  than the other varieties. They are very hand-
  some in effect, but on the whole are more suitable
  for the decoration of large public buildings than
  for that of private houses.
  
  The plain saniteiry washable papers are
  especially useful for nursery decoration when
  finished with pretty friezes and borders illus-
  trating nursery rhymes, fairy stories, or re-
  presenting various farmyard animals or any
  other objects calculated to appeal to the
  childish mind.
  
  Tiled walls form an ideal decoration for the
  bath-room, but these are necessarily expensive
  and beyond the reach of the average purse.
  A very good substitute for tiles is to be had in
  the material known as " Emdeca," which con-
  sists of an alloy of tin enamelled and is sold at
  prices ranging from 2s. 4d. the piece (16^x22
  inches) and upwards. This, however, would
  also form a somewhat costly decoration for a
  bath-room when regarded from the point of
  view of only a moderately filled purse, but it can
  be used as a dado, the upper part of the walls
  being painted with " muraline " or some other
  washable preparation. Emdeca is also very
  useful for fixing in sheets at the back of wash-
  stands and sinks, its appearance being very
  cleanly and dainty.
  
  Painting and Distemper. - The usefulness of
  paint in wall decoration must not be over-
  looked, especially when quite plain walls are
  required. It does not show damp or dirt in
  the same degree as plain wall-paper, nor is it
  liable to fade when exposed to tho glare of the
  sun in a room with a sunny aspect.
  
  Of the various preparations for painting
  walls " Ripolin " is one of the most satisfactory.
  The Flat Ripolin has a dull velvety surface
  which is very soft and pleasing in effect. Ripolin
  may be had in any colour. It should be finished
  off where possible with a paper border or frieze,
  and a dado of lincrusta or other material where
  the decoration scheme of the room admits of it.
  
  Sanalene is also an excellent paint for wall
  decoration. Ripolin Gloss and Sanalene Glosa
  are especially good decorations for nui-series,
  bath-rooms, larders, kitchens, &c., as they are
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  15
  
  
  washable. Both Ripolin and Sanalene are also
  very usefiil for painting the woodwork of a
  room. Plain distempered walls can also be
  very effective. Hall's Sanitary Washable Dis-
  temper is one of the best to use. It is easily
  washed when the walls begin to show signs of
  dirt., and proves one of the cheapest and most
  economical wall decorations it is possible to
  have. A pretty paper frieze can be used with
  advantage to finish ofi the decoration of dis-
  tempered walls.
  
  Dadoes, Panelling and Relief Work. - Dadoes
  make a very effective finish to wall decoration,
  being especially suited to rooms with lofty
  walls. The Japanese leather papers sold at
  from 3s. 6d. a yard are often used in dado work.
  Lincrusta is another good material which can
  be had at prices varying from Is. a yard and
  upwards, a very good quality being procurable
  for 3s. or 4s. per yard. The brown lin-
  crusta is much used for dining-room dadoes.
  " Anaglypta " is also a very useful material
  both for dadoes and ceiling relief work. It may
  be had in all designs and quaUties, is. a yard
  representing a good average price for ordinary
  purposes, A pretty dado of white anaglj'pta
  makes a very graceful finish to drawing-room
  walls.
  
  Dadoes should always be finished with orna-
  mental mouldings called dado rails. These
  serve not only to set them off to advantage, but
  also as a protection to the lower part of the
  walls from the knocks of chairs and other
  furniture.
  
  Wood panelling makes a very effective decora-
  tion for dining-room, library, or study where
  the rooms are large and lofty. A panelUng is
  carried much higher up the waUs than a dado,
  a deep frieze being as a rule the only other wall
  decoration required. Oak, mahogany, and cedeur
  panellings give a most handsome effect. The
  cheapest oak panelling is Is. 6d. a foot. Good
  English oak may be had from 2s. 3d. a foot,
  whilst mahogany panelling may be had from
  2s. a foot. Though the initial expense is
  necessarily very great, yet from the point of
  view of wear wood panellings are unequalled.
  They are easy to keep clean, and can be bodily
  removed and fitted in other rooms if desired.
  Wood panelling enamelled or painted white is
  often used in drawing-room decoration. In very
  elaborately decorated period drawing-rooms the
  wood is often carried up the walls in very narrow
  panels, alternating with panels of silk in deHcate
  tints. Such an elaborate scheme of decoration,
  however, would only be suitable in very large
  and luxuriously fvirnished dwellings. Where
  white wood panelling is used in the drawing-
  room of the average household it is only carried
  to the height of a dado. Needless to say, in very
  small rooms panelling of any kind would look
  altogether out of place. (For Chimney-piece
  Decorations, see p. 22.)
  
  
  COLOUR SCHEMES FOR DIFFERENT
  ROOMS
  
  The Dining-Room. - For the decoration of a
  dining-room reds, yellows, buffs, dark greens,
  and r\isset browns are the colours most often
  selected. There is a certain tradition in regard
  to the decoration of a dining-room which dies
  hard. Everything about the room must be
  imposing, hence a rich red is a very favourite
  colour. It is, however, not so fashionable for
  this purpose as of yore, its use being to a certain
  extent superseded by the present vogue for
  papers of buff and russet tints, which are now
  being used extensively in the dining-room decora-
  tion of the most tastefully furnished houses.
  
  The choice of colour must of course be guided
  by the aspect of the room - red, yellow, and the
  warmer shades being the most suitable where
  it has a north-east aspect, whilst cool dark
  greens and mauves are ideal colourings for
  rooms with sunny aspects. Red and green,
  russet and green, and buff, brown and green,
  mauve and grey make admirable dining-room
  colour schemes. For instance, a dining-room
  papered in red might have dark green curtains,
  a dark green table-cover, and an Axminster
  carpet in which dark green is the prevaiUng
  tone, or else one of these many-toned oriental
  carpets, the soft tones of which combine so well
  with almost any scheme of colouring ; russet-
  colo\ired walls would look well with green cur-
  tains, green table-cloth, and a warm red carpet-
  square over a dark parquet or polished wood
  flooring.
  
  A plain pattemless bufi paper thrown into
  relief by a rich brown dado woiild make an ex-
  ceptionally handsome background for mahogany
  furniture and pictures in dark brown frames,
  whilst walls papered in soft mauve with a frieze
  of silver grey, mauve curtains, a tapestry
  carpet-square with a subdued pattern on a
  grey ground, and a tapestry table-cover to
  tone with the carpet, would set off a dining-
  room suite of oak in Queen Anne style.
  
  The Drawing-Room. - The drawing-room is
  the room of aU others which lends itself to Ught
  and dehcate treatment. The general effects of
  the decorative scheme should be one of bright-
  ness and cheerfulness, and, above all, of refine-
  ment. Dehcate mauves, soft greens, turquoise
  blues, white, pinks, are all suitable colours for
  wall decoration. The aspect of the room must
  of course be considered. Warm soft pinks and
  yellows are best for rooms facing north-east,
  whilst soft cool greys, blues and greens form
  ideal colourings for rooms with sunny aspects.
  Wlnte is particularly suitable in small rooms,
  as it gives an impression of greater space. As
  a background for Adam's or Empire furniture
  it is especially effective. Pretty striped papers
  in hght colours with floral friezes go well with
  Hepplewhite furniture.
  
  
  16
  
  
  THE WOJyiAN'S BOOK
  
  
  A drawing-room papered or painted in white
  would look well with a frieze or floral border of
  a pretty shade of blue green with a carpet and
  curtains in the same colouring. The entire
  woodwork of the room, including mantelpiece,
  overmantel, and dado (if anj') would also be
  white.
  
  A drawing-room with a north-east eispect
  would look well with a pink satin stripe paper
  in a soft tone, an art green pile carpet, and
  curtains of the same shade of green.
  
  Soft grey wall-paper with a rose-coloured
  floral frieze, rose curtains, and rose and grey in
  the colour of the carpet would make another
  effective colour scheme.
  
  Notliing could bo calculated to set o2 drawing-
  room furniture to better advantage than a
  light well-pohshed parquet flooring adorned here
  and there by one or two choice oriental rugs.
  The cost is, however, prohibitive to those who
  are not superabundantly supplied with this
  world's riches.
  
  Many people who have carpet-squares or rugs
  as floor coverings in all the other rooms of the
  house prefer a fitted carpet in the drawing-
  room. Where square carpets are used " par-
  quet " makes the best surround, but this is
  necessarily expensive. Failing parquet a good
  floor stain should be applied to the surround.
  Many good stains are sold to imitate oak, dark
  oak, hght oak, walnut, rosewood, satinwood,
  and other woods. Both parquet and stained
  floorings require to be kept weU polished
  (see p. 66).
  
  The Library. - The hbrary should be painted
  or papered in sober colours such as brown,
  red, tan, and dark green, in keeping with the
  dignity of the room. To paper a library in
  the pale eu-t shades of blue or green would
  be to go against every law of what is fitting
  and proper. A good soft Turkey carpet
  forms a favourite floor covering for this
  room. The shades of Turkey and other oriental
  carpets are so skilfully interwoven that they
  will tone with almost any colour. Brown walls
  and a deep red carpet and curtains are very
  effective. All the wood should be in brown.
  Oak and other wood panelUngs are largely used
  for wall decoration in the libraries of the rich.
  They have a very handsome and imposing
  effect. Dadoes in dark shades of anaglypta
  or hncrusta are very suitable. Red is a
  favourite colour in library decoration. Walls
  papered in red with brown woodwork, a carpet
  in deep tones of green and red, and curtains
  to match makes a very effective background.
  
  Breakfast-Room. - The colour treatment of a
  breakfast-room will, of course, depend upon its
  aspect. In well -planned houses it usually has
  a siinny position. A paper with an unobtrusive
  rose floral pattern on a white ground would tone
  well with an art blue carpet-square. A plain
  blue paper with white woodwork, pretty chintz
  
  
  or cretonne curtains with a pink floral pattern
  on a wliite ground, a pretty cord carpet with a
  rose pattern on a fawn ground would also be
  very suitable.
  
  Bedrooms. - The bedroom papers should be
  bright and cheerful-looldng ; never heavy, and,
  above aU, intricate designs should bo avoided.
  Those are apt to be particularly irritating to an
  invaUd who is forced to spend a number of days
  in bod, and worrying over the intricacies of a
  wall-paper can at times have an ahnost madden-
  ing effect upon a person so situated. As illness
  is a factor which will have to be reckoned with
  in almost every household, let the bedroom
  paper be bright yet restful in design { in fact,
  noticing can be better than an absolutely plain
  wall-paper. Washable distemper also forms
  an admirable decoration, and can be had
  in all the best and most artistic shades.
  Distempered walls, however, should always
  be finished off with a pretty frieze. A plain
  white paper or distemper, with a pretty floral
  border of roses to form a panelled effect, would
  go well with a green art square carpet, rose
  curtains, and ivory-white woodwork : soft blue
  paper would tone well with a pretty tapestry
  carpet with a rose design on a fawn ground,
  whilst pretty white and rose chintz curtains
  would complete the colour scheme. White
  papers with pretty floral friezes and borders to
  tone with the rest of the decorative scheme form
  the most characteristic feature of present-day
  bedroom decoration ; a plain white paper with
  a very deep wisteria frieze is especially effective
  and would look well with a mauve carpet and
  mauve curtains.
  
  The Hall. - ^It is a mistake to think that
  gloomy colouring is essential to the decoration
  of a hall - so much depends upon whether it is
  a bright hall or a dark one. Plain papers or
  distemper are as a rule the best to use unless the
  hall is a very lofty one. Warm shades of red and
  terra-ootta are very suitable, or green where the
  hall is a particularly bright one. White dadoes,
  friezes, and woodwork will go a long way towards
  brightening up a dark hall. Very deep friezes
  can be losed with good effect. A rich pile caxpet
  to tone with the stair carpet and laid over lino-
  leum is a very effective floor covering. Wh en the
  hall is separated from the outer door by a small
  vestibule, the door of tho latter should be Jraped
  with curtains to tone with the rest of the
  colour scheme. Wlicre hnoleum is used as floor
  covering it should be of a simple pai-quetry
  pattern. Any vakicd trophies, such as swords,
  other armour, fox brushes, &c., &c., form most
  suitable decorations for the walls of a hall.
  
  FURNISHING THE HOME
  
  The choice of furniture for the home should
  not be undertaken lightly. It is a matter which
  calls for the exercise of much discrimination
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  17
  
  
  and forethought, careful consideration of ways
  and means, and, above all, much ingenuity in
  cutting one's coat according to one's cloth, and at
  the same time getting the best possible value for
  money expended.
  
  The requirements of the different rooms in
  the house should first be carefully studied, and
  a list made out of every piece of furniture
  necessary for each separate room, including
  carpet, fire-irons, window-curtains, curtain rods,
  blinds, &c.
  
  It may take some time to make out a thor-
  oughly comprehensive list, but it will prove to
  be time well expended. To go to a furniture
  shop with only a vague idea of the general wants
  of the different rooms is to court disaster at the
  outset. Money which should have been ex-
  pended upon essentials goes to purchase articles
  which may be ornamental, it is true, but which
  are totally unnecessary for use, whilst the im-
  portant essentials that make for comfort are
  either overlooked, or else remembered too late.
  
  It is most important, therefore, to set about
  buying furniture in a business-like way. Lack of
  method in buying will inevitably result in chaos,
  and the shopping for the home, instead of being
  a pleasure, as it should be if undertaken in the
  proper spirit, will prove a positive ordeal for
  the unfortunate shoppers.
  
  Many people who have only a very small sum
  to spend upon furnitxire make the mistake of
  taking little interest in their shopping, resigning
  themselves to the purchase of anything, no matter
  how ugly, so long as it is cheap. Never was
  there a greater fallacy. Good taste should be
  the guiding spirit in the furnishing of the home,
  and good taste goes a great deal further than
  mere money in this respect. Tlie most beautiful
  homes are not necessarily those which have been
  furnished without any regard to cost ; rather are
  they those upon which care and trouble have
  been expended in making a judicious and taste-
  ful selection.
  
  A woman of refinement and taste will make a
  room in which the furnitiire largely consists of
  the results of her own handiwork and skiU look
  better and much more desirable than the room
  of the woman with unlimited wealth at her
  command, who does not possess the necessary
  taste to guide her in steering clear of mere
  vulgar display. Money is a most important
  factor in the furnishing of a home, it is true,
  but a very little money can be made to go a long
  way if only a httle trouble and care are exercised
  in the spending of it. A great deal, of course,
  will depend upon the resourcefulness of the
  young couple. Some men, for instance, have a
  taste for carpentering and carving, then how
  can this taste be more satisfactorily employed
  than in the furnishing of the home ? Pretty
  shelves and book-cases and even tables can be
  made in this way at a very trifling cost. Ordinary
  orange or soap boxes can be turned into wall
  
  
  brackets, boot cupboards, and even book-cases.
  Cosy window-seats and pretty ottomans can be
  turned out by the home upholsterer and car-
  penter at a trifling cost. It is wonderful what
  can be done with a few yards of chintz and a
  Uberal supply of enamel. Dainty hangings for
  impromptu curtain cupboards, wall draperies
  to hide ugly corners, cushions and window-
  curtains can be fashioned from the chintz by
  deft and skiJful fingers, whilst ordinary deal
  tables and shelves may be converted into very
  dainty pieces of furniture indeed by means of
  a good coating of enamel well applied. As a
  general rule, the homes which require the
  exercise of so much care, ingenuity, and abiUty
  to make a sura of money go a long way in the
  furnishing are those that give the most real
  satisfaction to their occupants, and what
  greater pleastire can there be than in the realisa-
  tion of the fact that the httle pinchings and
  contrivings have brought their reward. The
  young wife who hears a friend congratulate
  her on the appearance of a pretty rug which
  she has fashioned from a piece of carpet bought
  as a traveller's sample for a few sliillings at
  a furniture shop, will experience a much more
  genuine thrill of pleasure than will her richer
  sister who is complimented upon any article of
  furniture upon the purchase of which she has
  not expended a single thought.
  
  It should be every woman's aim, therefore,
  however small a sum she may have to invest
  on the purchase of fxirniture, to see that it is
  expended to the best advantage, both from the
  point of view of taste and also from that of
  suitabihty and wear. Do not aim at handsome
  effects which cannot be achieved with the
  small sum at your command; cheap imitations
  should also be shunned. Let what you have be
  good of its kind. It is better to buy one or two
  really good pieces of simple and unpretentious
  fixrniture and add to them by degrees, than to
  buy a quantity of cheap imitation which will
  be shabby in a year.
  
  A good deal of furniture is sold upon the hire
  system nowadays ; that is to say, that, after the
  payment of a certain stipulated small sum as a
  deposit by the purchaser the furnitiu?e is de-
  livered at his premises, and is paid for in monthly
  instalments until the pm-chase is complete.
  When a hire contract is entered into with a
  good and reliable firm the transaction often
  proves satisfactory, and for people who have
  not the command of a sum of ready money,
  however small, with which to buy their furni-
  ture it is a most convenient method, but
  in many other respects the liire system is
  open to objection. To begin with, it will mean
  a great strain upon the income of the young
  husband during the years in which he is fii'st
  beginning to reahse his added responsibihties,
  a strain which is apt to become a veritable
  burden in the case of those ups and downs of
  
  
  18
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  fortune to which every one more or less is
  liable. Should any reverse of fortune occur
  owing to which for a time he is obliged to sus-
  pend his payments, he is confronted with the
  probability of ha\'ing the furnitvire taken away,
  even though he should have paid off all but the
  leist few instalments. Again, when a person
  heis a fixed sum to spend, he knows he must
  keep within its Mmits, whereas when it is a
  question of payment by degrees he often ends
  by buying more than he can tifford. As a
  matter of principle, therefore, from the point
  of view of the young couple who axe just
  starting upon the management of a home, the
  hire system has much in its disfavour, and,
  how3ver small the sum available, it is better
  to paj' outright for the furniture, beginning
  married life clear of the money responsibiUties
  which would be otherwise involved. One can
  always begin in a small way, launching out
  fiu-ther as the savings accumulate or the income
  increases.
  
  A small flat with two bedrooms, a sitting-room,
  bath-room, and a kitchen can be very well
  fiimished for £50, and much less than that if the
  young couple are adept at contriving in the way
  already described.
  
  Young engaged couples who have to set about
  choosing furniture for their new home would do
  well to get some assistance in drawing up a
  list of their requirements. Knowledge of the
  ins and outs of furnishing is best attained by
  experience, and for this reason the bride's
  mother will often be able to make many useful
  suggestions.
  
  Having made out their list it must next be
  their aim to divide up the sum to be spent
  upon the various rooms in suitable proportions.
  For this they will have to acquire some know-
  ledge of the prices of the various articles, and
  for information in regard to this point they
  cannot do better than send for the catalogues
  of one or two of the best furnishing firms.
  Furniture catalogues in these enlightened days
  are not only true objects of art in regard to
  illustrations, but they usually contain all
  possible information in regard to the question
  of furniture, which makes it exceptionally easy
  for the buyer to make a suitable selection.
  Comprehensive lists axe drawn up containing
  details in regard to each article necessary in
  furnishing the home from the table in the dining-
  room to the saucepans in the kitchen, and all
  the prices are marked in plain figures.
  
  In ewldition, people are advised as to how to
  spend certain sums of money on their furniture
  to the best advantage. Nearly every furniture
  list contains schemes for furnishing flats and
  houses for sruns varying from £50 to £500 and
  upwards. These schemes are drawn up especi-
  ally for the use of people of average means who
  have a certain sum to spend and must keep
  ■within its limits.
  
  
  Furthermore, all the large firms show model
  houses on their premises completely furnished
  in accordance with the details in their cata-
  logues. A visit to any of these model houses is
  an education in itself, and nothing is calculated
  to be of greater assistance in giving reUable
  guidance to the shopper as to how her money
  may be spent. The model dwellings are com-
  pletely furnished in every detail, and in each
  room a list is usually hung up in some promi-
  nent position giving full particulars in regard
  to every piece of furniture necessary with the
  price of each separate article. The decorative
  scheme is complete, including fire-place and
  fire-irons, window drapery, curtains and wall
  paper, though the estimate in most cases does
  not include the latter. A careful study of
  these rooms both in regard to the colour
  scheme and also to the arrangement of their
  actual contents cannot fail to be a useful guide
  to any purchaser as to her requirements.
  
  Not only one but three or four furniture show-
  rooms should be visited. The shopper can have
  no better opportunity of studying really practi-
  cal furniture schemes, and even though she
  cannot afford to purchase furniture of the kind
  so displayed, she will gain many helpful ideas
  in planning out her own httle furniture scheme
  according to the limitations of her purse. (See
  Maples' Ninety Guinea Flat, p. 35.)
  
  FLOORING AND FLOOR COVERINGS
  
  Parquetry. - It should be ascertained that
  the floors are well levelled, smooth, and free from
  cracks and holes before laying down carpets.
  Plasticity and elasticity are very necessary
  attributes to all good flooring. It should also
  have a good surface capable of easy polish.
  Particularly where the floor, or at any rate the
  borders of the floors, axe stained and poUshed
  is the last quality necessary. Parquetry is the
  ideal flooring for hall and reception rooms, but
  its cost is very great, and for this reason it is a
  luxury to be enjoyed only by the favoured few.
  The cost of laying parquetry flooring in a
  moderately sized square hall of the kind so often
  seen in modern houses and flats might in many
  instances be met by economies practised in the
  general fvirnishing of the rooms. The first
  impressions gained of the interior of the house
  upon entering the hall goes a long way to help
  the visitor to form an opinion of the whole,
  and for this reason the question of hall decora-
  tion should never be relegated to the back-
  ground when the decorative scheme is planned.
  
  Where paxquetry is used for the entire flooring
  it should be of the best. The thin makes are,
  however, quite effective as surrounds for
  central carpets. They can be purchased at
  prices ranging from 3d. per foot and upwards.
  
  Carpets. - Tlie choice of carpets for a house
  must first of all depend upon the sum of money
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  19
  
  
  to be allotted to their purchase. This should
  not amoiuit to more than one-sixth of the sum
  allowed for furnishing. Where a house or flat
  has to be furnished for £90 to £100, for instance,
  not more than £15 should be spent on carpets,
  whereas out of a sum of £200 for furniture,
  the outlay on carpets should not be more than
  £30.
  
  It requires the exercise of no little forethought
  to make a small sum of money go a long way
  in the purchase of floor coverings. First and
  foremost cheap showy carpets should be avoided.
  One cannot expect good wear out of a very cheap
  carpet. It will very soon become faded and
  shabby looking, and nothing tends more to spoil
  the appearance of a room than a shabby carpet.
  For those with hmited purses there can be no
  more economical and, at the same time, more
  diirable floor coverings than plain felts and
  linoleums.
  
  Felts are now largely used as entire fitted
  floor carpets. They wear much better, and are
  much more eflPective in every way than the
  cheaper varieties of carpets, for whereas the
  latter are very seldom obtainable in really
  good colourings, the plain felts are to be had in
  all the best art shades and are most soft and
  harmonious in effect. They lend themselves
  admirably to the soft subdued colour schemes
  now so greatly in vogue, and act as a very
  effective background to furniture. When felt
  is used as a floor covering there should always
  be in addition one or two pretty rugs scattered
  here and there about the room. Felt is also
  largely used as a surround for a square carpet,
  many people preferring it to Hnoleum owing to
  the fact that it gives the room an appearance of
  greater warmth in winter. Oriental rugs show
  up especially well upon a plain felt carpet.
  Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster rugs are
  also very effective. Many a bargain in rugs
  may be picked up at the annual sales of
  any large furniture establishment. In many
  cases the large furnishing firms and carpet
  manufactxirers sell what axe known as
  " traveller's samples " of carpet. These run at
  times into lengths of a j'ard and over. They
  only require to be finished off with a little gallon,
  and very pretty and handsome rugs are thus
  made at the cost of a few shillings. Pieces of
  the very best Brussels, Axminster, and other
  well-known makes may be had in this way,
  and when the buyer is able to make a good
  selection, she will find that she has a much
  better rug than it would have been possible for
  her to procvire when buying in the ordinary
  way.
  
  Carpets wear much longer if an underlay is
  provided to keep them from direct contact with
  the floor. Plain grey felt is admirable for the
  purpose, and serves not only to preserve the
  carpet, but also to make it softer to the tread.
  A good underfelt may be had from Is. to
  
  
  Is. 4^d. per yard running from 46 to 54 inches
  in width. Bro-wn paper also makes a very good
  underlay, and may be purchased for 2d. a yard.
  What is known as felt paper is also suitable and
  costs 3d. per yard. A species of coarse canvas
  is also used for putting under carpet and may be
  purcheised for 4^d. a yard.
  
  Art square carpets as a rule do not require
  fastening to the floor, as the heavy
  furniture of a room would keep them
  in place. Heavy rich pile carpets, how-
  ever, require to be fastened here and
  there. The most handy fastening for a
  square carpet consists of a patent brass
  nail which fixes into a groove of the
  same metaL The groove is screwed into
  the floor, a hole being drilled into the
  latter to receive it. The carpet can
  thus be lifted when necessary with very Patent
  little trouble, the nails coming easily out Carpet
  of the grooves when it is pulled gently
  upwards (see illustration).
  
  Measuring Rooms for Carpets. - Most carpet
  manufacturers send representatives to take the
  measurements of their customers' rooms for
  carpets, but long distances and various other
  circumstances sometimes make it impossible
  
  
  BAY WINDOW
  
  
  Plan showing Method of Measuring Room
  for Carpet.
  
  for them to do so. The diagram here given
  shows how a room should be measured
  for carpet and surround. When ordering
  carpets a similar plan should be sent showing
  position of windows, doors, and fire-place, and
  giving the measurements in feet and inches.
  The dimensions should be accurately taken,
  though the plan need not be drawn to scale ;
  carpets of any kind can be made up from such a
  drawing.
  
  
  20
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Different Kinds of Carpets. - For good wear,
  artistic coloviring, and handsome appearance
  generally the various oriental carpets are un-
  equalled. Tliey are hand-made and the design
  and colouring ai'e so skilfully interwoven that
  they will be found to tone well with almost any
  colour scheme. Skill in designing is almost a
  tradition with the peasants of the East, for the
  various designs are handed down from father
  to son, and are woven from memory, the keen
  eye for designing and colouring being thus an
  hereditary gift.
  
  The carpets are sold in the eastern bazaars.
  Jlost large carpet -dealers in Europe have agents
  in the various well-known centres of the carpet
  industry who are entrusted with the purchase
  of carpets on behalf of their firm. Turkey
  carpets are very rich and handsome in appear-
  ance. Tlioy are favourite carpets for the dining-
  room, library, or study. The Anatolian Tvirkey
  carpets are particularly noted for their delicate
  colourings, especially in the lighter shades
  suitable for drawing-room carpets. Persian
  carpets have a particularly viaried range of
  colouring from the handsome rich tints suitable
  for dining-room and study, to the soft delicate
  tints for drawing-room use. They are also
  durable, being very close in texture. Indian
  carpets are lower in quality and consequently
  less expensive than most other oriental carpets.
  The patterns are worked on various light
  grounds for drawing-room wear and also
  darker grounds suitable for dining-room and
  library. The cheapest varieties should not be
  chosen as they do not wear well. The better
  qualities are, however, very satisfactory, as the
  pile of these is close and deep and the colouring
  light and harmonious.
  
  Brussels Carpets seem to retain a perennial
  hold upon the public favour. They make very
  beautiful and durable floor coverings, but a
  fair price should always be paid for them. In-
  crease of competition in the carpet trade has
  induced many manufacturers to place very
  cheap carpets upon the market, advertising
  them as " Best Brussels " and quoting very low
  prices for them. It is impossible to obtain a
  good " Brussels " at a low price ; 4s. 9d. a yard
  represents a good average figure for best
  Brussels carpets, and as a general rule not loss
  than 33. 9d. a yard should be paid if a really
  good quality carpet is desired. The pattern
  of a Brussels carpet always shows through on
  the wrong side. The carpets are made by
  •weaving thread through a canvas over wires,
  the latter being withdrawn after the carpet ia
  woven, leaving the loops which form the pile of
  the carpet. A good quality Brussels carpet
  can always be judged by the length of the loops
  or pile. These carpets may bo bought by the
  yard or in seamless woven squares.
  
  Axmlnster. - The real hand-made Axminster
  carpoi3 make luxurious and therefore costly
  
  
  floor coverings. Tliey take their name from
  the town of Axminster in Devonshire where
  they were first made. They have a rich deep
  pile and are woven in the most beautiful designs
  and colourings. More within the reach of the
  average purse are the machine-made Axminster
  Pile Carpets. These are to bo had in many
  qualities and in a great variety of colourings -
  in light tones sxiitablo for di'awing-room use,
  and in the deeper colourings suitable for dining-
  room and library, and may be pm-chased for
  from 4s. 6d. per yard. Tlie patent Axminster
  and the Crompton Axminster are the best of
  the maoliine-made varieties.
  
  Wilton Carpets. - The Wilton carpets are
  noted for theu* soft appearance and plush-like
  surface. Tliey are closer in texture, though
  shorter in pile than the Axminster carpets.
  They are made in a very similar manner to
  Brussels carpets with the exception that the
  wires are not taken away until the loops are
  cut. They are made in a variety of designs
  and colourings, the design in self colours being
  especially beautiful. Wilton carpets may be
  purchased by the yard or in seamless woven
  squares.
  
  Kidderminster Carpets. - These are reversible
  carpets without pile. They are mostly suitable
  for bedrooms. It is never advisable, however,
  to use them as fitted carpets, as the dirt gets
  very quickly through the carpet to the floor,
  remaining there in thick layers if the carpet is
  not frequently lifted. Kidderminster squares,
  with linoleum surrounds, are the best to use.
  
  Seamless Edderminster squares are now sold
  under a great many different names, each
  manufacturer having his own name for his
  special make of carpet. The carpets known as
  " Roman Squares " are well-known varieties of
  the Kidderminsters, as also are the Cheviot and
  Shetland squares.
  
  Tapestry Carpets are not unlike Brussels in
  appearance, but the pattern does not show
  through on the wrong side. They are inex-
  pensive, and may be had in many pretty designs,
  but are not suitable for hard wear.
  
  Velvet Pile Carpets. - Many varieties of velvet
  pile carpets are manufactured in imitation of
  Wilton carpets. They are inexpensive, but un-
  suitable for hard wear.
  
  Stair Carpets. - Stair carpets reqviire to be
  very carefully laid over undorfelt or stair-pads.
  A sufficient quantity should be bought to
  ensure an extra half yard for each flight of
  stairs. This will allow for a periodical shifting
  of the carpets at the treads about four times
  a year so that the Wear is evenly distributed,
  the extra half yard being always kept neatly
  folded under the last tread of each flight or
  under the carpet on the landing. The carpets
  will be found to wear much longer if this simple
  precaution is taken.
  
  It is always advisable if a saving can bo
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  21
  
  
  effected elsewhere to spend a little more money
  on stair carpets and to have them of as good
  a quality as possible. They are subjected to an
  enormous amount of wear and tear, and the
  very cheap kinds will soon become shabby
  looking. , Good pile carpets are the best for
  wear, Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster stair
  carpets being very effective. Tapestry carpets
  are also smtable and may be had at moderate
  prices.
  
  Plain felt in one of the art shades makes a
  very effective and economical stair covering
  especia^y suitable for a house furnished in soft
  subdued tones.
  
  Those to whom an inexpensive carpet is a
  sine qud non cannot do better than try the
  cord stair carpets sold by the Abingdon Carpet
  Co., of Thames WTiarf, Abingdon, which are
  both cheap and durable.
  
  Stair Rods for keeping the carpet in place on
  each tread are indispensable to the staircase
  eqtiipment. They are usually of brass and fit
  
  
  ^^
  
  
  Stair Eod aud Eyelets.
  
  into specially made eyelets. The thin round
  rods are the least expensive ; the price varies
  wth the degree of their thickness. The flat
  sexagonal brass rods are the most handsome,
  and add not a little to the appearance of a well-
  carpeted staircase.
  
  LINOLEUMS
  
  The inlaid linoleums are the best, as their
  colourings and designs are so worked into the
  materials that they cannot wear off or be
  obUterated. One of the best of the inlaid
  linoleums is that known as " Greenwich
  Linoleum." " Duroleum " is also very good
  and durable.
  
  The entire hall can be covered to advantage
  with Greenwich hnoleum or duroleum. The
  pattern should be very judiciously selected.
  Needless to say, floral patterns are quite out of
  place, the most suitable being the simple geo-
  metrical patterns in imitation of tiles or par-
  quetry. Linoleum requires to be very care-
  fully laid and should be pasted to the floor
  with the edges of each breadth fastened by a
  few headless brads.
  
  In many houses linoleum is largely used instead
  
  
  of carpets in all the bedrooms. It is certainly
  the most hygienic floor covering for a bedroom,
  as it does not accumulate dust and can be easily
  swept and washed, and it is at the same time
  the least expensive. In bedrooms carpeted with
  Hnoleum rugs are usually placed at either side
  of the bed and in front of the toilet table.
  Twelve square yeirds will be required to carpet
  a room 12 feet by 9 feet. The outlay will
  therefore be most moderate, and to those with
  inelastic purses this is a very important con-
  sideration.
  
  Linoleum is also a suitable floor covering for
  bath-rooms and niurseries. Cork carpet is also
  largely used for these rooms. It has the ad-
  vantage of being noiseless to the tread, and in
  the opinion of many has a wairmer appearance
  than hnoleima. It may be had at 2s. 2d. per
  yard, the shades in dark green and dark blue
  being particularly effective.
  
  CURTAINS AND BUNDS
  
  The decorative effect of a room can be made
  or marred by the selection of its ciurtains in
  regard to material, colour, and suitabihty to
  the various rooms in which they are placed.
  
  In dining-room and Ubrary, for instance.
  
  
  Portiere CurtainB.
  
  there shovdd always be curtains of tapestry,
  chenille, velvet, serge, or other similar materials.
  In the drawing-room curtains of dainty materials
  such as lace or silk and the various art linens
  
  
  22
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  are most appropriate, whilst light chintz,
  cretonne, lace, musUn, and all other Ught
  ■washable curtains are suitable for the bedrooms.
  The cornice poles from which the curtains
  are to be hung must also be suitably chosen.
  These will form an item in the general cost of
  window decoration which should not be over-
  looked. Ninepence per foot represents an
  average price for a brass pole one inch in
  diameter. For brass poles three inches in
  diameter 3s. 3d. per foot would represent a fair
  price. White enamelled cornice poles are
  suitable for drawing-room and other brightlj'
  furnished rooms and are cheaper than the
  brass ones. Mahogany poles three inches in
  diameter suitable for dining-room and study
  maj' be had for Is. per foot. For bay windows
  
  
  Casement Curtains.
  
  the prices are higher. Rings to match these
  poles are sold at prices also varying with their
  sizes.
  
  Portiere curtains are often hung over doors,
  both for decorative purposes and the exclusion
  of draughts. They should bo of materials such
  as chenille, velvet, silk, or serge, and should be
  hung by means of rings to a rod across which
  they can easily be drawn backwards and for-
  wards. Where there are curtain cupboards in
  the bedrooms, the hangings should always be of
  cretonne, linen, or other firm washable material
  substantial enough to keep out the dust.
  
  Casement Curtains, are now largely used
  instead of the ordinary roller blind, so casement
  blinds would be tlio more correct name to give
  them. They present a very pretty and decora-
  tive appearance and look best with casement
  windows, but can also bo used with sash windows.
  In th" latter case there must always be separate
  
  
  bUnds for both upper and lower sash. The
  casement cuilains (or bUnds) only reach to the
  window sills, and the ordinary side curtains
  are used with them. Cretonne, cliintz, case-
  ment cloths, silk and Bolton sheeting are the
  best materials for these blinds. The selection of
  both material and coloiu* will of course depend
  upon the decoration aiid upholstery of the room
  in which they are used.
  
  Arrangement of Curtains. - Much may be done
  to improve an ugly-looking window by the
  manner in which the curtains are arranged.
  A very narrow straight window may be made
  to look wider by extending the cornice pole a
  few inches beyond the window on each side.
  From this the curtains should hang straight
  without being looped up in any way. When
  two or three very narrow little windows come
  close to each other a top valance can be made
  to include them as one wide window. From
  either side should hang ciirtains of the same
  material as the valance, whilst lace casement
  curtains hung over the divisions of the other
  windows would serve to complete the one
  window illusion, giving a pretty casement effect
  to the whole. The casement window lends
  itself more readily than any other to decorative
  treatment. Special fabrics are sold by all
  fiu"niture dealers for this favourite type of
  window. In this connection it is interesting
  to note the great revival in old-fashioned
  fabrics including the actual repetition of the
  patterns of the quaint chintzes and printed
  hnens which were in vogue dviring the seven-
  teenth and eighteenth centuries.
  
  The alcoved casement window is always the
  most effective. Pretty casement curtains in
  two tiers can adorn the windows, whilst the
  broad recess may be occupied by a quaint old-
  world window-seat of the same material as the
  cm-tains and valance by which the alcove
  is enclosed.
  
  Blinds. - Venetian blinds, if of good qualitj',
  are always suitable and useful as tlie laths can
  be easily cleaned. Their use has to a great
  extent been superseded however by the more
  ornamental linen or holland blinds trimmed
  with lace edging and insertion and working on
  spring rollers. Very good quality blinds may
  be had for eight or nine shillings each, the cost
  of the roller depending upon the particular
  patent used. Inexpensive linen blinds suitable
  for bedrooms may be had for about four shillings.
  With most firms the prices quoted for the blinds
  include both the measuring and fitting. Blind
  materials are also sold by the yard for people
  who prefer to make and fix their blinds them-
  selves. Furniture firms usually send pattern
  books of these materials when applied for, giving
  the price per yard and also the price of the whole
  blinds including making and fixing.
  
  Mantelpiece Decoration. - The decoration of
  the mantelpiece and its surroundings must con-
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  23
  
  
  form with the general decorative scheme of the
  room. Period furnishing reqxiires that the
  cliimney-piece decoration should have a special
  treatment, and its decoration should therefore
  be placed in the hands of the firm which is
  supplying the rest of the fiirniture.
  
  The ugly gilt-edged mirror which formed the
  conventional chimney-piece decoration of the
  time of our grandmothers is now mercifully
  buried in obli\don. Artistic wooden chimney-
  pieces and overmantles combined now form part
  of the decorative equipment of most tastefully
  furnished hoiises. These are constructed of
  mahogany and oak or in other dark woodwork
  for dining-room and library, and in wood
  painted white for drawing-room and morning-
  room. The mantelpieces of bedrooms do not
  require the elaborate treatment given to those
  
  
  Illustration showing Artistic Chimney-piece
  and Club Curb.
  
  of the reception rooms. Either a picture or
  a small overmantle may be placed over the
  chimney-piece of the latter, and where the
  woodwork is carried up over the mantelpiece
  it is only carried up to a very small height.
  
  Where there ai'e no fitted overmantles in
  connection with the chimney-pieces of the
  reception rooms the latter must be bought
  separately. Very pretty overmantles may be
  purchased in oak, walnut, mahogany, and wood
  painted white.
  
  Mantelpiece drapery is seldom seen now, but
  at times it is absolutely necessary to hide an
  ugly chimney-piece. In these circumstances
  the material used should be as light and graceful
  in appearance as possible. Pretty liberty silks
  and satins in the delicate art shades make most
  effective draperies.
  
  Tiled hearths and marble fenders are much
  favoured in present-day house decoration.
  Brass and steel fenders should always be kept
  
  
  Fire-irons.
  
  
  well polished. A very ornamental type of
  fender is that known as the " Club Curb." This
  consists of plain brass or iron rails which reach,
  at times to a height of two feet and
  which are surmounted by an uphol-
  stered seat, usually of morocco.
  Sometimes the upholstery goes all
  round the top of the curb, but more
  usually the seats are only at the sides
  and corners. A pair of fire-dogs
  and the necessary fire-irons, i.e.
  shovel, poker, and tongs, should
  form part of the equipment of the
  fire-place. Very useful for morning-
  room, study, and bedrooms are the
  little combination set of fia-e-irons
  now sold, which fit on to a speci-
  ally constructed stand. These are
  inexpensive to buy and look very
  well. As the stand is of a good
  height the fire-irons can easily be taken from it
  without having to stoop as in the case of thљ
  ordinary fire-dogs.
  
  FURNISHING THE VARIOUS ROOMS
  
  The Dra wing-Room. - This is essentially the
  domain of the house mistress, and it is stamped
  as it Were with her own individuality. The
  woman of refinement and taste makes her
  personahty felt not only in the general furniture
  scheme of the room, but in the many dainty
  Uttle finishing touches without which there
  always seems to be something lacking in even
  the best furnished drawing-rooms. This some-
  thing is invariably absent from the drawing-
  room of the wealthy uncultured woman, who,
  though she may have had the good sense to
  give carte blanche to a reUable furniture dealer
  in regard to the choice of furniture, yet fails
  utterly in imparting that atmosphere of refine-
  ment conveyed by the subtle touch in the arrange-
  ment of details which is always characteristic
  of the drawing-room of the gentlewoman, how-
  ever poorly furnished it may be.
  
  All stiffness and awkwardmess of arrangement
  in drawing-room furniture should be avoided.
  There should be an air of daintiness and grace
  and at the same time of cosiness about the
  room. The drawing-room of to-day is not a
  room for show but a room for use. It is no
  longer thrown open on strictly state occasions,
  nor are children nowadays trained to look upon
  it as a sort of Bluebeard's chamber only to be
  entered upon occasions when both Sunday frocks
  and Sunday manners must be domied and the
  maxim " Little children may be seen, but not
  heard," most rigorously observed. Tliere are
  still some middle-clfiss people who keep their
  drawing-room as a show-room, only using it on
  " At Home " days and for other similar functions ;
  but such rooms always wear an air of stiffness
  and lack of comfort wliich is often reflected in
  
  
  24
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  the manner of the house mistress upon the rare
  occasions when she is called upon to sit in it in
  state to do honour to her guests.
  
  Pretty occasional tables and daintily up-
  holstered tapestry settees, one or two cosy
  tapestry easy-chairs, a tea-table, a d^a^ving-
  room cabinet, an escritoire, and a piano should
  be present in every well-furnished drawing-room,
  to say nothing of such ornamental accessories
  as tapestry screens, flower-pots on stands, and
  the innumerable ti-ifles which go to complete the
  furnisliing of a really cosy room. Needless to
  say, hea\'y furniture of all kinds should be
  banished ; everything in the room should be as
  dainty and artistic as possible.
  
  Inleiid mahogany and rosewood are largely
  used in the construction of present-day drawing-
  room furniture. There is much that is French
  in the modem style, wliich is of graceful and
  refined design. Furniture manufacturers seem
  to have taken as their groundwork some of the
  best characteristics of the old world styles,
  
  
  Comer Chair.
  
  
  Occasional Table.
  
  
  evolving from them a style particularly suitable
  for present-day needs. Drawing-room chairs
  are of a dainty spindle-legged design, the pretty
  little corner chair being especially typical of
  present-day drawing-room suites. Tables are
  small, light, and graceful. The needs of the
  slender purse are particularly well catered for
  by the modern furniture dealer. People of
  average means are no longer compelled to
  furnish their drawing-rooms with all sorts of
  odds and ends, and chairs which quarrel with
  each other in both colour and design axe now
  seldom seen in even the most poorly furnished
  rooms, as complete furniture suites in inlaid
  mahogany or satinwood can be purchased
  for quite a moderate svun. The less expensive
  suit<" do not contain so many pieces as the
  more expensive kinds ; sometimes only a settee,
  two small chairs, two comer chairs, and a round
  table are provided. In these circumstances
  the furnishing scheme must be completed by
  purchasing by degrees one or two upholstered
  arm-chairs, and, if possible, a small sum should
  be expended upon one or two dainty little
  occasional tables to match the rest of the suite.
  A cabinet and an escritoire might also be added
  as sooa as the purse allows. The settees pro-
  
  
  vided with drawing-room suites are always of
  the same spindle-legged pattern as the chairs,
  and an added air of cosiness will therefore be
  imparted bj' the addition of a pretty drawing-
  room Chesterfield or some other similar type of
  softly upholstered settee or couch. A jardiniere
  to match the furniture will also be effective ;
  and where a brass standard lamp mth a soft
  deUcately coloured silk shade, may be had,
  the effect of the pretty subdued light it gives
  at night is very pleasing. A little " tea com-
  panion," upon which plates of cake and bread
  and butter may be handed round at afternoon
  tea, is a piece of furniture the usefulness of which
  must be by no means overlooked. A tasteful
  fire-screen, preferably one draped in deUcate silk,
  liberty style, should be placed before the grate.
  Tlie clock should be in keeping with the general
  daintiness of the room. Very pretty designs
  may be had in the refined Sheraton and Chip-
  pendale styles for quite a moderate outlay.
  An art tapestry screen in a framework of
  mahogany or any other wood of which the
  furniture may be composed may also be added
  with effect. The drawing-room is essentially a
  room to which little extras may be added by
  degrees, but - and this is very important - the
  additions must always be in keeping T\ith the
  general furniture scheme.
  
  The larger the room the more advantageously
  can the daintiness of drawing-room furniture
  be displayed. It is a mistake, however, to
  crowd too much furniture into a small room, not
  only from the point of view of space, but owing
  to the fact that its effect will be completely
  lost and the room made to look smaller than
  it is.
  
  A small drawing-room should, if possible, be
  papered in white. A white satin striped paper
  with a very narrow floral frieze would be effec-
  tive. (For Drawing-room Decoration, see p. 15.)
  Water-colour sketches and delicate engravings
  are the most suitable pictures for drawing-room
  walls.
  
  A pretty Indian carpet with a light ground
  makes a very effective floor covering. Wilton,
  Brussels, and Axminster carpets in the lighter
  tones are also suitable (see carpets, p. 20).
  Where a seamless woven square carpet is
  used in a small room plain Japanese matting
  ■will be found to make a very good surround.
  
  Many drawing-rooms are furnished nowadays
  in reproductions of famous period styles such
  as Chippendale, Adam, Sheraton, Hepplewhite,
  Louis XV., or Louis XVI. Needless to say,
  where such a style is adopted everything must
  be in keeping. Chairs of one period must not
  be mixed up with tables of anotlicr, and a bureau
  of still another epoch ; wall papers and carpets
  must also be chosen in accordance with the
  particular furniture scheme.
  
  Arrangement of Furniture. - A great deal will
  depend upon the suitable arrangement of the
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  25
  
  
  room. The position of a piano, for instance,
  has spoiled the effect of many otherwise well-
  arranged drawing-rooms. Very often it is
  necessary to place an upright piano against the
  wall through exigencies of space. A more
  graceful effect, however, is usually obtained by
  placing it at a convenient angle. Where it is
  an old and shabby-looking instrument the face
  of it can be turned towards a corner of the room
  hidden from aU but the pianist, whilst the back
  can be draped in silk of a delicate art shade.
  Whenever an upright piano is placed with its
  back turned away from the wall it should be
  draped in this manner.
  
  Grand pianos give an air of " finish " to a
  drawing-room wliich is achieved by no other
  means. A pretty silk cover should be kept
  over the top if photograplis or ornaments of any
  kind are to stand upon it. It is bad taste to
  have too many ornaments or photogi-aphs on a
  piano, a panel photograph in a very handsome
  frame and one or two choice ornaments being
  quite sufficient. It requires
  a very large room to show
  off a grand piano to advan-
  tage. Demi -grands look very
  well, and the ' ' Baby Grands ' '
  are very suitable both for
  large and moderately siz;ed
  rooms. Piano-stools are not
  now inartistic as of yore.
  The high round piano-stools
  are things of the past ; more
  attention is now paid to both comfort and appear-
  ance in regard to this piece of furniture. The
  design pictured in our illustration is much in
  vogue at present.
  
  Choice of a Piano. - In choosing a piano four
  important things must be considered, i.e. size,
  volume of sound, tone, and touch. In connection
  with the first two the size of the room must be
  taken into consideration so that both size and
  volume of sound are in proportion. In regard
  to tone, where singing is an accomplishment in
  the family it must be seen that the piano has a
  good singing tone. The pianist of the family
  should also try it before it is purchased to see
  that it is in every way to his (or her) satisfaction
  in regard to touch. There are many makes of
  pianos noted for their soft beautiful tones, such
  as those bearing the names of Rud Ibach, Sohn ;
  Bechstein, Erard, and innumerable others.
  
  Hall, Staircase, and Landings. - Within recent
  years good taste in hall furniture has decidedly
  increased. There is a leaning towards the
  artistic in every way. Instead of the one time
  conventional combined hat-rack and umbrella-
  stand we find the quaint, old world monk's
  settle and the separate umbrella-stand and
  neat wall rack for hats and coats. Oak is a very
  favourite wood for hall furniture. Imposing
  looking richly carved oak settles with chairs to
  match are pieces of furniture upon which very
  
  
  Piano-Stool.
  
  
  large sums of money may be spent, but the needs
  of the shopper with the slender purse have been
  by no means overlooked in tliis connection.
  Plain artistically designed settles may be had in
  fumed oak for as small a sum as £1, Is. ; a neat
  fumed oak umbrella-stand can be purchased for
  six or seven shilhngs, whilst high-backed oak
  chairs may also be had for very moderate
  prices. Where there is an outer hall or vestibule
  both hat-rack and umbrella-stand should be
  
  
  Hat-Rack.
  
  placed there. A grandfather's clock is a very
  effective piece of hall furniture. It should always
  occupy a prominent position near the staircase.
  Mats to be placed outside thљ various room
  doors should not be overlooked when furnishing
  the hall. There should also be a good fibre
  mat in the vestibule.
  
  If the hall is a bright one some pictures can
  be displayed to advantage upon the walls, also
  any military or hunting trophies (see Hall
  Decoration, p. 16). Where there is a high
  white dado crowned with a projecting rail or
  
  
  Umbrella-Stand.
  
  sheK, one or two good pieces of china might be
  displayed upon this.
  
  Wliere the haU is carpeted staircase and
  landing carpets should match the hall carpet.
  In high houses, however, the flight of stairs
  leading to the servants' room may be covered with
  oilcloth. If a tenant is fortunate enough to
  seem-e a house with a tiled hall, she will be
  spared the expense of purchasing a floor -covering
  of any kind, for a few mats will be all that is
  
  
  26
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  necessary. One or two pictures may be hung on
  the walls of the stair"-ay if the hght is sufficiently
  good for them to be properly seen.
  
  WTiere there axe good landings these are
  capable of tasteful decorative treatment. In
  houses where there is a large alcoved landing
  leading from tho first flight of stairs to a side
  wing of the house, the alcove should bo prettily
  draped with curtains. A low-standing book-
  case enamelled wliite could bo placed upon the
  side facing the stairs with one or two choice
  pieces of art pottery displayed upon it. A
  small table and two chairs could occupy the
  curtained recess to the left. Tliose who are the
  fortunate possessors of some good piece of
  statuary might display it here to advantage.
  One or two tall J8u:dinieres contsuning palms
  
  
  Monk's Settle.
  
  ■would also be effective. Such a landing, if
  cosily furnished, can easily be used as a smoking
  lounge. We do not all possess large square
  landings, however, but even very tiny landings,
  if of the proper shape, can be gracefully treated
  by means of hangings and appropriately placed
  jsu'dinieres.
  
  There are so very many different types of
  halls and landings that it is rather difficult to
  lay down hard and fast rules for their treatment.
  The ordinary passage hall does not lend itself
  to much decoration. Very often there is only
  room for settle, hat-rack, and umbrella-stand.
  Chairs are really unnecessary where there is a
  good oak settle, but they should always form
  part of tho hall fiu-niture where there is none.
  
  The Lounge Hall. - This description covers two
  widely different types of hall. The large square
  hall of the country mansion, with its carved
  wood panelling, deep wide staircase, and hand-
  some furniture, need not hero be dealt with.
  Such halls aire only possessed as a rule by people
  with whom money is no object and who can
  afford to pay for the most ejqiert advice upon
  the question of furnishing. But there is another
  type of square haU which is often met with
  now a lays, i.e. that which forms a characteristic
  feature of tho modem type of bungalow or flat.
  
  
  In the smaller flats where there is only one
  sitting-room a hall of tliis kind has to do duty
  as another sitting-room or lounge. In these
  circumstances it should be furnished as much
  like a room as possible. Screens should be
  used to keep off the draught from tho front
  door, whilst curtains should hang from the doors
  of the rooms wliich lead out into the hall. A
  cork carpet in a sliade of axt green could be used
  as a floor-covering, with two or three warm cosy-
  looking mats scattered over it. Umbrella-stand
  and hat-rack should be banished away in some
  liidden corner. Near the fire-place might be
  placed a glass-fronted cupboard, painted wliite,
  in which either dinner or tea-set could be dis-
  played. If space permits there might also be a
  low wliite enamelled book-case, upon which one
  or two pretty vases in Wedgwood blue could
  stand. Two low chairs and a cushioned settee
  would complete the " sitting-room " illusion.
  A bright fire burning in the grate in winter will
  increase the homely and comfortable appearance
  of the hall sitting-room. In flats with oiJy one
  sitting-room such an arrangement wUl be found
  not only cosy but convenient. Care must be
  taken, however, to reduce draughts to a mini-
  mum. All doors leading on the hall should be
  kept closed when it is in use and the portieres
  drawn well over them.
  
  Dinlng-Room. - Large sums of money are very
  often spent upon dining-room furniture with
  very poor results. There is a tradition with
  most people that the dining-room must be
  sombre and heavy looking, and in the effort of
  living up to that tradition they often succeed
  in turning out a room which is so gloomy in
  appearance that to spend any amount of time
  in it is to become hopelessly depressed.
  
  This is a great mistake. The dining-room,
  it is true, must be furnished in a dignified
  manner, but cheerfulness must not be banished
  from it. We have gone past the days of the
  ponderoiis Victorian sideboard and hideous
  horse-hair chairs. All should realise the fact
  that our dining-rooms may be dignified and at
  the same time pleasing and artistic.
  
  There was a time when the cost of furnishing
  the simplest type of dining-room was so great
  that people of slender means could seluom
  afford to furnish the room outright, but were
  forced to pvirchaso the various articles by
  degrees. Nowadays things have changed -
  furniture manufactiirers supply complete suites
  at reasonable prices, as a visit to any of
  their show-rooms can prove, and, what is more,
  the workmanship is good and the design
  excellent.
  
  In former times the design of cheap furniture
  was seldom good, hence the public belief in the
  " cheap and naisty " theory which is still so
  widely spread. It is true iliat to obtain really
  good furniture one must pay a good price, but
  the fact remains that manufacturers and dealers
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  27
  
  
  >rodel Dining-Roora for small Flat (Maple).
  
  
  A Simple Bedroom {Heal d: Sotis).
  
  
  28
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  are studying more and more the needs of those
  to whom money is an object, recognising that
  it is not of people with unlimited wealth at their
  disposal with wliich to indulge their most ex-
  travagant tastes that the major part of the
  great army of shoppers is composed, but rather
  of those who have only a certain sum to spend,
  and who must necesstirily keep within its hmits.
  
  
  Diimer-"Waggon.
  
  First of all, the dining-room must be suitably
  decorated (see p. 15). A few well-chosen oil-
  paintings and family portraits (if any) may adorn
  the walls. Failing these some very good en-
  graxings in frames of the same wood as the
  furniture. A good Turkey carpet is the carpet
  par excellence for a dining-room, but we cannot
  all afford to indulge in luxuries of the kind.
  Let the carpet at any rate be as soft in
  appearance as possible, with a good pile. Oak,
  mahogany, and walnut are the principal woods
  utilised in the manufact\ire of dining-room furni-
  ture. Especially inexpensive, and at the same
  time good, furnitiore may be had in what is
  known as " fumed oak."
  
  At one time even the cheapest makes of
  sideboards cost a fair siun, and so very often
  this article of furniture had to be banished from
  the list of many a young couple furnishing on
  very small means. Nowadaj's a most artistic
  style of fumed oak sideboard, something akin
  to a Welsh dresser in appearance, may be
  obtained for an outlay of only a few pounds.
  This type of sideboard is very effective in dining-
  room decoration. It is a type also which is
  very fashionable at the present time. One or
  two pieces of china should always bo displayed
  on the shelves, Dutch fashion. Blue or blue
  and white china looks prettiest with oak. Of
  the expensive sideboards in the old Dutch styles
  richness of carving is the chief characteristic.
  In most of these glass in any shape or form is
  conspicuous by its absence.
  
  A dining-room can be well furnished at a
  cost of between £18 and £20, the furniture
  inclu'lmg an inexpensive fumed oak dresser of
  
  
  the kind described, some high-backed fumed
  oak chairs neatly upholstered in green leather,
  a good oak dining-table, a diiuier-waggon, or
  butler's tray, an easy-chair, a small writing-
  table, and the necosseu-y equipment in the way
  of cloth table-cover, curtains, cornice pole,
  fender, fire-irons, coal-scuttle, carpet and sur-
  round hearthrug. Where strict economy has
  to be practised the easy-chair and the writing-
  table may be omitted. Very inexpensive black
  iron coal-scuttles, gipsy pattern, may be pur-
  chased for a few shillings, and can be made to
  do duty whore a better kind cannot be afforded.
  A pretty cloth or art serge table-cover can be
  made at home for a very small outlay, and
  casement curtains may also be made for a
  trifling cost by the clever home worker. (See
  Furnisliing Lists, p. 30.)
  
  Morning and Breakfast-Room. - These two
  titles are bracketed together because in the
  generality of houses, where there are but three
  or four reception rooms at most, the terms
  " morning-room " and " breakfast-room " ere
  synonymous. The " breakfast " or " morning "
  room may be taken to indicate the most generally
  useful room in the house. It is writing-room,
  sewing-room, and school-room in turn. Many a
  morning is spent in this room by the busy house
  mistress in writing letters, going over accounts,
  and attending to innumerable small household
  details. It is also often the room where the
  elder children, emancipated from the nursery,
  prepare their lessons, and partake of that ever
  favovirite meal of childhood - the five o'clock
  tea.
  
  Tlie furniture for the morning-room or break-
  fast-room must therefore be chosen with due
  
  
  Gate-legged Table.
  
  regard to the uses to which it will be put. As
  meals are to be served in this room a sideboard
  will be necessary. This can be much smaller
  and of lighter design than that of the dining-
  room. Then there must be a table - a fair-
  sized round gate-leg table of fumed oak would
  be useful and at the same time inexpensive.
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  29
  
  
  &3 a good one may be purchased for about
  £3. Fumed oak chairs with rush seats may
  be purchased for from 12s. each. In addi-
  tion, there should be a large lounge easy-chair
  or two small tapestry arm-chairs, a small
  writing-table for the special use of the house
  mistress, and a book-case or some book-shelves
  for the children's school books.
  
  Wliere there are no cliildren, the morning-
  room Tvill be probably utilised as her own
  special room by the mistress of the house. In
  these circumstances she will be able to give
  full scope to her taste for dainty and graceful
  effects. Chairs may be upholstered in tapestry,
  pretty engra\'ings can be hung upon the walls,
  and, apart from the sideboard, which is a neces-
  sity in a breakfast-room, the whole scheme of
  furnishing may be such that it might be aptly
  termed a " boudoir."
  
  There are many possibiHties in the f\:rnishing
  of a morning-room, possibiHties which must
  always, however, be guided by individual cir-
  cumstances.
  
  The Library. - ^There should be an air of rest-
  fulness about the Hbrary, conducive to read-
  ing and study. A flat leather top desk with
  drawers on either side should be placed in a
  good light. The writing equipment should be
  complete in every way - inkstand, pen-rest,
  blotter and letter weight, a stand for note-
  paper and envelopes and telegram forms and
  postcards should all be there and should be kept
  neat and tidy. To go with this desk there should
  be a low desk-chair - the round leather up-
  holstered revolving-chair is the most comfort-
  able type. A very large arm-chair in which
  the master of the house can lounge at ease
  while reading one of his favourite works is also
  
  
  Flat Library Desk
  
  a necessity in the well -furnished library. Near
  this chair should be one of the ever-handy re-
  volving book-cases from which the reader may
  select a volume at will. A large stationary
  book-case will also be necessary. This should
  be with adjustable shelves in order that books
  of all sizes can be placed upon it. A very good
  sectional extending book-case may be purchased
  for a little over £3. One or two high-backed
  
  
  Hevolring Book-case.
  
  
  chairs should also be in the room, and a good
  hassock footstool should be placed neeir the easy-
  chair.
  
  In houses where there is Uttle money to spend
  upon book-cases and other similar articles of
  furniture, much may be done
  by the home worker to-
  wards its equipment. With
  a Httle knowledge of carpen-
  tering inexpensive shelves
  can be made and fitted
  round the walls. These
  should always have some
  sort of border, not only as
  a finish but to keep off the
  dust. It may be often
  found advantageous to pur-
  chase the writing-table from
  one of the large oflEice-fur-
  nishing firms, as very often
  
  these firms have second-hand goods which they
  are willing to sell at quite a moderate sum.
  Desk-chairs may often also be purchased in
  this way. A httle smokers' cabinet should also
  find a place upon the wall.
  
  There should always be dark curtains in the
  library - red or green are particularly suitable.
  Where there is a portiere over the door it should
  be of the same colour as the window curtains.
  (For Library Decoration, see p. 16.)
  
  Bedroom Furniture. - The stiffness, ugUness,
  and lack of comfort generally which character-
  ised the furnit-ure of the early Victorian era,
  was in no way more clearly demonstrated than
  in regard to furniture for the bedroom.
  Happily the heavy, cumbersome high chest of
  drawers, the ungainly wardrobe, and the deal
  muslin-bedecked table which, svu-mounted by a
  looking-glass of the most conventional pattern,
  did duty as toilet-table in even the best rooms
  of the average middle-class household, are now
  things of the past, at any rate with all those
  who prefer the present-day artistic furniture
  to the atrocities of the early Victorian tradition.
  There are still some people, it is true, who, whilst
  sparing neither trouble nor expense in the sviit-
  able furnishing of dining-room, drawing-room,
  and other reception rooms, barely give a thought
  to the furnishing of their bedrooms. So long
  as the reception rooms are nice anything will
  do for the bedrooms seems to be their guiding
  principle, and whilst money is spent ungrudg-
  ingly upon the decoration of the other rooms
  a totally inadequate sum is set apart for the
  furnishing of those rooms in which after all they
  spend a very considerable portion of the twenty-
  four hours.
  
  Happily in these enlightened days there are
  comparatively few people who take so de-
  cidedly unenlightened a view of things. With
  those who do, it must be presumed that tradi-
  tion dies hard and that they are simply carrying
  on the tastes of their grandmothers. Sensible
  
  
  30
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  people are keenly alive to the fact that, apart
  from the usual number of hours spent in the
  bedroom, intervals of illness are apt to occur
  in the hves of every one of us. In these cir-
  cumstances should not our bedrooms be as
  bright, cheery, and as pleasing to the eye as pos-
  sible ? Neither ungainly inartistic furniture
  nor hideous wall pa^^er will be conducive to the
  cheerfulness of an invalid in that period of con-
  valescence, during which a morbid and depressed
  state of mind will do more than anytliing else to
  retard recovery. On the other hand, a prettily
  decorated room, with a bright pleasing wall
  paper, tasteful furniture, however simple, and
  a cheerj- aspect have more influence in keeping
  up the spirits of the invalid and assisting her
  to a speedy recovery than one would generally
  suppose.
  
  The ideal bedroom has a sunny aspect.
  Tliere is something especially exhilarating
  about the morning sun. Care should be taken,
  however, to see that the rays of the sun do not
  beat down direct upon the forehead of the
  sleeper on those summer mornings when sun-
  rise occurs at a time when she has not com-
  pleted more than three-quarters of her full
  amount of sleep. Needless to say, suitable
  blinds should be provided for every bedroom,
  and these should be kept well lowered, or, if
  there is a casement window, the curtains should
  be drawn. When the plan of the room allows of
  such an arrangement, the bed should be placed
  so that the window does not face, but comes
  to one side of it. In this way the discomfort
  of the early morning glare will be avoided.
  
  It is also essential that the bed should not
  be placed in a draught. The head of the bed
  should never be facing the window, for instance,
  neither should the fire-place be on the same side
  of the room as the door. If only for purposes
  of ventilation, there should always be a fire-
  place in the bedroom - an open gas-fire is especi-
  ally useful, as it does away with the labour of
  setting fires and carrying up coals, and can be
  turned off and on as required without invohnng
  any trouble.
  
  WTien taking a house a Woman should be
  careful in looking over the bedrooms to note if
  they contain any fitted cupboards. Tliese are
  a boon in every household, and, painted a
  pretty white to match the woodwork, they
  tidd considerably to the ornamentation of the
  room. The presence or absence of these cup-
  boeirds should alwaj's form a consideration in
  the taking of a house. It is also advisable to
  study the structure of the walls. In many
  cases where cupboards are lacking there maj' be
  convenient alcoves where these may easily be
  fitted, or, if money is a consideration, they may
  be utilised for making pretty curtain cup-
  boards. Suitably placed alcoves are capable of
  treatn.ent, by which they may add considerably
  to the decoration of a room. An alcove just
  
  
  over the bed, for instance, lends itself to tasteful
  curtain drapery. Where one occurs over the
  window it may be treated in the same way.
  
  In the Queen Anne style of house especially,
  many of the quaint old-world casement windows
  are set into deep alcoves. What prettier effect
  may bo obtained than by furnishing the window
  with a dainty chintz-covered window-seat, and
  draping the alcove with head valance and
  curtains of chintz to match that used in the
  upholstering of the seat ?
  
  The furnishing of the bedroom should be
  studied first of all from the point of view of
  hygiene and comfort. Where there is a fitted
  carpet to the room, or a square carpet which
  goes under the bed, it should be seen that the
  mattress of the latter stands at a sufficient height
  from the floor to enable the dust to be easily
  taken from underneath it. There are many
  makes of bedsteads nowadays, more especially
  those of the various modern French styles,
  which are so low as to almost touch the floor,
  leaving little or no space between the floor and
  the mattress. Such a style of bed may be
  artistic, but it is certainly far from comfortable,
  and in no circumstances shoidd comfort be
  made to give way to art, the ideal furnituro
  being essentially that in which art and comfort
  are combined.
  
  Medical authorities have laid much stress
  upon the fact that carpets in bedrooms are
  merely harbingers of dust and dirt, and there-
  fore unhygienic. Tl:ey maintain that there
  should be no carpets under beds, as these cannot
  always be moved every day for sweeping purposes
  and dust is apt to accumulate there because un-
  seen. Bedroom manufacturers have, however,
  found a way out of this difficultj', and Messrs.
  Heal & Sons, of Tottenham Court Road, London,
  sell beds which are furnished with patent rails
  upon which they can be moved with the greatest
  ease.
  
  There is no doubt that linoleum is the best
  floor covering for a bedroom from the point of
  hygiene. It can be easily swept and washed,
  and one or two nice rugs will serve as a con-
  cession to the claims of comfort and warmth.
  
  The next best thing would of course be a
  square carpet with a linoleum or a stained floor
  surround. There are people who object, how-
  ever, to the cold look of the bare boards or
  of linoleum even if they only appear on the
  border of the room. In these circumstances a
  plain felt surround to tone with the carpet is
  very useful.
  
  The brass bedstead is much in vogue at the
  present day. It is not the cumbersome-looking
  object of yore, but a well-designed and useful
  piece of furniture. Wlien fitted with swinging
  Italian wings it can bo prettily draped with
  dainty cretonne or other artistic hangings to
  tone with the colour scheme of the room.
  Draperies of this kind suspended from wings.
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  31
  
  
  and wall draperies hung in artistic fashion from
  the wall against which the head of the bed stands,
  are the only form of bed-curtains used nowadays,
  excepting in the case of the old-time four-poster
  
  
  Bedstead on Metal Tramway.
  
  which is still to be found in many homes, and
  revivals of which many bed manufacturers are
  placing upon the market. Valances are as a
  rule Umited to the latter type of bedstead.
  
  The wooden bedsteads now on the market are
  artistic in every way and free from that ugliness
  which characterised those of Victorian days. They
  are no longer ungainly, cxmibersome pieces of
  furniture, too heavy to move and consequently
  difficult to clean. Fitted with all the most up
  to date improvements, including iron frames
  and wire mattresses, they do not now act as
  harbingers of dust and dirt. To the many
  hygienic disadvantages of the old-time wooden
  bedstead may be ascribed the subsequent craze
  for anything in metal, however ugly in pattern.
  Some of the most ornamental wooden bedsteads
  are those of inlaid mahogany in Sheraton style.
  Iron bedsteads can be had for the most moderate
  outlay. A white enamelled iron bedstead al-
  ways looks dainty and clean. It is one of the
  best and most useful types of inexpensive
  bedsteads, and looks especially well with brass
  tope. The ordinary low iron bedsteads are
  very suitable for servants' rooms.
  
  Bedding. - It is of the utmost importance that
  the bedding should be of the best. Many people
  are apt to study show more than comfort when
  furnishing their bedrooms, with the result that
  the important question of bedding is very often
  neglected. It never answers to purchase very
  cheap bedding, for the latter is apt to prove
  
  
  only too dear in the long run. A cheap mattress
  is not only uncomfortable, but it is an actual
  menace to the health.
  
  Woven wire spring mattresses with good
  horse-hair or wool over mattresses should be
  used where possible. Good hair mattresses,
  however, are apt to be somewhat costly, and
  therefore are not always within reach of the
  average purse. Good wool mattresses are in-
  finitely preferable to cheap hair ones. They
  should in all cases be purchased from a re-
  liable furniture dealer, preferably from a firm
  who make a speciality of bedroom furniture
  and bedding, for in this case good value is
  assured.
  
  In buying mattresses never be misled by
  an attractive covering, which too often hides
  much that is deficient in the quality of the
  material of which it is comprised. For this
  reason it is seldom ad\'isable to purchase what
  are described as " bargains " at sales. The
  common qualities of horse-hair mattresses are
  filled with various sorts of " short hair " which
  afford no hold to the " ties," and therefore tend
  to move and work into those uncomfortable
  " lumps " which so often turn a bed into a
  regular instrument of torture. On the other
  hand, the fine long horse-hair used in good
  
  
  Italian Wing-Drapery.
  
  mattresses gives a proper hold to the " ties "
  and is kept in place by them. The French
  mattresses, which contain a special quality of
  hair mixed with white wool, are exceedingly soft
  and comfortable. Cheap flock mattresses, which
  are made up from any sort of rags, shovild be
  alwaj's avoided.
  
  
  32
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  The wii-e mattress should be covered with a
  piece of ticking or Hessian to prevent it from
  rubbing the hair mattress which is placed over it.
  
  The colour scheme of a bedroom should be
  as bright and cheery as possible, and always
  chosen with due regard to the aspect of the
  room and to the furniture which it will
  contain (see p. 16). Whore the hygienic method
  of covering the floor with linoleum or cork
  carpet is adopted, care should be ta.ken to prevent
  t 1 3 room from having a bare appearance by
  putting down a number of warm and cosy-look-
  ing rugs of as good a quality as can be procured
  for the sum available. Everything that tonds
  to harbour dust and dirt should be absent from
  the bedroom. There should never be an excess
  of ornamental trifles and knick-knacks about
  the room. Girls are especially prone to collect
  these httle ornaments, to the despair of many
  a hard-working housemaid.
  
  Furniture. - The best-designed bedroom furni-
  ture of to-day combines much of the artistic
  effects of the famous epochs in furnitTore history
  with a strict attention to convenience of con-
  struction as necessitated by modern needs.
  Modern bedroom furniture manufacturers also
  make a special feature of reproductions from
  the antique. Needless to say, when a bedroom
  is furnished in accordance with a certain period,
  decoration, carpet, hangings, all must conform
  with this furniture scheme.
  
  Oak, naahogany, satinwood, rosewood are
  very favourite materials for bedroom suites.
  There is also a great vogue at present for white
  enamelled furniture. This fashion comes as
  something in the nature of a blessing in disguise
  for the woman with a slender purse, as the
  white enamelled suites show a wide range of
  prices, the cheaper kinds being procurable for
  a few pounds.
  
  Every furnitxire sviito should comprise a
  wardrobe, a dressing-table, a wash-stand and
  two chairs, although in some of the more
  inexpensive smtes only toilet table, chest of
  drawers, and wash-stand are included. When
  the latter is not fitted with rails for towels a
  towel-horse should be provided. It should be
  ascertained that the locks of drawers and
  wardrobe cupboards are in order, that the
  drawers open and shut easily, and that the
  inside of each piece of furniture is in as good
  condition as the outside. The wash-stand
  should have a marble top and be tiled at the
  back. A sheet of emdcca might also be fixed
  up at the back of the wash-stand instead of the
  ordinary " splasher " for the protection of the
  wall. A cosy easy-chair and a table should
  also be included in the bedroom furnit'ire
  where possible. Very daintily upholstered little
  tapestry arm-chairs may be obtained at quite
  moderate prices. For an inexpensively furnished
  room an ordinary basket chair painted to tone
  with the furnitiire and with pretty cretonne
  
  
  cushions can be made to answer the purpose.
  A box ottoman daintily upholstered in cretonne
  is a most useful piece of furniture, more especi-
  allj' in flats where the cupboard accommodation
  is necessarily limited. This inay be either
  purchased from a furniture shop or fashioned
  by the deft fingers of the home upholsterer.
  Pretty cretonne, chintz, lace, or other washable
  curtains are the most suitable for the bed-
  room. Heavy hangings of any kind should be
  avoided. The walls should not be covered with
  pictures - one or two engra\'ing8 in Ught-coloured
  frames will be sufficient.
  
  The toilet-table linen should always be fresh
  and spotless. The pretty duc'icsse sets con-
  sisting of a narrow lace-edged or hem-stitched
  toilet cover and mats are the most suitable
  for the present-day type of table. These sets
  are often used also for the wash-stand. They
  are apt to get very wet, however, if they are
  left on during the toilet ablutions, and for this
  reason most people prefer to do without them.
  The general equipment of the toilet-table in
  regard to pin-cushions (well supplied with pins),
  hat-pin and hair-pin tidies must not be neglected.
  Any silver displayed on the table should be kept
  clean and well polished. All these are details,
  attention to which will go a long way to secur-
  ing the cosy effect in bedroom decorations which
  some people find it so hard to achieve.
  
  
  THE DRESSING-ROOM
  
  The decoration of a dressing-room should con-
  form with that of the bedroom which it adjoins.
  It should contain a good roomy
  gentleman's wardrobe, a shaving-
  stand with mirror, also washstand
  and suit-case stand. A shaving-
  stand is to be preferred to the
  ordinary toilet-table, not only be-
  cause it takes up much less room,
  though this is an important con-
  sideration as dressing-room space
  is usually limited, but also be-
  cause a shaving-glass is much more
  easily adjusted to the correct angle
  required by the person shaving,
  and, being very light, it is easily
  moved to any convenient position.
  
  Toilet Ware. - Over-elaboration
  of design in toilet ware should
  be avoided in tastefully furnished Shaving-Mirror
  homos. Artistic yet simple pat-
  terns should be chosen. Patterns after the style
  of Wedgwood and Spode arc much favoured by
  those whose furnishing is on artistic lines. Plain
  colours and simple shapes go best with the
  present-day style of bedroom furniture. The
  self-coloured art wares are largely used, and
  with these the quaintly Hhapod ewer with a
  spout like that of a teapot is often seen. On
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  33
  
  
  the whole, the ewers of a more conventional
  design are preferable to these.
  
  In addition to the regular toilet set there
  should be a white china slop-pail, a water-bottle,
  and a glass in every bedroom.
  
  THE BATH-ROOM
  
  In the bath-room the sanitary fittings should
  be beyond reproach. In a rented house this
  will of course be the landlord's affair, so when
  looking over a house particular attention should
  be paid to the bath-room fittings. A good
  fitted iron bath of the latest type with taps
  for hot and cold water and waste and without
  any wooden casing is the best. Iron baths
  are preferable to the more luxurious porcelain,
  as the latter take a great deal of heat from
  the water, taxing the capacity of the kitchen
  range to the utmost, whereas with iron baths
  the heat of the water is retained. There are
  several methods of covering and finishing the
  interior surface of iron baths. Of these the
  porcelain enamel process is perhaps the most
  effective. Where this process has been applied
  the interior of the bath presents the same
  enamelled surface as earthenware - ^the enamel
  is also very durable.
  
  A fitted lavatory basin with hot and cold
  Water-supply is very desirable in a bath-room.
  Beyond the actual fittings very little furniture
  is required. There should be a towel-rail, a
  cane-seated chair, a stool, and a rack for sponges
  and soap to be hung on the wall next to the bath.
  One of the new bath-racks which fit across the
  centre of the bath to act as receptacle for the
  soap and sponge which the bather is actually
  using is also usefiil, as it does away with the
  necessity of reaching up whenever anything is
  required to the rack on the wall. A cork bath-
  mat and one or two warm bath-rugs are also
  necessary. There should also be a mirror on
  the wall, preferably the regulation bath-room
  mirror, with a drawer for brushes and combs.
  Cork carpet or linoleum are the best floor
  coverings for bath-rooms. (For Bath-room
  Wall Coverings, see p. 14.)
  
  FURNISHING A BED-SITTING-ROOM
  
  The bed-sitting-room represents the home of
  many a woman worker, who often takes more
  pride in the arrangement of the few simple
  articles she can call her own and the purchase
  of which in many instances have involved
  several little acts of self-sacrifice than does the
  possessor of the most luxurious furniture which
  money can buy.
  
  It is wonderful what good results may be
  achieved with comparatively little outlay in the
  furnishing of a room of the kind, but necessity
  nearly always proves " the mother of invention,"
  as the many ingenious yet simple contrivances
  
  
  which can Tdc resorted to in furnishing a bed-
  sitting-room will go very far to prove.
  
  The great object to be attained in furnishing
  a bed-sitting-room is to arrange it in such a
  manner that it gives no idea of a bedroom during
  the daytime. This result is not so difficult to
  achieve as one would suppose. Before taking the
  room, first of all ascertain that the wall -paper is
  not one of those glaring atrocities so often met
  with in the present-day lodging-house. If the
  room is suitable in every way and the wall-paper is
  the only drawback try and get the landlady to
  have it re-papered. If she is not disposed to do
  so offer to share part of the expense, which will
  not be much. Very simple and effective paper
  may be bought for an ordinary-sized room at
  an entire cost of from 15s. to 20s., including the
  work of hanging, and rather than put up with
  ugly WaU-paper it will be foimd better in the
  long run to bear the cost oneself, if the landlady
  is obdurate on the point.
  
  It is well to observe when taking the room
  if there are any cupboard fitments. A good
  
  
  The "Divan" Bed.
  
  roomy cupboard will save the purchase of a
  wardrobe which, besides being somewhat ex-
  pensive to buy, would go a long way towards
  destroying the sitting-room illusion during the
  day. If a wardrobe is a necessity then one
  of the plain inexpensive bamboo cupboards
  without any glass in front would be the best to
  purchase. If the cost of a carpet cannot be
  afforded, stain the floor with permanganate o£
  potash and polish it with bees'-wax and tur-
  pentine- ^the cost of this will be very trifling
  if you do the whole work yourself. Two or
  three pretty rugs may be purchased for a few
  sMUings each. A fairly good art square carpet
  for a small room may be purchased for about
  25s. ; with this only the surround of the floor
  need be stained.
  
  The furniture should include a bed which can be
  made to look as much like a couch in the daytime
  as possible - a perfectly flat bed of the camp
  variety without any upstanding head or foot -piece
  would do. With this there should be a good
  soft wool mattress. The bed should always be
  placed against the wall. In the daytime the
  bed-clothes can be neatly folded up and placed
  
  C
  
  
  34
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  nnderneath the mattress, and the whole can be
  covered with a pretty Indian rug. Arrange on
  this one or two cushions and the result is a
  very cosy and effective-looking eastern divan.
  Special couch beds are now largely sold by
  furniture manufacturers.
  
  A small plain deal table with one or two
  drawers may be purchased for five or six sliillings.
  This should be stained a shade corresponding
  
  
  Dwarf Cupboard.
  
  with the rest of the furniture of the room and
  placed against the wall, and a good-sized
  looldng-glass hung on the wall directly over it.
  The table will do duty as both toilet-table and
  writing-table. In the daytime the brushes and
  hand-mirror, together with the toilet-cover and
  mats, may be put aside in the drawer, their
  places being taken by a neat blotting-pad, an
  ink-stand, and the necessary writing materials.
  A dwarf cupboard could be made to do duty
  as a washstand, the toilet ware being placed in-
  side the cupboard during the daytime ; or, if the
  conventional wash-stand is preferred, this could
  be placed in a corner of the room and com-
  pletely hidden by a large screen.
  
  Then there must be a table large enough for
  meals. A round deal gate-leg table would be
  very useful, as the flaps can be let down and the
  table put on one side when the meal is not in
  progress. A large box ottoman in wliich clothes
  niay be kept should also form part of the fur-
  niture ; one or two smaller ones made out of
  sugar-boxes and upholstered in cretonne to
  match that of the ottoman would also be useful,
  acting as handy receptacles for millinery.
  
  At one side of the room there should be a low
  table or cupboard which can do duty as a side-
  board. The usefulneas of corner brackets and
  shelves in a room of this kind cannot be too
  highly estimated. A hanging corner cupboard
  with a glass door would bo especially useful for
  the display of a dainty afternoon tea service
  which cannot safely be trusted downstairs. Very
  many large general stores, such as Whiteley's
  in London, make a special feature of the sale
  of white wood articles for carving, poker work,
  or tnamelling. Very well-designed pieces of
  
  
  furniture may be had in this white wood at
  a comparatively smaU cost. Thirty shillings
  will purchase a pretty cliina cabinet in whito
  wood, wliilst a small book-case with glass doors
  may be had for even less, and a hanging book-
  case 27 inches liigh would cost from twelve
  to ^teon shillings. Small book-shelves and
  wall-brackets may be bought for from Is. Ud.
  and upwards. When properly stained or
  enamelled this furnitui-e looks very well indeed.
  For an extra change it can be stained at the shop
  where it is purchased
  
  Throe or four smaU chairs and one or two
  easy-chairs TsdU complete the furniture of the
  room. Upholstered tapestry arm-chairs may
  now be had for as Uttle as fifteen shillings.
  Wicker chairs when prettily upholstered can
  be made to look very cosy. When bought
  ready upholstered they necessarily cost more
  than when the work is undertaken at home.
  In the section upon home carpentery and up-
  holstery many useful hints are given in regard
  to the making of inexpensive little odds and
  ends for the home which the proud possessor
  ot a bed-sitting-room would do well to study.
  Pretty curtains and draperies, dainty table-
  
  
  Ottoman
  
  cloths, all can be made by the deft fingers of
  the woman who takes a pride in making her
  surroundings as cosy and dainty as possible,
  however heavily she may be handicapped in
  regard to means.
  
  Period Pamltnre.- Distinctive style in furnitiu-e
  IS becoming cultivated to a very great extent
  nowadays, and people who have the means with
  which to indulge their taste in this direction
  lilco to furnish at least one room in their house
  in accordance with one of the famous furniture
  periods. Genuine "* antiques " can as a rule be
  only indulged in by those with well-filled purses.
  Other people, however, may be fortunate enough
  to pos.sess one or two pieces of really good
  antique furniture which has come to them by
  inheritance. These should be cherished as
  articles of real value, and placed amongst
  surroundings in keeping with their character.
  
  A good piece of furniture is apt to prove some-
  what costly at times in the expenditure entailed
  by living up to it. A Louis XVI. cabinet, for
  instance, will demand that not only the rest of
  the furniture in the room but also the decora-
  tion be in the same style. It seems superfluous
  to remark that no woman of taste would allow
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  35
  
  
  such a piece of fiirniture to be placed in a room
  furniBhed in accordance with the early Victorian
  tradition.
  
  All women should have at least an elementary
  knowledge of the chai-acteristics of the various
  styles of fm-niture belonging to the famoixs
  epochs. Without this knowledge they are apt
  to make somewhat glaring errors when attempt-
  ing to fvirnish their rooms in accordance with any
  particular period. The study of the evolution
  of furniture has a fascination peculiarly its own.
  Through it the manners and customs of our
  forefathers may be traced step by step from the
  time when primitive man first began to carve
  out of wood or stone those crude implements
  suited to his needs, through the centuries of
  progression marked by the Gothic, Tudor,
  Jacobean and Georgian periods to the Victorian
  era (which last, strangely enough, marked a time
  of positive decadence in the art of furniture
  designs), and thence to the present day.
  
  The connoisseur does not need to concern
  herself with the styles of furniture which pre-
  vailed prior to the foxirteenth century, however.
  The needs of our ancestors in those days were
  too simple for the evolution of any really
  characteristic style, which could be adapted to
  present-day needs. The real evolution of
  artistic furniture in this country began with the
  Tudor period. Many Italian craftsmen, settled
  m England dtiring Henry VIII. 's reign, and the
  influence of the Italian Renaissance has left its
  mark upon the furniture of the period. The
  furniture of the " Jacobean " period has a
  dignity all its own. Many people like their
  dining-rooms ftirnished in this particular style,
  which prevailed during the reign of James I.,
  1603 - until the end of the reign of James II.,
  1685. It was during the eighteenth century,
  however, that English fvtrniture reached its
  greatest degree of artibcic perfection, and it is
  with this period, therefore, that collectors are
  most concerned. It gave birth to such artist-
  craftsmen as Chippendale, Adam, Hepplewhite,
  and Sheraton, whose names will ever live in the
  annals of furniture design. Contemporaneous
  with these famous English styles were the
  French styles of Louis XV., Louis XVI., the
  Directoire, and the First Enapire.
  
  As has been already remarked, during the
  Victorian era art in furniture went through
  a marked decadence. The furniture of this
  recent period is marked by its stiffness, un-
  gainliness, and general air of discomfort. It
  may safely be said that connoisseurs of the
  future will not readily advocate a revival of the
  Victorian style.
  
  Those who wish to make a study of the char-
  acteristics of the best periods in furniture cannot
  do better than read some good books upon the
  subject. Mr. Edwin Foley, in his book entitled
  " Decorative Furniture," traces the evolution
  of artistic furniture from the most remote times.
  
  
  explaining the main characteristics which dis-
  tinguish the art of each particular period. Much
  valuable assistance is given to the collector by
  the many coloured illustrations of the various
  styles wliich are to be found throughout the
  book. She should also make a point of visiting
  museums and other places where specimens of
  old furniture may be seen ; such as the Victoria
  and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London ;
  the Royal Scottish Miiseum, Edinbixrgh, and the
  Dublin Museum. For French decorative furni-
  ture in particular the Jones Collection, South
  Kensington Museum and the Wallace Collection,
  Hertford House, Manchester Square, should be
  visited.
  
  SOME FURNISHING ESTIMATES
  
  Tlie following Hsts, giving suggestions in
  regard to the best way of spending two fairly
  representative sums of money on the furnishing
  of a small house or flat, will prove useful to the
  young couple who are about to furnish a home,
  and who reqtiire guidance not only as to the
  furniture to be purchased, but also in regard
  to the cost of the various articles. The first
  Ust of this has been compiled by Messrs. Maple
  in connection with a ninety guinea model flat
  displayed at their show-rooms. The second
  scheme for furnishing a house for £300 has also
  been largely compiled from information obtained
  from the same firm -
  
  THE NINETY GUINEA FLAT
  
  The sum of ninety guineas is apportioned
  amongst the various rooms as follows : -
  
  £ s. d
  
  Dining-room 1853
  
  Drawing-room 22 17 6
  
  Bedroom 20 19 1
  
  Servant's room .4 3 3
  
  Bath-room 17 3
  
  Hall 343
  
  Kitchen . 2 1 5i
  
  Linens, blankets, &c 7 8 4
  
  China and glass 3 6 7i
  
  Electro-plate and cutlery .... 5 5 2
  Ironmongery 6 1 10
  
  £94 10 0
  
  
  The following lists give detailed expenditure
  for the various rooms : -
  
  DINING-ROOM
  
  £ 8. d.
  Seamless tapestry carpet (12 ft. by
  
  9 ft.) 266
  
  Linoleum surround (say) 8 yds. at
  
  Is. ip 9 0
  
  2 pairs casement curtains with rod
  
  and fittings 17 6
  
  Qoth table-cover ....... 10 0
  
  Black curb fender ...,,,. 76
  
  
  36
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  £ 8. d.
  
  Set of fire-irons 4 6
  
  Coal-sooop 10 0
  
  Fumed oak sideboard 4 8 6
  
  Dining-table (3 ft. 6 in. by 6 ft.) ..250
  
  1 Elbow-chair with rush seat ... 1 2 6
  4 Small chairs with rush scat at
  
  13s. 9d. 2 15 0
  
  Oak side-table 17 6
  
  1 Lounge easy-chair 13 6
  
  Hearth-rug 8 3
  
  
  £18 5 3
  
  
  Dra wing-Room
  
  , . £ 8. d.
  
  Axrmnstor pile carpet (12 ft. by 9 ft.) 4 4 0
  Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at
  
  Is. l^d 11 3
  
  2 pairs of Mapleton damask curtains
  
  with rods and fittings .... 1 6 U
  
  Curb fender ... 76
  
  Set of fire-irons 4 6
  
  Brass coal-scoop 10 0
  
  2 " Neston " easy-chairs upholstered
  
  in tapestry at 22s. 6d 2 5 0
  
  1 " Neston " settee upholstered in
  
  tapestry 1 18 6
  
  1 Arm-chair with tapestry seat ..110
  
  2 Small chairs with tapestry seat at
  
  13s. 9d 17 6
  
  Inlaid mahogany cabinet 4 15 0
  
  Inlaid mahogany centre table . . . 1 12 6
  
  Inlaid mahogany occasional table . . 9 9
  
  Mahoganj' escritoire 2 5 0
  
  
  £22 17 6
  
  
  Bedroom
  
  £ 8. d.
  Felt carpet planned to room (say) 12
  
  yds. at 38. 9d. 2 5 0
  
  2 pairs cretonne casement curtains with
  
  rods and fittings 18 4
  
  Curb fender 7 6
  
  Set of fire-irons 4 6
  
  4 ft. 6 ins. Bedstead, white and brass .18 9
  
  Wire-woven mattress 10 6
  
  Sanitary pad 5 9
  
  Extra thick wool mattress .... 1 1 1 6
  
  Feather bolster 10 0
  
  2 Pillows at 6s. 9d. . . . [ [ . * 13 q
  Decorated white bedroom suite, com-
  prising dressing-chest with jewel
  drawers, double wash-stand, ward-
  robe, bevel plate glass mirror,
  pedestal cupboard, towel-horse,
  
  and 2 chairs . 10 5 0
  
  Double set toilet ware 13 6
  
  Easy-chair 12 9
  
  Bed furniture 12 6
  
  
  £20 19 1
  
  
  Servakt's Bedroom
  
  Linoleum for covering floor .... 99
  
  Bedside rug ^ 3 q
  
  2 ft. 6 in. iron bedstead and wire mat-
  tress, wool mattress, pad bolster,
  and pillow complete .... 1 7 9
  
  Japanned oak wash-stand .... 53
  
  Simple set of toilet ware 3 6
  
  Japanned oak chest of drawers with
  
  dressing-glass fixed 15 6
  
  Cane -seated chair 2 6
  
  Japanned oak towel-rail 19
  
  Fender * 3 6
  
  
  £4 3 3
  
  
  Bath-Room
  
  Covering floor with linoleimi . . .
  
  Cane-seated chair
  
  1 pair casement curtains with rod and
  
  fittings
  
  Bath-mat ....
  
  
  8. d.
  4 6
  3 6
  
  
  17 3
  
  
  Hall
  
  1 pair casement curtains with rod and
  
  fittings
  
  Fumed oak umbrella-stand .
  Fumed oak hat-rack ....
  Linoleum for covering floor (say)
  
  Black fender
  
  Fumed oak settee . .
  
  
  6
  
  0
  
  15
  
  0
  
  6
  
  6
  
  11
  
  3
  
  4
  
  6
  
  1
  
  0
  
  £3 4 3
  
  
  Kitchen
  
  
  Id.
  
  
  16| yds. linoleum at Is
  4 ft. kitchen table . . .
  2 Kitchen chairs at 2s. lOd
  Kitchen fender ....
  
  
  d.
  3
  6
  
  
  £2 0 11
  
  
  Linens, Blankets, &c.
  
  1 pair blankets (84 by 104 in.) .
  
  1 Under-blanket
  
  1 White quilt [ ]
  
  1 Down quilt
  
  2 pairs cotton sheets at 10s. 6d.
  2 pairs pillow-cases at 2s. 4d. .
  
  1 pair blankets for servant's bed .
  1 Under-blanket
  
  1 Coloured quilt
  
  2 pairs cotton sheets at 58. 1 Id.
  
  1 pair pillow-cases
  
  
  £ 8. d.
  
  17 9
  
  4 6
  
  12 9
  
  17 6
  
  1 1 0
  
  4 8
  
  8 11
  
  2 11
  
  3 11
  11 10
  
  1 11
  
  
  THE HOUSE
  
  
  37
  
  
  2 Damask table-cloths (2 J by 2 yds.; £ s. d.
  
  at 5s. Ud 11 10
  
  6 Napkins for 3 9
  
  6 Huckaback towels for 4 9
  
  3 Bath towels at Is. lid 3 4^
  
  6 Servants' towels at 6^d 3 5
  
  6 Tea-cloths for 2 11
  
  6 Glass-clotlis for 2 6
  
  6 Dusters for 2 0
  
  2 Kitchen table-cloths at Is. ll^d. , 3 11
  
  2 Roller towels at Is. l|d 2 3
  
  
  £7 8 4i
  
  
  Cutlery
  
  6 Table knives for
  
  6 Small knives for
  
  1 pair meat-carvers
  
  1 pair game-carvers
  
  1 Steel
  
  6 Electro-plated table forks for .
  
  6 Electro-plated dessert forks for .
  4 Electro-plated table spoons for .
  6 Electro-plated dessert spoons for
  6 Electro -plated tea spoonB for . . .
  
  2 Egg spoons
  
  1 Butter knife
  
  1 pair sugar tongs
  
  2 Electro-plated sauce ladles at 2s. 6d.
  
  1 Electro-plated cruet with mustard
  
  spoon
  
  2 Electro-plated salt spoons at 9d. .
  Electro -plated teapot
  
  
  6
  
  3
  
  5
  
  3
  
  4
  
  9
  
  4
  
  9
  
  2
  
  0
  
  11
  
  3
  
  8
  
  3
  
  7
  
  6
  
  8
  
  3
  
  5
  
  3
  
  1
  
  8
  
  2
  
  6
  
  2
  
  0
  
  5
  
  0
  
  13
  
  G
  
  1
  
  6
  
  15
  
  6
  
  £5 5 2
  
  
  China and Glass
  
  £ s. d.
  
  Dinner service for six persons . . 16 0
  Tea and breakfast service for six
  
  persons 120
  
  Service of glass for 6 persons, viz. : 6
  port glasses, 6 tumblers, 6 sherry
  
  glasses, 2 decanters complete . 9 3
  
  Water-bottles and glass for bedroom 1 5
  
  Water-bottles and glass for servant . 10
  
  China and glass jor kitchen use -
  
  6 Plates, assorted sizes .... 16
  
  1 Vegetable^ dish 2 3
  
  3 Dishes for 2 9
  
  1 Sauce boat 6
  
  2 Breakfast cups and saucers at
  
  5^d 11
  
  2 Plates at 3d 6
  
  1 Sugar basin 4
  
  I Milk jug 7
  
  1 Salt cellar 3^
  
  2 Tumblers 5
  
  1 Set of 3 jugs 13
  
  2 Pie dishes 16
  
  
  2 Pudding bowls
  
  1 Teapot 6d., 2 store jars for Is. 5d.
  1 Bread pan
  
  
  a. d.
  1 2
  1 11
  1 3
  
  
  £3 6 7J
  
  
  Ironmongery {Kitchen List)
  
  1 Bath (galvanised)
  
  1 Bowl (hand)
  
  1 Bread grater
  
  1 Cake tin
  
  1 Chopping board
  
  1 Clothes horse
  
  1 Coal scuttle
  
  1 Coffee canister
  
  1 Coffee pot
  
  1 Corkscrew
  
  1 Colander
  
  1 Set of dish mats
  
  3 Dish covers : 1 each, 3s. 6d., 63. 3d.,
  
  7s
  
  1 Dvist pan o . .
  
  1 Egg slice
  
  1 Egg whisk
  
  1 Fish kettle
  
  1 Fish slice
  
  2 Iron spoons for ........
  
  3 Tea spoons , .
  
  1 Set steps
  
  1 Slop-pail
  
  1 Tea canister
  
  1 Tea tray
  
  1 Tin-opener " . .
  
  1 Toasting fork
  
  1 Glass tub (pulp) .......
  
  1 Nutmeg grater
  
  1 Gravy strainer
  
  1 Housemaid's box
  
  1 Tin kettle
  
  1 Iron kettle .........
  
  1 Knife board
  
  1 Knife tray
  
  3 Knives and forks (table) ....
  
  1 Galvanised pail
  
  2 Flat irons for
  
  1 Flat iron stand
  
  1 Flour dredger
  
  1 Flotu" tub
  
  1 Frying pan
  
  1 Funnel
  
  1 Paste board .
  
  1 dozen patty pans .......
  
  1 Pepperbox
  
  1 Plate basket
  
  2 Plate leathers
  
  1 I^tchen poker
  
  1 Rolling pin
  
  1 Salt box
  
  3 Iron saucepans, 1 each. Is. 4d., Is. 9d.,
  
  2s. 9d
  
  
  ".
  
  d.
  
  2
  
  6
  
  1
  
  0
  
  7
  
  8
  
  1
  
  4
  
  5
  
  0
  
  1
  
  11
  
  1
  
  0
  
  1
  
  9
  
  6
  
  1
  
  0
  
  1
  
  11
  
  16
  
  9
  
  1
  
  0
  
  8
  
  6
  
  3
  
  3
  
  8
  
  6
  
  7
  
  7
  
  0
  
  3
  
  0
  
  1
  
  3
  
  2
  
  9
  
  6
  
  6
  
  2
  
  6
  
  2
  
  1
  
  2
  
  2
  
  9
  
  1
  
  2
  
  3
  
  0
  
  7
  
  1
  
  8
  
  2
  
  9
  
  10
  
  1
  
  6
  
  6
  
  6
  
  2
  
  9
  
  1
  
  0
  
  3
  
  2
  
  3
  
  4
  
  4
  
  3
  
  0
  
  2
  
  0
  
  9
  
  6
  
  1
  
  9
  
  6 10
  
  
  38
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  £ 8. d.
  
  
  1 Enamelled saucepan 1
  
  1 Set skewers
  
  1 Soap-dish
  
  1 Towel roller and brackets .... 1
  
  1 Wire sieve
  
  3 Wood spoons
  
  Brushes-
  
  1 Hair banister brush 1
  
  1 WTiisk brush 1
  
  1 Long hair broom 2
  
  1 Carpet broom 2
  
  1 Dusting brush 1
  
  1 Nail brush
  
  1 Scrubbing brush 1
  
  1 Bass scrubbing brush
  
  2 Plate brushes for 1
  
  1 Set shoe brushes 2
  
  1 Set stove brushes 2
  
  1 Sweep's brush
  
  
  £6 1 10
  
  
  £300 HOUSE
  Summary
  
  £ a. d.
  
  Hall 9 13 3
  
  Dining-room 55 4 0
  
  Drawing-room (with piano) . . . . 84 13 3
  
  Moming-room 18 14 11
  
  Best bedroom 32 16 8
  
  Spare bedi-oom 19 8 5
  
  2nd spare bedroom 14 17 11
  
  Servants' bedroom 9 13 0
  
  Kitchen 4 7 2^
  
  Bath-room 1 14 3
  
  Plate and cutlery 9 0 0
  
  Linen and blankets 17 18 5
  
  China and glass 8 0 0
  
  Ironmongery and extra fittings . . 10 0 0
  
  £296 1 3^
  
  This leaves a balance of £3, ISs. 8^d., wliich
  will go towards any extra expenditvu-e upon
  clocks, cushions, portidres, and fancy table-
  covers which have not been included in our
  lists.
  
  DETAILED LISTS
  
  
  Haxl
  
  £
  18 yds. stair and landing carpet at
  
  4fl 3
  
  2 doz. rods, eyes and pins
  
  Covering floor with linoleum (say) 12
  
  yds. at Is. 6d
  
  Hat"ack
  
  Fumed oak settle 1
  
  
  d.
  
  
  12
  
  0
  
  16
  
  0
  
  18
  
  0
  
  8
  
  6
  
  1
  
  0
  
  Fumed oak umbrella-stand ....
  
  Rug
  
  1 pair casement curtains with rod and
  
  fittings
  
  Fender
  
  
  £ s.
  1 8
  
  
  17 6
  
  
  £9 13 3
  
  
  DiNEsra-RooM
  
  £ s. d.
  Axminster pile carpet 12 ft. by 12 ft. .040
  Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at
  
  Is. lid. 13 6
  
  2 pairs casement ciu-tains with rod and
  
  fittings .136
  
  Table-cover 15 0
  
  Pierced steel fender 110
  
  Set of fire-irons 9 0
  
  Coal-scoop 110
  
  Mahogany sideboard 8 17 G
  
  Mahogany 2-tier serving-table ... 2 10 0
  
  Dining-table 4 12 6
  
  6 mahogany small chairs upholstered
  
  in morocco at 22s. 6d 6 15 0
  
  Easy -chair upholstered in tapestry .440
  Easy-chair upholstered in tapestry .350
  Mahogany occasional table . . . . Ill 6
  
  Mahogany escritoire 4 116
  
  Mahogany book-case 7 10 0
  
  £55 4 0
  
  
  MOBNINQ-ROOM
  
  £ a. d.
  Seamless tapestry square carpet 12 ft.
  
  by 9 ft 2 6 6
  
  Linoleum surround 9 0
  
  2 pairs curtains with rod and fittings . 17 6
  
  Ciirb fender 7 6
  
  Set of fire-irons 10 0
  
  Coal-scoop 5 0
  
  4 small rush-seated fumed oak chairs
  
  at 13s. 9d. each 2 15 0
  
  Fumed oak sideboard 4 8 6
  
  Easy-chair 150
  
  Hearth-rug 8 3
  
  Gate-leg table 2 0 0
  
  Sectional book -case 3 2 8
  
  £18 14 11
  
  
  Drawing-Room
  
  £ a. d.
  Axminster pile carpet 10 ft. 6 ins. by
  
  9 ft 4
  
  Felt surroimd (say) 12 yds. at Ss. 9d. . 2
  
  Pierced fender 1
  
  Set of fire-irons
  
  Brass coal-scoop
  
  2 pairs casement curtains with rod and
  
  fittings 13 6
  
  
  4
  
  0
  
  S
  
  0
  
  1
  
  0
  
  12
  
  0
  
  11
  
  0
  
  THE HOU^E
  
  
  39
  
  
  Inlaid mahogany Sheraton cabinet .
  Inlaid mahogany writing ....
  
  Piano 1.* '
  
  Piano-stool with velvet cushion . •
  Inlaid mahogany circular table . . •
  Settee upholstered in tapestry . • ■
  
  Easy-chair № ' . ' ' '
  
  1 Inlaid mahogany elbow-chair . . .
  4 Inlaid mahogany small chairs at
  
  223. 6d
  
  1 Inlaid mahogany occasional table .
  
  Hearth-rug
  
  Screen
  
  
  8 17
  
  G
  
  2 17
  
  6
  
  40 0
  
  0
  
  1 2
  
  6
  
  2 5
  
  0
  
  5 7
  
  6
  
  2 12
  
  0
  
  1 17
  
  6
  
  4 10
  
  0
  
  1 6
  
  9
  
  18
  
  0
  
  3 2
  
  6
  
  Kitchen
  
  Covering floor with linoleum
  4 ft. kitchen table ....
  2 Kitchen chairs at 6s. 6d. .
  1 Windsor chair ....
  1 Carpet deck-chair . . •
  
  Alarm clock
  
  Coal hod
  
  Strong shovel
  
  Kitchen poker ....
  Bug
  
  
  £84 13 3
  
  
  £ 8. d.
  
  
  5
  17
  13
  8
  6
  5
  2
  2
  1
  5
  
  
  0
  9
  0
  0
  6
  6
  2
  
  H
  
  6
  6
  
  
  £4 7 2*
  
  
  Bath-Room
  
  Covering floor with Unoleum . . •
  
  Cane-seated chair
  
  Glass with drawer for brush and comb
  
  Bath rack
  
  Bath mat
  
  
  10
  3
  
  11
  5
  3
  
  
  d.
  0
  6
  6
  6
  9
  
  
  £1 14 3
  
  Bedroom
  w 12 ft. . .
  
  £ 8. d.
  . 3 12 0
  
  Double set of toilet ware ....
  
  Easy-chair . 12
  
  Hearth-rug
  
  Occasional table •
  
  1 set of bed draperies to match curtains
  
  Oval Sheraton mirror
  
  Screen
  
  Linen basket
  
  £32
  
  
  Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at
  Is. Hd
  
  Curb fender
  
  Set of fire-irons
  
  2 pairs casement curtains with rod and
  fittings 1
  
  4 ft. 6 in. brass bedstead ^
  
  Wire-woven mattress
  
  Sanitary pad
  
  Hair mattress -
  
  Feather bolster
  
  2 Pillows • • ■
  
  Inlaid mahogany bedroom suite, com-
  prising : - Wardrobe, dressing-
  chest with glass, washstand fitted
  with cupboard, and towel -rail and
  two chairs 12
  
  
  7
  
  6
  
  4
  
  6
  
  0
  
  0
  
  5
  
  6
  
  10
  
  6
  
  5
  
  9
  
  3
  
  9
  
  10
  
  0
  
  18
  
  0
  
  Spare Bedroom
  
  Caledon carpet 12 ft. by 9 ft. . . .
  
  Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at
  
  Is. Id. •
  
  2 pairs Mapleton damask ciirtains with
  
  rod and fittings
  
  1 set of bed draperies to match . . .
  
  Fender
  
  Set of fire-irons
  
  3 ft. White and brass bedstead . . .
  
  Wire-woven mattress
  
  Sanitary pad
  
  Hair mattress
  
  Bolster
  
  Feather piUow
  
  White bedroom suite, comprising : -
  
  Wardrobe, dressing-chest, with
  glass, washstand fitted with towel -
  rail and 2 chairs
  
  Single set toilet ware
  
  Hearth-rug
  
  Easy-chair
  
  Occasional table
  
  Linen basket
  
  
  Second Spare Bedroom
  
  £
  
  Fumed oak bedstead with wire spring
  mattress 2
  
  Sanitary pad
  
  Hair mattress 1
  
  Bolster
  
  Feather pillow * ' *
  
  Fumed oak smte comprising : - 2 ft.
  6 ins. wardrobe, 2ft. 6 ins. dressing-
  table, washstand, and one chair .
  
  Oak shaving-stand
  
  Easy-chair
  
  Set of toilet ware •
  
  2 pairs casement cm-tains with rod and
  fittings
  
  Clothes-basket
  
  Linoleum to cover floor (12 by 9) . .
  
  2 Rugs at 73. 6d. each
  
  
  £
  
  a.
  
  d.
  
  2
  
  14
  
  0
  
  10
  
  10
  
  1
  
  0
  
  U
  
  17
  
  6
  
  7
  
  6
  
  4
  
  6
  
  1
  
  5
  
  0
  
  7
  
  9
  
  3
  
  9
  
  1
  
  7
  
  6
  
  6
  
  0
  
  9 0
  
  
  7
  
  le
  
  0
  
  7
  
  11
  
  8
  
  9
  
  12
  
  9
  
  9
  
  9
  
  5
  
  11
  
  £19
  
  8
  
  5
  
  8. d.
  
  4 9
  
  3 9
  
  7 6
  
  6 0
  
  9 0
  
  
  15 6
  
  
  40
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Servants' Bkdroom (2 7naid8)
  
  £ s. d.
  Covering floor with linoleum ... 99
  
  2 Bedside rugs GO
  
  Two 2 ft. 0 ins, iron bedsteads and
  wire mattresses, wool mattresses,
  pads, Ijolsters, and pillows com-
  plete at £1, 73. 9d. each ... 2 15 6
  2 Painted chests of drawers at £1,
  
  9s. 6d. each 2 19 0
  
  2 Painted washstands at 12s. 6d. . . 1 5 0
  2 Painted dressing-glasses at 4a. 6d.
  
  each 8 9
  
  2 Painted chairs at 4s. 3d. each . . 8 6
  
  Double set of toilet ware 7 0
  
  Fender 3 6
  
  1 pair casement curtains with rod and
  
  fittings 10 0
  
  £9 13 0
  
  
  (For Ironmongery, see p. 37.)
  
  (For China and Glass, see p. 37.)
  
  (For Electro-plate and Cutlery, see p. 37.)
  
  
  LETTING A FURNISHED HOUSE
  
  Speaking generally, it is unad\asable to let a
  well -furnished house. To do so is to place your
  precious household goods at the mercy of
  strangers, who will not appreciate them or care
  for them as you do. Dilapidations and break-
  ages of various kinds are bound to occur, and
  even if their money value is received, there
  are some things that cannot be replaced in the
  owner's estimation.
  
  Very often, however, a woman finds it ab-
  solutely necessary to let her house. She may
  be called abroad, and might not care to leave
  the house shut up or in charge of a caretaker.
  Again, the finances for the annual holiday might
  depend to a great extent upon her abiUty
  
  
  to let it. In these circumstances, therefore,
  she must take the utmost precautions to ensure
  that it is lot to careful tenants. Tlie house
  should bo put in the hands of a good agent,
  who will see that all the formalities in regard
  to suitable references from the prospective
  tenant are proceeded with, and who can make
  judicious inquiries apart from these references.
  
  The agent will charge a commission upon the
  amount received for rental, together with fees
  for drawing up agreement and taking inventory.
  An inventory has always to be taken of every
  piece of furniture, plate, and linen left in the
  house. Wliere the house is large it may some-
  times take a whole day to go over this carefully.
  The mistress of the houso should see that this
  important piece of work is properly done, draw-
  ing the agent's attention particularly to articles
  she wishes to be carefully noted.
  
  It is usual to leave a certain small supply
  of plate and linen ; but the bulk of this with
  other cherished articles should be locked care-
  fully away. A very large cupboard or a room,
  sometimes both, should be reserved for locking-
  up piorposes, and the agent should see that the
  doors of these are carefully sealed.
  
  If the furniture is very good, never let the
  house to people with young children, as these
  are often responsible for a great deal of damage.
  Dogs, if not under proper control, also often
  cause a large amount of wear and tear. It is
  as well to have a clause inserted in the agree-
  ment that no dogs must be kept without the
  landlord's consent. This consent shovild not,
  however, be unreasonably withheld. Many people
  would not dream of taking a house without
  taking their pets with them. Let it be impressed
  upon the tenants, therefore, that they will be
  held responsible for any additional wear end tear
  which the keeping of these pets might entail.
  
  Before letting the house it should be thor-
  oughly cleaned from cellar to attic, and the
  chimneys should be swept. The tenant should
  also leave it as clean in every way as when he
  (or she) took up the tenancy.
  
  
  QUARTER DAYS
  
  
  English
  
  Lady Day Mar. 25
  
  Midsummer June 24
  
  Michaelmas 1 Sep. 29
  
  Christmas Dec. 25
  
  
  Scotch
  
  Candlemas Feb. 2
  
  Whitsuntide May 15
  
  Lammas Aug. 1
  
  Martinmas Nov. 11
  
  
  Half-Quarter Days
  Feb. 8, May 9, Aug. 11, and Nov. 11.
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  There is an old and very true saying that " knowledge is power." Nowhere does this maxim
  more fittingly apply than in the case of the woman who is thoroughly acquainted with every
  detail of the work of the home, and knows how the various domestic duties can be most efficiently
  and, at the same time, most expeditiously performed.
  
  Even to the woman who is so comfortably endowed with this world's goods that she can
  afford to maintain a staff of highly trained servants at liberal wages, a knowledge of house-
  wifery is an invaluable asset. Then hers must be the brain to supervise and direct the smooth
  running of the household machinery, to see that each servant performs conscientiously and efficiently
  the work allotted to her, that the whole establishment is maintained in that perfect working order
  which is a typical feature of the good housewife's regime.
  
  In this section each phase of the servant question is carefully considered. The duties of the
  mistre&s in regard to the treatment and management of servants and the proper organisation and
  supervision of their work are clearly outlined, as are also the duties of each servant in accordance
  with the number kept. Useful information is also included in regard to the engagement of servants,
  prevailing scale of wages, allowances and hoHdays.
  
  
  DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS
  
  Knowledge of Housewifery Advisable. - Like
  every other profession the profession of home-
  making reqtiires a certain amount of training
  and apprenticeship. It is quite a mistaken
  notion to think that housewifery comes in-
  stinctively and naturally to every woman, and
  that the woman who is unfitted for any other
  career in life can stay at home and " keep house."
  Domestic skill can oni^' be acquired by training.
  
  Whatever other calling a girl or woman may
  choose to select, be it ntu-sing, teacliing, medi-
  cine, art, or any other of the professions open to
  women, both time and money are expended in
  order to qualify her for her career. Why should
  housekeeping be left out when training in this
  is just as essential, seeing that the happiness and
  comfort of so many will depend upon her fulfilling
  her duties in an intelligent manner ? A woman
  who has no knowledge of the right way to
  manage a house has no more right to marry and
  be responsible for her husband's worldly goods
  than a man would have to accept a post the
  duties of which he was qiiite ignorant.
  
  A servant is quick to grasp the fact when her
  mistress is not versed in the arts of domestic
  science, and quicker still to take advantage of
  the ignorance thus displayed. She knows that
  there is no trained eye to detect flaws in her
  work ; that a room half dusted will seldom
  evoke a protest - a table carelessly or slovenly
  laid will as often as not pass unheeded. The
  mistress will be made to suffer in many little
  
  
  ways for her ignorance in respect to house-
  hold duties until by bitter experience she will
  awaken to the realisation of the fact that know-
  ledge is indeed power, and strive to learn what
  she should have known when she first began to
  reign as mistress of her own home.
  
  To the girl who is destined to begin married
  life in such humble circumstances that she will
  not be able to afford to keep even a general
  servant, ignorance of the rules of household
  work is apt to become something in the nature
  of a calamity. An untidy, ill-kept home, to
  say nothing of iU-cooked meals, is not conducive
  to the good temper or cheerfulness of a husband,
  more especially when he comes home after a
  hard day's work to find chaos reigning supreme,
  and that atmosphere of discomfort which few can
  analyse, and only those who have experienced
  it can understand. Indeed, it may be said that
  many a little " rift within the lute " has been
  occasioned by nothing less prosaic than the
  lamentable ignorance of her household duties
  displayed by the young wife.
  
  Training in housekeeping may be acquired in
  different ways. Firstly, a young girl may be
  trained in her own home under a good mother
  or guardian, and this is the best training of all.
  The training may be given gradually tlu"Oughout
  early life by allotting her little home duties to
  perform and teaching her the importance of the
  small things on which the comfort of the home
  depends. Or, if the greater part of the girl's
  life has been spent away from home in a boarding-
  school, then the training may be given in a more
  
  
  42
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  concentrated form when the school life is over.
  The practical nature of a real home training is
  of much greater value them any isolated courses
  of lessons, which may be taken later on in life.
  Training can also be swxjuired at one of the
  numerous schools of Domestic Science now
  estabUshed in vai'ious parts of the countrj%
  and if only sufficient time is allowed this is
  another excellent way of learning various
  branches of household routine. Finally, know-
  ledge can be gained by experience, but this un-
  fortunately may be at the expense of needless
  worry and anxiety not only to oneself, but to the
  other members of the household as well.
  
  Modern housekeeping requires an expert and
  not an ignoramus, and there should be nothing
  degrading about having to look to the ways of
  one's household. In fact, it will generally be
  found that the better educated and the more
  intelligent a woman is, the higher will be her
  housekeeping capacities. A sound knowledge
  of household details does not tie one more to
  one's own four walls, but it enables one to get
  the best results with the least expenditure of
  time and energy.
  
  Oversight and Inspection. - ^It is the duty of
  the mistress to see that her house is kept as
  spotlessly clean as it is possible to make it.
  Etich part must receive her attention, not only
  the principal rooms of the house, such as the
  sitting-rooms and bedrooms, but the kitchen,
  scullery and servants' bedrooms as well.
  
  She must also see that food is neither wasted
  nor thrown away. This will necessitate a daily
  visit to the larder (see p. 101), and even the
  scrap-pail and dust-bin must not escape her
  notice. Constant watchfulness in this respect
  is all-important, and if a mistress thorouglily
  understands what ought to be, she will detect
  waste from the beginning and be able to put it
  right.
  
  Sinks and lavatories must also be included in
  the tour of inspection, and if there is any un-
  pleasant smell it must be seen to at once.
  
  It will also be the duty of the mistress to see
  that the locking up of the house at night is
  attended to - that all low windows and doors
  of unused rooms are locked and back and front
  doors bolted. She must see that silver is care-
  fully put away, and that all fires are in a safe
  condition to leave.
  
  Order and Arrangement. - The wheels of
  domestic mewliinery will not run smoothly
  unless the mistress is orderly and methodical
  in all her arrangements.
  
  She must first of all have a clear idea of what
  she wishes to have done, and then make her
  plan accordingly, so apportioning the work
  among the different workers that for each detail
  some one person is responsible. There must
  be a fair division of labour, so that too much
  does not fall to one person and not su£Scient
  to auotlier.
  
  
  There must also be a proper time for every-
  tliing and everything should be done in its time.
  Punctuality and method will contribute essen-
  tially to the comfort of the home, and if house-
  hold work is systematised there will be little
  fear of friction or neglect.
  
  It is impossible to draw out a model plan which
  will suit the requirements of all households, so
  much depends upon the size of the house, the
  number of the family, the style of living, and the
  means at disposal ; it therefore rests with each
  mistress to devise her own particular working
  scheme. She may not always succeed in
  attaining her ideal, but she can at least have
  a certain standard at which she aims and
  which she does her best to attain. This amount
  of method must not prevent departure from
  routine should circumstances require it. It
  must always be remembered that rules are made
  for people not people for rules, and the mistake
  must not be made of subordinating everything
  to the keeping of the manage.
  
  If there is one thing worse than an uncom-
  fortable and disorderly home, it is the house-
  hold where order and system are carried to such
  a pitch that all those pleasantly diverting pur-
  suits, which tend at times to upset the general
  arrangement of things, are reduced to a nunimuin
  in order to avoid unnecessary work, to save the
  carpets, keep the furniture in good condition,
  or something else of a like nature. This is to
  make a desert of a home.
  
  Order and system shovild be silent factors
  which do not obtrude themselves, necessities
  which are best kept out of sight, but which act
  none the less as drops of oil on the machinery
  of domestic routine.
  
  Daily Duties. - ^The duties of the mistress of a
  household are very numerous and very varied,
  and it will be well for her to try to draw out a
  plan and time-table of her own daily routine.
  
  The extent of her duties will naturally depend
  upon her income, the staff of servants at her
  disposal, and the size of her household.
  
  To house the members of her household in
  comfort and health, to feed them properly and
  nurse them in sickness, to keep household
  accounts, to engage servants and allot to tach
  their proper share of work, and to do the work
  herself when occeision requires, are amorig a
  few of the duties which ^v^ll rest upon her
  shoulders.
  
  Details of the variovis branches of work for
  which she will be responsible will bo found
  under their respective headings, such as The
  House, The Table, Nursing, &c., and it is hoped
  that the instructions there given will prove
  helpful to the woman who desires to be a real
  home-maker.
  
  The Duty of Cheerfulness. - Cheerfulness is one
  of the most valuable of possessions ; it is really
  the sunshine of life, the promoter of health and
  happiness. To be able to keep up the spirits
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  43
  
  
  of those around us not only adds to the bright-
  ness of the home, but helps to make all duties
  comparatively light and easy. It is a woman's
  duty to make the life of the home as happy and
  gay as possible, and however depressed she may
  sometimes feel she ought to struggle against the
  feeUng and not damp the spirits of those around
  her.
  
  No one can be more trying than the person
  who continually gives way to low spirits, going
  about with a martyr -like expression, and making
  a habit of airing her grievances at every meal
  or family gathering. Such a person is a constant
  source of irritation to the other members of the
  household.
  
  Unfortunately, it is often upon the home-
  loving woman that the little worries, the small
  contretemps of daily life weigh most heavily.
  She takes it too much to heart if her house is
  not so spotlessly clean as she would like, or if
  her well -planned arrangements have been upset,
  and she finds it difficult to look at things from a
  right perspective.
  
  It requires some strength of will to grapple
  against this spirit of worrpng and getting
  depressed, but the home-maker ought to think
  of others before herself and do her utmost to
  keep these Uttle troubles in the background.
  
  Health and happiness are a thousand times
  more important than all the spotless homes in
  the world, and to worry over every speck of dust,
  over every broken dish, or such-Uke trifles will
  only result in greater miseries, broken-down
  nerves, and prematiu-e wrinkles and old age.
  
  Home Touches. - ^The duties of the mistress
  are not finished when the routine of household
  work is set agoing and cleanliness and order
  havo been established. The little finishing
  touches, the smal^ elegances, the tasteful
  arrangement, the special provision made for
  individual comfort must come from her or be
  wanting altogether. She must endeavovu" to
  make the rooms as pretty as possible and give
  to them an air of repose and restfulness. Who
  does not know the difference between a room
  that is merely kept in order by a servant and
  one in which the lady of the house takes an
  interest as weU. It is perhaps attention to the
  small tilings of the house that has the most to
  do with the comfort of it, and it is just these
  minor details that require the most thought, as
  they are outside the ordinary routine. If they
  are neglected or forgotten all the cosiness, all
  the home feeling and soothing influence will be
  gone and bare utility alone will remain.
  
  The true home-maker is also one who has the
  intuitive power of divining the tastes and feelings
  of others and who is ever ready to minister to
  their needs. With a ready tact she will put
  herself in the place of those around her, will be
  able to perceive their unspoken worries and
  disappointments, and sympathise with them
  ^vithout remark. She will even be able when
  
  
  occasion arises to shield them from unkindly
  notice or an ungenerous remark. Tact of this
  kind is perhaps innate, and yet much of it may
  be acquired by observation and kindly feeling.
  
  Women are the real home-makers, and it rests
  with them to make the four walls in which they
  live something more than a mere dwelling.
  
  Happy is the woman who can so surround her
  own fireside with the true spirit of home, as to
  make it the spot where the brightest and most
  desirable of everything is to be found, a harbour
  from all outside cares and worries ; she will find
  that not alone to herself, but to those around
  her as well, it has become the best place in the
  world.
  
  Duty towards Herself. - Last but not least, it
  is the duty of the mistress to take care of herself
  and attend to her health. However busy she
  may be, she ought to contrive to have a period
  of leisure and to be out of doors for some time
  every day. Self-sacrifice in the cause of duty
  may become almost a fetich with many women.
  No woman, however, is justified in making
  herself a domestic drudge. She confers no benefit
  upon any one by being a slave to her family and
  to her home. The best house-mistress is un-
  doubtedly the one who allows herself time for
  both relaxation and diversion, realising that with-
  out it not only her health, but also her nerves
  and her temper would suffer in the long run.
  
  The head of the house must also find time for
  her own toilet and make the best of her personal
  appearance. There is no occasion for her to
  wear costly apparel tinless she can afford it,
  but she must always be neat and wear what
  suits her and looks attractive. A lady cannot
  expect servants to look up to her and pay
  attention to their dress if she herself goes about
  in slovenly attire ; in this, as in everything else,
  she must be the example to be copied.
  
  Beyond the Home. - We often hear it said that
  if a woman does her duty in her own home this
  is all that can be expected of her. But this is
  a very narrow view to take of life, and such a
  limited existence is bad not only for the woman
  herself, but for the other members of her house-
  hold as well. In fact, the reason that so many
  heads of famiUes break down in health is because
  they wrap themselves up too much in the cares
  of their own household and worry so much over
  every trifle that it ends in their requiring a rest
  cure or something of the kind.
  
  A woman ought, as a responsible member of
  society, to use her powers to help and encoxu-age
  those beyond the borders of her own home.
  If she did this, even to a small extent, she
  would find that the strain of constantly thinking
  of household affairs was very much relieved,
  and that she gained strength for renewed effort.
  
  Then there are social duties to perform -
  the paying of calls, the giving of entertainments,
  the cultivation of friends, &c., and these are
  claims which cannot be neglected. If we shut
  
  
  44
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  ourselves up from our friends and live entirely
  within our o^m small circle we very soon become
  narrow-minded and end in being forgotten.
  
  ENGAGING SERVANTS
  
  There are several different ways of obtaining
  servants. If one can be heard of by recom-
  mendation, either tlirough friends or through a
  servant in one's employment, tliis is certainly the
  most satisfactory and easiest way, but it is only
  occasionally that one is favoured by such a
  chance.
  
  Then there is the registry oflBce, which may or
  may not be good. While there are offices of
  high standing, where business is done in an
  honest and upright manner, there are many
  others whose deaUngs can by no means be
  rehed upon. As a rule, city registry offices
  are of little use for supplying servants for the
  ordinary middle -class household, as they cater
  more for hotels and other large estabhshments ;
  and while they may have on their boolcs a long
  list of butlers, cooks, lady's-maids, parlour-
  maids, and other specialists in domestic service,
  the cook-general, house-parlourmaid, or general
  rarely seeks for a situation through that channel.
  A good suburban registry office may, on the
  other hand, render valuable assistance, especially
  if a girl belonging to a special district is required.
  
  A well-drawn-up advertisement inserted either
  in a local paper or in a good general newspaper
  with a wide circulation is one of the best means,
  and this method often enables one to have a
  better choice. The wording of the advertise-
  ment must be concise, and at the same time it
  must neither be vague nor misleading. A few
  particulars as to requirements should be given,
  and it should be stated whether the applicant
  is to write or to apply in person and at what
  hour. The following specimen advertisements
  may serve as a guide to those who are inex-
  perienced in this work : -
  
  General Servant. - For small flat, three in
  family, must understand plain cooking, no
  washing. Wages £16-£18. Good health and
  references essential. Apply after 4 p.m.
  
  Cook General. - Wanted immediately, small
  house, four in family. Wages £18-£20. Late
  dinner. Age 25-30. Apply after 7 p.m.
  
  Parlour- maid. - Wanted 1st July, good at silver
  and needlework, a little housework. Age 22-28.
  Wages £20-£25. Three servants. Apply
  
  Young girls trained in domestic work can also
  be obtained from charitable institutions, but
  this plan should not be resorted to unless one
  is prepared to devote a considerable amount of
  time and trouble to their training. Although the
  girls have had training of a kind in their institu-
  tion, they are as a rule quite unaccustomed to
  the nicfties of a private house, and are apt to
  be very uncouth in their manners. There is
  difficulty, too, in getting other servants to take
  
  
  kindly to a girl of this class, and not infrequently
  it proves an unhappy arrangement on both sides.
  
  It is always wise to have a personal interview
  with a ser\'ant before engaging her. This not
  only helps tlio mistress to judge of her character
  by her appearance, but it also enables the girl
  to see the house to which she may be asked to
  come, and gives her a better idea of the work
  that will be expected of her.
  
  The mistress should begin the interview by
  asking the maid some questions as to what
  experience she h£is had, how long she remained
  in her last place, and what reason she had for
  leaving it - what wage she had been hav-ing, and
  what she would now expect. Some inquiries
  should be made regarding the girl's family and
  also whether she has good health or not. Atten-
  tion should also be paid to her personal appear-
  ance, whether she is clean and tidy in her
  person, neatly and suitably dressed, and of a
  prepossessing manner. If the information thus
  obtained is in the main satisfactory, the mistress
  should next give an outline of the duties she
  would expect her to perform, and if after a little
  mutual conversation the arrangement seems
  hkely to suit both parties, details may be
  entered into a little more fully.
  
  A servant must never be engaged under false
  pretences, and it is never a wise plan to make
  things appear better than they really are. It is
  better policy to make it quite clear what will be
  expected in the way of work, so that there may
  be no chance of futiore misunderstanding.
  
  Some information should be given as regards
  the habits and customs of the family, the number
  of servants kept, and the amount of entertaining
  likely to be done. Tlie mistress should also
  state her wishes as regards dress, caps, aprons,
  &c., and whether she will allow visitors or not.
  The question of wages must also be discussed
  and a clear statement must be given as to what
  time will be allowed off and what holiday will
  be given, also what notice must be given
  should either party wish to terminate the
  engagement. If a cook is being engaged, there
  should be a clear understanding about perquisites.
  
  The first conversation in a matter of this kind
  counts for a great deal, and there is nothing like
  making everything clear at the outset.
  
  If a maid has been asked to come some dis-
  tance in order to have this interview, it is usual
  to pay her expenses.
  
  With regard to references, a personal inter-
  view with the maid's last employer should bo
  obtained if possible. There are a few occasions
  on which a written character may be safely
  accepted, but these should be the exception
  and not the rule, and written particulars should
  be accepted with a certain amount of caution.
  Besides, ladies will always give more information
  verbally than they will by writing, and there is
  always something to be gained by seeing the
  house in which the girl has been previously
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  45
  
  
  employed, as this also serves as an index as to
  what has been expected of her in the way of
  service. In fact, it is never a very wise plan
  to take a servant who has been employed in
  a house out of one's own rank in life. For
  instance, a servant who has been employed by
  a lodging-house keeper, by small trades-people,
  or even in an hotel is not suitable for private
  service with gentlefolk, as she would be unac-
  customed to the ways of refined people. Each
  branch of service has its own standard, and
  what may be ideal in one Une of life, falls very
  far below the ideal in another.
  
  During the above interview the mistress should
  ascertain the reasons for the maid leaving her
  place and also her capacity for work. She must
  also make inquiries as to her moral character,
  whether she is clean, neat, good-tempered, also
  whether she has good health and is an early riser.
  
  If the answers to such inquiries prove to be
  satisfactory and the mistress considers the girl
  likely to suit her requirements, the next step
  is to write to the maid or to ask for another in-
  terview in order to fix the date of arrival, and
  to make the final terms of engagement. In
  Scotland and the North there is an old-fashioned
  custom of giving arles or earnest money as a
  token of engagement. The sum of 2s. or 2s. 6d.
  is given to the maid as seahng the contract.
  But this is merely an old custom and not a
  necessity.
  
  The usual custom of hiring a servant is from
  month to month ; this means that they are paid
  once a month and the engagement can be
  terminated on a month's notice. (See Law of
  Master and Servant, p. 377.)
  
  Character-giving. - Although a mistress cannot
  be compelled to give her servant a character, it
  is customary to do so when a girl is leaving her
  employment. The fact of refusing to grant a
  reference would almost imply inability to testify
  to any good qualities in the girl's character,
  and this would be most prejudicial to her future
  career.
  
  A character must not, however, be given
  lightly ; it is essential to state only what is true.
  There must be no exaggeration either of the good
  or of the bad points, and the mistress in search
  of a maid must be considered as much as the
  maid herself.
  
  A mistress has no right to hide some serious
  fault from a desire to give the girl a better
  chance, but she must be absolutely frank and
  impartial in every way. (See Law of Master and
  Servant, p. 377.)
  
  WAGES, ALLOWANCES, AND HOUDAYS
  
  Wages. - The wages of an indoor servant
  should be paid monthly, dating from the day
  the maid enters your service. Or, for con-
  venience sake, where there are several servants,
  a fixed date may be chosen, say the 1st of the
  month as general pay-day. In this case, the
  
  
  odd days when a girl arrives would have to be
  paid for separately. Wages must always be paid
  regularly, and under no circumstances should
  a servant be obhged to wait for her money.
  
  The amount payable as wages varies very
  much in different localities, and one has to
  conform very much to custom in a thing of
  this kind. The wages in town are usually
  higher than those paid in the country.
  
  The following table may serve as an approxi-
  mate guide as to what is usually paid : -
  
  Butler £45- £90
  
  
  Housekeeper
  
  Cook .
  
  Cook-general
  
  Parlour-maid
  
  Housemaid .
  
  House-Parlour-maid
  
  Kitchen-maid
  
  Scullery-maid. .
  
  General Servant .
  
  Lady's-maid
  
  Footman
  
  Valet .
  
  Tweeney
  
  Hall Boy .
  
  
  30- 80
  20- 40
  18- 25
  16- 25
  16- 20
  15- 25
  12- 20
  
  8- 14
  10- 25
  25- 50
  20- 30
  30- 50
  10- 16
  
  9- 12
  
  
  Licences. - An annual Hcence is required for
  each man-servant in addition to wages (see
  p. 384).
  
  Board Wages. - When servants are left in
  charge of a house during the absence of the
  family, or if they are sent away temporarily for
  the same reason, it is usual to put them on board
  wages. This means that in addition to their
  regular wage they are paid a sum ranging from
  7s. 6d. to 123. 6d. for a woman-servant, and from
  12s. to 15s. for a man-servant per week as food
  money. The amount varies according to the
  style of Uving, and the district in which they
  are Uving. Wlien several servants are left
  it is very usual for them to club together and
  for one, generally the cook, to do the catering ;
  but this is a matter of arrangement amongst
  themselves. If they are obhged to find their
  own accommodation as well as board, an extra
  allowance should be paid for lodging or the fare
  paid to their own homes.
  
  Food Allowances. - In a small household where
  only one or two servants are kept it is not
  usual to have food allowances. In fact, the
  less difference there is made between the meals
  of the family and those of the servants the better.
  
  When there are several servants it is very
  customary to make an allowance of such articles
  as tea, butter, and sugar, but here, again, unless
  there is a large estabhshment it is seldom wise
  to make a difference in the quaUty of these
  commodities, unless it be tea, where a special
  brand such as China tea is frequently used for
  the dining-room and another, better liked by
  the domestics, is given for kitchen use. Other-
  wise to give an inferior quality of anything to
  the servants only leads to discontent, and. the
  sa\'ing of expense is scarcely noticeable.
  
  
  46
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  The usual allowances for tea, butter, and sugar
  are the following : - J lb. tea, i lb. butter, and
  1 lb. sugar per week for each servant.
  
  As regards the different meals, the following
  is a very usual rate of allowances : -
  
  Breakfast. - Tea, bread and butter and por-
  ridge (if wished) with some little addition, such
  as dried fish, egg, or boiled bacon. There are
  some houses whore this addition is not granted,
  but this is poor fare when we consider that a
  girl is expected to do a morning's work on the
  strength of this early meal.
  
  Lunch. - This is not a recognised meal, but
  when breakfast is taken very early, a little
  bread and butter, with a cup of milk or a cup of
  cocoa, should not be denied, especially as some
  girls are unable to take much breakfast.
  
  Dinner. - Tliis meal is usually the same as the
  dining-room lunch or early dinner, and consists
  of moat with at least one vegetable, and pudding,
  or soup and cold meat with a little cheese or
  stewed fruit.
  
  Tea. - Bread and butter with a little jam or
  dripping cake in addition to tea.
  
  Sapper. - Cocoa or coffee with bread and butter
  and cheese, or the remains of any salad, savoury,
  or simple pudding left from dinner. Meat is
  never given unless there are men-servants, but
  a basin of soup may sometimes take the place
  of the cocoa or coffee.
  
  Laondry Allowance. - If the washing is not
  done at home, servants are usually allowed from
  Is. to Is. 6d. for their laundry bill ; if the lesser
  sum, some of the smaller articles would require
  to be washed by themselves.
  
  Holidays and Time Off Duty. - There is no hard-
  and-fast rule as regards this, and it is best for
  each mistress to arrange the naatter with her
  maids. The usual allowance is an evening or
  afternoon once a week with an afternoon and
  evening on alternate Sundays ; while a fort-
  night's holiday in the year is very general.
  
  TREATMENT OF SERVANTS
  
  It is most important that when a new servant
  arrives, the house, or her department of it at
  least, should bo in good order. It is very
  disheartening to have to commence by cleaning
  out cupboards and clearing away some one
  else's disorder before any good work can be
  started.
  
  In small houses the mistress should take the
  maid round and show her where her work
  will be. and whore she will find the necessary
  implements to perform it. A list of her duties
  should be written on a card and hung in some
  convenient place, such as the kitchen or pantry,
  and it will be just aa well to have the time off
  duty stated on the same card. The details of
  the m:"id'8 work should be given her by degrees.
  There is no use confusing the girl's mind by
  telling her too much at once; the necessary
  
  
  instructions for the first day^s work will be
  quite sufficient to begin with. For the first few
  days a Uttle patience and forbearance will be
  necessary until the girl learns the ways of the
  household and the wishes of her employer, and
  allowance must be made if everything is not
  done exactly as one would wish.
  
  Then, lat"r on, though a mistress cannot ex-
  pect perfection, it is her duty to see that the
  work is properly and regularly done, and if
  anything is wrong, to speak about it at once
  and not allow it to shp. This should always
  be done in a kindly spirit and without any
  show of temper. In fact, if she is very much
  annoyed about anything, it is much better to
  wait until the first feeling of vexation has passed
  over and she is able to speak calmly and firmly
  without showing unnecessary vexation.
  
  A servant should never be corrected before
  a third person, neither should a message of re-
  primand be sent through a child or a fellow-
  servant.
  
  Then, again, it is a bad plan to be constantly
  going after a servant and doing oneself any
  work that may have been slurred over or omitted.
  Tliis is fi-equently done to save oneself the
  trouble of speaking, but it will not make a
  capable nor a reliable maid. A girl ought to
  be given a reasonable amount of work to do
  and then held responsible for its fulfilment ;
  if it is found to be more than she can properly
  do it is much wiser to relieve her of some of it
  than to have the constant feeling of dissatis-
  faction.
  
  Above all things, a mistress must make an
  effort to be absolutely fair and consistent, and
  there should be nothing underhand in her deal-
  ings. By these means she will have a bettor
  chance of obtaining faithful service. A good
  servant likes to feel that there is a firm hand
  over her, and that the mistress notices whether
  her work is well or badly done.
  
  While reproof should be given when necessary,
  praise must not be withheld when work is well
  done. A word of commendation is very wel-
  come to all of us. To those who clean oufrooms,
  cook our food, brush our boots, &c., we cannot
  be too grateful, as, at the best, it is monotonuiis
  work, and one's maids are certainly due more
  consideration than is frequently given. They
  are not aU demons trjnng to " do us " at every
  turn, but human, often very human, and they
  should certainly be treated reasonably and their
  rights respected.
  
  As we exact and expect civility and courtesy
  from our maids it is only fair that we should
  render them the same. A fear of familiarity
  should never be an excuse for a curt answer, nor
  justify the omission of " please " from oui'
  requests, nor a word of thanks for any service
  rendered. Neither should we be reluctant to
  wish them the common salutations of " good
  morning " and " good night."
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  47
  
  
  Servants who are treated with this courtesy
  of manner will, as a rule, like their place and try
  to render faithful service.
  
  It is also fitting that well-perfoi-med duties
  which tend to make the home happy and com-
  fortable should be rewarded by Utile kind-
  nesses- a gift now and then in acknowledgment
  of some special service or at a special season,
  such as Christmas or on return from a holiday,
  or an occasional hoUday or treat. A httle
  encouragement of this kind goes a long way
  towards making the drudgery of housework
  pleasant and easy.
  
  One should not be backward either in raising
  the wages of a girl who has worked well. If she
  has been in our service for a year or eighteen
  months, she is worth more than when she first
  came, and the rise will be appreciated so much
  more if it is given unsought. Then when a gift
  is given, let it be something that shows a httle
  kindly thought - a length of print, a mushn
  apron, or a pair of stockings are very useful and
  sensible, but they are not pretty, and every
  girl who is earning a fair wage ought to be able
  to afford these necessaries. How much nicer
  would be a Uttle handbag and ptirse, a pretty
  work-basket, a set of toilet brushes in a case,
  or sometMng which she would not Ukely buy
  herself, wliich would show the friendly thought
  and serve as a httle keepsake.
  
  There is much said nowadays about the dis-
  like of the lower classes for domestic service.
  One reason to account for this is the increased
  education which they receive in the elementary
  schools. This naturally creates a spirit of
  independence and a wish to rise in the social
  scale, which is not altogether unworthy. An
  employer, to be successful, must therefore take
  this new spirit into consideration and make
  allowances for it by respecting the rights of those
  who serve. Many mistresses fail to move with
  the times, and cannot see that the requirements
  of the working-classes are altering, and that
  more hberty and more wages is demanded.
  
  Fortunately, much is being done to raise
  domestic service to a higher level, and it de-
  pends very much upon the employers whether
  these efforts succeed or not. If the mistress
  herself despises household work, and allows it
  to be seen that she looks down upon those who
  do it, it will not be surprising if her domestics
  cultivate the same ideas. On the contrary,
  she ought to be able when necessary to take part
  in the household work without in any Way losing
  her dignity.
  
  A lack of leisure and want of privacy are other
  reasons for making domestic service unpopular.
  It frequently happens that a maid has no time
  she can call her own, and that she is continually
  under the eye of her employer. Now although
  there is no hmit regarding the working hours
  of a servant, beyond the fact that she must be
  allowed a sufficient time to sleep, this does not
  
  
  entitle us to demand service without relaxation.
  A certain amount of leisure must be granted
  and then strictly adhered to. An effort, too,
  should be made to make this leisure time happy
  by letting servants have a comfortable place to sit
  in. Often the only means of freedom from work
  is to go out of the house, no matter what the
  weather is hke. A few boolis or magazines or
  even the daily paper sometimes might be passed
  on to the kitchen with advantage.
  
  Then a certain amo\int of privacy is due,
  especially at meal times. Servants have a right
  to take their meals free from interruption, and
  they should not be called away if it can possibly
  be avoided. Although a mistress should feel
  free to enter her kitchen at any time, she ought
  to choose her times for doing so and not be con-
  tinually passing in and out. -
  
  Allowing a servant her independence does not
  prevent a mistress from taking a kindly interest
  in her affairs, and she must remember, too, that
  from the time the girl enters her house until the
  hour she leaves it, she is morally, although not
  legally, her guardian. It is an exception when a
  girl resents being spoken to as a fellow-woman,
  and yet some mistresses hesitate to do this
  and thus fail to win respect and affection.
  Servants should be encouraged to tell their little
  ailments, and to say at once when they are not
  feehng well. It should be seen that they go
  to bed in good time and that they take proper
  and sufficient food.
  
  It is especially necessary in the case of a
  young servant to exercise this supervision, and
  particularly so if she has been brought a long
  way from her own home and her own people.
  Then it will be the duty of the mistress to ascer-
  tain where she is going to spend her time off.
  In fact an " evening out " should scarcely be
  granted unless she has friends to go to or can
  go out with a fellow-servant. An effort should
  rather be made to let her go out during the day
  until she has made the acquaintance of some
  respectable girls with whom she can be trusted.
  
  A word might be said here about servants'
  bedrooms. The places in which some maids
  are asked to sleep are a disgrace to civilisa-
  tion, and not infrequently it is in the houses of
  the wealthy that the worst accommodation is
  found - underground bedrooms which, besides
  being dark and airless, are sometimes damp eind
  insanitary as well. For her own sake as well
  as theirs a mistress should see that her maids
  are provided with proper sleeping quarters, and
  each servant mtist have her own bed, a good
  mattress, and sufficient covering. The room
  itself should be hght and airy, and it must be
  cleaned and attended to in the same way as the
  other rooms of the house. A servant herself
  is not always fastidious and particular about
  her room, and will sometimes be lax as regards
  the cleaning of it, but none the less we must
  see that sufficient tirne is given to clean it and
  
  
  48
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  that our wishes in this respect are carried out.
  There is no reason either why the servants' bed-
  room should be the only ugly room in the house -
  a place to hang useless pictures and store un-
  sightlj' pieces of furniture. A pretty wall-paper
  or, better still, a washable distemper of a nice
  colour, a nice clean coverlet on the beds, tidy
  furniture, &c., is a training in itself and helps
  to increase the girl's seK -respect.
  
  And, finally, let us treat our servants with a
  spirit of trust and confidence, and we shall
  seldom have reason to regret it. For instance, a
  too strict locking up of daily necessaries is not
  always a good plan, as it shows a lack of con-
  fidence which a good servant will often resent,
  while a dishonest one will find a way of being
  dishonest whatever precautions we may take,
  and she is better out of the house. Besides,
  for one's own sake, it is bad to live in an atmos-
  phere of suspicion and watchfulness. Human
  nature is the same all round ; the best in us
  responds to trust, and the worst rises to the sur-
  fewje if we are constantly being rubbed the
  wrong way. Servants, like other people, would
  often do better if they were trusted more.
  
  DUTIES OF SERVANTS
  
  In drawing up a scheme of servants' duties
  it is not possible to make a plan wliich wiU
  suit all requirements, as every household has
  its own individual arrangements and no two
  are exactly ahke. All that can be done is to
  furnish a broad outline of the work which
  requires to be done, and the following para-
  graphs must be looked upon as suggestive only.
  It is to be hoped that they will serve as a guide
  to the inexperienced and help them with their
  manage until they have gained sufficient know-
  ledge to make their own plan.
  
  The amount of work to be done before break-
  feist by the different maids must depend upon
  the hour of that meal, and if before 8.30 or
  9 o'clock some of the duties put down in the
  following lists must be delayed until later in
  the morning.
  
  There has been little or no provision made for
  home washing, but where this is undertaken it
  must be looked upon as the special work of the
  day and time given for it in accordance with the
  amount to be done.
  
  The exact time for doing the various pieces
  of work has not been stated, because, as a rule,
  it is a bad plan to tie a worker down in this
  way and to say that a certain piece of work has
  to take a certain time, and so on ; it makes
  her grow into a sort of working machine, and
  takes away from her all responsibility.
  
  If the servant is active she has no inducement
  to work quickly if she finds that her spare
  moments are just filled up with more work, and,
  on the othor hand, if she is slow it is very dis-
  couraging to find that her work is never finished
  at the time oxi)ected.
  
  
  The Cook. - The cook, as her name impUes,
  is the one who prepares and cooks the food of
  the household. She is the chief servant in the
  kitchen, where she reigns supreme.
  
  There are different grades of cooks. First we
  have the Professed Cook, who is only found in
  lajge estabUshments. In former years a chef
  or man cook frequently filled this post, but
  women cooks have now come more to the fore,
  and a chef is rarely employed in a private
  manage. Tlie professed cook has always one
  or two maids under her - (kitchen-maid and
  scullery-maid) - to whom she assigns the cleaning
  of the kitchen premises, the preparation, and
  possibly the cooking of vegetables, the cooking
  and serving of servants' meals and also nursery
  meals if there are such, while she devotes herself
  to the higher branches of cookery only, assists
  the mistress in drawing up the necessary menus,
  and orders the stores required for her department.
  She does no cleaning nor housework, but is
  waited on by her underUngs.
  
  Then we have the Good Plain Cook, who in
  large households, where there are a number of
  meals to be served, will undertake all the cooking
  that is required and the cleaning of the kitchen
  and kitchen premises. Sometimes she will have
  the help of a charwoman once a week to do the
  heavy cleaning or scrubbing, or that of a
  " tweeney," a young girl who divides her time
  between the house and the kitchen, working
  generally londer the housemaid in the morning
  and under the cook from lunch time onwards.
  She may or may not undertake the cleaning of
  her own bedroom, but beyond that will do no
  work in other parts of the house.
  
  And finally we have the Cook-General, who is
  usually found in middle-class households, where
  only two or three servants are kept. Her
  duties extend somewhat beyond the kitchen.
  She is expected to take some share in house-
  work proper, such as the cleaning of the dining-
  room or library, the cleaning of the front hall,
  door-step, and brasses, and to give some assist-
  ance to the housemaid.
  
  Qualifications Necessary. - There are certain
  quaUties necessary to the making of a good
  cook, whatever her grade may be. She must
  first of all have some knowledge of cookery
  more or less extensive according to what is
  required of her. She should at least know
  thoroughly what she professes, and if it be only
  the simplest cookery, it must be good of its kind,
  palatable, and nicely served. She must also be
  punctual in all her duties, and especially so in
  the serving of meals. There is nothing which
  upsets the ways of a household so much £is having
  meals served at uncertain hours, and for this
  the cook is usually responsible.
  
  It is edso important that a cook be clean and
  tidy in her work. All the kitchen premises and
  utensils should be kept spotlessly clean, and
  while cooking is going on there should be tidy-
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  49
  
  
  ing up and clearing away at the same time.
  An untidy and littered kitchen is very dispirit-
  ing for other servants, even if the cook herself
  does not mind the disorder. No good work
  can be done in a muddle ; in fact, the best cooks
  make the least mess and use the fewest utensils.
  The kitchen should be tidied up after every
  meal and made to look as bright and comfort-
  able as possible, especially in the afternoon
  when the heavy part of the day's work is usually
  over.
  
  A cook should also be an early riser. With her
  rests the lighting of the kitchen fire, upon which
  the hot-water supply for early morning baths,
  &c., depends, not to speak of the cooking of the
  breakfast. The amount of actual work done
  before breakfast will naturally depend upon the
  hour at which the meal is served, but unless
  an early start is made the cooking of the break-
  fast will be hurried and unsatisfactory, the
  water will only be tepid, and the rest of the work
  will be behindhand all day. The other servants,
  too, look to the cook as an example of what is
  required in this respect, and if she rises late
  the others wiU doubtless follow her lead.
  
  Method and forethought are also valuable
  quahties for a cook to possess, as by their practice
  the labours of the day can often be considerably
  lightened. In cooking so many little things
  can be prepared in advance, and if the bill of
  faxe is known a day beforehand one day's work
  can often be fitted in with another's. Then,
  when it comes to the actual cooldng of the meal,
  the cook must consider carefully what dish
  requires the longest time, and so arrange that
  everything is ready at the hour appointed.
  Forethought, too, in the ordering of stores and
  provisions may save many a worry and bustle
  at the last minute. Then, again, in the matter
  of breakfast it is often possible to prepare what
  has to be cooked the night before, so that if
  anything should happen in the morning to make
  her a httle late, the first meal may still be
  prepared with a calm mind.
  
  And last, but not least, a cook ought to have
  consideration for her fellow-servants, and al-
  though the kitchen is her domain, there is no
  reason why it should ever be a place where
  others are afraid to enter, and where she acts as
  tyrant. On the contrary, she should do her
  best to make the place cosy and comfortable
  for them, as it is often their only resting-place
  when they have a Uttle leisure to sit down. It
  is the cook's duty, too, to see that the kitchen
  meals are served properly, and while it is right
  that she should have no interference with the
  larder, she must pro\'ide a sufficient supply of
  well-cooked food and that which has been
  ordered bj' the mistress herself. A word of
  warning, too, is sometimes required to cooks
  who have young servants working under them,
  as they are often tempted to put an undue
  amount upon tliem, especially of the heavy
  
  
  work, while she herself does only what requires
  Mttle output of strength.
  
  Personal Appearance. - A cook should pay
  special attention to her personal appearance,
  and specially from the point of view of cleanH-
  ness and neatness. Her hair must at all times
  be neat and not allowed to come beyond bounds.
  There is nothing more revolting than to see a
  woman preparing food with her hair hanging
  round her head in an untidy fashion, or, what
  is worse still, brushing or combing her hair in a
  kitchen.
  
  A cook should always try to keep her hands
  in good condition, and they must always be
  washed before any cooking is commenced.
  Gloves should be worn when doing any dirty
  work, such as the flues, the grates, and the
  cleaning of tins. In winter-time, if the skin
  is inclined to become very rough, a little gly-
  cerine should be rubbed in occasionally.
  
  A dress of washing material, such as print,
  drill, or galatea should be worn in the early peurt
  of the day ; in fact, there is a large amount of
  cooking to be done in the evening, and as the cook
  is not expected to leave her kitchen, it is very
  usual for her to remain in her cotton dress.
  Or she may if she chooses wear a hght print
  dress in the morning, changing to a darker
  cotton one in the afternoon. Cotton, being
  easily washed, is a much more suitable material
  for Idtchen use than any woollen stuS.
  The dress must be short enough to clear the
  ground by two inches. White linen aprons
  with bibs should be worn while cooking, and
  these should be furnished with a good-sized
  pocket. White hnen sleeves, too, are sometimes
  slipped on, but a shorter dress sleeve or one
  that can be well rolled up is in many ways
  preferable, as the white sleeves to the wrist
  become very soon soiled, and in warm weather
  are very heating. A strong coarse apron should
  be donned while doing the rougher work or
  standing at the sink. A neat and simple cap
  should also be worn. If the cook has very Uttle
  cooking to do in the evening, it is usual for her
  to dress in a dark navy blue or black dress, and
  to wear a muslin apron hke the other house-
  servants. Tidy and comfortable shoes shoiild
  be worn at all times.
  
  Duties of the Cook. - It is the duty of the cook
  to do all the cooking that is required either
  single-handed or with the help of a kitchen-
  maid or scullery-maid. Then beyond this her
  duties will vary according to the mmaber of
  servants kept and the style of living of the
  household.
  
  Although it is impossible to draw out a plan
  which will suit all cases, the following table of
  duties may serve as a guide where the cook takes
  a share in the work of the house. In larger
  establishments where the cook's ser\'ices are
  entirely confined to the kitchen it is very easy
  to delete the other duties, and the order of the
  
  
  50
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  remaining work would continue in very much
  the same way.
  
  Duties of the Cook-General. - Rise at six, strip
  bed, and leave bodroom airing. Dowiistairs at
  6.30. Open up kitchen premises and air where
  necessary. Light kitchen fire and clean range.
  (If the boiler is not a self-filling one, it should
  be filled the night before.) Fill kettles with
  water, and if there is anything for breakfeist
  which requires long cooking, such as porridge,
  put this on to cook before leaving the kitchen
  and leave other tilings ready for breakfast as
  far as possible.
  
  Then go to dining-room, draw up bUnds and
  open windows, clean fire-place and light fire if
  necessary. Sweep room with carpet-sweeper,
  dust it carefully and fill coal-box. Sweep and
  dust hall, clean doorstep and brasses and shake
  mats.
  
  Then serve kitchen breakfast and prepare
  what is required for the dining-room. Clean
  gentlemen's boots and sweep any backstairs or
  passages.
  
  Qear away dining-room breakfast things, and
  take up crumbs. Wash all or some of the
  dishes.
  
  Tidy kitchen and larder, and be ready to
  receive mistress. In the forenoon prepare and
  cook early dinner or luncheon and prepare late
  dinner as far as possible. Dust and tidy cook's
  bedroom and commence any special work of the
  day.
  
  Answer the front-door bell untU 1 o'clock, wliile
  the housemaid is engaged upstairs, and attend
  to any messages which come to the back-door.
  
  Serve lunch, then kitchen dinner and wash
  up, leaving kitchen tidy. It is usual for the
  cook to wash the dinner service used in the
  dining-room, although glass and silver are done
  by the housemaid. Finish special work of the
  day, and dress if there is no late dinner or a very
  simple one. Kitchen tea.
  
  Prepare and cook late dinner or supper and
  coffee if ordered. Wash up (this can often be
  done while the meal is going on, and need not
  be a troublesome matter). Ivitchen supper.
  
  Leave everything tidy for the night and fuel
  ready for lighting fire in the morning. The back-
  door should be locked as soon as it is dark and
  windows the last thing before going to bod.
  Bed at 10 o'clock.
  
  Special Weekly Duties. - Besides the daily
  routine some special cleaning should be under-
  taken each day so as to keep all in order.
  
  This might be arranged in somewhat the
  following manner : -
  
  .Vo';u/av- Downstairs windows.
  
  rtte^dai/- Backstairs and passages.
  
  Wediiesday- Clean dining-room and hall alternate
  
  weelcs.
  77i"r"daj/- Clean tins, brasses.
  Frida}/- Larder and cupboards.
  .Saturday- Kitchen (flues before breakfast).
  
  
  Notes. - The above plan prc^iiipposos that the
  dining-room breakfast is at 8.30; if eai'Uer some
  of the housework must be left until that meal
  is over.
  
  It is sometimes customary for the cook-
  general to help the housemaid with the beds
  except when there are young ladies in the house,
  when they generally undertake this piece of work.
  
  The clearing of the breakfast-table and wash-
  ing of some of the dishes is also frequently done
  by the ladies of the house, especially if the family
  is large and only two maids are kept.
  
  The cook-general is often expected to do some
  washing, such as all the kitchen towels and
  dusters, her o\vn we.shing, and sometimes the
  flannel washing as well. When this is the case,
  this should be done on Monday or Tuesday and
  be regarded as the special work of the day. It
  should be started as early in the forenoon as
  possible, the cooking being made as simple as
  possible that day, and a little extra help might
  be given by members of the household.
  
  The cook-general is also expected to take the
  housemaid's duties when the latter has her
  evening out or her free time.
  
  The Nurse. - See under Section " The Child."
  
  The Housemaid. - A housemaid is employed to
  do work about the house and more especially
  in the bedrooms and sitting-rooms. This work
  will vary according to the number of servants
  kept and the style of hving. In larger estab-
  lishments where there are many bedrooms and
  a constant coming and going of visitors, there
  may be several housemaids - an upper house-
  maid and two or three under -housemaids. In
  this case the upper housemaid would be respon-
  sible for and supervise all the work done in the
  bedrooms and sitting-rooms, although most of
  the actual cleaning and all the rough work would
  be undertaken by the junior maids.
  
  The upper housemaid would do the lighter ami
  more difficult work in the principal rooms, would
  see that the bedrooms were properly prepared
  for guests, answer the bedroom bells, and
  attend to the wants of the ladies of the house.
  Sometimes she is required to act as lady's-
  maid to her mistress if there is no special maid
  for this purpose. She would take charge of
  the bed-linen, giving out the necessary supplies,
  and keeping an accurate account of the stock.
  She would also take charge of all curtains and
  hangings, cushion-covers and table-covers, see
  that the suitable articles were in use and all
  kept in good order. She might also have time
  for some of the mending.
  
  It would be her duty to take early tea and
  water into the principal rooms in the morning,
  and again give the necessary attendance in these
  rooms throughout the day and in the evening.
  
  Some of the locking up at night might also
  fall to her share.
  
  The under housemaids would do all the
  cleaning proper, such as the sweeping, dusting.
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  51
  
  
  and scrubbing. The cleaning of the bath-
  rooms, lavatories, and housemaids' pantry, the
  cleaning of all grates and the Ughting of fires.
  If there is a school-room or nursery it would be
  the duty of one of them to do all the cleaning
  and waiting required in that department. The
  junior maid would also have charge of the
  servants' bedrooms and back staircase. The
  boot cleaning, too, would be shared by the under-
  housemaid unless there was a boy or man em-
  ployed for the purpose.
  
  In smaller households where only two or three
  servants are kept, the housemaid will have to
  do the work of the bedrooms single-handed,
  and the sitting-rooms are generally divided
  between the different maids. She may or may
  not have some mending to do ; this will depend
  upon the extent of her other duties,
  
  A single housemaid is also expected to give the
  parlour-maid some assistance in waiting at table
  and ans^^'e^ing of bells, and to take her duties
  during off-duty times.
  
  She will also have the cleaning of ladies' and
  any childreii's boots.
  
  The House-parlourmaid combines the duties
  of housemaid and tablemaid, and, in addition
  to her house duties, she will have charge of the
  table, i.e. the setting and clearing of the table
  for all meals, all the waiting required, and the
  washing of the silver, glass, and china. She
  should answer all front-door bells after one
  o'clock and might have to undertake a Mttle
  washing. The cook may or may not give some
  assistance -with the housework.
  
  Qualifications Necessary. - A housemaid must
  be clean, orderly, and an early riser. Much of
  the comfort of the household depends upon
  getting a fair amount of cleaning done before
  breakfast. She must b, quiet and unobtrusive
  in her work and make as little disturbance as
  possible with her cleaning. She must be polite
  and courteous in her manner and always respect-
  ful. She must also be methodical, arranging
  her work so that too much does not fall to one
  day and not sufficient to others.
  
  Dress and Appearance. - A housemaid should
  at all times be neat and tidy in appearance, and
  pay particular attention to her hair and the
  cleanUness and freshness of her person.
  
  In the morning she should be dressed in a
  neat print dress with a plain white apron with
  bib, a linen collar, and a simple cap with cambric
  frill. A coarser apron may be put on when
  doing any rough work, and a pair of gloves
  while cleaning the grates. In the afternoon the
  cotton dress should be changed for the orthodox
  dress of some black woollen material, plainly
  made, but neat fitting with tight sleeves and of
  a smart walldng length. A muslin apron should
  then be worn with a becoming cap and turn-
  down collar and cuffs visually fastened with
  bows of black ribbons. Quiet shoes should be
  worn at all times.
  
  
  Duties of tlie Housemaid. - (Three maids -
  cook, housemaid, and paj-lour-maid.) Rise at
  6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave room
  airing.
  
  Open up drawing-room or any other sitting-
  room under her care, clean fire-place, sweep
  and dust room, and light fire if necessary.
  Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the
  bedrooms and early cups of tea if required.
  Prepare baths. Ivitchen breakfast. Clean front
  hall and doorsteps unless done by cook, clean
  any boots, make her own bed, and tidy bed-
  room.
  
  While family are at breakfast go into bed-
  rooms, and see that windows are open and beds
  left to air. Then empty slops and attend to the
  wash-stands. Make beds with the parlour-
  maid's help. Dust bedrooms and put them in
  order and then do special work of the day.
  
  Kitchen dinner. Dress. In the afternoon
  finish off any Ughter pieces of work which are
  not dirty, and do mending if required.
  
  Kitchen tea. In the evening take hot water
  to the bedrooms half-an-hour before dinner is
  served. Draw dowTi blinds, and Ught up at
  dark, closing windows if required.
  
  During dinner it is usual for the housemaid to
  do the carrying of the dishes from the kitchen
  to the dining-room and vice versci, so that the
  parlour-maid may never require to leave the
  room, and also to give what assistance she
  can with the waiting. When dinner is over,
  retiim to the bedrooms, empty slops, and give
  fresh supply of water, turn down beds and lay
  out clothes for the night ; remove any dirty
  boots and see that all is in order.
  
  Kitchen supper. Bed at ten o'clock.
  
  Special Weekly Work
  
  Monday- C\ea.n drawing-room and spare bedroom
  
  alternately.
  Collect and count washing.
  Tuesday- GXe^n two bedrooms.
  IFedn€"daj/- Clean servants' bedrooms and housemaid's
  
  pantry.
  Thiirsday-Cle&n bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.
  jPridai/- Clean library or morning-room and front hall,
  
  unless done by the cook.
  Saturday- Yat away linen from washing and make
  
  things generally tidy for Sunday.
  
  Duties of the House-parlourmaid. - (Two maids,
  cook general, and house -parlourmaid.) Rise at
  6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave
  room to air.
  
  Sweep and dust drawing-room or librarj',
  and light fire if required. (The dining-room is
  done by the cook.)
  
  Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the
  bedrooms and call the family.
  
  Kitchen breakfeist. Lay sitting-room break-
  fast and clean boots, serve breakfast. Empty
  slops and see that beds are left airing. Ehist
  
  
  52
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  and tidy own bedroom. Clear brealdast-table
  and wash up, vuiloss this is done by the cook.
  Make beds with the assistance of the cook or
  some member of the family.
  
  Dust and tidy bedrooms and proceed to special
  work of the day. Dress by one o'clock. Set
  the table and serve lunch or eaaly dinner.
  
  Kitchen dinner. Clear the dining-room table,
  take up crumbs and leave room tidy. Wash
  up silver and glass and finish any light work.
  Answer front -door boll in the afternoon and
  evening and indoor bells all day.
  
  Prepare and take in afternoon tea. Kitchen
  tea. Wash up afternoon tea things.
  
  Draw down blinds, close windows (if required),
  and light up at dusk.
  
  Lay dinner-table and serve dinner. Wait at
  table, clear and w£ish up. Serve coffee if
  required.
  
  Attend to bedrooms, emptying slops, laying
  down beds, and removing any dirty boots.
  
  Ktchen supper. Bod at ten o'clock.
  
  Special Weekly Duties
  
  Monday - Clean drawing-room or spare bedroom alter-
  nately.
  Collect and count washing.
  Tuesday- Clea,n one or two bedrooms.
  Wednesday- Clean bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.
  r?"ur"iat/- Clean servants' bedroom and pantries
  Friday- C1ea.n silver and brasses.
  iSafwrdai/- Put away washing and tidy up generally.
  
  The Parlour-maid. - A parlour-maid or table-
  maid's chief duty is to look after the table and
  see to the serving of all meals. It is a very
  important position, and one which would be
  filled by a butler in houses where men-servants
  were employed.
  
  The parlour -maid takes the sole charge of the
  silver, glass, china, and other valuables in daily
  use, and is mistress of the pantry. She also has
  chsu-ge of the sideboard, the wine, cake, fruit,
  &c., and sees that fresh supplies are ordered as
  required.
  
  The care of the table-linen will be another of
  her duties. She must see that the table is
  suflBciently supplied, and that anacciu-ate account
  is kept of the stock. The mending, too, might
  be done by her if time permitted.
  
  A parlour-maid usually undertakes the cleaning
  of one or two sitting-rooms, usually the drawing-
  room and one other smaller room as well. She
  attends to the sitting-room fires, and lamps and
  candles if used.
  
  She answers the front-door boll throughout the
  day, unless relieved for part of the time by the
  housemaid, and announces all visitors.
  
  She may also be responsible for the floral
  decorations of the table and for the arrangement
  of lowers and plants throughout the house,
  vmlods the mistress herself undertakes this piece
  of work.
  
  
  If there is no man-servant the peu-lour-maid
  valets her master, attending to the brushing of
  his clothes and the cleaning of his boots. If
  there is no lady's-maid she may be called upon
  to wash up and do lace and other fine articles
  belonging to her mistress and also any fancy
  articles, such as d'oyleys and tray-oloths for
  table use.
  
  She might also be called upon to assist the
  housemaid with bed-making, and would do
  housemaid's duties in the latter's off-duty times.
  She is usually responsible for the shutting of
  the sitting-room windows .\t night and the
  front door, unless done by some member of
  the family.
  
  Personal Appearance and Requirements. - A
  parloior-maid should be tall and elegant in appear-
  ance and rather slight, so that she can move
  about easily and be graceful in her movements.
  The dress, wliich is similar to that worn by the
  housemaid, must be neatly made and fit well,
  and the apron, collar, cuffs, and cap must always
  be spotlessly clean, and especially so when the
  maid is waiting at table.
  
  A paxlour-maid should pay particular attention
  to her hands, in order to have them nice for
  giving attendance to the members of the family,
  and her hair should be neatly done without
  being too elaborate or fussy in style. She
  must be orderly and punctual in all her doings,
  and have a thorough knowledge of waiting at
  table and other table requirements.
  
  As a parlour-maid comes into such close con-
  tact with the family, the post can only be filled
  by a woman who is capable and conscientious,
  and who has the interests of her master and
  mistress at heart. Her manner must be
  pleasant and respectful at all times, she must
  know how to receive and address people of
  refinement, and be able to give in an intelligent
  way any information that may be required.
  
  Daily Duties of Parlour- maid. - Rise at 6 or
  6.30, according to time of breakfast. Dress,
  turn down bed and leave room to air.
  
  Open up sitting-rooms under her charge,
  light fires if necessary, and do the sweeping and
  dusting. Give any attendance required by the
  master of the house and clean his boots.
  
  Ejtchen breakfast. Then set sitting-room
  breakfast-table and make toast, tea and coffee
  unless done by the cook. Serve breakfast and
  wait if required. Finish any work in the sitting-
  rooms. Clear breakfast-table, take up crumbs,
  and leave room in order. Help housemaid with
  bods. (This might be done before the clearing
  of the table if breakfast is a very prolonged
  meal, but at the same time the beds should be
  left sufficient time to air.)
  
  Dust and put in order her own bedroom, un-
  less done by the housemaid. Wash up dishes,
  including silver. Sec that all cruets are filled
  ready for the next meal, also jam and sugar
  dishes attended to, and butter rolled or made
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  53
  
  
  into pats. Attend to the sideboard and see
  that the necessary wine is decanted, and that
  fruit and cake dishes are clean and tidy. Make
  a note of any stores required. Attend to any
  floral decorations and water-plants. Attend
  to lamps and candles if used in the sitting-
  rooms.
  
  Dress by one o'clock, in time to lay luncheon
  table. IMake up sitting-room fire, and put
  room in order before setting the table. Serve
  luncheon and wait as required.
  
  Kitchen dinner. After dinner clear luncheon
  from sitting-room table, leave room in order,
  and wash up. If time permits, do mending in
  the afternoon or a little ironing. Take in after-
  noon tea and attend to all visitors. Light
  up sitting-rooms at dusk and draw down
  blinds.
  
  Kitchen tea. Prepare for dinner, lay table,
  and at the appointed time announce the meal
  in the drawing-room or sound a bell or gong.
  Wait at table either alone or assisted by the
  housemaid. Carve if required. Then clear and
  wash up. Serve coSee or any other refreshment
  that may be required.
  
  Kitchen supper. Bed at ten P.M.
  
  Special Weekly Duties
  
  3/onda2/- Collect and count table linen, wash out towels,
  
  dusters, wash-leathers, &c., and give special
  
  attention to plants.
  Tuesday- Clean drawing-room or other sitting-room.
  Wednesday- C\ea.n second sitting-room (moming-room
  
  or library) or assist housemaid with special
  
  cleaning.
  Thursday- CleSin silver.
  Friday- Clesin pantry and her own bedroom, or any
  
  brasses and other ornaments.
  Saturday- CoMiit and put away washing, general tidying
  
  up ana preparations for Sunday.
  
  The General Servant. - The general servant is
  employed to do the entire work of the house,
  except that which is undertaken by the mistress
  herself or some other member of the family.
  
  If the household consist of more than two or
  thi-ee persons it will be necessary for the mistress
  to give a considerable amount of help, if the
  work is to be done properly. She may either
  do the cooking or the lighter parts of the house-
  work, such as dusting, laying the table, washing
  of silver and glass, &c. ; this depends entirely
  upon her own tastes and inchnations.
  
  Although a general servant cannot be ex-
  pected to be an expert in all branches of house-
  hold work, she ought to have a good all-round
  knowledge and be able to cook simple dishes in
  a wholesome and appetising manner.
  
  Her work need not necessarily be harder than
  that of another servant who only performs
  special duties, but it must be systematically
  arranged, and she must be quick and active if
  the day's proceedings are to be carried through
  
  
  in a satisfactory manner. A general servant
  is not infrequently looked down upon as holding
  an inferior position, a sort of " jack of all trades
  and master of none " ; but this entirely depends
  upon the maid herself and upon the house in
  which she serves. If she does her work well,
  she is a most valuable person, and her position,
  if conscientiously fiUed, may become one of
  trust. If she has the good fortune to be em-
  ployed by a kind and considerate mistress, her
  life should be a very happy one. She will enter
  into much closer relationship with the family
  than it is possible to do where there are several
  servants, and she will get full credit for all her
  work. A good general is always particular
  about her personal appearance ; the fact of
  being busy should never be an excuse for having
  a dirty and dishevelled appearance ; in fact,
  this state only denotes a slovenly worker. It
  ought also to be a source of pleasiu-e to be
  dressed in good time in the afternoon. The
  dress should be that worn by any other house
  servant, i.e. a nice print dress in the morning,
  with a white linen apron, linen collar, and cap,
  and a black or dark blue dress in the afternoon
  with a muslin apron and more dressy cap. A
  coarse apron or overall should always be kept
  at hand to sUp on when doing any dirty
  work.
  
  Daily Duties. - ^Rise at 6 or 6.30, dress, turn
  down bed and leave room to air. Unbolt door,
  draw up bhnds and open kitchen and sitting-
  room windows. Light kitchen fire and tidy
  grate. FiU kettle and put on porridge if re-
  qtiired. Clean boots, sweep and dust sitting-
  room, lighting fire if necessary. Sweep and
  dust hall and clean doorstep and brasses. (If
  breakfast is at an early hour this may be left
  until later.) Prepare sitting-room breakfast and
  have kitchen breakfast.
  
  Empty slops and air bedrooms. Tidy and
  dust her own bedroom. Clear breakfast-table,
  wash up and tidy kitchen. Take orders for the
  day.
  
  Make beds with assistance, dust and tidy bed-
  rooms, and sweep and dust stairs. I^epare
  early dinner or lunch and do special work for the
  day. (If late dinner is the rule, the mid-day
  meal should be as simple as possible, and most
  of the cooking should be prepared in the
  morning.)
  
  Serve lunch and have early dinner. Clear
  and wash up. When kitchen has been tidied,
  change dress, attend to any light duties in the
  afternoon, and serve tea. Attend to all bells
  promptly. Serve supper or dinner at the hour
  appointed, and do what waiting is required.
  Clear and wash up and have kitchen supper.
  
  Light up at dusk, draw down blinds, and close
  windows as required. After dinner tvu-n down
  beds and attend to the bedrooms. Collect
  sticks and coals for the morning. Bed at
  ten P.M.
  
  
  54
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Special Weekly Duties
  J/OTuiai/- Wash towels and dusters, &c. (Heavy washing
  
  can scarcely be undertaken unless the maid
  
  is relieved of most of her other work for the
  
  forenooa.)
  TuAKfay- Clean drawing-room and dining-room alternate
  
  weeks.
  Wednesday- Cle&n bath-room, staircase, and hall.
  Thursday- Clean bedrooms.
  Friday- Clean pantry, larder, and any back premises,
  
  also siiver and tins alternate weeks.
  Saturday- Clean kitchen.
  
  The Housekeeper. - The housekeeper is the
  representative of hor mistress, and in large house-
  holds she fulfils the duties which naturally fall
  to the mistress herself in a smaller manage.
  This leaves the lady of the house free to attend
  to social and other claims.
  
  The housekeeper is second in command, and
  answerable only to the head of the house. She
  engages and dismisses servants and pays their
  wages - with the exception of the nurse and
  lady's-maid - arranges their work, and is respon-
  sible in every way for their appearance and
  behaviour and the fulfilment of their duties.
  
  The housekeeper is responsible for the proper
  keeping of the house in every part, and she
  sees to the needs and comfort of the whole family
  and domestic staff.
  
  She orders and gives out all stores, keeps
  £iccounts, and pays the bills. If there is a butler
  he reheves lier of some of those duties, and he is
  always responsible for the men-servants.
  
  The hoiosekeeper should see her employer at
  stated times in order to give in a report of the
  various departments, and also to receive her
  instructions and learn her wishes.
  
  The housekeeper has always her own sitting-
  room in which her meals are served by one of
  the under - maids, except dinner, which she
  usually takes with the other servants.
  
  Her sitting-room may be shared by some of
  the upper servants, such as the lady's-maid, the
  butler, and the valet.
  
  The Butler. - The position of butler is usually
  one of great trust. He is head of the men-
  servants, is responsible for the work of those
  under him, arranges their off-duty time, and
  often engages them as well.
  
  He has sole charge of the wine collar, and
  gives out the wine required, keeping a note of
  the stock, and frequently seeing to the buying
  in of supplies.
  
  To his care is confided the silver and otlier
  articles of value in daily use.
  
  He is responsible for the arrangement of all
  meals and the table appointments. He an-
  nounces when meals are ready, puts the dishes
  on the table or does the carving, pours out the
  wine, and waits assisted by a footman or parlour-
  maid.
  
  He is responsible for the care of the billiard-
  room and smoking-room or library, and the
  
  
  fires and lighting arrangements of the other
  rooms.
  
  If single-handed, his duties would be very
  much the same as those already detailed for the
  house-parlourmaid. If there is no valet he
  waits upon his master. He also looks after any
  carriage or motor rugs and lamps, and in the
  country would be responsible for shooting and
  picnic lunches.
  
  When there is no housekeeper the butler
  frequently pays the bills and does the marketing.
  He usually goes out every day.
  
  The butler is also responsible for the shutting
  up of the house.
  
  In the early part of the day his dress should
  be dark trousers and waistcoat and black tail
  coat, with a white front and collar and black tie
  - in the evening the regulation dress suit with a
  white tie.
  
  The Footman. - The footman is generally an
  all-round useful man and his duties may be
  very varied. If there is a butler, he would
  work under him, but in houses where he is the
  only man-servant his duties might be somewhat
  after the following : -
  
  He would clean boots and shoes, knives and
  windows, fetch coal and see to the filling of
  coal-scuttles and the keeping up of fires.
  
  He would lay the table and wait, assisted by
  a parlour-maid or housemaid, and wash up the
  silver, glass, and china after each meal.
  
  He would valet his master and go out with the
  carriage if required, attending to any rugs.
  
  The charge of lamps and window - plants
  would also fall to his share. He would answer
  bells, announce visitors, and take in afternoon
  tea.
  
  He would also be responsible for the locking
  up of the house at night.
  
  A footman may or may not wear livery. If
  this is not supplied it is usual to give two suits
  in the year, either new or from Ms master's
  wardrobe.
  
  The Lady's - maid. - Tlie lady's - maid devotes
  herself to the personal requirements of her
  mistress and looks after her needs in every
  way.
  
  She undertakes the charge of her wardrobe
  and sees that all her belongings are kept in
  good order and proper repair.
  
  She assists her mistress v.'ith her toilet, helps
  her to dress and undress, brushes and dresses
  her hair, selects and lays out the clothes she is
  going to wear.
  
  She does any packing and unpacking and
  travels with her mistress when required.
  
  She requires a bedroom for herself, which is
  sometimes fitted as a bed-sitting-room, where
  she can do her sewing and other work.
  
  She will keep her own and her mistress's
  room in order, do the dusting, and make the
  beds with some assistance ; but she will not
  be expected to clean grates nor do any hard
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  55
  
  
  cleaiiijig, and she will take no part in general
  housework.
  
  If well filled the post of lady's-maid is no
  sinecure, as a varied knowledge is necessary to
  do all that is required. A woman who under-
  takes this work inust be able to sew well in
  order that she may both make and mend neatly.
  She must also have some knowledge of dress-
  making and millinery so as to be able to alter and
  renovate, to change the style of an evening dress,
  to make a tasteful bow, retrim a hat or bonnet,
  or give the necessary finishing touches to a
  lady's toilet. She must be a woman of taste,
  and be able to give advice as to the choice of
  dresses, &c.
  
  She ought to know enough laundry work to
  enable her to wash and do up laces and silks and
  musUn, wash shawls and feather boas, and other
  fancy articles.
  
  She must be a good hair-dresser, and if a
  fashionable coiffure is required, it is a good plan
  to take a lesson occasionally from a first-class
  hairdresser in order to learn the newest
  modes.
  
  If she travels with her mistress a knowledge
  of languages, especially French, is invaluable,
  and she should know how to make travelling
  arrangements, see to tickets and luggage, and
  be responsible for the exchange of money.
  
  A lady's-maid wears no uniform, but ought
  to be quietly and neatly dressed when in attend-
  ance on her mistress.
  
  Her manner must be pleasant and respectful,
  and she must know how to exercise self-control.
  As she comes into such close contact with the
  private life of her mistress, it is her duty to give
  her faithful and loyal service as long as she
  remains in her employment.
  
  The Valet. - The valet attends to the personal
  wants of his master just as the lady's-maid waits
  upon her mistress. He helps him with his
  dressing, and takes fxill charge of his wardrobe,
  brushes his clothes, cleans his boots, and attends
  to any repairs.
  
  He sees that his master's wash-stand and
  toilet-table are supplied with the necessary
  requisites, and is responsible for all his belongings
  being kept in order and in the proper place.
  
  He must know how to pack and unpack, and
  if he travels with his master he must know how
  to make all arrangements, take tickets, and see
  to luggage, &c.
  
  The valet is sometimes expected to give
  assistance in waiting at table.
  
  The Laundry-maid. - The laundry-maid is re-
  sponsible for the washing and dressing of the
  household linen.
  
  She will have full charge of the laundry, seeing
  that it is kept clean and in perfect order. Slie
  will also be responsible for all the Unen con-
  fided to her care.
  
  If the family is not large, she may be expected
  to take part in some of the housework as well.
  
  
  (For fuller details of her duties see Guide to
  Laundry Work, p. 271.)
  
  The Scullery-maid. - The scullery-maid ranks
  lowest amongst the kitchen servants, and if there
  is a kitchen-maid she works under her.
  
  A scullery-maid is employed primarily for
  cleaning all the dishes and utensils used in the
  kitchen ; she washes the kitchen floors and does
  the scrubbing. She will assist with the pre-
  paration of vegetables and be responsible for
  the keeping up of the kitchen fire.
  
  If there is no kitchen-maid, the scullery-
  maid will assist the cook and work under her
  direction.
  
  Although the work may be somewhat labori-
  ous, it is a good beginning for a young girl who
  aspires to be cook, and if she is quick and willing
  she may learn a great deal, and gradually rise
  to a better position.
  
  The Kitchen-maid. - A kitchen-maid is em-
  ployed to work under a cook, to be her apprentice
  as it were. She is responsible for many of the
  plainer dishes, thus leaving the cook free for
  more important duties. She prepares and
  serves the kitchen meals, and also cooks for
  the mu-sery and school-rooin if required.
  
  If there is no scullery-maid, the kitchen-maid
  will also undertake the cleaning of the kitchen
  utensils, the kitchen stove, and some of the
  kitchen premises.
  
  Provided a kitchen-maid serves under a good
  cook, this is the best way for her to learn the
  art of cooking.
  
  The Tweeny. - This is a title given to a young
  girl who divides her time between the house and
  the kitchen. In the forenoon she may work
  under the housemaid or the nurse and do the
  housework, and from lunch time onwards assist
  the cook. She does all the odd jobs and must
  be ready to make herself generally useful.
  
  The Hall Boy. - The hall boy or boy in buttons
  is sometimes kept in place of a single man-
  servant, and if clever and wilhng he may
  be an extremely useful member of the house-
  hold.
  
  He wiU be found of special value in the house
  of a professional man, such as a doctor or
  dentist, where there is much answering of bella
  required, and perhaps running of messages as
  well.
  
  A capable boy will soon learn to clean knives,
  boots, and windows, to fill coal-scuttles and
  look after fires. He will also be able to set
  the table, do some waiting and most of the
  wasliing up.
  
  The boy in buttons must be provided with
  clothes ; a Uvery suit of some dark cloth,
  navy serge, dark green, or dark crimson with
  the coat buttoning to the neck, and for
  doing cleaning or rough work he should
  have a cotton jacket of dark blue or striped
  drill or strong hoUand and some good stout
  aprons.
  
  
  56
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  HOUSEKEEPING WITHOUT A SERVANT
  
  In these days of flat life, when accommodation
  for housing a ser\'ant is very limited, it is often
  found more convenient to do without one
  altogether, or to manage with eitlier daily help
  or the ser\nces of a thoroughly competent
  worker once or twice a week.
  
  It ought to be quite possible for a newly
  married lady to undertake the work of a small
  flat with perhaps the occasional help of a char-
  woman, and to have time for other interests as
  well. Or if, as is often the case, two sisters or
  two friends live together, the work should be
  all the more easy to manage, as each can take
  her share of the household duties.
  
  Some knowledge of housekeeping is, however,
  necessary for the successful management of a
  " no servant " manage, and if one is entirely
  ignorant of the ways of doing things, it should
  scarcely be attempted unless absolutely necessary,
  as the results are not likely to be satisfactory.
  
  Good health is also a sine qua non, although
  no great phj^sical strength is required ; so much
  is done nowadays to make the work of a house
  simple, and especially the work in a flat. There
  are no stairs nor front door -step to keep in order,
  the cooking and water heating can be done by
  gaa, and all provisions, &c., can be brought to
  the very door without the trouble of going up
  and down stairs. Yet with aU the conveniences
  possible, success in the undertaking will depend
  to a large extent upon the order and method
  displayed in its organisation. The work must
  be planned carefully, or one will either be in a
  constant muddle, or be continually at it, and
  have time for nothing beyond the daily round of
  house duties.
  
  To begin with, the woman who does her own
  work must dress suitably when performing her
  household duties - a short sldrt, a cotton or
  other washing blouse, and a big apron or overall
  is the most suitable attire ; or a complete wash-
  ing dress might be worn if the weather is warm.
  A large overall to slip on over a good afternoon
  dress will also bo found useful.
  
  It will be well also to seciure as many labour-
  saving apparatus aa possible, such as gas-cooker,
  carpet-sweeper, knife-cleaner, mop for washing
  dishes, &c.
  
  Care.too, must be taken of the hands. Because
  a woman is her own maid-of-all-work this is no
  excuse for her being careless in this respect.
  Gloves should be worn as much as possible, and
  after doing washing up the hands should be well
  dried and a few drops of glycerine and rose-
  water should be rubbed into the skin.
  
  Do not commence by doing too much before
  breakfast. Unless one has been accustomed to
  early rising it is apt to knock one up for the rest
  of the day without any reason. Do not attempt
  to light fires and clean out a sitting-room before
  a meal has been taken. Sometimes it may be
  
  
  possible to prepare a certain amount the night
  before, and in any case there should be a small
  gas or even an oil-stove upon which the morning
  meal can be prepared. If the sitting-room has
  not a stove which can be lit without much
  trouble, there is no reason why the kitchen should
  not be pretty enough and tidy enough for the
  first meal to be taken there.
  
  On rising in the morning put on a large kettle
  of water. If there is porridge for breakfast this
  should have been soaked over-night in a double
  cooker. Put a light under this also. Then
  dress, and when ready let breakfast have the
  first attention, talcing time to have this meal
  leism-ely and in comfort. Next collect the
  dishes and clear the table, and either put the
  dishes to one side while the bedrooms and
  sitting-room are being done, or wash them up
  straight away.
  
  The sitting-room should be done next, as it
  will be as well to let the bedrooms air as long as
  possible. If a fire has to be laid, do this with
  order and method. Go over the floor with a
  carpet-sweeper, then dust every part and leave
  the window open. Next turn yovu- attention
  to the bedrooms, put these in order, and then
  sweep and dust the passage. Now return to
  the kitchen, wash up all the dishes, and sweep
  and dust. If breakfast has not been very late,
  all the cleaning should be finished by eleven
  o'clock, unless some special work has to be done,
  such as the thorough cleaning of a room, silver,
  brasses,   work this could also be fitted in.
  
  The cooking for the day should now be thought
  of, and although it is alwaj's possible to have
  meals at a restaurant, or to order various dishes
  from a caterer's, it must be remembered that
  this is an expensive way of living, and with the
  necessary knowledge of cookery it should be
  quite possible to have dainty little meals at
  home, and so feed well with very little trouble.
  The woman who does her own work will not
  require to spend much time considering what is
  in her larder ; she will no doubt have arranged
  in her own mind what the different meals have
  to be whilst doing her other work. All the
  cookery required should either be done in the
  morning or at least prepared as far as possible,
  so that what must be left for the evening will take
  very little time to get ready when required.
  Light utensils should be used, such as aliuninium,
  enamelled tin, or earthenware saucepans, as they
  are easier to handle and keep in order. One or
  two steamers would also be invaluable, as so
  much cooking can be done in these -nathout
  trouble and attention.
  
  After the mid-day meal it is a good plan to
  rest, even if only for half-an-hoiu", and then, after
  dressing, one ought to feel quite fresh to go out
  and turn one's thoughts in a different channel.
  The afternoon should be free from household
  
  
  MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
  
  
  57
  
  
  If the evening meal has been prepared in the
  morning it will not take long to get it ready, and
  haK-an-hour as an ordinary rule should be
  sufficient. Then if washing up in the evening
  is found awkward, there is no occasion to do
  more than the silver, which it is never wise to
  leave, and the other dishes, if they are not re-
  quired in the morning, could be packed up and
  washed with the breakfast dishes.
  
  Marketing. - The time for doing this will
  depend upon circumstances, and need not be
  rigidly fixed. If it is inconvenient to go out in
  the mornmg in the midst of the other work it
  may be possible to order in the afternoon for
  the following day, or another way is to arrange
  for the tradesmen to call, and for everything to
  be brought to the door at a certain time.
  
  Outside Help. - This may be obtained either
  daily or once or twice a week, according to
  circumstances and individual needs. If a
  young girl is engaged to come in for an hour or
  two every morning, she might do the washing \ip,
  prepare the vegetables, and attend to the other
  kitchen work, also clean the boots and stoves
  and assist with the rooms as well. Many prefer,
  however, to have more competent help even if
  it is not so often. A good worker for half a day
  could do all the hard cleaning, including the
  stoves, scrubbing of the kitchen, and thoroughly
  clean one or two rooms each visit. If the rooms
  can be prepared for her, and any ornaments and
  other trifles dusted and afterwards arranged, it
  will be a great saving of time, and in this way
  
  
  half the rooms could be cleaned one week, and
  
  the other half the next.
  
  Advantages. - Besides the actual saving of
  board and wages of an indoor servant there will
  be a feeling of independence. It will be possible
  to leave home for a day or a week without any
  need for worrying about the house. There will
  also be freedom from that feeling of close
  proximity to a servant which is impossible to
  avoid in a flat, and which destroys the sense of
  Hberty which is essential to the happiness of
  both parties.
  
  Warning. - ^It must be remembered that house-
  work must not crowd out everything else ; one
  mvist have time to read a little, rest a little, and
  keep in touch with the outside world as welL
  The economy that saves money at the expense
  of health and the capabihty of enjojrment is in
  reality one of the worst extravagances.
  
  Another point is that the housekeeper must
  remember to feed herself. If the mid-day meal
  is taken alone, she is only too apt to make it as
  meagre as possible to save trouble, and also to
  take it too qiiickly, whereas time would be well
  spent in eating something reaUy nutritious, and
  if the quantity is small the quality should be
  all the more carefully considered.
  
  One must also learn to do without many
  things, and not expect to live in the same style
  as those who have plenty of servants at their
  command, but this can quite well be done with-
  out falling into a slovenly way of living and
  losing any of the refinement of life.
  
  
  WAGES TABLE
  
  Giving the rates per Month, Week, and Day of Yearly Incomes from £10 to £50
  
  
  Year.
  
  Month
  
  Week.
  
  Day.
  
  Year.
  
  Month.
  
  Week.
  
  Day.
  
  £ 8.
  
  d.
  
  £
  
  s.
  
  d.
  
  £
  
  8.
  
  d.
  
  £
  
  s.
  
  d.
  
  £
  
  B. d.
  
  £
  
  6.
  
  d.
  
  £
  
  s.
  
  d.
  
  £
  
  8. d.
  
  10 0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  16
  
  8
  
  0
  
  3
  
  m
  
  0
  
  0
  
  H
  
  17
  
  0 0
  
  8
  
  4
  
  0
  
  6
  
  6^
  
  0
  
  0 Hi
  
  10 10
  
  0
  
  0
  
  17
  
  6
  
  0
  
  4
  
  Oh
  
  0
  
  0
  
  7
  
  17
  
  10 0
  
  9
  
  2
  
  0
  
  6
  
  Si
  
  0
  
  0 lU
  
  11 0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  18
  
  4
  
  0
  
  4
  
  2|
  
  0
  
  0
  
  n
  
  17
  
  17 0
  
  9
  
  9
  
  0
  
  6
  
  101
  
  0
  
  0 llf
  
  11 10
  
  0
  
  0
  
  19
  
  2
  
  0
  
  4
  
  5
  
  0
  
  0
  
  n
  
  18
  
  0 0
  
  10
  
  0
  
  0
  
  6
  
  11
  
  0
  
  0 llj
  
  11 11
  
  0
  
  0
  
  19
  
  3
  
  0
  
  4
  
  5i
  
  0
  
  0
  
  u
  
  18
  
  10 0
  
  10
  
  10
  
  0
  
  7
  
  H
  
  0
  
  1 Oi
  
  12 0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  4
  
  n
  
  0
  
  0
  
  8
  
  18
  
  18 0
  
  11
  
  6
  
  0
  
  7
  
  3i
  
  0
  
  1 Oi
  
  12 10
  
  0
  
  0
  
  10
  
  0
  
  4
  
  n
  
  0
  
  0
  
  8i
  
  19
  
  0 0
  
  11
  
  8
  
  0
  
  7
  
  3*
  
  0
  
  1 o|
  
  12 12
  
  0
  
  1
  
  0
  
  0
  
  4
  
  m
  
  0
  
  0
  
  8h
  
  19
  
  10 0
  
  ^
  
  12
  
  6
  
  0
  
  7
  
  6
  
  0
  
  1 0|
  
  13 0
  
  0
  
  1
  
  8
  
  0
  
  5
  
  0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  8|
  
  19
  
  19 0
  
  13
  
  3
  
  0
  
  7
  
  8
  
  0
  
  1 1
  
  13 10
  
  0
  
  2
  
  6
  
  0
  
  5
  
  2i
  
  0
  
  0
  
  9
  
  20
  
  0 0
  
  13
  
  4
  
  0
  
  7
  
  H
  
  0
  
  1 u
  
  13 13
  
  0
  
  2
  
  9
  
  0
  
  5
  
  3
  
  0
  
  0
  
  9
  
  21
  
  0 0
  
  15
  
  0
  
  0
  
  8
  
  1
  
  0
  
  1 If
  
  14 0
  
  0
  
  3
  
  4
  
  0
  
  5
  
  4i
  
  0
  
  0
  
  n
  
  22
  
  0 0
  
  16
  
  8
  
  0
  
  8
  
  5i
  
  0
  
  1 2J
  
  14 10
  
  0
  
  4
  
  2
  
  0
  
  5
  
  7
  
  0
  
  0
  
  9|
  
  23
  
  0 0
  
  18
  
  4
  
  0
  
  8
  
  m
  
  0
  
  1 3
  
  14 14
  
  0
  
  4
  
  6
  
  0
  
  5
  
  n
  
  0
  
  0
  
  9J
  
  24
  
  0 0
  
  2
  
  0
  
  0
  
  0
  
  9
  
  2i
  
  0
  
  1 3|
  
  15 0
  
  0
  
  5
  
  0
  
  0
  
  5
  
  n
  
  0
  
  0
  
  n
  
  25
  
  0 0
  
  2
  
  1
  
  8
  
  0
  
  9
  
  H
  
  0
  
  1 4^
  
  15 10
  
  0
  
  5
  
  10
  
  0
  
  5
  
  Hi
  
  0
  
  0
  
  m
  
  30
  
  0 0
  
  2
  
  10
  
  0
  
  0
  
  11
  
  6J
  
  0
  
  1 7|
  
  15 15
  
  0
  
  6
  
  3
  
  0
  
  6
  
  0|
  
  0
  
  0
  
  m
  
  35
  
  0 0
  
  2
  
  18
  
  4
  
  0
  
  13
  
  5i
  
  0
  
  1 11
  
  16 0
  
  0
  
  6
  
  8
  
  0
  
  6
  
  If
  
  0
  
  0
  
  10*
  
  40
  
  0 0
  
  3
  
  6
  
  8
  
  0
  
  15
  
  4i
  
  0
  
  2 2J
  
  16 10
  
  0
  
  7
  
  6
  
  0
  
  6
  
  H
  
  0
  
  0
  
  io|
  
  45
  
  0 0
  
  3
  
  15
  
  0
  
  0
  
  17
  
  3|
  
  0
  
  2 5i
  
  16 16
  
  0
  
  8
  
  0
  
  0
  
  6
  
  H
  
  0
  
  0
  
  11
  
  50
  
  0 0
  
  4
  
  3
  
  4
  
  0
  
  19
  
  2f
  
  0
  
  2 9
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  The object of the foUowing pages is to furnish the housewife with directions for the performance
  of such details of household work as ai-e not dealt with under special headings.
  
  The directions are the result of many years practical experience of everything pertaining to
  household management. ^ o x- e
  
  The various details of household work are dealt with separately under their own headings, and
  the many useful hints with regard to cleaning, &c., are the result of actual test
  
  It 13 hoped that the information given wiU afford valuable help to the harassed housewife in
  the little difficulties which are continually cropping up in the course of daily duties. If it does
  this the imssion of this section of the book will be abundantly fulfilled.
  
  
  THE CLEANING OF ROOMS
  
  Before beginning to clean a room of any kind
  it is very important that everything required for
  the work should be collected together, so that
  there need be no unnecessary running about to
  seek for tliis or that duster or brush. So first
  consider what has to be cleaned, and then take
  with you the necessary implements, seeing that
  everything is in order for the work to be carried
  out satisfactorily and systematically, with the
  least possible waste of time.
  
  TO CLEAN AND TIDY A BEDROOM
  
  Dally Work.- First draw up the blinds as far
  as they will go, being careful to keep them
  straight, and open the windows top and bottom.
  Then turn down the bed and spread out any
  night garments on a chair. Allow the room to
  au- for an hour at lea^t before the bed is made.
  During this time the slops may be emptied,
  towels hung up evenly, and any clothing or
  other articles left lying about the room put
  away in theu- places. It is always better if
  two people can make the bed. When this is
  neatly finished, fold up the night-dress or
  sleeping-suit, put it in a neat case, and lay it on
  the bed just beneath the pillow.
  
  If there has been a fire in the room attend to
  the grate next, being careful to make as little
  dust as possible.
  
  It will not be necessary to sweep the room
  every day, but the floor must be gone over
  with a short brush and shovel or with a carpet-
  sweeper, so as to take up any pieces or surface I
  dust. Be careful too that all fluff is removed
  from underneath the bed. Some people prefer '
  to have the carpet wiped over with a slightly
  damp cloth or leather.
  
  Then dust the room. Commence at one corner
  
  
  ss
  
  
  and go steadily round, dusting each article until
  every part has been done. Pay particidar at-
  tention to the toilet table. Lift each article
  and diist underneath it, arranging everything
  with order and taste.
  
  If the edges of the floor are pohshed or covered
  with hnoleum, rub them round with a shghtly
  damp duster, or, better still, with the flannel or
  cloth which has been used to rub up a polished
  floor. The latter will have the remains of a
  httle wax upon it, and will keep the floor in good
  condition.
  
  If a candlestick has been used, see that this is
  in order, putting in a fresh candle if required,
  and removing any old matches.
  
  Finally fill up the ewer and water-jug with
  fresh cold water, and lower the blinds and
  windows a httle if desired. Look round the
  room to see that everything is in order and
  that no duster or brush is being left beliind, and
  close the door quietly on leaving.
  
  Weekly or Thorough Cleaning.- Once a week,
  or at least once a fortnight, a bedroom will
  require a more thorough cleaning if it is in
  constant use.
  
  After the slops have been emptied, the bed-
  room ware and any gas globes should be carried
  away to a bathroom or housemaid's pantry,
  where they can be washed. If this is not con-
  venient, they must be covered over and washed
  afterwards in the room.
  
  Before making the bed, brush the mattress on
  both sides and well round the edges, as this is
  one of the best means of keeping away moths;
  Dust also the bedstead under the mattress and
  then make the bed, but do not put on the top
  cover ; this is better kept off until the cleaning
  is finished. Tuck up the valance all round, if
  there is one, and brush and pin back any
  curtains out of the way.
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  69
  
  
  Next lay some sheets of clean paper or a large
  towel on the top of the bed. Dust all ornaments
  (keeping aside any that may require washing)
  and other small articles, and lay them on the top
  of the bed over the paper, or towel. Shake and
  fold up the toilet cover, and all table-cloths
  and towels ; shake and remove any short
  window-blinds, and lay these also on the bed.
  Cover all with a large dust-sheet, which will
  hang well over the sides.
  
  Dust and remove from the room as many as
  possible of the small articles of furniture, and
  cover over what is left with dust-sheets or old
  newspapers. If any of the chairs are up-
  holstered, these should be brushed with a
  furniture brush before being covered. All
  clothing must be taken down from the back of
  doors and kept out of the room or under cover.
  
  Roll up all rugs or n^ats, and take them out-
  side to be beaten later on. If this cannot be
  done they must be brushed with a short brush
  in the room and then removed.
  
  If there has been a fire in the rooim, remove
  all the cinders and dost, but do not pohsh the
  grate until the room has been swept. Next
  close all windows and doors, and see that drawers
  too are shut.
  
  Sprinkle the carpet with tea-leaves or bran,
  and sweep it thoroughly. When the dust has
  all been collected in a shovel, the window should
  be thrown open and the room left for a httle
  while to allow the dust to settle.
  
  Meanwhile the dust in the dust-pan should be
  taken away and burnt at once. K left lying
  about it is very apt to be knocked over and the
  contents perhaps scattered around. The articles
  that have been outside can also have attention.
  The rugs should be brushed or beaten outside
  and carried back in readiness to be laid down,
  the ware in the batliroom washed, and the
  small fxirniture rubbed up.
  
  Then return to the room and finish off the
  fireplace, using a hearth- cloth.
  
  Roll up the dust-sheets, which should after-
  wards be shaken in the open air. One word
  about dust-sheets - too often these are used
  vmtil they reach such a dirty state as to be
  rendered almost useless. They should be
  washed whenever necessary.
  
  Tlie dusting may now be commenced. First
  mount a pair of steps, dusting all out-of-
  reach places, such as bhnds, curtain poles,
  inside of windows, pictures, top of wardrobe
  and door, &c. Then dust and polish, if neces-
  sary, the furniture that remains in the room ; also
  dust round the skirting board, panels of doors
  and floor where it is uncarpeted.
  
  When the dust has as far as possible been
  removed from the room, it is time to do any
  necessary washing. Wash the top of the wash-
  stand if it is marble, the tiles round the fire-
  place, the window ledges if they require it, and
  any finger-marks off doors. The windows and
  
  
  mirrors too if they require special cleaning
  should now have attention. Also finish off the
  edges of the floor in a suitable manner, accord-
  ing to whether they aie hnoleum, varnish, or
  matting.
  
  Now put back in their places the articles which
  were laid on the bed, let down the bed valance,
  and put the bed in order.
  
  Then bring back the things from outside and
  arrange everything in order. Supply the wash-
  stand with fresh water and new soap if required.
  
  Spare Bedrooms. - These will not require to be
  cleaned so often as the rooms that are in con-
  stant use. If they are aired and dusted regularly
  they ought to keep in good order without being
  tm-ned out more than perhaps once a month. Of
  course, this depends a good deal upon the locaUty
  in wliich a house is situated. A room in a
  smoky city will requii-e much more cleaning
  than one in a fresh country district.
  
  Note. - For details of the various operations,
  see under special headings.
  
  
  TO CLEAN A SITTING-ROOM
  
  The order and method for this is very much
  the same as for a bedroom, except of coiirse
  there is not the bed and wash-stand to attend
  to.
  
  Daily Work. - Draw up the blinds and open
  the window. Remove any table-covers, shake
  them and fold them up, and roll up the rugs
  (sometimes tliis is done over-night).
  
  If there has been a fire in the room, attend to
  that first. Lay down the hearth-cloth before
  commencing, and finish off the grat" com-
  pletely.
  
  Then with a dust-pan and short brush - or,
  better stiU, with a carpet-sweeper - go over the
  floor, taking up any crumbs and pieces and ail
  siu-face dust. Be careful to make 6is httle dust
  as possible. Lay down the rugs and brush them
  over also.
  
  Tlien take away the dust and burn it at once,
  also the contents of the waste- paper basket.
  
  Next dust the room ceirefully, commencing at
  one corner and going steadily round.
  
  If there is a poUshed or hnoleum surround
  to the carpet, wipe this round with a slightly
  damp duster and then with a dry one. Dust at
  the same time the sku*ting-boards. Replace the
  table-covers, and see that cushions, books, &c.,
  are all in order.
  
  To " Thorough-Clean " a Sitting-room. - A room
  that is in constant use will require to be cleaned
  more thoroughly once a week. A drawing-
  room or room that is only used occasionally will
  not require it so often. The mistress of the house
  must decide for herself how often it is necessary
  to turn it out.
  
  To Prepare the Room. - First remove all plants
  and flowers, and these sliould be attended to and
  
  
  60
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  arranged outside before they are brought back
  into the room.
  
  Pull up the blinds as far as they will go.
  Shake or brush the curtains, and pin them high
  up out of the way. Remove any short window-
  curtains, shake them and fold them up.
  
  Then dust thorougWy all ornaments, odd
  books, music, &c., and cither remove them from
  the room or cover them over on a table or side-
  board inside.
  
  Dust also and remove, if possible, all small
  articles of furniture.
  
  Roll up all rugs, and have them taken out of
  doors to be shaken or beaten later on.
  
  Take off all table-cloths and antimacassars,
  shake them and fold them up. Boat all cusliions,
  but not too roughly, and then cover all these
  small things with a dust-sheet.
  
  Upholstered furniture and footstools should
  be brushed, and all furniture which cannot
  be removed should be covered over with large
  clean dust-sheets.
  
  To Clean the Room. - Follow the same order
  for sweeping, dusting, and doing the grate as for
  a bedroom. (See 59.)
  
  After sweeping, and while the dust is settling,
  the things outside should be seen to. Rugs
  should be shaken, dirty ornaments and glass
  globes washed or cleaned, and any necessary
  polishing done.
  
  After the inside dusting is done, put back the
  furniture in its place, and put on table-cloths and
  antimacassars. Bring back all ornaments, &c.,
  take down the curtains and see that all is in order.
  
  Finally replace any plants and flower decora-
  tions.
  
  CLEANING OF HALL AND STAIRCASE
  
  Before commencing to clean these, close all
  doors leading into them. Take up all mats and
  have them shaken outside the house. In
  houses where there is much going up and down
  stairs the latter will require to be swept down
  daily, but with a quiet household it may be
  sufficient to sweep them two or three times a
  week, and to simply dust them on the other days.
  
  Begin at the top landing and work down-
  wards. If there is a long stretch of landing
  on any of the floors, this should be swept with a
  long broom or carpet-sweeper instead of the
  short brush, as it will save unnecessary kneeling.
  
  To sweep the stairs, take a banister or stair-
  brush and a dust-pan. A double brush, with
  bristles on one side and hair on the other, is the
  most convenient for the purpose. Sweep the
  top and front of each step, catching the dust in
  the dust-pan. Use the bristle side of the brush
  for the carpet and the soft hair side for the paint
  or varnish.
  
  When the bottom of the stair is reached take
  the dust away at once and have it burnt ; if left
  lying in the dust-pan it is very liable to be
  
  
  knocked over and spilt. And here a word of
  warning may be given about the danger of leav-
  ing cleaning materials on a stair ; most serious
  accidents have happened owing to carelessness in
  this respect.
  
  Allow the dust to settle before doing the
  dusting. Stairs and banisters will require to be
  dusted thoroughly every daj', and each banister
  rail should be done separately.
  
  The varnished or painted sides of stair and
  landing should be wiped first with a slightly
  damp rubber, as this will prevent the dust flying
  about, and then poUshed with a dry one.
  
  Doors, door-handles, and window ledges must
  also liave attention. Lay down the mats last
  of aU.
  
  Weekly Cleaning, - Once a week the stairs will
  require a more thorough cleaning.
  
  When sweeping the steps, pull out the ends of
  the rods and sweep away the dust from under-
  neath. The banisters too, if they are of wood,
  should be carefully brushed. If made of painted
  iron, they may be washed after the sweeping is
  finished with a wash leather wrung out of warm
  water and a very httle soap. Care itiust be
  taken to wring the leather rather firmly, so as to
  prevent drops of water falling on the steps.
  
  After the stairs have been thoroughly swept,
  and while the dust is settUng, the rods may be
  cleaned. While doing this an old newspaper
  or large duster should be laid on the steps to
  protect the carpet, and not more than one or two
  rods must be taken out at one time.
  
  Then after the steps and banisters have been
  carefully dusted, polish the hand-rail with a
  little furniture pohsh and the sides of the stairs
  and landing with floor polish, or bees' -wax and
  turpentine. If of varnished wood, or if of
  enamelled white paint, wash them carefully with
  a little plain soap and water, and rub up with a
  dry cloth.
  
  A stair carpet will require lifting more fre-
  quently than other carpets ; twice a year at
  least, and oftener, if there is much going up and
  down. When the carpet is up, the stops should
  be well scrubbed with a little carbohc soap before
  it is relaid.
  
  If there is a linen drugget over the stair
  carpet, this should be lifted frequently. Poll it
  up as gently as possible so £is not to disturb the
  dust. Then have it taken out of doors, well
  brushed and rubbed over with a damp cloth.
  The carpet underneath should be well brushed
  before laying it down again. Change the position
  of the drugget a little each time it is relaid, so as
  to ensure equal wear.
  
  To Clean the Hall. - The rugs having been re-
  moved, sweep the floor carefully, keeping the dust
  down as much as possible. Take the dust up in
  a dust-pan and have it burnt. Then allow the
  dust that has risen to settle, and dust all the
  furniture, skirting- boards and doors. If the
  hall is tiled or covered with linoleum, it ought
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  61
  
  
  to be washed once or twice a week, or as often aa
  necessary.
  
  The hall mats should be shaken or beaten out-
  side the back-door if possible, and they must not
  be relaid until the floor is dry. The door-steps
  must be washed every day (see p. 73), and as
  early in the morning as possible. If there is not
  time for much work before breakfast, then the
  steps can be done first and the hall left until
  later in the day. Empty the scraper, and black-
  lead it brightly. Polish all brass door-handles
  and plates ; those inside once a week and those
  outside every day.
  
  Once a week the furniture in the hall should
  be well rubbed up, all brass or other ornaments
  cleaned, gas globes washed, gas bracket dusted,
  and any windows and mirrors cleaned.
  
  Note. - For details of the various operations,
  see under special headings.
  
  THE BATHROOM AND LAVATORY
  
  To Clean Baths. - All baths should be thor-
  oughly well rinsed and wiped out after having
  been used. If the soapy scum which rises on
  the top of the water is allowed to he on them,
  they will be found much more difficult to clean.
  
  Enamelled Baths. - Empty or run out all the
  soapy water, and then let in some clean warm
  water. Take a flannel or soft brush and
  wash the sides and all over with this, using a
  little soft soap, or Sunlight soap if necessary ;
  but if the bath is in constant use this will not
  likely be required every day. If the enamel
  becomes stained or discoloured, dip the flannel
  in a little dry salt before applying it. Rinse
  with clean warm water if soap has been used,
  and then dry rith a cloth. This treatment
  should be sufficient to keep the bath in order,
  but if the enamel becomes very dirty use a
  little Sapolio along with the ordinary soap.
  Care must always be taken not to roughen the
  surface of the enamel, because if once the poUsh
  is spoilt it is much more difficult to keep it in
  order.
  
  A Porcelain Bath can be treated in the same
  way as above, but Brooke's soap may be used
  instead of Sapolio if the ordinary soap and
  water is not sufficient to make it clean.
  
  A Zinc Bath is a little more difficxilt to keep
  in order. It should be washed out as above,
  and, if much soiled, rubbed with a mixture of
  soft soap and Brooke's soap. Shred down some
  Brooke's soap and mix it In a saucer with some
  soft soap. Apply this to the bath with a flannel,
  rubbing it well in, rinse and dry thoroughly.
  Fine bath-brick dust mixed with a little paraffin
  is also an excellent thing for cleaning zinc, but
  it requires a lot of rinsing to get rid of the
  smell.
  
  The Water-closet Pan. - This should be well
  flushed out with water every day and brushed
  round with a special brush, which is kept for
  
  
  9i
  
  
  this purpose only. Then once a week at least
  a good pailful of hot soda-water should be
  poured in and the brush used again.
  
  If the pan has become discoloinred or a coating
  of fiir collected on the sides, empty out as much
  of the cold water as possible and scrub it well
  with sand and soft soap, or use a little coarse
  salt. If this is not sufficient to bring it into
  good condition, dissolve a penny-
  worth of spirits of salt in one quart
  of boiling water ; pour this into
  the pan and allow it to remain
  there for a short time. Then
  brush round vigorously and rinse.
  Care must be taken that the
  mixture does not touch the hands,
  as it is very poisonous and liable
  to burn.
  
  The lavatory brush should, if
  possible, be hung on a nail out-
  side the window. Each lavatory
  should also be pro\aded with a
  towel hung on to a nail by a
  loop.
  
  It is very important that no
  rubbish be put down the lavatory,
  such as bmrnt matches, hair com-
  bings, faded flowers, pieces of
  orange peel, &c. It must be
  remembered that the pipes are
  usually made with a bend, and
  such articles would be Ukely to obstruct them.
  Young servants shovild always be warned against
  throwing any scraps they find in the bedrooms
  into the slop-pail.
  
  The window of the lavatory shoiild always
  be kept open and the door shut.
  
  The Lavatory Basin. - If this is emptied im-
  mediately after use and rinsed with a little cold
  water, it will be easily kept in order. It is
  when dirty soapy water is allowed to remain
  in the basin that it becomes more difficult to
  clean. When necessEiry wash with hot water,
  soap, and a brush, using a little Brooke's soap
  or Sapolio if required for any stains ; rinse with
  cold water and dry with a cloth. Every day
  the taps ought to be dried and rubbed with a
  duster, and twice a week at least they sho\ild be
  polished with a little metal polish to keep them
  bright and shining.
  
  CARE OF CARPETS AND RUGS
  
  To Sweep a Carpet. - In these days of carpet-
  sweepers and suction dust-lifters much of the
  old-fashioned hand -switching has been done
  away with. A carpet-sweeper is now to be seen
  in almost every house, and it is certainly an
  immense saving of labour. The price varies
  from 10s. 6d. upwards. It is quick and simple,
  and takes up the dust where it lies instead of
  raising it to float about the room in an un-
  hygienic way. It must be rolled across the
  
  
  62
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  carpet with even strokes, and there is no occa-
  sion to press too heavily. Care must be taken
  not to use it near heavj' furniture, so as to avoid
  knocking it, and a brush will always be required
  as well to brush all corners and places where
  
  
  Carpet-Sweeper.
  
  the sweeper cannot reach. The sweeper must
  bo emptied each day after use, and any fluff,
  hairs, or thread ends removed from the brushes.
  If attention is not paid to this the sweeper will
  very soon become clogged and out of order.
  
  \V1ieu cleaning a carpet which has a thick pile,
  such as an Axminster, it is better to use a brush
  in preference to a sweeper, as the rollers on the
  latter are liable to leave marks on the soft
  surface.
  
  Patent suction diist-lifters or vacuum cleaners
  are also coming into use, but the really practical
  ones are still much too expensive for the ordinary
  private house.
  
  When none of these patent cleaners are avail-
  able, then a carpet must be swept. It will
  not be necessary to sweep it with a hard broom
  every day ; it will be sufficient
  /''~\^ just to go over it with a short-
  
  ^ \ handled brush and dust-pan,
  taking up any pieces or smface
  dust. Then once a week, or once
  a fortnight, according to how
  much the room is used, the carpet
  must be brushed more thoroughly.
  Cover up or remove as much of
  the furniture as possible. Shut
  down windows and close all doors
  before beginning to brush. Then
  sprinkle the floor all over with
  one of the following : clean bran
  slightly moistened, tea - leaves
  which have been washed and
  drained and mixed with a little
  coarse salt, or cabbage blades
  shred and mixed with coarse salt.
  Any of these will prevent the dust
  from flying about the room un-
  necessarily and also help to freshen the carpet.
  
  Thf n take a carpet broom or switch and brush
  all o\ er the floor with short sharp strokes. Com-
  mence at one of the corners and work methodi-
  cally, sweeping all the dust towards the fli'oplace
  
  
  short-handled
  Brush.
  
  
  or door. Sweep in such a direction as to flatten
  the pile, or tlie cau-pet will have a rough appear-
  ance and be apt to collect dust. The brush
  ought to be turned occasionally so as to wear it
  equally. The dust must be kept together sis
  much &s possible and not sent flying over the
  room. When brushing a tliick pile carpet, such
  as an Axminster or Turkey, be particular to
  brush the way of the pile, or the dust will only
  be swept into it. Collect all the dust together
  in a heap, brush into a shovel and take it away
  to be burnt. Then open the window, and leave
  the room for a short time before doing any
  dusting.
  
  To Revive the Colour. - If the carpet is old and
  somewhat faded, tlie colour may be somewhat
  revived by washing it over with a flannel wrung
  out of ammonia and water ; or if the cai-pet is
  soiled as well, wash over first with carbolic or
  Sunlight soap and water, and rinse with ammonia
  and water.
  
  To Remove Stains. - Ink. - As much as possible
  should at once be absorbed with a piece of
  blotting-paper. Then pour on some fresh milk,
  rub it in, and off, then take some more milk and
  repeat the process, finally wasliing with a little
  clean warm water. If this fails, which may be
  the case if the ink has been on the carpet for
  some time, try Sanitas, or one tea-spoonful of
  oxalic acid mixed in half a teacupful of water.
  
  Grease. - If it is candle grease, remove as
  much as possible with a spoon or bone paper-
  knife ; then place a piece of thick brown or
  blotting-paper over the stain and apply the
  point of a hot iron, allowing the grease to sink
  into the paper. Move the paper and repeat the
  process. Other grease stains may be removed by
  covering them with a paste made of Fuller's earth
  and water. Allow this to remain for twenty-
  four hours and then brush off. Black-lead stsuns
  can also be removed with Fuller's earth.
  
  Chiver's carpet soap is also very good for re-
  moving stains.
  
  To Beat Carpets. - If a carpet has to be beaten
  at home it should be taken into the garden and
  carried as far from the house as possible. If the
  distance cannot be very great, all windows and
  outside doors should be closed while the beating
  is going on to prevent the dust entering the
  house. Hang the carpet over a clothes-line with
  the wrong side out, and beat it well with strong
  canes or carpet- beaters. Care must be taken
  that there are no sharp points in the sticks which
  would be likely to injure the carpet. When the
  wrong side seems clean and no more dust rises,
  turn the carpet and repeat the same process on
  the right side. Then if there is some nice clean
  gresa, spread the carpet over it and sweep off the
  surface-dust with a strong broom. The carpet
  may even be drawn over the grass to freshen it.
  
  Rugs should if possible be taken out of doors
  to be beaten or brushed. If they are too heavy
  to be shaken by hand, they should be hung over
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  63
  
  
  a rope and beaten with a stick, or laid on the
  grass and brushed thoroughly. Wlien there is
  no garden or yard they must be swept in the
  room to which they belong. If much soiled, wa^h
  them over in the same way as carpets.
  
  White Skin Rugs. - If these are large it is wise
  to send them to a professional cleaner to be
  cleaned, as it is too much of an undertaking to
  attempt them at home, and the result is not Ukely
  to be satisfactory. A small skin rug can, how-
  ever, be washed without much trouble. Prepare
  a tub of warm water and make a strong lather
  with melted soap or soap powder, adding
  enough ammonia to make the water smell rather
  strongly. Put the rug into this and knead it well
  with the hands, or put it on to a washing-board
  and brush with a brush. Repeat the process
  in a second soapy water if the first is not sufficient
  to clean the rug. Rinse thoroughly in warm
  soapy water ; put it two or three times through
  the wringing-macliine. It is always better to
  leave a little soap in the skin, as this helps to
  keep it soft. Shake the rug well, in the open
  air if possible, and dry in a good wind or indoors
  in a warm atmosphere, but not too near a fire.
  Whilst drying the rug should be shaken and
  rubbed occasionally to keep the skin soft.
  
  Cocoanut- Fibre Door- Mats. - These should be
  beaten right side downwards, and on a green if
  possible. When very dirty, wash them "with hot
  water and soda and a very strong brush. Then
  dip the brush in salt and water and wash over
  again. The salt will help to keep the fibre stiff.
  
  GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DUSTING
  
  It is very important that aU dust should be
  removed from oior rooms, not only because
  dusty rooms are uncon.fortable and unpleasant
  to look upon, but also because dust is one of the
  sources of disease when we inhale it into our
  lungs.
  
  The first point in dusting is to be provided
  ^vith the proper sort of duster. This should be
  made of some soft material that will gathpr up
  the dust, and something smooth that leaves no
  fluf?. In large families there is generally some
  old material that can be used for the purpose,
  such as remains of old curtains, or print dresses,
  old window-blinds, or even thin bed-covers, which
  have become too shabby to serve their original
  purpose. Cotton is as a rule better than Unen.
  A duster must always be hemmed. A ragged
  duster should never be used for fine work, as it is
  very likely to catch on to some ornament or
  pointed furniture and cause an accident. Old
  dusters can alwaj's be used up in the cleaning of
  grates, brasses, and the like.
  
  It is a good plan when dusting a room to work
  with two dusters, one slightly damp to gather up
  the dust, and the other dry to follow after and
  polish up. The aim in dusting must be to
  remove the dust and not merely to flick it from
  
  
  one part of the room to another. The duster
  ought to be rolled up into a sort of pad, the dust
  collected in it and then shaken out of the window
  from time to time. The work must be done
  on some distinct plan to ensure every part of
  the room having attention. Commence at one
  corner of the room and work steadily round it
  until every article has been dusted. High and
  out-of-reach places should be dusted first, as then
  any dust falling from the upper part will be re-
  moved when the lower part is being done. It
  is not only the tops of fm-niture and the places
  that are seen that require dusting, the backs of
  chairs, chair and table legs, the ledges of wains-
  coting, and other out-of-the-way places all
  require attention. When dusting a chimney-
  piece or table where small ornaments, &c., aje
  placed, Mft each article separately, dust it and
  also the surface tmderneath it before laying it
  down again. A furnitiu-e brush should be used
  for the dusting of ornamental fiu-niture.
  
  THE CJLEANING OF FURNITURE
  
  All furniture requires regular dusting to keep
  it in good order. A soft duster is necessary ;
  in fact, it is best when dusting and polishing
  to work with two dusters, one with which to hold
  the article of furniture, and the other to do the
  dusting and rubbing up. A soft brush will be a
  help for any twisted or ornamental parts.
  
  Upholstered fui-niture will also require a
  brush, and especial attention must be given to
  the crevices, and folds and buttons on chairs.
  Furniture brushes can be bought in many
  
  
  Kurniture Brushes.
  
  different patterns, and it is as well to choose
  the one that is best suited to the work to be
  done.
  
  It must be remembered when dusting and
  rubbing up furniture that more can be done by
  plenty of " elbow grease " than by any amount
  of furnitvu-e polish ; in fact, this latter is often
  used in far too lavish a manner.
  
  
  64
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  In addition to the regular dusting a more
  thorough cleaning and rubbing up will be re-
  quired at periodic intervals, and then some
  furniture polish may be applied. This may
  be prepared at home in one of the following
  ways : -
  
  (1) Put into a bottle equal quantities of
  boiled linseed oil and brown vinegar - shake
  together and use as required. This is very
  simple and very good.
  
  (2) Take equal quantities of linseed oil, tur-
  pentine, brown v-inegar and methylated spirits
  and mix all together in a bottle.
  
  :Many other formulas might be given, and
  melted bees' -wax is a very favourite ingredient,
  but although a good thing it requires an amount
  of very hard rubbing to remove the effect of
  its sticky properties. Furniture polishes may be
  bought ready prepared, and many of these are so
  good and so inexpensive that it is just a question
  whether it is worth one's while to go to the
  trouble of making one's own.
  
  Furniture polish must never be used until the
  furniture has been well dusted, or it will smear
  and clog. Shake the bottle before beginning,
  and apply a little with a flannel or soft cotton
  pad. Rub it well into the wood, and evenly
  according to the grain. It should never be used
  in excess. Afterwards rub off with a soft duster
  and polish with a second duster or chamois
  leather.
  
  When working with furnitxare polish be carefxil
  to place the bottle where it is not likely to be
  knocked over.
  
  At spring-cleaning time, or at least once a year,
  most furniture will be improved by being washed
  before polishing.
  
  Mahogany Furniture should be washed either
  with cold tea or with vinegar and water. Use
  a soft flannel or sponge for the plain pieces and
  a soft brush for any carved or ornamental parts.
  Dry and then polish as above.
  
  Oak Furniture. - A little warm beer is the best
  thing for washing this, as it improves the colovu".
  This is better than soap and water, and especially
  for old oak, as soap would spoil the appear-
  ance of the wood. When dry, polish with
  furniture cream.
  
  Highly Polished Furniture should be washed
  with methylated spirits and water. Put two
  table -spoonfuls of methylated spirits into three
  broakfast-cupfuls of warm water, wring a small
  sponge out of this and weish the furnitvire all
  over. Dry and polish with a chamois leather.
  No further polishing will be necessary.
  
  Pitch-Pine Furniture may be washed with warm
  water and a little soap, but care must be taken
  not to make it too wet.
  
  Stains on Furniture. - White Stains, which are
  duo to hot dishes having been placed upon the
  wood, can bo removed with spirits of camphor.
  Rub well in with a soft rag and then polish the
  wood in the usual way. Ink Stains can be
  
  
  removed by rubbing them with a little oxalio
  acid. Do not spread the acid over the wood
  more than is necessary. A cork is a good thing
  to use for the application. Wash off with warm
  water and then polish.
  
  Upholstered Furniture. - To clean this thor-
  oughly it should be well beaten and brushed in
  the open air. If the material with wliich it is
  covered becomes soiled and dirty, it may be
  considerably restored by rubbing it over with
  warm bran or fig-dust, which can be bought
  from any corn -dealers. Benzine will probably
  remove any obstinate stains.
  
  Leather Chairs. - These can be washed when
  dirty simply with soap and tepid water. Rub
  very Ughtly with a sponge, and then wipe off the
  soap and dry with a soft cloth. Very Uttle water
  must be used. When dry, poUsh with the
  Unseed oil and vinegar polish, or with an
  application of wliite of egg slightly beaten.
  
  White Wiclcer Chairs. - Wash with soap and
  warm water and a soft brush. Rinse off the
  soap, and rub the cane over with equal quantities
  of lemon juice and water, or with a pennyworth
  of oxalic acid mixed in two cupfuls of water ;
  this will help to whiten the cane. Put the
  chairs in the open air to dry.
  
  Grease stains may be removed from wicker
  by rubbing them with a little methylated spirits.
  
  FIRES AND FIREPLACES
  
  Before beginning to lay a fire or clean a grate,
  the hearth-rug, if there is one, should be rolled
  up and put on one side and a hearth- cloth
  laid down over the carpet. Any coarse close
  material will do for this, such as sacking, tick,
  or an old cretonne curtain ; but care must be
  taken to spread always the clean side next the
  carpet.
  
  Have at hand everything that will be required
  for the cleaning of the grate and the laying of
  the fire. Some old newspaper, dry sticks, and
  a supply of small coal ; a sweep's brush or
  grate brush, a small shovel, black-lead or other
  stove polish, with brushes for putting it on and
  polishing ; one or two dusters, the necessary
  materials for cleaning steel or brass, and a pair
  of gloves. The best plan is to keep all these
  in readiness in a housemaid's box, which is
  usually fitted with small divisions for keeping
  the different requisites, and is sometimes pro-
  vided with a cinder-sifter as well. A pair of
  gloves should always be worn, as there is nothing
  worse than black-lead for the hands, and there
  is no occasion to have them unnecessarily
  spoilt.
  
  First remove the fire-irons and place them on
  the hearth-cloth. Then clean out the fiireplace,
  using a piece of stick for the purpose, as this
  will make leas noise than the poker. Be careful
  to make as Uttle dust as possible. Next brush
  the back of the grate and inside the fireplace
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  65
  
  
  ■with the sweep's brush, and remove all ashes and
  cinders. The latter must be reserved for lajdng
  the fire, or if there are too many,
  biu-nt in the kitchen or boiler
  stove. The grate must now be
  thoroughly dusted before any
  black-leading or poHshing takes
  place.
  
  If the stove requires black-
  leading, apply a very little black-
  lead that has been moistened with
  water and a few drops of ttirpen-
  tine, by means of the black-lead
  brush. Or instead of black-lead
  a specially prepared stove polish
  may be used, such as Nixelene or
  EnameHne; and this is almost
  simpler and cleaner, as there is
  no danger of it being splashed
  over any siu:rounding tiles, or
  even on the carpet. Brush oS
  with a poUshing brush, and then
  finish ofi with a firm polisher. There is no
  occasion to use much black-lead or poUsh ; in
  fact, if a stove is in constant use, it will not
  likely be required every day ; a rub up with
  the polisliing brushes will be stifficient, except
  
  
  Sweei)^s Brush.
  
  
  Black-lead Brushes.
  
  perhaps once a week when the room is having
  a more thorough cleaning.
  
  The bajs of the grate wUl always require a
  little extra attention, and may reqiiire to be
  blackened more often.
  
  Next lay the fire. Many people never succeed
  in lajdng a fire that will burn well, because they
  pack it too tightly and do not leave enough space
  for the air to get through between the paper and
  sticks. Conunence by laying a few cinders at
  
  
  the foot of the grate with some lightly crumpled
  paper on the top. Next place in some sticks
  crossways, allowing some of the ends to rest on
  the bars of the grate, and then some more large
  cinders or small pieces of coal on the top. The
  fire should be made to slope backwards, so that
  when it is first hghted the smoke will not blow
  into the room. Fire-lighters may be used
  instead of ordinary sticks ; they are resined and
  burn up very quickly.
  
  If the front and sides of the grate are tiled,
  rub these over daily with a duster, and occasion-
  ally wash them with a flannel wrung out of warm
  water and a little sunlight soap ; rinse, dry with
  cloth, and polish with a chamois leather. If
  the tUes are stained, a httle Sapolio rubbed on
  the flannel and appUed rather dry will gene-
  rally remove the marks ; then wash over and
  finish as before. Do not use too much water
  when doing the cleaning, as it will be Uable to
  sink into the cement and ultimately loosen the
  tiles.
  
  Then finally clean the fender curb and fire-
  irons. If these are of brass, copper or steel, it
  will be s\ifiicient to rub them well with a dry
  duster or chamois leather each day, and to give
  them a more thorough cleaning, say once a
  week. (See cleaning of brass, steel or copper,
  p. 72.) If they are made partly of iron and
  partly of steel, &c., the iron part may be brushed
  over with the pohshing brushes, or a little
  Brunswick black may be used to the fender if it
  becomes very shabby. Black-lead must on no
  account be put on the handles of fire-irons.
  
  If an iron grate is not to be used for some time,
  it is a good plan to rub it up with a little Pvonuk ;
  this will not only keep it looking bright, but will
  prevent rust. Directions for use are given with
  each tin.
  
  If by any chance the grate has become rusty,
  rub well with a mixture of bath-brick dust and
  paraffin, then wash off and dry before polisliing.
  Grates that are seldom used are sometimes
  painted with Brunswick black to keeo them in
  good condition.
  
  CARE OF CHIMNEYS
  
  Chimney on Fire. - This can to a large extent
  be prevented by keeping the chimneys clean.
  Every chimney should be swept once or twice
  a year at least, and oftener if the fireplace is
  in constant use. Kitchen chimneys should bo
  swept oftener ; throe or four times a yeai' will not
  be too much if large fires are kept burning daily.
  
  In addition to the thorough cleaning given by
  the sweep, any soot which accumulates near the
  fireplace should be swept away with the sweep's
  brush when the different grates ai'e cleaned.
  
  If the chimney should catch fire the first thing
  to do is to close the door and •n-indow to prevent
  a strong current of air from increasing the flames.
  Then throw over the fire a few handf uls of salt,
  
  E
  
  
  66
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  ■when it will as a rvile burn itself out in a very
  short time.
  
  HOW TO SCRUB A ROOM
  
  The room must first be cleeired of as much
  furniture as convenient, and all rugs and pieces
  of carpet rolled up and put on one side. Then
  sweep the room with a soft broom, and remove
  aH the dust in a shovel.
  
  Have readj- a kneeUng-mat, a pail of warm
  water, a scrubbing brush, a piece of house
  flannel or a swab, and a little soft soap.
  
  Commence at the corner of the room farthest
  from the door. Wring the flannel out of the
  
  
  Scrubbing- Brush.
  
  ■water, and wet as much of the boards as the
  arm can conveniently reach. Put a httle soap
  on the brush and scrub each piece thoroughly
  backwsurds and forwards, and -with the grain of
  the wood. This loosens the dirt, and it is now
  important to have it removed. Wring the
  flannel again out of the water and wipe the
  portion of board that was scrubbed until all the
  soap is gathered up ; then dry with a coarse
  cloth. Do not make the boards wetter than is
  necessary to make them clean, especially if it is
  a floor that has a ceiUng underneath, and change
  the water as soon as it becomes dirty. Work
  methodically over every paxt of the floor until
  all is finished.
  
  If the wood is greasy, a little soda may be added
  to the water, and when washing boards that are
  much soiled a little sand used along with the
  soap win be a help. A bad stain can be usually
  removed from a floor by spreading it with a
  paste made of Fuller's earth and hot water,
  allowing it to remain overnight and then washing
  off.
  
  When finished, allow a good current of air to
  pass through the room to dry it ; or on a damp
  day it is better to have a fire burning, more
  especially if it is a bedroom or a room that will
  be used immediately.
  
  
  CARE OF POLISHED FLOORS
  
  These should bo swept and dusted every day.
  First remove as much as possible of the surface
  dust with a soft short-handled broom and dust-
  pan, or, if there is a large surface of flooring
  under treatment, a long broom can bo used.
  Then rub the floor with a dry duster, or what is
  
  
  better still, with a floor-duster. If there is much
  polished flooring to be kept in order, it is very
  important that the worker should not do it on
  
  
  Floor-Duster.
  
  her knees. Then once a week the floor should be
  pohshed.
  
  To Prepare Floor Polish. - Shred down I lb.
  bees' -wax, and put it into a jar v/ith ^ pint
  turpentine ; allow tliis to melt slowly in the oven
  or on the side of the stove, stirring occasionally
  with a wooden stick.
  
  Rub a httle of this on to the floor ■with a piece
  of flannel and then poUsh with a pad, which can
  be bought for the purpose, or ■with a floor-
  poUsher.
  
  Special floor poUshes can also be bought pre-
  pared, such as Ronuk, Jackson's C&mphorated
  
  
  Floor-Polisher.
  
  Pohsh, &c., and the use of one of these would of
  course save the trouble of making, but 't would
  come a little more expensive than the simple
  bees' -wax and tiurpentine.
  
  TO CLEAN LINOLEUM OR FLOOR-CLOTH
  
  Much washing and scrubbing is bad for the
  ordinary linoleum. It should be well swept
  every day, and only washed when necessary.
  Take a pail of warm water, some plain yellow
  soap, and a piece of house flannel, and wash the
  hnoleum with this. Wring out the flannel and
  take up as much of the moisture as possible.
  Then dry with a clean dry towel. If the linoleum
  is very dirty and requires a brush, then a soft one
  only must be used. The use of soda, ammonia,
  or washing powders must be avoided.
  
  
  ....r^
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK
  
  
  67
  
  
  Greenwich Linoleum, which has the pattern
  all the way through, can be washed with warm
  water, a flannel, and a little Brook's soap. This
  revives the colour and makes it look like new.
  To give the linoleum a more finished appearance,
  it may be rubbed over with a little skimmed milk
  after washing and finished with a dry cloth ; or
  with a httle glue water made thus : - Take one
  ounce of glue powder or shredded glue, dissolve
  it in one pint of boiling water and allow it to
  melt, stirring occasionally with a stick. The
  linoleum may of course be pohshed if a brighter
  gloss is desired. (See Polished Floors, p. 66.)
  
  Indian Matting. - This should be washed on the
  floor with a strong solution of salt and water and
  then dried quickly with a soft cloth. Or, if it
  becomes very much soiled, take it up and scrub
  with soap and water and a moderately hard
  brush. Rinse on both sides and dry with a
  cloth or in the open air. If there are stains on
  the matting a little ammonia might be added to
  the water or some benzine applied to the spot.
  
  Care of Tiled Floors. - Sweep every day with a
  soft broom ; and once or twice a week, or oftener
  if necessary, wash them over with soap and
  water. Take some water in a pail and add to it
  a little soap powder or melted soap. Use either
  a house flannel or brush to wash with. If the
  tiles are very dirty a brush will be required.
  Rinse oS the soap, and then make as dry as
  possible with the flannel. A little Brook's soap
  or Sapolio will be useful for removing any stains.
  If it is desired to have a poUsh on the tiles, they
  may be rubbed over with a little milk after
  washing, or with Unseed oil and turpentine mixed
  in equal quantities.
  
  THE MAKING AND CABE OF BEDS
  
  However well chosen and hygienic a bed may
  be, if it is not well made, the cornfort of it will be
  greatly reduced, if not altogether spoilt.
  
  A bed must be thoroughly well aired every day
  for an hour at least before making. The windows
  of the bedroom should first be thi'own open top
  and bottom, the bed-curtains drawn back, if
  there are any, then the clothes stripped oS the
  bed one at a time and placed over the back of
  a chair or chairs. The pillows and bolster must
  be well shaken and beaten, and placed near the
  open window if possible, and then the mattress
  raised on its two ends so as to form an arch for the
  air to pass through. If there is a feather mat-
  tress, this should be laid over the end of the bed.
  
  In making a bed individual taste should always
  be considered. Some like all the surplus length
  of blanket doubled over at the top, while others
  like the covering only to reach to the shoulders ;
  and in the case of a feather-bed some like the bed
  made so as to slope towards the foot, and others
  prefer it perfectly flat, and so on. These may
  appear fads, but it entails no extra trouble to
  givo in to them - only a little thought; and
  
  
  attention to these small details may add very
  much to the comfort and real repose of the
  sleeper.
  
  It is always better and more expeditious if two
  people can be engaged in the making of the beds ;
  and needless to say their hands should be spot-
  lessly clean, and they should each wear a clean
  apron or overall.
  
  The mattress must be turned each morning
  - one day from top to bottom, and the next
  from side to side - so as to ensure equal wear.
  
  If there is a feather-bed, it must be thoroughly
  shaken to prevent lumps. Take the two op-
  posite corners and shake the feathers towards
  the centre, then the other two corners and do
  the same, and next the sides. When the feathers
  seem perfectly hght and free from lumps,
  smooth the mattress over, being particular to
  fill the corners with feathers. If any feathers
  shovdd come out during the process, it will
  generally be from a hole in the seam, and this
  should at once be attended to and sewn together
  with a needle and cotton.
  
  In laying the clothes on the bed each article
  must be put on separately, and not thrown on in
  a mass to save time. They must be put on
  evenly, allowing the same amount to come over
  each side of the bed and be tucked in all round.
  It is also most important to have them free from
  wrinkles or folds of any kind.
  
  When the mattress is arranged, next put on
  the binder or under-blanket. This should be
  wide enough to tuck in well at the sides of the
  bed, when it will hold the mattress together and
  make the bed smoother and more comfortable.
  The under-sheet is now put on and tucked in all
  round, and the bolster laid on the top at the
  head of the bed, unless no bolster-sHp is used,
  when the under-sheet must be left long enough
  to fold over the bolster and completely cover it,
  but this is not such a comfortable arrangement.
  Next, place on the top sheet with the wrong side
  uppermost, and the widest hem at the top to
  turn over the blankets. On the top of the
  sheets lay the blankets with the open end at the
  top (as it is easy then to throw off one fold if the
  occupant of the bed should find it too hot).
  Then a coverlet or sheet should cover all, and
  must be light in weight, as it is meant for night
  use. This should be turned in over the blankets
  at the top, and the end of the sheet tm-ned over
  it; the blankets are thus preserved from dust,
  and the bed has a more inviting appearance
  when it is turned down for the night. Then
  slip in the pillow or pillows on the top of the
  bolster without flattening them down, and on a
  double bed place the opening of the sHp to the
  inside of the bed. Lastly may be put on a
  pretty counterpane, which is removed at night.
  This should not be tucked in, but allowed to hang
  over the sides in graceful folds. If there is a
  centre pattern, be sure that tins comes to the
  centre of the bed, and any surplus length may bo
  
  
  68
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  laid in folds at the foot. If carefully folded up
  at night and eJways in the same folds, the
  counterpane will keep clean for quite a long
  time, and it adds very much to the dfiinty appear-
  once of the bedroom during the day.
  
  If an eider-dowTi is used it should be rolled up
  or folded double at the foot of the bed. Those
  •who like warmth without weight will find it a
  great advantage to make the bed with the eider-
  down between the upper sheet and the blankets.
  The warmth is thereby sensibly increased, and
  if the eider-down is well ventilated it is not
  unliealthy.
  
  If pillow shams and sheet shams are used,
  the pillows should be placed on the outside of
  the counterpane during tlie day, and the sheet
  sham slipped under the bed-clothes and arranged
  so that the embroidered edge rests on the
  counterpane.
  
  If there are curtains, draw these back and
  arrange the ends neatly on the pillows.
  
  Turning down a Bed. - First remove the
  eider-down ; tlien take off the counterpane and
  sheet and pillow shams, if there are such, and
  fold all these up very carefully, and place them
  where they will not be crushed nor sat upon.
  Then turn down the clothes about a foot or a
  foot and a half at the top of the bed, and one
  corner, or two corners if it is a double bed, may
  be turned back again towards the centre, but
  this is a matter of taste. It is also a question of
  taste whether the clothes be left tucked in at
  the sides or loosened. Let down and draw any
  curtains. See that pillows are nice and smooth
  and all straight and even, and then replace the
  eider-down, spreading it out over the bed this
  time.
  
  Care of Beds. - The strictest cleanliness must
  be observed as regards beds, not merely in
  the changing of the linen, but in the bed itself
  and everything about it.
  
  One hears of beds the spars of which are
  never dusted except at the annual period of
  spring cleaning, and sometimes not even then.
  We ought to remember that the dust in our
  houses, and especially in our bedrooms, is not
  only earth dust, soot, fraying of carpets and
  curtains, &c., but that there is a large admixture
  of animal matter, for our outer skin or cuticle
  is constantly peeling off and being removed ; and
  added to that, this dust if not removed becomes
  impregnated with noxious gases exhaled from our
  lungs and from the pores of our bodies, and
  poisons the air we breathe, thereby greatly
  lessening the beneficial effects of sleep. Every
  part of the bedstead should be carefully dusted
  once a week, a small brush being used if neces-
  sary. The best time for this will be before the
  bed is made on the day the room is thoroughly
  cleaned.
  
  ITie bedstead itself, and especially the under-
  part, should bo washed with warm water and
  carbolic soap at least once a year. If at any
  
  
  time insects should appear, the bedstead should
  be rubbed over with paraflSn or very strong
  ammonia.
  
  Japanned bedsteads may be revived by rub-
  bing them over with a little paraffin, and then
  poUshing with a leather or soft duster.
  
  Brass bedsteads should bo dusted daily, and
  occasionally rubbed over with a little sweet oil
  and polished with a leather. Metal polish
  should not be used, as the brass is lacquered.
  If this wears off it will reqxiire special treat-
  ment.
  
  If the mattresses and pillows have been
  covered with cotton slips (see p. 258), it is very
  easy to have these taken off and washed as soon
  as they become soiled. The bedding can then
  be thoroughly brushed and beaten, special
  attention being paid to the edges and to the
  little corners where the mattress is tacked down.
  If this can be done out of doors, so much the
  better.
  
  The mattresses ought to be taken to pieces
  and re- made every few years - not merely because
  they will, even with the most careful treatment,
  eventually form into hard lumps and hollows,
  but because they will really require to be pvu-ified
  from animal matter. Although it is possible to
  do this at home, this course is scarcely to be
  recommended. It is much wiser and simpler to
  send them to a good upholsterer.
  
  Blankets, too, must be washed or cleaned when-
  ever they require it. Once or t'wice a year will
  be sufficient under ordinary circumstances, pro-
  vided they have proper care in the way of airing,
  shaking, and being kept covered from dust ; but
  if they have been used in the case of illness they
  must of course be washed specially, and if thљ
  illness is an infectious one, disinfected as well.
  
  EMPTYING OF SLOPS AND CARE OF
  THE WASH-STAND
  
  The appliances necessary for tliis portion of
  household work are : a slop-pail, a can of
  boiling water in which a little soda has been
  dissolved, a small mop,
  two slop-cloths, and a
  glass- towel. The slop-
  pail used for carrying
  about is best made of
  enamelled tin, as it is
  easily kept in order and
  there is no danger of its
  breaking. It should al-
  ways bo fitted with a lid.
  
  The slop-cloths should
  be of some thin open
  material, which can be
  washed and dried easily. RIop-Pail.
  
  One must be used for the basin and wash-stand
  and the second for the chamber and bedroom
  slop-pail. It is important to keep each cloth
  for its special purpose.
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  69
  
  
  Commence by emptjdng everytliing into the
  slop-pail. Pour a little of the hot soda-water
  into the chamber, and aUow it to remain there
  while the wash-stand is being put in order.
  
  Rinse out the basin with clean water, using a
  little of the soda-water if necessary to remove any
  stain or soap-suds. Then pour a little clean
  water into the basin and rinse the tumbler and
  water-bottle, and dry them with the glass-towel.
  
  Next rinse any sponges or loofahs, &c., and
  either hang them up to dry or place them in a
  sponge basket. Then pour out the water, and
  wipe the basin thoroughly with its special cloth.
  Empty the ewer and wash it out if necessary.
  If rain water is used there is frequently a con-
  siderable amount of sediment which settles at
  the foot of the jug.
  
  Wipe also the wash-stand, Ufting each article
  and wiping it clean. Pay particidar attention
  to the soap-dish.
  
  Wash the chamber with the mop, using the
  water that has been standing in it ; rinse and
  dry with the special cloth. If there is a slop-pail
  belonging to the room, empty this also, wash
  with hot water, using the mop. Then rinse
  with cold, and dry with the chamber cloth.
  
  Finally fill up the ewer and water-bottle with
  fresh water. The former with soft water if
  available, and the latter with drinking water.
  It is very important that the ewer should be
  quite emptied every day ; if old water is allowed
  to remain and just a little fresh added, the
  water will very soon begin to smell. So let it all
  be jresh.
  
  Cover the slop-pail before taking it from the
  room, and have the contents emptied at once.
  Care too must be taken to keep tliis pail very
  clean and fresh. It should be rinsed out every
  day with hot soda-wa.er; rinsed, dried, and
  then left with the lid off to air. The lid should
  have the same treatment, and then be hung up
  until required again.
  
  The two slop- cloths should be washed every
  day and hung up to dry. The glass-towel if
  properly used ought to last a week.
  
  Once a week, usually on the day the bedroom
  is being turned out, the wash-stand, &c., wiU
  require a more thorough cleaning.
  
  The ware should be taken out of the room if
  possible and well washed in the housemaid's
  pantry or bath-room. Use hot water and a
  little paraffin soap or soap-powder. Pay par-
  ticular attention to the handles of ewer and
  chamber, and use sniall brush for the corners, if
  necessary. The inside of the ewer too must be
  washed as well as the outside, and a little soda-
  water may be required to remove discoloration.
  
  If the water-bottle has become stained and
  dim, it ought to have special treatment. (See
  p. 75.)
  
  Wash the wash-stand with a little soap and
  water, using a washing flannel or soft brush ;
  wipe off the soap and rub up with a towel. Then
  
  
  replace the ware, and supply with water and
  soap too if required.
  
  TO CLEAN WALLS AND CEILINGS
  
  Papered Walls, when they become dirty,
  should be thorouglily dusted. To do this, tie
  a clean soft duster over the head of a long-
  handled broom. Any soft broom will do, pro-
  vided the wall is not very high, in which case
  it is almost necessary to have a special waU-
  broom, or Turk's-head broom, which has a
  jointed bamboo handle,
  and can be shortened or
  lengthened as required.
  Sweep every part of the
  wall, moving the brush
  up and down in long
  straight lines, and be
  particxilar to remove all
  dust from any cornice or
  mouldings. The duster
  must be changed when
  it becomes dirty.
  
  If the paper has still a
  soiled appearance after
  dusting, it may be
  further improved by
  rubbing it all over with
  stale bread. Cut a
  plain dry loaf in four
  pieces, and rub the
  paper aU over with it.
  It will be necessary to
  mount on a pair of
  
  steps to do this. Commence at one of the top
  corners and rub with Ught even strokes, under-
  taking about a yard at a time. There is no need
  to rub very hard ; too much vigoiir would only
  destroy the surface of the paper. Go over each
  piece in a careful methodical way, and in the order
  most convenient to yourself. This manner of
  cleaning will make a considerable difference to
  dirty wall-paper.
  
  The ceiling of a room can be cleaned in the
  same way, and special attention must be given to
  the corners, where cobwebs so frequently lodge.
  
  Varnished Paper and Painted Walls may be
  washed ajter dusting. Take a pail of tepid water,
  and add to it enough melted soap to make a
  hght lather. Use a sponge, and wash the wall
  all over with this. Then carefully remove the
  soap with a second sponge or chamois leather
  wrung out of clear cold water. Leave the wall
  to dry without any further wiping.
  
  TO CLEAN WINDOWS
  
  Windows must never be cleaned in frosty
  weather, as the glass is then very brittle and
  would be liable to break as soon as moisture
  were appUed. Choose a dull di-y day when the
  sun is not shining upon them.
  
  
  Turk's-head Broom.
  
  
  70
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Painter's Brash.
  
  
  First dust the windows inside and out, axid
  also the woodwork surrovinding them. A
  painter's brush or any other soft brush is the
  best thing for the purpose. Then take some
  tepid water and add enough liquid ammonia to
  it to make it smell slightly, or a small quantity
  of paraffin. Wring a sponge or chamois leather
  out of tliis and wash over the
  window with it, paying particular
  attention to the sides and corners.
  Finish off with a linen duster
  or a dry chamois leather. No
  material of a fluffy nature must
  be used. Clean soft newspaper
  makes a very good polisliing-pad.
  Commence always at the top and
  work downwards.
  
  Paint or other stains can bo
  removed from the glass with a
  little vinegar or oxaUc acid.
  
  Various powders are now sold
  for cleaning windows without
  water, and these in many cases
  are found quite satisfactory.
  Directions for use are given with
  each special make.
  
  It must be remembered that
  no woman is allowed to sit or
  stand outside an upstairs window
  in order to clean it ; so that for large windows
  wliich cannot be cleaned from the inside, it
  will be necessary to employ a man. These
  men usually bring their own apparatus. The
  usual charge for cleaning is about 2d. a
  window.
  
  TO CLEAN BLINDS
  
  Venetian Blinds. - These ought to be thor-
  oughly dusted once a week. Let the blinds down,
  and by means of a pair of steps, dust all the
  webbing and the cords. Then with a soft duster
  dust each lath separately. Commence at the
  top and work downwards. Do one side first,
  all the way down, then turn the blind and dust
  the other side. Put the duster over the finger
  and rub well round the cords where they pass
  through the laths.
  
  Once a year, or even oftener, Venetian blinds
  should be washed. Take a basin or small pail
  of warm water in which a little soap and borax
  have been dissolved, wring a sponge out of this,
  and wash each lath separately. Then di[> the
  sponge into clean warm water and rub the soap
  off the wood. Dry with a soft towel. Or, if
  found ea-^ier, the laths may be removed. To do
  tliis, undo the knot at the foot of the cord which
  runs through the blind. Then pull out the cord
  and remove the laths. Wash them as above,
  and when thoroughly dry, put them back in
  thi ir place and lace the cord through them.
  
  Linen or Holland Blinds. - These should be
  dusted weekly. Let the blind down as far as it
  
  
  will go and with a soft duster wipe it well on both
  sides. Dust also the cord and roller.
  
  To clean them more thoroughly they should be
  taken down, laid flat on a table and well dusted
  on both sides. Then take some stale bread or
  bran, and rub this lightly and quickly all over
  the material. Dust off with a clean duster. If
  this is not sufficient to clean them, they will
  require to be washed. Unless the blinds are
  small in size, it is not wise to attempt this at
  home, as they really require special washing to
  give them a good gloss and keep them in shape.
  
  TO WASH PAINT
  
  Dust the paint first, using a soft brush for
  the purpose, as this is less likelj- to drive the
  dirt into the wood than a cloth. Then have
  ready at hand a pail of warm soft water, to
  wliich a little dissolved soap has been added,
  and a soft flannel ; a second pail of cold or tepid
  water with a sponge, and a soft cloth or chamois
  leather for drying. Wring the flannel out of
  the soapy water, and wash the paint gently with
  it. Do not use the flannel too wet, and be careful
  to avoid splashing the surrounding wall. Then
  rinse off the dirty soap with the sponge and
  tepid water, and this will prevent the wood having
  a smeary appearance. Finish off with the dry
  cloth or leather.
  
  Do not wet too much of the paint at one time ;
  if there is a large quantity of woodwork to be
  done iL will be a great advantage if two can be
  engaged at the work; one to wash, and the
  second to follow and do the rinsing and drjang.
  The water must be changed as soon as it becomes
  dirty.
  
  For varnished paint use tepid water only ; in
  fact for any paint care must be taken not to
  have the water too hot.
  
  Soda must never be used, but a little borax
  may be added with safety to water that is hard.
  Care must be taken, too, that the soap used is
  of a pure and simple kind. Good yellow soap,
  mottled soap, or carbolic soap are to be recom-
  mended. Then as regards the flannel, the
  ordinary house flannel is too rough, and house-
  keepers would do well to save up any pieces of
  old flannel, woven under-garments, old b'ankets,
  &c., for this purpose. The towels, too, that aro
  used must not be of a fluffy nature ; old huck-
  aback bedroom towels are excellent for the
  purpose.
  
  The woodwork in a house should bo washed at
  least twice a year. Flics and other insects lay
  their eggs along the crevices of doors andwindows,
  and by keeping these clean we can do much to
  avoid the arrival of these unwelcome visitors.
  Finger-marks and other marks should, of course,
  be removed as need arises ; a little benzine
  applied on a flannel, or simply a gentle rub with
  a soapy sponge, will be sufficient. All hard rub-
  bing must be avoided.
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  71
  
  
  White Enamel Paint. - The following is a very
  good preparation for cleaning this special kind
  of paint : -
  
  Take one gill of vinegar, one gill paraffin, and
  half -gill linseed oil, and shake them together in a
  bottle. Apply this to the paint with a clean
  sponge or soft flannel and the result will be
  excellent. No washing is required.
  
  
  TO CLEAN MARBLE
  
  When marble is in good condition, it can be
  kept in order by simply washing it with soap and
  water, rinsed off and then dried. This would
  apply to marble wash-stands and slabs which are
  in frequent use.
  
  A chimney-piece which is not cleaned so often
  may require a httle stronger treatment. Dust
  it first, and in this case a Uttle shredded Brook's
  soap or SapoUa used along with ordinary yellow
  soap or soft soap will be efficacious, and a
  brush should be used for any ornamental
  parts. Al"7avs rinse off the soap, and take a
  second water if necessary. Dry with a cloth
  and polish with a chamois leather. Black or
  grey marble may be rubbed over with a
  little linseed oil after washing to give it a
  gloss.
  
  If the marble is stained, the appearance of it
  may be improved by the following treatment : -
  Take 1 oz. powdered chalk, 1 oz. powdered
  pumice-stone and 2 ozs. soda - pound these
  together and pass them through a sieve. Then
  make them into a paste with boiling water, and
  spread this over the marble, especially over the
  stained parts. Allow it to remain overnight,
  and wash off as before.
  
  Another way of cleaning marble is to coat it
  all over with a layer of thick hot-water starch
  (see p. 280). This starch penetrates in+o all
  the cre%'ices and absorbs the surface dirt. Wlien
  dry it will scale off in large pieces, bringing the
  dirt away with it. Then wash with soap and
  water and dry as before.
  
  Oxalic acid, too, will sometimes remove a stain,
  but it must be rubbed on and washed o2 again
  very quickly, as it will discolour the marble if
  allowed to remain. If a stain is very deep-
  seated the only sure way of eradicating it is to
  have the marble repolished.
  
  Marble Statuary should be washed with soap
  and water only. Sunlight or paraffin soap is
  good, but nothing of a gritty nature must be
  used. The washing should be done with soft
  brushes, small ones being used for any corners
  or intricate parts. The water must be changed
  whenever it becomes dirty, and care must be
  taken t(. rinse off all soap. Allow the marble
  to dry, and then polish with a leather or soft diy
  brush.
  
  Marble statuary may also be eleaned with a
  paste of starch as above.
  
  
  TO CLEAN PICTURES
  
  The Glass. - To clean the glass of pictures,
  dust it first with a soft silk or muslin duster.
  Then put one tablespoonful of methylated
  spirits into a small basin of warm water (about
  two breakfast-cupfuls), wring a sponge out of
  this and wash the picture glass all over. Be
  careful not to wet the frame when cleaning the
  corners and edges. Pay particular attention to
  any fly-marks or other stains. Then dry with
  a fine towel and polish with a chamois leather.
  
  Oil-Paintings. - These require very careful
  treatment. They should be dusted frequently
  with an old silk handkerchief or feather brush,
  but if the latter is used one must make sure
  there are no sharp pieces of quill or wire fasten-
  ings which might scratch the canvas. The
  picture must be taken down to be cleaned
  thoroughly. First of aU it should be dusted,
  back and front. Then sponge the oil-painting
  very carefully with a fine sponge or piece of
  cotton-wool wrung out of lukewarm water.
  Soap must on no account be used. Rub the
  svirface over Ughtly and quickly, and do not
  allow it to remain wet longer than is needful.
  Dry with a fine cloth or chamois leather. This
  can of course only be done to oil-paintings that
  have a coating of varnish over them, as it is the
  varnish only that will bear the washing. If
  this gets rubbed or worn off, the picture must
  be dusted only. If an oil-painting becomes
  very much discoloured and dirty through age,
  it is better to send it to an expert to have
  scientific treatment, as trying different things
  at home might easily end in injuring the picture.
  
  Brass Picture-Chains. - These become very
  dirty after they have been exposed to the atmos-
  phere for some time, but they can be made to
  look quite fresh again by the following treat-
  ment : - Brush them first with a soft brush, so
  as to remove as much of the dust as possible.
  Then plunge them into a pail of boiling water
  to which a good handful of soda has been added,
  and allow them to remain until that is cold.
  Next wash them in clean hot water with soap
  and a brush, rinse and hang them up to dry.
  Finally they may have a rub with the chamois
  leather.
  
  Gilt Picture-Frames. - If the frames are made
  of inferior gilt they wiU not endure much clean-
  ing. Dust them carefully with a soft brush, and
  if the gilt has chipped off in places it may be
  touched up with a little gold paint, which can be
  bought at any oil-shop.
  
  To clean good English gilt frames, dust them
  first with a soft brush or silk handkerchief, then
  wash gently with a small fine sponge wrung out
  of equal quantities of methylated spirits and
  water. Or a camel's-hair brush may be used
  instead of the sponge. Dry with a chamois
  leather.
  
  A little onion water applied with a spongo
  
  
  72
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  sometimes helps to restore the colour of the
  gilding, and also keeps off flies.
  
  Prepare it thus : - Remove the skin from two
  or three onions and boil them in two breakfast-
  cupfuls of water until all the goodness is ex-
  tracted. Strain through a very fine strainer or
  piece of muslin and use warm.
  
  JAPANESE JRAYS OR PAPIER-
  MACHE ARTICLES
  
  •Clean these by washing them gently with a
  sponge wrung out of tepid water. Tlien dry
  with a cloth and poUsh with a little dry flour
  rubbed on with a soft dtister or chamois leather.
  
  TO CLEAN MIRRORS
  
  First remove all dust. Then take a basin of
  tepid water and add enough ammonia to make
  it smell slightly. Wring a sponge or chamois
  leather out of this, and wash the glass all over,
  going carefully round the edges and into the
  corners to avoid wetting the frame, and especially
  if it is a gilded one.
  
  Dry with a soft towel, and polish with a
  chamois leather or old sUk handkerchief.
  
  If the mirror has not been cleaned for some
  time, and is smeared and stained, instead of
  washing it, make a paste with fine whitening and
  methylated spirits, and rub this well over the
  glass with a piece of flannel. When dry, rub
  oS with a duster and polish as before.
  
  For gilt frames see p. 71.
  
  TO CLEAN STEEL
  
  If steel is rubbed daily with a dry duster or
  leather, and so kept free from dust and moisture,
  it ought tў retain its brightness for a considerable
  time. When it requires extra cleaning, use very
  fine emery paper ; No. 0 is best. Rub the steel
  backwards and forwards with this, and always
  in the one direction. Cross-rubbing will not
  polish properly. Emery powder, fine bath-
  brick dust or crocus powder made into a paste
  with paraffin or methylated spirits are all good
  things for the cleaning of steel. These should be
  applied with a piece of flannel and well rubbed on
  to the metal. Then a little of the dry powder
  used for polishing and the chamois leather for
  the final rub up.
  
  The emery paper is, however, cleaner and
  simpler to use, and unless the steel is allowed to
  get into bad condition, it ought to be sufficient
  to keep it in excellent order.
  
  TO CLEAN BRASS
  
  There are many different materials used for
  the cleaning of brass, but perhaps nothing is
  better than fine bath-brick dust or powdered
  
  
  rotten-stone made into a paste with a littlo
  paraffin or oil of turpentine. Apply tliis with
  a flannel, rubbing the brass well ; then rub off
  with a second flannel, using a little dry powder,
  and polish with a duster or chamois leather.
  There are also many modern polishes that can
  be used, but with some of them the result,
  although good to begin with, is not lasting ;
  the brass tarnishes and becomes dim very
  rapidly.
  
  Tlie " Blue-bell " polish is one to be recom-
  mended, and it has the advantage of being very
  clean to use. Directions for its use are given
  with each tin. If a paste of any kind is used,
  care must be taken that none of it is left sticking
  to the brass.
  
  Outside brasses may be kept from tarnishing
  by rubbing them over with a Uttle vaseline after
  cleaning.
  
  Benares Brass should be washed in very hot
  soapy water, and well rubbed with a flannel or
  soft brush. If the brass is greasy, add a little
  borax to the water, then rinse in hot water and
  dry with a towel. If the brass still remains
  stained or discoloured, rub it over with the
  squeezed half of a lemon and wash again.
  Finally polish with a chamois leather. It is
  better not to use any polishing paste for chased
  work, as it is almost impossible to remove it
  entirely ; but a Uttle dry whitening may be
  used to poUsh with, if it is very carefully
  brushed off.
  
  Lacquered Brass requires very careful treat-
  ment, and especially so if it is not of a very good
  quality, as the appUcation of paste and a great
  deal of rubbing would then be liable to remove
  the lacquer, wliich is only a sort of varnish which
  can quickly be worn off.
  
  Lacquered articles should be rubbed up fre-
  quently with a leather, and if this is not sufficient
  to keep them in order, wash them in warm
  water with soap and a flannel. Then dry and
  polish. Soda must never be used when washing
  lacquered goods, but a little borax may be added
  if the water is hard.
  
  THE CLEANING OF BOOKS
  
  Books should be kept as free from dust as
  possible. If the book-case is covered with glass
  this is comparatively easy, but when the books
  are placed on open shelves they will require
  more attention. Care should be taken to
  always cover them with a dust-sheet before any
  sweeping is done in the room. Then from time
  to time, or as often as necessary, the books should
  bo removed from the shelves and thoroughly
  dusted. Take them two at a time, and clap
  them together to disperse the dust, then dtist
  them gently with a very light duster or soft
  clothes' -brush. The dust must not be rubbed
  into the leaves. The shelves, too, should be
  dusted before the books are returned to them.
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  73
  
  
  THE CABE OF A PIANO
  
  The most important point is to protect it
  from all damp. It should never be in a tempera-
  ture under 60 dogs. Falirenheit, therefore it Ls
  unwise to have it standing in a room where there
  is no fire in winter. Great heat is also injiu-ious.
  
  A piano should never be placed against an
  outside wall, unless it can be protected in some
  way, neither should it stand in a direct draught.
  
  A strip of felt or a pad of silk is sometimes
  placed over the keyboard to protect it from
  damp and dust.
  
  It is a bad plan to pile books and ornaments
  on the top of a piano, as any weight is apt to
  spoil the tone of the instrument. A flower vase
  with water should be especially avoided, as
  there is always the danger of the water being
  spilt and soaking between the keys.
  
  Pianos should be carefully dusted with a soft
  cloth or silk duster, and polished when neces-
  sary with a chamois leather. Any marks on
  the keyboard may be removed with a damp
  chamois leather, but soap and water should
  never be iised.
  
  A piano, whether it is in use or not, should be
  tuned regularly by a competent tuner. An
  arrangement can be made for this to be done
  periodically, generally four times a year, for a
  very moderate charge. This will preserve the
  instrument and keep it at the necessary pitch.
  
  BRASS CHANDELIERS OR GAS BRACKETS
  
  Keep these free from dust with a soft brush or
  duster. When they become soiled, wash with a
  sponge wrung out of vinegar and water. Dry
  with a soft cloth, and polish with a chamois
  leather.
  
  TO CLEAN BRONZE ORNAMENTS
  
  These must never be washed. Dust with a
  muslin or silk duster, and use a soft brush for any
  ornamental part. If this is not sufficient to
  make them clean, sponge the ornaments with
  stale beer, using a small sponge, and when dry,
  polish with a chamois leather.
  
  TO CLEAN IVORY
  
  Wash in lukewarm water with plain yellow
  soap, using a soft brush if necessary to remove
  dirt from any carved parts. Rinse and dry.
  Then polish with a chamois leather. If the
  ivory is stained, rub with a Uttle salt and vinegar,
  or salt and lemon juice, after wasliing ; rinse and
  dry as before.
  
  Or, if the ivory is discoloured, lift it out of the
  soapy water and stand it in the sun. Before it
  becomes dry, repeat the process if necessary. It
  must not be allowed to remain dry in a hot sun,
  or it will warp. Rinse and dry as before.
  
  
  Kneeling- Mat.
  
  
  TO CLEAN DOOR-STEPS
  
  First sweep away all the dust with an old
  broom kept for the purpose. Then take a pail
  of cold or tepid water, a piece of strong floor-cloth
  or swab, and some rough hearth-stone, which can
  be bought at the rate of two or three pieces for
  a penny. A kneeling- mat must always be used.
  Wring the cloth out of
  the water, and wet over
  as much as is con-
  venient of the steps at
  one time. Then rub
  over with the stone
  evenly backwards and
  forwards, and not in
  curves.
  
  Next wring the cloth again out of the water,
  and wipe the stone again to prevent it having a
  patchy appearance when dry. Then go on to
  the next piece of step and do it in the same way,
  and so on until all is finished. The sides and
  front of the steps must also have attention.
  
  In frosty weather a handful of salt should be
  put in the water, and this wiU prevent its
  freezing.
  
  GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR
  " WASHING UP "
  
  Before commencing the actual washing of
  dishes, &c., a certain amount of preliminary
  arrangement is necessary. First of all, one
  must see that a plentiful supply of hot water is
  available. If there is a hot- water supply in the
  house, this is a simple matter if the fire is first
  attended to, but if only a side boiler or kettles
  are to be relied on, some looking ahead will be
  necessary to see that these are filled in time,
  and then refilled, when once they have been
  emptied, in order to cause no delay in having
  to wait for the water to boil.
  
  Then everything that requires washing must
  be collected together and put within easy reach.
  The contents of dishes on which food has been
  served must be put away on clean plates or basins.
  All scraps of food, crumbs, remains of mustard
  or jam, &c., must be removed from plates ;
  slops must be poured out of teacups or coffee-
  cups ; remains of tea and tea leaves from the
  teapot, and so on.
  
  If this were not done before starting the
  washing, the water would not only become un-
  necessarily dirty and require more frequent
  changing, but the work itself would be dis-
  agreeable.
  
  Arrange all articles of one kind together,
  plates of different sizes in neat piles, saucers by
  themselves in another pile, cups by themselves,
  and so on.
  
  Silver and glass ought to be kept apart on a
  tray, or in the case of the former in a plate-
  basket, until they can be washed. They must
  not be mixed up with other dishes.
  
  
  74
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Knives should be placed blades downwards
  in a washer or jug of hot water. (See p. 76.)
  
  If attention is paid to these small points,
  *' wasliing up " will be a much simpler affair
  than if it were just started in a muddle. Much
  time too will be saved, as all unnecessary turning
  round and walking about with wet and soapy
  hands ^^•ill be avoided.
  
  Two basins or small tubs will be necessary for
  the wasliing, one for hot water and the second for
  a cold or tepid rinsing water. For silver, glass
  and fine china, a small wooden or pulp-ware tub
  is best, as this is less liable to scratch or break
  fine articles ; but for ordinary dishes, and
  especially greeisy dishes, zinc or tin is preferable,
  Eis it can bo kept clean more easily.
  
  If the water is hard, it must be softened with
  a little soda or borax, and a little soap or soap-
  powder must be used if required. Care must,
  however, be taken to avoid unnecessary extrava-
  gance in the employment of these materials; there
  is frequently considerable w£iste caused by their
  needless use, and this must be guarded against.
  
  With regard to dish-cloths, these are best
  made of some open material which will not re-
  tain the grease, such as thin old towelUng, or a
  cheap canvas-like material sold for the piirpose.
  
  Some people prefer a mop or dish-,brush
  instead of the dish-cloth, and both are useful.
  
  When all is arranged, commence with the
  glass and silver, and when these are out of the
  way start on the cleanest and least greasy of
  the dishes. If there are two people to do the
  work, then one can wash while the other does
  the drying.
  
  The water must be changed whenever it
  becomes dirty ; continuing to wash in the dirty
  water would only result in smeary dishes, with
  probably an unpleasant smell. This is one of
  the most important points to pay attention to.
  
  Another very important point is the use of dry
  and clean towels. The thickness of the towel
  must be regulated according to the kind of
  article being dried. Glass, silver, and china will
  require fine smooth towels without a fluffy
  surface, while coarser dishes will require a
  coarse and stronger material. In all cases
  the towels must be clean and free from grease,
  and as they become wet should be hung near the
  fire to dry.
  
  Finally, when the " washing up " is finished
  and everything put away in its place, the dish-
  cloths or flannels that have been used must be
  washed out and hung up to dry, and also any
  towels that require it. The tub or basin must
  be well washed and rinsed and set on end to air.
  All then will bo clean and ready when wanted
  again, and a pood worker is recognised by
  attention to these small details.
  
  3ee also detailed directions under special
  articles.
  
  For the washing of kitchen utensils, see pp.
  92-94.
  
  
  CARE OF SILVER
  
  The daily care of silver is much more import-
  ant than the thorough cleaning which is given to
  it at stated intervals. In fact, if a Uttle extra
  time were spent over the regular washing and
  drj-ing, the " thorough cleaning," as it is called,
  need not be oftener than once in tliree weeks or
  a month.
  
  The keeping of silver requires a good deal of
  care, but it is not difficult if the work is done
  with method, and attention paid to a few special
  points.
  
  Table silver should be washed as soon as
  possible after it has been used. A papier
  mache or wooden tub is the best for the purpose,
  as then there will be Uttle danger of it scratching
  the silver. Take water as hot as the liand can
  bear, add a few drops of ammonia and enough
  melted soap, " lux " or soap-powder to make a
  nice lather. Wash the silver in this, using a
  piece of flannel or soft towelling to rub it with.
  Rinse in clean hot water, and dry with a finљ
  towel whUe the silver is still warm. If allowed
  to he wet, it will be difficult to remove the water-
  marks. For this reason, if a large quantity of
  silver is being done, it is better not to start it all
  at one time, but one lot can be finished as far as
  the rinsing, and the second lot put to soak in
  the soapy water while the first lot is being dried.
  When dry give each article a good rub up with
  a chamois leather, and then arrange the silver
  neatly and in order in the plate-basket, or on a
  tray ready to put away.
  
  Throughout the process the greatest care
  must be taken not to scratch the silver, and
  with this in view it is really better if forks can be
  kept by themselves. In the case of real silver,
  a careful worker will first lay a towel or piece of
  flannel on the tray on wliich the silver is drained,
  and, in fact, never allow it to touch a hard surface,
  which might be liable to injure it.
  
  Another important point to remember is, that
  both towel and lather must be perfectly clean
  and free from grease, and in the case of the
  former it must be changed when it becomes too
  damp. A wot towel is practically useless.
  
  From time to time the silver will bo improved
  by having a more special cleaning. One of the
  best things to use for this is fine Spanish whiten-
  ing or some good plate powder and liquid
  ammonia.^ Put a little whitening (not more than
  one dessert-spoonful at a time) into a saucer
  and mix into a perfectly smooth paste with the
  ammonia. It should be of the consistency of thin
  cream. Apply tliis to the silver with a piece of
  soft flannel, rubbing each article well, and
  especially the parts which are most likely to be
  
  1 Elkington & Co. Ltd., Birmingham, sell a plate powder
  which ia thoroughly to be recommended. It is free from
  mercury, and does not contain chalk in any form. Chalk is
  very injurious to silver and electro-plated articles from its
  cutting nature, and unfortunately forma the basis of many
  of the plate powders in existence.
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  75
  
  
  stained. Allow this to dry on the silver, then
  rub ofE with a second piece of flannel, using a soft
  silver brush whereVer necessary to remove the
  whitening. Forks require special attention, as
  the powder is apt to lodge between the prongs.
  The " Selvyt " fork polisher is useful for this
  purpose. Tlien polish well with the
  chamois leather. When finished, it
  must not be handled more than
  necessary.
  
  There are many other plate
  powders which can be used in place
  of the whitening, but care must be
  taken to use one that is thoroughly
  reliable, as so many of them are
  mixed with mercixry, which is in-
  jiirious to the plate. Rouge and
  hartshorn powder are both very
  good, but unless the former is care-
  fully removed it looks bad. Methy-
  lated spirits may be used instead
  of ammonia, and will be found very
  satisfactory, but when once a good
  method is adopted it should be
  Silver Brush adhered to, as it is easier for the
  worker and better for the silver.
  Silver forks and knives with ivory handles
  should not be allowed to soak in water,
  or at least the handles must be kept out of
  the water, or the heat will melt the cement
  which fixes them together. The best plan
  is to hold them in the hand while washing
  and to place them in a jug for rinsing with
  enough boiling water to reach just up to the
  handles.
  
  Egg spoons that have become very much
  stained with the suJphur from the egg should be
  rubbed with a little fine dry salt and then
  washed.
  
  A silver teapot may be washed in the same
  way, only if it has a wooden handle or
  wooden or ivory rings on the handle, it must
  not be allowed to soak in hot water. A teapot
  must on no account be left standing with the
  remains of tea and tea-leaves in it, but should
  be emptied and rinsed out with boihng water as
  soon as possible after use. When it begins to
  have a discoloured appearance inside or to
  smell musty, fill it to the brim with boiling
  water, and add a piece of washing-soda. Qose
  down the lid and let it remain thxis all night.
  Next day pour out the soda-water, wash with
  soap and water, using a small brush, and rinse
  thoroughly. A teapot must be dried inside
  as well as outside, and left with the hd open
  until quite free from moisture.
  
  Silver should be exposed as Uttle as possible
  to the action of the atmosphere, more especially
  in damp foggy weather, when it will very readily
  tarnish. That which is in daily use should
  be kept either in a baize-hned plate-basket and
  covered with a piece of felt or flannel, or in a
  baize-lined drawer covered in a similar way.
  
  
  Articles that are not in constant Tzse shotild
  be kept in the lined C£ises, or in bags made of
  flannel or chamois leather.
  
  A lump of camphor stored with silver will
  help to preserve its brilliancy.
  
  Britannia Metal Goods. - Messrs. Dixon and
  Sons, manufacturers, Sheffield, have kindlj-
  suppHed the following directions for cleaning : -
  Rub the article all over with a piece of woollen
  cloth, moistened with sweet oil, and then apply
  a Httle pounded rotten-stone, or polishing paste,
  with the finger till the polish is produced ; after
  which, wash it well with soap and hot water, and
  when dry wipe off smartly with soft wash-leather
  and a httle fine whiting. This simple method
  will effectually preserve the colour.
  
  By attending to the above, Britannia metal
  goods are warranted to stand their colour any
  duration of time.
  
  THE WASHING OF GLASS, WATER-
  BOTTLES, DECANTERS, &c.
  
  Glass requires very special care if we want it
  to look nice. Tumblers should be washed first
  in warm water, with a very Uttle soap or a few
  drops of ammonia, using the fingers or a fine
  cloth to rub them with. Then rinse them in
  clear cold water and place them upside down on
  a tray to drain. Use a very fine towel for drying,
  as one tli^t is fluffy would leave small particles
  on the glass. Care must be taken, too, that the
  towel is dry and free from grease, or it would give
  the glass a smeared appearance. A final polish
  with a chamois leather is sometimes given ; but
  this is objected to by some people, because they
  think it gives the glass a taste. Wlien a tumbler
  has been used for milk or any other Hquid of
  a greasy nature, it should be filled with cold
  water as soon as possible to prevent the grease
  sinking into the glass and making it troublesome
  to wash.
  
  Wine-glasses should be treated in the same
  way as tumblers, only the greatest care must bo
  taken in the drying, because of the slender stems.
  
  If a Httle vinegar is added occasionally to the
  water in which table glass is rinsed, it will give it
  an extra brightness.
  
  Moulded or Cut-glass Dishes. - When washing
  these use a hght lather of soap and warm water,
  and a few drops of ammonia as weU, if the articles
  are very dirty. A soft brush, too, will be found
  useful for removing any dust or dirt from the
  crevices. Always rinse well in clear cold water
  to remove all trace of soap, and dry and polish
  as before.
  
  Water-bottles and Decanters. - WTien these
  become stained or discoloured, they may be
  treated in one of the following ways : - Fill the
  bottle half -full of warm soapy water, and put in
  some pieces of brown paper, some tea-leaves or
  small pieces of raw potato ; let it soak for some
  time, shaking it occasionally, then pour out.
  
  
  76
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  rinse and drain. Crushed egg-shells or fine sishes
  used along with a little soap are also very good.
  If none of these are enough to remove the
  discoloration, try vinegar and coarse salt -
  one part salt to two parts vinegar, undiluted
  with water (this can be used more than once) ;
  allow them to remain
  some hours in the bottle,
  then pour out and rinse
  and dry as before. Some-
  times a brush is an assis-
  tance in the washing of
  decanters.
  
  If tlio stoppers become
  
  fixed in wine decanters,
  
  it is a good plan to poiur
  
  a few drops of oil round
  
  the neck and place the
  
  ^k/g^ \\\ decanter near the fire, and
  
  ■^^B .^-^ ^" ^ short time try to
  
  ^^Es ^^Su loosen it gently ; if it
  
  ^^^B ^^^tI ^^^^^ sticks, wash it in
  
  ^^^^B ^^^^ warm water and repeat
  
  ^H^B ^^^^ ^^^ process.
  
  ^T^^ ^ Sometimes a few gentle
  
  ^ taps ■with another stopper
  
  Bottle-Brushes. "^l^ ^^Ip to loosen the
  
  fixed one. Glycerine,
  
  too, is a good thing to use instead of oil.
  
  Flower Vases should be washed inside with a
  small brush, and if stained, treated in the same
  way as decanters.
  
  TO WASH CHINA AND OTHER DISHES
  
  Tea Dishes. - If these are in daily use, it wiU
  be sufficient to wash them in hot water with a
  soft dish-cloth ; rinse in cold or tepid water and
  dry with a fine towel. If the water is very hard,
  a little borax or soap-powder may be added to it,
  but soda must never be used for fine -coloured
  china, and especially if there is any gilt on it.
  Excessive rubbing, too, must be avoided when
  finely painted china is under treatment. The
  water must not be used too hot, and the china
  should not be put in until the heat has been
  tested with the hand. If the water is too hot for
  the hand to rest in, it is too hot for the china.
  Commence with the cups, then the saucers, and
  lastly the plates and any jugs or basins. Par-
  ticular attention must bo given to the handles of
  cups and jugs to see that thoy are clean.
  
  Care, too, must be taken in the drying of fine
  china ; it will require very gentle handling.
  
  Tea stains may be removed from cups and
  teapots by rubbing them with a little common
  salt, or by rubbing a little Brook's soap on a
  flannel, and then applying it to the mark. This
  will also remove burnt stains from meat-dishes
  or pie-dishes.
  
  China Ornaments which are washed only
  occasionally will require a little more rubbing,
  and the addition of soap to tho water will be
  
  
  a necessity. A soft brush will also be found
  useful when washing any intricate parts. After
  wtishing, rinse well ; drain, dry, and polish with
  a channiois leather.
  
  Dinner Dishes. - As these are stronger and
  generally more greasy than other cliina, the
  addition of a little soda to the
  water in which they are washed
  will bo advisable, except in tho
  case of gilded ware, when borax
  or soap-powder must be used
  instead.
  
  When using soda in the water,
  it is a good plan to use a small
  mop instead of a cloth to wash
  with ; the hands will not then
  require to come into such direct
  contact with the water. Plates
  and other dishes must always
  be washed on both sides, and
  must always be rinsed in clean
  cold or tepid water before being
  put aside to drain. If there is
  a rack, the plates may be put
  straight out of the rinsing water
  into that, and a certain amount
  of drying will thus be saved.
  They should be taken down
  when dry, and rubbed over lightly with a
  clean dry cloth to give them a polish.
  
  
  Dish-Mop.
  
  
  THE CARE OF KNIVES AND STEEL
  FORKS
  
  Soiled knives must never be put into a basin
  or tub of hot water and allowed to soak, as this
  would melt the cement or glue in the handles,
  and cause the blades to come apart.
  
  Stand them blade downwards in a knife-
  washer or jug with sufficient hot water to reach
  just up to the handles, and add a small piece of
  soda. Allow them to soak for some Uttlo time,
  then wipe them well, handle and blade, with
  a dish-cloth, and dry them carefully with a
  towel or coarse cloth kept for the purp<^se. If
  an ordinary towel is used, the greatest care
  must be taken that the knives do not cut it, as
  this accounts for many holes whicli appear far
  too soon in kitchen and pantry towels.
  
  With regard to polishing the knives, tliis can be
  done either on a board or in a knife -cleaning
  machine. These latter can now be bought for
  a few shillings, and they aro certainly a great
  saving of labour, but care must be taken in
  their use. Tho knives must in all cases be put
  in clean and free from grease, and tho machine
  must be turned gently and not more than is
  necessary. If the knife-board is used it is a
  good plan to remove the worst stains from the
  knives, and especially from the points, before
  beginning to rub them on the board. This may
  be done either with a piece of raw potato dipped
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  77
  
  
  in bath-brick dust or knife-powder and rubbed
  on the knife, or with a piece of cork used in the
  same way. This will lessen the rubbing con-
  siderably and lessen the wear and tear of the
  knife. Then sprinkle the knife-board with a
  little of the powder, and rub the knife quickly
  and lightly backwards and forwards on this.
  Any pressure must be brought to bear on the
  back of the knife rather than on the sharp edge,
  and the point must never be rubbed down. The
  knives must finally be weU dusted to free them
  from all powder, and must be kept in a dry
  place.
  
  Should the ivory or bone handles of Icnives
  become stained or discoloured, they may be
  improved by rubbing them with a cut lemon and
  a little dry salt, or vinegar and salt, then wipe
  off with a damp flannel and dry. Fine emery
  powder moistened with a Httle water and applied
  with a flannel is also a good thing to use for
  stains.
  
  When knives are not to be used for some
  time, it is a good plan to rub the blades with
  sweet oil and then to roll them, one by one, in a
  piece of flannel or felt, and in such a way that
  they do not touch each other. This is especially
  necessary in damp districts, because if once rust
  is allowed to attack the steel the appearance of
  the knife is spoilt.
  
  Steel Forks must be treated in the same way
  as knives, only instead of rubbing them on the
  board apply the knife -powder or bath-brick
  with a piece of flannel. Particular care must be
  taken to dust well between the prongs.
  
  THE CARE OF LAMPS AND OIL-HEATING
  STOVES
  
  If lamps are used in a household, the care of
  them should be in the hands of one person, and
  unless there is a capable maid who has time to
  devote herself to the work, it is really better for
  the mistress to undertake this duty herself. The
  Value of a lamp depends upon its being properly
  attended to, and if it is allowed to smoke and
  smell, it is not only worse than useless, as far as
  light is concerned, but there is nothing more
  disagreeable.
  
  To begin with, lamps must be cleaned and
  filled by daylight, as there is always a certain
  amount of danger in working with oil by artificial
  light. Needless to say, this must not be done on
  the kitchen table, nor where any fine work is in
  progress, as lamp-oil stains are very difficult to
  eradicate. If a small table cannot be reserved
  for ihe purpose, then the best plan is to use an
  old tray or a piece of thick mill-board.
  
  A lamp in daily use should be filled tliree
  parts full every morning, as it is dangerous to
  use when the oil is very low in the reservoir or
  container. The oil should be poured in by
  means of a feeder, and not from the can itself,
  for in the latter case it would be apt to come
  
  
  out by jerks and be spilt over, or the lamp would
  be made too full. It is very important also to
  use oil of a good quality. In fact, it is no
  economy to buy cheap oil, as it not only gives
  an inferior Ught and burns more quickly, but it
  is also more dangerous to use. Good oil should
  give a white light, have no smell, and be as clear
  as water.
  
  Then with regard to the wick ; it is of the
  utmost importance that this fits the biirner
  well, and it should be just long enough to reach
  the bottom of the reservoir. A wick should
  last for three months, after that time it is best
  to renew it, when the end to be lighted should be
  dipped in the oil first. As a rule the wick should
  not require cutting, but should be turned low
  and the uneven charred part gently rubbed off
  with a piece of card-board and the surface made
  smooth with the top of the tubes. If it stiU re-
  mains uneven, it may then be trimmed carefully
  with a pair of lamp scissors. After this any
  bla<3k pieces of wick must be removed from the
  burner, and the outside of the lamp rubbed first
  with a piece of newspaper and then a soft rag,
  until free from oil.
  
  From time to time, both the reservoir and the
  burner will require to be thoroughly cleaned.
  The reservoir should be emptied of all oil and
  washed out with warm suds to which a few drops
  of ammonia have been added. Rinse thor-
  oughly, and then turn upside down in a warm
  place to dry. When the burner becomes
  clogged and dirty, it should be taken to pieces
  (care being taken to notice how it is fixed
  together), and put into an old saucepan with
  a lump of soda and enough cold water to cover
  it. Bring to the boil, and boil for half-an-hour.
  Then rinse in warm water, and use a brush if
  necessary to remove any charred wick. When
  quite clean place in a warm place, or a cool oven
  to dry. The lamp must not be refilled until
  both reservoir and burner are quite dry, or the
  oil will splutter.
  
  Pains must be taken to keep both the chimney
  glass and the globe very clean and bright. The
  chimney should never be washed, but may be
  cleaned with lamp -brushes, or a pad of chamois
  leather or felt fastened to a stick. The Selvyt
  lamp -cleaner is a most useful article for tliis
  purpose. If the glass becomes marked or very
  much soiled, a Httle methylated spirits may be
  used to remove the stains. The outer globe
  should be dusted every day and occasionally
  washed in warm water with a little soap, then
  rinsed and dried with a glass-cloth.
  
  If a lamp biu-ns badly or smells, it is generally
  due to one of the following causes : -
  
  (1) It has been filled too full, and the oil when
  heated expands and runs over the sides.
  
  (2) The receiver and burner have not been
  wiped after filling.
  
  (3) The wick does not fit properly, or it has
  been badly trimmed.
  
  
  78
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  (4) Inferior oil has been used.
  
  (5) The lamp -glasses are not clean.
  
  When hghting the lamp, turn up the wick only
  slightly and keep it burning low until the
  chimney is thorouglily heated ; then turn it up
  as far as it N%-ill go without smoking.
  
  When not in use the wick must be kept low,
  otherwise the oil oozes up tlu-ough it and over
  the sides.
  
  To extinguish a lamp (if there in no patent
  extinguisher attached), turn down the wick
  until it is level with the tube, and blow quickly
  across the top of the cliimney.
  
  The best lamps are fitted with a patent burner
  which permits of the lamp being blown out with
  safetj% or, if overturned, will extinguish itself
  at once. Should an accident, however, happen
  and the oil be spilt and catch fire, it must be
  remembered that water poured over it would only
  spread the flame. The best thing to do is to
  throw sand or earth on the burning oil, or to
  smother the flame with a thick rug. Door and
  window should immediately be shut.
  
  The same remarks apply to the keeping of oil-
  stoves. It is almost impossible to prevent their
  smelling a little, but with proper care this smell
  should be so reduced £is to be almost imper-
  ceptible.
  
  TO CLEAN BOOTS
  
  Boots should never be cleaned when damp.
  If they have been brought in very muddy, they
  should be wiped with a damp flannel or a small
  wet brush. Then put on to boot-trees, or if
  these are not available, stuff the inside with
  some crumpled newspaper, and this will help
  to keep the boots in good shape. Never put
  boots close to the fire to dry, as too rapid drying
  will harden, and perhaps crack the leather. It
  is much better if they can be allowed to dry
  slowly in a warm atmosphere. If the leather
  should become hard, a little vaseline or sweet oil
  may be applied. This should be rubbed well in
  and then off again with a piece of flannel.
  
  It is very important that the inside of boots
  should be kept clean during the process of
  cleaning. For this reason it is a good plan to
  cover the hand that is placed inside the boot
  with a clean duster. Gloves, too, should be
  worn to protect the hands. Thanks to the
  many good boot polishes which can now be
  obtained, the old-fashioned liquid blacking,
  which was liable to be spleished or spilt where it
  was not wanted, is now a thing of the past, and
  boot-cleaning may be quite a clean and tid3'
  occupation. So much so that many ladies
  who do not keep a lady's-maid prefer to
  clean their own shoes, and especially those of a
  fine quality. In fact all the necessary requisites
  can be kept in a very small tin box, and cause no
  inconvenience anywhere.
  
  First remove all dust or mud with a brush -
  then with a piece of flannel or an old stocking-
  
  
  leg, apply a little boot-polish, rubbing it well in
  and all over the boot, not forgetting the heels and
  the back part. Then polish with a polishing-pad ;
  one covered with velvet or selvyt cloth is best.
  
  When boots are new and they are found
  difficult to polish, a few drops of paraffin added
  to the paste will bo found a help.
  
  Brown Boots should be cleaned in the same
  way, using brown boot-polish instead of black, or
  the ordinary bees' -wax and turpentine (see p. 66)
  does very well. Stains may be removed with
  lemon-juice or methylated spirits, or with the
  inside of a banana skin.
  
  Patent Leather Boots require rather different
  treatment. Wipe them first with a damp sponge
  and dry them. Then rub over with a flannel
  dipped in a little milk. When the leather
  becomes shabby it is better to use one of the
  special polishes sold for the purpose at any
  bootmakers ; or a small quantity of vasehne
  well rubbed in will keep them soft and bright.
  The edges of the soles should be blackened.
  
  White Shoes. - Those made of canvas or drill
  should be cleaned with pipeclay or whitening
  mixed to a creamy consistency with cold water,
  then applied evenly with a sponge or piece of
  soft rag. Place the shoes in the sun to dry, and
  then hghtly brush off any superfluous powder.
  White kid shoes should be cleaned with a special
  dressing sold for the purpose.
  
  CARE OF BRUSHES
  
  House Brushes should all be soaked in cold
  water for some hours, and then well dried before
  they are used. This prevents the hairs or
  bristles from coming out, and increases the dura-
  bihty of the brush.
  
  When house-brooms and such-like become
  dirty, they should be washed. Put a little
  boiling water in a pail, and add a handful of soda
  to it. Then pour in cold or tepid water until the
  pail is three parts full. Take the brushes one at
  a time, carefully remove from them all fluff,
  thread ends, hairs, &c., and work them up and
  down in the soda-water. Rinse thoroughly in
  cold water and shake well to get rid of as much
  moisture as possible. Dry in the open air or
  hang up in a warm atmosphere.
  
  Brushes should never be left lying or standing
  on their bristles. Small brushes can be hung up,
  and the longer brooms should be kept in a rack.
  No pieces of wool nor fluffy matter should be left
  sticking to the bristles.
  
  It is also very important that brushes be kept
  for the special purpose for which they are in-
  tended, and not used for all and sundry purposes.
  
  EXTERMINATION OF PESTS
  
  Beetles. - These objectionable insects infest
  usually the ground floor and kitchen premises
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  79
  
  
  of houses. They disappear in the daytime and
  come out at night through the cracks in the
  flooring, and they multiply so rapidly that
  
  
  Brush-Hack.
  
  sometimes they can be counted by the thousand.
  They will attack food of all kinds, and the
  leather of boots and shoes ; in fact, everything
  that comes in their way.
  
  Many different kinds of traps have been in-
  vented, and they all serve their purpose for the
  time being, but one of the safest and surest
  methods of extermination is the use of " Blatol."
  Spread this paste upon pieces of thick paper
  about three or four inches square. Lay these
  at night in the places most frequented by the
  beetles. Remove the papers in the morning
  and burn them. Lay fresh papers with the paste
  every night for a week, or more, then every
  second or third night until all the beetles have
  disappeared. The " Blatol " so effectively de-
  stroys them, and at the same time so com-
  pletely dries them up, that their dead bodies do
  not emit the slightest smell.
  
  Fleas. - Strict cleanliness, good ventilation and
  plenty of light and sunshine are the greatest
  enemies of this kind of pest. Fleas flourish in
  warmth, dirt and darkness ; these are just the
  conditions which favour their development.
  
  If a bed becomes infested, the best thing is to
  have the mattress brought out into the sunshine
  and thoroughly brushed. The blankets, too,
  should have the same treatment. Then the bed-
  stead itself should be well washed with carbohc
  soap and water, and also the flooring under the
  
  
  bed. Tlirow the windows of the room well
  open and let it be thoroughly aired. Various
  powders are also used for the destruction of
  fleas, and most of these contain the plant sub-
  stance " PjTethrum," which has accordingly
  been popularly known as " Fleabane." This
  can be bought in powder form from any chemist,
  and other ready-made insect powders can also
  be obtained. Lumps of camphor laid between
  the bedclothes, or carried in a small muslin bag
  on the person, is also a preventive, but the chief
  destroyer of all is cleanliness.
  
  Moths. - It is very important that all moths on
  the wing should be destroyed as soon as they
  are seen. They lay their eggs in all kinds of
  woollen materials, carpets, blankets and bedding,
  upholstered fxirniture, &c.
  
  Any article that is hkely to be attacked should
  be brushed frequently, and special attention
  should be paid to them in the month of September,
  which is about the time when the eggs are laid,
  and then again in the month of March, when
  the insect is still in a dormant state.
  
  Care, too, must be taken of woollen things that
  are laid away for any length of time. They should
  be well brushed, and then folded up in a news-
  paper or sown into cotton with something
  aromatic, such as cloves, caraway seeds, camphor,
  naphtha balls, or sprigs of the common bog
  myrtle put between the folds of the material as
  preventive. The moths seem to disUke the
  printer's ink on the newspaper, and they won't
  eat through cotton. When a mattress or
  piece of upholstered furniture is once really
  attacked by moths it will require to be sent
  away to be professionally stoved and cleaned.
  
  Bugs. - These are rarely found in clean and
  weU-kept houses, although occasionally through
  accident they may be introduced. They must
  bo attacked at once, as they breed very rapidlj%
  Whenever their presence is noticed in a bed-
  room, the bedding must have the most careful
  attention. The mattress shovild be well brushed,
  and especially in the corners and crexices, where
  eggs may possibly be laid. Then the bedstead
  itself should be taken to pieces, thoroughly
  washed with hot water and carbolic or paraffin
  soap. Wlien dry, paint it over with turpentine
  and allow it to air. Any woodwork too that
  seems to be infested should be painted over
  with turpentine.
  
  A formaline lamp left burning in the room is
  very good for fumigating.
  
  Mice. - The best plan is to starve them out.
  All eatables should be enclosed, and nothing
  left uncovered that would supply them with food.
  A cat or small dog which is a good mouser are
  also preventives. A trap, too, is often very
  effectual in catching a stray mouse here and
  there, and in frightening away others. There
  are many different kinds, but perhaps the old-
  fashioned make, which catches the animal alive,
  are the most humane ; others, which are supposed
  
  
  80
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  to kill instantaneously, often succeed in only
  half doing it, and so caxising unnecessary
  Buffering.
  
  There are different poisons too which can be
  bought for the destruction of mice, of wliich
  phosphorus paste is perhaps the best ; but care
  must be taken in using them, and especially if
  there are domestic animals in the house.
  
  Rats. - WTien rats enter a house, it is often
  a sign of insanitary drainage, and if that is the
  case the wrong must be seen to at once, and
  the necessary repairs carried out. Or it may be
  that the house is in the close proximity to a
  stable, and the rats have made their way into
  the house through some holes. A trap is some-
  times of good service for catching the rats, and
  directions for baiting them are usually given
  with each special kind. Poisoning is another
  method ; but this must be done with caution, and
  especially if there are any domestic animals in
  the house. Another danger of poisoning is
  that the dead bodies of the rats sometimes
  decompose under the flooring, and cause a very
  bad smell. A small dog, a terrier, sometimes
  keeps them away most effectively.
  
  If the rats become numerous, a rat-catcher
  should be employed, who will hunt the rats out
  with trained ferrets. When once the vermin
  have been got rid of, all holes by which they
  have entered should be carefully filled up with
  cement or plaster.
  
  Flies. - When flies are numerous, it is a good
  plan to wash the windows and window ledges
  with a strong solution of carbolic, or if the smell
  is an objection, sprinkle with Persian powder at
  night, and then sweep up in the morning. Fly -
  papers will also catch a number, but they are
  rather disgusting things to use. They should if
  possible be put in out-of-the-way places, such as
  the tops of cupboards. A very simple fly-paper can
  be made by spreading treacle or honey on brown
  paper, and sprinkling it with Persian powder
  or other insect poison. Fly-papers prepared
  with some sticky substance to which the flies
  adhere and endure a slow torturing death should
  be avoided- Another good way of getting rid of
  flies when they become numerous is to disinfect
  the room \\-ith sulphur.
  
  The blow-fly, which is larger than the common
  house-fly, is the kind most to bo dreaded, as it
  is a great enemy in the larder. It frequently
  lays its larvae in meat, which causes it to de-
  compose very quickly. In hot weather all
  meat should be examined when it is received,
  and if anything is suspected, it should be care-
  fully washed \^-ith a solution of Condy's fluid and
  water. The proportions to use will be found
  printed on the bottle. The meat should then
  be well sprinkled with pepper or other spice,
  wliich will help to keep the flies away. It is a
  good plan to fasten a piece of muslin or fine
  gauze over the larder window to prevent the
  flies entering.
  
  
  Ants. - These are very troublesome creatures
  to get rid of when once they infest a house, and
  sometimes different remedies have to be tried
  before one succeeds. One of the best is to find
  the opening through which the ants come, drop
  in some quicklime, and wash it over with boiling
  water. A strong solution of carbolic acid or
  spirits of camphor might also be tried, as ants aro
  very averse to strong smells. Or, again, some
  petroleum or tobacco juice poured over their
  nests is sometimes effectual.
  
  SPRING CLEANING
  
  Every year, as soon as the cold days of winter
  are over, and the promise of fine weather bids
  fair to be reahsed, the thoughts of the busy
  housewife turn towards preparations for the
  inevitable " Spring Clean." There are still
  some people who look upon this yearly cleaning
  as a perfectly unnecessary fetish before which
  the housewife bows down in deference to a mere
  time-honoured tradition. This point of view
  is erroneous, and those who share it show but
  httle knowledge of the art of housewifery.
  However clean a house is kept, and however
  regularly the various rooms go through their
  daily and weekly cleaning, it is always necessary
  to have a special cleaning from cellar to garret
  once a year at least. This is not intended to
  take the place of the daily or weekly cleaning,
  but rather to supplement it, and to give an
  opportunity of attending to such matters as can
  most conveniently be seen to at this season,
  when all necessary renovation, papering and
  whitewashing can also be undertaken.
  
  This annual cleaning need not necessarily take
  place in the spring - the time may be arranged
  according to the convenience of the household ;
  but spring is the season which appeals to most
  people as being the most natural time for hav-ing
  a good " turn out." After a long winter, things
  have put on a dark and dingy appearance, and
  seem very much out of keeping with the fine
  weather and the bright sunsliine. There is a
  desire to get rid of all dark curtains and other
  hangings that have been in use all tlirougii the
  wintry months of the year, and to replace them
  with something Light and pretty, and to give
  things generally a fresher appearance.
  
  The best time for this cleaning is the beginning
  of May, when fires are reqmred less regularly, and
  the weather is likely to remain fine. If, however,
  the autumn or summer suits the arrangements
  of the household better, it is by no means
  necessary to adhere to any rigid rule.
  
  A spring cleaning may be hard work while it
  lasts - a few days of undesirable toil ; but there
  is another side to the picture. What a feeling of
  satisfaction and air of content there is when all
  is accomplished, and how fresh and bright the
  rooms look after they have had their yearly
  overhauling, and put on their spring dress.
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  81
  
  
  The spring is also the tirae to see to any repairs
  and renovations, as, for instance, the re-covering
  of any furniture which has grown shabby, the
  re-gilding of any picture-frames which require it,
  the mending of all locks and door-handles, and
  so on. Then a new shelf or cupboard might be
  put up here and there, and any Httle additions
  made which might add to the comfort of the
  home. Deficiencies in stock, too, should be
  replenished, broken and cracked dishes discarded
  or given away, and numbers and sets of things
  made up as completely as possible, so that the
  work of the house may start anew with a suffi-
  ciency of materials and implements.
  
  Importance of Method. - In former times
  the advent of the annual spring cleaning was
  looked upon with positive terror by the un-
  fortunate householder. To him it represented
  a period when he would return home from his
  hard daily work in the city to find a tired,
  untidy-looking, cross-tempered wife, furniture
  heaped pell-mell in all the passages, pails of
  water and scrubbing brushes at every turn, and
  curl-papers bristling in the hair, and a liberal
  display of smuts upon the face of " !Mary Jane."
  His evening meal, more often than not, would
  have to be taken haphazard in the kitchen,
  where pots and pans and other culinary para-
  phernalia in the various stages of the cleaning
  process would not add to the comfort of his
  surroundings. Small blame to the man who
  under these circumstances would seek refuge
  in the comfort and cheerful society to be found
  at his club !
  
  In these days of up-to-date cleaning con-
  trivances such a state of affairs should be inex-
  cusable, yet in many houses to-day the words
  " Spring Cleaning " and " Discomfort " are still
  synonymous. The extent to which cleaning
  becomes a nuisance depends very much upon
  the way in which the work is performed. Some
  system should be decided on beforehand, and a
  haphazard way of doing things must be avoided.
  By the exercise of a Uttle foresight much time
  and worry may be saved, and method, organi-
  sation and thoroughness will bring the work to
  a speedy conclusion. For instance, if painters,
  joiners, plumbers, or any other workmen are
  likely to be required, they ought to be engaged
  in good time ; the services of the sweep too
  must be retained, and if extra help is required,
  a charwoman must be engaged.
  
  Before the work is started in real earnest, the
  housewife should make sure that she has in
  stock a good supply of all the necessary cleaning
  materials, such as carbolic soap, soft soap, soda,
  soap-powder, borax, amimonia, methylated
  spirits, bees' -wax, &c., and also a sufficiency of
  towels, cloths, dusters and brushes to carry on the
  work. Of course the ideal way to do a spring
  cleaning is to have the house emptied of all its
  occupants, except only those who are taking
  part in the work. Then the correct order in
  
  
  which to do it would be to commence at the top
  of the house, and to work downwards, beginning
  with the lumber-room, if there is one, then the
  bedrooms, next the sitting-rooms, bath-room
  and lavatory, finishing with the kitchen, cellars,
  and any outhouses. In the case of a flat a
  different order may perhaps be taken. If this
  ideal plan cannot be followed, then it is best to
  do the cleaning by degrees, and not to plunge the
  whole house into discomfort by undertaking the
  whole performance at once. In fact, some
  mistresses find it more convenient to clean half
  the house in the spring and the other half in the
  autumn, or even to clean only a single room now
  and again. In this way it does not seem such
  a formidable undertaking for servants.
  
  Each day's work should be carefuUy planned.
  Too much must not be undertaken at a time, but
  only what can be done without undue effort.
  There is never anything to be gained by over-
  taxing one's strength. A point should be made
  of ha\'ing comfortable meals served all the time,
  as without this the end of each day would
  simply mean exhaustion.
  
  There will be a great saving of time when the
  actual cleaning begins if all cupboards and
  drawers can be turned out beforehand. When
  they have been emptied of their contents, the
  insides should be scrubbed out with carboHe
  soap and warm water, and then left some time to
  air. Meanwhile the contents should be looked
  over, and all rubbish disposed of. The remainder
  should then be dusted, brushed or washed,
  according to the nature of the various articles,
  and put in gc/od order. Then the shelves and
  drawers should be neatly lined with clean paper,
  and the contents put back in an orderly fashion.
  Any winter coats or dresses which are not likely
  to be required for some time should be well
  brushed, and if possible hung in the open air
  for some hoiirs ; then carefully stored with
  some preparation which will keep the moth
  away. (See p. 314.) Winter curtains should
  undergo the same treatment.
  
  Books, and book-cases too, and stands with
  music, should all be cleaned and sorted out
  beforehand, and any magazines or pamphlets
  that are of no further service destroyed, or sent
  to some hospital for the use of the patients.
  
  Spring Cleaning a Bedroom. - The first thing
  to do before ha\nng a room spring cleaned is to
  make it as empty as possible. If it is a bedroom,
  the bedding should first be seen to. All the
  coverings, including the covers of mattress and
  pillows, should be sent either to be cleaned or
  washed. Then if there is a garden to wliich
  things can be taken easily, everything which
  requires shaking and brushing should be taken
  outside, such as mattress, pillows, cushions,
  rugs, upholstered chairs (unless too hea^'y to be
  moved), &c.'; and after they have been cleaned
  either left in the open air or in an adjoining
  passage until the room is ready to receive them.
  
  P
  
  
  82
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  All pictures, ornaments, and small articles of
  furniture should be dusted before they are
  removed from the room, to avoid having dust
  carried to another part of the house ; and that
  wliich must bo left because of its size or weight
  must be dusted first, and then carefully covered.
  If there is a nailed-down carpet, this must be
  lifted, and folded up carefully to prevent the
  dust flying about, and then taken away to bo
  cleaned or beaten. The floor should then be
  sprinkled with a Uttle wet saw-dust or bran,
  swept with a soft brush, and the dust burnt at
  once.
  
  Should the cliimney require sweeping, this
  should now be done, the sweep having been
  engaged beforehand. It is well also to see that
  the work is properly carried out, and that the
  brushes have been carried up the whole length
  of tlie chimney.
  
  When this is finished, the room is now ready
  for any papering and painting that may be re-
  quired, and must perforce be left in the painters'
  hands until their work is completed. If nothing
  of this kind is necessary, the cleaning must be
  done in the following order : - First, get rid of all
  dust by dusting all walls, curtain poles, blinds,
  and woodwork ; secondly, black-lead and polish
  the grate ; and thirdly, do all the washing that is
  required, such as woodwork, marble, furniture,
  including windows, bedsteads, floors, &c. Then
  the room ought to be left to air and dry with
  door and window wide open.
  
  Meanwhile the articles of furniture, &c., out-
  side can have attention, and as far as possible
  everything should be cleaned before it is brought
  back into the room. When everything is dry,
  all necessary polishing should be done. Pictures
  can then be re-hung, and everything as far as
  possible returned to its proper place. The carpet
  should of course be re-laid as soon as it is ready ;
  only if tlois hsis been sent to the cleaners, it may
  be necessary to wait for two or three days.
  
  Fresh curtains should then be put up, clean
  chair-covers, and cushion-covers where they are
  needed, and dainty touches given to make every-
  thing look pretty.
  
  A Sitting-room. - The order in which a sitting-
  room is " spring cleaned " would be very much
  the same as that followed for a bedroom (with
  the exception of the bed), but there will probably
  bo more furniture and odds and ends to attend to.
  
  Hall, Staircase and Bath-room. - It is always
  well to leave the staircase and bath-room until
  all the other rooms are finished, as there will of
  necessity be more tramping up and down the
  former while the cleaning is going on, and the
  latter has frequently to bo used for the washing
  of ornaments, bedroom ware, &c. The walls
  of the bath-room should always be of a washable
  nature, and then the cleaning is a very easy
  matter, as it simply means that every part must
  be washedfrom the top downwards, finishing with
  thefloor. If the bath itself has become veryehabby
  
  
  it should bo re-enamelled. Tliis can be done at
  home, although as a rule home enamelling is
  not very satisfactory, and if the extra expense can
  be afforded, it is much bettor to have it done by a
  skilled workman. When the washing is finished,
  the door and window should be left open to dry
  and air tlie room, and then the polishingof brasses,
  woodwork and floor should be undertaken.
  
  The hall and staircase is a more difficult
  undertaking. The rugs and stair-carpets having
  been removed, and all pictures, &c., taken from
  the walls and moved out of the way, the first thing
  to see to will be the cleaning of the walls. If
  they are very high, it is scarcely work that can
  be undertaken by maid-servants, especially if
  tlie walls require wasliing ; if it is simply a matter
  of dusting them down with a long broom, it may
  be possible. The stairs, railings, and banisters
  must next be well brushed and washed, and also
  the floor of the hall and any passages. Wash
  also any pieces of furniture that require it, in-
  cluding gas globes, flower-pots and ornaments.
  Next polish all woodwork, stair-rods, brasses
  and furniture, and lay the ceu-pet and rugs last
  of all.
  
  The Housemaid's Pantry. - In a well-appointed
  house where there are several servants there is
  generally a small room set aside for the house-
  maid's requirements. It is usually upstairs in
  close proximity to the bedrooms. This little
  
  
  Housemaid's Box.
  
  room should contain all that the housemaid
  will require for cleaning purposes, (oeo list
  on page 83.)
  
  It should be fitted up with a sink and be
  supplied with hot and cold water. There should
  also be a shelf at a convenient height for holding
  hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, dust-sheets,
  &c., and, if room, a rack for hanging brushes and
  a small pulley or towel -rail for drying the various
  cloths. It will also be convenient to have a
  small cupboard in which cleaning materials
  could be kept in jars, also paper and sticks for
  lighting fires. A small solid table would also
  be most useful if space permits, as on this the
  housemaid could do any special cleaning of
  silver or brass required for the bedrooms and
  also the brushing of clothes that come under her
  care. A few hooks should be put up along the
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
  
  
  83
  
  
  edge of the shelf and at the sink, as they will be
  found handy for hanging up small articles, such
  as taper-holder, bottle brushes, sink brush,
  tin jug, &c.
  
  The following is a list of the articles wliich the
  housemaid's pantry might contain : -
  
  A housemaid's box, a slop-pail, a pail for
  housework, a pair of steps, a kneeling-mat, a
  dust-pan, hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, a
  large can for carrying water, a tin jug, a soap-
  dish.
  
  Brushes. - A carpet switch, a long broom, a
  small short-handled broom, a banister brush,
  a wall-broom, a carpet-sweeper, a fvuriiture
  brush, boot brushes, black-lead brushes, two
  scrubbing brushes, a bottle brush, hearth brush,
  clothes' brush.
  
  Cleaning Materials, &c. - Wasliing soda.
  Brook's soap or Sapolio, yellow soap, polisliing
  paste, furniture polish, boot polish, turpentine,
  ammonia, bees' -wax, coarse salt, emery paper,
  black-lead, paper and sticks, or fire-lighters,
  matches, taper in holder.
  
  Towels, &C. - Dusters, glass towels, slop-
  cloths, washing cloth, swabs, coarse towels for
  drying floors, &c., old soft towels for drying
  paint, two chamois leathers, pieces of flannel for
  cleaning purposes, dust sheets, hearth cloth,
  grate cloths, a pair of gloves.
  
  A REMOVAL
  
  Introductory. - Thanks to modern enterprise
  on the part of removal contractors, this does not
  require to be the dreaded affair it was in days
  gone by. Although a removal is undeniably
  somewhat of an undertaking, it can be robbed of
  many of its terrors if it 's put into the hands of a
  reliable firm, and the preliminaries are arranged
  with some thought and care.
  
  Of course, if money is no object, it is quite
  possible to step out of the old house in the
  morning and spend the day enjoyably in town,
  or with friends, and to walk into the new home in
  the evening to find there that one's belongings
  have been bodily transported and placed in
  position, leaving very little to bo done except
  the arrangement of personal belongings to one's
  own liking, and other small details.
  
  But this expeditioiis and easy way of manag-
  ing the business means money, and we are not
  all lavishly endowed with this world's riches.
  People of modest means must be prepared to
  buckle to when such an important affair as a
  removal is on hand, and undertake some of the
  work and arranging themselves.
  
  Thought, advice and experience can, however,
  do mu';!h io lessen discomfort, and prevent chaos,
  and the more carefully the order of the removal
  is planned the easier the change of house will be.
  
  Making the Contract. - The first point to
  decide is how the furniture has to be removed,
  and by whom. It is always best to choose ex-
  
  
  perienced removers, for although the initial ex-
  pense may appear more, the ultimate sa\'ing in the
  avoidance of breakages and kindred annoyances
  is unquestionable. It is better, if possible, to
  choose a firm near at hand, who will send a re-
  presentative to look at the things and furnish
  an estimate free of charge. He will also
  tell you what arrangements it is necessary to
  make, and what preliminaries must be attended
  to. Removals can now be conducted to all
  parts of the United Kingdom in vans of the
  most improved construction (pantechnicons),
  and all risks and responsibihties are undertaken.
  The charge will depend on the quantity and
  quahty of the furniture, and upon the distance it
  has to be moved.
  
  Preliminaries in the Old House. - Before the
  actual removal takes place there are certain
  preUminaries which must be attended to, both in
  the old house and in the new.
  
  One very important point to attend to before
  lea\'ing the old house is to turn out all the
  rubbish. Clothes that are of no further use,
  broken and hoarded crockery, damaged and
  soiled knick-knacks, old saucepans and kettles,
  empty bottles and jam-pots, all should be dis-
  posed of ; in fact everything should be done to
  avoid the carriage of dirt and worthless stuff.
  Old papers should, however, be kept, as these
  will be found useful when packing.
  
  Then all the furnitiu-e should be sorted oufc
  and considered with a view to its place in the
  new abode, and that which is unsuitable should
  be sold or otherwise disposed of. It sometimes
  happens that an incoming tenant will only be
  too pleased to buy odds and ends of furniture,
  and even a carpet or two.
  
  Furniture which requires repairing, cleaning
  or re-covering, and pictures requiring new frames
  or re-gilding, should be sent away to have the
  necessary attention, and not returned until the
  new house is ready to receive them. The decora-
  tion and colouring of the new house must of
  course be borne in mind when choosing any
  new upholstery, and shades must be chosen
  which will tone well with the new surroundings.
  
  All carpets should be hfted and sent awaj' to
  be beaten or cleaned, according to what is
  necessary. Ciu-tains, too, which require cleaning
  or dyeing, and any heavy extra washing, such as
  bed-covers, spare blankets, &c., should be sent
  from the old house, and returned to the new, as
  in this way some of the removal expenses will
  be saved.
  
  Of coiirse this means a certain amount of
  dismantling beforehand, but upon the whole
  it is better to have the discomfort before the
  removal rather than after it has taken place.
  Once in the new quarters one is naturally
  anxious to get settled as quickly as possible,
  and it is annoying to have to wait for this or
  that to arrive upon the scene.
  
  Preliminaries in the New House. - The business
  
  
  84
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  of a removal can be very much simplified if one
  can obtain possession of the now house some
  time before it is necessary to move into it. The
  house can then bo made ready, and entered with
  comfort.
  
  First of all, every chimney should be swept.
  Tlien whatever whitowasliing, papering or
  painting that is necessary should be done.
  It is fortunate for a new tenant when the
  landlord undertakes to do up the house
  throughout, and will give the choice of papers
  and colouring.
  
  When the workmen have finished, it will next
  be necessary to have all the floors scrubbed with
  carbolic soap, soda and a brush, and under no
  circumstances should one be satisfied with the
  superficial cleaning given by the painters, or even
  by the late tenants. Grates and windows can
  then be cleaned, and if it is winter time, coal
  should be ordered in and fires put on so as to
  thoroughly dry and air the rooms. The hghting
  and heating arrangements should be carefuUy
  tested and necessary alterations made, as it is
  most annoj-ing later on to have to disturb carpets
  or linoleum for the sake of laying a new gas-
  pipe or an electric wire. The water-pipes and
  taps should also be seen to, and the cistern
  thoroughly cleaned out.
  
  Then the question of floor covering should be
  considered. It is an immense help if all linoleum
  and any nailed-down carpets can be laid before
  the furniture is brought in. This is really
  the secret of being quickly settled. When once
  the carpets and linoleum are satisfactorily laid,
  then the furniture can be brought in with the
  happy feeling that it will not require to be moved
  again. Besides, it is much easier to fit and lay
  down a large carpet in an empty room than it is
  when heavy furniture has to be lift/od and moved
  from one place to another. Of course, if the
  carpets consist merely of small squares or large
  rugs, it would be wiser to defer laying them until
  later on in the proceedings. Linoleum in any
  C€we, and especially that which surrounds a
  room, should be put in position previous to the
  moving in of the furniture.
  
  Then with regard to curtains and blinds, if
  any of these can be put up beforehand, it will
  greatly add to the comfort of the first few days,
  even although the old house has to be robbed of
  them a trifle sooner in consequence.
  
  Packing. - While years ago it weis deemed
  necessary to pack all furniture, to tie wisps of
  straw round the legs of tables and chairs, and
  even sew each article into a sheet of sacking in
  order to preserve it from ill-treatment, now one
  can confidently leave the tables, chairs, and such-
  like to the removal men, who are in most cases
  trained specialists to the work. The largo vans,
  or pantechnicons, take most things, and especially
  the heavier articles of furniture, just as they are.
  It is also bettor to leave the packing of glass,
  china, and other breakables to the men, who will
  
  
  bring the necessary crates and straw for the
  purpose. They will be much more hkely to
  avoid breakages than any amateur packer,
  however careful he (or she) may be. It must
  be remembered too, that a removal contractor
  can only be held responsible for things he has
  packed himself, and not for those packed by the
  owner.
  
  Of course there are always a few things which
  can be packed beforehand, and if all small things
  can be stowed away in portable cases, the
  actual removal is done in a very short time.
  Books, for instance, can be safely packed ; they
  should be dusted first, and then put in cases
  lined with paper. Any precious volumes with
  fine or delicate bindings should be wrapped
  separately in paper, in order to prevent them
  from being scratched or rubbed. In the case
  of large heavy books, it is better to make them
  up in bundles, and put a piece of cord round
  them. If they have a valuable binding, they can
  be wrapped in paper as well. The packages
  must not be made too heavy. Music too may bo
  tied up in the same way.
  
  Clothing and personal belongings should also
  be packed. These will go very well in boxes
  and drawers. The latter can quite well be
  utilised, as the men simply carry out the different
  pieces of the chest, and put them in position
  again in the van, and nothing can come to harm.
  A towel or large cover should be laid over the
  contents and well tucked in. Household Unen
  should be packed away in the same manner.
  If there is no room for blankets and eider-downs,
  they can be made into a bale which can easily
  be lifted. Silver and other valuables should be
  put in a chest, and securely fastened.
  
  The Removing. - This shoiild always be com-
  menced early in the morning, at six o'clock in
  the summer, and at eight o'clock in the winter at
  the very latest. Althoiigh everything may be
  left to the workmen, as a rule, it is better for the
  members of the household to take a share in
  order to expedite matters. In fact, if the re-
  moval is to be got over rapidly, the only way is
  for each one to give assistance where h'^ or she
  can.
  
  Beds and bedding should always be sent in
  the first van, and placed where they will come
  to hand easily at the other end. Things should,
  as far as possible, leave the old house and arrive
  at the new in the sequence in which it is most
  convenient to handle them.
  
  As soon as the packing into the van is well
  on its way, a responsible person should, if
  possible, act as pioneer and start for the new
  house, so as to be on the spot when the first van
  arrives to direct the carrying in of the furniture.
  If this cannot be done, then each piece of furni-
  ture should bo marked, or labelled, so as to in-
  dicate the room for which it is destined. As
  far as possible, each article should be carried
  to its own room and nowhere else ; and in fact it
  
  
  GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK
  
  
  85
  
  
  may, in many cases, be actually put down in its
  proper place.
  
  A strip of coarse matting should be laid over
  each carpet, to prevent the meia's feet making
  marks.
  
  It is a good plan to get every bed that is to
  be slept in put up and made early in the evening,
  and then, even if it is ten o'clock before the last
  vanful of furniture is unloaded, one can shut the
  door and feel that at least a place of repose is
  secure. Otherwise, one is inclined to go on
  working at other things until a late hour, when
  there is httle strength left to make a bed far
  less put one together.
  
  The question of refreshment on the day of
  removal is also an important one. It is often a
  saving of time if the men can be provided with
  a lunch of bread and cheese, and beer or coffee ;
  and if it is intimated to them beforehand that
  this will be ready at a certain hour, it will save
  their time going off to some pubhc-house in
  order to get refreshments.
  
  A good tea at the other end should also be
  provided, if at aU possible.
  
  For the members of the family, cold refresh-
  ments, supplemented by hot drink, must suffice,
  and those who are not strong enough to support
  this frugal r6gime should be out of the way, if
  possible, on the removal day. Of course it
  sometimes happens that kind friends come
  forward and invite the party to a comfortable
  meal, and this of course is an untold blessing,
  not only from the point of view of the mere
  food question, but in regard to the respite
  afforded from the bustle and hurry of the
  day's work. Then at the other end, if a maid
  can be sent over in good time to light a fire and
  take a picnic basket wii/h her with necessaries
  for tea, this little meal will prove a comfortable
  welcome to the new home.
  
  Settling Down. - As soon as the bedrooms
  have been put fairly straight, it is perhaps best
  to give one's first attention to the sitting-rooms
  and kitchen, as when once these are in order
  and meals can be served with comfort, the worst
  of the removal is practically over.
  
  The stair carpet and hall rugs should be put
  down last of all, when all the carrying and extra
  walking backwards and forwards is at an end.
  
  Then there will no doubt be extra furniture
  required, and additions of various kinds to
  make, but it is just as well not to hurry the
  buying of new things, as it is much more easy
  to judge what is needed when everytiiing is in
  its place, and one has been in the house for a
  few days.
  
  It will of course be weeks before all the odds
  and ends are put finally in their places, but
  these trifles do not matter, and once the real work
  of removal is over and the new house begins to
  look ship-shape, it should only bo a pleasure to
  arrange the various trifles and knick-knacks to
  one's liking.
  
  
  SHUTTING UP A HOUSE
  
  If a house has to be shut up for three months
  or longer, it is better to lift all carpets, and to
  take this opportunity of having them sent away
  to be cleaned or beaten. Take down aU curtains
  and other hangings, shake them well and fold
  them up neatly. Remove all chair-covers, table-
  covers, antimacassars, &c., brush or shake them,
  and fold them up hkewise. Keep the furniture
  as much as possible to the centre of the room,
  where it will be safe from damp or soot, and
  cover everything with dust-sheets or large sheets
  of paper. Any valuable pictures should either
  be taken down from the walls or covered with
  fine gauze or muslin, to preserve them from dust.
  Light and fragile articles, such as ornaments and
  clocks, should also be covered in tins way.
  
  All soiled Unen should be collected and sent
  to the wash if possible.
  
  Close and fasten aU windows, and leave nothing
  open where rain can enter.
  
  Grease any metal fenders or fixe-irons with
  mutton fat, draw them away from the fixe-place,
  and cover them over.
  
  Turn off the gas from the main, and leave all
  waste-pipes connected with the water open.
  
  No food must be left behind, wliich would be
  hkely to smell or encourage mice and other
  vermin. Kitchen premises especially should be
  left well swept and as clean as possible.
  
  All valuables, such as silver and jewels, shovild
  be packed in a strong box and sent to the bank.
  
  Pull down all blinds, or if there is danger of
  their being spoilt with the sun, cover the windows
  with brown paper, fastening it up with strong
  drawing-pins. Close and bolt the shutters, and
  shut and lock all doors.
  
  Notice should also be given to the poUce that
  the house is closed, and they will give it special
  attention.
  
  WHAT TO DO IF FIRE OCCURS
  
  Fire accidents, large or small, are liable to
  occur in every house, and one ought to be pre-
  pared to take the necessary precautions to pre-
  vent the spreading of the flames.
  
  In the case of a partial fire, speedy action may
  be the means of putting it out at once. For
  instance, if a curtain catches fire, which fre-
  quently happens owing to its too close proxi-
  mity to a gas-bracket, it should be pulled down
  quickly (provided the person who does so is
  clothed in a woollen dress), and the flames
  crushed out with a piece of carpet or a rug, or,
  if the damage has not gone very far, they might
  be beaten out with a rug or wet cloth.
  
  A wet blanket or cloth is valuable for beating
  out flames wherever they are, or if the fire is
  on the ground water may be pom-ed over it. A
  syphon of soda-water is also a good fii'e-extin-
  guisher, and in the case of sudden fire, Jire
  
  
  86
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  grenades are excellent, and no large household
  should be without them. All that is necessary
  is to break the glass globe and sprinkle the con-
  tents over the burning place.
  
  Burning oil, as in the C£ise of a lamp being
  overturned, should be extinguished by tlirowing
  sand, earth, or ashes over it. Water would only
  help to spread the flames.
  
  If a person's clothing should catch fire the
  wearer ought to at once tlirow herself down on
  the floor and roll over and over, first wrapping
  herself in a rug or any other heav-y woollen
  article if anything of the kind is handy. If,
  when the accident occurs, another person is
  present, the latter should endeavour to ex-
  tinguish the flames by covering the victim with
  any hea%'y wooUen articles in reach, pressing
  them well over her and forcing her to maintain
  a recumbent position. Heavy table-clotlis are
  amongst the best things to smother the flames.
  It is a fatal thing for the burning person to rush
  out and call for help : as long as the upright
  position is retained the flames will spread, and it
  is always the face and upper parts which will be
  the most severely attacked.
  
  In all cases of fire the doors and windows
  should be kept closed as much as possible, as any
  draught only helps to fan the flames ; smoke
  follows the current of air, and flames follow the
  smoke.
  
  If the fire is of a more serious nature, the alarm
  should be given at once and the fire-engines sent
  for. Every effort must be made to escape and
  to help others to escape by the first means of
  egress. If aroused at night to find the house on
  fiire, wrap yourself in a blanket or rug and get
  
  
  out of the room at once. If the room is full of
  smoke tie a wot towel or handkerchief or even a
  wet stocking over the nose and mouth, and this
  will exclude the smoke and still permit of breath-
  ing. If the smoke is so dense that you are
  unable to stand upright, crawl along on the hands
  and knees, as the clearest air is always next the
  floor.
  
  Should the ascent and descent of the stairs be
  impossible, try to make your way to the window
  of a front room and if there are others in the
  house try to get them to do Ukewise. Unless
  some one is in the burning room the door should
  not be opened, and no attempt must be made to
  extinguish the fire until life has been saved.
  
  On no account should you throw yourself
  from the window, and if in extremity and
  no assistance is at hand tear up the sheets
  and tie the pieces together to form a rope,
  allowing good ends so that the knots will not
  slip. Fasten one end to a bedstead or other
  heavy piece of furniture near the window. Then
  slip the improvised rope out of the window and
  let yourself down hand under hand, taking
  advantage of the knots to keep yourself from
  slipping too quickly.
  
  Those who are helpless to let themselves down
  should have the end of the sheet tied round
  their waist and be lowered through the window.
  A mattress should if possible be thrown out of
  the window, as this might be the means of
  softening a fall if the sheet should happen to be
  too short.
  
  The most important thing in all cases of fire
  is not to lose one's presence of mind and not to
  waste a moment in taking action.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  This article deals with all that a housewife should know in regard to the management of the
  culinary department of her household. Useful hints are given as to the suitable ftirnishing and
  efficient cleaning of the kitchen premises, care of the kitchen range, and cooking by gas, electricity,
  and on oil-stoves. Each aspect of the commissariat department has also been considered, including
  such iniportant questions as the marketing and storing of provisions. The article concludes with
  a complete calendar of meat, fish, poultry, game, fruit and vegetables in season, which has been
  compiled for the purposes of easy reference.
  
  
  HOW TO FURNISH A KITCHEN AND
  1 SCULLERY
  
  The furnishings and fittings of the kitchen
  premises are very important - so much of the
  comfort of the household depends upon this de-
  partment and the way in which it is managed
  that it is well worth while to fit it up comfort-
  ably and suitably. When we consider that ser-
  vants not only have to live in a kitchen as we
  live in our dining-room and drawing-room, but
  that their weekly " afternoons " or " evenings
  out " constitute the only change they have from
  their surroundings, we ought to try to give the
  room in which they spend so much of their
  time as homeUke an appearance as possible.
  
  It often happens, however, that people who
  are most particular about having the other
  rooms of their house dainty and comfortable
  grudge the bare necessaries when anything in
  connection with the kitchen is concerned.
  
  The kitchen itself should be bright, airy,
  and roomy. Unfortunately, it is not always
  possible to have all these conditions fulfilled,
  especially where there are underground premises
  and an area, and the kitchen -window looks
  out on to a stone wall, but in such cases
  the best must be made of a bad job and
  a few additional inside comforts must make
  up for the want of outside dew. Sometimes
  the hght in premises of this kind may be in-
  creased by having the oatside wall painted
  white or a light cream colour.
  
  The ventilation must be good, and in addition
  to the doors and windows it is well to have a
  ventilator placed in the wall above the height
  of the window to allow the fumes of cooking to
  escape.
  
  The sanitary arrangements should also be
  carefully attended to, and there must be a good
  supply of water.
  
  The kitchen ought to be within easy reach
  
  
  87
  
  
  of the dining-room, and yet so placed that the
  odours of cooking do not reach other parts of
  the house. The larder and storeroom should
  also be close at hand to avoid any vmnecessary
  going backwards and forwards from one place
  to the other.
  
  Walls and Ceilings. - The ceiling of the kitchen
  ought to be smoothly plastered and then white-
  washed. This whitewash must be renewed
  every year, not only for cleanliness, but also to
  give more light. For the waUs glazed tiles are
  the ideal covering, as they can so easily be
  washed, or a high-tiled dado with distemper or
  other suitable finish above. But both these
  methods of wall -covering prove somewhat ex-
  pensive, and people of moderate means have
  to content themselves with sometliing a Httle
  cheaper. The walls may be washed all over
  with a simple distemper, and as this process
  costs very Uttle the distemper may be renewed
  whenever it becomes dirty. Pretty Hght
  colours, such as buff, pink, pale blue, or pale
  green are the most effective. Varnished paper
  makes another appropriate covering ; it leists
  well, looks bright, and can very easily be cleaned ;
  or, again, the Sanitary or so-called Washable
  paper might be used - this is less expensive than
  varnished paper, but it will not last so well nor
  stand so much cleaning. Specially prepared
  paints, such as Ripohn, Sanalene, and Muraline
  are also to be recommended ; they are to be had
  in a variety of shades, and make a kitchen look
  very pretty. Tlie woodwork in the kitchen
  should either be painted the same colour as
  the walls in a darker shade, or with wliite paint
  or a light oak stain.
  
  The Floor. - Tlie flooring of a kitchen varies
  very much according to locality. In some
  parts of the country we find red flags, in others
  glazed tiles, in others red or yeUow bricks, con-
  crete, or wooden boards, &c. Wlien the floor
  consists of flags, tiles, or bricks it does not, "is
  
  
  88
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  a rule, require fxirther covering, eis it can be
  easily washed, and one or two rugs or mats for
  standing on 6ire all that is necessary. But when
  there is a wooden floor it is important to cover
  it with some material that is easily washed, as
  boards soon become soiled and are very difficult
  to keep in order. Good linoleum is the best
  kitchen floor -covering, and one with a pattern
  is to be preferred to a perfectly plain one, as
  it does not show meirks so quickly. Inlaid
  linoleum is the best, as its pattern is ingrained
  in the material, and although the initial outlay
  is greater it comes cheaper in the end, as it is
  so much more durable than the other makes.
  (See also p. 21.)
  
  Fixtures. - The number of immovable fixtures
  in a kitchen varies considerably with the style
  of the house - they usually comprise a dresser,
  shelves, cupboards, a pulley for hanging up
  towels, &c., a roller for towel, gas or electric
  fittings, bells, sink and kitchen range or stove.
  
  The dresser is really the kitchen sideboard,
  and as a rule it is fitted against one of the walls
  and belongs to the house. If it has to be made
  to order, take careful
  measurements of the
  wall space you can allow
  and have it made to fit.
  The upper part is usually
  made with grooved
  shelves, on which the
  plates and dishes of the
  dinner-service are kept,
  or it may be fitted with
  shelves for jars with
  hooks along the edge of
  the shelf on which to
  hang small utensils. The
  top part of the dresser
  gives room for soup-
  tiu-een, vegetable dishes,
  sauce-boats, knife-tray,
  weights and scales, &c.
  - beneath there should be two or three drawers
  for holding spoons, knives, &c., and kitchen
  towels, while the lower part is fitted up with
  cupboards for holding dishes and the larger
  cookery utensils. If the kitchen is small, make
  the most of it by using the walls. It is a good
  plan to have a shelf carried roimd all the
  available wall space, and just as high as a
  servant can reach. When a number of hooks
  Kre required a strip of wood might be fixed
  below the shelf, and nails or hooks put into that.
  It is a bad practice to drive nails into the
  wall itself, as they are sure to come out and
  bring some of the plaster with them.
  
  Then there should be a well-constructed sink.
  Stone-ware or tiled sinks are the best, as they
  are the easiest to clean and keep in good order.
  The back of the sink should be made of some
  material which will not spoil with the splashing
  of the water; if not already fitted with tiles.
  
  
  Kitchen Dresser.
  
  
  a sheet of zinc might be fitted up or a sheet of
  " Emdeca," wliich is an imitation of tiles and
  very practical. (See p. 14.) Above the sink
  should be a plate-rack in which plates can be
  drained, and the necessity of drying thus avoided.
  Underneath might be one or two shelves or a
  
  
  Plate-Eack.
  
  small cupboard for keeping cleaning requisites
  - and at the right-hand side of the sink a
  sloping grooved board on which to lay dishes.
  Sec, to drain. A flap table might also be
  arranged at the side on which to place dishes
  when they are dried if table space is scanty.
  
  If there is a separate scullery this would
  naturally contain the sink, &c., and here all
  the washing up would be done. Tlio walls of
  the scullery should be lined with shelves,
  and as much as possible made of the available
  space. Tlie shelves on wliich saucepans are
  placed shoTjld be sparred, as this allows the air
  to get inside to dry them. If there is not much
  room for sheKdng, a saucepan-stand which can
  be placed either in kitchen or scullery is often
  found most valuable. A small cupboard or
  shelves underneath the sink
  wiU be found useful for keep-
  ing cleaning materials. Tlie
  scullery, like the kitchen,
  should be light and well
  ventilated, and unless the
  floor is tiled or flagged it
  should be covered in the
  same way.
  
  Cupboard accommodation
  is also most valuable in a
  kitchen. If this is inade-
  quate, it is sometimes pos-
  sible to have a cupboard
  fitted up on the wall for
  holding a small store of
  provisions. A recess or a
  corner can also be utilised Saucepan-Stand.
  for this purpose, and a joiner
  will be able to fit up a few shelves with a
  simple door at a very small cost.
  
  Every kitchen should be supplied with a
  pulley on which to dry kitchen towels (unless
  those can be hung elsewhere) and also a roller
  with brackets on which to hang a roller-towel.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  89
  
  
  The lighting of the kitchen is another im-
  portant point, and the light, whether it be gas
  or electricity, should be so arranged as to make
  it possible to see clearly both at the table and
  at the stove.
  
  The Kitcheu Range. - The most important
  fixture of all is the kitchen range. It is impos-
  sible to do good cooking vfithout a good stove.
  The open grate limits one's sphere of work con-
  siderably, and there is always the risk of getting
  food smoky and saucepans dirty. It is certainly
  best for roasting (a roast never tastes so well
  as when cooked in front of an open fire), also
  for broiling and grilUng, but with these its
  merits end. An open range is scarcely to be
  seen now in modern houses, the kitchener or close
  range has taken its place.
  
  There is an endless variety of kitcheners, all
  more or less similar but going under different
  names. A tenant has not usually a choice in
  this matter, but before taking a house it should
  always be seen that a proper stove has been
  provided and that it is in good working order.
  
  In choosing or bujdng a stove, do not look
  out for the cheapest kind procurable, but buy
  one of a thoroughly good make, and have it
  well fitted up. The material must be good.
  Cheap stoves are usually made of some Hght
  metal which wears out very quickly, causing
  great waste of fuel and much annoyance as
  well, while a weU-constructed one will be made
  of malleable iron, wrought iron or steel.
  
  A good stove should be provided with an
  adjustable bottom, which can be raised or
  lowered according to the size of fire required.
  Thus, when the stove is not being used for
  cooking purpose? the fire may still be kept in
  and the water wai'ineo, but with a very small
  consumption of fuel. There should also be a
  well-ventilated oven, a good boiler and water-
  supply, and a plate-rack on wliich to warm
  dishes.
  
  The best type of stove is usually convertible
  into an open range, and a cheerful fire can be
  arranged in the evening by simply sliding back
  the top plate, .i.
  
  It is a good plan to have a light screen made
  which can be hooked on to the front of the fire,
  as this serves as a great protection when any one
  has to stand near the stove to stir a sauce or
  do other cooking.
  
  Very often the reason why a kitchen range
  does not burn well is that it is not understood.
  It is important, therefore, that both mistress
  and servant should thoroughly understand the
  working of it, and also the method of cleaning
  before the stove is condemned as being in-
  efSciont. For cleaning, see p. 91.
  
  Furniture. - For the ordinary kitchen there is
  very Uttle movable fiu-niture required. Tlie
  table is the chief article, and this ought to bo
  as large as is convenient. If there is not much
  floor space available it is better to have it
  
  
  made with flaps, wliich can easily be put down
  when not in use. It ouglit to bo made of plain
  unpainted deal, and should be of a convenient
  height to work at and very steady on its legs.
  Ivitchen tables are generally made oblong with
  one or two drawers at the ends, which are
  always an advantage. Sometimes too a narrow
  shelf is put underneath on which articles can
  be placed when cooking is being done, thus
  keeping the table itself more clear.
  
  In larger kitchens a second table wiU always
  be found useful - a smaller and hghter one wliich
  can be moved about, or even a collapsible one
  wluch can be put aside when necessary.
  
  A fender may also be required and a simple
  curb is all that is necessary, although one made
  of steel will of course bo more ornamental. In
  very small kitchens the fender might be dis-
  pensed with altogether, and a hght
  screen hooked on to the front of the
  fire to prevent the cinders faUing out
  will take up much loss space. A
  strong poker, coal shovel and scuttle
  should also be provided. The best
  shape of scuttle is that known as a Coal-Hod.
  coal-hod ; it takes up little room,
  and is not easily knocked over like the scoop
  shape. The flue-rake and flue-brush are gener-
  ally supphod as part of the stove.
  
  The chairs should be of plain varnished wood,
  and the nimiber wiU depend upon how many
  maids there are - ^there should be one for each and
  one over. Tlian if the Idtchen is used as the
  maid's sitting-room, there ought to be one or two
  comfortable chairs for resting in the evening.
  Strong wicker ones or the hght-coloured Windsor
  ai'm-chairs are both suit-
  able- or even camp-chairs
  ■with a strong carpet cover
  might be used, as they can
  be folded up during the day
  and put out of the way.
  In any ca;Se it should be
  remembered that our maids
  require something a little
  better than a straight-
  backed wooden seat when
  their day's work is over.
  
  One or two strong rugs
  should also be supplied -
  
  sometliing of a nice bright colovu*. Pieces of
  stout carpet neatly bound at the edges will
  serve the purpose very well. A rule should
  be made that these rugs are rolled up at night
  and not put down again until the prmcipal
  work in the kitchen is finished the following
  day.
  
  A dark serge cloth might also be supplied
  to cover one of the tables and give it a less
  forbidding appearance.
  
  The arrangement of the window depends
  very much upon the style of the house. As a
  rule, a short muslin curtain across the Mrindow
  
  
  Windsor Chair.
  
  
  90
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  %
  
  
  is all that is necessary and all there is room for.
  Madras or strong washing muslin is tho best
  to use for the purpose, or, if preferred, a light
  casement cloth ; but it must be of a material
  that will wash well and not lose its colour in the
  tub. The curtain should be simply made with
  a hem top and bottom. If tho window is wide
  it may be better made in two parts with a
  division in tlie middle, but, if narrow, it will
  look better in one piece. The curtain should be
  half as wide again as the width of the window
  to allow for fulness. A hght brass rod should
  be fitted across the window at a convenient
  height and the curtain fixed to that either by
  means of small rings or by slipping the rod
  through the upper hem of the curtain. If the
  kitchen is large and the window wide, short side-
  curtains, of some pretty cretonne, linen, or
  casement cloth might add very much to the
  comfortable appearance of the room. These
  are easily washed, and, provided they arc
  not made too long, they will not be found an
  inconvenience. A simple brass or bamboo rod
  should be fixed across the window and the
  curteiins attached to that by means of rings sewn
  on to the upper hem or heading. By this
  means the curtains can easily be slipped off
  when they require wasliing.
  
  A good clock must not be forgotten when
  furnishing the kitchen - either one to hang on
  the wall above the kitchen mantelpiece or a
  small aliirm clock, wliich can easily be caxried
  about or taken to the maid's bedroom at
  night.
  
  Utensils. - The number and kind of utensils
  must be determined somewhat by the size and
  circumstances of the household.
  
  Unless there is a kitchen-maid it is a mistake
  to buy a largo quantity of utensils which require
  polishing and keeping bright. In fact, it is
  never wise to buy too many to begin with ; the
  more you have the more there will be to keep
  in order, and when means are limited and
  service difficult to procure it is much wiser to
  start with what is strictly necessary and add
  by degrees to the supply.
  
  In small houses and flats the kitchen utensils
  must be reduced to a minimum. Shelf accom-
  modation is scarce and there are few if any
  cupboards ; large and heavy saucepans would
  then be quite out of place and a multifarious
  collection of moulds and dishes only in the way.
  At the same time it is unreasonable to expect
  dainty cooking to be done without implements,
  and every facility should be given to those who
  undertake the work.
  
  It will generally be found that the better the
  cook the fewer utensils she will require, but
  still maids have difJerent ways of working, and
  it is always wise to give them what they ask
  for within reasonable limits.
  
  And, again, when service is short an effort
  should be made to give as many labour-saving
  
  
  appliances as possible, such aa a knife -cleaner,
  a mincing machine, a gas stove or gas ring, &c.
  
  Whatever is bought should be good of its
  kind. Buy plain and well-made articles and they
  will l£ist a lifetime.
  
  Saucepans. - Except for a large estabUshment
  where cooking has to be done in big quantities
  it is a mistake to invest in a number of heavy
  iron saucepans. One or two will be quite
  sufficient. The others might be made of steel,
  copper, aluminium, enamelled tin, or fire-proof
  w£ire.
  
  Both steel and copper saucepans are excellent
  and very durable, but they are expensive to buy,
  and those made of copper are liable to verdigris
  unless well looked after.
  
  Tlie enamelled tin saucepans will be found
  most useful, but they should be bought in a
  good quality. The hard grey enamel lasts
  better than the white, and will stand any
  amount of hard wear. The cheap make of
  this kind of saucepan should be avoided, as
  the lining soon begins to crack and peal off
  and then they become dangerous to use.
  
  Aluminium saucepans are also to be recom-
  mended, and they are rapidly supplanting all
  others made of metal, as they are absolutely
  safe from all fear of verdigris and they do not
  rust. They are easily cleaned (see p. 93), and
  nothing could be hghter to handle.
  
  Then there are the clay terrines and brown
  stoneware saucepans, so dear to the heart of
  the French housevnfe, and which are coming
  more and more into favour in this country
  (see p. 148).
  
  When once a trial has been made of the
  lighter style of saucepan, there will seldom be
  a return to the heavy iron make which are such
  a labour to clean, not to speak of the lifting.
  
  The following list of utensils with approxi-
  mate prices may prove useful to those who are
  starting housekeeping for the first time. It is
  suitable for a small house with one or two
  servants.
  
  s. d.
  
  1 Galvanised bath 2 2
  
  1 Galvanised pail 10
  
  I Tin enamelled basin 10
  
  1 Fish-kettle 3 3
  
  1 Frying-pan 10
  
  1 Iron stewpan 2 0
  
  1 Iron saucepan 19
  
  2 Enamelled saucepans. Is. 3d., Is. 9d. . 3 0
  or 2 Earthenware saucepans .... 2 0
  
  or 2 Aluminium saucepans 3 6
  
  1 Iron kettle 3 6
  
  1 Tin kettle 16
  
  1 Wire sieve 12
  
  1 Cooking board 2 3
  
  1 Pot-rest 3
  
  1 Rolling-pin 6
  
  1 Flour dredger 6
  
  1 Sugar dredger 6
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  91
  
  
  8. d.
  
  1 Funnel 3
  
  1 Cork-screw G
  
  1 pair of scissors 10
  
  1 Tin-opener 4
  
  2 Oven tins 14
  
  1 Cake tin 8
  
  1 Tray 2 0
  
  1 Sink tidy frorn 6J
  
  1 Gridiron or hanging grill 1 4|
  
  1 Steamer 6 0
  
  1 Set of skewers 6
  
  1 Grater 7
  
  1 Poker 9
  
  1 Egg whisk 6
  
  1 Soap dish 4
  
  1 Jelly mould 10
  
  1 dozen patty pans 4
  
  1 Palette knife 10
  
  1 Cook's knife 13
  
  2 Table knives and forks 1 10
  
  1 Potato knife 4^
  
  2 Iron spoons 6
  
  2 Wooden spoons 5
  
  2 Dessert spoons 8
  
  2 Tea spoons 4
  
  1 Toasting fork 4^
  
  1 Gravy strainer 10
  
  1 Knife-board 10
  
  1 Pepper and salt box 9
  
  1 Shovel 6
  
  1 Coal-scuttle 1 11
  
  1 Roasting tin and stand 16
  
  1 Long broom 16
  
  1 Yard broom 14
  
  1 Set shoe brushes 2 9
  
  1 Set stove brushes 2 9
  
  1 Sweep's brush 9
  
  2 Scrubbing brushes 16
  
  1 Nail brush 2
  
  2 Egg-brushes 3
  
  1 Sink brush 6
  
  1 Dish mop 4i
  
  3 Jugs 1 O'
  
  2 Pie dishes 16
  
  2 Pudding bowls 12
  
  1 Large mixing bowl 10
  
  2 Breakfast cups and saucers .... 11
  
  0 Plates assorted 16
  
  3 Dishes 2 9
  
  1 Sugar-basin 4
  
  1 Salt-cellar 3
  
  1 Lemon squeezer 4|
  
  Jars and tins will also be required for kitchen
  use, but it is seldom necessary to buy these.
  
  The following might be added if means allow -
  
  6. d.
  
  1 Mincing machine 4 8
  
  1 Spring balance 5 0
  
  1 Meat-saw 2 6
  
  1 Knife-sharpener 10
  
  1 Box-cutter 10
  
  
  8. d.
  
  6 Small moulds 10
  
  1 Frying basket 16
  
  1 Set of steps 5 0
  
  1 Omelet pan 16
  
  2 Sandwich cake tins 10
  
  1 Preserving pan 4 0
  
  2 Fancy moulds 3 0
  
  1 Pestle and mortar 3 0
  
  1 Fish slice 8
  
  1 Vegetable presser 16
  
  1 Flour tub or crock 2 6
  
  The above does not include utensils for
  laimdry work. See under special heading.
  
  If the housemaids' utensils are not separate,
  the following brushes, &c., will be required iii
  addition for household use : -
  
  8. d.
  
  1 Plate brush 9
  
  1 Carpet whisk 2 6
  
  1 Double banister bnosh 2 9
  
  1 Dust pan 10
  
  Note. - If there are several servants they
  should be allowed inexpensive crockery and
  glass for their own table use apart from the
  dishes used for cooking.
  
  The Cleaning of the Kitchen and Kitchen
  Utensils. - The kitchen may be cleaned either
  all in one day or by degrees. The latter method
  is generally found the most convenient, as it is
  less obtrusive and does not upset the comfort
  of the house so much. The saucepans and tins
  may be cleaned one day, cupboards and windows
  another, larder, passages, and outside premises
  another, flues and range another, with the
  scrubbing of the floors and tables, &c., to follow.
  
  This is entirely a matter of arrangement
  and must be planned to suit the ways and cir-
  cumstances of each individual household.
  
  An effort shoiild be made to have the cleaning
  done early in the day or at a time when there is
  no special cooking to attend to.
  
  Instructions for the various cleaning opera-
  tions will be found below. (See also Duties of
  the Cook, p. 49.)
  
  How to Clean a Kitchen Range - Weekly
  Cleaning. - A large strong apron, or overall, a
  pair of gloves, and a cap which covers the heiir
  should be worn when doing this piece of work.
  The kitchen, too, should be prepared by remo%-ing
  or covering with a dust-sheet or sheets of
  paper anything that is likely to be soiled with
  dust. Remove any kettles and saucepans from
  the top of the range and put the fender, plate-
  rack, and fire-irons to one side. Put down a
  hearth cloth and have sweep's brush, flue rake
  and brush, shovel and black-lead brushes in
  readiness. Commence by raking out the fire,
  and be particular to pass the rake well to the
  back to get all the cinders out of the boiler
  flue. Brush out oil cinders and ashes and
  save the former for making the fire later on.
  
  
  92
  
  
  THE wo:man's book
  
  
  To clean the flues commence at the top.
  Open the dampers and the httle doors or slides
  at the entrance to the flue or flues. Pass the
  flue brush up as far as it will go, then to the sides
  and tlien downwards, working it well against
  the side of the flue. The loose soot will all fall
  downwards to the back of the stove and will be
  removed later on. In a large stove there may
  be two or even three flues and each one must
  bo done in the same way. Brush the top of
  the dampers and brush the flue doors or slides
  and put them back in place.
  
  Now remove all rings and tops from the
  top of the stove and brush all the soot oflE
  the top of the oven with the sweep's brush,
  letting it fall either down the side of the oven
  or into the fire-place - the former is the simpler.
  Also pass the flue brush down the sides and back
  of the oven if there is an opening. Brush the
  under -side of all the top pieces and put them
  back in place. If there is a boiler or second
  oven at the other side of the range the top and
  sides of this must be cleaned in the same way.
  Every part must be freed from soot, and always
  work from the top downwards.
  
  \Vhen the top part is finished remove the httle
  door or shde wlaich will be found underneath
  the oven, put a good-sized shovel below it, pass
  the flue rake in at the hole and draw out all the
  soot. Repeat the same at the other side if
  necessary. The soot must be taken outside at
  once, and if there is a garden it should be kept
  for manuring purposes.
  
  Next dust the stove all over, and if the top is
  greasy wash it with hot water and soda. Thor-
  oughly dust or brush out the oven. If the
  shelves £ire greasy wash them out with hot water
  and soda, then whiten thfem with a paste of
  whitening and water, which will give them a
  nice clean appearance.
  
  To Black-lead the Stove. - Apply the black-
  lead very lightly with the black-lead brush, com-
  mencing with the highest part of the stove and
  doing a small piece at a time. Brush ofi with
  the hard briish and polish with the polisher
  (see p. 65).
  
  If there are tiles at the back of the stove
  these must be washed over with a soft cloth,
  soap, and water, or, if stained, with Brook's soap
  or sapolio.
  
  Clean all steel parts with fine emery paper or
  with fine bath-brick dust made into a paste with
  paraflin (see p. 72).
  
  Lay the fire, using the cinders along with some
  small coal, sticks, and paper.
  
  Sweep the hearth, wash it over with warm
  water, and whiten with soft sandstone. Put
  back the fender, fire-irons, &c., and put a light
  to the fire if required.
  
  Dally Cleaning. - The fire should be well raked
  out every day, the top of the stove brushed with
  the sweep's brush and polished with the stove
  bnishes. Black-leading should not be required
  
  
  more than once a week, except perhaps on the
  special parts which tire much used.
  
  Rub up the steel parts with emery paper, or
  wipe them with a soft duster or selvyt cloth,
  and clean the hearth.
  
  If properly done, the flues should not require
  cleaning more than once a week, but if a largo
  fire is kept constantly bui'ning it may be neces-
  sary to brush over the top of the oven more
  frequently - sometimes, too, in the case of small
  stoves the flues require cleaning more than once
  a week. This must bo regulated according to
  how the stove burns.
  
  Cleaning Saucepans. - Clean saucepans form
  one of the first essentials of good cooking. " You
  can judge a workman by liis tools " cannot be
  better appUed than to a cook, as no woman
  who has any pride in her profession would put
  up with such a thing as a dirty saucepan. They
  ought to be her special pride and care.
  
  Now that saucepans are used almost entirely
  on gas-stoves and close ranges whore there is
  no smoking from an open fire, there is no excuse
  for having tho outside coated with soot or black
  grease which comes off on everything that
  touches it. The handle and outside of the
  saucepan should receive the same attention as
  the inside.
  
  As soon as a saucepan is finished with, it
  should be filled with warm water and left soaking
  until it can be cleaned.
  
  Care must be taken not to pour cold water
  into a hot enamelled saucepan or there will be
  danger of cracking the hning ; in fact it is
  always a risky thing to do if the pan is very hot.
  Saucepans should be cleaned as soon as possible
  after they are taken from the fire and never
  allowed to remain dirty overnight except under
  very special circumstances.
  
  The method of cleaning will depend somewhat
  upon the Idnd of saucepan, but the rule that they
  must be properly clean and fi'ee from taint of
  any kind apphos to all.
  
  If the contents of a saucepan have become
  burnt boil some hot water and soda in it before
  attempting to do the cleaning.
  
  No saucepan must be laid away before it is
  perfectly dry unless it is placed wliere the air
  can reach the inside, tis on a sparred shelf.
  
  Iron Saucepans. - Wash them well in hot
  water and soda, scrubbing inside and out with
  a pot brush. Use a little sand, if necessary,
  to make them clean. Tlie sand must be used
  almost dry or it will not have so much power.
  When clean, rinse thoroughly so as to get rid
  of any grit and dry with a coarse cloth.
  
  Enamelled Saucepans. - Wash well in hot
  water and soda, and then apply a little Brook's
  soap or sapolio to take off any marks or dis-
  coloration. Salt or fine silver sand may also
  be used, or even crushed egg-shells ai'o very
  good for whitening the enamel. Rinse thor-
  oughly and dry with a cloth.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  93
  
  
  Tin and Steel Saucepans. - Clean in the same
  way as enamelled saucepans.
  
  Earthenware Saucepans. - Wash first in hot
  soapy water, then apply a little fine sand or
  sapolio, if necessary, to remove any marks.
  Rinse thoroughly and dry with a stout cloth.
  
  Copper Saucepans. - These require very special
  care, as, if once neglected, they are apt to har-
  bour verdigris, wliich is very poisonous. For this
  reason the tinned linings should always be kept
  intact, and directly there are signs of wear and
  the copper begins to show through the saucepans
  should be sent away to be re -tinned.
  
  Clean the inside of copper saucepans with a
  mixture of soft soap and Brook's soap or soft
  soap and fine silver sand apphed with a piece of
  flannel or soft cloth wrung out of warm water.
  For the outside use the skin of a lemon dipped
  in bath-brick dust, or salt and vinegar applied
  with a flannel. Well rinse the saucepan with
  hot water and dry quickly and thoroughly.
  The outside may be further polished by rubbing
  it up with a little dry whitening.
  
  Aluminium Saucepans. - Wash well with hot
  soapy water, using a little silver sand if necessary
  to remove any discoloration or burnt matter.
  Rinse thoroughly first in hot and then in cold
  water and then dry with a soft cloth. Soda
  must on no account be used with aliiminium
  ware, and patent cleaning mixtures should also
  be avoided. The outside may be polished
  occasionally with metal polish.
  
  The vessels should not be scraped, nor
  should the liglit brown enamel which will form
  inside be disturbed, as it is not only quite
  harmless, but adds considerably to tho life of
  the articles.
  
  Wooden Articles. - An effort should be made
  to make kitchen tables, boards, and wooden
  utensils as white as possible. The following
  will be required for cleaning them : a pail or
  basin of warm water, a piece of house flannel,
  scrubbing brush, sand, soap, and a stout cloth
  for drying. Wash the wood over with the
  flannel wrung out of warm water. Rub a little
  soap on the brush, dip in sand and scrub with
  the grain of the wood. Rinse weU in order to
  remove all grit and dry quickly with a clean
  cloth. Soda should not be used, as it tends to
  discolour the wood. Sand helps to whiten it.
  
  ^Vlien cleaning a kitchen-table the legs should
  not be forgotten. If plain wood they may be
  scrubbed in the same way as the top, but if
  painted they must only be wiped over with a
  damp flannel and di-ied.
  
  Wooden utensils must not be put too near a
  fire to dry or they will warp ; they ought to be
  placed upright where the air will get round
  them.
  
  Sieves. - A sieve should be cleaned as soon as
  possible after it has been used. If any substance
  is allowed to harden on it the cleaning will be
  much more diflficult. Wash thoroughly with a
  
  
  little hot water and soda and scrub well with a
  bnish. If it is a wire sieve hold it up to the
  light and see that none of the Httle holes are
  blocked up. Be particular also to scrub well
  round the sides where the rim joins the surface
  part. Rinse well and dry with a strong cloth.
  The sieve should then be put in a warm place
  to dry. If this is not attended to a wire sieve
  will become rusty and a hair one coated with
  mildew.
  
  Sieves mxist always be kept in a dry and clean
  place.
  
  Tin Lids, Moulds, and Dish Covers. - Hot water
  with a little soap powder or plain soap should
  be used for wasliing these. They must be well
  rinsed and then dried at once.
  
  Saucepan lids should be washed or at least
  well wiped with a cloth each time after use.
  The rim must have special attention, as any
  grease from a stew or such-hke wiU lodge there.
  It is a good plan to give all saucepan lids a good
  washing once a week.
  
  A brvish may be used when washing fancy
  moixlds of any kind. When the insides become
  difficult to clean the moulds should be put into
  a saucepan with hot water and a little soda, and
  boiled for half-an-hour. This will loosen any
  matter or burnt pieces which may adhere to
  them. They may also be secured with a little
  silver sand, or Brook's soap may be used to
  remove any discoloration. Thorough rinsing
  wiU be necessary.
  
  All tinned goods must be well dried before
  being put away, as they are liable to rust.
  
  Polishing. - Tins that are put up for show may
  be polished to make them look bright, but this
  should never be attempted before making sure
  that they are quite free from grease. IMake a
  smooth pastљ with a Httle whitening and water
  - rub this on the tins with a piece of flannel, and,
  when dry, rub off with a duster. A soft brush
  may be used to remove the whitening from any
  corners. The inside of moulds should never
  be polished.
  
  A few drops of ammonia may be added to the
  whitening, but as the tinning of some moulds and
  lids is very tliin, strong cleansers should as a rule
  be avoided.
  
  Zinc. - Sometimes the surround of a sink is
  covered with zinc, and tliis may be cleaned in
  the following way : Scrub first with hot soapy
  water to which a little soda has been added.
  Rinse and dry. The zinc may then be polished
  with a little whitening mixed to a paste with
  turpentine. Apply with a piece of flannel,
  and when dry rub off with a duster.
  
  To Clean Floors, Linoleum, &c. - See " Work
  of the House," p. 66.
  
  Baking Tins. - Wash well in very hot water
  with a little soda in it, using a strong brush and
  a little sand if necessary. Rinse well and dry
  with a coarse cloth. If a roasting-tin has
  become very brown and is hard to clean, let it
  
  
  u
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  soak in hot water and soda for an hour or two
  to soften the burnt substance.
  
  Kitchen Knives and Forks. - Wipe these with
  a cloth wrung out of liot water to remove any
  grease, but do not allow them to lie in hot water,
  wliich would tend to loosen the handles. Then
  rub off any stains with a little Brook's soap or
  sapoho applied rather dry on a piece of flannel.
  Rinse off and dry with a knife-cloth. It is not
  necessary to polish kitchen knives on a knife-
  board ; it only wears them vmnecessarily.
  
  Kitchen Cloths. - At the end of the day all
  cloths which have been used and are soiled
  should be washed in soapy water with a little
  soda ; then thoroughly rinsed, wrung out, and
  hung up to drj'. At the end of the week they
  ought to be laid aside in order to have a more
  thorough washing with the rest of the household
  linen (see p. 276), and a fresh supply put into
  use.
  
  Pudding Cloths. - After a pudding cloth has
  been used it should be tlirown into hot water
  with a little soda and allowed to soak for half-
  an-hour or so. Then wash out and rinse with
  care until no trace of the soda water remains.
  Dry in the open air if possible. Fold up care-
  fully and keep in a clean place. A pudding
  cloth must only be used for its own special
  purpose. If the above process is not sufficient
  to make the cloth clean it ought to be boiled
  in a saucepan for half-an-hoirr with hot water
  and a small piece of soda and then rinsed in the
  same way. The use of soap and soap powder
  should bo avoided as far as possible.
  
  Jelly Cloths. - Wash in the same way as
  pudding cloths.
  
  Care of the Sink. - This is a very important
  matter in the management of the kitchen and
  scullery, and a sink left in a dirty and greasy
  state, especially the last thing at night, will at
  once denote a careless and untidy worker.
  
  Every sink should be provided with a sink
  basket or tidy and a sink brush. The former is
  
  
  Sink Bafiket.
  
  xised to place over the opening to keep back any
  tea-leaves, vegetable parings, or other refuse
  which might block the pipe. An old colander
  will servo the purpose very well.
  
  Do not throw anything but water down a sink,
  anf' if the water is greasy flush it well afterwards
  with hot soapy water. It is a good plan also to
  pour down some very hot soda and water when
  the washing up is finished.
  
  If water in which vegetables have been cooked
  
  
  is not kept for making soup, it should never be
  poured down a sink, as it would cause an un-
  pleasant smell, but should bo emptied straight
  into a drain or outside in the garden.
  
  An effort should be made to keep the pipe and
  trap (an elbow -like bend in the pipe just below
  
  
  Sink Brush.
  
  the sink) in good order by preventing grease and
  refuse collecting in them. If tliese become
  choked and clogged an unnecessary expense
  must be incurred to have them cleared out, not
  to speak of the annoyance. Do not be afraid
  of plenty of hot water when washing up ; it is
  greasy luke-warm water which clogs the pipe
  sooner than anything.
  
  WTien the washing up is finished the sink
  should be well scrubbed out with some hot
  water and soda and a little soap, rinsed with hot
  water, and then finally the cold pipe should be
  allowed to run. If the sink is discoloured, use
  a Uttle sand or Brook's soap. The sink brush
  and any dish clothes must also be washed out
  and hung up to dry. Also any tub or basin that
  has been used for weishing up.
  
  Refuse. - In every household there must
  necessarily be a certain amount of rubbish to
  dispose of consisting of ashes, sweepings from
  floors, broken crockery, old tins, food remains,
  &c.
  
  Part of this refuse should be put into a dust-
  bin or ash-pit, with either of which every house
  should be provided, while the remainder should
  be burnt.
  
  The ash-pit is more frequently found in country
  districts where the removal of rubbish cannot be
  so frequent as in towns. It is usually built of
  brick or stone and should be well cemented and
  placed at some distance from the house.
  
  The best kind of dust-bin is one made of
  galvanised iron and round in shape. The size
  wiU depend upon the needs of the hou&ohold,
  but it is better to have two, if necessary, of a
  medium size than one that is too heavj' to be
  lifted. Those dust-bins are very often provided
  by the landlord and belong to tlie house.
  
  There should always be a hd to fit the dust-
  bin to prevent damp from entering or dust from
  flying about. It should be placed at least a
  few feet from the house and never near a win-
  dow, and it must be removed and thoroughly
  emptied by the dustman twice or at least once
  a week.
  
  Nothing but dry refuse should be put into a
  dust-bin unless it can be emptied very frequently,
  as damp favours decomposition and very soon
  causes an unpleasant and very unhealthy smell.
  Animal and vegetable refuse in this case is better
  burnt, and if there is a kitchen range in use it
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEX
  
  
  Ud
  
  
  should not be a difficult matter to dispose of all
  vegetable payings, tea-leaves, and such -like by
  this means.
  
  There are two ways of burning food remains.
  They may either be dried slowly at the back of
  the fire or underneath the grate, after which
  they will burn quite readilj% or they may be
  put into the stove in small quantities when the
  fire is very bright and hot enough to consume
  them quickly. If refuse is put on to a low fire
  in a damp condition it will cause a most un-
  pleasant smell.
  
  Needless to say, it is the duty of the mistress
  to see that nothing is thrown out or burnt
  except that which is absolutely of no value.
  In some houses the dust-bin is one of the most
  fruitful soiu-ces of waste. (See Law in regard to
  Removal of Refuse, p. 382.)
  
  COOKING BT GAS
  
  Gas Stoves. - There is much to be said in favour
  of a gas stove, and if properly managed it can
  be a great saving of time, labour, and expense.
  It can either be used to supplement a kitchen
  range where there is a large amount of cooking
  to be done, or in small houses it can be made to
  take the place of a coal stove altogether.
  
  It is especially useful in flats where ladies
  very often have to do all their own work or the
  
  
  Breakfast Cooker.
  
  greater part of it themselves, and where actual
  labour mtist be reduced to a minimum.
  
  If the whole stove is not required and the
  oven part would be of Uttle or no use, a small
  griller or even a gas ring is often a great com-
  fort and saving. It can be placed on the top
  
  
  Gas Boiling Ring.
  
  of the range or on a small table in the scullery,
  and will often save the keeping up of a fire for
  the sake of boiling a kettle or doing some light
  cooking in the evening. A httle griller would
  also be found a great boon in the morning when
  an early breakfast has to be prepared, as it will
  
  
  not only boil a kettle but make toast or grill
  fish or bacon at the same time. A very nice
  griller and boiler can be bought for 7s. 6d. or
  8s. 6d., wlxile a small boiling ring will only
  cost two or three shillings plus the india-rubber
  tubing (6d. to 9d. per foot) required for attaching
  it to a gas bracket.
  
  Gas stoves can be had in different sizes and
  various makes. Improvements are constantly
  being made, and there is great competition
  among the different makers as to who will pro-
  duce the most perfect article. Before bujdng
  one it is a good plan to go to one of the Gas
  Company's offices or exhibitions where all
  the different kinds of stoves are displayed, and
  where they can often be seen in actual use.
  The newest make of gas cookers is well raised
  above the floor, which saves a great deal of un-
  necessary stooping, and also does away with the
  necessity of having a slab on which to place the
  stove for the sake of protection. Those with
  enamelled Hnings are the most easily kept in
  order. The size chosen must depend upon the
  amount of cooking to be done and the oven
  space required, and also upon the size of the
  kitchen. It is a mistake to have one larger
  than necessary, as it always means a greater
  consumption of gas to heat the oven, &c.
  
  Tlie price of gas stoves runs from about £4
  to £12 according to size, while they can also be
  hired at a rental of about 2s. 3d. per quarter
  and upwards. In fact, in many cases it is
  better to hire than to purchase, as the Gas Com-
  pany not only supply the stove but keep it
  in repair, and will change it when desired for one
  of another description.
  
  It is very important to have a gas stove
  properly fitted up and to see that there is the
  necessary ventilation. The work should be
  put into the hands of a capable workman,
  because tmless the pipe to which the stove is
  connected is of the right size and there is suffi-
  cient pressure of gas, the stove will not work
  properly. It is sometimes a good plan to have
  a separate meter for the gas stove in order to
  regulate the consumption of gas.
  
  How to Use a Gas Stove. - It is also very
  important to know how to use a gas stove,
  otherwise there may be great waste of gas and
  many spoilt dishes.
  
  Tlie Gas Companies give special demonstra-
  tions all over the country where the working
  of the various stoves is fully explained and a
  cookery lesson given at the same time. Tliey
  are also beginning to send out lady demonstrators
  to private houses to show how each part of the
  stove should be used in order to secm-e the best
  possible results for the smallest consumption of
  gas ; but the hints given below may be of use
  to those who cannot avail themselves of these
  special lessons.
  
  Every gets stove is provided with several
  biu-ners on the top and each btirner has a special
  
  
  96
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  tap in connection witli it. There will also be a
  special tap for the oven.
  
  A taper is preferable to matches for lighting
  the gas.
  
  Do not turn on more taps than are actually
  required at one time, and be careful to tiu-n off
  the gas directly you Imve finished using it.
  V\lien about to uso the oven open the door
  first, turn on the gas, and then apply the light.
  Be sure that all the little burners inside are
  lighted and on both sides. If they shoiild become
  clogged with grease or other matter the little
  holes must be cleared with a needle or fine wire.
  Never keep the gas burning longer than is neces-
  sary- for instance, when once the contents of a
  kettle or saucepan have come to the boil the
  merest flicker of light will keep them simmering.
  
  The large round burner should not be used
  when the smaller one is sufficient. Then, again,
  when the griller is being used a saucepan or
  kettle of water should always be placed on the
  top to utilise the top heat as well as that of
  imderneath.
  
  Gas maj' also be economised by using a steamer
  or patent cooker (see p. 148) in which several
  different articles can bo cooked one above the
  other with only one jet of gas underneath. It
  is also a waste of gas to use hea\'y saucepans,
  as they require an unnecessary consumption of
  gas to bring them to the boil. Steel, aluminium,
  and enamelled saucepans are all suitable, also
  the fireproof china and the glazed earthenware
  ones. The saucepans must also be clean at
  the foot ; if there is a coating of soot or black
  grease it acts ais a non-conductor of heat, and
  this again will cause a waste of gas. It is always
  better, if possible, to keep a separate set of
  saucepans for a gas stove and not to use them
  indiscriminately for a gas cooker and a coal
  stove.
  
  Tlie flame of gas must not be allowed to blaze
  up the sides of a saucepan, but only underneath.
  
  When once the oven has been properly heated
  the light should for most purposes be turned
  down half way, and in some cases even lower.
  Then the cooking should be so arranged that
  when the oven is lighted it should be made use of
  to the fullest extent, two or three dishes being
  cooked in it at the same time. For instance,
  if there is a small roast it may be cooked on a
  roasting-tin on the bottom shelf, while such
  things as a milk pudding, potato or macaroni
  pie, baked potatoes, or stewed fruit might be
  cooking above. Or, when pastry is being cooked,
  cakes or scones might be cooked at the same
  time. It would not, however, do to cook pastry
  with a roast, as the air of the oven would be too
  moist. It is a waste of gas to light the oven to
  cook one dish.
  
  To Grill. - A special prill pan is supplied with
  every gas stove, and this can be used for many
  purposes, such as for cooking a chop, steak,
  kidneys, bacon, fish, or in fact anything that
  
  
  could bo cooked on the ordinary grill. Very
  good toast can also be made vmder the grill.
  
  Place the grill pan under the griller, hght the
  gas and wait until the griller is red hot before
  putting the meat or whatever is being cooked
  underneath. Then proceed eis for ordinary
  griUing (see p. 107), turning the meat and reduc-
  ing the heat as required.
  
  To Make Toast. - The gas should bo turned
  down after the griller is once hot. Tlie bread
  must be watched very carefully and turned
  when necessary. The toast must not be made
  too quickly or it will be soft and heavy.
  
  To Use the Oven. - A gas oven generally con-
  tains two or three grid shelves and always one
  solid shelf. The latter is used to throw down
  the heat, and is placed above anything that
  requires browning. Nothing should bo placed
  on the soUd sheK or it will burn, with the excep-
  tion of Uquid things or anything that can be
  placed in a tin of water. The top of the oven
  is always the coolest part. When dishes in
  course of baking are becoming too brown before
  being sufficiently cooked, the solid shelf should
  be removed altogether.
  
  It used to be thought necessary to place a tin
  of water at the foot of the oven, but this is not
  the CEise.
  
  When roasting meat the joint should either
  be hung on a hook attached to a bar which runs
  across the top of the oven or put on a roasting-
  tin placed on one of the grid shelves at the
  lower part of the oven. If the former method
  is adopted the shelves of the oven will require
  to be removed and nothing else can be cooked
  at the same time. The thickest part of the
  joint must always be hung downwards. Heat the
  oven well before putting the meat in, and after
  the first ten minutes reduce the gas one-half or
  even more according to the amount of pressure ;
  follow in fact the general rules for roasting
  (see p. 165).
  
  When baking cakes the oven should first be
  thoroughly heated and then the gas turned
  down more or less according to the special kind
  of cake, and whether it requires a moderate or
  hot oven. Place the cake or cakes on the grid
  shelf and below the browning shelf, and gradu-
  ally reduce the heat until the cakes are ready.
  If the cake is large it may be bettor to keep out
  the solid shelf altogether and even to cover it
  over with a double piece of kitchen paper to
  prevent its taking too much colour. With
  large cakes, too, it is a good plan to leave them
  in the oven for about half-an-hour after the gas
  has been turned off, and to let them dry slowly
  in the gradually reducing heat. The same rules
  will apply to the baking of pastry.
  
  If a little care is taken and attention given
  to details a gas oven is really very easy to
  manage, and after a little practice one becomes
  quite exi>ert at regulating the heat to a
  nicety.
  
  
  FOOD AN"D THE KITCHEN
  
  
  97
  
  
  How to Clean a Gas Stove - Weekly Cleaning. -
  
  Put down a hearth-cloth and have in i-eadiness
  a pail of hot water and soda, one or two strong
  cloths or swabs, and black-lead brushes, &c.,
  for cleaning purposes. Remove the bars from
  the top of the stove and wash these in the pail
  of hot water, using a brush if necessary. Wash
  the top of the stove, being very careful to make
  the burners clean ; sometimes it may be neces-
  sary to clean out the httle holes with a piece
  of wire or a fine skewer if they have become
  clogged. Wash also the tray under the burners,
  the oven shelves, the sides of the oven, which
  are sometimes fitted with movable linings, and
  the tin which stands at the foot. If there are
  enamelled linings, as in some of the stoves, a
  little salt or Brook's soap may be used for
  cleaning purposes and also for the oven tin to
  remove any brown marks or other discoloration.
  
  Then black-lead the bars, the top and body of
  the stove, and put back the different parts in
  their proper places. Polish the brass taps with
  metal polish, rub up the steel with fine emery
  paper, and the stove is finished.
  
  Daily Cleaning. - If the stove is thoroughly
  cleaned once a week it will not require black-
  leading the other days ; it will be sufficient to
  give it a good brush over with the harder
  polishing brush, to wash the tray underneath
  the biu-ners, and the oven tin if the oven has
  been used.
  
  Neither grease nor any kind of food which
  may have been spilled during cooking should
  ever be allowed to remain on a gas stove, but
  must be washed off at once with a cloth wrung
  out of hot water and soda, otherwise an un-
  pleasant smell will be caused the next time the
  gas is used.
  
  COOKING BY ELECTRICITY
  
  Although we have long been accustomed to
  electricity as a Hghting agent and even for
  heating purposes, electric cooking stoves have
  not yet become common. There are, however,
  several different makes to be had, and the pi'ice
  of some of them is by no means prohibitive.
  
  One of the simplest and most economical
  stoves on the market is the " Tricity " cooker ;
  it is so simple, so easily regulated, so perfectly
  controlled and so safe that it cannot fail to
  appeal to those who try it. There are different
  types of this stove - The Single Cooker, The
  Duplex Cooker, and the Extension Cooker,
  while the ovens are sold separately.
  
  The Single Cooker can be used for grilling,
  toasting, boiling, steaming, stewing, heating
  irons, airing clothes, or as a radiator to warm a
  room. The round plate on the top of the stove
  is raised to a dull red or lesser heat controlled
  by means of two switches, and any degree of
  heat from " very hot " to " low simmering "
  can be obtained.
  
  
  Electric cturent is brought to the stove
  through a flexible steel-covered cable which
  ensures absolute safety. The cable is ten feet
  in length and is attached to a wall -plug. The
  
  
  "Tricity" Stove.
  
  1. Single Boiler. 2. Oven. 3. Extension Boiler.
  4. Grill Pan. 5. Toaster.
  
  cooker can easily be moved when desired within
  the range of the length of the cable, and, when
  in use, should be placed upon a table or on a
  wooden pedestal as shown in engraving. It
  should be a convenient height for working at.
  
  Special sets of cooking utensils are sold for
  use with this cooker. They are qtiite simple, in
  both metal and earthenware and without wires
  of any kind, but one important point about
  them is that each article is absolutely flat at the
  base so as to obtain good contact with the hot-
  plate and thus make the cooking more rapid and
  economical.
  
  The Duplex Cooker has two hot-plates, and its
  uses are the same as those of the Single Cooker.
  
  The Extension Cooker has also one hot-plate,
  and is generally used in conjunction with one of
  the other cookers or to give top heat to the oven.
  It is also useful alone for boiling, stewing, and
  similar simple operations.
  
  Ovens too can be bought in two sizes, and are
  heated by being placed on the top of a Single
  or Duplex Cooker. Tlie larger size is quite
  sufficient for the needs of the average household.
  
  The following is the working cost of the
  " Tricity Cooker " with electricity at a Id. a unit.
  
  1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for 5 hours
  
  at lowest heat.
  1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for IJ hours
  
  at greatest heat.
  
  Full particulars regarding price, use, &c.,
  can be obtained by writing to the makers, the
  Berry Construction Co., Ltd., Chaxing Cross
  House, London.
  
  COOKING ON OIL STOVES
  
  A small oil stove may sometimes be a con-
  venience when neither gas nor electricity ia
  within reach. In summer, when a big kitchen
  
  Q
  
  
  98
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  fire is not required, a stovo of tlus description
  will often perform all the cooking opcratioiis
  necessary. Being independent of any fittings,
  it can be moved about at will, and placed
  wherever it is most convenient. Sometimes,
  too, in country quarters where the kitchen
  range is inadequate for the cooking required, an
  oil stovo will bo found of valuable assistance,
  and it can e^•en be used in an out-house if the
  kitchen is small and inconvenient.
  
  Tliey are to bo had in various sizes, ranging
  from a small stove on which only one saucepan
  or kettle can be placed, to a large family stove
  with oven, boiler and accommodation for several
  saucepans as well. It is important to buy a
  stove of a thoroughly good make, and of late
  years there have been so many improvements
  made in their construction that they are more
  easily regulated and there is less danger of their
  smoking than formerly.
  
  It is always well to see the stove at work
  before buying it, and to obtain full instructions
  as to its use, as with each special make there are
  certain points which require explanation. One
  of the greatest objections to oil stoves is their
  smell, but tliis can be to a large extent, if not
  altogether, avoided by proper management
  and care.
  
  To secure the best results, care must be taken
  to keep the stove very clean and to use good oil.
  The wicks, too, must fit properly and be kept free
  from all charring. Tlie oil-receivers should be
  well filled before using the stove, and the oil
  must not bo allowed to biirn too low.
  
  It is also important to stand the stove out of
  a draught, and for this reason, as well as for the
  sake of convenience, it is better to raise it above
  the ground. It may be placed either on a simple
  four-legged stand or if it is a portable stove it is
  a good plan to have a box made which will serve
  at the same time as packing-case and a stand
  upon which to place it when in use. (For
  Cleaning and Trimming, see p. 77.)
  
  COAL AND OTHER FUEL
  
  Arrangement of the Coal Cellar. - A good-sized
  coal cellar is always an advantage in a house, as
  there will then be room to store not only a
  quantity but also at least two different kinds of
  coal. The contents of the cellar should be so
  arranged that each kind can easily be found,
  and a supply of slack or coal dust should also be
  kept in one corner.
  
  \\Tien a fresh supply of coal is ordered it must
  not be thrown in on the top of the old dust,
  but this should first be scraped to one side and
  used along with the larger pieces. If this is
  onco buried there becomes an accumulation of
  dust in the cellar which is never used up.
  
  A strong coal shovel should be kept in the
  cellar, also a hatchet for breaking the coal when
  necessary. A large lump of coal should always
  
  
  be broken on the gi'ound and not on the top of
  other coal, which would in all probability pro-
  duce an unnecessary amount of small coal and
  dust.
  
  The Buying of Coal. - Coal is always cheaper
  if it can bo bouglit in largo quantities - by the
  sack or bag is one of the most expensive ways
  in which it can be procured. Naturally the
  amount ordered must depend upon the accom-
  modation there is for storing. The prices are
  generally much cheaper in summer than in
  winter, and, if convenient, there is a distinct
  advantage in laying up a store at this time of
  year. Diu-ing the months of June, July, and
  August is the most advantageous time to buy.
  Sometimes it is possible to make an arrangement
  with the coal company that if the purchase is
  made in the summer the coal will only be
  delivered a ton or half a ton at a time as
  required.
  
  It is important to buy the right kind of coal
  for the different ranges or fire-places. Range
  nuts or cobbles are excellent for kitchen use, and
  it would be most extravagant to use finer coal
  for this purpose. Coke, which is cheaper than
  coal, is often burnt along with the range nuts.
  A larger and better kind of coal will lie required
  for use in the sitting-rooms. The housekeeper
  should see that the coal with which she is
  supphed does not contain too much dust. A
  careful watch should always be kept on this.
  
  Coal should always be ordered from a good
  reliable merchant, and, if possible, from a depot
  in one's own neighbourhood so as to avoid any
  extra charge for carriage. The price of coal
  fluctuates very much according to the supply.
  It is also affected by laboiu- disputes involving
  strikes, lock-outs, &c., and is, as a rule, cheaper
  in localities which are in close proximity to a
  coal-field.
  
  Householders who live in flats should ask for
  their coal to be delivered in half -sacks, as these
  are easier to carry up a number of stairs.
  
  Economy in the Use of Coal. - An extravagant
  use of coal is one of the greatest soiu"ces of waste
  in a house, but, with careful management, much
  can be done to economise in this direction with-
  out in any way reducing the amount of comfort
  to be gained from the fires.
  
  Fortunately the construction of stoves and
  grates has been very much improved of late
  years, and what are known as slow combustion
  stoves are fitted up in all the modern houses.
  Small coal should always be burnt along with
  the large. A ton of coal always produces a
  certain amount of dust, but if this is not suffi-
  cient an extra amount can always bo ordered
  by the sack.
  
  When a room is not in actual use or when the
  weather is mild and it is yet advisable that the
  fire be kept in, a lump of coal should be put on
  when the fare is rather low and then a good
  shovelful of damp slack placed on the top.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  99
  
  
  Tlais is called " backing the fire," and by this
  means it can be kept in for several hours, and
  when a blaze is wanted a little breaking up with
  the poker is all that is necessary. Continual
  poking is also a cause of waste ; the less a fire
  is touched the better, and if it is desired to keep
  the room at an equal temperature the fire should
  never be allowed to burn too low, but a few
  pieces of coal put on gently from time to time
  with a sprinkling of dust.
  
  Sometimes the fire-place in a room is unneces-
  sarily large, and this can be remedied by the
  use of fire-bricks, which will reduce the space
  and at the same time throw out heat. Clay
  balls are sometimes used for the same purpose.
  Briquettes are also used to economise coal.
  They are made of coal dust moistened and formed
  into blocks. Used along with a Uttle moistened
  slack they will keep a fire in for hoirrs, even all
  night, and they are a great convenience in this
  way. The only disadvantage to their use is
  that they cause a lot of dust when broken up.
  
  Cinders should also be utilised. The larger
  cinders in the room -fires should be used when
  laying the next fire, while the smaller ones
  which have been sifted from the ashes can always
  be used in the kitchen-fire or in a boiler-fire .if
  one is used.
  
  Wood. - Logs of wood are frequently used as
  fuel, and in country districts a supply of logs
  can often be had quite cheaply, and they make a
  nice cheery fire in the winter. In town, however,
  they are not as a rule any cheaper than coal.
  Firewood can be bought quite cheaply in
  bundles, but even with this extravagance should
  be avoided. One bundle should be made to
  light two fires ; in fact, with care it can be made
  to serve for three. Tuere are also different
  kinds of firelighters to be had, and sometimes
  these are cheaper than the bundles of wood as
  they light the fire more easily, especially if the
  coal is of a hard make.
  
  THE LARDER
  
  A hoiise of any considerable size usually con-
  tains a larder in which perishable food can be
  kept, and the importance of this room cannot be
  over-estimated. The ideal arrangement is to
  have it in two parts, so that dairy produce may
  be kept separate from butcher -meat, &c.
  
  Position. - Whenever possible the larder
  should have a northerly or easterly aspect and
  comparative absence of bright sunshine. It
  is important, too, that it should be conveniently
  near the kitchen, although not near enough to
  be influenced by the heat of the range. It
  should never be placed near a lavatory ; neither
  shovild the window overlook that part of the
  premises where the gulleys to receive the contents
  of the waste-pipes are placed.
  
  Arrangement and Fittings. - The ceiling should
  be lime- or white-washed. The walls too, if they
  
  
  are not tiled, should be lime- or white-washed or
  painted with some sanitary paint which can
  easily be washed.
  
  The shelves aie best made of stone, marble, or
  slate, although wooden ones are sometimes fixed.
  In any case it is well to have a slab of slate or
  marble on wliich special things, such as butter
  and milk, can be placed to keep them cool.
  
  Window-sills shoiold be Uned if possible with
  glazed tiles, and the floor should be of stone or
  tiles (red flags) or concrete.
  
  Ventilation. - There should be one or more
  windows with which to ventilate the larder.
  If there are two one should be glazed to let in
  Ught and the other should be fitted with wire
  gauze or perforated zinc, fine enough to exclude
  all flies. If there is only one window it should
  be kept open constantly, and a piece of musHn
  should be stretched tightly across it to keep
  out fhes and dust. There must be a through
  ventilation, and sometimes it is advisable to have
  one of the panels of the door fitted with perforated
  zinc in order to secure the necessary draught.
  Or sometimes perforated bricks are let into the
  walls, which help considerably to ventilate the
  larder.
  
  The door of the larder should fit securely.
  
  Requisites for the Larder. - Strong hooks
  securely fixed in the ceiUng or himg from
  rods of iron running from
  side to side of the larder,
  from wliich to hang meat,
  game, &c. ; a few smaller
  hooks fixed to the shelves
  or walls ; a wiie rack,
  baskets or wooden boxes for
  vegetables; bags of netting
  for lemons ; a bread-pan, a
  large earthenware pan for
  milk with a piece of muslin
  as a covering ; wire covers
  for cold meat, odd cups,
  basins, plates and dishes,
  also a few muslin bags for
  holding meat, hams, &c.,
  and some improvised meat-safes made of muslin
  bags stretched out by wooden hoops.
  
  A refrigerator is an advantage in a larder
  but by no means a necessity, except in lai'ge
  estabUshments or in houses where ices are
  largely used (see Ices).
  
  Temperature. - This should not exceed 50№
  Fahr. in simimer, nor fall below 38№ Fahr. in
  winter.
  
  Cleaning the Larder. - Absolutљ cleanliness must
  be maintained in the larder by daily and
  weekly cleaning.
  
  Daily Cleaning. - ( 1 ) Wipe over the shelves with
  a damp cloth and put food not being used
  immediately for cooking on clean plates and
  dishes.
  
  (2) Wipe over the floor also with a damp
  cloth or with a brush with a damp cloth or swab
  
  
  Vegetable-Kack.
  
  
  100
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  tied over it (sweeping and dusting must never
  be done •while food is in the larder, as it simply
  raises the dust to lot it fall afterwards on the
  food).
  
  (3) Wipe out the bread-pan.
  
  (4) Burn any scraps not quite fresh of fish,
  bones, vegetables, &c.
  
  Weekly Cleaning. - A special day should be
  chosen for tliis : -
  
  ( 1 ) R-emovo all food from the larder.
  
  (2) Sweep and dust walls and floor ; gather
  up dust and burn.
  
  (3) When dust has settled, dust and scrub
  shelves, using cfl,rbolic soap, or if the weather is
  hot some disinfectant may bo added to the
  water, such as carbolic, Jeyes' Fluid, Sanitas, or
  Izol.
  
  (4) Scrub floor with soft soap or carbolic soap
  and water.
  
  (5) Leave door open to dry floor, &c. When
  dry replace the food on clean dishes.
  
  (6) Thoroughly wash out bread-pan and leave
  it to dry and air before returning the bread.
  
  (7) In hot weather place bowls of charcoal or
  disinfectant and water on the shelves.
  
  Occasionally -
  
  (1) WTiitewash or limewash the ceiling about
  every six months.
  
  (2) Scrub wire gauze or perforated zinc of
  windows and doors with disinfectant or carbolic
  soap and water.
  
  (3) Scald and scrub meat-hooks and wire
  meat-covers.
  
  (4) Wash muslin covers when necessary.
  
  (5) Fill up any cracks or mouse-holes with
  cement and place traps when necessary.
  
  Treatment of Various Kinds of Food - Meat,
  Game, and Poultry. - All uncooked meat should
  be hung. If there is a cut side keep this upper-
  most to prevent the juice running out. Examine
  the meat carefully each day and wipe it with a
  cloth to keep it dry. It may also be dusted
  over with a little flour. The marrow should be
  removed from the bone of such joints as a
  sirloin, ribs of beef or loin of mutton, before the
  meat is hung up.
  
  If there is any sign of taint cut off the infected
  part and burn it, then wash the meat with a
  weak solution of Condy's fluid and water, vinegar
  and water, or borax and water. If there is a
  danger of flies attacking the moat, pepper it
  well and hang it up in muslin ; or if there is a
  danger of the meat not keeping, it may bo
  partially cooked.
  
  Frozen meat should be well thawed before
  cooking ; it should be taken from the larder and
  kept in a warm kitchen for an hour or two.
  
  Cooked meat should be lifted out of the gravy
  with which it has been served and put on a dry
  plate covered over with a meat-screen.
  
  If game or poultry has to be kept some time
  it should not be plucked, as the feathers are a
  protection from fliee. Tie a piece of string
  
  
  tightly round the nock to exclude the aii and
  liang it up. A Uttle charcoal may also be put
  inside the vent to help to preserve it. This may
  bo made by putting a piece of wood in the oven
  and letting it remain until it is quite black. It
  should be hung in a current of air and well
  sprinkled with pepper if there is any danger of
  flies. If there is anj' sign of taint the feathers
  should be removed and the bird washed in salt
  and water or vinegar and water. Repeat if
  necessary and then rinse in fresh water.
  
  The length of time game should be kept
  depends partly on the weather and partly on
  individual taste, some people not caring to eat
  it until it smells distinctly high, while others
  prefer to use it comparatively fresh.
  
  To Keep Suet. - If there are any glands or
  kernels to be scon these should be removed, also
  any parts which show discoloration, as these
  very soon become tainted and spoil the rest. If
  the suet has to be kept for several days it is a
  good plan to bury it in flour. If it is put into
  the flour-bin it will not impart any flavour to the
  contents.
  
  Ham and Sides of Bacon. - Hang in muslin
  bags dusted with pepper or ginger to keep off
  the flies. If they are to be kept a long time the
  bags should be made of calico, or strong brown
  paper may be used for wrapping them in.
  
  Lard. - Keep in a closely covered crock or
  basin.
  
  Bones (for stock). - If unable to use at once
  bake sharply in the oven for a few minutes.
  
  Stock and Soup. - See p. 118.
  
  Fish. - Fish should always be placed in the
  coolest part of the larder - on a marble or slate
  slab if possible. It is always better if it can be
  used fresh, but when necessary to keep it for
  a day or two sprinkle liberally with salt, or in
  hot weather it may be wrapped in a piece of
  muslin wrung out of vinegar and water. Dried
  fish should be hung on a rod or hook.
  
  Farm Produce - Butter. - Keep in an earthen-
  ware crock, cover with a piece of muslin wrung
  out of salted water and then with a tight-fitting
  lid. If there is a largo quantity of butter to bo
  stored it should be packed very tightly in the
  crock so as to leave no
  room for air to get down
  the sides. Place the
  crock in a cool, dark,
  and airy place.
  
  To keep fresh butter
  in hot weather a butter-
  cooler should be used;
  this is made with a
  cover into which is
  poured a little water.
  Failing a butter-cooler
  
  place the butter in a bowl standing in a larger
  bowl of cold water. Cover it with a piece of
  muslin, allowing the ends of the muslin to dip
  into the water. The water, which should be
  
  
  Butter-Cooler.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  101
  
  
  changed daily, is soaked up by the musUn and
  thus kept constantly wet.
  
  Butter must not be put near any strong-
  smelling substance as it quickly absorbs any
  flavotir.
  
  Cheese. - A cut piece of cheese should be
  wrapped in grease-proof paper or in damp
  muslin and kept in a cheese dish or jar or tin in
  which there is a little ventilation. A large piece
  of cheese ought to be turned frequently and the
  rind rubbed occasionally with a cloth to prevent
  moisture collecting. A ripe cheese must be
  watched carefully to see that it is not attacked
  by the cheese fly.
  
  Milk and Cream. - Strict cleanHness is the
  first necessity. The jug or basin in which the
  milk is kept must be thoroughly scalded and
  rinsed with cold water. Milk should always be
  kept covered, and, Uke butter, it should not be
  put neao" anything with a strong smell, as it
  readily absorbs" odovu-s. It is a bad plan to mix
  milk - a fresh lot should never be added to some
  that has been in the house several hours. In
  hot weather the milk should be scalded if it has
  to be kept for several hours. Stand the jug
  containing it in a large saucepan of water and
  heat to almost boiHng -point, or tliis may be done
  in a double saucepan. A pinch of carbonate of
  soda or powdered borax may be added to the
  inilk to preserve it, but this spoils the flavovu*.
  The same care must be taken with cream. If
  it is scalded as above it will keep sweet for
  several hours. A lunnp of sugar will also help
  to preserve it.
  
  Eggs should be kept in a basket or on an
  egg-stand where they do not touch each other.
  If there is room for storing, the thrifty house-
  keeper will buy a quantity of eggs in the spring
  and store them for winter use. They can be
  preserved in one of the following methods : -
  
  (1) Place them in an air-tight box between
  layers of coarse salt. Tlie small end of the egg
  should be placed downwards and they must
  never touch each other. Put a layer of salt
  two inches deep on the top, cover with a thick
  piece of caUco or strong paper, and then a tight-
  fitting lid. This must be kept in a cool place.
  
  (2) Grease the eggs (they must be very fresh)
  over with lard, oil, or any pure fat and place them
  on a tray with a layer of bran above and below.
  
  (3) Pack in lime, in the same manner as for
  salt, only this renders them so brittle that they
  are unfit for boiling.
  
  (4) Lay them in a bath of water glass. Water
  glass can be bought for about 4d. per pound, and
  full directions for its use are printed on each tin.
  
  Bread. - Bread should be kept closely covered
  in an earthenware bread-pan with a hd, or in an
  enamelled iron bin. It must never be put away
  while hot, but should be allowed to cool where
  the air can circulate freely round it.
  
  The pan or crock must bo wiped out regixlarly
  in order to free it from all musty crumbs, and
  
  
  once a week or once a fortnight thoroughly
  scalded, and then allowed to become cool and
  dry before the bread is returned to it.
  
  Bread can also be kept well if it is placed in a
  clean cloth and placed on a shelf.
  
  What to do when there is no Larder. - In many
  small houses and flats there is no proper larder,
  and one cupboard has to serve the purpose of
  larder and storeroom and sometimes as a place
  for keeping dishes as well.
  
  When this is the case the quantities ordered
  must be as small as possible and cleanUness and
  order are all the more necessary. If the shelves
  are made of wood it is a good plan to have them
  covered with white oil -cloth, as this can so easily
  be wiped over or washed. In addition to tliis
  cupboard, a meat-safe should be provided and
  placed either outside or in a cool place. Need-
  less to say, it should not be placed anywhere near
  a lavatory. A small meat-safe can occasionally
  be fixed to the outside ledge of the kitchen
  window. If it is out of doors the top must be
  protected from rain by a covering of wood or
  galvanised iron, and it must be scrubbed out
  every week and just as carefully as an inside
  cupboard.
  
  FaiUng a meat-safe, small cane and muslin
  cages should be bought in which meat can be
  hung up in any cool and well-ventilated place.
  They are very inexpensive to buy, or they can
  even be simply constructed at home by making
  a bag of musUn di-awn in at top and bottom.
  Place a plate at the foot and keep out the sides
  with hoopf- of cane lightly tackod in position.
  
  Economy in the Larder. - No housekeeper
  should dispense with a daily visit to the larder.
  A survey of this department will help her in
  ordering the meals of the day besides acting as
  a stimulus to the cook to avoid waste and keep
  things in good order.
  
  The chief points to notice when inspecting the
  larder are : -
  
  (1) What food there is left from the previous
  day's meals, and how best it can be made to re-
  appear at table.
  
  (2) What scraps there are for the stock-pot
  and odds and ends of fat that can be rendered
  down.
  
  (3) The condition of any meat or game that is
  being hung.
  
  (4) The condition of the bread-pan - if there
  are any scraps that will require to be used up.
  
  (5) What new provisions will be required.
  
  (6) That the larder itself is as tidy and fresh
  as it ought to be, and that plates on which food
  rests, as well as any basins and jugs, are all clean.
  
  STORING FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
  
  Vegetables. - When vegetables are only bought
  in small quantities as required thej'^ should be
  kept in baskets or a vegetable rack and stored
  in a cool place - ^the floor of the larder or cellar
  
  
  102
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  is the best. Potatoes alone, carrots and turnips
  together, and green and other special vegetables
  by themselves. Onions, ehalots, chives, and
  garlic are best hung up by strings or in a net bag
  and kept away from other food.
  
  Parsley and niint sliould be kept with the
  Btalks in water, and the water changed every
  day.
  
  Tomatoes should be kept on a plate or spread
  out on a shelf without touching each other.
  
  To Store Vegetables. - Although vegetables
  are at their best when freshly gathered, they can
  wlien necessary be kept for a limited period.
  \\lien potatoes axe bought in large quantities
  and stored through the winter, they should be
  kept in a dry dark cellar and covered with straw
  to keep off the frost. If kept in a bright or
  damp place they will spoil and become milled
  and withered. Rub off all sprouts and shoots
  as they appear. Examine frequently and re-
  move any that show signs of decay. In the
  country potatoes are sometimes stored in a deep
  liole in the ground lined with straw and banked
  up with sand.
  
  Artichokes caii be treated in the same way.
  Carrots, Beetroots, and Parsnips may be pre-
  served in dry sand or earth in a dark cellar.
  
  Turnips should be allowed to lie on the floor
  of a dark cellar.
  
  Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers will keep for
  some time if they are hung up by the stalk in a
  cool situation.
  
  Small Cabbages too, if they are sound and
  firm and cut before the frost touches them, can
  be preserved for a few weeks if they are spread
  on a stone floor in the dark.
  
  Herbs. - If these can be bought fresh in the
  summer time it is best to dry them quickly
  beside the kitchen fire. Then strip off the
  leaves and rub them through a fine sieve. The
  different kinds should be kept separate and
  stored in air-tight boxes or bottles.
  
  Fruit. - If only bought in small quantities,
  such fruit as apples, pears, plums, apricots, and
  oranges should be wiped
  and spread out on a tray,
  on the shelves of the store-
  room or larder, or on a
  special fruit -stand.
  
  Bananas and grapes
  should be hung. Softer
  fruits, such as currants
  and berries, should only
  bo bought as required and
  then used at once.
  
  Lemons should bo wiped
  dry and hung up in nets,
  or if laid on a shelf they
  should be turned every
  day.
  
  All fruit should be kept in a cool place and
  out of the sun, unless it is a kind which requires
  further ripening.
  
  
  Frnlt-Stand.
  
  
  When Apples have to be stored in large
  quantities for winter use, they should be dry,
  sound, and not too ripe. They should be spread
  out on slielvos in a fruit-room or an attic that
  does not admit too much sunshine. They should
  not be allowed to touch each other and any
  decaying ones should be instantly removed.
  Rough-skinned apples, such aa russets, keep
  best.
  
  Pears, if not ripe, may bo kept in the same
  way or hung up by the stalks.
  
  THE STORE-ROOM OR STORE-CLOSET
  
  If a small room can be set aside for the storage
  of groceries and other household commodities
  it will be a great convenience to the careful
  housewife, and if she has some knowledge as to
  the stocking and general management of that
  store-room she will feel a sense of pride in keeping
  it well plenished and in good order.
  
  A store-room should be dry and airy, tidy and
  weU arranged. A room with a northern or
  eastern aspect is the best. It should be as near
  the kitchen as possible in order to avoid un-
  necessary carrying, end not in the vicinity of
  a sink or closet.
  
  If a small room is not available a good-sized
  cupboard can serve the purpose, and goods, &c.,
  must be bought according to the acoommodation
  for keeping them and individual requirements.
  
  Fittings and Arrangements. - The store-room
  should have its walls and ceiling white-washed
  or coated with sanitary paint, which can be
  easily washed. The walls and floor should be
  examined for any cracks, and if there are such
  they shoiild be carefully filled up with cement
  to prevent the entrance of mice, beetles, and other
  vermin. Tlie floor should be well boarded and
  either left uncovered or covered with linoleum.
  
  If there is an outside window it should be
  covered with wire geuze or fine perforated zinc
  through which no flies can enter.
  
  The walls should befitted with plenty of shelves,
  and if these can be graduated in size it will be
  found an advantage ; broader shelves below to
  hold the bulkier and heavier articles, and narrower
  ones above for those that are lighter. It is a bad
  plan to have the shelves so wide that the jars
  and other receptacles have to bo placed one be-
  hind the other ; it will be a case of " out of siglit
  out of mind," and it will bo impossible to see
  at a glance what the store-room contains. The
  shelves should be covered with white or brown
  oilcloth, which is easily wiped down or washed.
  This can be fastened in position with drawing-
  pins if there is difficulty in making it lie flat.
  
  If space permits it will be found a great con-
  venience to have a small inner cupboard with
  one or two drawers, also a strong steady table
  with a pair of scales or balance.
  
  A few hooks along the edges of the shelves
  will also bo useful for hanging such articles aa
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  103
  
  
  can be suspended, and they sometimes lielp to
  eke out an otherwise Hmited space.
  
  Requisites. - Besides the stores and pro-
  visions it will be found useful to liave the
  following articles in the store-room : -
  
  (1) A dust-pan and brush and one or two
  dusters for keeping the shelves, floor, &c., in
  order.
  
  (2) A supply of paper, brown and white,
  string, pen and ink, and some labels or adhesive
  papers. A drawer in the table or cupboard
  might be utilised for these or a special corner
  of the shelves.
  
  (3) Jars, canisters, boxes, and bottles for
  keeping the various stores. Any odd jars and
  
  boxes, &c., can be used for the
  piirpose as long as they are sound
  and have tight-fitting lids or
  saucers to cover the tops very
  closely. Empty biscuit-boxes, jam
  or pickle jars, can be utilised for
  the purpose. For those who can
  afford something daintier there are
  many kinds of store jars to be
  bought both in earthenware and
  enamelled tin with the names of
  the various groceries, &c., printed on the outside,
  from about Is. each according to size. Glass jars
  with lids are also nice for groceries that are bought
  in small quantities, such as almonds, preserved
  fruits, cocoanut, chocolate, &c., and neat tin
  boxes or a small chest for keeping the various
  spices. Receptacles that have no printed name
  must be neatly labelled to show the natiure of the
  contents.
  
  (4) A slate and pencil for noting down what
  stores require replenishing should be hung in a
  convenient place in the store-room, or a store
  
  
  Store Jar.
  
  
  ^
  
  rrf
  
  > ,
  
  M\
  
  =:
  
  P;
  
  =i
  
  ^i
  
  ^
  
  if
  
  g8"8
  
  V
  
  ; ""
  
  " ^ '
  
  s
  
  store Indicator.
  
  indicator may be piirchased for about 3s. This
  useful little remembrancer gives a printed list
  of the different stores on a neat frame, and a
  system of pegs and holes indicates what is
  required.
  
  (5) A few implements will also be required -
  a pair of scissors, a cork-screw, a knife, a tin-
  opener, two or three spoons of different sizes,
  a few scoops, and a cheese and soap-cutter.
  
  (0) It will also be found useful to keep a small
  tool-box in the store-room containing a hammer.
  
  
  s&w, gimlet, screw-driver, a pair of pincers,
  chisel, and a tiseful supply of nails, hooks, and
  tacks.
  
  Grouping the Stores. - ^In arranging the store-
  room the various articles must be grouped
  methodically according to their kind and in
  such a way that they can be easily found. Keep
  a special shelf or corner for cereals, another for
  the different kinds of sugar, another for jams
  and preserves, another for bottled goods, and
  so on.
  
  If there is a small cupboard this might be
  reserved for a medicine cupboard, or for special
  articles or poisons, which are better kept under
  lock and key. There should also be a special
  corner for wine if there is no separate wine
  cellar, and a special corner for cleaning requisites.
  
  Then if there are drawers these might be used
  for kitchen paper, dishpapers, cutlet frills,&c.,and
  another one for an extra supply of dusters, dish
  cloths, floor cloths, &c., while the nails and hooks
  can be utilised for such articles as can be hung.
  
  Articles such as tea and coffee, cheese and soap,
  must not be placed near each other, as the smeU
  and flavour may be imparted from one to the
  other. Nothing must be kept in paper parcels,
  and every jar, canister, box, &c., must be
  clearly labelled on the outside. The heavier
  jars should be placed on the bottom shelf or
  on the floor, if dry, and those in constant use
  readiest to hand.
  
  Cleaning the Store-room. - The store-room must
  be kept very tidy. The jars ought to be taken
  down periodically and thoroughly dusted, and
  the shelves dusted and washed over before they
  are retiirned. When necessary, the jars should
  be washed out and well dried before being
  refilled. The table and floor shoTild also be
  scrubbed when they require it, and everything
  kept in good order. If the stores are dropped
  about in an untidy manner it will only encourage
  mice and insects. It is important also that the
  store-room should be well aired.
  
  Giving out Stores. - Stores should be given out
  regularly, either daily or weekly and at a fixed
  date. They should be checked when they come
  in, and the consumption should be strictly
  regulated, or the method of bujdng in quantities
  will be found an extravagant one.
  
  There are two ways of checking consumption :
  one method is to keep all stores and pro\asions
  under lock and key and to give them out by
  weight and measure. Tliis method is exact, but
  it does not always answer ; it is more suitable
  for a public institution or for a large establish-
  ment than for a small private house. It is often
  a cause of worry and annoyance, and is apt to
  cause friction between mistress and servants.
  As a rule, good servants will work most willingly
  in houses where they are trusted, and if we
  begin by calculating measure for measure with
  them they will doubtless do the same with us.
  Servants who are inclined to be wasteful will
  
  
  104
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  waste by ounces just as easily as they can by
  pounds.
  
  Still, it is not wise to have large quantities
  out at one time for general use. Smaller jars
  can be filled with the different stores for daily
  consumption wthout actually doling them out
  by the ounce and half ounce and so much
  for each person. Some things, such as butter,
  tea, and sugar, it is very usual to measure out
  for kitchen use, and where there are several
  servants this is a wise plan and is thought
  nothing of (see p. 45).
  
  Another way of checking consumption is by
  means of the weekly bills. Each housekeeper
  must draw up her o\vn estimate as to how much
  should be spent upon certain things and then
  make an effort to keep within its limit (see
  p. 365).
  
  GENERAL NOTES ON STORING
  
  Tea and Coffee should be kept in air-tight
  canisters or in a lead-lined chest.
  
  Dry Groceries. - Keep in covered earthenware
  Jars.
  
  Starch. - Keep in a cool place and well covered,
  as air turns it powdery.
  
  Soda and Salt. - Keep in a wooden or tin box
  with a lid. Damp is bad for them; it forms
  them into blocks.
  
  Spices. - Keep in air-tight tins or in a spice
  chest.
  
  Flour. - Keep in a wooden or enamelled bin.
  Sometimes the bin is divided, and one portion
  can be used for household flour
  and the other for Vienna flour.
  If the floor is of stone or damp the
  bin must be raised.
  
  Jams, Pickles, Bottled Fruits, &c.
  must be kept in a cool place as
  they are liable to ferment. If the
  store-room is hot they should bo
  placed noar the floor.
  
  Soap. - Cut in blocks with an
  old knife or soap - cutter and
  stack up with a space between each block.
  
  Candles. - If store-room is warm rub with
  methylated spirits to harden them.
  
  Biscuits and Cakes. - Keep in tin boxes with
  tight-fitting lid.
  
  CARE OF WINES
  
  Wines require a great deal of attention, and
  their preservation in a state fit to drink largely
  depends upon the treatment they receive. Any
  carelessness or neglect is sure to bo followed by
  deterioration in quality, and the loss of those
  properties which can only arrive at perfection if
  the maturing process is allowed to proceed under
  conditions which are favourable to their growth
  and development.
  
  The Wine Cellar. - The collar should bo under-
  
  
  Enamelled Bin.
  
  
  ground if possible, as it will then Ije less affected
  by variations in temperature. It should be
  cool, dry, and well ventilated without any
  strong draughts. Tho walls are generally made
  of brick or stone and white-washed, and the
  shelves or bins of wood or iron.
  
  Ceire should be taken to see that the di'ainage
  is good and that no foul air enters. The windows
  or holes to admit light should be small, as any
  sunshine would rai.se the temperature which
  ought to be kept uniform. The thermometer
  should stand about 65№ Fahr. and there should
  be no variations. If at any time it is necessary
  to raise the temperature artificially, gas must
  on no account be employed, as the vitiation of
  the air which results is injiu-ious to the wine -
  an oU lamp or small oil stove is better.
  
  Apart from any artificial heating there will
  always be a slight difference in the degree of
  warmth between the top bins and the lower
  ones, owing to the tendency of warm air to rise,
  and in consequence of this care must be taken
  to arrange the different varieties of wines in
  separate parts of the cellar according to their
  indi\'idual requirements as regards heat.
  
  Binning Wines. - Bins are the open divisions
  in the cellar in which the wine is placed. They
  may either be fixtures in
  the cellar or may be
  bought separately and
  placed on the floor ; if
  the latter is done, care
  must be taken that the
  bin stands steadily or the
  wine will be disturbed.
  
  In arranging the wines
  it must be remembered
  that all wines cannot be
  treated alike.
  
  As a rule, it is best to
  bin the light varieties such
  as Hock, Moselle, and all
  sparkling varieties at the bottom. Clarets and
  Burgundies in tho middle, and Sherry and Port
  and other fortified wines at the top.
  
  The bottles must be placed in the bins Iiori-
  zontallj', as the wine would soon deteriorate
  were they allowed to stand upright. When
  binning port tho bottles should be so placed
  that tho chalk or white paint-mark is uppermost
  on account of the sediment.
  
  Tlie corks of wine bottles should be examined
  for signs of decay, because if once they become
  faulty and the air can penetrate the wine will
  be spoilt.
  
  Wine should bo consumed as soon as possible
  after the bottle has been opened. The lighter
  wines are hardly fit to di-ink if they are kept for
  even two or three days after being decanted,
  although the fortified wines, such as sherry
  and port, will last rather longer. (See also Service
  of Wines, p. 248.)
  
  Ale, Stout, and Cider. - ^These beverages require
  
  
  Wine Biu.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN"
  
  
  105
  
  
  a temperatui-e of about 50№ Fahr. Tlie bottles
  should be allowed to stand upright a few days
  before use. Stout should not be kept in the
  house too long, as it is liable to generate too
  much gas. If beer is kept in a cask, a stand
  should be provided in order to raise it about
  a foot from the ground. A cask should be so
  placed that there is a space all round it to
  enable of its being examined from time to
  time. It must also be perfectly steady and
  wedges of wood used, if necessary, to keep it from
  shaking.
  
  Spirits (Whisky, brandy, rum, and gin). -
  Spirits are best stood upright, and when in
  bottles require very little attention.
  
  Australian Wines. - These wines are easily
  handled, being sold in flagons with screw stoppers.
  Care should be taken to keep the stoppers
  screwed up very tightly, because if the air is
  allowed to get to the wine it is liable to turn
  it acid.
  
  When no Wine Cellar is Available. - ^If there
  is no wine cellar in wliicli. to keep a supply,
  wine must be bought in smaller quantities and
  just enough for immediate reqtiirements. A
  corner of the store cupboard or some down-
  stairs cellar can sometimes be utilised for
  
  
  Wine Cabinet.
  
  keeping a moderate supply of bottles, and for
  convenience sake a small bin might be fitted up.
  Or a wine cabinet is sometimes found useful,
  especially in flats and small houses. They are
  fitted with a strong lock and key, and one
  to hold four dozen bottles can be bought for
  about 30s.
  
  MARKETING
  
  General Hints. - It requires a considerable
  amount of forethought and common-sense to
  do really good marketing, to buy just what is
  necessary for the needs of the household, to
  secure cho best value for one's money, and to
  be economical in the true sense of the word
  \sithout being parsimonious.
  
  Whether we have much money or little at
  our disposal it always requires some care to lay
  it out to the best advantage, and the less there
  
  
  is the more necessity there will be to make the
  most of it.
  
  Money is often wasted and time lost by the
  hoiisekeeper not knowing how to choose and
  order food. It requires some experience to do
  it well, but with common-sense and good will
  the art of marketing is easily acquired.
  
  Each purchase should be thoughtfully con-
  sidered, and when means are scarce money must
  not be frittered away on any trifle which may
  strike the fancy and has no real value.
  
  It is always best to deal with good reliable
  shops and not to be continually hunting after the
  cheapest market. Try, if possible, to patronise
  the shops in yoiu- immediate neighbourhood,
  and preferably those in which there is a big
  turnover, where articles are being constantly
  sold out and renewed. Avoid shops where the
  goods are not kept in an orderly and cleanly
  condition, or where they are exposed to the
  dust and dirt of the street, or to be touched and
  handled by every passer-by.
  
  However small the income may be, it will
  never be found economical to buy goods of
  inferior quahty in order to save a few pence.
  Aim rather at secvu-ing good material of its kind
  and at avoiding luxuries, except as an occasional
  treat when they can be afforded.
  
  In order to ascertain whether or not you are
  being charged a fair price for your provisions,
  try to obtain a price list from two or three good
  shops and then compare them.
  
  It is the duty of every mistress to see that her
  merchandise is good ; there is no virtue in
  allowing short weight and inferior quality nor
  in permitting oneself to be imposed upon in any
  way. One only gets thљ best attention by ex-
  pecting and demanding it.
  
  Previous to making out her order the mistress
  should go tlirough the larder and store-room and
  make a note of what is requii-ed, always bearing
  in mind the bill of fare for the day. Sometimes
  it is possible to order for two days at a time or
  to order always one day ahead to ensiu-e having
  the provisions in the house in good time in the
  morning. This is often necessary in houses
  where a very early dinner has to be provided for,
  and it enables tlie cook, or whoever undertakes
  the cooking, time to start her preparations
  directly the breakfast tilings are cleared away.
  
  Whenever possible, the mistress of the house
  or housekeeper should do her own shopping,
  not necessarily every day, but certainly occasion-
  ally. In this way the tradesmen get a better
  idea of her likes and dislikes and can generally
  serve her better. Variety will be suggested
  by what she sees in the shops, and a knowledge
  of what things are in season is more quickly
  obtained. With meat especially she will get a
  bettor joint or more suitable piece of meat for
  her purpose if she sees it cut and weighed tlian
  if she simply L^ft it to the butcher's discretion.
  At the fishmonger's, too, a personal visit is a wise
  
  
  106
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  plan, as tlio price of fish varies so much, and even
  from day to day according to tlie weather and
  other circumstances. The more plentiful kind
  will always be the cheapest for the time being,
  and it will generally bo found that it is the best
  as well.
  
  Shopping should be done as etu-Iy as possible,
  as there is generally a better selection in the
  forenoon and provisions are fresher.
  
  If this personal shopping cannot be managed
  by the mistress of the household and there is no
  responsible person to whom the business may be
  deputed, a duplicate order book should be used.
  A sepfirate list for each tradesman should be
  written out in duplicate form, giving exact
  quantities requirec^ and price if possible. The
  tradesmen can then send for their orders, one
  list being given to them and the other retained
  for reference and for the purpose of chocking
  the house books. This is a safer method than
  that of giving haphazard verbal orders to
  message boys.
  
  Small vouchers or weight bills should accom-
  pany all goods sent from the shops, and these
  should be used for checking the various items.
  (For Payment of Bills, House Books, &c., see
  pp. 365-66.)
  
  GENERAL NOTES ON ORDERING GROCERIES
  AND PROVISIONS
  
  When ordering stores there are several points
  to be considered besides the ordering of what
  is actually requii'ed. We must consider in
  addition what will keep well, what space there
  is for storing it, what we can afford, and whether
  or not it is the best season for a large purcheise.
  
  The slate or indicator will help us as regards
  what is wanted, as when each article is finished
  or nearly so the fact ought to be noted and then
  that article included in the next order.
  
  It must be remembered that articles bought
  in small quantities are often dearer in proportion
  than when purchased in large quantities ; not
  only is the price per pound less, but the weight
  of paper and paper -bags is saved.
  
  Good-keeping things should always be bought
  in large quantities where the purse is not very
  straitened and where space is not a consideration.
  
  As there is generally a cheap and a dear
  season an attempt should be made to benefit by
  the former by buying in as large a store as
  possible of any special commodity that will keep
  well and for which there is likely to be use.
  
  All things having a strong taste or smell, such
  as spices, essences, coffee (when ground), &c.,
  should be bought in small quantities, as they are
  apt to deteriorate.
  
  .Ul Grains and Cereals, Soda and Salt, may bo
  bought in moderate supplies according to the
  needs of the household.
  
  Sugar may also be bought in considerable
  quantities, although moist sugar must bo
  
  
  watched, as it sometimes becomes infected with
  sugar mite. Cano sugar is the best for all
  preserving purposes ; jams made with it will
  keep longer and have a better coloiu- than if
  beetroot sugar were used. Beetroot sugar is,
  however, quite good for other sweetening
  purposes.
  
  Tea should be bought in moderate quantities.
  It should be well twisted and the leaves not too
  small. Tlie special blend to use is entirely a
  matter of taste.
  
  Dried Fruits will also keep well and should be
  bought in the autumn when the new fruit comes
  in. Figs, however, must be carefully looked
  over, as they often become infected with small
  maggots.
  
  Soap improves with keeping and may safely
  be ordered in large quantities. The drier it is
  the less it will waste when used. There ai-e
  many different kinds - ^plain yellow soap, mottled
  soap, paraffin soap. Sunlight soap, and carbolic
  soap are all useful for household purposes ; also
  the soft soap, which should be bought in large
  tins and given out as required.
  
  Candles will also improve with keeping.
  
  Tinned Foods. - Choose tins that are in perfect
  condition and free from rust. There should be
  no bulges, which are a sign of fermentation ; the
  tops and bottoms should be rather concave.
  Foods preserved in earthenware or glass jars are
  better and safer than tinned ones, but they
  generally cost more money.
  
  Cheese and Butter must always be chosen by
  the taste. Cheap butter should be avoided - it
  is better to use good dripping or lard for cooking
  purposes than inferior butter.
  
  The choice of cheese is entirely a question of
  taste. For a moderately priced cheese some of
  the American cheeses similar to our Cheddar
  cheeses are to be recommended, also the round
  Dutch cheeses. In choosing such cheeses as
  Stilton, Grorgonzola, and Roquefort, select one
  that combines moisture with green mould.
  Cream cheeses must always be bought very
  fresh and used at once.
  
  Eggs if fresh are clear when held up to the light ;
  if stale there is a dark spot or cloudy-looking
  part. They may be tested by putting tnem in
  salt and water - 1 ounce salt to 1 pint water ;
  eggs that float in this are not good. They
  should not be too light, and when shaken the
  inside should not float about. When eggs are
  cheap it is sometimes a good plan to buy in
  large quantity and store them for the winter.
  (See p. 101.)
  
  Ham. - Choose a short thick leg with a
  moderate amount of fat. The rind should be
  rather thin and the bone fine. Tlie quality
  may be tested by running a pointed knife or
  skewer in close to the bone ; when withdrawn it
  should not bo greasy nor have an unpleasant
  smell, but, on the contrary, be clean and have a
  good flavour. Hams vary in price according to
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  107
  
  
  the manner of curing and special reputation. In
  England the Yorkshire and Cumberland hams
  are generally considered the finest and still
  command a good price, although some of the
  southern cotmties produce hams by no means
  inferior. In Scotland, the Dumfries and Gallo-
  way hams rank among the best, and Irish hams
  from Belfast are much prized. Canadian and
  Danish hams are also in the market in large
  quantities, and although the flavour is not con-
  sidered so delicate as that of the home-cured
  variety, their moderate price recommends them
  to those who have to study economy.
  
  Bacon must be fresh and free from rustiness.
  The fat should be very white ; the lean should
  adlaere closely to the bone and be of a nice red
  colour, and there should be as little gristle as
  possible.
  
  The following diagram mil give a general idea
  of the way in which a side of bacon is usually
  cut in England ; there wiU of coiirse be sub-
  divisions to make smaller pieces. What is
  known as " streaky " bacon and the flank are
  considered the finest, but, being much in demand,
  they fetch a high price. The back and loin are
  also prime pieces, while the fore-end and gammon,
  although not so fine in texture, do excellently
  for boiled bacon.
  
  
  Side of Bacon.
  
  
  1. Collar.
  
  2. Back.
  
  3. Loin.
  
  4. Corner.
  
  
  5. Gammon.
  
  6. Flank.
  
  7. Streaky.
  
  8. Fore-end.
  
  
  HOW TO CHOOSE MEAT
  
  General Hints. - It is very important to buy
  meat from a good butcher, and one who can be
  thoroughly trxisted.
  
  There are certain signs by wliich the quahty
  of the meat can generally be judged. The
  texture should be firm and moderately elastic,
  and, when pressed, should not leave the imprint
  of the finger. If the flesh is flabby and moist
  and has an unpleasant odour it is not good.
  
  The lean part should be finely grained, and the
  fat, wluch should not be in any undue propor-
  tion, should be free from kernels, brown spots,
  and streaks of blood.
  
  The meat of most animals that have died a
  natural death or by accident should be avoided.
  
  Good meat does not waste much in cooking,
  and when left on a dish the juice should not
  exude from it in any quantity.
  
  
  Besides these general points to be remembered
  each special kind of meat has its indivndual
  character by wliich it can be judged.
  
  Beef. - The best kind of beef is of a nice red
  colour, almost a cherry red, and the lean has a
  marble appearance, being slightly intergrained
  with fat. The fat is a pale yeUow colour, not
  mottled, and the suet hard and dry. It is fine
  and smooth in textiu-e, with rather an open
  grain. There should be little or no gristle
  between the fat and the lean, as this generally
  indicates that it is the flesh of an old animal.
  Beef of a dark colour with very yellow fat should
  be avoided.
  
  Beef is more nourishing and strengthening
  than mutton, but not so easy of digestion. Ox
  beef is better than cow beef and generally
  fetches a higher price. Bull beef is very coEirse,
  and is never sold by a good butcher.
  
  Beef should be well hung before it is used
  to make it tender ; the time it should hang wUl
  depend upon the weather, and it must never be
  allowed to become high.
  
  Mutton. - The best mutton is pltimp and
  small-boned. The quality depends very much
  upon where the animal has been reared, and also
  upon the age at which it is killed ; the mountain-
  fed sheep are considered the best, and from four
  to six years old is the best age for killing, only a
  farmer can rarely afford to keep his sheep so
  long, and they are generally killed between two
  and three years of age.
  
  The lean of mutton is not so red in colour as
  beef, but has a darker and browner hue. It
  should be firm, close in textiire, and not inter-
  grained with fat. The fat should be hard and
  very white and waxy. Mutton, like beef, should
  be well hung.
  
  Lamb is paler in colour than mutton, and
  the fat is pearly white. When fresh, the veins
  in the neck end of the fore-quarter have a
  bluish tinge, and when stale these develop a
  greenish hue. In the hind-quarter the kidneys
  should be examined ; if they are flabby with an
  unpleasant smell the meat is stale.
  
  A piece of the caul, a thin transparent-looking
  membrane, should be sent with each joint of
  lamb to wrap round it and protect it when
  cooking.
  
  The New Zealand or Canterbury Iamb is much
  cheaper than the home grown, but as far as
  taste is concerned it is more like mutton, as
  it seems to lose its characteristic flavour during
  the process of freezing.
  
  The flesh of lamb is tenderer than that of
  mutton, but it is more watery and not so nutri-
  tious. Lamb cannot be hung for very long.
  
  Pork. - Pork requires very careful choosing
  as it is more subject to diseeise than perhaps
  any other animal food, and unless one is sure
  of its source it is safer to leave it alone. The
  flesh should be of a pinky white colour, smooth,
  finely grained, and firm to the toucli. The skin
  
  
  108
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  must not be too thick. Tlie fat sliould be
  pearly white with no black specks nor kernels.
  Small pork is the best. It is much more difficult
  to digest than either beef or mutton, as it con-
  tains such a large proportion of fat.
  
  Veal is the flesh of the calf. It should bo
  very pale in colour, firm, and closely grained.
  The fat should be white, and if that which sur-
  rounds the kidney is hard and without smell
  the meat is in good condition. Veal is not so
  nutritious as beef and it is more difficult of
  digestion. Like all other young moats, it should
  not l:>e hung verj' long.
  
  Venison is the flesh of deer. Tlie lean should
  be finely grained and dark in colour. The fat
  should bo plentiful and of a creamy white
  appearance.
  
  The age can be judged by the hoof ; in the
  young animal the cleft is small and smooth,
  while in the older one it has become much
  deeper and more rugged.
  
  Venison should be hung as long as possible,
  but it must be frequently examined. Its fresh-
  ness can be tested by running a knife or skewer
  into the bone at the haunch ; if when withdrawn
  it smoUs well and is not sticky this is a sure
  sign of good condition.
  
  The flesh of the buck is considered superior to
  that of the doe.
  
  Suet. - This must be very fresh and of good
  quaUty. The solid fat, which surrounds the
  kidney, either beef or mutton, is considered the
  best. Beef suet should be cream coloured or
  pale yellow and mutton suet very white and
  waxy. Both should be very firm and dry.
  
  Internal Meats. - All inside meats such as
  tripe, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, &c., must be
  bought very fresh and used at once.
  
  CALENDAR OF MEAT IN SEASON
  
  Beef, Mutton, and Veal are in season all the
  year round.
  
  Lamb. - House lamb from January to May,
  grass lamb from May to September, and New
  Zealand lamb all the year round.
  
  Pork. - All the year round, but best from
  September to May.
  
  Venison. - Buck venison from May to October,
  doe venison from October to end of January.
  
  DIFFERENT JOINTS OF MEAT AND
  THEIR USES
  
  The cutting up of meat varies somewhat
  according to locality and also according to the
  special demands of the people with whom the
  butchers have to deal.
  
  The following diagrams will give an idea of
  how the different animals are cut up by English
  butchers, and m.ay also be of assistance to the
  housewife in knowing what pioco to order for
  the special purpose she has in view.
  
  
  BEEF
  
  
  f^
  
  
  Diagram showing niofle of cutting up Beef
  in England.
  
  
  ].
  
  Sirloin.
  
  :o.
  
  Fore Ribs.
  
  2.
  
  Rump.
  
  11.
  
  Middle Ribs.
  
  3.
  
  Aitchbone.
  
  12.
  
  Chuck Ribs.
  
  4.
  
  Buttock.
  
  13.
  
  Leg of Mutton Piec
  
  5.
  
  Mouse Buttock.
  
  14.
  
  Brisket.
  
  6.
  
  Veiny parts.
  
  15.
  
  Clod.
  
  7.
  
  Thick Flank.
  
  16.
  
  Keck.
  
  8.
  
  Thin Flank.
  
  17.
  
  Shin.
  
  9.
  
  Shin.
  
  18.
  
  Cheek.
  
  The Sirloin. - This is the best part for roasting,
  but it is somewhat expensive. It is usually
  divided into three pieces varying in weight
  according to the size of the animal. The middle
  cut is considered the best, as it has the largest
  amovmt of undercut. The piece next the ribs
  has very little undercut, and the one next the
  rump is a joint difficult to carve, as it has a piece
  of bone on one side.
  
  The sirloins from both sides of the animal
  not cut asunder form what is called the baron of
  beef, corresponding to the saddle in mutton.
  This is a joint rarely seen nowadays, but was
  famous at banquets in the days of our ancestors.
  
  The fillet or undercut of tlie sirloin is the most
  tender part for entries or fillets of beef.
  
  Ribs. - The cuts from the ribs are also good
  for roasting, those nearest the sirloin being
  the best. Various sizes of joints can be cut
  according to special requirements. It is more
  economical to have the bone removed and used
  for soup and the meat itself rolled. One or
  two ribs treated in this way make a neat little
  roast for a small family. \Vhen a large cut of
  the ribs is ordered and roasted whole, it is better
  to havo the thin end cut off and used for a
  separate dish, otherwise it becomes overcooked
  before the thicker part is ready. The piece of
  ribs next the shoulder is better stewed or braised
  than roasted.
  
  The Rump. - ^This is divided into three parts
  - the middle, the silver-side, and the chump end.
  The middle is an excellent piece of fleshy meat
  for any purpose. Some of the best steaks are
  cut from tliis part ; it is also a first-rato cut for
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  109
  
  
  pies, for rolled beef, or for a tender stew. The
  chump end is also good for stewing. Tho silver-
  side is very often salted and is good for boiling.
  
  Buttock or Round. - This is another very fleshy
  piece of meat vath little bone. It is one of
  the best pieces for braising or boiling, and
  is often salted. It can also be roasted, but,
  although economical, it is not so fine in flavour
  as the ribs or sirloin.
  
  Aitch Bone, or Edge Bone. - This is a cheap
  piece of meat, but as it contains a large propor-
  tion of bone and wastes very much in cooking
  it is not really economical. It is an awkwardly
  shaped joint and very difficult to carve. It is
  generally boiled and sometimes salted.
  
  Brisket. - This is also sold at a low price,
  and is used principally for boiling or stewing.
  It is rather fat, but is excellent when salted and
  boiled and then served cold.
  
  Flank. - The thick flank is one of the most
  economical parts to buy, as it contains no bone
  and verj^ little fat. Suitable for braising, stew-
  ing, and boiling. The thin flank contains much
  more fat, and is best salted, boiled, and eaten
  cold.
  
  The Clod and Sticking Piece are both some-
  what coarse and only suitable for soup or cheap
  stews.
  
  Shin. - This is also coarse grained and very
  gelatinous. It is excellent for stock and soup.
  The top part will also make an economical stew
  if slowly and carefully cooked.
  
  Cheek. - Only suitable for stews and for
  making soup. As it contains so much bone it
  is not really economical.
  
  Cow Heel is very gelatinous, and is iised
  principally for making jelly, or, along with
  iTieat, as a foundation for soups. It can also be
  carefully boiled or stewed and then eaten with a
  good and piquant sauce.
  
  Tail. - This is somewhat expensive. It is
  used for making soups, and can also be stewed
  or braised.
  
  Heart. - This is rather coarse and very in-
  digestible, but it can be made palatable by
  being stuffed and very carefully roasted or
  braised.
  
  Tongue is usually salted and then boiled
  and served cold, or served hot with a good
  sauce, or cut in sUces for an entr^.
  
  Tripe. - The inner lining of the stomach.
  It is usually sold partially prepared, although in
  Scotland it requires many hours' boiling. It is
  very tender and easily digested, and for this
  reason is frequently ordered for invalids.
  
  There are several different kinds of tripe
  popularly known as " honeycomb," " blanket,"
  " double " or " book " (because it is like the
  leaves of a book), and " reed " the dark -coloured
  portion.
  
  Liver. - This is a cheap piece, and is nutritious
  for those who can digest it. It requires careful
  cooking.
  
  
  Kidneys.^Used for making soup. Can also be
  stewed, although rather indigestible.
  
  Midriff. - A thin fleshy piece which runs across
  the middle of the animal. It is rich in flavour
  and is very good for stews or beef-steak pudding.
  
  Sweetbread. - In the ox tliis part is coarse, and
  can only be made palatable by careful cooking.
  
  
  VEAL
  
  
  Mode of cuttlnc up a Calf.
  
  
  1. Loin.
  
  2. Chump end of Loin.
  
  3. Fillet.
  
  4. Hind-knuckle.
  
  5. Fore-knuckle.
  
  6. Neck (best end).
  
  
  7. Shoulder.
  
  8. Blade-bone.
  
  9. Breast.
  
  10. Flank.
  
  11. Head.
  
  
  Veal, which is the flesh of the calf, is cut up
  into the following different joints : -
  
  The Fillet. - One of the finest pieces, very
  fleshy with little or no bone. Can be used for
  any pvu-pose. The best cutlets are cut from
  this part. It is high priced, but not over
  expensive, as there is practically no waste.
  
  The Breast. - If boned, stuffed and rolled,
  this part makes a nice little joint for roasting.
  It can also be braised or stewed. Entrees are
  also prepared from this piece.
  
  The Loin. - One of the best pieces for roasting,
  also for chops.
  
  The Neck. - A good joint for breiising or
  stewing. Can also be roasted. The best end
  may be cut into chops. The scrag-end is more
  suitable for broth.
  
  Knuckle. - This is a favourite part for soup
  or broth and is much used in the making of
  white stock. The fore-knuckle is more tender
  than the hind-knuckle and is often stewed or
  boiled and served with a good sauce.
  
  Head and Feet are sometimes served to-
  gether as a hash, b\it, being rather insipid in
  flavour, they require a good sauce. They can
  also be used for pies, when some ham should be
  added, and for different entr^s. The head is
  iised for soup- Mock Turtle Soup - and the feet
  for maJking jelly - Calf's Foot Jelly.
  
  
  110
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Sweetbread. - This is considered a great
  delicacy, and is generally expensive. It is much
  iised for entrees, and is a favourite dish for
  invalids. The throat Bweotbrcad, which is the
  thymus gland of the calf, is considered inferior
  in quality to the heart sweetbread.
  
  Kidney. - Generally sold along with a piece of
  the loin and roasted. Can also be used separ-
  ately in the same way as sheep's kidneys.
  
  Brains. - A \ory delicate morsel for entr6es.
  
  Liver and Heart. - Can be used in the same way
  as sheep's hver and heart.
  
  MUTTON
  
  The following diagram will give an idea of the
  different joints into which mutton is cut : -
  
  
  Diagram showing mode of cutting up a Sheep.
  
  
  1. Leg.
  
  2. Loin.
  
  3. Chump end of the Loin.
  
  4. Neck (best end).
  
  5. Scrag.
  
  
  6. Shoulder.
  
  7. Breast
  
  8. Head.
  
  9. Shank.
  10. Trotter.
  
  
  The Leg. - This is one of the most economical
  cuts for boiling or roeisting, as it is lean with a
  small amount of bone in proportion to its size.
  It is too large a joint for a small family. It is
  sometimes a good plan to have it cut in two
  pieces and to roast one piece and boil or stew the
  other. \Vlien a piece of the loin is cut along
  with the log it is called the haunch.
  
  The Loin. - This is generally divided into two
  parts, the best end and the chump end, or
  even subdivided into separate cutlets or chops.
  The loin makes one of the finest and most
  delicate roasts, but it is not economical owing to
  the large proportion of fat and bone. If ordering
  for a roast it must be well jointed by the butcher
  or it will be found difficult to carve, or sometimes
  the chine bone, the bone which runs down the
  centre of the back, is sawn nearly off and then
  removed altogether after cooking. The double
  loin from both sides of the animal is called the
  saddle. It is considered a very fine joint, but
  too large for an ordinary household.
  
  
  The Necii. - The best end of the neck is also
  used for cutlets. It is an excellent piece
  for broiling and braising, as it is tender and
  delicate in flavour. The scrag-end, wliich Ues
  nearer the liead, is a cheap piece of an awkward
  shape and contains a good deal of bone. It is
  only suitable for broth or plain stews as it is
  impossible to cut it in neat pieces.
  
  The Shoulder. - This is another good joint for
  roasting, and some people prefer it to the leg.
  It is perhaps more delicate in flavour, but is
  inchnod to be fat. It can aiao be braised or
  boiled.
  
  The Breast. - Is a cheap piece of mutton with
  much fat and skin. If boned, stulTed, and
  rolled it makes quite a nice little roast. It is
  also very suitable for Irish stew where the
  potatoes absorb some of the fat.
  
  The Head and Trotters are generally sold at
  a low price, but they make excellent broth,
  and can also be served as a dish by themselves
  with a good sauce or made into a pie and served
  cold.
  
  The Pluclc. - This consists of the heaxt, liver
  and lungs, which are often sold together. In
  Scotland they form the foundation of haggis.
  The lungs, or lights, are very inferior, and by
  themselves are seldom used, except perhaps as
  cats' meat. The heart is sometimes sold by
  itself, and is very good stuffed and roasted.
  The hver can also be bought separately, and is
  generally fried or sauteed along with a httle
  bacon.
  
  Kidneys. - These are very dainty morsels
  and are a favourite breakfast delicacy. They
  axe generally broiled or stewed, and are also used
  along with beef in pies and stews. The Iwn
  roast often contains one of the kidneys.
  
  LAMB
  
  When lamb is large it is usually cut up and
  used in the same way as mutton, but when small
  it is cut in quarters. The fore-quarter consists
  of the neck, shoulder, and breast, and the hind-
  quarter of the leg and the loin.
  
  If the hind-quarter makes too large a joint the
  upper part may be cut into chops and served as
  one dish, while the lower portion will make a nice
  little roast or may be steamed and served with a
  good sauce. Or a larger -sized piece may be cut
  off the top and made into a stew or braised.
  
  The fore-quarter may be divided in the same
  way, the breast piece being stewed or braised
  and the shoulder roasted. The chops from the
  neck may also be cut off separately and either
  broiled or fried or used for hotch-potch.
  
  Lamb's Head can be used in the same way as
  sheep's head and is more delicate in flavour.
  
  Lamb's Fry, consisting of the liver, sweetbread,
  and heart, is generally cut in slices and fried.
  The sweetbreads alone are considered a great
  delicacy and are much used for entr^s.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  111
  
  
  PORK
  
  
  Diagram showing different cuts of Pork.
  
  1. Spare Kib. 4. Fore-loin.
  
  2. Hand. 5. Loin.
  
  3. Spring or Belly. 6. Leg.
  
  The usual joints of fresh pork are the follow-
  ing :-
  
  The Loin is generally scored and roasted.
  Pork chops are also cut from this part.
  
  Leg. - Another piece for roasting. The skin
  must always be scored by the butcher, or it
  would be impossible to carve the joint. It is
  sometimes salted and then boiled.
  
  The Hand and Spring or Belly. - These parts
  are rather fat, and are usually salted. They
  are best boiled and served cold.
  
  Head. - Usually salted. Can be made into
  brawn or boiled and served cold.
  
  Feet (Pettitoes) can be cooked in various
  ways. Usually boiled or stewed.
  
  The Tongue should be pickled and then served
  in the same way as sheep's tongue.
  
  VENISON
  
  The finest joint for roasting is the Haunch.
  The Loin and Neck are also good roasting pieces.
  
  The Shoulder and Breast are better stewed or
  made into a ragoHt. Chops are usually cut from
  
  the loin or neck and steaks from the leg,
  
  t №
  
  FROZEN MEAT
  
  Large quantities of meat are now imported
  from abroad in a frozen condition and sold
  in this country at a considerably lower price
  than that of home production. New Zealand,
  Australia, the United States, S. America, and
  Canada all send us in supplies.
  
  The prejudice against tlois kind of meat has
  to a large extent disappeared, and it is certainly
  an immense boon to those who cannot afford
  the high prices asked for our home-fed meat.
  
  Needless to say, this foreign meat does not
  equal British meat as far as quality and flavour
  are concerned ; the process of freezing apparently
  takes away from its goodness, but with careful
  thawing and good cooking it compares very
  favourably with the more expensive joints, and
  
  
  in many cases it requires an experienced palate
  to detect the difference.
  
  Mutton and lamb seem to suSer less than beef
  from the process of freezing. That known as
  Canterbury lamb is the best. When ordering
  frozen meat it must be remembered that it will
  not keep in warm weather without a refrigerator.
  
  HOW TO CHOOSE FISH
  
  General Hints. - Fish to be good ought to be
  in season.
  
  Moderately -sized fish are better than very large
  ones, especially those which are thick and plump
  in proportion to their size. A short thick fish is
  always better than one that is long and thin.
  
  There are several signs by which its freshness
  can be judged ; the fish should be firm and stiff,
  and when held up the tail should not droop ; but
  this alone is not sufficient sign, as fish kept on
  ice will retain its rigidity although several days
  old, so we must look for other signs as well.
  
  The gills in fresh fish are a bright red, the eyes
  are bright and not sunken, and the scales also are
  bright and can be easily removed when rubbed.
  
  A flat fish should never be bought without
  looking at both sides, and especially the grey
  side, as this betrays any want of freshness more
  quickly than the white.
  
  A plaice, for instance, can always be judged
  by its spots ; when fresh they are a bright red,
  and after it has been kept some time they take
  a brownish hue.
  
  In choosing cut fish, such as cod, halibut, or
  salmon, &c., the flesh should have a firm appear-
  ance with a close grain; if it looks fibrous and
  watery it is not good.
  
  Never choose fish that is bruised or has the
  skin broken, as it will not keep well.
  
  CALENDAR OF FISH IN SEASON
  
  January. - Barbel, bream, brill, carp, cod,
  dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut,
  hake, herring, hng, mackerel, perch, pike, plaice,
  skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench,
  thornback, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,
  scallops, slirimps.
  
  February. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory, eels,
  flounders, gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring,
  ling, mackerel, mullet, plaice, perch, pike,
  salmon, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon,
  tench, thornback, trout, turbot, whitebait,
  whiting.
  
  Crab, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,
  prawns, scallops, slii-imps.
  
  March. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders,
  gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, ling, mackerel,
  mullet, pike, salmon, skate, smelts, soles, sprats
  (tench until 15th), thornback, trout, tiu-bot,
  whiting, whitebait.
  
  
  112
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,
  pra'wns, scallops, shrimps.
  
  April. - Bream, brill, chub, conger eel, cod,
  dory, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,
  ling, mackerel, mullet, plaice, salmon, shad,
  skate, smelts, soles, sturgeon, turbot, trout,
  whitebait, whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, ojrsters,
  prawns, scallops, shrimps.
  
  May. - Bass, brill, cod, dace, dory, eels,
  gurnet, hake, halibut, herring, ling, mackerel,
  mullet, salmon, shad, skate, smelts, soles,
  sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, scallops,
  shrimps.
  
  Jane. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, cod,
  dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, halibut,
  hake, haddock, herring, lampreys, mackerel,
  mullet, porch (after 15th), pike, plaice, salmon,
  shad, soles, tench, trout, turbot, wliitebait,
  whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.
  
  Joly. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, dace,
  dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, hake,
  halibut, herring, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike,
  plaice, salmon, sea-bream, shad, smelts, soles,
  tench, thornback, trout, turbot, whitebait,
  whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.
  
  August. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, dace,
  dory, eels, flounders, giu-nets, haddock, hake,
  halibut, herring, lamprey, mackerel, mullet,
  plaice, perch, pike, salmon, sea-bream, shad,
  soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.
  
  September. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, cod,
  chub, dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, had-
  dock, hake, halibut, herring, lampreys, mackerel,
  mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon, sea-bream,
  shad, smelts, soles, tench, trout, turbot, white-
  bait, whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, oysters, shrinaps.
  
  October. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory, eels,
  flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,
  mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon,
  sea-bream, skate, soles, smelts, tench, turbot,
  whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,
  scallops, shrimps.
  
  November. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory,
  flounders, eels, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,
  mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon
  (Dutch), skate, smelts, sprats, soles, tench,
  turbot, whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,
  scallops, shrimps.
  
  December. - Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders,
  gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, mackerel,
  mu'let, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch),
  sea-bream, skate, smelt, sprats, soles, tench,
  whiting.
  
  Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,
  scallops, shrimps.
  
  
  ON CHOOSING GAME AND POULTRY
  
  General Rules for Choosing Poultry. - AH
  
  poultry when young should have smooth and
  pliable legs, with the scales overlapping very
  slightly. The spur on the leg must be short and
  not prominent, and the feet should be soft and
  rather moist. If the spur is large and the legs
  hard and dry the bird is no longer young. The
  flesh should be smooth and without long hairs.
  Wlien choosing a bird that has not been plucked
  it should be seen that the plumage is smooth and
  downy with soft young feathers under the wing
  and on the breast. If freshly killed the eyes
  will be clear and not sunken ; there will be no
  discoloration of the flesh and the vent will be
  hard and close.
  
  When poultry is bought quite fresh it may bo
  hung for a few days, but should not be dfaw n
  until about to be used. It must never be over-
  hung, and when it shows the least sign of turning
  green it is unfit for food.
  
  Fowls. - The comb should be smooth and of a
  bright red colour. For roasting choose a fowl
  with black or yellow legs, as they are supposed
  to be more juicy and to possess a better flavour.
  For boiling, choose one with white legs, as the
  flesh will likely be whiter.
  
  A fowl for roasting, frying, or grilling should
  be young and tender, but for boiling, braising,
  or stewing an older one may be taken, as old
  birds are generally cheaper, and long slow
  cooking makes them tender.
  
  Geese and Ducks. - Young birds have yellow
  feet and bills with few bristles ; as they get older
  they become darker and redder, although the
  wild duck has small reddish feet even when
  young. The feet should be white and smooth
  and without wrinkles. A goose must always
  be eaten young ; when over twelve months old
  it is not good for table use.
  
  Pigeons. - A dark-coloured one is thought to
  have the highest flavour, and a light-coloured
  one the most delicate. The legs should be of a
  pinkish colour ; wlien they are largo and deeply
  coloured the bird is old. The tame pig'^on is
  smaller than the wild species and is better for
  cooking. Tame pigeons shou'd be cooked at
  once as they soon lose their flavour, but wood
  pigeons may be hung for a few days.
  
  Turlieys. - A good turkey will be recognised by
  the whiteness of its flesh and its smooth black legs.
  Tlie wattles should be a bright red, the breast
  full and the neck long. Beware of those with
  long hairs and flesh of a violet hue. A moderate-
  sized bird should be chosen. A hen is preferable
  for boiling on account of the whiteness of the
  flesh, and the cock is usually chosen for roasting.
  
  If freshly killed it should be kept for at least
  three or four days before cooking or it will
  neither be white not tender. It should be hung
  up to bleed.
  
  Norfolk turkeys eire considered the best.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  113
  
  
  Game. - It is rather more diflBcult to choose
  game than it is to choose poultry, as the birds are
  usually sold unplucked, but still some of the
  same signs will hold good. The young birds
  are known by their smooth and pUable legs and
  short rounded spurs. The feet should be supple
  aVid moist and easily broken. The feathers
  also help to indicate the age of the bird, as when
  young there are soft and downy ones under the
  wing and on the breast. The plumage of the
  young bird is even and soft, the long feathers
  of the wings are pointed, while in the older bird
  these become round and the colours are usually
  brighter.
  
  The condition of the bird can be judged by
  turning back the feathers of the breast and seeing
  if it feels pkunp and hard ; it should also weigh
  hea%'y for its size.
  
  As regards the time for keeping game, it is
  impossible to lay down any definite rules. To
  begin with it depends very much upon in-
  dividual taste, those who have it seldom as a
  rule Uking it higher than those who are con-
  stantly having it. Then old birds can be hung
  for a longer time than young ones, and again
  the weather must be taken into consideration ;
  close muggy days will not be so good for keeping
  purposes as those which are dry and cold.
  
  Game should be hung unplucked and un-
  drawn and in a current of air if possible. It
  must be remembered that if it is required to
  taste high when cooked, it should smell almost
  offensively so beforehand.
  
  Water birds should always be eaten fresh, as
  their flesh, being of an oily nature, very soon
  becomes sour.
  
  Hares and Rabbits. - When young the claws
  are long and pointed, the cleft in the jaws is
  very narrow, the teeth are small and white, and
  the ears can easily be torn. The small nut
  under the paw should also be well developed.
  When the animal is old the claws become
  roimded and rough, the cleft in the jaw deepens,
  the front teeth are long and yellow, and the ears
  become tough and dry, and the little nut under
  the paw disappears.
  
  Rabbits, like poultry, should be used fresh.
  Choose one that is plump and short-necked, and
  the flesh should be stiff without any discolora-
  tion. Wild rabbits are generally preferred to
  tame ones, as they are considered to have a better
  flavour. The flesh of the tame rabbit is wliite
  and more delicate. A rabbit should be paunched
  before it is hung up.
  
  Hares, on the contrary, require to be well hung
  - at least a week - and should not be paunched
  until about to be used.
  
  CALENDAR OF POULTRY AND GAME IN
  SEASON
  
  The following will be found useful for ready
  reference : -
  
  
  January. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens,
  ducks, fowls, geese, hares, larks, landrails,
  partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintail, plover,
  pullets, snipe, tiu-keys, wild-fowl, widgeon,
  woodcock.
  
  February. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens,
  ducks, fowls, geese, hares, larks, landrails,
  partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintail, plover,
  ptarmigan, pullets, prairie-hen, rabbits, snipe,
  turkeys, teal, wild-fowl, widgeon, woodcock.
  
  March. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens, ducks,
  fowls, geese, guinea-fowls, hares, landrails, orto-
  lans (partridges, pheasants, and plover until
  middle of month), prairie-hens, ptarmigan,
  pigeons, pullets, quail, rabbits, ruffs and reeves,
  snipe (until 15th), teal, turkeys, widgeon, wild-
  fowl, woodcock.
  
  April. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,
  fowls, guinea-fowls, goshngs, hares, leverets,
  ortolans, prairie-hens, pigeons, ptarmigan, quail,
  rabbit, ruffs and reeves.
  
  May. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,
  fowls, guinea-fowls, gosHngs, green geese, hares,
  leverets, ortolans, pigeons, ptarmigan, pullets,
  quail, rabbits, rufis and reeves.
  
  June. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,
  fowls, guinea-fowls, gosUngs, green geese, hares,
  hazel hens, leverets, ortolans, pigeons, puUets,
  quails, rabbits, ruffs and reeves, turkey poults,
  wheatears.
  
  July. - Capons, chickens, ducks, duckhngs,
  fowls, green geese, gosUngs, hares, leverets,
  ortolans, pigeons, plover, pullets, quail, rabbits,
  ruffs and reeves, turkey poults, wheatears.
  
  August. - Capercailzie, capons, chickens, wild
  and tame ducks, duckhngs, fowls, geese, gos-
  Ungs, grouse (on I2th), hares, larks, leverets,
  pigeons, plover, pullets, quails, rabbits, smpe,
  teal, turkey poults, woodcock, wheatears.
  
  September. - Capercailzie, capons, chickens,
  wild and tame ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, haxes,
  larks, leverets, moor-game, partridges, pheasants,
  pigeons, plovers, pullets, rabbits, snipe, t\irkeys,
  turkey poults, teal, widgeon, woodcock, wheat-
  ears.
  
  October. - Black game, capercailzie, capons,
  cliickens, wild ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, hares,
  larks, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintails,
  plover, ptarmigan, pullets, rabbits, snipe,
  turkeys, turkey poults, teal, widgeon, wood-
  cock.
  
  November. - Black game, capercailzie, capons,
  chickens, wild and tame ducks, fowls, geese,
  grouse, hares, larks, landrails, peu-tridges,
  pheasants, pigeons, pintails, plover, ptarmigan,
  pullets, rabbits, snipe, turkeys, turkey poults,
  teal, widgeon, woodcock.
  
  December. - Black game, capercailzie (until
  20th), capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese,
  grouse (until 18th), hares, landrails, larks,
  partridges, pheasants, pintail, plover, ptarmigan,
  rabbits, snipe, teal, turkeys, turkey poxilts,
  \vidgeon, woodcock.
  
  
  in
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  THE CHOOSING OF FRUIT AND
  VEGETABLES
  
  Although it does not require much experience
  to tell when fruit and vegetables are fresh, it
  does require some attention and care to see that
  one is served with the proper article.
  
  Vegetables are never so good as when pro-
  ciired fresh from a garden, and when one is
  not the happy possessor of a piece of ground
  it is sometimes possible to make an arrange-
  ment with a gai'dener or farmer to send a
  supply two or three times weekly, if not
  daily.
  
  If vegetables and fruit have to be bought from
  a shop personal choice is always preferable to
  a written order. The greengrocer or fruiterer
  is naturally anxious to get rid of his stock, and
  it is not to be wondered at if he tries to dispose
  of the articles he has had longest before selling
  those which are fresh.
  
  The careful housewife will, however, insist
  upon getting wliat is really fresh and will accept
  nothing that is doubtful.
  
  Salads and other green vegetables especially
  are only good when newly gathered ; if they
  have been IjHng packed one on top of the other
  for any length of time they become unwhole-
  some, and this is often the cause of green vege-
  tables disagreeing with people who have a weak
  digestion.
  
  Cauliflowers should be close and very white,
  and those of a medium size are best; avoid
  those that have a greenish colovu-.
  
  Brassels Sprouts and Cabbages should be close
  and firm with plenty of heart. Young cabbages
  are the most delicate in flavour.
  
  Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows should also
  be firm, and those of a medium size and straight
  in form are to be preferred to the twisted and
  overgrown specimens.
  
  Tomatoes must not be over-ripe. Tlio home-
  grown red tomatoes are best for salads and for
  eating raw, while the foreign ones, which are
  cheaper, are excellent for cooking purposes.
  
  Peas and Beans are best when they are young,
  especially if they are to be served separately as
  vegetables to accompany meat. The older ones
  can be served in soups and stews.
  
  Celery should be chosen of a medium size, and
  tlie stalks must be very stiff and close -together.
  The whiter it is the better.
  
  Root Vegetables, unlike green vegetables, may
  bo kept for some time without suffering in any
  way ; they must, however, bo firm and not
  withered or shrunken. Some kinds, such as
  potatoes, carrots, turnips, and parsnips can even
  be stored for -winter use (see p. 102). Potatoes,
  for instance, can often be bought very cheaply
  by the sack in the summer, and there may bo a
  distinct advantage in laying in a store at this
  season. There must, of course, bo the proper
  accommodation for keeping tliom, and the
  
  
  greatest care must be taken to see that they axe
  sound and good when bought.
  
  It is always best to buy the vegetables that
  are in season ; they are then at their cheapest
  and best. The early and forced varieties rarely
  have the same flavour as those of maturcr growth
  and should not be bought by the tlirifty house-
  wife for the ordinary bill of fare.
  
  The same care must be taken in the choice of
  fruit, and only that which is perfectly sound
  should bo accepted. Wlien it is to be eaten raw
  it ought to be fully ripe without being over-
  much so.
  
  CALENDAR OF FRUIT IN SEASON
  
  January. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-
  nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, medlars, nuts, oranges,
  pears, pines, Spanish nuts, walnuts, &c.
  
  February. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-
  nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, medlars, nuts,
  oranges, peaches, pears, pines, rhubarb (forced),
  Spanish nuts, walnuts, &c.
  
  March. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-
  nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, melons, nuts, oranges,
  peaches, pears, pines, rhubarb (forced), Spanish
  nuts, walnuts, &c.
  
  April. - Almonds, apples, bananas, dried fruits,
  figs, grapes, nuts, oranges, pines, rhubarb, &c.
  
  May. - Almonds, apples, apricots (forced),
  bananas, cherries (forced), dried fruits, figs,
  grapes, green gooseberries, melons, oranges,
  pears, pines, rhubarb, &c.
  
  June. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bananas,
  cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, grapes,
  melons, nectarines, poaches, pears, pines, rasp-
  berries, rhubarb, strawberries, &c.
  
  July. - Almonds, apricots, bananas, cherries,
  currants, damsons, figs, gooseberries, grapes,
  melons, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears,
  pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, &c.
  
  August. - Almonds, apricots, bananas, cherries,
  cobnuts, currants, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes,
  greengages, medlars, melons, mulberries, nectar-
  ines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,
  raspberries, strawberries, walnuts, &c.
  
  September. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bana-
  nas, cherries, cobnuts, damsons, figs, filberts,
  grapes, greengages, melons, medlars, mulberries,
  nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,
  quinces, walnuts, &c.
  
  October. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bananas,
  cobnuts, cranberries, cocoanuts, damsons, figs,
  filberts, grapes, medlars, melons, nectarines,
  oranges, peaches, pears, pines, quinces, walnuts,
  &c.
  
  November. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-
  nuts, cocoanuts, cranberries, figs, filberts,
  grapes, melons, nuts (various), pears, pines,
  pomegranates, plums (Californian), quinces,
  walnuts, &c.
  
  December. - Almonds, apples, bananas, cheat-
  nuts, cocoanuts, cranberries, figs, filberts, grapes.
  
  
  FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
  
  
  115
  
  
  melons, nuts (various), oranges, pears, pines,
  plums (Californian), pomegranates, rhubai'b
  (forced), walnuts, &c.
  
  CALENDAR OF VEGETABLES IN SEASON.
  
  January. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,
  Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots,
  celery, chervil, cress, cucumbers, endive, leeks,
  lettuce, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salsify,
  savoys, spinach, tomatoes, turnips.
  
  February. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,
  Brussels sprouts, cabbage, celery, chervil, cress,
  cucumbers, endive, greens, leeks, lettuce, mush-
  rooms, potatoes, onions, parsnips, salsify,
  Scotch kale, savoys, sorrel, spinach, tomatoes,
  turnips.
  
  March. - Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broc-
  coli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots,
  cauliflower, celery, chervil, cucumber, endive,
  greens, horse-radish, leeks, lettuce, muslirooms,
  onions, parsnips, new potatoes, radishes, savoys,
  spinach, sea and Scotch kale, turnips, tomatoes,
  watercress.
  
  April. - Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, cab-
  bage, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, endive,
  eschalots, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, spring
  onions, parsnips, new potatoes, radishes, sea-
  kale, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips.
  
  May. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,
  cabbage, new carrots, cauliflower, chervil,
  cucumbers, endive, lettuce, leoks, mxishrooms,
  mustard and cress, peas, new potatoes, spring
  onions, radishes, sea-kale, spinach, turnips,
  watercress.
  
  June. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,
  new carrots, cucumbers, endive,
  
  
  greens, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips,
  peas, new potatoes, spring onions, radishes,
  sea-kale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable
  marrow, watercress.
  
  July. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,
  broad beans, cabbage, carrots, cauUflower,
  chervil, cress, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce,
  mushrooms, spring onions, peas, new potatoes,
  scarlet runners, spinach, tomatoes, turnipg,
  vegetable marrow, watercress.
  
  August. - Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbage,
  carrots, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumbers,
  endive, leeks, lettuce, muslirooms, peas, pota-
  toes, salsify, scarlet runners, spinach, tomatoes,
  turnips, vegetable marrow, watercress.
  
  September. - Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cab-
  bage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumber,
  endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips,
  peas, salsify, scarlet runners, spinach, sprouts,
  tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, water-
  cress.
  
  October. - Artichokes, beetroot, cabbage,
  carrots, cauUflower, celery, cucumber, greens,
  leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, savoys,
  scarlet runners, Spanish onions, spinach, sprouts,
  tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, water-
  cress.
  
  November. - Artichokes, beetroot, Brussels
  sprouts, carrots, celery, cress, cucumber, greens,
  leeks, lettuce, parsnips, savoys, Spanish onions,
  spinach, tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress.
  
  December. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,
  Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower,
  celery, cucumber, greens, leeks, parsnips, salsify,
  savoys, Scotch and sea-kale, Spanish onions,
  tomatoes, turnip tops, vegetable marrow,
  watercress.
  
  
  IMPERIAL WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
  
  
  Avoirdupois Weight
  
  
  16 drachms (dr. )
  
  16 ounces
  
  28 pounds
  
  4 quarters . .
  
  20 hundredweights
  
  
  14 pounds
  8 stones
  112 pounds
  
  
  make 1 ounce (oz.).
  ,, 1 pound (lb.).
  " 1 quarter (qr.).
  " 1 hundredweight
  (cwt.).
  1 ton.
  
  
  make 1 stone.
  
  " 1 hundredweight.
  " 1 hundredweight.
  
  
  Liquid Measure of Capacity
  
  4 gills make 1 pint (pt.).
  
  2 pints ,,1 quart (qrt.).
  
  4 quarts , 1 gallon (gal.).
  
  
  Dry Measure of Capacity
  
  2 gallons make 1 peck (pk.).
  
  4 pecks " 1 bushel (bush.).
  
  8 bushels " 1 quarter (qr.).
  
  
  GUIDE TO COOKERY
  
  It is a very mistaken idea that good cooking is necessarily an expensive matter. On the contrary,
  it is the skilful cook who literally " gathers up the fragments that nothing may be lost," and the
  careless one who looks upon them aa trifles not worthy of consideration.
  
  We as a nation are very much behindhand in our cooking arrangements, and it is only now that
  we are beginning to realise that training in the subject should form an important branch of every
  girl's education.
  
  It is Hamerton who says that " Intellectual labour is in its origin as dependent upon the art of
  cookery as the dissemination of its results is dependent upon paper-making and printing. Cookery
  in its perfection - the great science of preparing food in the best way suited to our use - is really the
  most important of all sciences and the mother of the arts."
  
  In the following paragraphs elaborate dishes which require the skill of a professed cook, very
  expensive dishes and dishes which take a long time to prepare have been purposely excluded, and
  only those given which are within the power of the amateur and home-worker. It cannot be too
  emphatically ui'ged, however, that to ensure success great care is needed in the preparation of every
  dish.
  
  The cook, whether professional or amateur, owes something to the author of the recipes she uses,
  and that debt is not discharged if the recipes are carelessly read and carelessly followed. Nearly
  every one has heard the remark, " I am sure I don't know why the dish is like this - the recipe must be
  ^\Tong." The recipe cannot reply : can only defend itself by success, and so in the interests of fair
  play it ought to receive just treatment. Accuracy in the weighing and measuring of ingredients must
  be strongly insisted upon. Cooking may be an art, but it is also a science, and to ensure success we
  must be exact. There must bo no guess-work. An ounce more or less may bring ruin on your
  labours.
  
  Let all your materials be good of their kind, and do not of set purpose substitute one ingredient
  for another.
  
  See also that the fire is in good condition for the cooking required of it, or that the oven is in a
  fair way to be at the right heat by the time you are ready to use it.
  
  Lastly, do not scorn those little details of arrangement which add nothing to the taste, but only
  to the tastcfulness of the dish. A little fresh parsley, a lace-edged paper, a sprinkling of sugar, &c.,
  may make all the difference between a tempting and an untompting dish.
  
  STOCKS, SOUPS, AND PUREES
  
  
  GeDeral Remarks on Stocks and Soups. - It is
  quite an art to make a good soup, but it is an
  art easily mastered if only a little care and
  trouble are expended upon its acquirement.
  
  There are few things, whether fish, flesh, fowl
  or vegetable, which will not lend themselves to
  soup-making. The variety of soups is very
  great ; in fact, it has been reckoned that there
  are over half a thousand different recipes. This
  number, however, is obtained by giving a separ-
  ate) title to every separate variation of a com-
  bination. For example, clear stock, which is
  the basis of so many clear soups, will take a
  different name from each special garnish or
  flavouring that is added to it, and the same
  throughout with the other soups - the slightest
  
  
  variations will furnish the occasion for a dis-
  tinctive name. When the numerous recipes come
  to be examined, it will bo found that, broadly
  speaking, they can be classified under one of the
  three following headings : -
  
  (1) Clear Soups and Broths.
  
  (2) Thickened Soups.
  
  (3) Purees.
  
  An explanation of these different classes of
  soups is given below, along with a few typical
  recipes, which ought to serve as a guide to the
  other varieties.
  
  The excellence of the soup will depend to a
  largo extent upon slow and steady cooking and
  to the judicious introduction of the flavouring.
  Although all soup should bo sufficiently seasoned
  
  
  116
  
  
  GUIDE TO COOKERY
  
  
  117
  
  
  before it is sent to table, salt must always be
  added with care, as an over -salted soup can be
  relished by no one.
  
  In the following recipes the approximate
  amount of liquid required is always given, but
  the exact quantity will depend somewhat upon
  the rate of cooking. If the soup becomes too
  much reduced by boiling and, consequently, too
  thick, more water or stock must be added to
  make up the original allowance.
  
  Tlie vegetables, too, are always spoken of as
  'prepared, and full directions for doing this will
  be found under the heading of " Vegetables."
  
  STOCK
  
  Stock is the foundation of nearly all soups,
  and it can be made from fresh meat, bones,
  fish, vegetables, or scraps of cooked meat and
  bones, &c.
  
  For the better soups, such aa clear soup and
  good whito soup, fresh meat is required, while
  second stock or general stock will serve as the
  foundation for many of the ordinary soups, and,
  besides furnishing the Hquid part of stews,
  whether white or brown, it wiU go a long way
  towards making gravies and sauces a success.
  
  There are different kinds of stock, i.e. brown,
  white, and fish stock, meat boilings and general
  stock. Of brown stock and white stock both a
  first and second stock can be made.
  
  Brown stock is made principally from beef with
  sometimes a little veal or some chicken bones
  added.
  
  White stock is made from any white meat such
  as veal, rabbit, or chicken.
  
  First stock is the first boiling of the meat and
  vegetables.
  
  Second stock is produced by putting the meat
  and vegetables on to boU a second time with
  fresh water.
  
  Fish stock, as its name implies, is made from
  fish or fish trimmings.
  
  Meat boilings is the name given to the water
  in which a joint of meat, fowl, or rabbit has
  been boiled.
  
  General stock is made from scraps of meat,
  bones, and vegetables, and drawn from a stock-
  pot.
  
  PmST STOCK FOR CLEAR AND BROWN
  
  SOUPS
  
  Ingredients -
  
  
  3 lbs. Shin of Beef or 2 lbs.
  
  Shin of Beef and 1 lb.
  
  Knuckle of Veal. •
  
  3 quarts Cold Water.
  1 Carrot.
  1 Turnip.
  1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs
  
  or a sprig of Thyme,
  
  Marjoram, and Basil.
  
  Method,
  
  
  2 small Onions.
  2 or 3 sticks of Celery or J
  tea-spoonful Celery Seed.
  2 dozen Peppercorns.
  8 Cloves.
  
  1 blade of Mace.
  
  2 Bay Leaves.
  A few Parsley Stalks.
  . dessert-spoonful Salt.
  
  Wipe the meat with a damp cloth.
  
  
  a very sharp knife and cut the meat into small
  pieces, keeping back any fat, but using the skin.
  Put the bones and meat into a stock-pot or
  large goblet with the cold water and salt, and
  if time permits let them soak for half-an-hour ;
  then put the pan on the fire, and bring the
  contents slowly to tire boil. Simmer slowly
  for haK-an-hour, and then remove any scum
  that may be on the top. If you begin the
  skimming too soon, the best part of the stock
  is removed. Next add the vegetables, prepared
  and cut rather small, and the herbs, celery seed,
  and peppercorns, &c., tied in a small piece of
  muslin. Simmer slowly from four and a half to
  five hours, never letting it go oif the boil ; then
  strain through a hair sieve or cloth stretched
  over a colander into a basin, and stand until
  cold.
  
  A darker-coloured stock may be obtained by
  frying the meat in a little dripping or butter
  before pouring on the water ; but the present
  fashion is to have clear soups pale in colour.
  
  Meat boilings may be used instead of water
  for making this stock, and any uncooked chicken
  bones would improve the flavour. Do not
  throw away the meat and vegetables left after
  straining, but put them on again with same
  quantity of water as before, and boil again
  for Second Stock,
  
  FIRST STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS
  
  
  Ingredients -
  
  3 lbs. Knuckle of Veal or
  2 lbs. Knuckle of Veal and
  1 lb. Neck of Mutton.
  
  3 quarts Cold Water.
  
  J Carrot.
  
  i Turnip.
  
  1 Onion.
  
  12 White Peppercorns.
  
  
  1 stick of Celery, or J tea-
  spoonful Celery Seed.
  
  6 or 8 Cloves.
  
  J tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs
  or a small sprig of Thyme,
  Marjoram, and Basil.
  
  1 blade of Mace.
  
  2 Bay Leaves.
  
  
  and removo all marrow from the bone. Take
  
  
  1 dessert-spoonful Salt.
  
  Method. - Make in the same way as first
  stock for brown soup (see above), but use
  fewer vegetables, as they tend to discolour the
  stock. Rabbit or chicken may be used instead
  of, or along with, the veal. Any white meat
  will do. A piece of lean ham or a small ham-
  bone will improve the flavour.
  
  A second stock may be taken from the meat
  and bones.
  
  SECOND STOCK
  
  After first stock is made, the meat and vege-
  tables should be put on again with the same
  quantity of water and boiled as before.
  
  It has not the same fresh flavour as first
  stock, but it is most useful in the making of
  sauces and gravies, and of many soups for
  which very good stock is not required.
  
  Second stock is generally a stifier jelly than
  first, as more of the gelatine becomes extracted
  from the bones.
  
  Sometimes the meat and vegetables are fried
  
  
  118
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  in a little dripping first. This gives the stock
  a darker colour and a richer flavour.
  
  FISH STOCK
  
  
  or a sprig of Thyme, Mar-
  joram, and Biisil.
  
  A few Parsley Stalks.
  
  1 dozen Peppercorns.
  
  3 Cloves.
  
  1 blade of Mace.
  
  1 Bay Leaf.
  
  1 dessert-spoonful Salt.
  
  
  Ingredients-
  
  2 lbs. of White Fish or Fish
  Bones and Triroiuiugs.
  
  2 quarts Cold Water.
  
  1 small Carrot.
  
  1 small Turnip.
  
  1 Onion.
  
  1 stick of Celerj' or J tea-
  spoonful Celery Seed.
  
  1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs
  
  Method. - Any white fish or trimmings of
  white fish, such as haddocks, cod, halibut,
  plaice, flounder, ling, "&c., may be used for
  fish stock. Fish such as mackerel, herring,
  and salmon are of too oily a nature and too
  strong in flavour. By fish trimmings is meant
  the bones, heads, fins, and skins of fish. If a
  light-coloured stock is wanted, avoid using too
  much dark-coloured skin. Wetsh the fish or
  trimmings thoroughly in cold water, and cut
  them into small pieces. Put them into a fish-
  kettle or large goblet with the water and salt.
  Put the lid on the pan, and bring to the boil ;
  then skim well, and simmer about fifteen
  minutes before adding the vegetables. As more
  scum rises remove it, or the stock will be
  cloudy in appearance. Prepare the vegetables,
  cut them rather small, and add them to the
  stock with the herbs, celery seed, pepper-
  corns, &c., tied in a small piece of miislin.
  Simmer slowly from three to four hours, then
  strain into a basin.
  
  This stock may be used as a basis for all fish
  soups and fish sauces.
  
  A whiter stock may be obtained by using
  half milk and half water, fewer vegetables, and
  by straining after half-an-hour's slow simmering.
  
  VEGETABLE STOCK
  
  
  Ingredients -
  
  2 Onions.
  
  2 medium-sized Carrots.
  
  1 medium-sized Tuniip.
  
  2 sticks Celery.
  2 quarts Water.
  Salt.
  
  8 oz. Lentils.
  
  
  A sprig of Parsley.
  
  " Thyme.
  
  ,, Marjoram.
  12 Black Peppercorns.
  1 blade Mace.
  3 or 4 Cloves.
  
  
  Method. - Prepare the vegetables and cut
  them in pieces. Put them in a saucepan with
  the water and seasoning, and boil all together
  for two or three hours. More water must bo
  added if the liquid becomes too much reduced.
  Skim well, strain, and it is ready for use.
  
  ^ote. - Almost any kind of vegetable may
  be used for making this stock, and the more
  variety the better. The trimmings and even
  the parings of vegetables can be utilised in
  this way, only care must be taken to see that
  they are thoroughly clean and fresh.
  
  
  GENERAL STOCK- THE STOCK-POT
  
  In every household where moat is used every
  day a stock-pot sl\ould be in general use. A
  regular stock-pot is inade of tiiined copper, tinned
  iron, aluminium, or cast iron. In large houses
  where much cooking is done it is better to havo
  one fitted with a tap, which will permit of the
  
  
  Stock-Pot.
  
  liquid being drawn off when required without dis-
  turbing the fat, which rises to the top. For small
  households an ordinary tinned or silicated sauce-
  pan will serve the purpose very well, or what is
  known as a digester, which is made of cast iron
  with a close-fitting hd. This latter is not ex-
  pensive, but it has the disadvantage of being very
  hea%'y. An earthenware casserole or marmite
  is also to be recommended for small quantities
  of stock ; it is very clean, and it is easy to keep
  the coni^ents simmering at a gentle rate.
  
  All scraps of meat, cooked or uncooked, bones
  and pieces of vegetable, poultry giblets and
  rinds of bacon, should be kept for making stock.
  
  
  Earthenware Casserole.
  
  Remains of gra^^ too should be saved for the
  same purpose, although no tliickenod sauco
  must be added, as it would cloud the stock.
  
  Look over the scraps carefully and see that
  they are all clean and free from taint. Break
  up the bones, remove any fat from the meat,
  and cut the vegetables in small pieces. Put
  them into the stock-pot with cold water to cover
  them, or the water in which meat or vegetables
  (except potatoes or cabbage) have been cooked
  may be used. Add a little salt, put on the lid,
  and bring the contents slowly to the boil. Then
  keep the stock slowly simmering at an even
  temperature, taking off the lid from time to
  
  
  GUIDE TO COOKERY
  
  
  119
  
  
  time in order to remove the scum. A few
  washed and crushed egg-shells put into the
  stock will help to clear it. One whole day's
  cooking will be sufficient, and at night it must
  be strained through a hair sieve into a basin
  and allowed to cool. The stock-pot should be
  thoroughly washed before it is used again.
  
  Tlie bones and any pieces of meat of value
  may be put on the next day with any fresh
  scraps, but not the vegetables if they have been
  boiled for long, because when the flavour of
  these has been extracted they become worse
  than useless, and only absorb the meaty
  flavours.
  
  Nothing must be added to a stock-pot Txnless
  it is quite clean and contains some goodness.
  Little bits must not be added at odd times, but
  only when the stock-pot is put on for the day ;
  all other pieces should be saved for the next
  day's use.
  
  Stock should always be made the day before
  it is required, as by this means the fat can easily
  be removed.
  
  To Remove Fat from Stock. - Have in readiness
  two iron spoons, a basin of boiling water, a
  cloth, and a small basin or dish into which to
  put the fat.
  
  Heat the spoons in the boiling water, and
  use first one and then the other to skim off the
  fat. The spoons, being hot, melt the fat, and
  make it much more easily removed.
  
  When as much as possible has been taken off
  with the spoons, dip the end of the cloth into
  boiling water, and wipe the stock over with
  this until quite free from grease. If the stock
  is not a jelly, pieces of kitchen paper must
  be passed over the t-^p of it instead of the
  cloth.
  
  Do not remove fat from stock or soup until it
  is about to be used, as it keeps out the air and
  helps to preserve it.
  
  GLAZE
  
  Glaze can either be bought by the oiince or
  made at home from stock. Glaze, as a rule, costs
  2d. per ounce, and this quantity will be sufficient
  to glaze an ox-tongue or a fair-sized piece of meat.
  Put the glaze into a small saucepan with sufficient
  water or stock to cover it, and allow it to melt
  slowly over the fire. Or put it into a jar with
  a very little water or stock, and stand the jar in
  a saucepan of boiling water until the glaze is
  melted. It will then be ready for use.
  
  Home-made glaze can be very easily procured
  in houses where there are large quantities of
  stock anil bones at disposal. Any good brown
  stock can be used, and the second boilings from
  meat and bones is almost preferable to freshly-
  made stock, as it is more gelatinous. Free the
  stock from all grease, and put at least one quart
  into a saucepan. Allow tliis to boil quickly with
  the lid off the pan until reduced to about half
  
  
  a pint, skimming when necessary. Tlien strain
  through a very fine strainer or piece of muslin,
  and reduce again in a aimaller saucepan until
  the glaze becomes as thick as treacle, when it
  will be ready for use.
  
  If not required at once, it should be poured
  into a jar, and if a little melted lard is poured
  over the surface the glaze will keep good for
  weeks. In fact, this is a very good way of pre-
  serving any surplus stock, as a little glaze is
  useful at all times for enriching soups and sauces
  as well as for coating meat, &c., and, diluted with
  water, it will again take the form of stock.
  
  To Glaze Meat. - Have the glaze prepared as
  above and in a melted condition, but not too
  hot. Use a small paint-brush or egg-brush, and
  paint the meat all over with it in even straight
  strokes. If one coating is not sufficient allow
  the first one to cool, and brush the meat over
  again as before. Meanwhile keep the glaze in
  a melted state by putting the pan or jar con-
  taining it in a saucepan half full of hot water.
  
  Do not waste any glaze that is left, but pour
  it carefully into a clean jar ready for future
  use, and rinse the brush and saucepan with
  boiling water, which pour into the stock-pot.
  
  CLEAR SOUPS AND BROTHS
  
  Clear Soups (Consommes). - The basis of these
  soups is good brown stock, which is clarified
  according to directions given on page 120.
  While first stock is always to be preferred for
  the purpose, it is quite possible to utilise good
  second stock, only the soup thus obtained is
  liable to be rather gelatinous in flavour and
  somewhat lacking in that fresh meaty taste,
  which is one of the chief characteristics of good
  conso)7i7ne.
  
  The different clear soups take their distinctive
  name from the garnish that is added to them.
  There may also be some variation in the meat
  used for the stock - as in clear game, oxtail,
  or txirtle soup, &c.
  
  Clear soups are amongst the most expensive
  soups to make, and at the same time they sire
  the most generally used, especially if a dinner
  consists of several courses, as they are hght
  and strengthening without being rich and
  satisfying.
  
  A good consomme should be of a rich amber
  colour, and this must be obtained without
  the addition of caramel, which would spoil the
  flavom*.
  
  Broths. - A Broth differs from a clear soup in
  that it is unclarified, and the meat with which
  it is made is either served in the soup or lifted
  out and served as a separate course.
  
  There is usually a garnish of rice or barley
  and cut-up vegetables, or the vegetables may
  be cut in larger pieces and served as an ac-
  companiment to the meat.
  
  A broth is a very substantial soup and qviite
  
  
  120
  
  
  THE \VO]\IAN'S BOOK
  
  
  unBuited as the prelude to a long dinner. It
  forms almost a meal in itself and is excellent as
  a luncheon dish, especinlly in cold weather or
  for a nursery dinner. It is always acceptable
  too to those who have been working in the open
  air or engaged in sports. It is one of the niost
  ecoaoroical forms of soup.
  
  Clear Soup
  (Fr. Consomm6)
  
  
  Ingredients -
  
  1 quart good Brown or First
  
  Stock.
  6 OS. lean Juicy Beef.
  
  
  1 lump of Sugar.
  
  1 white and shell of Egg.
  
  
  Method - Carefully remove all fat from the
  top of the stock, and put it into a clean lined
  or copper saucepan. Wipe the beef with a
  damp cloth, and shred it down finely with a
  knife, or put it through the mincing macliine,
  removing all fat and skin. Add this to the
  stock with the white of the egg and the shell
  well washed. Whisk these over the fire with a
  wire whisk until the soup just comes to boiling
  point. Then remove the whisk and let it boil
  well up. Draw the pan to the side of the fire
  where the soup will keep warm, but not siijamer,
  and cover it over with a plate or saucepan lid.
  Let it stand from ten to fifteen minutes. Tie a
  
  clean cloth on to
  a soup - stand or
  the four legs of a
  chair tm-ned up-
  side down, letting
  it fall slightly in
  the middle so as
  to form a bag.
  Pour some boiling
  water through the
  cloth into a basin
  to thoroughly heat
  the cloth. Put a
  clean diy basin
  underneath, and
  pour the soup
  gently through the
  cloth. The soup
  will not be clear
  the first time, as it
  gets shaken with the straining, so change the
  basin and pour the soup through again, repeating
  this process until the soup runs through quite
  clear. In reheating add a lump of sugar,
  which makes the soup sparkle.
  
  Notes. - The various consommes take their
  names from the different garnishes that are
  addr>d to this soup.
  
  The following are a few of the many vsirleties : -
  Consomme & la Brunoise. - A garnish of cooked
  carrot, turnip, celery, leeks - cut in dice.
  
  Consom.m4 A la Celestine. - With fine slu-eds of
  savoury pancake.
  
  
  For clearing soup.
  
  
  Consomme d la Crecy. - Garnish of Httle balls
  of glazed carrot.
  
  Cori^omtni d'Orleans. - Garnish of small green
  and wliite quenelles.
  
  Consomme d la Florentine. - ^With cheese
  quenelles.
  
  Consomm4 A V Impiratrice. - Garnish of poached
  eggs.
  
  Consommi d la Jardinilre. - With mixed
  vegetables cut in pretty shapes.
  
  Consonwii Jerusalem. - Witii little balls of
  cooked Jerusalem artichokes.
  
  Consomme d la Julienne. - With different
  vegetables cut in long thin strips.
  
  Consomme aux Pdtes d'ltalie. - With Italian
  paste in fancy shapes.
  
  Consomme d la Printaniire. - With spring
  vegetables and young green peas.
  
  Consomme Royale, - With rounds or dice of
  custard.
  
  When the garnish is made of vegetables these
  should be cooked separately and only added to
  the soup at the last. Root vegetables should
  be cooked in a little stock and seasoned with
  salt and a pinch of sugar. The stock should
  then be allowed to reduce to a glaze. Fine green
  vegetables, such as green peas, asparagus points,
  or French beans, should simply be steamed or
  boiled carefully in a little water.
  
  Various fancy cutters can be bought for cutting
  vegetables in fancy shapes.
  
  For quenelles use a small quantity of nicely
  made quenelle meat, put it into a forcing-
  bag and force out fancy shapes or small balls
  on a greased tin, then poach in boiling stock or
  water.
  
  ItaUan paste or macaroni must also be cooked
  and rinsed in cold water previous to adding it
  to the consomme, otherwise it would destroy
  the clearness of the soup. There are scores of
  garnishes for clear soup besides those given
  above ; in fact, new names are constantly being
  invented, and a special event or a passing fashion
  will furnish the occasion for a new name, which
  in most cases means only a very small variation
  in a well-known soup.
  
  Chicken Broth
  
  (Fr. Bouillon de Poulet)
  
  
  1 table-spoonful chopped
  
  Parsley.
  Pepper and salt.
  
  
  Ingredients-
  
  1 Chicken.
  
  2 or 3 pints Cold Water.
  1 table-spoonful Rice or
  
  crushed Tapioca.
  
  Method. - Draw and singe the chicken, and
  make it very clean. The inferior part^ will do
  quite well for making the broth. The breast
  may be cut off and reserved for some other dish.
  Cut the rest of the chicken into joints first, then
  take all the meat from the bones and cut it into
  small pieces. Chop the bones and wash any
  part which does not look perfectly clean. Keep
  
  
  GUIDE TO COOKERY
  
  
  121
  
  
  laack any soft fat, but use the skin. Wash the
  neck well, and let it soak in cold water and salt
  for some time to draw out the blood. Open the
  gizzard and remove the bag of stones from the
  inside, then wash it well, pulUng off all the fat
  skin from the outside. Remove the gall-bag
  very carefully from the liver, cutting it away
  with a pair of scissors, and wash the liver well.
  Also wash the heart and scald the feet, letting
  them lie in boiling water for a short time, and
  then scrape them well.
  
  Take a clean lined saucepan, put into it the
  meat, bones, skin, neck, Uver, gizzard, heart,
  and feet. Add the salt and enough cold water
  to well cover all ; the quantity depends upon
  the size of the fowl used. Put the lid on the pan
  and bring slowly to the boil, then skim several
  times until the broth looks quite clear. Allow
  the broth to simmer from four to five hours until
  the goodness is well extracted from the bones, &c.,
  skimming when necessary. Strain the broth
  through a fine strainer or hair sieve, and let it
  stand till cold. Then remove all fat from the
  top of the broth, return to a saucepan, and
  thicken according to taste. If rice is used, wash
  it well and cook in the broth until tender. If
  tapioca, bring the broth to the boil, sprinkle in
  the tapioca, and cook for ten minutes, until
  quite clear. Season to taste, and add the chopped
  parsley last. If small pieces of chicken are liked
  served in the soup, the best plan is to lift some
  of the nice pieces out of the broth as soon as
  they are cooked, but before all the goodness is
  extracted, and reserve these for returning to the
  broth just before serving. A more economical
  broth can be made by using a piece of mutton
  or veal along with the chicken.
  
  Sometimes the chicken is kept whole and
  served as a separate course ; in this case small
  pieces of vegetable or thinly sliced leeks might
  be cooked with it, and the rice or tapioca added
  about half-an-hour before serving.
  
  Note. - A more highly flavoured broth may
  be made by cooking small pieces of vegetable
  along with the chicken.
  
  Cockle Leekie
  
  An old cock, along with a plentiful supply of
  leeks, is generally used for this soup, hence the
  name. Make in the same way as chicken broth
  (see above), allowing double the quantity of
  water and rice and six or eight leeks.
  
  
  Ingredients -
  
  
  Hotch Potch
  
  
  2 quarts Mutton Broth.
  Equal quantities of young
  
  Carrots, Turnips, and
  
  Spring Onions.
  1 Lettuce.
  1 Cauliflower.
  
  
  1 pint Green Peas.
  
  1 dessert-spoonful chopped
  
  Paraley.
  1} lbs. Lamb or small Mutton
  
  Cutlets.
  Pepper and Salt.
  
  Method. - Put the mutton broth or water in
  "which some mutton has been boiled into a sauce-
  
  
  pan, and bring it to the boil. Clean some young
  carrots, turnips, and onions ; cut the carrots
  and turnips into very small neat pieces, and the
  onions into thin sUces. About one teacupful of
  each will be required. Put them into the sauce-
  pan with the broth, and boil quickly for half-an-
  hoiir. Trim the chops neatly, removing most
  of the fat ; add them next with the flower of
  the cauliflower broken into small pieces, and
  the lettuce finely shred. Simmer the soup
  slowly for one hoiir longer, then add the peas,
  and cook until they are soft. Add the parsley
  last, and season with pepper and salt.
  
  Mutton Broth
  
  {Fr. Bouillon de Mouton)
  Ingredients -
  
  IJ lbs. Neck or Knuckle of (" 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped
  
  Mutton. Parsley.
  
  3 pints Cold Water. A small piece each of Carrot,
  
  1 table-spoonful Rice or Turnip, Onion, and Celery.
  
  Barley. I Pepper and salt.
  
  Method. - Wipe the meat, and cut it awaj'^
  from the bone and into small pieces, removing
  any superfluous fat. Prepare the vegetables,
  and cut them into small neat pieces. Put the
  meat, bones, and water into a saucepan with a
  little salt, put on the lid, and bring slowly to
  the boil. Sldm well ; add the rice well washed,
  or the barley washed and blanched, and the
  prepared vegetables. Simmer from two to
  tliree hours, or until the vegetables are well
  cooked. Remove the bones, and any grease
  from the top of the stock; add the parsley, pepper,
  and more salt if necessary before serving.
  
  Another way of making this broth is to keep
  the meat whole and to serve it as a separate
  course with a httle of the liquid broth strained
  round it. The vegetable should then be added
  in rather larger pieces and used as a garnish to
  the meat. The broth itself may also be finished
  differently. After the meat and vegetables
  have been removed, switch it for a few minutes
  with a wire wliisk, then beat up an egg in a
  basin, pour it into the soup-tureen and pour
  the soup slowly on to it. This makes a very
  delicious soup.
  
  Pot au Feu
  
  
  Ingredients -
  
  1 lbs. shin of Beef or shoulder
  
  of Beef.
  i quarts Cold Water.
  
  2 oz. crashed Tapioca or
  Sago.
  
  2 Carrots.
  1 Turnip.
  1 Parsnip.
  
  
  3 sticks of Celery.
  
  3 Leeks.
  
  A bunch of Herbs.
  
  1 Cabbage.
  
  20 Black Peppercorns.
  
  6 Cloves.
  
  1 small blade of Mace.
  
  Salt.
  
  
  Method. - Break up the bones, wipe the meat
  with a damp cloth, and tie it into shape with a
  piece of tape. Put them into a large saucepan
  or earthenware casserole with the water, and
  bring to the boil. Add one dessert-spoonful of
  
  
  122
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  Bait, and skim well. Tlien simmer very gently
  for two hours. Meanwhile have all tho vegetables
  carefully cleaned and prepared, and, with the
  exception of the cabbage, cut them in moderate-
  sized pieces and tie them in a piece of muslin.
  When the meat has simmered the required time,
  add the vegetables to the pan, with a bunch of
  herbs and the spicos, also tied in a piece of
  musUn. Simmer gently for two hours more.
  Then add the cabbage, cleaned and trimmed,
  cut in two, and tied together with string. Cook
  again imtil the cabbage is tender from half to
  three-quarters of an hour. Tlien lift out tho
  meat on to a hot dish, undo the tape, garnish
  with the vegetables, and pour some of the liquid
  round as gravy. Serve the cabbage separately
  in a vegetable dish, remo\'ing the string. Re-
  move the herbs and spices from the stock in the
  pan, sprinkle in the sago or tapioca, and cook
  until transparent about fifteen minutes. Season
  to taste, slvim well, and serve in soup-tureen.
  
  Note. - Pot au Feu is the favourite dish in
  many French households.
  
  Spring Soup
  
  {Fr. Potage Printaniere)
  
  Make in the same way as Hotch Potch (p. 121),
  omitting the meat.
  
  Veal Broth
  
  (Fr. Bouillon de Veau)
  Make in the same way as Mutton Broth (p. 121).
  
  THICKENED SOUPS
  
  Thickened soups can be made of fish, meat,
  or vegetables, and they generally have some
  stock as their basis. The stock may be either
  brown, white, fish, or vegetable, according to the
  nature of the soup, or sometimes a mixture of
  stock and milk, or milk and water is used.
  
  Some starchy or farinaceous material, such
  as flour, arrow-root, cornflour, tapioca, &c.,
  generally supplies the thickening property, or,
  in the case of the richer soups, a liaison or com-
  bination of eggs and cream is used.
  
  Portions of the substance of which the soup is
  made are frequently served in it as in kidney
  soup and ox-tail soup. Care must be taken
  not to make those soups too tliick.
  
  
  Cabbage Soup
  
  Ingredients -
  1 Cabbage.
  
  1 small Onion or Ixsek.
  1 quart Meat Boilings.
  i pint Millc.
  
  1 table-siKX)nful crushed
  Tapioca.
  
  Method. - Wash the cabbage well in cold
  water, and remove the coarse outside leaves and
  any hard pieces of stalk. Separate all the leaves.
  
  
  I tea-spoonful chopped
  
  Parsley.
  Some crofttons of Toasted
  
  Bread.
  White Pepper and Salt.
  
  
  and let thorn soak in cold water and salt for
  half-an-hoiu". Then drain the water away, and
  slired the leaves finely. Put the shred cabbage
  into a saucepan of fast-boiUng water, salted in
  the proportion of one dessertspoonful to the
  quart, boil quickly for five minutes, and then
  drain. Slice the onion or leek very thinly, and
  chop it finely, put it into a saucepan with the
  cabbage and stock or meat boilings, and simmer
  for twenty minutes. Add tho milk and crushed
  tapioca, and cook for ten minutes longer, or
  until the tapioca turns quite clear. Add the
  parsley just before serving, and season to taste
  with white pepper and salt. Put some small
  croiitons of toasted bread into tho soup-tureen,
  and pour the soup, boiUng hot, over them.
  
  Calf's Tail Soup
  
  (Fr. Potage de Queue de Veau)
  Ingredients -
  
  
  2 Tails.
  
  3 pints White Stock,
  i pint Milk.
  
  IJ oz. Butter.
  
  IJ oz. Flour.
  
  A Bay Leaf.
  
  Some Parsley Stalks.
  
  A pinch of Nutmeg.
  
  
  2 Yolks.
  
  1 gill of Cream. .
  
  J Carrot.
  
  A small piece of Turnip.
  
  1 Onion.
  
  6 Cloves.
  
  1 glass of Sherry.
  
  1 oz. grated Parmesan.
  
  
  Method. - Wash the tails, and cut them into
  pieces about IJ inches long ; put them into a
  saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover
  them, bring to the boil, and pour the water away.
  Rinse out the saucepan, and return the pieces
  of tail to it with the stock, bring to the boil
  again, and skim well. Add the vegetables all
  carefully cleaned, and cut in small pieces, the
  bay leaf, cloves, nutmeg, and parsley stalks.
  Put the lid on the pan, and simmer slowly from
  one and a half to two hours, or until the meat
  wiU slip quite easily from the bones ; then strain
  through a wire sieve into a basin, and remove
  all fat from the stock. Melt the butter in a
  saucepan, but do not brown it, add the flour,
  and mix smoothly together with a wooden spoon ;
  then pour on tho stock, stir over the fire until
  boiling, and allow it to boil about five minutes.
  
  Boat up the yolks of eggs in a basin with the
  cream, add the sherry, and strain these into tho
  soup, stirring all the time. Add the pieces of tail
  and seasoning to taste, but do not boil again.
  Put the grated cheese into tho soup -tureen, and
  pour the boiling soup on to them.
  
  Note. - The cheese may bo omitted.
  
  Cauliflower and Lettuce Soup
  
  (Fr. Potage de Choufleur et de Laitues)
  Ingredients -
  
  
  a large Cauliflower.
  1 small Lettuce.
  1 quart Meat Boilings or
  Second White Stock.
  
  
  1 oz. crushed Tapioca or
  
  small Sago.
  1 oz. Butter.
  White Pepper .ind Salt.
  1 dessert-spoonful chopped Parsley.
  
  Method. - Use the wliito part only of the
  
  
  GUIDE TO COOKERY
  
  
  123
  
  
  cauliflower. Cut it into small pieces, wash in
  cold water. Then scald in fast-boiling water
  for five minutes and drain.
  
  Put the stock into a saucepan, and bring it to
  the boil. Throw in the pieces of cauliflower, and
  boil them until tender, about half-an-hour ; then
  add the milk, the butter, and the lettuce cut in
  fine short shreds. Sprinkle in the tapioca or
  sago, and cook all together for ten minutes
  longer, stirring frequently. Season to taste, and
  add the parsley at the end.
  
  Curry Soup (White)
  
  {Fr. Potage au Cari (Blanche))
  
  
  Ingredients -
  
  IJ pints White Stock or
  
  Meat Boilings.
  1 table-spoonful Curry
  
  Powder.
  
  1 oz. Cornflour.
  
  2 table-spoonfuls Cream .
  1 yolk of Egg.
  
  
  1 table-spoonful chopped
  
  Parsley.
  Pepper and Salt.
  Squeeze of Lemon Juice.
  Small pieces of Chicken or
  
  Rabbit.
  Boiled Rice.
  
  
  Method. - ^Any light stock, or the water in
  which a fowl, rabbit, or piece of veal has been
  boiled, will do for this soup. Put the stock into
  a saucepan, and bring it to the boil. Put the
  curry powder and cornflour into a basin, add
  the milk graduallj' to them, mixing with an iron
  spoon until smooth. Add this to the stock, stir
  until boiling, and simiuer for ten minutes. Then
  draw the pan to the side of the fire, and strain
  in the cream and yolk of egg mixed together.
  Season to taste, and sprinkle in the parsley. If
  possible, add smie small pieces of cliicken or
  rabbit. Stir the soup over the fire until almost
  boiling. Do not boil, or the yolk of egg will
  curdle. Squeeze in the lemon juice, and pour
  the soup into a hot soup-tureen. Serve with
  plain boiled rice, on a separate dish (see p. 157).
  
  Lettuce Soup
  
  {Fr. Potage de Laitues)
  Ingredients -
  
  
  2 large Lettuces
  i lb. Spinach.
  
  2 or 4 Spring Onions.
  
  3 oz. Butter.
  
  
  2 pints light Stock.
  1 or 2 yolks of Eggs,
  i gill of Cream.
  
  
  Method. - Wash the vegetables, drain and cut
  in fine shreds. Put them into a stewpan with
  the butter and seasoning, and cook them over
  the fire for ton minutes, stirring all the time with
  a wooden spoon. Add the stock, wliicb mny
  either be vegetable stock or boilings from meat,
  and simmer from three-quarters of an hour to
  one hour. Draw the saucepan to the side of
  the fire and add the yolk of egg and cream
  mixed together. The soup must not boil
  again.
  
  
  Mock Turtle Soup
  
  {Fr. Potage do Faasse Tortue)
  
  Ingredients -
  
  J Calf's Head.
  
  J quart Cold Water.
  
  
  1 glass Sheery.
  } tea-spoonful Celery Seed.
  
  2 Bay Leaves.
  1 blade of Mace.
  A sprig of Parsley, Tliyme,
  
  and Marjoram.
  Pepper and Salt.
  A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
  Force-meat Balls.
  
  
  4 Carrot.
  i Turnip.
  
  1 Onion.
  
  2 oz. Butter.
  
  2 oz. Cornflour.
  6 Cloves.
  
  3 oz. lean Ham or a Ham-
  bone.
  
  Method. - ^Wash the head well, removing the
  brains, which are not used in the soup, but may
  be kept for some small savoury dish. Take
  away all the gristle from the nostrils, and let the
  head soak in cold water, with a handful of salt
  in it, for half-an-hour at least. Then blanch it
  - that is, put it into a saucepan with cold water
  to cover it - bring to the boil, pour the water
  away, and wash the head again in cold water.
  Cut all the flesh from the bones, and tie it in a
  piece of muslin. Put it with the bones and
  water into a large saucepan, and let it simmer
  gently, skimming occasionally, for three and a
  half hours. Then strain the stock through a hair
  sieve, and let it stand till cold. Melt the
  butter in a saucepan, have the vegetables and
  ham cut into small pieces, and fry them in it
  with the herbs and spices. Let them get a nice
  hght brown colour, and stir well to keep them
  from burning. Then add the cornfloiir, and
  mix it smoothly in. Remove all fat from the
  top of the stock, pour it into the saucepan, and
  stir until boiling. Add pepper and salt to taste,
  and simmer slowly for one and a half hours.
  Remove any scum that may rise. Strain through
  a hair sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan,
  and return the soup to it to reheat. Add the
  wine and lemon juice, and serve in it force-meat
  balls (see p. 179) and small pieces of the heeid
  cut into dice.
  
  Oyster Soup
  {Fr. Potage aus Huitres)
  
  Ingredients -
  
  2 doz. fresh Oysters or 3 doz
  
  tinned Oysters.
  2 pints White or Fish Stock
  1 oz. Butter.
  1 oz. Flour.
  A pinch of Cayenne.
  
  
  1 gill of Cream.
  
  2 yolks of Eggs.
  1 tea-spoonful
  
  Essence.
  A squeeze of Lemon Juice,
  White Pepper and Salt.
  
  
  Anchovy
  
  
  Method. - Put the oysters into a small sauce-
  pan with their outi liqiior, bring them almost to
  the boil, then strain, saving the hquor. Beard
  the oysters (that is, remove the piece like a
  fringe that encircles them), cut them in two, and
  put them aside for serving in the soup. Put the
  beards into a saucepan with the liquor and the
  stock, and let them simmer for half-an-hour, to
  extract all the flavour from them. If the stock
  is not previously well flavotired, small pieces of
  
  
  124
  
  
  THE WOMAN'S BOOK
  
  
  the different flavouring vegetables should also
  be cooked in it. Strain tlirough a fine hair
  sieve or piece of muslin, and rinse out the sauce-
  pan ready for use. First melt in it the butter,
  being careful it does not brown, add to it the
  flour, and mix together until quite smooth.
  Pour on the stock, and stir constantly over tho
  fire until boiling. Skim if necessary. Season
  to taste with a little white pepper, salt, ancho\^
  essence, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up the
  yolks of eggs in a basin with the cream, draw the
  pan with the soup in it to one side of the fire,
  and strain them into it, stirring all the time.
  Reheat, but do not boil again. Add a squeeze
  of lemon juice. Put the oysters into the soup-
  tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve.