Delicious In Dungeon. The woman's book

Delicious In Dungeon : другие произведения.

The woman's book

Самиздат: [Регистрация] [Найти] [Рейтинги] [Обсуждения] [Новинки] [Обзоры] [Помощь|Техвопросы]

Ссылки:

Школа кожевенного мастерства: сумки, ремни своими руками

Комментарии: 10, последний от 20/02/2024. © Copyright Delicious In Dungeon Размещен: 18/02/2024, изменен: 18/02/2024. 5981k. Статистика. Справочник: Любовный роман, Естествознание, Foreign+Translat Скачать FB2		Ваша оценка:
Аннотация: The woman's book Publication date 1911

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE

WOMAN'S

BOOK

CONTAINS EVERYTHING A

WOMAN OUGHT TO KNOW

EDITED BY FLORENCE B. JACK, LATE

PRINCIPAL OF THE SCHOOL OF THE

DOMESTIC ARTS, EDINBURGH, AND

RITA STRAUSS, ASSISTED BY MANY

EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS

LONDON: T. C. & E. C. JACK

16 HENRIETTA STREET, W.C. : AND EDINBURGH

1911

^otx^

. f\t

PREFACE

We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before tbe Woman's

Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have

attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and

not a few mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-

standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-

fully to new editions being called for, when any suggestions and corrections

sent us can be effected.

We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects

of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied

a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book

as a whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.

Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.

We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter

for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened

for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity

for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the

work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or

by women.

It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past

have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for

certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the

educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's

work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - caUed forth faculties

of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible

book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the

ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In

writing it we have discovered afresh that the quahties that are demanded of a

field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary

quaUfications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,

tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling

the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not

common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon

^0%^^

PREFACE

We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before the Woman's

Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have

attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and

not a feAV mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-

standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-

fully to new editions being caUed for, when any suggestions and corrections

sent us can be effected.

We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects

of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied

a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book

as ia whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.

Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.

We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter

for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened

for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity

for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the

work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or

by women.

It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past

have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for

certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the

educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's

work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - called forth faculties

of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible

book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the

ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In

writing it we have discovered afresh that the qualities that are demanded of a

field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary

qualifications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,

tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling

the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not

common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon

vi PREFACE

a woman. Patience, wisdom, self-sacrifice are called for at every hour of the

day. Morally as well as intellectually the domestic woman's life is rich in

opportunity.

While, however, we cannot appreciate too highly the value of the work

done by the domestic woman, it is absurd to regard that as woman's only sphere.

Many have not the opportunity of such a life : many have not the aptitude

for it. We have therefore endeavoured to take the widest possible view of

Woman's sphere. Everything she can do well, that she is entitled to have

the opportunity of domg. We hope that the information given in the volume

about the various kinds of work now open to women, and the various agencies

at work to quaUfy women for the work they can do, will be found useful ; and

we hope, too, that the manner in which we have presented the domestic informa-

tion may lead to a higher standard of attainment in woman's greatest industry

- the home.

F. B. J,

R. S.

London,

A-pril 1911.

LIST OF CONTENTS

PAOE

The House - Choice, Construction, Fittings .... 1

Mistress and Servants 41

Guide to Household Work 58

Food and the Kitchen 87

Guide to Cookery 116

The Table 236

Household Linen 257

Guide to Laundry Work . . . . . . .271

Dress - its Choice and Care 301

Etiquette and Social Guide 325

Management of Money and Legal Guide . , . . 362

Plain Sewing and Mending 387

Home Dressmaking 419

Home Millinery 432

Health and the Toilet 447

The Child 466

Holidays and Travel . 498

Home Pets 507

Poultry-Keeping 517

Recreations 524

Home Nursing and " First Aid " 548

Home Gardening 580

Household Repairs and Upholstery 604

Careers for Women 615

Literary and Secretarial Work 62b

Medicine and Nursing 633

Women in Horticulture and in Agriculture . . . 647

Domestic Science 658

Women in Business 665

Civil Service and Public Work 678

Arts and Crafts 682

Social and Philanthropic Work 691

Women in Politics 696

Miscellaneous Facts and Figures 699

vii

SOME OF THE CONTRIBUTORS

MRS. BERNARD MOLE, Principal, St. Mary's Nursery College, Hamp-

stead,

MISS FEDDEN, Principal, St. Martha's College of Housecraft, London.

MISS MAUD COOKES, Head Teacher, Dressmaking and Millinery,

National Training School of Cookery, London.

MISS ALICE LEMON, M.R.B.W.A.

MISS MARGARET E. BUCHANAN, Ph. Chem., M.P.S., President of

the Association of Women Pharmacists.

MISS K. M. COURTAULD, Principal of Colne Engaine Farm, Earl's

Colne, Essex.

MISS N. EDWARDS, President of the Ladies' Poultry Club and

Principal of Coaley Poultry Farm, Gloucestershire.

MISS BERTHA LA MOTHE, Teacher of and Lecturer on "Bee-

keeping."

viil

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE HOUSE

THEK. is nothing that requires more careful -nsideration than the^^^^^^^^^

qXt^^Stur-t^^^^^^^^^^^^

never a thought to position, site, aspect ventilat3 ox. samtary a^ange..ente^ ^^

purse.

First Considerations.- The first point for the

would-be householder to consider is what rent

can be afforded, or, if she wislies to Purchase

the house, what sum can be devoted to this

purpose. She should be as exact as possible m

her calculations before she makes up her mmd

whether to buy or rent a dwelhng Bates and

taxes have to be considered m both cases. The

purchase money, it must be remembered, repre-

sents money which otherwise ^vested would

have brought in a yeaily rate of interest. Ihe

loss of this yearly interest must be reckoned as

equivalent to annual out-of-pocket expenditure,

aided to which must be the cost of upkeep

and repairs, and those taxes which, m the case

of a house let on lease, are paid by the landlord,

not to speak of the many other expenses which

the ownership of house property involves.

K it is proposed to lease a house there are

several points wliich Would increase or decrease

the expenditure as the case may be. If it is

taken on a repairing lease, the tenant wiU have

to see to all repairs both inside and out. _ itos

will amount to not a little expenditure in the

course of the year, and therefore repairing leases

should be avoided where possible. In London,

however, and many other large towns most ot

the houses are let upon repau-mg leases. _ In

these ch-cumstances it is more than ever im-

portant that the house be in thorough condition

and repair before the new tenant takes pos-

session.

In some leases a stipulation is made that the

landlord will attend to aU outside repairs, whilst

a tenant wiU be held responsible for inside re-

pairs ; but the ideal arrangement is undoubtedly

that in which the landlord undertakes to do oM

repairs, even though the rent may be a httle

higher in consequence. There are many im-

portant legal points involved in the drawing up

of a lease or a deed of purchase (see Law of

Landlord and Tenant, p. 379). It is always

advisable, therefore, for the would-be house-

holder to secure the service of a good and

reUable house agent to act for her m the trans-

action. She might also find it expedient to

consult her lawyer.

A small amount expended upon agent s and

lawver's fees has often been the means of saving

large sums of money, and it is worse than folly

for the householder without any elementary

knowledge of the law in regard to landlord and

tenant, or of the intricacies of a contract of sale

to We to cope with the legal teclmicahties

invoh^d in a purchase or lease without any

advice. Even if she does possess some know-

Tedge of the law, it is better for her to have

expert advice; often flaws are found in leases

or agreements which only a trained legal mind

can detect, and it is always better to be on the

safe side in these matters. (See Agents Fees,

^'i?f ^regard to the purchase of a house, this

may often be done tlirough the medium of a

THE WOIMAN'S BOOK

good " Bxiilding Society." A Building Society

advances to its members loans for the purpose

of acquiring houses, or of ewjquiring land for

building purposes. In return for the loan, the

house or land so acquired is mortgaged to the

Society. \Mion the loan is repaid, the house

becomes tho absolute property of the member.

The fund out of wliich the Society grants the

loans is provided by the subscription of the

members themselves.

Locality. - Hax-ing calculated to the nearest

figure the sum of money she is justified in

spending, or the annual amount for rent, rates,

smd taxes wliich she can afford to allot out of

her yesu-ly income, the householder must con-

sider in what locality she is most likely to obtain

a house wliich will best meet •w-ith her require-

ments. If members of the family have to go

into the city daily, then the residence should

be one from wliich the city is of easy access.

House rents in towns are higher than in

the suburbs, but where a residence in the

suburbs is selected, train and omnibus fares

will have to be added to the yearly ex-

penditure, so that in the long run the dif-

ference may not be so great. Very often in

some parts of a town rents will be found to be

on a cheaper scale than elsewhere, but this is

mostly the case in streets which do not bear

the best of reputations ; the character of the

locality should therefore be well inquired into

before deciding to profit by a seeming bargain

in the rental of a town house.

Where there is a family of cliildren, it is better

as a rule to choose a house in some accessible

suburb rather than in a town itself. In the

suburbs good roomy houses with gardens can be

had at quit" moderate rentals. Houses with

gsu'dens are rare in town, except at very high

rentals, whilst in many towns even a high rental

cannot secure the most minute amount of

garden space.

A suburb where there is a good train service

should be selected, and the house should be as

near as possible to the station. This last is of

the utmost importance. Some people, whilst

being careful to select an easily accessible spot

within twenty minutes' train joiuney of town,

choose a residence of about half-an-hour's walk

from the station. If they had chosen a home

nefir tho station in one of the more remote

suburbs, they would have been better off. The

time spent in going backwards and forwards

would have been the same, and the drawback

of the long walk to and from the house in

inclement weather would have been avoided.

Many of the smaller towns, it is true, combine

the advantages of town and suburban hfe in that

good dwelling-houses may be had with gardens

at fairly moderate rentals. These towns, how-

evfir, are not great centres of activity, and the

foregoing remarks must only apply, of coxirse,

to those cases where paterfamilias has to earn

liis Uvelihood in one of our large towns or

cities.

In many cases, it will be argued on behalf

of the cliildren, that educational faciUties in

towm are so much greater and cheaper than in

the suburbs or in the country. Nowadays, how-

ever, good educational establishments are to be

found everj'\\-horo, and in regard to specialised

subjects such as those included in cormnercial

training, many of the large town estabUshments

have opened branches in most parts of the

country. Then, again, if the suburb has been

selected with due regard to railway facihties,

cheap fares, &c., there is nothing easier than

to let the young people go into town for their

special lessons if necessary. In the selection

of a house, educational facihties for the cliildren

should never be overlooked, and for this reason

it is always better to inquire whether there are

good schools in the neighbourhood.

The same argument must prevail if the house

is selected in some country place. In many

c£ises, apart from all question of low rental, &c.,

the love of paterfamiUas for the country is so

great, that not aU the tedium and discomfort

of the long train journey twice daily will deter

liim from pitching his tent " far from the

madding crowd." If he is prepared to endure

the discomfort, well and good, but the welfare

of the cliildren from the point of view of educa-

tion must be considered, and for this reason

he should take care to be near some good

educational centre, unless the plan of sending

the children to a boarding-school is adopted.

If one decides to pitch one's tent in tho

co'ontry, care should be taken to find out if

there are one or two good reliable medical men

within easy distance. In case of illness, the

fact of having to send two or more miles for

medical aid may at times amount to actual

calamity. Such risks should therefore be

avoided. It is ad\nsable also that the house

should not be too far away from a village where

food and other commodities can be purchased.

The chief drawback to residence in the country

hes in the fact that up-to-date arrangements

in regard to sanitation, water supply, and light-

ing are not always to be found, and although

many charms are to be found in hfe in a country

cottage, there are also in many cases disadvan-

tages which will more than counterbalar .-o these

charms if great care and discrimination are

not exercised in the choice of both locality and

dwelling.

House versus Flat. - The comparative merits

of houses and flats as places of residence will ever

be a debatable subject. There is no doubt,

however, that as regards town life, for people

of moderate means, flats represent the minimum

amount of annual outlay. It is much easier

for a woman to regulate her expenditure when

she knows that the sums she pays yearly for

her flat will cover not only rent, but also rates

THE HOUSE

and taxes. As the latter usually amount to a

third of the rental, this is a most important con-

sideration. Then there is an old saying that

" a large house is a big tliief," and many a

weary householder, harassed at the thought

of high wages claimed by servants, large sums

spent in cleaning and keeping the house in

repair, has proved the truth of this old adage.

With a flat expenditure is kept within easy

bounds ; none of the thousand and one odd

expenses are Uable to crop up in veirious unex-

pected quarters as in the case of a house, and all

the rooms being on one floor, one's housework

is reduced to a minimum, and the amoiint spent

on servants' wages is correspondingly decreased.

There is also the additional advantage of

security, for one feels quite safe when leaving

for the annual holiday in locking up the flat

and placing the key in the care of the doorkeeper.

It can also be locked up during the daytime,

when one wishes to go out, without the necessity

of leaving any one in charge.

On the other hand, a flat nas many disad-

vantages as compared with a complete dwelling-

house. The rooms are small, in many cases

dark, the larder and cellar accommodation poor

- dress cupboards are generally conspicuous by

their absence, and in even the best and most

expensive of flats the servant's room, where

there is one, is little better than a cupboard in

size. Then, again, flats at the lower rentals are

always on the top or second top stories of a

building or else in the basement. In the case

cf the luxurious buildings which are let out in

flats at high rentals a lift will be provided, but

this is seldom the case in regard to the buildings

at which flats are let out at moderate rents. In

the absence of a lift there will be the weary

cUmb up high flights of stone steps before one

can reach one's dwelling, a disadvantage which

does much to counterbalance the advantage of

the rooms being On one floor. But even with

this disadvantage, top floor flats are preferable

to flats in the basement in regard to light and

ventilation.

In a flat it is impossible to maintain the same

degree of privacy as in a house. One's slumbers

are apt to be disturbed in the small hours of

the morning by the efforts of some conscientious

youngster laboriously practising five finger

exercises in the flat below, or else a " musical

evening " in the flat opposite continued far

into the night, though very enjoyable to those

whom it may concern, succeeds in robbing you

of those precious hours of " beauty sleep " wliich

you prize so highly. In case of contagious illness

olso the danger of infection is greater, as isola-

tion is more difficult.

On the whole, there are many things to be

said for and against flat life ; but it may be

taken as a general rule that for the young couple

beginning housekeeping on strictly limited

means, a flat is always best from the point of

view of keeping down expenditure ; whilst in

the case of a family of young children, flat life

is incompatible with comfort owing to the

hmited space available, and the very fact of all

the rooms being on one floor is in these cir-

cimistances a positive disadvantage.

Site and Soil. - Absence of damp is of the

utmost importance to health, and in tliis re-

spect a great deal will depend on the soil upon

which the house is built. A gravel soil or chalk

soil above the water level is best. A clay soil,

being non-porous, retains moisture and should

be avoided.

On the other hand, the position of the site is

an important factor in determining the advantage

or disadvantage of the soil upon which it is built.

Generally speaking, a house should never stand

low : it often happens that a house standing

on high ground, although built on clay soil, is

dryer than a low-lying dwelling situated in a

valley upon gravel soil. Trees are desirable,

if not too near the house, as they aid in drjnng

the soil, certain trees such as eucalyptus, plane,

and poplar being specially useful.

what is known as " made-up ground " is

about the worst soil upon which a house can be

built. The word " made " is true in its actual

sense, for the ground consists of holes and

hollows wliich have been Uterally filled up with

all sorts of rubbish and refuse to make a founda-

tion. The danger of building on such a soil,

which will in many cases be largely composed

of organic matter from which noxious gases

emanate- and force their way upwards, is ob\'ious.

Carefiil inquiry should therefore be made in

regard to this important question of soil before

selecting a dwelling.

Construction. - ^The absence of damp will also

depend to a great extent upon the construction

of the house, proper construction tending to

minimise many of the disadvantages of an

unsuitable soil. Houses built on clay soil should

be well raised above the ground level, and should

possess neither cellars nor basements. Houses

with basements must be very carefully con-

structed with the view of preventing the damp

from rising up the floor and lower walls. The

subsoil should be drained by means of subsoil

drain-pipes, which consist of short earthenware

pipes laid in trenches several feet below the

surface (see p. 4). To prevent dampness rising

through the floor of the basement, the floor

should be built upon a bed of concrete, wliilst to

prevent moisture from rising up the lower walls,

these should not only be constructed upon a

foundation of concrete, but what is known as a

" damp course " should be provided. A " damp

coiorse " consists of an impervious layer of

cement, slate, asphalt, or bitumen, wliich is

placed in the brick-work of the wall above the

ground level, but below the floor. Houses with

basements should always be separated fi-om

the street by an area.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

A great deal of the comfort and well-being

of the inhabitants of a house ^\-ill depend upon

the plan upon which it is built. Houses with

basements alwaj's entail work for servants in

going up and down stairs between the dining-

room and the kitchen. On the other hand, in

bouses where the kitchen and dining-room are

on one floor, care should be taken that the

kitchen is not situated in such close proximity

to the other rooms as to make the smell of

cooking go all over the house. The ideal plan is

to have the kitchen and pantry shut off from

the rest of the rooms on the first floor by a

one of the upper landings in addition to the bath-

room. There should in all cases be a housemaid's

pantry on one of the upper landings in which

she can keep pails and brushes.

Too much stress cannot be laid upon the

necessity of the house being thoroughly dry:

for this reason it is never vrise to take up resi-

dence too soon in a newly-built house, as the

walls are usually damp. Fires should be kept

burning in all the rooms for as long a period as

possible before going into a new house.

A httle wall-peeling and discoloration in the

case of a new house is almost unavoidable, but

nnn.

Illustration showing Concrete Foundation ol a House with Damp Course

and Drainage System.

A, House drain.

B. Concrete foundation.

C. Intercepting trap.

D, N. Gulleys.

F. Dry area.

G, H. Damp proof course.

K. AV.C.

L. Soil pipe.

O. Rainwater pipe.

P. Dath waate-water pipe.

R. Sink.

separate little passage and door, the passage

running between the kitchen and pantry, the

latter being placed at the back of the dining-

room, with a hatch, i.e. a small cupboard like

an aperture in the wall itself opening from

the pantry into the dining-room, through which

dishes may be passed to the servant waiting at

table. WTien not in use, this little cupboard

can be kept closed and will not be noticeable.

A lift from the kitchen to the dining-room whore

there is a basement is a very great help ; but

these are a.s a rule expensive to fit in and are

luxuries not within the reach of the many.

Plenty of cupboards are also desirable, including

a hot-air cupboard for the airing of linen. If

the house is a high one, water should be laid on

if, when looking over a house which has been

built for some time, the paper is seen to be

discoloured, this may be taken as a suio sign

of damp, and the house should be avoided. In

these cases a musty damp smell will almost

invariably be present ; a house of this kind

cannot possibly be healthy, and residence in

damp dwellings is a most proUfic cause of all

kinds of illness. Many a case of chronic rheu-

matism can be traced to residence in a damp

house. Care should also be taken to find out

if the roof is in good condition, as dampness in

the upper rooms may often be traced to some

defect in the roof, lliough for the purpose of

drainage of the soil it is well to have trees

near the house, they must not be too near, as

THE HOUSE

in this case they are liable to make it damp.

Ivy growing up the walls of the house, though

very pretty and decorative in appearance, is

also a cause of damp.

Aspect. - A house should also be carefully

selected in regard to its aspect. Generally

speaking, the front should face south-west or

south-east. The front bedrooms and sitting-

rooms will in this way catch the morning sun,

wliilst the back rooms will have the afternoon

sun. For this reason it is advisable to have as

many bedrooms in the front as possible. The

breakfast-room should also have a sunny aspect ;

where there is no breakfast-room, the dining-

room should be in the front of the house in

order that the cheering influence of the morning

sun may be enjoyed at breakfast, whilst the

drawing-room will do well in a position where

it receives the sunsliine in the afternoon. It is

not advisable, as a rule, to choose a house facing

due north ; the rooms will be dark through

absence of sunlight, and the house will be cold,

requiring a much greater degree of artificial

■warmth in winter to make it habitable than in

the case of a south-west or south-east aspect.

DRAINAGE

A house should not be purchased nor an

agreement for a lease entered into before the

ptirchaser or lessee is satisfied that the drainage

system is in thorough order. To make sure

of this, it is essential to take independent

expert ad\nce upon the subject and to have

the premises examined by a sanitary en-

gineer. FaiUng this, it would be advisable to

insist upon a written guarantee from the vendor

or landlord that the drains have been recently

tested and are in good condition. It is well,

however, to always have an independent opinion,

therefore the former plan is the better of the

two, and by adopting it the intending pur-

chaser or tenant procects himself from becoming

saddled with a house where insanitary con-

ditions prevail.

However well a house may be constructed

in regard to light and ventilation, if the drainage

is wrong, siclcness and disease will invariably

follow, and a Uttle trouble and expense in in-

vestigating this important matter in the first

instance will save no end of trouble and expense

in the long run.

The most usual system of drainage or disposal

of sewage prevaUiiig in towns and almost all but

remote country places is that known as the

" water-carriage system " by wliich all the

sewage is can-ied off underground in pipes called

drains. Tlie following drain-pipes are to be

found in the average house -

The sink pipe for taldng away water from the

sink; the water pipe for taking away the bath

water ; the soil pipe (discharging from the

water-closets), with its ventilating pipe carried

above the roof ; the outer drain pipe for carry-

ing off superfluous water.

These pipes all lead to the house drain which,

in its turn, is connected with the street sewer.

It is not only important that all drains

should be properly constructed, but also that

they be kept in good condition if the house

is to be health}'. To this end they should be

regularly examined and all defects put right

with the least delay possible.

Good drains should be ( 1 ) water-tight ; (2) well

ventilated ; (3) without direct connection be-

tween those carrj^ing sewage and those carry-

ing waste from baths, basins, and the Hke ; (4)

well flushed.

(1) In order to be water-tight, the drain-pipes

are best made of iron, but owing to the expense

this involves they are generally made of earthen-

ware. Long iron pipes with lead joints consti-

tute the most water-tight system invented so far.

The bed in wliich the pipes are laid must not be

Uable to sink, or the joints wiU give, even al-

though firmly cemented. For this purpose, care

must be taken not to sink the original trenches

deeper than is necessary, as any fiUing in with

fresh earth promotes consequent sagging.

(2) The ventilation must be very thorough,

or sewer gas wiU find its way into the house in

spite of the most careful traps to prevent it.

(3) The waste pipes from baths, &c., should

never open directly into the sewer, even although

the connection is guarded by a trap. They

should pour their water into an open receiver or

gully placed outside the house, and the gully

should be connected with the sewer. Then if

any sewer gas escapes from the gully, it will pass

off in the open air without being conducted into

the house. In the case of all pipes connection

with the sewer must be guarded by a trap.

Traps are devised to prevent the escape of

sewer gas from the drain into the house. Many

of the older traps had the drawback that they

allowed filth to accumulate in them. U- or

S-shaped traps are the ones now cliiefly used.

By having it of either shape, whenever the

drain is flushed some water is retained in

the bent part or trap, which then prevents the

passage of gas through this portion of the pipe.

The water used to flush the water-closet should

not come direct from the chief cistern, but from

a special small cistern, the water of which is

never used for drinking purposes. By tliis

means, if sewer gas passes into the small cistern,

it will be absorbed by the water in it with-

out passing on to the chief water-drinking

cistern.

(4) In order that a drain may be well flushed,

not only must an ample supply of water pass

down it, but the drain must be laid at such an

inchne that the flow is sufficiently rapid. It

must be fairly narrow and as straight as possible

for the same reason ; and, again, friction must

be reduced by making the internal surface

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

smooth. By these means the accumulation of

filth IS reduced to a minimum.

Testing the drains is done by plugging the

outlet of tlie suspectod drain at the nearest

manhole and tlien filling it with water from

the nearest water-closot. If a leak is present,

the water soon sinks, and if many leaks are

present, it may not be possible to fill the

drain at all. Suspected leaks may also be

tested by pouring down strong oil of pepper-

mint or assafetida in hot water, whilst a

second person in the room below determines

whetlier the odour escapes or not, but tliis

method is not so thorough as the former

test, thougli more easily performed by the

householder.

Tlie water-closet must bo of such a pattern

that it is always clean and efficiently trapped,

has no direct connection with the drinking-

water cistern, and is flushed by a special

cistern of its own which should hold from

two to tliree gallons. Tlie " wash-out " closet

and the " valve " closet are two of the best

patterns in use at present - a " hopper " closet

is conunonly used, and it is satisfactory if a

short hopper is used, but a long hopper is

to be condemned for its lack of cleanhness.

What is known as the " pan " closet is an

old form of closet which cannot bo too strongly

condemned. Tlie traps should be furnished

with anti-siphonage pipes to prevent them be-

coming unsealed. In well-built houses water-

closets are always separated from the other

portion of the house by a small passage, and

where there are two or three they are placed on

the different landings one above the other. In

properly constructed houses all places where

water is laid on, such as the bath-room, lava-

tories, hou36-maid's sinks, should come one over

the other on the various floors.

The Earth System. - In the country, where a

sufficient water-supply is not always available

for a complete water-borne system of drainage,

what is known as the " Earth " system is the

most sanitary to adopt. In this system earth

is used instead of water in the closet pails, and

the contents of the latter are buried at intervals

in the garden.

The principle of the earth system is founded on

the well-known power possessed by dry earth

of deodorising and disinfecting faecal matter -

a given quantity of earth, if applied in detail to

fresh excrement, destroying all smell and absorb-

ing all noxious vapours. Where sufficient earth

is not available, ashes should be used. Moule's

earth closets are amongst the best-known sanitary

appliances used in connection with this system.

Removal of Refuse. - All the dry refuse of a

house which does not come under the designa-

tion of " sewage," is removed by dustmen in

the employ of the local authorities at regular

intorv'-als. The most sanitary dustbins are made

of zinc. The dustbin should be kept closed to

keep out rain and damp, otherwise the contents

will quickly decompose, and noxious odours will

be the result. It should not be kept too near

the wall of the house, but sliould bo at least sis

feet away from it. Only dry refuse should be

placed in the dustbin. All vegetable matter,

such as potato peirings, &c., should be burnt if

noxious and unsanitary odours are to be avoided.

(See Kitchen Refuse, p. 94.)

WATER-SUPPLY

A pure and abundant water-supply is a

necessity in every house. Care must be taken,

therefore, to flnd out ( 1 ) if the supply is good ;

(2) if it is constant or intermittent; (3) if the

latter, whether the cisterns are adequate for the

storage of the water and Eire in good condition.

In regard to the purity of the water, this

should be ascertained by applying to the county

or borough analyst for an analysis. The usual

fee for this analysis is one guinea. As a rule the

water-supply in large towns is pure. When, as

in country districts, the water is derived from

wells, the utmost precautions should be taken.

All well water should be boiled before use,

as it is very liable to pollution. If a well is

shallow the risk of contamination is often con-

siderable. A well should be deep and have its

sides protected by some waterproof material

to prevent the surface water from entering it.

The best wells are those wliich are driven

tlirough the first impervious stratum so as to

tap the one lying below.

Filters are largely used for purifying water,

but a number of those in domestic use are not

so effective as is generally supposed. Many

stop some of the germs, which then flourish in

the substance of the filter and infect all subse-

quent water that passes through. Hence puri-

fication of the water by boiling is a much safer

method. Among the more reliable filters are

the Pasteur-Chamberland and the Berkefeld.

In the Peisteur-Chamberland filter the water

passes tlirough a thick-walled unglazed earthen-

ware tube, which stops germs. It has been

recommended to clean this by brushing the

outside with a stiff brush ; as, however, the

germs are not only outside but probably also

distributed tlirough the substance of the porce-

lain, to be thoroughly cleansed it should be

boiled or a new tube substituted. All filters

require thorough and constant cleansing if they

are to be effective. A dirty filter will do more

harm than good.

In most towns there is now what is called a

" constant water-supply.'" The constant supply

system renders cisterns for the storage of water

unnecessary, excepting in connection with the

hot-water supply. Where there is what is known

as an " intermittent supply " tlie water is

turned off for a certain time each day. In these

circumstances the intending householder should

THE HOUSE

find out if the cisterns are large enough for the

adequate storage of the water during those

hours in which the supply is cut oS, and also

if the cisterns are clean and in thoroughly good

condition. Cisterns shoxild never under any

circumstances be left uncovered, but should be

provided with a well-fitting Ud. No house

should be taken until it has been ascertained that

all cisterns have been thoroughly cleaned by

the plumber. This cleaning should be repeated

at regular intervals. Tlie cisterns should be

made of galvanised iron. An overflow pipe

should be provided for any overflow of water

that might arise ; tliis pipe should discharge

into the open air and never into a soil pipe or

drain, or pollution of the water by sewage gases

is likely to result. Cisterns from which drinking

Water is drawn shoidd be as far as possible from

water-closets and drains. The simple precaution

of letting the water run a Uttle before drawing it

in the morning for drinking purposes should

always be taken, as it should be remembered

that the water has been stationary in the pipes

all night, and the supply is therefore not so pure

as when constantly drawn from during the

day.

Hot- Water Supply. - ^A good hot-water supply

is a necessity in every household, and a great

deal of the comfort of the house depends upon

this supply being adequate to the demands made

upon it.

In most houses the water is heated by the

kitchen range, at the back of which is a boiler ;

from this hot water is conveyed to the hot-water

tank by means of circulation pipes. The supply

of hot water will depend to a great extent upon

the efiicacy of the kitchen range and the supply

system installed. The two best-known systems

in this connection are the " tank " and the

" Cylinder " system. In the first system a tank

is supphed for storage

of hot water, while

a cyhnder takes the

place of the tank in

connection with the

second system. Before

taking a house, care

should be taken to

ascertain whether the

hot-water system is

in thorough working

order.

Heating Water by

Gas. - There are other

methods, however, of

securing a hot-water

supply independent

of the kitchen-range.

There has been placed

upon the market with-

in recent years an ap-

paratus known as a " Circulator." Tlais is a

small boiler heated by gas which can easilj' be

Hot-water Circulator.

connected to the " flow " and " return " pipes

from the coal-range boiler, and will then with

a quite moderate consumption of gas supply hot

water to the circulating tank, either indepen-

dently of, or in conjunction with, the coal -range

boiler, the working of the latter, in the event

of the kitchen fire being lighted, being in

no way interfered with. These circulators are

specially adapted for use in flats, and in villas

where the length of the circulating pipes are

not abnormal.

In small houses and flats where gas is

used exclusively as fuel, many people obtain

their supply of water for the bath by installing

a geyser in the bath-room for the purpose

of heating the bath water, whilst the water

for kitchen and other purposes is boiled on

the gas stove. Geysers for the purpose can

be hired from all the gas companies. The

geyser, however, does not give a storage of hot

water throughout the house, and does not

therefore fully take the place of the range boiler

as does the circulator. It is a useful accessory

to the bath-room, however, in summer, as hot

water for the bath can be obtained by this

means independently of the kitchen range.

VENTHATION

A supply of fresh pure air is essential to

health, hence it follows that homes shotild

be well ventilated. Good air must be admitted

and bad air expelled. Ventilation is the

renewal of the air contained in a room. Thљ

necessity for such renewal increases with the

number of people occupjnng it, and the number

of lights burning in it. Both lights and people

ahke use up the oxygen of the air and dis-

charge into it a certain amount of carbon-

dioxide ; but the human breath has a more

noxious effect than the flamo of an ordinary

lamp or gas jet, for it emits a certain quantity

of highly poisonous organic matter, and it is

chiefly this which vitiates the air and gives it

the well-known " stuffy " odour.

Every one is aware that air that has been

breathed is warm, and that warm air rises.

Many people think that if a room is sufficiently

lofty the bad air will all accumulate near the

roof and the air near the floor will not be \-itiated

for many hours. This is a gi'eat mistake, for

unless some means of letting out the bad air

is provided, its warmth will soon become lost

and its moisture will condense, causing the

bad air to become heavier than the fresh air,

when it will sink and niingle with the latter

and a vitiated atmosphere will be the result.

As a matter of fact, the bad air rarely rises

liigher than twelve feet before it becomes cool

and descends.

Every room, therefore, that is to be ade-

quately ventilated requires both an inlet for

good and an outlet for bad air.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

To secure the ventilation of a dwelling-room

vre reciuire no ceiling to be higher than

tvpelve feet, but the windows slaould reach

the coiling and be open at the top. A fire-

place should always be present and the chimney

and the cliininey are the two readiest means of

ventilation.

The ventilation should be arranged so that

the fresh air is lot in with its current directed

upwards, and the bad air let out near the

ceiUng. It is an error to ventilate the room

into the passage bj' lea\nng the door open and

the window closed. " Windows were made to

be opened, doors to be shut." Bedroom

■windows, especially, should never be altogether

closed at the top. Care should be taken that

the bed is placed so that the cold air does

not beat down upon the sleeper.

The danger of draughts, however, must be

reckoned with in many cases, and for deUcate

The ninckes-Bird Method

of Ventilation.

people wide-open windows in winter are not

always advisable. In these circumstances a

very simple system of ventilation known as the

Hinckes-Bird method should be adopted. It

consists in raising the lower sash of a window a

few inches, and blocking up the opening with a

piece of boarding as long as the width of the

window and about six inches broad, thus allow-

ing the fresh air to enter the room, but only

between the two sashes, and with an upper

current.

The proper ventilation of a house will depend

to a great extent upon its warming arrange-

ments. Somo grates are constructed so that

the fire burning in them serves to warm the air

before it enters the room. A Galton's grate, fur

instance, has an air-space behind the chimney

communicating below with the outside air and

above with the interior of the room, the heat

of the chimney being in this way used to warm

the incoming air.

A very simple means of ventilating ordinary

dwelling-houses is found in what is known as

the " Sheringham Valve," which is a metal

guard placed aroimd an aperture in the wall,

so arranged as to direct the incoming air upwards

and made to work on a liinge so as to show the

opening when desired.

A Tohin'a Tube is a pipe the lower end of

which communicates through an opening in the

wall with the outside air, whilst tlie upper end

opens into the room about six feet above the

floor.

Among other simple aids to ventilation with-

out draught are the following : -

Perforaled Bricks, communicating with the

room by gratings, wliich servo to break up the

current and thus prevent the draught from

being felt.

Boyle's Valve inserted in the cliimney near

the coihng. Tliis contrivance consists of an

apertiire leading into the chimney with two

talc flaps, forming a valve, which permits the

air of the room to enter the chimney, but

prevents the smoke from entering the room.

Louvre Panes, consisting of slips of glass placed

obliquely in an oblong opening cut in the

window pane. They are commonly used in

shop windows that do not open. The Cooper

rose ventilator is on the same principle.

LIGHTING

The proper lighting of a house is essential

not only from the point of view of the

health, but also for the comfort of its inhabi-

tants. A person is more influenced by his or

her svuToundings than one would think - good

temper and cheeriness come naturally amid

cheerful surroundings, whereas dark, gloomy,

and ill-lighted premises tend to have a most

depressing effect upon even the most optimistic

of individuals.

Good natural light during the daytime may

be secured by a wise choice of aspect (see p. 5).

Stained-glass windows should be avoided in

living rooms. JIany people elect to have the

lower sashes of their dining-rooms, for instance,

of stained glass. The effect may bo imposing,

perhaps, but it is certainly not cheerful, and

grandeur is dearly bought at the expense of the

light and cheeriness of a room. Then, again,

creepers should not be allowed to grow over

the front of the house in such a way as to over-

shadow the windows, nor should the light be

shut out by the too close proximity of trees.

It must bo remembered tliat plenty of light

is essential to our health, and care should be

taken therefore to secure it.

Artlflclal Lighting. - In towns electric light and

gas form the chief artificial illuminants. Gas

is also suppUed in a large number of country

places, but where this is not to bo had, lamps

THE HOUSE

are generally used. In large country houses,

however, air gas is often made from a plant on

the premises.

Electric Light as an illuminant has many

advantages. It is cleanly, hygienic, and con-

venient; and if caxe is taken in regulating its use,

the quarterly electric hght bill may be kept well

within bounds. It is very little trouble to switch

off the hght when one leaves the room, and if this

is done not once in a way, but as a general rule,

a substantial sa-ving on the electric light bill is

the result. Low candle-power lights should be

used in the bedrooms, one or two 7 or 8 candle-

power lamps being usually sufficient for each

room.

Economy may also be exercised by means

of the electric lamps selected. Tantalum

and many of the other metallic filament

lamps, whilst giving a much brighter Ught than

the ordinary incandescent lamps with carbon

filaments, consume much less current than the

latter, and are therefore more economical.

In connection with the installation of an

electric plant for Ughting in country mansions

situated in localities where there is no pubUc

supply, the initial outlay will necessarily be

higher. Where a pubUc supply is available

the only expense will be that of wiring the

premises and purchasing the necessary fixtures.

In most oases the latter may be hired from

the electric hght company by payment of a

fixed sum every year. The cost of electric

hght varies in different towns. In London

it averages from 4d. to 5d. per unit for hght-

ing, whilst for heating purposes the cost is Id.

per unit.

Coal Gas is obtained by the distillation of

coal in large chambers or retorts. The dis-

tillation proceeds for about four hours under a

great heat, and the products are broadly coke,

gas, and coal tar. The gas is then cooled,

washed with water, and treated with slaked

lime to remove impurities.

The large cylindrical vessels so prominent in

all gas works are the gas-holders, from which the

supply issues to the consumers. These holders

rise and sink in a tank of water by their own

weight and the upward pressure of the gas in-

side. The gas is conveyed from the holder by

mains and from the mains to the consumer by

service pipes.

The use of coal gas as an illuminant is almost

universal, and many important improvements in

regard to fittings have been made within recent

years which have increased its usefulness to a

remarkable degree.

IMeters are used to meastu-e the gas consumed,

and it is important that every householder

should know how to read and check the meter.

Gas meters are usually lent on liire to the con-

sumer by the gas company. It is important

that the supply of gas to the burner should be

regulated. Tliis can always be done by means

of a regulator or " governor " on the main pipes

or governor burners.

Incandescent Gas. - This is by far the most

superior and effective method of gas hghting.

It is used in connection with special burners

which admit air to be burned with the gas, a

most brilUant effect being achieved by the

illumination of the wliito mantle which is

used in conjunction with the burner. The

biirner is usually fitted with a by -pass for lower-

ing and raising the light. By means of this

by-pass the gas may be left turned on at the

stop-cock, whilst only the faintest flicker of a

flame is left on the burner. The Veritas and

Welsbach mantles are amongst the best known

and most effective to lase with incandescent

gas.

Amongst the latest improvements in connec-

tion with gas hghting may be classed the

Pneumatic Gas Switch, by means of which

gas can be switched on in the same manner as

electric Ught. With tliis simple apparatus any

number of gas hghts can be switched on or off,

separately or together. It consists of three

parts - a switch, a valve and a coil of small tubing.

The switch turns the gas up or down from any

position or distance. The valve with by-pass

complete screws on to any ordinary gas bracket

or chandeher at the burner, winch is easily done

without tools of any kind, whilst the tube, which

is as small and flexible as a beU wire, conducts

the air pressure from the switch to the valve,

and is attached to the wall or woodwork with

small staples suppUed with the sets. By touch-

ing the switch, air pressm-e is sent through the

fine tube, and the Hght is thus turned either

on or off as desired. One of the special features

of the gas switch is the fact that no batteries

or chemicals of any kind whatever are requii-ed.

It is self-contained and requires no further

attention when fitted. Another advantage to

be found in using tlais switch lies in the fact

that incandescent mantles will be found to last

much longer owing to the fact that the gas

switches on easily ; it does away with the sUght

explosion which always takes place when a

match or taper is apphed when hghting the gas

in the usual way.

Air Gas, - In large country houses where there

is no pubhc gas-supply, air gas is largely used

for lighting purposes. Tliis is manufactured "

from a plant on the promises, and there are many

apparatus for the purpose on the market. One

of the best apparatus for manivfacturing air

gas is that sold by Messrs. W. A. S. Benson and

Co., Ltd., of 82 and 83 New Bond Street, London,

W. It is known as the " Aeos " Gas Apparatus.

Tlie hght given by " Aeos " gas, whilst being

brilliant and pure white, is exceedingly soft and

restful. The apparatus is exceedingly simple,

as the plant is whoUy automatic ; it is £ilso

absolutely safe to use, being non-explosive.

The price for a 25-light apparatus capable

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of supplying 25-26 candle-power burners would

be as follows : -

Apparatus £42 0 0

Pump and Tank 5 10 0

Carriage, including return of emjities,

about 3 10 0

£51 0 0

whilst the cost of installing would be about £1

per point. Once the initial cost of installation

has been borne this gas proves one of the most

economical ilhiminants it is possible to have.

Electric Light, Gas and Oil Fittings.- A great

deal of the beauty of a room depends upon the

choice and position of suitable Ughting fittings.

In the dining-room there should always be

a centre light coming over the dinner-table in

addition to any other bracket hghts necessary.

With electric fittings it is as well to have one or

two lamps to the centre hght which are switched

on by different switches, so that either one or

more of the lamps can be lighted at will. A red

silk shade over the centre light has a most

softening and soothing effect. The metal work

is most effective when of antique copper or

brass.

In the drawing-room which is lighted by

electricity, the centre pendant is of different

design, usually consisting of a number of lights,

each with separate ornamental glass shades.

A high electric standard lamp, with a pretty silk

shade of a light colour to tone with the general

decorative scheme of the room, gives a very

pretty effect, as do small lamps to be placed on

mantelpiece, table, or piano as desired.

The hall should be provided with a hang-

ing centre lamp of lantern design, whilst,

especially in houses built in the Queen Anne

style, a plain old-time iron lantern should be

hung outside the porch.

In the billiard-room the lights over the table

should have plain green shades. In the Ubrary

or study a centre light with one or two small

metal table standard lamps with soft silk shades

should bo provided.

In the bedrooms there should always be a

light in front of the toilet table and one over

the bed, the latter to be turned on by a switch

at the side of the bed.

Pretty soft silk shades

of a light bright colour

to tone with the colour-

ing of the room should

be used ; pale pink and

pale green shades are

very effective.

Gas and Oil Lamps. -

In regard to gas, where

inverted incandescent

burners are used, fit-

tings for centre hghts and bracket hghts may be

very bimilar to those used for electric hght, and

Bray's Inverted Burner.

whore the " switch on " system is installed, the

illusion can be made almost complete.

Meiny of the disadvantages comiected with

the use of oil for house hghting can be minimised

by moans of suitable fittings. Pendant lamps

should be used as much as possible. In the

hall a lantern lamp is most effective. The

dining-room lamp can be provided with a pretty

silk shade, or, whore it is preferred, a plain wliite

glass shade, and can be carried out in wrought

iron metal work or polished brass. (For Care of

Lamps, see p. 77.)

Bracket lamps for hanging on walls are eJso

made in many pretty and effective designs.

Warming the House. - The comfort of the house

will depend not a httle upon the method of

artificial heating adopted during the cold season.

Warming should always be considered in relation

to ventilation as there is a very close connection

between the two.

Rooms may be warmed either by open fire-

pleices, closed stoves (for burning of coal or coke,

g£is and oil), or by hot- water pipes and radiators.

The old-fashioned open grate will always be

popular in EngUsh homes. There is some-

tiling Very cheery and comforting about a

good bright coal fire that is lacking with closed-

in stoves and other methods of heating. It is

true it consumes a large amount of fuel for the

heat it yields, as most of the heat goes up the

cliimney, but it makes the chimney a vtiluable

ventilation shaft, wliich many more economical

grates do not. A great deal of the heat-giving

capacity of a fire will, of course, depend upon

the construction of the grate. Tlie best heating

fire-places have the back and sides of brick and

not of iron, as brick radiates back the heat,

whilst iron lets heat slip through it up the

chimney. The back should loan over the fire,

not away from it. The sUts in the grid that the

coal rests on should be narrow so that cinders

may not fall tlirough and be wasted. Tlie bars

in front of the grate should also be narrow, and

the space beneath the fixe should be closed up

in front by means of an iron sliield. Again, the

grate should be wider in front than at the back.

All these principles of construction are to be

found in the grates devised by Pridgin Teale

and Lionel Teale ; the Teale system, in fact, has

formed the basis of all the latest improvemeats

in fire-grates. Many fire-places are now made

almost entirely of glazed briquette, this mate.-ial

covering both the hearth and fire-place surround.

This is undoubtedly one of the most 8U"tistic as

well as one of the most heat-giving styles of

grate.

An adjustable canopy is in most cases fitted to

the top of modern grates.

Many of the newer types of grate are con-

structed wthout the front bars. Of these the

Wells fire-grates are perhaps the best known.

The " Burkone " patent barlesa fire is another

also of escelleat design ; both grates are so coo-

THE HOUSE

Btrueted as to give the maximum of heat with

a mimimum consumption of fuel.

Stoves. - Closed stoves greatly economise fuel

at the expense of ventilation. They often give

the room a stuffy odour, probably from organic

matter in the air being charred by contact with

the stove, and also from the fact that hot iron

is porous and permits the escape of some of the

gaseous products of combustion tlirough it.

They also tend to make the atmosphere un-

pleasantly dry. This latter defect can be

remedied to a certain extent, however, by

keeping trays of water around the stove. The

ventilating stoves specially constructed to admit

air by means of pipes or tubes are the best kind

to use. Various kinds of fuel are used for burn-

ing in these stoves, chief amongst which are coal,

coke, and anthracite coal.

The last-named is a slow-burning natural coal

wliich has three times the heating power of

ordinary bituminous coal, and is absolutely

smokeless. The fuel is very expensive, costing

about £2 per ton, but as one fire will last for

hours, an anthracite stove will really prove an

economy in the long run. It has been calculated

that the average cost for fuel for twelve hours

continuous biirning will not amount to more

than l^d. Anthracite stoves are best fitted in

front of fire-places. Where there is no fire-place,

it is always necessary that the flue pipe should

be carried to a chimney.

Heating by Gas. - The open gas fires, consisting

of jets of flame distributed amongst lumps of

asbestos and burning in an ordinary grate with

An Anthracite Stove.

the chimney just as open as for a coal fire, form

the healthiest method of heating rooms by gas

in ordinary dwelhng-houses.

The most careful ventilation of the room is

necessary when any means of heating by gas

is employed. Whenever gas is used as fuel,

whether in open fires or stoves, trays of water

should be kept near the fire-place or stove to

prevent excessive drying of the atmosphere.

The convenience of gas fixes as labour-saving

Boudoir Grate.

devices is undoubted, and for bedrooms especi-

ally they form an easy and convenient method

of warming, the fact that they can be turned

oS as soon as the room is sufficiently warmed

adding not a Httle to their usefulness. There

are some people, however, who, although they

quite appreciate the many good points about

gas fires, refrain from adopting them from purely

sentimental motives, the coal fire representing to

them the essence of homehness and cheeriness.

Gas stove manufacturers are quite aware of the

existence of this feeling, and are continually

inventing new devices calculated to render the

gas fire as near as possible in appearance to

the coal fire. In a new gas fire-grate sold by

Messrs. Davis & Sons, aiid known as the

" Boudoir Grate," an almost perfect imitation

of a homely log fire is achieved. In the

" Boudoir " fire imitation logs are fitted ; and

the marked resemblance to the effect of the old-

fashioned wood log fire is so great as to almost

make the illusion complete. Tliis grate, it is

interesting to note, was designed by a woman -

IMiss Helen Eddon, of the Gas Light & Coke

Company, London.

Electric Radiators. - Wliere electric light is laid

on in a house the electric radiator stoves make

very convenient, cleanly, and useful heating

apparatus. They can be switched on and off

at will as in the case of electric light. The

initial cost is small, very good radiators being

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

procurable for an outlay of 35s. and upwards ;

but they have the drawback of consuming a

great amount of current, and for tliis reason,

unless great care and discrimination aro exer-

cised in their use, they are apt to prove expensive.

Oil-Stoves. - Where no other method of

heating is available oil-stoves are very useful,

but at the same time they have many disad-

vantages. From the point of \dew of ventilation

they ai'e not hygienic, as they use up a good

amount of pure air ; and being neeirly always

used in rooms which contain no fire-place

there is no outlet for the fumes which pass into

the room and \'itiate the atmosphere.

Oil-stoves reqvure constant attention in the

way of cleaning and trimming; they have a

tendency to smell unpleasantly, and this ten-

dency is particularly marked when their care

in either of the above respects is neglected.

The prices of these stoves range from three or

four shillings to two and a half guineas. Very

useful Uttle stoves may be purchased for an

outlay of ten to eleven sliillings. The more

expensive varieties are of course the best. They

burn a good deal of oil, however, and for this

reason, if burning constantly, the weekly outlay

on oil for a stove would represent in many in-

stances more than the outlay on coal for a fire.

Hot-Water Pipes. - This system of heating is

mostly restricted to large houses and pubUc

buildings and institutions. The heat is diffused

by means of hot water circulated through

the house by pipes and radiators. The in-

stalling of a hot-water system amounts to a

considerable sxmi in the first instance. The

disadvantage of this heating arrangement Ues

in the i&ci that it is not easy to regulate the

temperature, and a stuffy atmosphere is usually

the result. Very often in large houses a hot-

water system is installed for heating the hall

and landings, whilst the rooms are heated with

fires in the ordinary way. There is no doubt

that many colds and other similar ills may often

be attributed to the fact that people are apt to

overlook the danger of loitering in a cold and

draughty hall after coming out of a warm room.

Some method of heating the hall to make it of

uniform temperature with the rooms is therefore

highly desirable, and no more efficient method

than that of a hot- water system could bo devised

for the purpose.

General Condition of the House. - Before rent-

ing or purchasing a house, careful investigation

should be also made into the general condition

of the premises.

The roofs should be examined by a builder for

any defect that might give rise to damp and

other similar ills ; walls, flooring, and ceihngs

should be looked into for cracks and other im-

perfections. Care should be taken to find out

that doors fit well, opening and shutting easily,

on their hinges ; also that locks are in good

conditirn. Windows should be examined to see

that cords are good, and that they open both

top and bottom ; also that they are properly

fitted with bolts, and that the shutters (if any)

are in working order.

Defects in cliimneys should be looked for;

these are often indicated by discoloration by

smoke of the marble of the mantelpieces. The

kitchen range and boiler should be tested, care

being taken to find out if a good supply of hot

water can be ensm-ed. In some houses it is

only after a regular furnace has been blazing in

the Icitchen grate for some hours that the water

begins to show any signs of warmth ; this points

to some defect in the boiler, and a plumber should

at once be called in to put matters right.

If the kitchen fire-place is of an obsolete type,

the landlord should be asked to put in a modern

range. AH pipes should be attended to and

put in repair.

Care should be taken to see that the principal

rooms are fitted with belLs, and if so, whether

the latter are in good condition. Needless to

say, the house should be thoroughly clean and

in every way fit for the occupation of the in-

coming tenant. The latter must be careful to

ascertain that this is the case, and also that it

is not infested by rats, mice, beetles, or other

vermin of an even more disagreeable kind.

No pains should be spared in attending to all

these matters, and seeing that attention is paid

to everytliing that makes for comfort. The

landlord who wishes to lot a house is a much

better-tempered and amenable person than the

landlord who has actually " caught" his tenant.

Insist on everything being put in order before

you take over the premises. If matters are

allowed to slide a great deal of future expense

will be entailed, more especially where the house

is taken upon a " repairing " lease. The need

for caution before making a purchase is none

the loss imperative, or else the purcheiser will

find that what with the cost of putting the

premises into repair in the first instance and the

amount expended subsequently upon the general

upkeep of the house, he will have made a very

bad bargain indeed.

It should bo remembered that, excepting in the

case of houses let fvu*nished, a landlord is not

bound in law to put the premises in a state of

repair or even into a habitable condition before

the tenantry commences unless he has entered

into an agreemient to do so with the incoming

tenant.

HOUSE DECORATION

Once a house has been taken and all the

necessary cleaning and repairs have been duly

carried out, the important question of decora-

tion will have to be entered into.

Many women look upon the selection of wall-

paper as a tedious task which is best avoided

where possible, and leave the entire scheme of

papering and decoration to the discretion of

THE HOUSE

the landlord, with very often lamentable results.

True, in some instances, the latter may be a

man of taste and may take sufficient pride in

his property to select papers suitable for the

aspect of the various rooms and the purpose

for which they are intended. But such a land-

lord will prove an exception to the general rule.

The idea wliich ranks paramount in the mind

of the average landlord is how to save himself

expense. In these circumstances it may be

taken for granted that if the selection is left to

him his choice will be governed by no other

consideration that that of his pocket.

The policy of leaving the selection of wall-

papers to a landlord is therefore an altogether

fallacious one, and should never be adopted.

If he has arranged to paper and decorate the

premises for the incoming tenant he will be

only too pleased for the latter to make his selec-

tion, provided however that he keeps within

a certain stipvilated sum. If the tenant wishes

to obtain papers of a better quality than those

procurable for the stun allotted, all that he will

have to do wiU be to make up the difference. A

landlord will always consent to an arrangement

of this kind.

It should be ascertained that the walls are

thoroughly dry and clean before the new paper

is put on. The practice of pasting a new paper

over an old one cannot be too highly condemned

from the point of view of cleanliness and sani-

tation. Care should also be taken that the

paper is fixed to the wall with material that

does not turn sour; bad size used for this

purpose is particularly noxious. A great deal

of illness has been traced to the hanging of

wall-papers with bad paste or size. The walls

of newly-built houses should not be properly

papered for six or eight months, as they will

not be thoroughly dry before that time. A

temporary papering should be provided during

this period.

The decorative scheme should be carefully

considered both in regard to the shape, size,

light, and aspect of the various rooms, and also

in regard to the style of furniture which they

will contain. Rooms that are furnished accord-

ing to a special period scheme, for instance,

must bo papered in conformity with the style

of this period. Wall-papers must always act

as a suitable background for the furniture of

a room both in regard to pattern, style, and

colouring, and tliis fact should never be lost

sight of in making a choice. Then, again, the

aspect of a room must influence the choice of

the colour selected ; what are known as warm

colours should not be selected for a room with

a south or south-east aspect, whilst all " cold "

colours should be avoided in the decoration of .

rooms facing north or north-east. Yellow and

red, for instance, are warm coloxors, whilst blue

is what is known as a cold colour. These tliree

colours are known as the " primary " colours.

Any child who has experimented with a bos

of paints will know that blue and yellow mixed

make green, whilst red and blue make purple.

The secondary colours so made may be either

warm or cold colours according to the proportion

in which their primary colours are mixed. In

green, for instance, if the blue preponderates over

the yellow the result is a " cold " colour ; but

many shades of green in which the yellow pre-

ponderates will result in an almost warm colour,

the warmth of the original yellow being judi-

ciously tempered by the admixture of the cold

colour blue. Certain tones of very pale green

should always be avoided, because their colour

is due to an injurious white pigment containing

arsenic. At an inquest held in London a short

time ago on the body of a man it was found that

his death was due to arsenical poisoning from

the cheap green paper on his bedroom wall.

Fires in the bedroom had caused the fliiff fiom

the paper to be distributed over the room, and

as the man was in a weak state of health the

poison germs proved fatal.

Just because some greens are dangerous,

however, it does not follow that green should be

tabooed in house decoration. It is only the

cheap pale cold greens which should be shunned.

Dark green is one of the most useful colo\irs

that can be selected in room decoration, as

most other colours tone or contrast well with

it. Several delicate greens may also be had

which have no injurious ingredients in their

composition.

Dadoes and friezes enter largely into the

scheme of present-day wall-paper decoration,

but their choice must depend upon the size and

height of the room. In small low-ceilinged

rooms dadoes should never be used, as they only

make small rooms look smaller. In regard to

friezes, there is a certain difierence of opinion

amongst furniture experts. Some say that

they should not be used at all in low small

rooms, whilst others maintain that an un-

broken line of wall-paper from floor to ceiling,

far from adding to the apparent height of a

low room, only serves to diminish it, whilst if

the line is broken by means of a narrow frieze,

the eSect is to make the room more loftj'. It

may be said as a general rule, however, that the

striped self-coloured papers are the best to use

in small low-ceilinged rooms, as the stripes

tend to give an impression of height. All papers

with lai'ge patterns should be avoided on the

walls of small rooms, although, if judiciously

chosen, when used in large lofty rooms they are

very eSective. Before choosing a wall-paper it

is always as well to see it in the piece, and to

try the effect of a piece held against the wall

before making the final selection.

One important thing to remember in the

decoration of rooms is that the vaxious de-

corations should not match each other in

monotonous fashion. The colour scheme is

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

always more effective, for instance, when carpets

or table coverings or both form a pleasing

contrast to the wall-papers. Wlaere there is a

pattern on the wall-paper, let the cvirtains be

of absolutely plain material ; never repeat tlie

pattern of a wall-paper in the cliintz of curtains

or chair coverings.

Ceilings should always be in light tones and

cornices should harmonise with the ceiling,

whilst all woodwork, including wall skirting,

insides of doors, and windows, should be painted

in a tint to match the principal tones of the

W£ill-paper - with light delicate papers white

woodwork is always suitable. In bedroonis,

the designs of which should be always light

where possible, light woodwork is also an

advantage.

On the whole it may be said that the absolutely

plain papers are those which form the most

effective background for both pictures and

furniture, proxnding of course that sviitable

colourings are chosen. \Vhere a number of

pictvu-es are to be hung, elaborate designs should

never be used. Papers with dull svu-faces show

off good pictures to the best advantage. Picture

rails OP mouldings from wliich the picttires can be

hung by means of pictvire-hooks should

be included in the decoration of all

the reception rooms. These mouldings

not only f oma an additional ornament

to the room, but do away altogether

with the necessity of adopting the old-

fashioned method of suspending the

pictures from large nails in the wall, a

method which is certainly not conducive to the

long life of the wall- paper.

Different Kinds of Papers. - Amongst the most

effective of present-day wall-papers may be

cltissed the plain silk fibre papers in uniform

tints. These have a softness of siu-face which is

peculiarly pleasing and effective. Pretty friezes

in floral and other designs are sold to match

these papers.

The most pleasing effects with all plain papers,

however, are achieved by means of floral borders,

which are not only utilised as friezes, but are

carried down the walls at certain intervals to

form wide panels. These plain papers with

border effects form the most fashionable de-

signs at the present moment. The silk fibre

papers may be had from Is. 6d. per piece, an

especially good quality being obtainable for

2s. 6d.

The plain ingrain papers are also very effective ;

they have a somewhat rougher surface than the

silk fibre papers, and may be had from Is. 6d.

per piece.

The moir^ papers have a surface resembling

the silk after which they are named, and may

be had from Is. 6d. a piece. They are especially

effective when thrown into reUef by a pretty

frieze or border.

Verj' artistic also are the satin stripe papers.

These are in uniform colourings consisting of

satin-like stripes alternating with stripes of a

duller siu'face. Their effect in pink, blue, and

all the lighter shades is dainty in the extreme ;

wliilst carried out in alternate stripes of white

and silver they make a particularly effective

drawing-room decoration, especially when used

as a backgi-ound for seventeenth-century furni-

ture.

Patterned weJl-papers, where they are pre-

ferred, can be very effective if judiciously selected,

but the principle that large and bold designs

are only suitable for large lofty rooms should

never be lost sight of. Several very pretty

designs may be had in the chintz wall-papers.

Stencilled papers are much more expensive

than the other varieties. They are very hand-

some in effect, but on the whole are more suitable

for the decoration of large public buildings than

for that of private houses.

The plain saniteiry washable papers are

especially useful for nursery decoration when

finished with pretty friezes and borders illus-

trating nursery rhymes, fairy stories, or re-

presenting various farmyard animals or any

other objects calculated to appeal to the

childish mind.

Tiled walls form an ideal decoration for the

bath-room, but these are necessarily expensive

and beyond the reach of the average purse.

A very good substitute for tiles is to be had in

the material known as " Emdeca," which con-

sists of an alloy of tin enamelled and is sold at

prices ranging from 2s. 4d. the piece (16^x22

inches) and upwards. This, however, would

also form a somewhat costly decoration for a

bath-room when regarded from the point of

view of only a moderately filled purse, but it can

be used as a dado, the upper part of the walls

being painted with " muraline " or some other

washable preparation. Emdeca is also very

useful for fixing in sheets at the back of wash-

stands and sinks, its appearance being very

cleanly and dainty.

Painting and Distemper. - The usefulness of

paint in wall decoration must not be over-

looked, especially when quite plain walls are

required. It does not show damp or dirt in

the same degree as plain wall-paper, nor is it

liable to fade when exposed to tho glare of the

sun in a room with a sunny aspect.

Of the various preparations for painting

walls " Ripolin " is one of the most satisfactory.

The Flat Ripolin has a dull velvety surface

which is very soft and pleasing in effect. Ripolin

may be had in any colour. It should be finished

off where possible with a paper border or frieze,

and a dado of lincrusta or other material where

the decoration scheme of the room admits of it.

Sanalene is also an excellent paint for wall

decoration. Ripolin Gloss and Sanalene Glosa

are especially good decorations for nui-series,

bath-rooms, larders, kitchens, &c., as they are

THE HOUSE

washable. Both Ripolin and Sanalene are also

very usefiil for painting the woodwork of a

room. Plain distempered walls can also be

very effective. Hall's Sanitary Washable Dis-

temper is one of the best to use. It is easily

washed when the walls begin to show signs of

dirt., and proves one of the cheapest and most

economical wall decorations it is possible to

have. A pretty paper frieze can be used with

advantage to finish ofi the decoration of dis-

tempered walls.

Dadoes, Panelling and Relief Work. - Dadoes

make a very effective finish to wall decoration,

being especially suited to rooms with lofty

walls. The Japanese leather papers sold at

from 3s. 6d. a yard are often used in dado work.

Lincrusta is another good material which can

be had at prices varying from Is. a yard and

upwards, a very good quality being procurable

for 3s. or 4s. per yard. The brown lin-

crusta is much used for dining-room dadoes.

" Anaglypta " is also a very useful material

both for dadoes and ceiling relief work. It may

be had in all designs and quaUties, is. a yard

representing a good average price for ordinary

purposes, A pretty dado of white anaglj'pta

makes a very graceful finish to drawing-room

walls.

Dadoes should always be finished with orna-

mental mouldings called dado rails. These

serve not only to set them off to advantage, but

also as a protection to the lower part of the

walls from the knocks of chairs and other

furniture.

Wood panelling makes a very effective decora-

tion for dining-room, library, or study where

the rooms are large and lofty. A panelUng is

carried much higher up the waUs than a dado,

a deep frieze being as a rule the only other wall

decoration required. Oak, mahogany, and cedeur

panellings give a most handsome effect. The

cheapest oak panelling is Is. 6d. a foot. Good

English oak may be had from 2s. 3d. a foot,

whilst mahogany panelling may be had from

2s. a foot. Though the initial expense is

necessarily very great, yet from the point of

view of wear wood panellings are unequalled.

They are easy to keep clean, and can be bodily

removed and fitted in other rooms if desired.

Wood panelling enamelled or painted white is

often used in drawing-room decoration. In very

elaborately decorated period drawing-rooms the

wood is often carried up the walls in very narrow

panels, alternating with panels of silk in deHcate

tints. Such an elaborate scheme of decoration,

however, would only be suitable in very large

and luxuriously fvirnished dwellings. Where

white wood panelling is used in the drawing-

room of the average household it is only carried

to the height of a dado. Needless to say, in very

small rooms panelling of any kind would look

altogether out of place. (For Chimney-piece

Decorations, see p. 22.)

COLOUR SCHEMES FOR DIFFERENT

ROOMS

The Dining-Room. - For the decoration of a

dining-room reds, yellows, buffs, dark greens,

and r\isset browns are the colours most often

selected. There is a certain tradition in regard

to the decoration of a dining-room which dies

hard. Everything about the room must be

imposing, hence a rich red is a very favourite

colour. It is, however, not so fashionable for

this purpose as of yore, its use being to a certain

extent superseded by the present vogue for

papers of buff and russet tints, which are now

being used extensively in the dining-room decora-

tion of the most tastefully furnished houses.

The choice of colour must of course be guided

by the aspect of the room - red, yellow, and the

warmer shades being the most suitable where

it has a north-east aspect, whilst cool dark

greens and mauves are ideal colourings for

rooms with sunny aspects. Red and green,

russet and green, and buff, brown and green,

mauve and grey make admirable dining-room

colour schemes. For instance, a dining-room

papered in red might have dark green curtains,

a dark green table-cover, and an Axminster

carpet in which dark green is the prevaiUng

tone, or else one of these many-toned oriental

carpets, the soft tones of which combine so well

with almost any scheme of colouring ; russet-

colo\ired walls would look well with green cur-

tains, green table-cloth, and a warm red carpet-

square over a dark parquet or polished wood

flooring.

A plain pattemless bufi paper thrown into

relief by a rich brown dado woiild make an ex-

ceptionally handsome background for mahogany

furniture and pictures in dark brown frames,

whilst walls papered in soft mauve with a frieze

of silver grey, mauve curtains, a tapestry

carpet-square with a subdued pattern on a

grey ground, and a tapestry table-cover to

tone with the carpet, would set off a dining-

room suite of oak in Queen Anne style.

The Drawing-Room. - The drawing-room is

the room of aU others which lends itself to Ught

and dehcate treatment. The general effects of

the decorative scheme should be one of bright-

ness and cheerfulness, and, above all, of refine-

ment. Dehcate mauves, soft greens, turquoise

blues, white, pinks, are all suitable colours for

wall decoration. The aspect of the room must

of course be considered. Warm soft pinks and

yellows are best for rooms facing north-east,

whilst soft cool greys, blues and greens form

ideal colourings for rooms with sunny aspects.

Wlnte is particularly suitable in small rooms,

as it gives an impression of greater space. As

a background for Adam's or Empire furniture

it is especially effective. Pretty striped papers

in hght colours with floral friezes go well with

Hepplewhite furniture.

THE WOJyiAN'S BOOK

A drawing-room papered or painted in white

would look well with a frieze or floral border of

a pretty shade of blue green with a carpet and

curtains in the same colouring. The entire

woodwork of the room, including mantelpiece,

overmantel, and dado (if anj') would also be

white.

A drawing-room with a north-east eispect

would look well with a pink satin stripe paper

in a soft tone, an art green pile carpet, and

curtains of the same shade of green.

Soft grey wall-paper with a rose-coloured

floral frieze, rose curtains, and rose and grey in

the colour of the carpet would make another

effective colour scheme.

Notliing could bo calculated to set o2 drawing-

room furniture to better advantage than a

light well-pohshed parquet flooring adorned here

and there by one or two choice oriental rugs.

The cost is, however, prohibitive to those who

are not superabundantly supplied with this

world's riches.

Many people who have carpet-squares or rugs

as floor coverings in all the other rooms of the

house prefer a fitted carpet in the drawing-

room. Where square carpets are used " par-

quet " makes the best surround, but this is

necessarily expensive. Failing parquet a good

floor stain should be applied to the surround.

Many good stains are sold to imitate oak, dark

oak, hght oak, walnut, rosewood, satinwood,

and other woods. Both parquet and stained

floorings require to be kept weU polished

(see p. 66).

The Library. - The hbrary should be painted

or papered in sober colours such as brown,

red, tan, and dark green, in keeping with the

dignity of the room. To paper a library in

the pale eu-t shades of blue or green would

be to go against every law of what is fitting

and proper. A good soft Turkey carpet

forms a favourite floor covering for this

room. The shades of Turkey and other oriental

carpets are so skilfully interwoven that they

will tone with almost any colour. Brown walls

and a deep red carpet and curtains are very

effective. All the wood should be in brown.

Oak and other wood panelUngs are largely used

for wall decoration in the libraries of the rich.

They have a very handsome and imposing

effect. Dadoes in dark shades of anaglypta

or hncrusta are very suitable. Red is a

favourite colour in library decoration. Walls

papered in red with brown woodwork, a carpet

in deep tones of green and red, and curtains

to match makes a very effective background.

Breakfast-Room. - The colour treatment of a

breakfast-room will, of course, depend upon its

aspect. In well -planned houses it usually has

a siinny position. A paper with an unobtrusive

rose floral pattern on a white ground would tone

well with an art blue carpet-square. A plain

blue paper with white woodwork, pretty chintz

or cretonne curtains with a pink floral pattern

on a wliite ground, a pretty cord carpet with a

rose pattern on a fawn ground would also be

very suitable.

Bedrooms. - The bedroom papers should be

bright and cheerful-looldng ; never heavy, and,

above aU, intricate designs should bo avoided.

Those are apt to be particularly irritating to an

invaUd who is forced to spend a number of days

in bod, and worrying over the intricacies of a

wall-paper can at times have an ahnost madden-

ing effect upon a person so situated. As illness

is a factor which will have to be reckoned with

in almost every household, let the bedroom

paper be bright yet restful in design { in fact,

noticing can be better than an absolutely plain

wall-paper. Washable distemper also forms

an admirable decoration, and can be had

in all the best and most artistic shades.

Distempered walls, however, should always

be finished off with a pretty frieze. A plain

white paper or distemper, with a pretty floral

border of roses to form a panelled effect, would

go well with a green art square carpet, rose

curtains, and ivory-white woodwork : soft blue

paper would tone well with a pretty tapestry

carpet with a rose design on a fawn ground,

whilst pretty white and rose chintz curtains

would complete the colour scheme. White

papers with pretty floral friezes and borders to

tone with the rest of the decorative scheme form

the most characteristic feature of present-day

bedroom decoration ; a plain white paper with

a very deep wisteria frieze is especially effective

and would look well with a mauve carpet and

mauve curtains.

The Hall. - ^It is a mistake to think that

gloomy colouring is essential to the decoration

of a hall - so much depends upon whether it is

a bright hall or a dark one. Plain papers or

distemper are as a rule the best to use unless the

hall is a very lofty one. Warm shades of red and

terra-ootta are very suitable, or green where the

hall is a particularly bright one. White dadoes,

friezes, and woodwork will go a long way towards

brightening up a dark hall. Very deep friezes

can be losed with good effect. A rich pile caxpet

to tone with the stair carpet and laid over lino-

leum is a very effective floor covering. Wh en the

hall is separated from the outer door by a small

vestibule, the door of tho latter should be Jraped

with curtains to tone with the rest of the

colour scheme. Wlicre hnoleum is used as floor

covering it should be of a simple pai-quetry

pattern. Any vakicd trophies, such as swords,

other armour, fox brushes, &c., &c., form most

suitable decorations for the walls of a hall.

FURNISHING THE HOME

The choice of furniture for the home should

not be undertaken lightly. It is a matter which

calls for the exercise of much discrimination

THE HOUSE

and forethought, careful consideration of ways

and means, and, above all, much ingenuity in

cutting one's coat according to one's cloth, and at

the same time getting the best possible value for

money expended.

The requirements of the different rooms in

the house should first be carefully studied, and

a list made out of every piece of furniture

necessary for each separate room, including

carpet, fire-irons, window-curtains, curtain rods,

blinds, &c.

It may take some time to make out a thor-

oughly comprehensive list, but it will prove to

be time well expended. To go to a furniture

shop with only a vague idea of the general wants

of the different rooms is to court disaster at the

outset. Money which should have been ex-

pended upon essentials goes to purchase articles

which may be ornamental, it is true, but which

are totally unnecessary for use, whilst the im-

portant essentials that make for comfort are

either overlooked, or else remembered too late.

It is most important, therefore, to set about

buying furniture in a business-like way. Lack of

method in buying will inevitably result in chaos,

and the shopping for the home, instead of being

a pleasure, as it should be if undertaken in the

proper spirit, will prove a positive ordeal for

the unfortunate shoppers.

Many people who have only a very small sum

to spend upon furnitxire make the mistake of

taking little interest in their shopping, resigning

themselves to the purchase of anything, no matter

how ugly, so long as it is cheap. Never was

there a greater fallacy. Good taste should be

the guiding spirit in the furnishing of the home,

and good taste goes a great deal further than

mere money in this respect. Tlie most beautiful

homes are not necessarily those which have been

furnished without any regard to cost ; rather are

they those upon which care and trouble have

been expended in making a judicious and taste-

ful selection.

A woman of refinement and taste will make a

room in which the furnitiire largely consists of

the results of her own handiwork and skiU look

better and much more desirable than the room

of the woman with unlimited wealth at her

command, who does not possess the necessary

taste to guide her in steering clear of mere

vulgar display. Money is a most important

factor in the furnishing of a home, it is true,

but a very little money can be made to go a long

way if only a httle trouble and care are exercised

in the spending of it. A great deal, of course,

will depend upon the resourcefulness of the

young couple. Some men, for instance, have a

taste for carpentering and carving, then how

can this taste be more satisfactorily employed

than in the furnishing of the home ? Pretty

shelves and book-cases and even tables can be

made in this way at a very trifling cost. Ordinary

orange or soap boxes can be turned into wall

brackets, boot cupboards, and even book-cases.

Cosy window-seats and pretty ottomans can be

turned out by the home upholsterer and car-

penter at a trifling cost. It is wonderful what

can be done with a few yards of chintz and a

Uberal supply of enamel. Dainty hangings for

impromptu curtain cupboards, wall draperies

to hide ugly corners, cushions and window-

curtains can be fashioned from the chintz by

deft and skiJful fingers, whilst ordinary deal

tables and shelves may be converted into very

dainty pieces of furniture indeed by means of

a good coating of enamel well applied. As a

general rule, the homes which require the

exercise of so much care, ingenuity, and abiUty

to make a sura of money go a long way in the

furnishing are those that give the most real

satisfaction to their occupants, and what

greater pleastire can there be than in the realisa-

tion of the fact that the httle pinchings and

contrivings have brought their reward. The

young wife who hears a friend congratulate

her on the appearance of a pretty rug which

she has fashioned from a piece of carpet bought

as a traveller's sample for a few sliillings at

a furniture shop, will experience a much more

genuine thrill of pleasure than will her richer

sister who is complimented upon any article of

furniture upon the purchase of which she has

not expended a single thought.

It should be every woman's aim, therefore,

however small a sum she may have to invest

on the purchase of fxirniture, to see that it is

expended to the best advantage, both from the

point of view of taste and also from that of

suitabihty and wear. Do not aim at handsome

effects which cannot be achieved with the

small sum at your command; cheap imitations

should also be shunned. Let what you have be

good of its kind. It is better to buy one or two

really good pieces of simple and unpretentious

fixrniture and add to them by degrees, than to

buy a quantity of cheap imitation which will

be shabby in a year.

A good deal of furniture is sold upon the hire

system nowadays ; that is to say, that, after the

payment of a certain stipulated small sum as a

deposit by the purchaser the furnitiu?e is de-

livered at his premises, and is paid for in monthly

instalments until the pm-chase is complete.

When a hire contract is entered into with a

good and reliable firm the transaction often

proves satisfactory, and for people who have

not the command of a sum of ready money,

however small, with which to buy their furni-

ture it is a most convenient method, but

in many other respects the liire system is

open to objection. To begin with, it will mean

a great strain upon the income of the young

husband during the years in which he is fii'st

beginning to reahse his added responsibihties,

a strain which is apt to become a veritable

burden in the case of those ups and downs of

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

fortune to which every one more or less is

liable. Should any reverse of fortune occur

owing to which for a time he is obliged to sus-

pend his payments, he is confronted with the

probability of ha\'ing the furnitvire taken away,

even though he should have paid off all but the

leist few instalments. Again, when a person

heis a fixed sum to spend, he knows he must

keep within its Mmits, whereas when it is a

question of payment by degrees he often ends

by buying more than he can tifford. As a

matter of principle, therefore, from the point

of view of the young couple who axe just

starting upon the management of a home, the

hire system has much in its disfavour, and,

how3ver small the sum available, it is better

to paj' outright for the furniture, beginning

married life clear of the money responsibiUties

which would be otherwise involved. One can

always begin in a small way, launching out

fiu-ther as the savings accumulate or the income

increases.

A small flat with two bedrooms, a sitting-room,

bath-room, and a kitchen can be very well

fiimished for £50, and much less than that if the

young couple are adept at contriving in the way

already described.

Young engaged couples who have to set about

choosing furniture for their new home would do

well to get some assistance in drawing up a

list of their requirements. Knowledge of the

ins and outs of furnishing is best attained by

experience, and for this reason the bride's

mother will often be able to make many useful

suggestions.

Having made out their list it must next be

their aim to divide up the sum to be spent

upon the various rooms in suitable proportions.

For this they will have to acquire some know-

ledge of the prices of the various articles, and

for information in regard to this point they

cannot do better than send for the catalogues

of one or two of the best furnishing firms.

Furniture catalogues in these enlightened days

are not only true objects of art in regard to

illustrations, but they usually contain all

possible information in regard to the question

of furniture, which makes it exceptionally easy

for the buyer to make a suitable selection.

Comprehensive lists axe drawn up containing

details in regard to each article necessary in

furnishing the home from the table in the dining-

room to the saucepans in the kitchen, and all

the prices are marked in plain figures.

In ewldition, people are advised as to how to

spend certain sums of money on their furniture

to the best advantage. Nearly every furniture

list contains schemes for furnishing flats and

houses for sruns varying from £50 to £500 and

upwards. These schemes are drawn up especi-

ally for the use of people of average means who

have a certain sum to spend and must keep

■within its limits.

Furthermore, all the large firms show model

houses on their premises completely furnished

in accordance with the details in their cata-

logues. A visit to any of these model houses is

an education in itself, and nothing is calculated

to be of greater assistance in giving reUable

guidance to the shopper as to how her money

may be spent. The model dwellings are com-

pletely furnished in every detail, and in each

room a list is usually hung up in some promi-

nent position giving full particulars in regard

to every piece of furniture necessary with the

price of each separate article. The decorative

scheme is complete, including fire-place and

fire-irons, window drapery, curtains and wall

paper, though the estimate in most cases does

not include the latter. A careful study of

these rooms both in regard to the colour

scheme and also to the arrangement of their

actual contents cannot fail to be a useful guide

to any purchaser as to her requirements.

Not only one but three or four furniture show-

rooms should be visited. The shopper can have

no better opportunity of studying really practi-

cal furniture schemes, and even though she

cannot afford to purchase furniture of the kind

so displayed, she will gain many helpful ideas

in planning out her own httle furniture scheme

according to the limitations of her purse. (See

Maples' Ninety Guinea Flat, p. 35.)

FLOORING AND FLOOR COVERINGS

Parquetry. - It should be ascertained that

the floors are well levelled, smooth, and free from

cracks and holes before laying down carpets.

Plasticity and elasticity are very necessary

attributes to all good flooring. It should also

have a good surface capable of easy polish.

Particularly where the floor, or at any rate the

borders of the floors, axe stained and poUshed

is the last quality necessary. Parquetry is the

ideal flooring for hall and reception rooms, but

its cost is very great, and for this reason it is a

luxury to be enjoyed only by the favoured few.

The cost of laying parquetry flooring in a

moderately sized square hall of the kind so often

seen in modern houses and flats might in many

instances be met by economies practised in the

general fvirnishing of the rooms. The first

impressions gained of the interior of the house

upon entering the hall goes a long way to help

the visitor to form an opinion of the whole,

and for this reason the question of hall decora-

tion should never be relegated to the back-

ground when the decorative scheme is planned.

Where paxquetry is used for the entire flooring

it should be of the best. The thin makes are,

however, quite effective as surrounds for

central carpets. They can be purchased at

prices ranging from 3d. per foot and upwards.

Carpets. - Tlie choice of carpets for a house

must first of all depend upon the sum of money

THE HOUSE

to be allotted to their purchase. This should

not amoiuit to more than one-sixth of the sum

allowed for furnishing. Where a house or flat

has to be furnished for £90 to £100, for instance,

not more than £15 should be spent on carpets,

whereas out of a sum of £200 for furniture,

the outlay on carpets should not be more than

£30.

It requires the exercise of no little forethought

to make a small sum of money go a long way

in the purchase of floor coverings. First and

foremost cheap showy carpets should be avoided.

One cannot expect good wear out of a very cheap

carpet. It will very soon become faded and

shabby looking, and nothing tends more to spoil

the appearance of a room than a shabby carpet.

For those with hmited purses there can be no

more economical and, at the same time, more

diirable floor coverings than plain felts and

linoleums.

Felts are now largely used as entire fitted

floor carpets. They wear much better, and are

much more eflPective in every way than the

cheaper varieties of carpets, for whereas the

latter are very seldom obtainable in really

good colourings, the plain felts are to be had in

all the best art shades and are most soft and

harmonious in effect. They lend themselves

admirably to the soft subdued colour schemes

now so greatly in vogue, and act as a very

effective background to furniture. When felt

is used as a floor covering there should always

be in addition one or two pretty rugs scattered

here and there about the room. Felt is also

largely used as a surround for a square carpet,

many people preferring it to Hnoleum owing to

the fact that it gives the room an appearance of

greater warmth in winter. Oriental rugs show

up especially well upon a plain felt carpet.

Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster rugs are

also very effective. Many a bargain in rugs

may be picked up at the annual sales of

any large furniture establishment. In many

cases the large furnishing firms and carpet

manufactxirers sell what axe known as

" traveller's samples " of carpet. These run at

times into lengths of a j'ard and over. They

only require to be finished off with a little gallon,

and very pretty and handsome rugs are thus

made at the cost of a few shillings. Pieces of

the very best Brussels, Axminster, and other

well-known makes may be had in this way,

and when the buyer is able to make a good

selection, she will find that she has a much

better rug than it would have been possible for

her to procvire when buying in the ordinary

way.

Carpets wear much longer if an underlay is

provided to keep them from direct contact with

the floor. Plain grey felt is admirable for the

purpose, and serves not only to preserve the

carpet, but also to make it softer to the tread.

A good underfelt may be had from Is. to

Is. 4^d. per yard running from 46 to 54 inches

in width. Bro-wn paper also makes a very good

underlay, and may be purchased for 2d. a yard.

What is known as felt paper is also suitable and

costs 3d. per yard. A species of coarse canvas

is also used for putting under carpet and may be

purcheised for 4^d. a yard.

Art square carpets as a rule do not require

fastening to the floor, as the heavy

furniture of a room would keep them

in place. Heavy rich pile carpets, how-

ever, require to be fastened here and

there. The most handy fastening for a

square carpet consists of a patent brass

nail which fixes into a groove of the

same metaL The groove is screwed into

the floor, a hole being drilled into the

latter to receive it. The carpet can

thus be lifted when necessary with very Patent

little trouble, the nails coming easily out Carpet

of the grooves when it is pulled gently

upwards (see illustration).

Measuring Rooms for Carpets. - Most carpet

manufacturers send representatives to take the

measurements of their customers' rooms for

carpets, but long distances and various other

circumstances sometimes make it impossible

BAY WINDOW

Plan showing Method of Measuring Room

for Carpet.

for them to do so. The diagram here given

shows how a room should be measured

for carpet and surround. When ordering

carpets a similar plan should be sent showing

position of windows, doors, and fire-place, and

giving the measurements in feet and inches.

The dimensions should be accurately taken,

though the plan need not be drawn to scale ;

carpets of any kind can be made up from such a

drawing.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Different Kinds of Carpets. - For good wear,

artistic coloviring, and handsome appearance

generally the various oriental carpets are un-

equalled. Tliey are hand-made and the design

and colouring ai'e so skilfully interwoven that

they will be found to tone well with almost any

colour scheme. Skill in designing is almost a

tradition with the peasants of the East, for the

various designs are handed down from father

to son, and are woven from memory, the keen

eye for designing and colouring being thus an

hereditary gift.

The carpets are sold in the eastern bazaars.

Jlost large carpet -dealers in Europe have agents

in the various well-known centres of the carpet

industry who are entrusted with the purchase

of carpets on behalf of their firm. Turkey

carpets are very rich and handsome in appear-

ance. Tlioy are favourite carpets for the dining-

room, library, or study. The Anatolian Tvirkey

carpets are particularly noted for their delicate

colourings, especially in the lighter shades

suitable for drawing-room carpets. Persian

carpets have a particularly viaried range of

colouring from the handsome rich tints suitable

for dining-room and study, to the soft delicate

tints for drawing-room use. They are also

durable, being very close in texture. Indian

carpets are lower in quality and consequently

less expensive than most other oriental carpets.

The patterns are worked on various light

grounds for drawing-room wear and also

darker grounds suitable for dining-room and

library. The cheapest varieties should not be

chosen as they do not wear well. The better

qualities are, however, very satisfactory, as the

pile of these is close and deep and the colouring

light and harmonious.

Brussels Carpets seem to retain a perennial

hold upon the public favour. They make very

beautiful and durable floor coverings, but a

fair price should always be paid for them. In-

crease of competition in the carpet trade has

induced many manufacturers to place very

cheap carpets upon the market, advertising

them as " Best Brussels " and quoting very low

prices for them. It is impossible to obtain a

good " Brussels " at a low price ; 4s. 9d. a yard

represents a good average figure for best

Brussels carpets, and as a general rule not loss

than 33. 9d. a yard should be paid if a really

good quality carpet is desired. The pattern

of a Brussels carpet always shows through on

the wrong side. The carpets are made by

•weaving thread through a canvas over wires,

the latter being withdrawn after the carpet ia

woven, leaving the loops which form the pile of

the carpet. A good quality Brussels carpet

can always be judged by the length of the loops

or pile. These carpets may bo bought by the

yard or in seamless woven squares.

Axmlnster. - The real hand-made Axminster

carpoi3 make luxurious and therefore costly

floor coverings. Tliey take their name from

the town of Axminster in Devonshire where

they were first made. They have a rich deep

pile and are woven in the most beautiful designs

and colourings. More within the reach of the

average purse are the machine-made Axminster

Pile Carpets. These are to bo had in many

qualities and in a great variety of colourings -

in light tones sxiitablo for di'awing-room use,

and in the deeper colourings suitable for dining-

room and library, and may be pm-chased for

from 4s. 6d. per yard. Tlie patent Axminster

and the Crompton Axminster are the best of

the maoliine-made varieties.

Wilton Carpets. - The Wilton carpets are

noted for theu* soft appearance and plush-like

surface. Tliey are closer in texture, though

shorter in pile than the Axminster carpets.

They are made in a very similar manner to

Brussels carpets with the exception that the

wires are not taken away until the loops are

cut. They are made in a variety of designs

and colourings, the design in self colours being

especially beautiful. Wilton carpets may be

purchased by the yard or in seamless woven

squares.

Kidderminster Carpets. - These are reversible

carpets without pile. They are mostly suitable

for bedrooms. It is never advisable, however,

to use them as fitted carpets, as the dirt gets

very quickly through the carpet to the floor,

remaining there in thick layers if the carpet is

not frequently lifted. Kidderminster squares,

with linoleum surrounds, are the best to use.

Seamless Edderminster squares are now sold

under a great many different names, each

manufacturer having his own name for his

special make of carpet. The carpets known as

" Roman Squares " are well-known varieties of

the Kidderminsters, as also are the Cheviot and

Shetland squares.

Tapestry Carpets are not unlike Brussels in

appearance, but the pattern does not show

through on the wrong side. They are inex-

pensive, and may be had in many pretty designs,

but are not suitable for hard wear.

Velvet Pile Carpets. - Many varieties of velvet

pile carpets are manufactured in imitation of

Wilton carpets. They are inexpensive, but un-

suitable for hard wear.

Stair Carpets. - Stair carpets reqviire to be

very carefully laid over undorfelt or stair-pads.

A sufficient quantity should be bought to

ensure an extra half yard for each flight of

stairs. This will allow for a periodical shifting

of the carpets at the treads about four times

a year so that the Wear is evenly distributed,

the extra half yard being always kept neatly

folded under the last tread of each flight or

under the carpet on the landing. The carpets

will be found to wear much longer if this simple

precaution is taken.

It is always advisable if a saving can bo

THE HOUSE

effected elsewhere to spend a little more money

on stair carpets and to have them of as good

a quality as possible. They are subjected to an

enormous amount of wear and tear, and the

very cheap kinds will soon become shabby

looking. , Good pile carpets are the best for

wear, Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster stair

carpets being very effective. Tapestry carpets

are also smtable and may be had at moderate

prices.

Plain felt in one of the art shades makes a

very effective and economical stair covering

especia^y suitable for a house furnished in soft

subdued tones.

Those to whom an inexpensive carpet is a

sine qud non cannot do better than try the

cord stair carpets sold by the Abingdon Carpet

Co., of Thames WTiarf, Abingdon, which are

both cheap and durable.

Stair Rods for keeping the carpet in place on

each tread are indispensable to the staircase

eqtiipment. They are usually of brass and fit

Stair Eod aud Eyelets.

into specially made eyelets. The thin round

rods are the least expensive ; the price varies

wth the degree of their thickness. The flat

sexagonal brass rods are the most handsome,

and add not a little to the appearance of a well-

carpeted staircase.

LINOLEUMS

The inlaid linoleums are the best, as their

colourings and designs are so worked into the

materials that they cannot wear off or be

obUterated. One of the best of the inlaid

linoleums is that known as " Greenwich

Linoleum." " Duroleum " is also very good

and durable.

The entire hall can be covered to advantage

with Greenwich hnoleum or duroleum. The

pattern should be very judiciously selected.

Needless to say, floral patterns are quite out of

place, the most suitable being the simple geo-

metrical patterns in imitation of tiles or par-

quetry. Linoleum requires to be very care-

fully laid and should be pasted to the floor

with the edges of each breadth fastened by a

few headless brads.

In many houses linoleum is largely used instead

of carpets in all the bedrooms. It is certainly

the most hygienic floor covering for a bedroom,

as it does not accumulate dust and can be easily

swept and washed, and it is at the same time

the least expensive. In bedrooms carpeted with

Hnoleum rugs are usually placed at either side

of the bed and in front of the toilet table.

Twelve square yeirds will be required to carpet

a room 12 feet by 9 feet. The outlay will

therefore be most moderate, and to those with

inelastic purses this is a very important con-

sideration.

Linoleum is also a suitable floor covering for

bath-rooms and niurseries. Cork carpet is also

largely used for these rooms. It has the ad-

vantage of being noiseless to the tread, and in

the opinion of many has a wairmer appearance

than hnoleima. It may be had at 2s. 2d. per

yard, the shades in dark green and dark blue

being particularly effective.

CURTAINS AND BUNDS

The decorative effect of a room can be made

or marred by the selection of its ciurtains in

regard to material, colour, and suitabihty to

the various rooms in which they are placed.

In dining-room and Ubrary, for instance.

Portiere CurtainB.

there shovdd always be curtains of tapestry,

chenille, velvet, serge, or other similar materials.

In the drawing-room curtains of dainty materials

such as lace or silk and the various art linens

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

are most appropriate, whilst light chintz,

cretonne, lace, musUn, and all other Ught

■washable curtains are suitable for the bedrooms.

The cornice poles from which the curtains

are to be hung must also be suitably chosen.

These will form an item in the general cost of

window decoration which should not be over-

looked. Ninepence per foot represents an

average price for a brass pole one inch in

diameter. For brass poles three inches in

diameter 3s. 3d. per foot would represent a fair

price. White enamelled cornice poles are

suitable for drawing-room and other brightlj'

furnished rooms and are cheaper than the

brass ones. Mahogany poles three inches in

diameter suitable for dining-room and study

maj' be had for Is. per foot. For bay windows

Casement Curtains.

the prices are higher. Rings to match these

poles are sold at prices also varying with their

sizes.

Portiere curtains are often hung over doors,

both for decorative purposes and the exclusion

of draughts. They should bo of materials such

as chenille, velvet, silk, or serge, and should be

hung by means of rings to a rod across which

they can easily be drawn backwards and for-

wards. Where there are curtain cupboards in

the bedrooms, the hangings should always be of

cretonne, linen, or other firm washable material

substantial enough to keep out the dust.

Casement Curtains, are now largely used

instead of the ordinary roller blind, so casement

blinds would be tlio more correct name to give

them. They present a very pretty and decora-

tive appearance and look best with casement

windows, but can also bo used with sash windows.

In th" latter case there must always be separate

bUnds for both upper and lower sash. The

casement cuilains (or bUnds) only reach to the

window sills, and the ordinary side curtains

are used with them. Cretonne, cliintz, case-

ment cloths, silk and Bolton sheeting are the

best materials for these blinds. The selection of

both material and coloiu* will of course depend

upon the decoration aiid upholstery of the room

in which they are used.

Arrangement of Curtains. - Much may be done

to improve an ugly-looking window by the

manner in which the curtains are arranged.

A very narrow straight window may be made

to look wider by extending the cornice pole a

few inches beyond the window on each side.

From this the curtains should hang straight

without being looped up in any way. When

two or three very narrow little windows come

close to each other a top valance can be made

to include them as one wide window. From

either side should hang ciirtains of the same

material as the valance, whilst lace casement

curtains hung over the divisions of the other

windows would serve to complete the one

window illusion, giving a pretty casement effect

to the whole. The casement window lends

itself more readily than any other to decorative

treatment. Special fabrics are sold by all

fiu"niture dealers for this favourite type of

window. In this connection it is interesting

to note the great revival in old-fashioned

fabrics including the actual repetition of the

patterns of the quaint chintzes and printed

hnens which were in vogue dviring the seven-

teenth and eighteenth centuries.

The alcoved casement window is always the

most effective. Pretty casement curtains in

two tiers can adorn the windows, whilst the

broad recess may be occupied by a quaint old-

world window-seat of the same material as the

cm-tains and valance by which the alcove

is enclosed.

Blinds. - Venetian blinds, if of good qualitj',

are always suitable and useful as tlie laths can

be easily cleaned. Their use has to a great

extent been superseded however by the more

ornamental linen or holland blinds trimmed

with lace edging and insertion and working on

spring rollers. Very good quality blinds may

be had for eight or nine shillings each, the cost

of the roller depending upon the particular

patent used. Inexpensive linen blinds suitable

for bedrooms may be had for about four shillings.

With most firms the prices quoted for the blinds

include both the measuring and fitting. Blind

materials are also sold by the yard for people

who prefer to make and fix their blinds them-

selves. Furniture firms usually send pattern

books of these materials when applied for, giving

the price per yard and also the price of the whole

blinds including making and fixing.

Mantelpiece Decoration. - The decoration of

the mantelpiece and its surroundings must con-

THE HOUSE

form with the general decorative scheme of the

room. Period furnishing reqxiires that the

cliimney-piece decoration should have a special

treatment, and its decoration should therefore

be placed in the hands of the firm which is

supplying the rest of the fiirniture.

The ugly gilt-edged mirror which formed the

conventional chimney-piece decoration of the

time of our grandmothers is now mercifully

buried in obli\don. Artistic wooden chimney-

pieces and overmantles combined now form part

of the decorative equipment of most tastefully

furnished hoiises. These are constructed of

mahogany and oak or in other dark woodwork

for dining-room and library, and in wood

painted white for drawing-room and morning-

room. The mantelpieces of bedrooms do not

require the elaborate treatment given to those

Illustration showing Artistic Chimney-piece

and Club Curb.

of the reception rooms. Either a picture or

a small overmantle may be placed over the

chimney-piece of the latter, and where the

woodwork is carried up over the mantelpiece

it is only carried up to a very small height.

Where there ai'e no fitted overmantles in

connection with the chimney-pieces of the

reception rooms the latter must be bought

separately. Very pretty overmantles may be

purchased in oak, walnut, mahogany, and wood

painted white.

Mantelpiece drapery is seldom seen now, but

at times it is absolutely necessary to hide an

ugly chimney-piece. In these circumstances

the material used should be as light and graceful

in appearance as possible. Pretty liberty silks

and satins in the delicate art shades make most

effective draperies.

Tiled hearths and marble fenders are much

favoured in present-day house decoration.

Brass and steel fenders should always be kept

Fire-irons.

well polished. A very ornamental type of

fender is that known as the " Club Curb." This

consists of plain brass or iron rails which reach,

at times to a height of two feet and

which are surmounted by an uphol-

stered seat, usually of morocco.

Sometimes the upholstery goes all

round the top of the curb, but more

usually the seats are only at the sides

and corners. A pair of fire-dogs

and the necessary fire-irons, i.e.

shovel, poker, and tongs, should

form part of the equipment of the

fire-place. Very useful for morning-

room, study, and bedrooms are the

little combination set of fia-e-irons

now sold, which fit on to a speci-

ally constructed stand. These are

inexpensive to buy and look very

well. As the stand is of a good

height the fire-irons can easily be taken from it

without having to stoop as in the case of thљ

ordinary fire-dogs.

FURNISHING THE VARIOUS ROOMS

The Dra wing-Room. - This is essentially the

domain of the house mistress, and it is stamped

as it Were with her own individuality. The

woman of refinement and taste makes her

personahty felt not only in the general furniture

scheme of the room, but in the many dainty

Uttle finishing touches without which there

always seems to be something lacking in even

the best furnished drawing-rooms. This some-

thing is invariably absent from the drawing-

room of the wealthy uncultured woman, who,

though she may have had the good sense to

give carte blanche to a reUable furniture dealer

in regard to the choice of furniture, yet fails

utterly in imparting that atmosphere of refine-

ment conveyed by the subtle touch in the arrange-

ment of details which is always characteristic

of the drawing-room of the gentlewoman, how-

ever poorly furnished it may be.

All stiffness and awkwardmess of arrangement

in drawing-room furniture should be avoided.

There should be an air of daintiness and grace

and at the same time of cosiness about the

room. The drawing-room of to-day is not a

room for show but a room for use. It is no

longer thrown open on strictly state occasions,

nor are children nowadays trained to look upon

it as a sort of Bluebeard's chamber only to be

entered upon occasions when both Sunday frocks

and Sunday manners must be domied and the

maxim " Little children may be seen, but not

heard," most rigorously observed. Tliere are

still some middle-clfiss people who keep their

drawing-room as a show-room, only using it on

" At Home " days and for other similar functions ;

but such rooms always wear an air of stiffness

and lack of comfort wliich is often reflected in

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the manner of the house mistress upon the rare

occasions when she is called upon to sit in it in

state to do honour to her guests.

Pretty occasional tables and daintily up-

holstered tapestry settees, one or two cosy

tapestry easy-chairs, a tea-table, a d^a^ving-

room cabinet, an escritoire, and a piano should

be present in every well-furnished drawing-room,

to say nothing of such ornamental accessories

as tapestry screens, flower-pots on stands, and

the innumerable ti-ifles which go to complete the

furnisliing of a really cosy room. Needless to

say, hea\'y furniture of all kinds should be

banished ; everything in the room should be as

dainty and artistic as possible.

Inleiid mahogany and rosewood are largely

used in the construction of present-day drawing-

room furniture. There is much that is French

in the modem style, wliich is of graceful and

refined design. Furniture manufacturers seem

to have taken as their groundwork some of the

best characteristics of the old world styles,

Comer Chair.

Occasional Table.

evolving from them a style particularly suitable

for present-day needs. Drawing-room chairs

are of a dainty spindle-legged design, the pretty

little corner chair being especially typical of

present-day drawing-room suites. Tables are

small, light, and graceful. The needs of the

slender purse are particularly well catered for

by the modern furniture dealer. People of

average means are no longer compelled to

furnish their drawing-rooms with all sorts of

odds and ends, and chairs which quarrel with

each other in both colour and design axe now

seldom seen in even the most poorly furnished

rooms, as complete furniture suites in inlaid

mahogany or satinwood can be purchased

for quite a moderate svun. The less expensive

suit<" do not contain so many pieces as the

more expensive kinds ; sometimes only a settee,

two small chairs, two comer chairs, and a round

table are provided. In these circumstances

the furnishing scheme must be completed by

purchasing by degrees one or two upholstered

arm-chairs, and, if possible, a small sum should

be expended upon one or two dainty little

occasional tables to match the rest of the suite.

A cabinet and an escritoire might also be added

as sooa as the purse allows. The settees pro-

vided with drawing-room suites are always of

the same spindle-legged pattern as the chairs,

and an added air of cosiness will therefore be

imparted bj' the addition of a pretty drawing-

room Chesterfield or some other similar type of

softly upholstered settee or couch. A jardiniere

to match the furniture will also be effective ;

and where a brass standard lamp mth a soft

deUcately coloured silk shade, may be had,

the effect of the pretty subdued light it gives

at night is very pleasing. A little " tea com-

panion," upon which plates of cake and bread

and butter may be handed round at afternoon

tea, is a piece of furniture the usefulness of which

must be by no means overlooked. A tasteful

fire-screen, preferably one draped in deUcate silk,

liberty style, should be placed before the grate.

Tlie clock should be in keeping with the general

daintiness of the room. Very pretty designs

may be had in the refined Sheraton and Chip-

pendale styles for quite a moderate outlay.

An art tapestry screen in a framework of

mahogany or any other wood of which the

furniture may be composed may also be added

with effect. The drawing-room is essentially a

room to which little extras may be added by

degrees, but - and this is very important - the

additions must always be in keeping T\ith the

general furniture scheme.

The larger the room the more advantageously

can the daintiness of drawing-room furniture

be displayed. It is a mistake, however, to

crowd too much furniture into a small room, not

only from the point of view of space, but owing

to the fact that its effect will be completely

lost and the room made to look smaller than

it is.

A small drawing-room should, if possible, be

papered in white. A white satin striped paper

with a very narrow floral frieze would be effec-

tive. (For Drawing-room Decoration, see p. 15.)

Water-colour sketches and delicate engravings

are the most suitable pictures for drawing-room

walls.

A pretty Indian carpet with a light ground

makes a very effective floor covering. Wilton,

Brussels, and Axminster carpets in the lighter

tones are also suitable (see carpets, p. 20).

Where a seamless woven square carpet is

used in a small room plain Japanese matting

■will be found to make a very good surround.

Many drawing-rooms are furnished nowadays

in reproductions of famous period styles such

as Chippendale, Adam, Sheraton, Hepplewhite,

Louis XV., or Louis XVI. Needless to say,

where such a style is adopted everything must

be in keeping. Chairs of one period must not

be mixed up with tables of anotlicr, and a bureau

of still another epoch ; wall papers and carpets

must also be chosen in accordance with the

particular furniture scheme.

Arrangement of Furniture. - A great deal will

depend upon the suitable arrangement of the

THE HOUSE

room. The position of a piano, for instance,

has spoiled the effect of many otherwise well-

arranged drawing-rooms. Very often it is

necessary to place an upright piano against the

wall through exigencies of space. A more

graceful effect, however, is usually obtained by

placing it at a convenient angle. Where it is

an old and shabby-looking instrument the face

of it can be turned towards a corner of the room

hidden from aU but the pianist, whilst the back

can be draped in silk of a delicate art shade.

Whenever an upright piano is placed with its

back turned away from the wall it should be

draped in this manner.

Grand pianos give an air of " finish " to a

drawing-room wliich is achieved by no other

means. A pretty silk cover should be kept

over the top if photograplis or ornaments of any

kind are to stand upon it. It is bad taste to

have too many ornaments or photogi-aphs on a

piano, a panel photograph in a very handsome

frame and one or two choice ornaments being

quite sufficient. It requires

a very large room to show

off a grand piano to advan-

tage. Demi -grands look very

well, and the ' ' Baby Grands ' '

are very suitable both for

large and moderately siz;ed

rooms. Piano-stools are not

now inartistic as of yore.

The high round piano-stools

are things of the past ; more

attention is now paid to both comfort and appear-

ance in regard to this piece of furniture. The

design pictured in our illustration is much in

vogue at present.

Choice of a Piano. - In choosing a piano four

important things must be considered, i.e. size,

volume of sound, tone, and touch. In connection

with the first two the size of the room must be

taken into consideration so that both size and

volume of sound are in proportion. In regard

to tone, where singing is an accomplishment in

the family it must be seen that the piano has a

good singing tone. The pianist of the family

should also try it before it is purchased to see

that it is in every way to his (or her) satisfaction

in regard to touch. There are many makes of

pianos noted for their soft beautiful tones, such

as those bearing the names of Rud Ibach, Sohn ;

Bechstein, Erard, and innumerable others.

Hall, Staircase, and Landings. - Within recent

years good taste in hall furniture has decidedly

increased. There is a leaning towards the

artistic in every way. Instead of the one time

conventional combined hat-rack and umbrella-

stand we find the quaint, old world monk's

settle and the separate umbrella-stand and

neat wall rack for hats and coats. Oak is a very

favourite wood for hall furniture. Imposing

looking richly carved oak settles with chairs to

match are pieces of furniture upon which very

Piano-Stool.

large sums of money may be spent, but the needs

of the shopper with the slender purse have been

by no means overlooked in tliis connection.

Plain artistically designed settles may be had in

fumed oak for as small a sum as £1, Is. ; a neat

fumed oak umbrella-stand can be purchased for

six or seven shilhngs, whilst high-backed oak

chairs may also be had for very moderate

prices. Where there is an outer hall or vestibule

both hat-rack and umbrella-stand should be

Hat-Rack.

placed there. A grandfather's clock is a very

effective piece of hall furniture. It should always

occupy a prominent position near the staircase.

Mats to be placed outside thљ various room

doors should not be overlooked when furnishing

the hall. There should also be a good fibre

mat in the vestibule.

If the hall is a bright one some pictures can

be displayed to advantage upon the walls, also

any military or hunting trophies (see Hall

Decoration, p. 16). Where there is a high

white dado crowned with a projecting rail or

Umbrella-Stand.

sheK, one or two good pieces of china might be

displayed upon this.

Wliere the haU is carpeted staircase and

landing carpets should match the hall carpet.

In high houses, however, the flight of stairs

leading to the servants' room may be covered with

oilcloth. If a tenant is fortunate enough to

seem-e a house with a tiled hall, she will be

spared the expense of purchasing a floor -covering

of any kind, for a few mats will be all that is

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

necessary. One or two pictures may be hung on

the walls of the stair"-ay if the hght is sufficiently

good for them to be properly seen.

WTiere there axe good landings these are

capable of tasteful decorative treatment. In

houses where there is a large alcoved landing

leading from tho first flight of stairs to a side

wing of the house, the alcove should bo prettily

draped with curtains. A low-standing book-

case enamelled wliite could bo placed upon the

side facing the stairs with one or two choice

pieces of art pottery displayed upon it. A

small table and two chairs could occupy the

curtained recess to the left. Tliose who are the

fortunate possessors of some good piece of

statuary might display it here to advantage.

One or two tall J8u:dinieres contsuning palms

Monk's Settle.

■would also be effective. Such a landing, if

cosily furnished, can easily be used as a smoking

lounge. We do not all possess large square

landings, however, but even very tiny landings,

if of the proper shape, can be gracefully treated

by means of hangings and appropriately placed

jsu'dinieres.

There are so very many different types of

halls and landings that it is rather difficult to

lay down hard and fast rules for their treatment.

The ordinary passage hall does not lend itself

to much decoration. Very often there is only

room for settle, hat-rack, and umbrella-stand.

Chairs are really unnecessary where there is a

good oak settle, but they should always form

part of tho hall fiu-niture where there is none.

The Lounge Hall. - This description covers two

widely different types of hall. The large square

hall of the country mansion, with its carved

wood panelling, deep wide staircase, and hand-

some furniture, need not hero be dealt with.

Such halls aire only possessed as a rule by people

with whom money is no object and who can

afford to pay for the most ejqiert advice upon

the question of furnishing. But there is another

type of square haU which is often met with

now a lays, i.e. that which forms a characteristic

feature of tho modem type of bungalow or flat.

In the smaller flats where there is only one

sitting-room a hall of tliis kind has to do duty

as another sitting-room or lounge. In these

circumstances it should be furnished as much

like a room as possible. Screens should be

used to keep off the draught from tho front

door, whilst curtains should hang from the doors

of the rooms wliich lead out into the hall. A

cork carpet in a sliade of axt green could be used

as a floor-covering, with two or three warm cosy-

looking mats scattered over it. Umbrella-stand

and hat-rack should be banished away in some

liidden corner. Near the fire-place might be

placed a glass-fronted cupboard, painted wliite,

in which either dinner or tea-set could be dis-

played. If space permits there might also be a

low wliite enamelled book-case, upon which one

or two pretty vases in Wedgwood blue could

stand. Two low chairs and a cushioned settee

would complete the " sitting-room " illusion.

A bright fire burning in the grate in winter will

increase the homely and comfortable appearance

of the hall sitting-room. In flats with oiJy one

sitting-room such an arrangement wUl be found

not only cosy but convenient. Care must be

taken, however, to reduce draughts to a mini-

mum. All doors leading on the hall should be

kept closed when it is in use and the portieres

drawn well over them.

Dinlng-Room. - Large sums of money are very

often spent upon dining-room furniture with

very poor results. There is a tradition with

most people that the dining-room must be

sombre and heavy looking, and in the effort of

living up to that tradition they often succeed

in turning out a room which is so gloomy in

appearance that to spend any amount of time

in it is to become hopelessly depressed.

This is a great mistake. The dining-room,

it is true, must be furnished in a dignified

manner, but cheerfulness must not be banished

from it. We have gone past the days of the

ponderoiis Victorian sideboard and hideous

horse-hair chairs. All should realise the fact

that our dining-rooms may be dignified and at

the same time pleasing and artistic.

There was a time when the cost of furnishing

the simplest type of dining-room was so great

that people of slender means could seluom

afford to furnish the room outright, but were

forced to pvirchaso the various articles by

degrees. Nowadays things have changed -

furniture manufactiirers supply complete suites

at reasonable prices, as a visit to any of

their show-rooms can prove, and, what is more,

the workmanship is good and the design

excellent.

In former times the design of cheap furniture

was seldom good, hence the public belief in the

" cheap and naisty " theory which is still so

widely spread. It is true iliat to obtain really

good furniture one must pay a good price, but

the fact remains that manufacturers and dealers

THE HOUSE

>rodel Dining-Roora for small Flat (Maple).

A Simple Bedroom {Heal d: Sotis).

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

are studying more and more the needs of those

to whom money is an object, recognising that

it is not of people with unlimited wealth at their

disposal with wliich to indulge their most ex-

travagant tastes that the major part of the

great army of shoppers is composed, but rather

of those who have only a certain sum to spend,

and who must necesstirily keep within its hmits.

Diimer-"Waggon.

First of all, the dining-room must be suitably

decorated (see p. 15). A few well-chosen oil-

paintings and family portraits (if any) may adorn

the walls. Failing these some very good en-

graxings in frames of the same wood as the

furniture. A good Turkey carpet is the carpet

par excellence for a dining-room, but we cannot

all afford to indulge in luxuries of the kind.

Let the carpet at any rate be as soft in

appearance as possible, with a good pile. Oak,

mahogany, and walnut are the principal woods

utilised in the manufact\ire of dining-room furni-

ture. Especially inexpensive, and at the same

time good, furnitiore may be had in what is

known as " fumed oak."

At one time even the cheapest makes of

sideboards cost a fair siun, and so very often

this article of furniture had to be banished from

the list of many a young couple furnishing on

very small means. Nowadaj's a most artistic

style of fumed oak sideboard, something akin

to a Welsh dresser in appearance, may be

obtained for an outlay of only a few pounds.

This type of sideboard is very effective in dining-

room decoration. It is a type also which is

very fashionable at the present time. One or

two pieces of china should always bo displayed

on the shelves, Dutch fashion. Blue or blue

and white china looks prettiest with oak. Of

the expensive sideboards in the old Dutch styles

richness of carving is the chief characteristic.

In most of these glass in any shape or form is

conspicuous by its absence.

A dining-room can be well furnished at a

cost of between £18 and £20, the furniture

inclu'lmg an inexpensive fumed oak dresser of

the kind described, some high-backed fumed

oak chairs neatly upholstered in green leather,

a good oak dining-table, a diiuier-waggon, or

butler's tray, an easy-chair, a small writing-

table, and the necosseu-y equipment in the way

of cloth table-cover, curtains, cornice pole,

fender, fire-irons, coal-scuttle, carpet and sur-

round hearthrug. Where strict economy has

to be practised the easy-chair and the writing-

table may be omitted. Very inexpensive black

iron coal-scuttles, gipsy pattern, may be pur-

chased for a few shillings, and can be made to

do duty whore a better kind cannot be afforded.

A pretty cloth or art serge table-cover can be

made at home for a very small outlay, and

casement curtains may also be made for a

trifling cost by the clever home worker. (See

Furnisliing Lists, p. 30.)

Morning and Breakfast-Room. - These two

titles are bracketed together because in the

generality of houses, where there are but three

or four reception rooms at most, the terms

" morning-room " and " breakfast-room " ere

synonymous. The " breakfast " or " morning "

room may be taken to indicate the most generally

useful room in the house. It is writing-room,

sewing-room, and school-room in turn. Many a

morning is spent in this room by the busy house

mistress in writing letters, going over accounts,

and attending to innumerable small household

details. It is also often the room where the

elder children, emancipated from the nursery,

prepare their lessons, and partake of that ever

favovirite meal of childhood - the five o'clock

tea.

Tlie furniture for the morning-room or break-

fast-room must therefore be chosen with due

Gate-legged Table.

regard to the uses to which it will be put. As

meals are to be served in this room a sideboard

will be necessary. This can be much smaller

and of lighter design than that of the dining-

room. Then there must be a table - a fair-

sized round gate-leg table of fumed oak would

be useful and at the same time inexpensive.

THE HOUSE

&3 a good one may be purchased for about

£3. Fumed oak chairs with rush seats may

be purchased for from 12s. each. In addi-

tion, there should be a large lounge easy-chair

or two small tapestry arm-chairs, a small

writing-table for the special use of the house

mistress, and a book-case or some book-shelves

for the children's school books.

Wliere there are no cliildren, the morning-

room Tvill be probably utilised as her own

special room by the mistress of the house. In

these circumstances she will be able to give

full scope to her taste for dainty and graceful

effects. Chairs may be upholstered in tapestry,

pretty engra\'ings can be hung upon the walls,

and, apart from the sideboard, which is a neces-

sity in a breakfast-room, the whole scheme of

furnishing may be such that it might be aptly

termed a " boudoir."

There are many possibiHties in the f\:rnishing

of a morning-room, possibiHties which must

always, however, be guided by individual cir-

cumstances.

The Library. - ^There should be an air of rest-

fulness about the Hbrary, conducive to read-

ing and study. A flat leather top desk with

drawers on either side should be placed in a

good light. The writing equipment should be

complete in every way - inkstand, pen-rest,

blotter and letter weight, a stand for note-

paper and envelopes and telegram forms and

postcards should all be there and should be kept

neat and tidy. To go with this desk there should

be a low desk-chair - the round leather up-

holstered revolving-chair is the most comfort-

able type. A very large arm-chair in which

the master of the house can lounge at ease

while reading one of his favourite works is also

Flat Library Desk

a necessity in the well -furnished library. Near

this chair should be one of the ever-handy re-

volving book-cases from which the reader may

select a volume at will. A large stationary

book-case will also be necessary. This should

be with adjustable shelves in order that books

of all sizes can be placed upon it. A very good

sectional extending book-case may be purchased

for a little over £3. One or two high-backed

Hevolring Book-case.

chairs should also be in the room, and a good

hassock footstool should be placed neeir the easy-

chair.

In houses where there is Uttle money to spend

upon book-cases and other similar articles of

furniture, much may be done

by the home worker to-

wards its equipment. With

a Httle knowledge of carpen-

tering inexpensive shelves

can be made and fitted

round the walls. These

should always have some

sort of border, not only as

a finish but to keep off the

dust. It may be often

found advantageous to pur-

chase the writing-table from

one of the large oflEice-fur-

nishing firms, as very often

these firms have second-hand goods which they

are willing to sell at quite a moderate sum.

Desk-chairs may often also be purchased in

this way. A httle smokers' cabinet should also

find a place upon the wall.

There should always be dark curtains in the

library - red or green are particularly suitable.

Where there is a portiere over the door it should

be of the same colour as the window curtains.

(For Library Decoration, see p. 16.)

Bedroom Furniture. - The stiffness, ugUness,

and lack of comfort generally which character-

ised the furnit-ure of the early Victorian era,

was in no way more clearly demonstrated than

in regard to furniture for the bedroom.

Happily the heavy, cumbersome high chest of

drawers, the ungainly wardrobe, and the deal

muslin-bedecked table which, svu-mounted by a

looking-glass of the most conventional pattern,

did duty as toilet-table in even the best rooms

of the average middle-class household, are now

things of the past, at any rate with all those

who prefer the present-day artistic furniture

to the atrocities of the early Victorian tradition.

There are still some people, it is true, who, whilst

sparing neither trouble nor expense in the sviit-

able furnishing of dining-room, drawing-room,

and other reception rooms, barely give a thought

to the furnishing of their bedrooms. So long

as the reception rooms are nice anything will

do for the bedrooms seems to be their guiding

principle, and whilst money is spent ungrudg-

ingly upon the decoration of the other rooms

a totally inadequate sum is set apart for the

furnishing of those rooms in which after all they

spend a very considerable portion of the twenty-

four hours.

Happily in these enlightened days there are

comparatively few people who take so de-

cidedly unenlightened a view of things. With

those who do, it must be presumed that tradi-

tion dies hard and that they are simply carrying

on the tastes of their grandmothers. Sensible

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

people are keenly alive to the fact that, apart

from the usual number of hours spent in the

bedroom, intervals of illness are apt to occur

in the hves of every one of us. In these cir-

cumstances should not our bedrooms be as

bright, cheery, and as pleasing to the eye as pos-

sible ? Neither ungainly inartistic furniture

nor hideous wall pa^^er will be conducive to the

cheerfulness of an invalid in that period of con-

valescence, during which a morbid and depressed

state of mind will do more than anytliing else to

retard recovery. On the other hand, a prettily

decorated room, with a bright pleasing wall

paper, tasteful furniture, however simple, and

a cheerj- aspect have more influence in keeping

up the spirits of the invalid and assisting her

to a speedy recovery than one would generally

suppose.

The ideal bedroom has a sunny aspect.

Tliere is something especially exhilarating

about the morning sun. Care should be taken,

however, to see that the rays of the sun do not

beat down direct upon the forehead of the

sleeper on those summer mornings when sun-

rise occurs at a time when she has not com-

pleted more than three-quarters of her full

amount of sleep. Needless to say, suitable

blinds should be provided for every bedroom,

and these should be kept well lowered, or, if

there is a casement window, the curtains should

be drawn. When the plan of the room allows of

such an arrangement, the bed should be placed

so that the window does not face, but comes

to one side of it. In this way the discomfort

of the early morning glare will be avoided.

It is also essential that the bed should not

be placed in a draught. The head of the bed

should never be facing the window, for instance,

neither should the fire-place be on the same side

of the room as the door. If only for purposes

of ventilation, there should always be a fire-

place in the bedroom - an open gas-fire is especi-

ally useful, as it does away with the labour of

setting fires and carrying up coals, and can be

turned off and on as required without invohnng

any trouble.

WTien taking a house a Woman should be

careful in looking over the bedrooms to note if

they contain any fitted cupboards. Tliese are

a boon in every household, and, painted a

pretty white to match the woodwork, they

tidd considerably to the ornamentation of the

room. The presence or absence of these cup-

boeirds should alwaj's form a consideration in

the taking of a house. It is also advisable to

study the structure of the walls. In many

cases where cupboards are lacking there maj' be

convenient alcoves where these may easily be

fitted, or, if money is a consideration, they may

be utilised for making pretty curtain cup-

boards. Suitably placed alcoves are capable of

treatn.ent, by which they may add considerably

to the decoration of a room. An alcove just

over the bed, for instance, lends itself to tasteful

curtain drapery. Where one occurs over the

window it may be treated in the same way.

In the Queen Anne style of house especially,

many of the quaint old-world casement windows

are set into deep alcoves. What prettier effect

may bo obtained than by furnishing the window

with a dainty chintz-covered window-seat, and

draping the alcove with head valance and

curtains of chintz to match that used in the

upholstering of the seat ?

The furnishing of the bedroom should be

studied first of all from the point of view of

hygiene and comfort. Where there is a fitted

carpet to the room, or a square carpet which

goes under the bed, it should be seen that the

mattress of the latter stands at a sufficient height

from the floor to enable the dust to be easily

taken from underneath it. There are many

makes of bedsteads nowadays, more especially

those of the various modern French styles,

which are so low as to almost touch the floor,

leaving little or no space between the floor and

the mattress. Such a style of bed may be

artistic, but it is certainly far from comfortable,

and in no circumstances shoidd comfort be

made to give way to art, the ideal furnituro

being essentially that in which art and comfort

are combined.

Medical authorities have laid much stress

upon the fact that carpets in bedrooms are

merely harbingers of dust and dirt, and there-

fore unhygienic. Tl:ey maintain that there

should be no carpets under beds, as these cannot

always be moved every day for sweeping purposes

and dust is apt to accumulate there because un-

seen. Bedroom manufacturers have, however,

found a way out of this difficultj', and Messrs.

Heal & Sons, of Tottenham Court Road, London,

sell beds which are furnished with patent rails

upon which they can be moved with the greatest

ease.

There is no doubt that linoleum is the best

floor covering for a bedroom from the point of

hygiene. It can be easily swept and washed,

and one or two nice rugs will serve as a con-

cession to the claims of comfort and warmth.

The next best thing would of course be a

square carpet with a linoleum or a stained floor

surround. There are people who object, how-

ever, to the cold look of the bare boards or

of linoleum even if they only appear on the

border of the room. In these circumstances a

plain felt surround to tone with the carpet is

very useful.

The brass bedstead is much in vogue at the

present day. It is not the cumbersome-looking

object of yore, but a well-designed and useful

piece of furniture. Wlien fitted with swinging

Italian wings it can bo prettily draped with

dainty cretonne or other artistic hangings to

tone with the colour scheme of the room.

Draperies of this kind suspended from wings.

THE HOUSE

and wall draperies hung in artistic fashion from

the wall against which the head of the bed stands,

are the only form of bed-curtains used nowadays,

excepting in the case of the old-time four-poster

Bedstead on Metal Tramway.

which is still to be found in many homes, and

revivals of which many bed manufacturers are

placing upon the market. Valances are as a

rule Umited to the latter type of bedstead.

The wooden bedsteads now on the market are

artistic in every way and free from that ugliness

which characterised those of Victorian days. They

are no longer ungainly, cxmibersome pieces of

furniture, too heavy to move and consequently

difficult to clean. Fitted with all the most up

to date improvements, including iron frames

and wire mattresses, they do not now act as

harbingers of dust and dirt. To the many

hygienic disadvantages of the old-time wooden

bedstead may be ascribed the subsequent craze

for anything in metal, however ugly in pattern.

Some of the most ornamental wooden bedsteads

are those of inlaid mahogany in Sheraton style.

Iron bedsteads can be had for the most moderate

outlay. A white enamelled iron bedstead al-

ways looks dainty and clean. It is one of the

best and most useful types of inexpensive

bedsteads, and looks especially well with brass

tope. The ordinary low iron bedsteads are

very suitable for servants' rooms.

Bedding. - It is of the utmost importance that

the bedding should be of the best. Many people

are apt to study show more than comfort when

furnishing their bedrooms, with the result that

the important question of bedding is very often

neglected. It never answers to purchase very

cheap bedding, for the latter is apt to prove

only too dear in the long run. A cheap mattress

is not only uncomfortable, but it is an actual

menace to the health.

Woven wire spring mattresses with good

horse-hair or wool over mattresses should be

used where possible. Good hair mattresses,

however, are apt to be somewhat costly, and

therefore are not always within reach of the

average purse. Good wool mattresses are in-

finitely preferable to cheap hair ones. They

should in all cases be purchased from a re-

liable furniture dealer, preferably from a firm

who make a speciality of bedroom furniture

and bedding, for in this case good value is

assured.

In buying mattresses never be misled by

an attractive covering, which too often hides

much that is deficient in the quality of the

material of which it is comprised. For this

reason it is seldom ad\'isable to purchase what

are described as " bargains " at sales. The

common qualities of horse-hair mattresses are

filled with various sorts of " short hair " which

afford no hold to the " ties," and therefore tend

to move and work into those uncomfortable

" lumps " which so often turn a bed into a

regular instrument of torture. On the other

hand, the fine long horse-hair used in good

Italian Wing-Drapery.

mattresses gives a proper hold to the " ties "

and is kept in place by them. The French

mattresses, which contain a special quality of

hair mixed with white wool, are exceedingly soft

and comfortable. Cheap flock mattresses, which

are made up from any sort of rags, shovild be

alwaj's avoided.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The wii-e mattress should be covered with a

piece of ticking or Hessian to prevent it from

rubbing the hair mattress which is placed over it.

The colour scheme of a bedroom should be

as bright and cheery as possible, and always

chosen with due regard to the aspect of the

room and to the furniture which it will

contain (see p. 16). Whore the hygienic method

of covering the floor with linoleum or cork

carpet is adopted, care should be ta.ken to prevent

t 1 3 room from having a bare appearance by

putting down a number of warm and cosy-look-

ing rugs of as good a quality as can be procured

for the sum available. Everything that tonds

to harbour dust and dirt should be absent from

the bedroom. There should never be an excess

of ornamental trifles and knick-knacks about

the room. Girls are especially prone to collect

these httle ornaments, to the despair of many

a hard-working housemaid.

Furniture. - The best-designed bedroom furni-

ture of to-day combines much of the artistic

effects of the famous epochs in furnitTore history

with a strict attention to convenience of con-

struction as necessitated by modern needs.

Modern bedroom furniture manufacturers also

make a special feature of reproductions from

the antique. Needless to say, when a bedroom

is furnished in accordance with a certain period,

decoration, carpet, hangings, all must conform

with this furniture scheme.

Oak, naahogany, satinwood, rosewood are

very favourite materials for bedroom suites.

There is also a great vogue at present for white

enamelled furniture. This fashion comes as

something in the nature of a blessing in disguise

for the woman with a slender purse, as the

white enamelled suites show a wide range of

prices, the cheaper kinds being procurable for

a few pounds.

Every furnitxire sviito should comprise a

wardrobe, a dressing-table, a wash-stand and

two chairs, although in some of the more

inexpensive smtes only toilet table, chest of

drawers, and wash-stand are included. When

the latter is not fitted with rails for towels a

towel-horse should be provided. It should be

ascertained that the locks of drawers and

wardrobe cupboards are in order, that the

drawers open and shut easily, and that the

inside of each piece of furniture is in as good

condition as the outside. The wash-stand

should have a marble top and be tiled at the

back. A sheet of emdcca might also be fixed

up at the back of the wash-stand instead of the

ordinary " splasher " for the protection of the

wall. A cosy easy-chair and a table should

also be included in the bedroom furnit'ire

where possible. Very daintily upholstered little

tapestry arm-chairs may be obtained at quite

moderate prices. For an inexpensively furnished

room an ordinary basket chair painted to tone

with the furnitiire and with pretty cretonne

cushions can be made to answer the purpose.

A box ottoman daintily upholstered in cretonne

is a most useful piece of furniture, more especi-

allj' in flats where the cupboard accommodation

is necessarily limited. This inay be either

purchased from a furniture shop or fashioned

by the deft fingers of the home upholsterer.

Pretty cretonne, chintz, lace, or other washable

curtains are the most suitable for the bed-

room. Heavy hangings of any kind should be

avoided. The walls should not be covered with

pictures - one or two engra\'ing8 in Ught-coloured

frames will be sufficient.

The toilet-table linen should always be fresh

and spotless. The pretty duc'icsse sets con-

sisting of a narrow lace-edged or hem-stitched

toilet cover and mats are the most suitable

for the present-day type of table. These sets

are often used also for the wash-stand. They

are apt to get very wet, however, if they are

left on during the toilet ablutions, and for this

reason most people prefer to do without them.

The general equipment of the toilet-table in

regard to pin-cushions (well supplied with pins),

hat-pin and hair-pin tidies must not be neglected.

Any silver displayed on the table should be kept

clean and well polished. All these are details,

attention to which will go a long way to secur-

ing the cosy effect in bedroom decorations which

some people find it so hard to achieve.

THE DRESSING-ROOM

The decoration of a dressing-room should con-

form with that of the bedroom which it adjoins.

It should contain a good roomy

gentleman's wardrobe, a shaving-

stand with mirror, also washstand

and suit-case stand. A shaving-

stand is to be preferred to the

ordinary toilet-table, not only be-

cause it takes up much less room,

though this is an important con-

sideration as dressing-room space

is usually limited, but also be-

cause a shaving-glass is much more

easily adjusted to the correct angle

required by the person shaving,

and, being very light, it is easily

moved to any convenient position.

Toilet Ware. - Over-elaboration

of design in toilet ware should

be avoided in tastefully furnished Shaving-Mirror

homos. Artistic yet simple pat-

terns should be chosen. Patterns after the style

of Wedgwood and Spode arc much favoured by

those whose furnishing is on artistic lines. Plain

colours and simple shapes go best with the

present-day style of bedroom furniture. The

self-coloured art wares are largely used, and

with these the quaintly Hhapod ewer with a

spout like that of a teapot is often seen. On

THE HOUSE

the whole, the ewers of a more conventional

design are preferable to these.

In addition to the regular toilet set there

should be a white china slop-pail, a water-bottle,

and a glass in every bedroom.

THE BATH-ROOM

In the bath-room the sanitary fittings should

be beyond reproach. In a rented house this

will of course be the landlord's affair, so when

looking over a house particular attention should

be paid to the bath-room fittings. A good

fitted iron bath of the latest type with taps

for hot and cold water and waste and without

any wooden casing is the best. Iron baths

are preferable to the more luxurious porcelain,

as the latter take a great deal of heat from

the water, taxing the capacity of the kitchen

range to the utmost, whereas with iron baths

the heat of the water is retained. There are

several methods of covering and finishing the

interior surface of iron baths. Of these the

porcelain enamel process is perhaps the most

effective. Where this process has been applied

the interior of the bath presents the same

enamelled surface as earthenware - ^the enamel

is also very durable.

A fitted lavatory basin with hot and cold

Water-supply is very desirable in a bath-room.

Beyond the actual fittings very little furniture

is required. There should be a towel-rail, a

cane-seated chair, a stool, and a rack for sponges

and soap to be hung on the wall next to the bath.

One of the new bath-racks which fit across the

centre of the bath to act as receptacle for the

soap and sponge which the bather is actually

using is also usefiil, as it does away with the

necessity of reaching up whenever anything is

required to the rack on the wall. A cork bath-

mat and one or two warm bath-rugs are also

necessary. There should also be a mirror on

the wall, preferably the regulation bath-room

mirror, with a drawer for brushes and combs.

Cork carpet or linoleum are the best floor

coverings for bath-rooms. (For Bath-room

Wall Coverings, see p. 14.)

FURNISHING A BED-SITTING-ROOM

The bed-sitting-room represents the home of

many a woman worker, who often takes more

pride in the arrangement of the few simple

articles she can call her own and the purchase

of which in many instances have involved

several little acts of self-sacrifice than does the

possessor of the most luxurious furniture which

money can buy.

It is wonderful what good results may be

achieved with comparatively little outlay in the

furnishing of a room of the kind, but necessity

nearly always proves " the mother of invention,"

as the many ingenious yet simple contrivances

which can Tdc resorted to in furnishing a bed-

sitting-room will go very far to prove.

The great object to be attained in furnishing

a bed-sitting-room is to arrange it in such a

manner that it gives no idea of a bedroom during

the daytime. This result is not so difficult to

achieve as one would suppose. Before taking the

room, first of all ascertain that the wall -paper is

not one of those glaring atrocities so often met

with in the present-day lodging-house. If the

room is suitable in every way and the wall-paper is

the only drawback try and get the landlady to

have it re-papered. If she is not disposed to do

so offer to share part of the expense, which will

not be much. Very simple and effective paper

may be bought for an ordinary-sized room at

an entire cost of from 15s. to 20s., including the

work of hanging, and rather than put up with

ugly WaU-paper it will be foimd better in the

long run to bear the cost oneself, if the landlady

is obdurate on the point.

It is well to observe when taking the room

if there are any cupboard fitments. A good

The "Divan" Bed.

roomy cupboard will save the purchase of a

wardrobe which, besides being somewhat ex-

pensive to buy, would go a long way towards

destroying the sitting-room illusion during the

day. If a wardrobe is a necessity then one

of the plain inexpensive bamboo cupboards

without any glass in front would be the best to

purchase. If the cost of a carpet cannot be

afforded, stain the floor with permanganate o£

potash and polish it with bees'-wax and tur-

pentine- ^the cost of this will be very trifling

if you do the whole work yourself. Two or

three pretty rugs may be purchased for a few

sMUings each. A fairly good art square carpet

for a small room may be purchased for about

25s. ; with this only the surround of the floor

need be stained.

The furniture should include a bed which can be

made to look as much like a couch in the daytime

as possible - a perfectly flat bed of the camp

variety without any upstanding head or foot -piece

would do. With this there should be a good

soft wool mattress. The bed should always be

placed against the wall. In the daytime the

bed-clothes can be neatly folded up and placed

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

nnderneath the mattress, and the whole can be

covered with a pretty Indian rug. Arrange on

this one or two cushions and the result is a

very cosy and effective-looking eastern divan.

Special couch beds are now largely sold by

furniture manufacturers.

A small plain deal table with one or two

drawers may be purchased for five or six sliillings.

This should be stained a shade corresponding

Dwarf Cupboard.

with the rest of the furniture of the room and

placed against the wall, and a good-sized

looldng-glass hung on the wall directly over it.

The table will do duty as both toilet-table and

writing-table. In the daytime the brushes and

hand-mirror, together with the toilet-cover and

mats, may be put aside in the drawer, their

places being taken by a neat blotting-pad, an

ink-stand, and the necessary writing materials.

A dwarf cupboard could be made to do duty

as a washstand, the toilet ware being placed in-

side the cupboard during the daytime ; or, if the

conventional wash-stand is preferred, this could

be placed in a corner of the room and com-

pletely hidden by a large screen.

Then there must be a table large enough for

meals. A round deal gate-leg table would be

very useful, as the flaps can be let down and the

table put on one side when the meal is not in

progress. A large box ottoman in wliich clothes

niay be kept should also form part of the fur-

niture ; one or two smaller ones made out of

sugar-boxes and upholstered in cretonne to

match that of the ottoman would also be useful,

acting as handy receptacles for millinery.

At one side of the room there should be a low

table or cupboard which can do duty as a side-

board. The usefulneas of corner brackets and

shelves in a room of this kind cannot be too

highly estimated. A hanging corner cupboard

with a glass door would bo especially useful for

the display of a dainty afternoon tea service

which cannot safely be trusted downstairs. Very

many large general stores, such as Whiteley's

in London, make a special feature of the sale

of white wood articles for carving, poker work,

or tnamelling. Very well-designed pieces of

furniture may be had in this white wood at

a comparatively smaU cost. Thirty shillings

will purchase a pretty cliina cabinet in whito

wood, wliilst a small book-case with glass doors

may be had for even less, and a hanging book-

case 27 inches liigh would cost from twelve

to ^teon shillings. Small book-shelves and

wall-brackets may be bought for from Is. Ud.

and upwards. When properly stained or

enamelled this furnitui-e looks very well indeed.

For an extra change it can be stained at the shop

where it is purchased

Throe or four smaU chairs and one or two

easy-chairs TsdU complete the furniture of the

room. Upholstered tapestry arm-chairs may

now be had for as Uttle as fifteen shillings.

Wicker chairs when prettily upholstered can

be made to look very cosy. When bought

ready upholstered they necessarily cost more

than when the work is undertaken at home.

In the section upon home carpentery and up-

holstery many useful hints are given in regard

to the making of inexpensive little odds and

ends for the home which the proud possessor

ot a bed-sitting-room would do well to study.

Pretty curtains and draperies, dainty table-

Ottoman

cloths, all can be made by the deft fingers of

the woman who takes a pride in making her

surroundings as cosy and dainty as possible,

however heavily she may be handicapped in

regard to means.

Period Pamltnre.- Distinctive style in furnitiu-e

IS becoming cultivated to a very great extent

nowadays, and people who have the means with

which to indulge their taste in this direction

lilco to furnish at least one room in their house

in accordance with one of the famous furniture

periods. Genuine "* antiques " can as a rule be

only indulged in by those with well-filled purses.

Other people, however, may be fortunate enough

to pos.sess one or two pieces of really good

antique furniture which has come to them by

inheritance. These should be cherished as

articles of real value, and placed amongst

surroundings in keeping with their character.

A good piece of furniture is apt to prove some-

what costly at times in the expenditure entailed

by living up to it. A Louis XVI. cabinet, for

instance, will demand that not only the rest of

the furniture in the room but also the decora-

tion be in the same style. It seems superfluous

to remark that no woman of taste would allow

THE HOUSE

such a piece of fiirniture to be placed in a room

furniBhed in accordance with the early Victorian

tradition.

All women should have at least an elementary

knowledge of the chai-acteristics of the various

styles of fm-niture belonging to the famoixs

epochs. Without this knowledge they are apt

to make somewhat glaring errors when attempt-

ing to fvirnish their rooms in accordance with any

particular period. The study of the evolution

of furniture has a fascination peculiarly its own.

Through it the manners and customs of our

forefathers may be traced step by step from the

time when primitive man first began to carve

out of wood or stone those crude implements

suited to his needs, through the centuries of

progression marked by the Gothic, Tudor,

Jacobean and Georgian periods to the Victorian

era (which last, strangely enough, marked a time

of positive decadence in the art of furniture

designs), and thence to the present day.

The connoisseur does not need to concern

herself with the styles of furniture which pre-

vailed prior to the foxirteenth century, however.

The needs of our ancestors in those days were

too simple for the evolution of any really

characteristic style, which could be adapted to

present-day needs. The real evolution of

artistic furniture in this country began with the

Tudor period. Many Italian craftsmen, settled

m England dtiring Henry VIII. 's reign, and the

influence of the Italian Renaissance has left its

mark upon the furniture of the period. The

furniture of the " Jacobean " period has a

dignity all its own. Many people like their

dining-rooms ftirnished in this particular style,

which prevailed during the reign of James I.,

1603 - until the end of the reign of James II.,

1685. It was during the eighteenth century,

however, that English fvtrniture reached its

greatest degree of artibcic perfection, and it is

with this period, therefore, that collectors are

most concerned. It gave birth to such artist-

craftsmen as Chippendale, Adam, Hepplewhite,

and Sheraton, whose names will ever live in the

annals of furniture design. Contemporaneous

with these famous English styles were the

French styles of Louis XV., Louis XVI., the

Directoire, and the First Enapire.

As has been already remarked, during the

Victorian era art in furniture went through

a marked decadence. The furniture of this

recent period is marked by its stiffness, un-

gainliness, and general air of discomfort. It

may safely be said that connoisseurs of the

future will not readily advocate a revival of the

Victorian style.

Those who wish to make a study of the char-

acteristics of the best periods in furniture cannot

do better than read some good books upon the

subject. Mr. Edwin Foley, in his book entitled

" Decorative Furniture," traces the evolution

of artistic furniture from the most remote times.

explaining the main characteristics which dis-

tinguish the art of each particular period. Much

valuable assistance is given to the collector by

the many coloured illustrations of the various

styles wliich are to be found throughout the

book. She should also make a point of visiting

museums and other places where specimens of

old furniture may be seen ; such as the Victoria

and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London ;

the Royal Scottish Miiseum, Edinbixrgh, and the

Dublin Museum. For French decorative furni-

ture in particular the Jones Collection, South

Kensington Museum and the Wallace Collection,

Hertford House, Manchester Square, should be

visited.

SOME FURNISHING ESTIMATES

Tlie following Hsts, giving suggestions in

regard to the best way of spending two fairly

representative sums of money on the furnishing

of a small house or flat, will prove useful to the

young couple who are about to furnish a home,

and who reqtiire guidance not only as to the

furniture to be purchased, but also in regard

to the cost of the various articles. The first

Ust of this has been compiled by Messrs. Maple

in connection with a ninety guinea model flat

displayed at their show-rooms. The second

scheme for furnishing a house for £300 has also

been largely compiled from information obtained

from the same firm -

THE NINETY GUINEA FLAT

The sum of ninety guineas is apportioned

amongst the various rooms as follows : -

£ s. d

Dining-room 1853

Drawing-room 22 17 6

Bedroom 20 19 1

Servant's room .4 3 3

Bath-room 17 3

Hall 343

Kitchen . 2 1 5i

Linens, blankets, &c 7 8 4

China and glass 3 6 7i

Electro-plate and cutlery .... 5 5 2

Ironmongery 6 1 10

£94 10 0

The following lists give detailed expenditure

for the various rooms : -

DINING-ROOM

£ 8. d.

Seamless tapestry carpet (12 ft. by

9 ft.) 266

Linoleum surround (say) 8 yds. at

Is. ip 9 0

2 pairs casement curtains with rod

and fittings 17 6

Qoth table-cover ....... 10 0

Black curb fender ...,,,. 76

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

£ 8. d.

Set of fire-irons 4 6

Coal-sooop 10 0

Fumed oak sideboard 4 8 6

Dining-table (3 ft. 6 in. by 6 ft.) ..250

1 Elbow-chair with rush seat ... 1 2 6

4 Small chairs with rush scat at

13s. 9d. 2 15 0

Oak side-table 17 6

1 Lounge easy-chair 13 6

Hearth-rug 8 3

£18 5 3

Dra wing-Room

, . £ 8. d.

Axrmnstor pile carpet (12 ft. by 9 ft.) 4 4 0

Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at

Is. l^d 11 3

2 pairs of Mapleton damask curtains

with rods and fittings .... 1 6 U

Curb fender ... 76

Set of fire-irons 4 6

Brass coal-scoop 10 0

2 " Neston " easy-chairs upholstered

in tapestry at 22s. 6d 2 5 0

1 " Neston " settee upholstered in

tapestry 1 18 6

1 Arm-chair with tapestry seat ..110

2 Small chairs with tapestry seat at

13s. 9d 17 6

Inlaid mahogany cabinet 4 15 0

Inlaid mahogany centre table . . . 1 12 6

Inlaid mahogany occasional table . . 9 9

Mahoganj' escritoire 2 5 0

£22 17 6

Bedroom

£ 8. d.

Felt carpet planned to room (say) 12

yds. at 38. 9d. 2 5 0

2 pairs cretonne casement curtains with

rods and fittings 18 4

Curb fender 7 6

Set of fire-irons 4 6

4 ft. 6 ins. Bedstead, white and brass .18 9

Wire-woven mattress 10 6

Sanitary pad 5 9

Extra thick wool mattress .... 1 1 1 6

Feather bolster 10 0

2 Pillows at 6s. 9d. . . . [ [ . * 13 q

Decorated white bedroom suite, com-

prising dressing-chest with jewel

drawers, double wash-stand, ward-

robe, bevel plate glass mirror,

pedestal cupboard, towel-horse,

and 2 chairs . 10 5 0

Double set toilet ware 13 6

Easy-chair 12 9

Bed furniture 12 6

£20 19 1

Servakt's Bedroom

Linoleum for covering floor .... 99

Bedside rug ^ 3 q

2 ft. 6 in. iron bedstead and wire mat-

tress, wool mattress, pad bolster,

and pillow complete .... 1 7 9

Japanned oak wash-stand .... 53

Simple set of toilet ware 3 6

Japanned oak chest of drawers with

dressing-glass fixed 15 6

Cane -seated chair 2 6

Japanned oak towel-rail 19

Fender * 3 6

£4 3 3

Bath-Room

Covering floor with linoleimi . . .

Cane-seated chair

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings

Bath-mat ....

8. d.

4 6

3 6

17 3

Hall

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings

Fumed oak umbrella-stand .

Fumed oak hat-rack ....

Linoleum for covering floor (say)

Black fender

Fumed oak settee . .

£3 4 3

Kitchen

Id.

16| yds. linoleum at Is

4 ft. kitchen table . . .

2 Kitchen chairs at 2s. lOd

Kitchen fender ....

£2 0 11

Linens, Blankets, &c.

1 pair blankets (84 by 104 in.) .

1 Under-blanket

1 White quilt [ ]

1 Down quilt

2 pairs cotton sheets at 10s. 6d.

2 pairs pillow-cases at 2s. 4d. .

1 pair blankets for servant's bed .

1 Under-blanket

1 Coloured quilt

2 pairs cotton sheets at 58. 1 Id.

1 pair pillow-cases

£ 8. d.

17 9

4 6

12 9

17 6

1 1 0

4 8

8 11

2 11

3 11

11 10

1 11

THE HOUSE

2 Damask table-cloths (2 J by 2 yds.; £ s. d.

at 5s. Ud 11 10

6 Napkins for 3 9

6 Huckaback towels for 4 9

3 Bath towels at Is. lid 3 4^

6 Servants' towels at 6^d 3 5

6 Tea-cloths for 2 11

6 Glass-clotlis for 2 6

6 Dusters for 2 0

2 Kitchen table-cloths at Is. ll^d. , 3 11

2 Roller towels at Is. l|d 2 3

£7 8 4i

Cutlery

6 Table knives for

6 Small knives for

1 pair meat-carvers

1 pair game-carvers

1 Steel

6 Electro-plated table forks for .

6 Electro-plated dessert forks for .

4 Electro-plated table spoons for .

6 Electro-plated dessert spoons for

6 Electro -plated tea spoonB for . . .

2 Egg spoons

1 Butter knife

1 pair sugar tongs

2 Electro-plated sauce ladles at 2s. 6d.

1 Electro-plated cruet with mustard

spoon

2 Electro-plated salt spoons at 9d. .

Electro -plated teapot

£5 5 2

China and Glass

£ s. d.

Dinner service for six persons . . 16 0

Tea and breakfast service for six

persons 120

Service of glass for 6 persons, viz. : 6

port glasses, 6 tumblers, 6 sherry

glasses, 2 decanters complete . 9 3

Water-bottles and glass for bedroom 1 5

Water-bottles and glass for servant . 10

China and glass jor kitchen use -

6 Plates, assorted sizes .... 16

1 Vegetable^ dish 2 3

3 Dishes for 2 9

1 Sauce boat 6

2 Breakfast cups and saucers at

5^d 11

2 Plates at 3d 6

1 Sugar basin 4

I Milk jug 7

1 Salt cellar 3^

2 Tumblers 5

1 Set of 3 jugs 13

2 Pie dishes 16

2 Pudding bowls

1 Teapot 6d., 2 store jars for Is. 5d.

1 Bread pan

a. d.

1 2

1 11

1 3

£3 6 7J

Ironmongery {Kitchen List)

1 Bath (galvanised)

1 Bowl (hand)

1 Bread grater

1 Cake tin

1 Chopping board

1 Clothes horse

1 Coal scuttle

1 Coffee canister

1 Coffee pot

1 Corkscrew

1 Colander

1 Set of dish mats

3 Dish covers : 1 each, 3s. 6d., 63. 3d.,

1 Dvist pan o . .

1 Egg slice

1 Egg whisk

1 Fish kettle

1 Fish slice

2 Iron spoons for ........

3 Tea spoons , .

1 Set steps

1 Slop-pail

1 Tea canister

1 Tea tray

1 Tin-opener " . .

1 Toasting fork

1 Glass tub (pulp) .......

1 Nutmeg grater

1 Gravy strainer

1 Housemaid's box

1 Tin kettle

1 Iron kettle .........

1 Knife board

1 Knife tray

3 Knives and forks (table) ....

1 Galvanised pail

2 Flat irons for

1 Flat iron stand

1 Flour dredger

1 Flotu" tub

1 Frying pan

1 Funnel

1 Paste board .

1 dozen patty pans .......

1 Pepperbox

1 Plate basket

2 Plate leathers

1 I^tchen poker

1 Rolling pin

1 Salt box

3 Iron saucepans, 1 each. Is. 4d., Is. 9d.,

2s. 9d

6 10

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

£ 8. d.

1 Enamelled saucepan 1

1 Set skewers

1 Soap-dish

1 Towel roller and brackets .... 1

1 Wire sieve

3 Wood spoons

Brushes-

1 Hair banister brush 1

1 WTiisk brush 1

1 Long hair broom 2

1 Carpet broom 2

1 Dusting brush 1

1 Nail brush

1 Scrubbing brush 1

1 Bass scrubbing brush

2 Plate brushes for 1

1 Set shoe brushes 2

1 Set stove brushes 2

1 Sweep's brush

£6 1 10

£300 HOUSE

Summary

£ a. d.

Hall 9 13 3

Dining-room 55 4 0

Drawing-room (with piano) . . . . 84 13 3

Moming-room 18 14 11

Best bedroom 32 16 8

Spare bedi-oom 19 8 5

2nd spare bedroom 14 17 11

Servants' bedroom 9 13 0

Kitchen 4 7 2^

Bath-room 1 14 3

Plate and cutlery 9 0 0

Linen and blankets 17 18 5

China and glass 8 0 0

Ironmongery and extra fittings . . 10 0 0

£296 1 3^

This leaves a balance of £3, ISs. 8^d., wliich

will go towards any extra expenditvu-e upon

clocks, cushions, portidres, and fancy table-

covers which have not been included in our

lists.

DETAILED LISTS

Haxl

18 yds. stair and landing carpet at

4fl 3

2 doz. rods, eyes and pins

Covering floor with linoleum (say) 12

yds. at Is. 6d

Hat"ack

Fumed oak settle 1

Fumed oak umbrella-stand ....

Rug

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings

Fender

£ s.

1 8

17 6

£9 13 3

DiNEsra-RooM

£ s. d.

Axminster pile carpet 12 ft. by 12 ft. .040

Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at

Is. lid. 13 6

2 pairs casement ciu-tains with rod and

fittings .136

Table-cover 15 0

Pierced steel fender 110

Set of fire-irons 9 0

Coal-scoop 110

Mahogany sideboard 8 17 G

Mahogany 2-tier serving-table ... 2 10 0

Dining-table 4 12 6

6 mahogany small chairs upholstered

in morocco at 22s. 6d 6 15 0

Easy -chair upholstered in tapestry .440

Easy-chair upholstered in tapestry .350

Mahogany occasional table . . . . Ill 6

Mahogany escritoire 4 116

Mahogany book-case 7 10 0

£55 4 0

MOBNINQ-ROOM

£ a. d.

Seamless tapestry square carpet 12 ft.

by 9 ft 2 6 6

Linoleum surround 9 0

2 pairs curtains with rod and fittings . 17 6

Ciirb fender 7 6

Set of fire-irons 10 0

Coal-scoop 5 0

4 small rush-seated fumed oak chairs

at 13s. 9d. each 2 15 0

Fumed oak sideboard 4 8 6

Easy-chair 150

Hearth-rug 8 3

Gate-leg table 2 0 0

Sectional book -case 3 2 8

£18 14 11

Drawing-Room

£ a. d.

Axminster pile carpet 10 ft. 6 ins. by

9 ft 4

Felt surroimd (say) 12 yds. at Ss. 9d. . 2

Pierced fender 1

Set of fire-irons

Brass coal-scoop

2 pairs casement curtains with rod and

fittings 13 6

THE HOU^E

Inlaid mahogany Sheraton cabinet .

Inlaid mahogany writing ....

Piano 1.* '

Piano-stool with velvet cushion . •

Inlaid mahogany circular table . . •

Settee upholstered in tapestry . • ■

Easy-chair № ' . ' ' '

1 Inlaid mahogany elbow-chair . . .

4 Inlaid mahogany small chairs at

223. 6d

1 Inlaid mahogany occasional table .

Hearth-rug

Screen

8 17

2 17

40 0

1 2

2 5

5 7

2 12

1 17

4 10

1 6

3 2

Kitchen

Covering floor with linoleum

4 ft. kitchen table ....

2 Kitchen chairs at 6s. 6d. .

1 Windsor chair ....

1 Carpet deck-chair . . •

Alarm clock

Coal hod

Strong shovel

Kitchen poker ....

Bug

£84 13 3

£ 8. d.

£4 7 2*

Bath-Room

Covering floor with Unoleum . . •

Cane-seated chair

Glass with drawer for brush and comb

Bath rack

Bath mat

£1 14 3

Bedroom

w 12 ft. . .

£ 8. d.

. 3 12 0

Double set of toilet ware ....

Easy-chair . 12

Hearth-rug

Occasional table •

1 set of bed draperies to match curtains

Oval Sheraton mirror

Screen

Linen basket

£32

Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at

Is. Hd

Curb fender

Set of fire-irons

2 pairs casement curtains with rod and

fittings 1

4 ft. 6 in. brass bedstead ^

Wire-woven mattress

Sanitary pad

Hair mattress -

Feather bolster

2 Pillows • • ■

Inlaid mahogany bedroom suite, com-

prising : - Wardrobe, dressing-

chest with glass, washstand fitted

with cupboard, and towel -rail and

two chairs 12

Spare Bedroom

Caledon carpet 12 ft. by 9 ft. . . .

Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at

Is. Id. •

2 pairs Mapleton damask ciirtains with

rod and fittings

1 set of bed draperies to match . . .

Fender

Set of fire-irons

3 ft. White and brass bedstead . . .

Wire-woven mattress

Sanitary pad

Hair mattress

Bolster

Feather piUow

White bedroom suite, comprising : -

Wardrobe, dressing-chest, with

glass, washstand fitted with towel -

rail and 2 chairs

Single set toilet ware

Hearth-rug

Easy-chair

Occasional table

Linen basket

Second Spare Bedroom

Fumed oak bedstead with wire spring

mattress 2

Sanitary pad

Hair mattress 1

Bolster

Feather pillow * ' *

Fumed oak smte comprising : - 2 ft.

6 ins. wardrobe, 2ft. 6 ins. dressing-

table, washstand, and one chair .

Oak shaving-stand

Easy-chair

Set of toilet ware •

2 pairs casement cm-tains with rod and

fittings

Clothes-basket

Linoleum to cover floor (12 by 9) . .

2 Rugs at 73. 6d. each

9 0

£19

8. d.

4 9

3 9

7 6

6 0

9 0

15 6

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Servants' Bkdroom (2 7naid8)

£ s. d.

Covering floor with linoleum ... 99

2 Bedside rugs GO

Two 2 ft. 0 ins, iron bedsteads and

wire mattresses, wool mattresses,

pads, Ijolsters, and pillows com-

plete at £1, 73. 9d. each ... 2 15 6

2 Painted chests of drawers at £1,

9s. 6d. each 2 19 0

2 Painted washstands at 12s. 6d. . . 1 5 0

2 Painted dressing-glasses at 4a. 6d.

each 8 9

2 Painted chairs at 4s. 3d. each . . 8 6

Double set of toilet ware 7 0

Fender 3 6

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings 10 0

£9 13 0

(For Ironmongery, see p. 37.)

(For China and Glass, see p. 37.)

(For Electro-plate and Cutlery, see p. 37.)

LETTING A FURNISHED HOUSE

Speaking generally, it is unad\asable to let a

well -furnished house. To do so is to place your

precious household goods at the mercy of

strangers, who will not appreciate them or care

for them as you do. Dilapidations and break-

ages of various kinds are bound to occur, and

even if their money value is received, there

are some things that cannot be replaced in the

owner's estimation.

Very often, however, a woman finds it ab-

solutely necessary to let her house. She may

be called abroad, and might not care to leave

the house shut up or in charge of a caretaker.

Again, the finances for the annual holiday might

depend to a great extent upon her abiUty

to let it. In these circumstances, therefore,

she must take the utmost precautions to ensure

that it is lot to careful tenants. Tlie house

should bo put in the hands of a good agent,

who will see that all the formalities in regard

to suitable references from the prospective

tenant are proceeded with, and who can make

judicious inquiries apart from these references.

The agent will charge a commission upon the

amount received for rental, together with fees

for drawing up agreement and taking inventory.

An inventory has always to be taken of every

piece of furniture, plate, and linen left in the

house. Wliere the house is large it may some-

times take a whole day to go over this carefully.

The mistress of the houso should see that this

important piece of work is properly done, draw-

ing the agent's attention particularly to articles

she wishes to be carefully noted.

It is usual to leave a certain small supply

of plate and linen ; but the bulk of this with

other cherished articles should be locked care-

fully away. A very large cupboard or a room,

sometimes both, should be reserved for locking-

up piorposes, and the agent should see that the

doors of these are carefully sealed.

If the furniture is very good, never let the

house to people with young children, as these

are often responsible for a great deal of damage.

Dogs, if not under proper control, also often

cause a large amount of wear and tear. It is

as well to have a clause inserted in the agree-

ment that no dogs must be kept without the

landlord's consent. This consent shovild not,

however, be unreasonably withheld. Many people

would not dream of taking a house without

taking their pets with them. Let it be impressed

upon the tenants, therefore, that they will be

held responsible for any additional wear end tear

which the keeping of these pets might entail.

Before letting the house it should be thor-

oughly cleaned from cellar to attic, and the

chimneys should be swept. The tenant should

also leave it as clean in every way as when he

(or she) took up the tenancy.

QUARTER DAYS

English

Lady Day Mar. 25

Midsummer June 24

Michaelmas 1 Sep. 29

Christmas Dec. 25

Scotch

Candlemas Feb. 2

Whitsuntide May 15

Lammas Aug. 1

Martinmas Nov. 11

Half-Quarter Days

Feb. 8, May 9, Aug. 11, and Nov. 11.

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

There is an old and very true saying that " knowledge is power." Nowhere does this maxim

more fittingly apply than in the case of the woman who is thoroughly acquainted with every

detail of the work of the home, and knows how the various domestic duties can be most efficiently

and, at the same time, most expeditiously performed.

Even to the woman who is so comfortably endowed with this world's goods that she can

afford to maintain a staff of highly trained servants at liberal wages, a knowledge of house-

wifery is an invaluable asset. Then hers must be the brain to supervise and direct the smooth

running of the household machinery, to see that each servant performs conscientiously and efficiently

the work allotted to her, that the whole establishment is maintained in that perfect working order

which is a typical feature of the good housewife's regime.

In this section each phase of the servant question is carefully considered. The duties of the

mistre&s in regard to the treatment and management of servants and the proper organisation and

supervision of their work are clearly outlined, as are also the duties of each servant in accordance

with the number kept. Useful information is also included in regard to the engagement of servants,

prevailing scale of wages, allowances and hoHdays.

DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS

Knowledge of Housewifery Advisable. - Like

every other profession the profession of home-

making reqtiires a certain amount of training

and apprenticeship. It is quite a mistaken

notion to think that housewifery comes in-

stinctively and naturally to every woman, and

that the woman who is unfitted for any other

career in life can stay at home and " keep house."

Domestic skill can oni^' be acquired by training.

Whatever other calling a girl or woman may

choose to select, be it ntu-sing, teacliing, medi-

cine, art, or any other of the professions open to

women, both time and money are expended in

order to qualify her for her career. Why should

housekeeping be left out when training in this

is just as essential, seeing that the happiness and

comfort of so many will depend upon her fulfilling

her duties in an intelligent manner ? A woman

who has no knowledge of the right way to

manage a house has no more right to marry and

be responsible for her husband's worldly goods

than a man would have to accept a post the

duties of which he was qiiite ignorant.

A servant is quick to grasp the fact when her

mistress is not versed in the arts of domestic

science, and quicker still to take advantage of

the ignorance thus displayed. She knows that

there is no trained eye to detect flaws in her

work ; that a room half dusted will seldom

evoke a protest - a table carelessly or slovenly

laid will as often as not pass unheeded. The

mistress will be made to suffer in many little

ways for her ignorance in respect to house-

hold duties until by bitter experience she will

awaken to the realisation of the fact that know-

ledge is indeed power, and strive to learn what

she should have known when she first began to

reign as mistress of her own home.

To the girl who is destined to begin married

life in such humble circumstances that she will

not be able to afford to keep even a general

servant, ignorance of the rules of household

work is apt to become something in the nature

of a calamity. An untidy, ill-kept home, to

say nothing of iU-cooked meals, is not conducive

to the good temper or cheerfulness of a husband,

more especially when he comes home after a

hard day's work to find chaos reigning supreme,

and that atmosphere of discomfort which few can

analyse, and only those who have experienced

it can understand. Indeed, it may be said that

many a little " rift within the lute " has been

occasioned by nothing less prosaic than the

lamentable ignorance of her household duties

displayed by the young wife.

Training in housekeeping may be acquired in

different ways. Firstly, a young girl may be

trained in her own home under a good mother

or guardian, and this is the best training of all.

The training may be given gradually tlu"Oughout

early life by allotting her little home duties to

perform and teaching her the importance of the

small things on which the comfort of the home

depends. Or, if the greater part of the girl's

life has been spent away from home in a boarding-

school, then the training may be given in a more

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

concentrated form when the school life is over.

The practical nature of a real home training is

of much greater value them any isolated courses

of lessons, which may be taken later on in life.

Training can also be swxjuired at one of the

numerous schools of Domestic Science now

estabUshed in vai'ious parts of the countrj%

and if only sufficient time is allowed this is

another excellent way of learning various

branches of household routine. Finally, know-

ledge can be gained by experience, but this un-

fortunately may be at the expense of needless

worry and anxiety not only to oneself, but to the

other members of the household as well.

Modern housekeeping requires an expert and

not an ignoramus, and there should be nothing

degrading about having to look to the ways of

one's household. In fact, it will generally be

found that the better educated and the more

intelligent a woman is, the higher will be her

housekeeping capacities. A sound knowledge

of household details does not tie one more to

one's own four walls, but it enables one to get

the best results with the least expenditure of

time and energy.

Oversight and Inspection. - ^It is the duty of

the mistress to see that her house is kept as

spotlessly clean as it is possible to make it.

Etich part must receive her attention, not only

the principal rooms of the house, such as the

sitting-rooms and bedrooms, but the kitchen,

scullery and servants' bedrooms as well.

She must also see that food is neither wasted

nor thrown away. This will necessitate a daily

visit to the larder (see p. 101), and even the

scrap-pail and dust-bin must not escape her

notice. Constant watchfulness in this respect

is all-important, and if a mistress thorouglily

understands what ought to be, she will detect

waste from the beginning and be able to put it

right.

Sinks and lavatories must also be included in

the tour of inspection, and if there is any un-

pleasant smell it must be seen to at once.

It will also be the duty of the mistress to see

that the locking up of the house at night is

attended to - that all low windows and doors

of unused rooms are locked and back and front

doors bolted. She must see that silver is care-

fully put away, and that all fires are in a safe

condition to leave.

Order and Arrangement. - The wheels of

domestic mewliinery will not run smoothly

unless the mistress is orderly and methodical

in all her arrangements.

She must first of all have a clear idea of what

she wishes to have done, and then make her

plan accordingly, so apportioning the work

among the different workers that for each detail

some one person is responsible. There must

be a fair division of labour, so that too much

does not fall to one person and not su£Scient

to auotlier.

There must also be a proper time for every-

tliing and everything should be done in its time.

Punctuality and method will contribute essen-

tially to the comfort of the home, and if house-

hold work is systematised there will be little

fear of friction or neglect.

It is impossible to draw out a model plan which

will suit the requirements of all households, so

much depends upon the size of the house, the

number of the family, the style of living, and the

means at disposal ; it therefore rests with each

mistress to devise her own particular working

scheme. She may not always succeed in

attaining her ideal, but she can at least have

a certain standard at which she aims and

which she does her best to attain. This amount

of method must not prevent departure from

routine should circumstances require it. It

must always be remembered that rules are made

for people not people for rules, and the mistake

must not be made of subordinating everything

to the keeping of the manage.

If there is one thing worse than an uncom-

fortable and disorderly home, it is the house-

hold where order and system are carried to such

a pitch that all those pleasantly diverting pur-

suits, which tend at times to upset the general

arrangement of things, are reduced to a nunimuin

in order to avoid unnecessary work, to save the

carpets, keep the furniture in good condition,

or something else of a like nature. This is to

make a desert of a home.

Order and system shovild be silent factors

which do not obtrude themselves, necessities

which are best kept out of sight, but which act

none the less as drops of oil on the machinery

of domestic routine.

Daily Duties. - ^The duties of the mistress of a

household are very numerous and very varied,

and it will be well for her to try to draw out a

plan and time-table of her own daily routine.

The extent of her duties will naturally depend

upon her income, the staff of servants at her

disposal, and the size of her household.

To house the members of her household in

comfort and health, to feed them properly and

nurse them in sickness, to keep household

accounts, to engage servants and allot to tach

their proper share of work, and to do the work

herself when occeision requires, are amorig a

few of the duties which ^v^ll rest upon her

shoulders.

Details of the variovis branches of work for

which she will be responsible will bo found

under their respective headings, such as The

House, The Table, Nursing, &c., and it is hoped

that the instructions there given will prove

helpful to the woman who desires to be a real

home-maker.

The Duty of Cheerfulness. - Cheerfulness is one

of the most valuable of possessions ; it is really

the sunshine of life, the promoter of health and

happiness. To be able to keep up the spirits

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

of those around us not only adds to the bright-

ness of the home, but helps to make all duties

comparatively light and easy. It is a woman's

duty to make the life of the home as happy and

gay as possible, and however depressed she may

sometimes feel she ought to struggle against the

feeUng and not damp the spirits of those around

her.

No one can be more trying than the person

who continually gives way to low spirits, going

about with a martyr -like expression, and making

a habit of airing her grievances at every meal

or family gathering. Such a person is a constant

source of irritation to the other members of the

household.

Unfortunately, it is often upon the home-

loving woman that the little worries, the small

contretemps of daily life weigh most heavily.

She takes it too much to heart if her house is

not so spotlessly clean as she would like, or if

her well -planned arrangements have been upset,

and she finds it difficult to look at things from a

right perspective.

It requires some strength of will to grapple

against this spirit of worrpng and getting

depressed, but the home-maker ought to think

of others before herself and do her utmost to

keep these Uttle troubles in the background.

Health and happiness are a thousand times

more important than all the spotless homes in

the world, and to worry over every speck of dust,

over every broken dish, or such-Uke trifles will

only result in greater miseries, broken-down

nerves, and prematiu-e wrinkles and old age.

Home Touches. - ^The duties of the mistress

are not finished when the routine of household

work is set agoing and cleanliness and order

havo been established. The little finishing

touches, the smal^ elegances, the tasteful

arrangement, the special provision made for

individual comfort must come from her or be

wanting altogether. She must endeavovu" to

make the rooms as pretty as possible and give

to them an air of repose and restfulness. Who

does not know the difference between a room

that is merely kept in order by a servant and

one in which the lady of the house takes an

interest as weU. It is perhaps attention to the

small tilings of the house that has the most to

do with the comfort of it, and it is just these

minor details that require the most thought, as

they are outside the ordinary routine. If they

are neglected or forgotten all the cosiness, all

the home feeling and soothing influence will be

gone and bare utility alone will remain.

The true home-maker is also one who has the

intuitive power of divining the tastes and feelings

of others and who is ever ready to minister to

their needs. With a ready tact she will put

herself in the place of those around her, will be

able to perceive their unspoken worries and

disappointments, and sympathise with them

^vithout remark. She will even be able when

occasion arises to shield them from unkindly

notice or an ungenerous remark. Tact of this

kind is perhaps innate, and yet much of it may

be acquired by observation and kindly feeling.

Women are the real home-makers, and it rests

with them to make the four walls in which they

live something more than a mere dwelling.

Happy is the woman who can so surround her

own fireside with the true spirit of home, as to

make it the spot where the brightest and most

desirable of everything is to be found, a harbour

from all outside cares and worries ; she will find

that not alone to herself, but to those around

her as well, it has become the best place in the

world.

Duty towards Herself. - Last but not least, it

is the duty of the mistress to take care of herself

and attend to her health. However busy she

may be, she ought to contrive to have a period

of leisure and to be out of doors for some time

every day. Self-sacrifice in the cause of duty

may become almost a fetich with many women.

No woman, however, is justified in making

herself a domestic drudge. She confers no benefit

upon any one by being a slave to her family and

to her home. The best house-mistress is un-

doubtedly the one who allows herself time for

both relaxation and diversion, realising that with-

out it not only her health, but also her nerves

and her temper would suffer in the long run.

The head of the house must also find time for

her own toilet and make the best of her personal

appearance. There is no occasion for her to

wear costly apparel tinless she can afford it,

but she must always be neat and wear what

suits her and looks attractive. A lady cannot

expect servants to look up to her and pay

attention to their dress if she herself goes about

in slovenly attire ; in this, as in everything else,

she must be the example to be copied.

Beyond the Home. - We often hear it said that

if a woman does her duty in her own home this

is all that can be expected of her. But this is

a very narrow view to take of life, and such a

limited existence is bad not only for the woman

herself, but for the other members of her house-

hold as well. In fact, the reason that so many

heads of famiUes break down in health is because

they wrap themselves up too much in the cares

of their own household and worry so much over

every trifle that it ends in their requiring a rest

cure or something of the kind.

A woman ought, as a responsible member of

society, to use her powers to help and encoxu-age

those beyond the borders of her own home.

If she did this, even to a small extent, she

would find that the strain of constantly thinking

of household affairs was very much relieved,

and that she gained strength for renewed effort.

Then there are social duties to perform -

the paying of calls, the giving of entertainments,

the cultivation of friends, &c., and these are

claims which cannot be neglected. If we shut

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

ourselves up from our friends and live entirely

within our o^m small circle we very soon become

narrow-minded and end in being forgotten.

ENGAGING SERVANTS

There are several different ways of obtaining

servants. If one can be heard of by recom-

mendation, either tlirough friends or through a

servant in one's employment, tliis is certainly the

most satisfactory and easiest way, but it is only

occasionally that one is favoured by such a

chance.

Then there is the registry oflBce, which may or

may not be good. While there are offices of

high standing, where business is done in an

honest and upright manner, there are many

others whose deaUngs can by no means be

rehed upon. As a rule, city registry offices

are of little use for supplying servants for the

ordinary middle -class household, as they cater

more for hotels and other large estabhshments ;

and while they may have on their boolcs a long

list of butlers, cooks, lady's-maids, parlour-

maids, and other specialists in domestic service,

the cook-general, house-parlourmaid, or general

rarely seeks for a situation through that channel.

A good suburban registry office may, on the

other hand, render valuable assistance, especially

if a girl belonging to a special district is required.

A well-drawn-up advertisement inserted either

in a local paper or in a good general newspaper

with a wide circulation is one of the best means,

and this method often enables one to have a

better choice. The wording of the advertise-

ment must be concise, and at the same time it

must neither be vague nor misleading. A few

particulars as to requirements should be given,

and it should be stated whether the applicant

is to write or to apply in person and at what

hour. The following specimen advertisements

may serve as a guide to those who are inex-

perienced in this work : -

General Servant. - For small flat, three in

family, must understand plain cooking, no

washing. Wages £16-£18. Good health and

references essential. Apply after 4 p.m.

Cook General. - Wanted immediately, small

house, four in family. Wages £18-£20. Late

dinner. Age 25-30. Apply after 7 p.m.

Parlour- maid. - Wanted 1st July, good at silver

and needlework, a little housework. Age 22-28.

Wages £20-£25. Three servants. Apply

Young girls trained in domestic work can also

be obtained from charitable institutions, but

this plan should not be resorted to unless one

is prepared to devote a considerable amount of

time and trouble to their training. Although the

girls have had training of a kind in their institu-

tion, they are as a rule quite unaccustomed to

the nicfties of a private house, and are apt to

be very uncouth in their manners. There is

difficulty, too, in getting other servants to take

kindly to a girl of this class, and not infrequently

it proves an unhappy arrangement on both sides.

It is always wise to have a personal interview

with a ser\'ant before engaging her. This not

only helps tlio mistress to judge of her character

by her appearance, but it also enables the girl

to see the house to which she may be asked to

come, and gives her a better idea of the work

that will be expected of her.

The mistress should begin the interview by

asking the maid some questions as to what

experience she h£is had, how long she remained

in her last place, and what reason she had for

leaving it - what wage she had been hav-ing, and

what she would now expect. Some inquiries

should be made regarding the girl's family and

also whether she has good health or not. Atten-

tion should also be paid to her personal appear-

ance, whether she is clean and tidy in her

person, neatly and suitably dressed, and of a

prepossessing manner. If the information thus

obtained is in the main satisfactory, the mistress

should next give an outline of the duties she

would expect her to perform, and if after a little

mutual conversation the arrangement seems

hkely to suit both parties, details may be

entered into a little more fully.

A servant must never be engaged under false

pretences, and it is never a wise plan to make

things appear better than they really are. It is

better policy to make it quite clear what will be

expected in the way of work, so that there may

be no chance of futiore misunderstanding.

Some information should be given as regards

the habits and customs of the family, the number

of servants kept, and the amount of entertaining

likely to be done. Tlie mistress should also

state her wishes as regards dress, caps, aprons,

&c., and whether she will allow visitors or not.

The question of wages must also be discussed

and a clear statement must be given as to what

time will be allowed off and what holiday will

be given, also what notice must be given

should either party wish to terminate the

engagement. If a cook is being engaged, there

should be a clear understanding about perquisites.

The first conversation in a matter of this kind

counts for a great deal, and there is nothing like

making everything clear at the outset.

If a maid has been asked to come some dis-

tance in order to have this interview, it is usual

to pay her expenses.

With regard to references, a personal inter-

view with the maid's last employer should bo

obtained if possible. There are a few occasions

on which a written character may be safely

accepted, but these should be the exception

and not the rule, and written particulars should

be accepted with a certain amount of caution.

Besides, ladies will always give more information

verbally than they will by writing, and there is

always something to be gained by seeing the

house in which the girl has been previously

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

employed, as this also serves as an index as to

what has been expected of her in the way of

service. In fact, it is never a very wise plan

to take a servant who has been employed in

a house out of one's own rank in life. For

instance, a servant who has been employed by

a lodging-house keeper, by small trades-people,

or even in an hotel is not suitable for private

service with gentlefolk, as she would be unac-

customed to the ways of refined people. Each

branch of service has its own standard, and

what may be ideal in one Une of life, falls very

far below the ideal in another.

During the above interview the mistress should

ascertain the reasons for the maid leaving her

place and also her capacity for work. She must

also make inquiries as to her moral character,

whether she is clean, neat, good-tempered, also

whether she has good health and is an early riser.

If the answers to such inquiries prove to be

satisfactory and the mistress considers the girl

likely to suit her requirements, the next step

is to write to the maid or to ask for another in-

terview in order to fix the date of arrival, and

to make the final terms of engagement. In

Scotland and the North there is an old-fashioned

custom of giving arles or earnest money as a

token of engagement. The sum of 2s. or 2s. 6d.

is given to the maid as seahng the contract.

But this is merely an old custom and not a

necessity.

The usual custom of hiring a servant is from

month to month ; this means that they are paid

once a month and the engagement can be

terminated on a month's notice. (See Law of

Master and Servant, p. 377.)

Character-giving. - Although a mistress cannot

be compelled to give her servant a character, it

is customary to do so when a girl is leaving her

employment. The fact of refusing to grant a

reference would almost imply inability to testify

to any good qualities in the girl's character,

and this would be most prejudicial to her future

career.

A character must not, however, be given

lightly ; it is essential to state only what is true.

There must be no exaggeration either of the good

or of the bad points, and the mistress in search

of a maid must be considered as much as the

maid herself.

A mistress has no right to hide some serious

fault from a desire to give the girl a better

chance, but she must be absolutely frank and

impartial in every way. (See Law of Master and

Servant, p. 377.)

WAGES, ALLOWANCES, AND HOUDAYS

Wages. - The wages of an indoor servant

should be paid monthly, dating from the day

the maid enters your service. Or, for con-

venience sake, where there are several servants,

a fixed date may be chosen, say the 1st of the

month as general pay-day. In this case, the

odd days when a girl arrives would have to be

paid for separately. Wages must always be paid

regularly, and under no circumstances should

a servant be obhged to wait for her money.

The amount payable as wages varies very

much in different localities, and one has to

conform very much to custom in a thing of

this kind. The wages in town are usually

higher than those paid in the country.

The following table may serve as an approxi-

mate guide as to what is usually paid : -

Butler £45- £90

Housekeeper

Cook .

Cook-general

Parlour-maid

Housemaid .

House-Parlour-maid

Kitchen-maid

Scullery-maid. .

General Servant .

Lady's-maid

Footman

Valet .

Tweeney

Hall Boy .

30- 80

20- 40

18- 25

16- 25

16- 20

15- 25

12- 20

8- 14

10- 25

25- 50

20- 30

30- 50

10- 16

9- 12

Licences. - An annual Hcence is required for

each man-servant in addition to wages (see

p. 384).

Board Wages. - When servants are left in

charge of a house during the absence of the

family, or if they are sent away temporarily for

the same reason, it is usual to put them on board

wages. This means that in addition to their

regular wage they are paid a sum ranging from

7s. 6d. to 123. 6d. for a woman-servant, and from

12s. to 15s. for a man-servant per week as food

money. The amount varies according to the

style of Uving, and the district in which they

are Uving. Wlien several servants are left

it is very usual for them to club together and

for one, generally the cook, to do the catering ;

but this is a matter of arrangement amongst

themselves. If they are obhged to find their

own accommodation as well as board, an extra

allowance should be paid for lodging or the fare

paid to their own homes.

Food Allowances. - In a small household where

only one or two servants are kept it is not

usual to have food allowances. In fact, the

less difference there is made between the meals

of the family and those of the servants the better.

When there are several servants it is very

customary to make an allowance of such articles

as tea, butter, and sugar, but here, again, unless

there is a large estabhshment it is seldom wise

to make a difference in the quaUty of these

commodities, unless it be tea, where a special

brand such as China tea is frequently used for

the dining-room and another, better liked by

the domestics, is given for kitchen use. Other-

wise to give an inferior quality of anything to

the servants only leads to discontent, and. the

sa\'ing of expense is scarcely noticeable.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The usual allowances for tea, butter, and sugar

are the following : - J lb. tea, i lb. butter, and

1 lb. sugar per week for each servant.

As regards the different meals, the following

is a very usual rate of allowances : -

Breakfast. - Tea, bread and butter and por-

ridge (if wished) with some little addition, such

as dried fish, egg, or boiled bacon. There are

some houses whore this addition is not granted,

but this is poor fare when we consider that a

girl is expected to do a morning's work on the

strength of this early meal.

Lunch. - This is not a recognised meal, but

when breakfast is taken very early, a little

bread and butter, with a cup of milk or a cup of

cocoa, should not be denied, especially as some

girls are unable to take much breakfast.

Dinner. - Tliis meal is usually the same as the

dining-room lunch or early dinner, and consists

of moat with at least one vegetable, and pudding,

or soup and cold meat with a little cheese or

stewed fruit.

Tea. - Bread and butter with a little jam or

dripping cake in addition to tea.

Sapper. - Cocoa or coffee with bread and butter

and cheese, or the remains of any salad, savoury,

or simple pudding left from dinner. Meat is

never given unless there are men-servants, but

a basin of soup may sometimes take the place

of the cocoa or coffee.

Laondry Allowance. - If the washing is not

done at home, servants are usually allowed from

Is. to Is. 6d. for their laundry bill ; if the lesser

sum, some of the smaller articles would require

to be washed by themselves.

Holidays and Time Off Duty. - There is no hard-

and-fast rule as regards this, and it is best for

each mistress to arrange the naatter with her

maids. The usual allowance is an evening or

afternoon once a week with an afternoon and

evening on alternate Sundays ; while a fort-

night's holiday in the year is very general.

TREATMENT OF SERVANTS

It is most important that when a new servant

arrives, the house, or her department of it at

least, should bo in good order. It is very

disheartening to have to commence by cleaning

out cupboards and clearing away some one

else's disorder before any good work can be

started.

In small houses the mistress should take the

maid round and show her where her work

will be. and whore she will find the necessary

implements to perform it. A list of her duties

should be written on a card and hung in some

convenient place, such as the kitchen or pantry,

and it will be just aa well to have the time off

duty stated on the same card. The details of

the m:"id'8 work should be given her by degrees.

There is no use confusing the girl's mind by

telling her too much at once; the necessary

instructions for the first day^s work will be

quite sufficient to begin with. For the first few

days a Uttle patience and forbearance will be

necessary until the girl learns the ways of the

household and the wishes of her employer, and

allowance must be made if everything is not

done exactly as one would wish.

Then, lat"r on, though a mistress cannot ex-

pect perfection, it is her duty to see that the

work is properly and regularly done, and if

anything is wrong, to speak about it at once

and not allow it to shp. This should always

be done in a kindly spirit and without any

show of temper. In fact, if she is very much

annoyed about anything, it is much better to

wait until the first feeling of vexation has passed

over and she is able to speak calmly and firmly

without showing unnecessary vexation.

A servant should never be corrected before

a third person, neither should a message of re-

primand be sent through a child or a fellow-

servant.

Then, again, it is a bad plan to be constantly

going after a servant and doing oneself any

work that may have been slurred over or omitted.

Tliis is fi-equently done to save oneself the

trouble of speaking, but it will not make a

capable nor a reliable maid. A girl ought to

be given a reasonable amount of work to do

and then held responsible for its fulfilment ;

if it is found to be more than she can properly

do it is much wiser to relieve her of some of it

than to have the constant feeling of dissatis-

faction.

Above all things, a mistress must make an

effort to be absolutely fair and consistent, and

there should be nothing underhand in her deal-

ings. By these means she will have a bettor

chance of obtaining faithful service. A good

servant likes to feel that there is a firm hand

over her, and that the mistress notices whether

her work is well or badly done.

While reproof should be given when necessary,

praise must not be withheld when work is well

done. A word of commendation is very wel-

come to all of us. To those who clean oufrooms,

cook our food, brush our boots, &c., we cannot

be too grateful, as, at the best, it is monotonuiis

work, and one's maids are certainly due more

consideration than is frequently given. They

are not aU demons trjnng to " do us " at every

turn, but human, often very human, and they

should certainly be treated reasonably and their

rights respected.

As we exact and expect civility and courtesy

from our maids it is only fair that we should

render them the same. A fear of familiarity

should never be an excuse for a curt answer, nor

justify the omission of " please " from oui'

requests, nor a word of thanks for any service

rendered. Neither should we be reluctant to

wish them the common salutations of " good

morning " and " good night."

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

Servants who are treated with this courtesy

of manner will, as a rule, like their place and try

to render faithful service.

It is also fitting that well-perfoi-med duties

which tend to make the home happy and com-

fortable should be rewarded by Utile kind-

nesses- a gift now and then in acknowledgment

of some special service or at a special season,

such as Christmas or on return from a holiday,

or an occasional hoUday or treat. A httle

encouragement of this kind goes a long way

towards making the drudgery of housework

pleasant and easy.

One should not be backward either in raising

the wages of a girl who has worked well. If she

has been in our service for a year or eighteen

months, she is worth more than when she first

came, and the rise will be appreciated so much

more if it is given unsought. Then when a gift

is given, let it be something that shows a httle

kindly thought - a length of print, a mushn

apron, or a pair of stockings are very useful and

sensible, but they are not pretty, and every

girl who is earning a fair wage ought to be able

to afford these necessaries. How much nicer

would be a Uttle handbag and ptirse, a pretty

work-basket, a set of toilet brushes in a case,

or sometMng which she would not Ukely buy

herself, wliich would show the friendly thought

and serve as a httle keepsake.

There is much said nowadays about the dis-

like of the lower classes for domestic service.

One reason to account for this is the increased

education which they receive in the elementary

schools. This naturally creates a spirit of

independence and a wish to rise in the social

scale, which is not altogether unworthy. An

employer, to be successful, must therefore take

this new spirit into consideration and make

allowances for it by respecting the rights of those

who serve. Many mistresses fail to move with

the times, and cannot see that the requirements

of the working-classes are altering, and that

more hberty and more wages is demanded.

Fortunately, much is being done to raise

domestic service to a higher level, and it de-

pends very much upon the employers whether

these efforts succeed or not. If the mistress

herself despises household work, and allows it

to be seen that she looks down upon those who

do it, it will not be surprising if her domestics

cultivate the same ideas. On the contrary,

she ought to be able when necessary to take part

in the household work without in any Way losing

her dignity.

A lack of leisure and want of privacy are other

reasons for making domestic service unpopular.

It frequently happens that a maid has no time

she can call her own, and that she is continually

under the eye of her employer. Now although

there is no hmit regarding the working hours

of a servant, beyond the fact that she must be

allowed a sufficient time to sleep, this does not

entitle us to demand service without relaxation.

A certain amount of leisure must be granted

and then strictly adhered to. An effort, too,

should be made to make this leisure time happy

by letting servants have a comfortable place to sit

in. Often the only means of freedom from work

is to go out of the house, no matter what the

weather is hke. A few boolis or magazines or

even the daily paper sometimes might be passed

on to the kitchen with advantage.

Then a certain amo\int of privacy is due,

especially at meal times. Servants have a right

to take their meals free from interruption, and

they should not be called away if it can possibly

be avoided. Although a mistress should feel

free to enter her kitchen at any time, she ought

to choose her times for doing so and not be con-

tinually passing in and out. -

Allowing a servant her independence does not

prevent a mistress from taking a kindly interest

in her affairs, and she must remember, too, that

from the time the girl enters her house until the

hour she leaves it, she is morally, although not

legally, her guardian. It is an exception when a

girl resents being spoken to as a fellow-woman,

and yet some mistresses hesitate to do this

and thus fail to win respect and affection.

Servants should be encouraged to tell their little

ailments, and to say at once when they are not

feehng well. It should be seen that they go

to bed in good time and that they take proper

and sufficient food.

It is especially necessary in the case of a

young servant to exercise this supervision, and

particularly so if she has been brought a long

way from her own home and her own people.

Then it will be the duty of the mistress to ascer-

tain where she is going to spend her time off.

In fact an " evening out " should scarcely be

granted unless she has friends to go to or can

go out with a fellow-servant. An effort should

rather be made to let her go out during the day

until she has made the acquaintance of some

respectable girls with whom she can be trusted.

A word might be said here about servants'

bedrooms. The places in which some maids

are asked to sleep are a disgrace to civilisa-

tion, and not infrequently it is in the houses of

the wealthy that the worst accommodation is

found - underground bedrooms which, besides

being dark and airless, are sometimes damp eind

insanitary as well. For her own sake as well

as theirs a mistress should see that her maids

are provided with proper sleeping quarters, and

each servant mtist have her own bed, a good

mattress, and sufficient covering. The room

itself should be hght and airy, and it must be

cleaned and attended to in the same way as the

other rooms of the house. A servant herself

is not always fastidious and particular about

her room, and will sometimes be lax as regards

the cleaning of it, but none the less we must

see that sufficient tirne is given to clean it and

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

that our wishes in this respect are carried out.

There is no reason either why the servants' bed-

room should be the only ugly room in the house -

a place to hang useless pictures and store un-

sightlj' pieces of furniture. A pretty wall-paper

or, better still, a washable distemper of a nice

colour, a nice clean coverlet on the beds, tidy

furniture, &c., is a training in itself and helps

to increase the girl's seK -respect.

And, finally, let us treat our servants with a

spirit of trust and confidence, and we shall

seldom have reason to regret it. For instance, a

too strict locking up of daily necessaries is not

always a good plan, as it shows a lack of con-

fidence which a good servant will often resent,

while a dishonest one will find a way of being

dishonest whatever precautions we may take,

and she is better out of the house. Besides,

for one's own sake, it is bad to live in an atmos-

phere of suspicion and watchfulness. Human

nature is the same all round ; the best in us

responds to trust, and the worst rises to the sur-

fewje if we are constantly being rubbed the

wrong way. Servants, like other people, would

often do better if they were trusted more.

DUTIES OF SERVANTS

In drawing up a scheme of servants' duties

it is not possible to make a plan wliich wiU

suit all requirements, as every household has

its own individual arrangements and no two

are exactly ahke. All that can be done is to

furnish a broad outline of the work which

requires to be done, and the following para-

graphs must be looked upon as suggestive only.

It is to be hoped that they will serve as a guide

to the inexperienced and help them with their

manage until they have gained sufficient know-

ledge to make their own plan.

The amount of work to be done before break-

feist by the different maids must depend upon

the hour of that meal, and if before 8.30 or

9 o'clock some of the duties put down in the

following lists must be delayed until later in

the morning.

There has been little or no provision made for

home washing, but where this is undertaken it

must be looked upon as the special work of the

day and time given for it in accordance with the

amount to be done.

The exact time for doing the various pieces

of work has not been stated, because, as a rule,

it is a bad plan to tie a worker down in this

way and to say that a certain piece of work has

to take a certain time, and so on ; it makes

her grow into a sort of working machine, and

takes away from her all responsibility.

If the servant is active she has no inducement

to work quickly if she finds that her spare

moments are just filled up with more work, and,

on the othor hand, if she is slow it is very dis-

couraging to find that her work is never finished

at the time oxi)ected.

The Cook. - The cook, as her name impUes,

is the one who prepares and cooks the food of

the household. She is the chief servant in the

kitchen, where she reigns supreme.

There are different grades of cooks. First we

have the Professed Cook, who is only found in

lajge estabUshments. In former years a chef

or man cook frequently filled this post, but

women cooks have now come more to the fore,

and a chef is rarely employed in a private

manage. Tlie professed cook has always one

or two maids under her - (kitchen-maid and

scullery-maid) - to whom she assigns the cleaning

of the kitchen premises, the preparation, and

possibly the cooking of vegetables, the cooking

and serving of servants' meals and also nursery

meals if there are such, while she devotes herself

to the higher branches of cookery only, assists

the mistress in drawing up the necessary menus,

and orders the stores required for her department.

She does no cleaning nor housework, but is

waited on by her underUngs.

Then we have the Good Plain Cook, who in

large households, where there are a number of

meals to be served, will undertake all the cooking

that is required and the cleaning of the kitchen

and kitchen premises. Sometimes she will have

the help of a charwoman once a week to do the

heavy cleaning or scrubbing, or that of a

" tweeney," a young girl who divides her time

between the house and the kitchen, working

generally londer the housemaid in the morning

and under the cook from lunch time onwards.

She may or may not undertake the cleaning of

her own bedroom, but beyond that will do no

work in other parts of the house.

And finally we have the Cook-General, who is

usually found in middle-class households, where

only two or three servants are kept. Her

duties extend somewhat beyond the kitchen.

She is expected to take some share in house-

work proper, such as the cleaning of the dining-

room or library, the cleaning of the front hall,

door-step, and brasses, and to give some assist-

ance to the housemaid.

Qualifications Necessary. - There are certain

quaUties necessary to the making of a good

cook, whatever her grade may be. She must

first of all have some knowledge of cookery

more or less extensive according to what is

required of her. She should at least know

thoroughly what she professes, and if it be only

the simplest cookery, it must be good of its kind,

palatable, and nicely served. She must also be

punctual in all her duties, and especially so in

the serving of meals. There is nothing which

upsets the ways of a household so much £is having

meals served at uncertain hours, and for this

the cook is usually responsible.

It is edso important that a cook be clean and

tidy in her work. All the kitchen premises and

utensils should be kept spotlessly clean, and

while cooking is going on there should be tidy-

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

ing up and clearing away at the same time.

An untidy and littered kitchen is very dispirit-

ing for other servants, even if the cook herself

does not mind the disorder. No good work

can be done in a muddle ; in fact, the best cooks

make the least mess and use the fewest utensils.

The kitchen should be tidied up after every

meal and made to look as bright and comfort-

able as possible, especially in the afternoon

when the heavy part of the day's work is usually

over.

A cook should also be an early riser. With her

rests the lighting of the kitchen fire, upon which

the hot-water supply for early morning baths,

&c., depends, not to speak of the cooking of the

breakfast. The amount of actual work done

before breakfast will naturally depend upon the

hour at which the meal is served, but unless

an early start is made the cooking of the break-

fast will be hurried and unsatisfactory, the

water will only be tepid, and the rest of the work

will be behindhand all day. The other servants,

too, look to the cook as an example of what is

required in this respect, and if she rises late

the others wiU doubtless follow her lead.

Method and forethought are also valuable

quahties for a cook to possess, as by their practice

the labours of the day can often be considerably

lightened. In cooking so many little things

can be prepared in advance, and if the bill of

faxe is known a day beforehand one day's work

can often be fitted in with another's. Then,

when it comes to the actual cooldng of the meal,

the cook must consider carefully what dish

requires the longest time, and so arrange that

everything is ready at the hour appointed.

Forethought, too, in the ordering of stores and

provisions may save many a worry and bustle

at the last minute. Then, again, in the matter

of breakfast it is often possible to prepare what

has to be cooked the night before, so that if

anything should happen in the morning to make

her a httle late, the first meal may still be

prepared with a calm mind.

And last, but not least, a cook ought to have

consideration for her fellow-servants, and al-

though the kitchen is her domain, there is no

reason why it should ever be a place where

others are afraid to enter, and where she acts as

tyrant. On the contrary, she should do her

best to make the place cosy and comfortable

for them, as it is often their only resting-place

when they have a Uttle leisure to sit down. It

is the cook's duty, too, to see that the kitchen

meals are served properly, and while it is right

that she should have no interference with the

larder, she must pro\'ide a sufficient supply of

well-cooked food and that which has been

ordered bj' the mistress herself. A word of

warning, too, is sometimes required to cooks

who have young servants working under them,

as they are often tempted to put an undue

amount upon tliem, especially of the heavy

work, while she herself does only what requires

Mttle output of strength.

Personal Appearance. - A cook should pay

special attention to her personal appearance,

and specially from the point of view of cleanH-

ness and neatness. Her hair must at all times

be neat and not allowed to come beyond bounds.

There is nothing more revolting than to see a

woman preparing food with her hair hanging

round her head in an untidy fashion, or, what

is worse still, brushing or combing her hair in a

kitchen.

A cook should always try to keep her hands

in good condition, and they must always be

washed before any cooking is commenced.

Gloves should be worn when doing any dirty

work, such as the flues, the grates, and the

cleaning of tins. In winter-time, if the skin

is inclined to become very rough, a little gly-

cerine should be rubbed in occasionally.

A dress of washing material, such as print,

drill, or galatea should be worn in the early peurt

of the day ; in fact, there is a large amount of

cooking to be done in the evening, and as the cook

is not expected to leave her kitchen, it is very

usual for her to remain in her cotton dress.

Or she may if she chooses wear a hght print

dress in the morning, changing to a darker

cotton one in the afternoon. Cotton, being

easily washed, is a much more suitable material

for Idtchen use than any woollen stuS.

The dress must be short enough to clear the

ground by two inches. White linen aprons

with bibs should be worn while cooking, and

these should be furnished with a good-sized

pocket. White hnen sleeves, too, are sometimes

slipped on, but a shorter dress sleeve or one

that can be well rolled up is in many ways

preferable, as the white sleeves to the wrist

become very soon soiled, and in warm weather

are very heating. A strong coarse apron should

be donned while doing the rougher work or

standing at the sink. A neat and simple cap

should also be worn. If the cook has very Uttle

cooking to do in the evening, it is usual for her

to dress in a dark navy blue or black dress, and

to wear a muslin apron hke the other house-

servants. Tidy and comfortable shoes shoiild

be worn at all times.

Duties of the Cook. - It is the duty of the cook

to do all the cooking that is required either

single-handed or with the help of a kitchen-

maid or scullery-maid. Then beyond this her

duties will vary according to the mmaber of

servants kept and the style of living of the

household.

Although it is impossible to draw out a plan

which will suit all cases, the following table of

duties may serve as a guide where the cook takes

a share in the work of the house. In larger

establishments where the cook's ser\'ices are

entirely confined to the kitchen it is very easy

to delete the other duties, and the order of the

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

remaining work would continue in very much

the same way.

Duties of the Cook-General. - Rise at six, strip

bed, and leave bodroom airing. Dowiistairs at

6.30. Open up kitchen premises and air where

necessary. Light kitchen fire and clean range.

(If the boiler is not a self-filling one, it should

be filled the night before.) Fill kettles with

water, and if there is anything for breakfeist

which requires long cooking, such as porridge,

put this on to cook before leaving the kitchen

and leave other tilings ready for breakfast as

far as possible.

Then go to dining-room, draw up bUnds and

open windows, clean fire-place and light fire if

necessary. Sweep room with carpet-sweeper,

dust it carefully and fill coal-box. Sweep and

dust hall, clean doorstep and brasses and shake

mats.

Then serve kitchen breakfast and prepare

what is required for the dining-room. Clean

gentlemen's boots and sweep any backstairs or

passages.

Qear away dining-room breakfast things, and

take up crumbs. Wash all or some of the

dishes.

Tidy kitchen and larder, and be ready to

receive mistress. In the forenoon prepare and

cook early dinner or luncheon and prepare late

dinner as far as possible. Dust and tidy cook's

bedroom and commence any special work of the

day.

Answer the front-door bell untU 1 o'clock, wliile

the housemaid is engaged upstairs, and attend

to any messages which come to the back-door.

Serve lunch, then kitchen dinner and wash

up, leaving kitchen tidy. It is usual for the

cook to wash the dinner service used in the

dining-room, although glass and silver are done

by the housemaid. Finish special work of the

day, and dress if there is no late dinner or a very

simple one. Kitchen tea.

Prepare and cook late dinner or supper and

coffee if ordered. Wash up (this can often be

done while the meal is going on, and need not

be a troublesome matter). Ivitchen supper.

Leave everything tidy for the night and fuel

ready for lighting fire in the morning. The back-

door should be locked as soon as it is dark and

windows the last thing before going to bod.

Bed at 10 o'clock.

Special Weekly Duties. - Besides the daily

routine some special cleaning should be under-

taken each day so as to keep all in order.

This might be arranged in somewhat the

following manner : -

.Vo';u/av- Downstairs windows.

rtte^dai/- Backstairs and passages.

Wediiesday- Clean dining-room and hall alternate

weelcs.

77i"r"daj/- Clean tins, brasses.

Frida}/- Larder and cupboards.

.Saturday- Kitchen (flues before breakfast).

Notes. - The above plan prc^iiipposos that the

dining-room breakfast is at 8.30; if eai'Uer some

of the housework must be left until that meal

is over.

It is sometimes customary for the cook-

general to help the housemaid with the beds

except when there are young ladies in the house,

when they generally undertake this piece of work.

The clearing of the breakfast-table and wash-

ing of some of the dishes is also frequently done

by the ladies of the house, especially if the family

is large and only two maids are kept.

The cook-general is often expected to do some

washing, such as all the kitchen towels and

dusters, her o\vn we.shing, and sometimes the

flannel washing as well. When this is the case,

this should be done on Monday or Tuesday and

be regarded as the special work of the day. It

should be started as early in the forenoon as

possible, the cooking being made as simple as

possible that day, and a little extra help might

be given by members of the household.

The cook-general is also expected to take the

housemaid's duties when the latter has her

evening out or her free time.

The Nurse. - See under Section " The Child."

The Housemaid. - A housemaid is employed to

do work about the house and more especially

in the bedrooms and sitting-rooms. This work

will vary according to the number of servants

kept and the style of hving. In larger estab-

lishments where there are many bedrooms and

a constant coming and going of visitors, there

may be several housemaids - an upper house-

maid and two or three under -housemaids. In

this case the upper housemaid would be respon-

sible for and supervise all the work done in the

bedrooms and sitting-rooms, although most of

the actual cleaning and all the rough work would

be undertaken by the junior maids.

The upper housemaid would do the lighter ami

more difficult work in the principal rooms, would

see that the bedrooms were properly prepared

for guests, answer the bedroom bells, and

attend to the wants of the ladies of the house.

Sometimes she is required to act as lady's-

maid to her mistress if there is no special maid

for this purpose. She would take charge of

the bed-linen, giving out the necessary supplies,

and keeping an accurate account of the stock.

She would also take charge of all curtains and

hangings, cushion-covers and table-covers, see

that the suitable articles were in use and all

kept in good order. She might also have time

for some of the mending.

It would be her duty to take early tea and

water into the principal rooms in the morning,

and again give the necessary attendance in these

rooms throughout the day and in the evening.

Some of the locking up at night might also

fall to her share.

The under housemaids would do all the

cleaning proper, such as the sweeping, dusting.

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

and scrubbing. The cleaning of the bath-

rooms, lavatories, and housemaids' pantry, the

cleaning of all grates and the Ughting of fires.

If there is a school-room or nursery it would be

the duty of one of them to do all the cleaning

and waiting required in that department. The

junior maid would also have charge of the

servants' bedrooms and back staircase. The

boot cleaning, too, would be shared by the under-

housemaid unless there was a boy or man em-

ployed for the purpose.

In smaller households where only two or three

servants are kept, the housemaid will have to

do the work of the bedrooms single-handed,

and the sitting-rooms are generally divided

between the different maids. She may or may

not have some mending to do ; this will depend

upon the extent of her other duties,

A single housemaid is also expected to give the

parlour-maid some assistance in waiting at table

and ans^^'e^ing of bells, and to take her duties

during off-duty times.

She will also have the cleaning of ladies' and

any childreii's boots.

The House-parlourmaid combines the duties

of housemaid and tablemaid, and, in addition

to her house duties, she will have charge of the

table, i.e. the setting and clearing of the table

for all meals, all the waiting required, and the

washing of the silver, glass, and china. She

should answer all front-door bells after one

o'clock and might have to undertake a Mttle

washing. The cook may or may not give some

assistance -with the housework.

Qualifications Necessary. - A housemaid must

be clean, orderly, and an early riser. Much of

the comfort of the household depends upon

getting a fair amount of cleaning done before

breakfast. She must b, quiet and unobtrusive

in her work and make as little disturbance as

possible with her cleaning. She must be polite

and courteous in her manner and always respect-

ful. She must also be methodical, arranging

her work so that too much does not fall to one

day and not sufficient to others.

Dress and Appearance. - A housemaid should

at all times be neat and tidy in appearance, and

pay particular attention to her hair and the

cleanUness and freshness of her person.

In the morning she should be dressed in a

neat print dress with a plain white apron with

bib, a linen collar, and a simple cap with cambric

frill. A coarser apron may be put on when

doing any rough work, and a pair of gloves

while cleaning the grates. In the afternoon the

cotton dress should be changed for the orthodox

dress of some black woollen material, plainly

made, but neat fitting with tight sleeves and of

a smart walldng length. A muslin apron should

then be worn with a becoming cap and turn-

down collar and cuffs visually fastened with

bows of black ribbons. Quiet shoes should be

worn at all times.

Duties of tlie Housemaid. - (Three maids -

cook, housemaid, and paj-lour-maid.) Rise at

6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave room

airing.

Open up drawing-room or any other sitting-

room under her care, clean fire-place, sweep

and dust room, and light fire if necessary.

Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the

bedrooms and early cups of tea if required.

Prepare baths. Ivitchen breakfast. Clean front

hall and doorsteps unless done by cook, clean

any boots, make her own bed, and tidy bed-

room.

While family are at breakfast go into bed-

rooms, and see that windows are open and beds

left to air. Then empty slops and attend to the

wash-stands. Make beds with the parlour-

maid's help. Dust bedrooms and put them in

order and then do special work of the day.

Kitchen dinner. Dress. In the afternoon

finish off any Ughter pieces of work which are

not dirty, and do mending if required.

Kitchen tea. In the evening take hot water

to the bedrooms half-an-hour before dinner is

served. Draw dowTi blinds, and Ught up at

dark, closing windows if required.

During dinner it is usual for the housemaid to

do the carrying of the dishes from the kitchen

to the dining-room and vice versci, so that the

parlour-maid may never require to leave the

room, and also to give what assistance she

can with the waiting. When dinner is over,

retiim to the bedrooms, empty slops, and give

fresh supply of water, turn down beds and lay

out clothes for the night ; remove any dirty

boots and see that all is in order.

Kitchen supper. Bed at ten o'clock.

Special Weekly Work

Monday- C\ea.n drawing-room and spare bedroom

alternately.

Collect and count washing.

Tuesday- GXe^n two bedrooms.

IFedn€"daj/- Clean servants' bedrooms and housemaid's

pantry.

Thiirsday-Cle&n bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.

jPridai/- Clean library or morning-room and front hall,

unless done by the cook.

Saturday- Yat away linen from washing and make

things generally tidy for Sunday.

Duties of the House-parlourmaid. - (Two maids,

cook general, and house -parlourmaid.) Rise at

6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave

room to air.

Sweep and dust drawing-room or librarj',

and light fire if required. (The dining-room is

done by the cook.)

Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the

bedrooms and call the family.

Kitchen breakfeist. Lay sitting-room break-

fast and clean boots, serve breakfast. Empty

slops and see that beds are left airing. Ehist

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

and tidy own bedroom. Clear brealdast-table

and wash up, vuiloss this is done by the cook.

Make beds with the assistance of the cook or

some member of the family.

Dust and tidy bedrooms and proceed to special

work of the day. Dress by one o'clock. Set

the table and serve lunch or eaaly dinner.

Kitchen dinner. Clear the dining-room table,

take up crumbs and leave room tidy. Wash

up silver and glass and finish any light work.

Answer front -door boll in the afternoon and

evening and indoor bells all day.

Prepare and take in afternoon tea. Kitchen

tea. Wash up afternoon tea things.

Draw down blinds, close windows (if required),

and light up at dusk.

Lay dinner-table and serve dinner. Wait at

table, clear and w£ish up. Serve coffee if

required.

Attend to bedrooms, emptying slops, laying

down beds, and removing any dirty boots.

Ktchen supper. Bod at ten o'clock.

Special Weekly Duties

Monday - Clean drawing-room or spare bedroom alter-

nately.

Collect and count washing.

Tuesday- Clea,n one or two bedrooms.

Wednesday- Clean bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.

r?"ur"iat/- Clean servants' bedroom and pantries

Friday- C1ea.n silver and brasses.

iSafwrdai/- Put away washing and tidy up generally.

The Parlour-maid. - A parlour-maid or table-

maid's chief duty is to look after the table and

see to the serving of all meals. It is a very

important position, and one which would be

filled by a butler in houses where men-servants

were employed.

The parlour -maid takes the sole charge of the

silver, glass, china, and other valuables in daily

use, and is mistress of the pantry. She also has

chsu-ge of the sideboard, the wine, cake, fruit,

&c., and sees that fresh supplies are ordered as

required.

The care of the table-linen will be another of

her duties. She must see that the table is

suflBciently supplied, and that anacciu-ate account

is kept of the stock. The mending, too, might

be done by her if time permitted.

A parlour-maid usually undertakes the cleaning

of one or two sitting-rooms, usually the drawing-

room and one other smaller room as well. She

attends to the sitting-room fires, and lamps and

candles if used.

She answers the front-door boll throughout the

day, unless relieved for part of the time by the

housemaid, and announces all visitors.

She may also be responsible for the floral

decorations of the table and for the arrangement

of lowers and plants throughout the house,

vmlods the mistress herself undertakes this piece

of work.

If there is no man-servant the peu-lour-maid

valets her master, attending to the brushing of

his clothes and the cleaning of his boots. If

there is no lady's-maid she may be called upon

to wash up and do lace and other fine articles

belonging to her mistress and also any fancy

articles, such as d'oyleys and tray-oloths for

table use.

She might also be called upon to assist the

housemaid with bed-making, and would do

housemaid's duties in the latter's off-duty times.

She is usually responsible for the shutting of

the sitting-room windows .\t night and the

front door, unless done by some member of

the family.

Personal Appearance and Requirements. - A

parloior-maid should be tall and elegant in appear-

ance and rather slight, so that she can move

about easily and be graceful in her movements.

The dress, wliich is similar to that worn by the

housemaid, must be neatly made and fit well,

and the apron, collar, cuffs, and cap must always

be spotlessly clean, and especially so when the

maid is waiting at table.

A paxlour-maid should pay particular attention

to her hands, in order to have them nice for

giving attendance to the members of the family,

and her hair should be neatly done without

being too elaborate or fussy in style. She

must be orderly and punctual in all her doings,

and have a thorough knowledge of waiting at

table and other table requirements.

As a parlour-maid comes into such close con-

tact with the family, the post can only be filled

by a woman who is capable and conscientious,

and who has the interests of her master and

mistress at heart. Her manner must be

pleasant and respectful at all times, she must

know how to receive and address people of

refinement, and be able to give in an intelligent

way any information that may be required.

Daily Duties of Parlour- maid. - Rise at 6 or

6.30, according to time of breakfast. Dress,

turn down bed and leave room to air.

Open up sitting-rooms under her charge,

light fires if necessary, and do the sweeping and

dusting. Give any attendance required by the

master of the house and clean his boots.

Ejtchen breakfast. Then set sitting-room

breakfast-table and make toast, tea and coffee

unless done by the cook. Serve breakfast and

wait if required. Finish any work in the sitting-

rooms. Clear breakfast-table, take up crumbs,

and leave room in order. Help housemaid with

bods. (This might be done before the clearing

of the table if breakfast is a very prolonged

meal, but at the same time the beds should be

left sufficient time to air.)

Dust and put in order her own bedroom, un-

less done by the housemaid. Wash up dishes,

including silver. Sec that all cruets are filled

ready for the next meal, also jam and sugar

dishes attended to, and butter rolled or made

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

into pats. Attend to the sideboard and see

that the necessary wine is decanted, and that

fruit and cake dishes are clean and tidy. Make

a note of any stores required. Attend to any

floral decorations and water-plants. Attend

to lamps and candles if used in the sitting-

rooms.

Dress by one o'clock, in time to lay luncheon

table. IMake up sitting-room fire, and put

room in order before setting the table. Serve

luncheon and wait as required.

Kitchen dinner. After dinner clear luncheon

from sitting-room table, leave room in order,

and wash up. If time permits, do mending in

the afternoon or a little ironing. Take in after-

noon tea and attend to all visitors. Light

up sitting-rooms at dusk and draw down

blinds.

Kitchen tea. Prepare for dinner, lay table,

and at the appointed time announce the meal

in the drawing-room or sound a bell or gong.

Wait at table either alone or assisted by the

housemaid. Carve if required. Then clear and

wash up. Serve coSee or any other refreshment

that may be required.

Kitchen supper. Bed at ten P.M.

Special Weekly Duties

3/onda2/- Collect and count table linen, wash out towels,

dusters, wash-leathers, &c., and give special

attention to plants.

Tuesday- Clean drawing-room or other sitting-room.

Wednesday- C\ea.n second sitting-room (moming-room

or library) or assist housemaid with special

cleaning.

Thursday- CleSin silver.

Friday- Clesin pantry and her own bedroom, or any

brasses and other ornaments.

Saturday- CoMiit and put away washing, general tidying

up ana preparations for Sunday.

The General Servant. - The general servant is

employed to do the entire work of the house,

except that which is undertaken by the mistress

herself or some other member of the family.

If the household consist of more than two or

thi-ee persons it will be necessary for the mistress

to give a considerable amount of help, if the

work is to be done properly. She may either

do the cooking or the lighter parts of the house-

work, such as dusting, laying the table, washing

of silver and glass, &c. ; this depends entirely

upon her own tastes and inchnations.

Although a general servant cannot be ex-

pected to be an expert in all branches of house-

hold work, she ought to have a good all-round

knowledge and be able to cook simple dishes in

a wholesome and appetising manner.

Her work need not necessarily be harder than

that of another servant who only performs

special duties, but it must be systematically

arranged, and she must be quick and active if

the day's proceedings are to be carried through

in a satisfactory manner. A general servant

is not infrequently looked down upon as holding

an inferior position, a sort of " jack of all trades

and master of none " ; but this entirely depends

upon the maid herself and upon the house in

which she serves. If she does her work well,

she is a most valuable person, and her position,

if conscientiously fiUed, may become one of

trust. If she has the good fortune to be em-

ployed by a kind and considerate mistress, her

life should be a very happy one. She will enter

into much closer relationship with the family

than it is possible to do where there are several

servants, and she will get full credit for all her

work. A good general is always particular

about her personal appearance ; the fact of

being busy should never be an excuse for having

a dirty and dishevelled appearance ; in fact,

this state only denotes a slovenly worker. It

ought also to be a source of pleasiu-e to be

dressed in good time in the afternoon. The

dress should be that worn by any other house

servant, i.e. a nice print dress in the morning,

with a white linen apron, linen collar, and cap,

and a black or dark blue dress in the afternoon

with a muslin apron and more dressy cap. A

coarse apron or overall should always be kept

at hand to sUp on when doing any dirty

work.

Daily Duties. - ^Rise at 6 or 6.30, dress, turn

down bed and leave room to air. Unbolt door,

draw up bhnds and open kitchen and sitting-

room windows. Light kitchen fire and tidy

grate. FiU kettle and put on porridge if re-

qtiired. Clean boots, sweep and dust sitting-

room, lighting fire if necessary. Sweep and

dust hall and clean doorstep and brasses. (If

breakfast is at an early hour this may be left

until later.) Prepare sitting-room breakfast and

have kitchen breakfast.

Empty slops and air bedrooms. Tidy and

dust her own bedroom. Clear breakfast-table,

wash up and tidy kitchen. Take orders for the

day.

Make beds with assistance, dust and tidy bed-

rooms, and sweep and dust stairs. I^epare

early dinner or lunch and do special work for the

day. (If late dinner is the rule, the mid-day

meal should be as simple as possible, and most

of the cooking should be prepared in the

morning.)

Serve lunch and have early dinner. Clear

and wash up. When kitchen has been tidied,

change dress, attend to any light duties in the

afternoon, and serve tea. Attend to all bells

promptly. Serve supper or dinner at the hour

appointed, and do what waiting is required.

Clear and wash up and have kitchen supper.

Light up at dusk, draw down blinds, and close

windows as required. After dinner tvu-n down

beds and attend to the bedrooms. Collect

sticks and coals for the morning. Bed at

ten P.M.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Special Weekly Duties

J/OTuiai/- Wash towels and dusters, &c. (Heavy washing

can scarcely be undertaken unless the maid

is relieved of most of her other work for the

forenooa.)

TuAKfay- Clean drawing-room and dining-room alternate

weeks.

Wednesday- Cle&n bath-room, staircase, and hall.

Thursday- Clean bedrooms.

Friday- Clean pantry, larder, and any back premises,

also siiver and tins alternate weeks.

Saturday- Clean kitchen.

The Housekeeper. - The housekeeper is the

representative of hor mistress, and in large house-

holds she fulfils the duties which naturally fall

to the mistress herself in a smaller manage.

This leaves the lady of the house free to attend

to social and other claims.

The housekeeper is second in command, and

answerable only to the head of the house. She

engages and dismisses servants and pays their

wages - with the exception of the nurse and

lady's-maid - arranges their work, and is respon-

sible in every way for their appearance and

behaviour and the fulfilment of their duties.

The housekeeper is responsible for the proper

keeping of the house in every part, and she

sees to the needs and comfort of the whole family

and domestic staff.

She orders and gives out all stores, keeps

£iccounts, and pays the bills. If there is a butler

he reheves lier of some of those duties, and he is

always responsible for the men-servants.

The hoiosekeeper should see her employer at

stated times in order to give in a report of the

various departments, and also to receive her

instructions and learn her wishes.

The housekeeper has always her own sitting-

room in which her meals are served by one of

the under - maids, except dinner, which she

usually takes with the other servants.

Her sitting-room may be shared by some of

the upper servants, such as the lady's-maid, the

butler, and the valet.

The Butler. - The position of butler is usually

one of great trust. He is head of the men-

servants, is responsible for the work of those

under him, arranges their off-duty time, and

often engages them as well.

He has sole charge of the wine collar, and

gives out the wine required, keeping a note of

the stock, and frequently seeing to the buying

in of supplies.

To his care is confided the silver and otlier

articles of value in daily use.

He is responsible for the arrangement of all

meals and the table appointments. He an-

nounces when meals are ready, puts the dishes

on the table or does the carving, pours out the

wine, and waits assisted by a footman or parlour-

maid.

He is responsible for the care of the billiard-

room and smoking-room or library, and the

fires and lighting arrangements of the other

rooms.

If single-handed, his duties would be very

much the same as those already detailed for the

house-parlourmaid. If there is no valet he

waits upon his master. He also looks after any

carriage or motor rugs and lamps, and in the

country would be responsible for shooting and

picnic lunches.

When there is no housekeeper the butler

frequently pays the bills and does the marketing.

He usually goes out every day.

The butler is also responsible for the shutting

up of the house.

In the early part of the day his dress should

be dark trousers and waistcoat and black tail

coat, with a white front and collar and black tie

- in the evening the regulation dress suit with a

white tie.

The Footman. - The footman is generally an

all-round useful man and his duties may be

very varied. If there is a butler, he would

work under him, but in houses where he is the

only man-servant his duties might be somewhat

after the following : -

He would clean boots and shoes, knives and

windows, fetch coal and see to the filling of

coal-scuttles and the keeping up of fires.

He would lay the table and wait, assisted by

a parlour-maid or housemaid, and wash up the

silver, glass, and china after each meal.

He would valet his master and go out with the

carriage if required, attending to any rugs.

The charge of lamps and window - plants

would also fall to his share. He would answer

bells, announce visitors, and take in afternoon

tea.

He would also be responsible for the locking

up of the house at night.

A footman may or may not wear livery. If

this is not supplied it is usual to give two suits

in the year, either new or from Ms master's

wardrobe.

The Lady's - maid. - Tlie lady's - maid devotes

herself to the personal requirements of her

mistress and looks after her needs in every

way.

She undertakes the charge of her wardrobe

and sees that all her belongings are kept in

good order and proper repair.

She assists her mistress v.'ith her toilet, helps

her to dress and undress, brushes and dresses

her hair, selects and lays out the clothes she is

going to wear.

She does any packing and unpacking and

travels with her mistress when required.

She requires a bedroom for herself, which is

sometimes fitted as a bed-sitting-room, where

she can do her sewing and other work.

She will keep her own and her mistress's

room in order, do the dusting, and make the

beds with some assistance ; but she will not

be expected to clean grates nor do any hard

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

cleaiiijig, and she will take no part in general

housework.

If well filled the post of lady's-maid is no

sinecure, as a varied knowledge is necessary to

do all that is required. A woman who under-

takes this work inust be able to sew well in

order that she may both make and mend neatly.

She must also have some knowledge of dress-

making and millinery so as to be able to alter and

renovate, to change the style of an evening dress,

to make a tasteful bow, retrim a hat or bonnet,

or give the necessary finishing touches to a

lady's toilet. She must be a woman of taste,

and be able to give advice as to the choice of

dresses, &c.

She ought to know enough laundry work to

enable her to wash and do up laces and silks and

musUn, wash shawls and feather boas, and other

fancy articles.

She must be a good hair-dresser, and if a

fashionable coiffure is required, it is a good plan

to take a lesson occasionally from a first-class

hairdresser in order to learn the newest

modes.

If she travels with her mistress a knowledge

of languages, especially French, is invaluable,

and she should know how to make travelling

arrangements, see to tickets and luggage, and

be responsible for the exchange of money.

A lady's-maid wears no uniform, but ought

to be quietly and neatly dressed when in attend-

ance on her mistress.

Her manner must be pleasant and respectful,

and she must know how to exercise self-control.

As she comes into such close contact with the

private life of her mistress, it is her duty to give

her faithful and loyal service as long as she

remains in her employment.

The Valet. - The valet attends to the personal

wants of his master just as the lady's-maid waits

upon her mistress. He helps him with his

dressing, and takes fxill charge of his wardrobe,

brushes his clothes, cleans his boots, and attends

to any repairs.

He sees that his master's wash-stand and

toilet-table are supplied with the necessary

requisites, and is responsible for all his belongings

being kept in order and in the proper place.

He must know how to pack and unpack, and

if he travels with his master he must know how

to make all arrangements, take tickets, and see

to luggage, &c.

The valet is sometimes expected to give

assistance in waiting at table.

The Laundry-maid. - The laundry-maid is re-

sponsible for the washing and dressing of the

household linen.

She will have full charge of the laundry, seeing

that it is kept clean and in perfect order. Slie

will also be responsible for all the Unen con-

fided to her care.

If the family is not large, she may be expected

to take part in some of the housework as well.

(For fuller details of her duties see Guide to

Laundry Work, p. 271.)

The Scullery-maid. - The scullery-maid ranks

lowest amongst the kitchen servants, and if there

is a kitchen-maid she works under her.

A scullery-maid is employed primarily for

cleaning all the dishes and utensils used in the

kitchen ; she washes the kitchen floors and does

the scrubbing. She will assist with the pre-

paration of vegetables and be responsible for

the keeping up of the kitchen fire.

If there is no kitchen-maid, the scullery-

maid will assist the cook and work under her

direction.

Although the work may be somewhat labori-

ous, it is a good beginning for a young girl who

aspires to be cook, and if she is quick and willing

she may learn a great deal, and gradually rise

to a better position.

The Kitchen-maid. - A kitchen-maid is em-

ployed to work under a cook, to be her apprentice

as it were. She is responsible for many of the

plainer dishes, thus leaving the cook free for

more important duties. She prepares and

serves the kitchen meals, and also cooks for

the mu-sery and school-rooin if required.

If there is no scullery-maid, the kitchen-maid

will also undertake the cleaning of the kitchen

utensils, the kitchen stove, and some of the

kitchen premises.

Provided a kitchen-maid serves under a good

cook, this is the best way for her to learn the

art of cooking.

The Tweeny. - This is a title given to a young

girl who divides her time between the house and

the kitchen. In the forenoon she may work

under the housemaid or the nurse and do the

housework, and from lunch time onwards assist

the cook. She does all the odd jobs and must

be ready to make herself generally useful.

The Hall Boy. - The hall boy or boy in buttons

is sometimes kept in place of a single man-

servant, and if clever and wilhng he may

be an extremely useful member of the house-

hold.

He wiU be found of special value in the house

of a professional man, such as a doctor or

dentist, where there is much answering of bella

required, and perhaps running of messages as

well.

A capable boy will soon learn to clean knives,

boots, and windows, to fill coal-scuttles and

look after fires. He will also be able to set

the table, do some waiting and most of the

wasliing up.

The boy in buttons must be provided with

clothes ; a Uvery suit of some dark cloth,

navy serge, dark green, or dark crimson with

the coat buttoning to the neck, and for

doing cleaning or rough work he should

have a cotton jacket of dark blue or striped

drill or strong hoUand and some good stout

aprons.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

HOUSEKEEPING WITHOUT A SERVANT

In these days of flat life, when accommodation

for housing a ser\'ant is very limited, it is often

found more convenient to do without one

altogether, or to manage with eitlier daily help

or the ser\nces of a thoroughly competent

worker once or twice a week.

It ought to be quite possible for a newly

married lady to undertake the work of a small

flat with perhaps the occasional help of a char-

woman, and to have time for other interests as

well. Or if, as is often the case, two sisters or

two friends live together, the work should be

all the more easy to manage, as each can take

her share of the household duties.

Some knowledge of housekeeping is, however,

necessary for the successful management of a

" no servant " manage, and if one is entirely

ignorant of the ways of doing things, it should

scarcely be attempted unless absolutely necessary,

as the results are not likely to be satisfactory.

Good health is also a sine qua non, although

no great phj^sical strength is required ; so much

is done nowadays to make the work of a house

simple, and especially the work in a flat. There

are no stairs nor front door -step to keep in order,

the cooking and water heating can be done by

gaa, and all provisions, &c., can be brought to

the very door without the trouble of going up

and down stairs. Yet with aU the conveniences

possible, success in the undertaking will depend

to a large extent upon the order and method

displayed in its organisation. The work must

be planned carefully, or one will either be in a

constant muddle, or be continually at it, and

have time for nothing beyond the daily round of

house duties.

To begin with, the woman who does her own

work must dress suitably when performing her

household duties - a short sldrt, a cotton or

other washing blouse, and a big apron or overall

is the most suitable attire ; or a complete wash-

ing dress might be worn if the weather is warm.

A large overall to slip on over a good afternoon

dress will also bo found useful.

It will be well also to seciure as many labour-

saving apparatus aa possible, such as gas-cooker,

carpet-sweeper, knife-cleaner, mop for washing

dishes, &c.

Care.too, must be taken of the hands. Because

a woman is her own maid-of-all-work this is no

excuse for her being careless in this respect.

Gloves should be worn as much as possible, and

after doing washing up the hands should be well

dried and a few drops of glycerine and rose-

water should be rubbed into the skin.

Do not commence by doing too much before

breakfast. Unless one has been accustomed to

early rising it is apt to knock one up for the rest

of the day without any reason. Do not attempt

to light fires and clean out a sitting-room before

a meal has been taken. Sometimes it may be

possible to prepare a certain amount the night

before, and in any case there should be a small

gas or even an oil-stove upon which the morning

meal can be prepared. If the sitting-room has

not a stove which can be lit without much

trouble, there is no reason why the kitchen should

not be pretty enough and tidy enough for the

first meal to be taken there.

On rising in the morning put on a large kettle

of water. If there is porridge for breakfast this

should have been soaked over-night in a double

cooker. Put a light under this also. Then

dress, and when ready let breakfast have the

first attention, talcing time to have this meal

leism-ely and in comfort. Next collect the

dishes and clear the table, and either put the

dishes to one side while the bedrooms and

sitting-room are being done, or wash them up

straight away.

The sitting-room should be done next, as it

will be as well to let the bedrooms air as long as

possible. If a fire has to be laid, do this with

order and method. Go over the floor with a

carpet-sweeper, then dust every part and leave

the window open. Next turn yovu- attention

to the bedrooms, put these in order, and then

sweep and dust the passage. Now return to

the kitchen, wash up all the dishes, and sweep

and dust. If breakfast has not been very late,

all the cleaning should be finished by eleven

o'clock, unless some special work has to be done,

such as the thorough cleaning of a room, silver,

brasses, work this could also be fitted in.

The cooking for the day should now be thought

of, and although it is alwaj's possible to have

meals at a restaurant, or to order various dishes

from a caterer's, it must be remembered that

this is an expensive way of living, and with the

necessary knowledge of cookery it should be

quite possible to have dainty little meals at

home, and so feed well with very little trouble.

The woman who does her own work will not

require to spend much time considering what is

in her larder ; she will no doubt have arranged

in her own mind what the different meals have

to be whilst doing her other work. All the

cookery required should either be done in the

morning or at least prepared as far as possible,

so that what must be left for the evening will take

very little time to get ready when required.

Light utensils should be used, such as aliuninium,

enamelled tin, or earthenware saucepans, as they

are easier to handle and keep in order. One or

two steamers would also be invaluable, as so

much cooking can be done in these -nathout

trouble and attention.

After the mid-day meal it is a good plan to

rest, even if only for half-an-hoiu", and then, after

dressing, one ought to feel quite fresh to go out

and turn one's thoughts in a different channel.

The afternoon should be free from household

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

If the evening meal has been prepared in the

morning it will not take long to get it ready, and

haK-an-hour as an ordinary rule should be

sufficient. Then if washing up in the evening

is found awkward, there is no occasion to do

more than the silver, which it is never wise to

leave, and the other dishes, if they are not re-

quired in the morning, could be packed up and

washed with the breakfast dishes.

Marketing. - The time for doing this will

depend upon circumstances, and need not be

rigidly fixed. If it is inconvenient to go out in

the mornmg in the midst of the other work it

may be possible to order in the afternoon for

the following day, or another way is to arrange

for the tradesmen to call, and for everything to

be brought to the door at a certain time.

Outside Help. - This may be obtained either

daily or once or twice a week, according to

circumstances and individual needs. If a

young girl is engaged to come in for an hour or

two every morning, she might do the washing \ip,

prepare the vegetables, and attend to the other

kitchen work, also clean the boots and stoves

and assist with the rooms as well. Many prefer,

however, to have more competent help even if

it is not so often. A good worker for half a day

could do all the hard cleaning, including the

stoves, scrubbing of the kitchen, and thoroughly

clean one or two rooms each visit. If the rooms

can be prepared for her, and any ornaments and

other trifles dusted and afterwards arranged, it

will be a great saving of time, and in this way

half the rooms could be cleaned one week, and

the other half the next.

Advantages. - Besides the actual saving of

board and wages of an indoor servant there will

be a feeling of independence. It will be possible

to leave home for a day or a week without any

need for worrying about the house. There will

also be freedom from that feeling of close

proximity to a servant which is impossible to

avoid in a flat, and which destroys the sense of

Hberty which is essential to the happiness of

both parties.

Warning. - ^It must be remembered that house-

work must not crowd out everything else ; one

mvist have time to read a little, rest a little, and

keep in touch with the outside world as welL

The economy that saves money at the expense

of health and the capabihty of enjojrment is in

reality one of the worst extravagances.

Another point is that the housekeeper must

remember to feed herself. If the mid-day meal

is taken alone, she is only too apt to make it as

meagre as possible to save trouble, and also to

take it too qiiickly, whereas time would be well

spent in eating something reaUy nutritious, and

if the quantity is small the quality should be

all the more carefully considered.

One must also learn to do without many

things, and not expect to live in the same style

as those who have plenty of servants at their

command, but this can quite well be done with-

out falling into a slovenly way of living and

losing any of the refinement of life.

WAGES TABLE

Giving the rates per Month, Week, and Day of Yearly Incomes from £10 to £50

Year.

Month

Week.

Day.

Year.

Month.

Week.

Day.

£ 8.

B. d.

8. d.

10 0

0 0

0 Hi

10 10

10 0

0 lU

11 0

17 0

101

0 llf

11 10

0 0

0 llj

11 11

10 0

1 Oi

12 0

18 0

1 Oi

12 10

0 0

1 o|

12 12

10 0

1 0|

13 0

19 0

1 1

13 10

0 0

1 u

13 13

0 0

1 If

14 0

0 0

1 2J

14 10

0 0

1 3

14 14

0 0

1 3|

15 0

0 0

1 4^

15 10

0 0

1 7|

15 15

0 0

1 11

16 0

10*

0 0

2 2J

16 10

io|

0 0

2 5i

16 16

0 0

2 9

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

The object of the foUowing pages is to furnish the housewife with directions for the performance

of such details of household work as ai-e not dealt with under special headings.

The directions are the result of many years practical experience of everything pertaining to

household management. ^ o x- e

The various details of household work are dealt with separately under their own headings, and

the many useful hints with regard to cleaning, &c., are the result of actual test

It 13 hoped that the information given wiU afford valuable help to the harassed housewife in

the little difficulties which are continually cropping up in the course of daily duties. If it does

this the imssion of this section of the book will be abundantly fulfilled.

THE CLEANING OF ROOMS

Before beginning to clean a room of any kind

it is very important that everything required for

the work should be collected together, so that

there need be no unnecessary running about to

seek for tliis or that duster or brush. So first

consider what has to be cleaned, and then take

with you the necessary implements, seeing that

everything is in order for the work to be carried

out satisfactorily and systematically, with the

least possible waste of time.

TO CLEAN AND TIDY A BEDROOM

Dally Work.- First draw up the blinds as far

as they will go, being careful to keep them

straight, and open the windows top and bottom.

Then turn down the bed and spread out any

night garments on a chair. Allow the room to

au- for an hour at lea^t before the bed is made.

During this time the slops may be emptied,

towels hung up evenly, and any clothing or

other articles left lying about the room put

away in theu- places. It is always better if

two people can make the bed. When this is

neatly finished, fold up the night-dress or

sleeping-suit, put it in a neat case, and lay it on

the bed just beneath the pillow.

If there has been a fire in the room attend to

the grate next, being careful to make as little

dust as possible.

It will not be necessary to sweep the room

every day, but the floor must be gone over

with a short brush and shovel or with a carpet-

sweeper, so as to take up any pieces or surface I

dust. Be careful too that all fluff is removed

from underneath the bed. Some people prefer '

to have the carpet wiped over with a slightly

damp cloth or leather.

Then dust the room. Commence at one corner

and go steadily round, dusting each article until

every part has been done. Pay particidar at-

tention to the toilet table. Lift each article

and diist underneath it, arranging everything

with order and taste.

If the edges of the floor are pohshed or covered

with hnoleum, rub them round with a shghtly

damp duster, or, better still, with the flannel or

cloth which has been used to rub up a polished

floor. The latter will have the remains of a

httle wax upon it, and will keep the floor in good

condition.

If a candlestick has been used, see that this is

in order, putting in a fresh candle if required,

and removing any old matches.

Finally fill up the ewer and water-jug with

fresh cold water, and lower the blinds and

windows a httle if desired. Look round the

room to see that everything is in order and

that no duster or brush is being left beliind, and

close the door quietly on leaving.

Weekly or Thorough Cleaning.- Once a week,

or at least once a fortnight, a bedroom will

require a more thorough cleaning if it is in

constant use.

After the slops have been emptied, the bed-

room ware and any gas globes should be carried

away to a bathroom or housemaid's pantry,

where they can be washed. If this is not con-

venient, they must be covered over and washed

afterwards in the room.

Before making the bed, brush the mattress on

both sides and well round the edges, as this is

one of the best means of keeping away moths;

Dust also the bedstead under the mattress and

then make the bed, but do not put on the top

cover ; this is better kept off until the cleaning

is finished. Tuck up the valance all round, if

there is one, and brush and pin back any

curtains out of the way.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

Next lay some sheets of clean paper or a large

towel on the top of the bed. Dust all ornaments

(keeping aside any that may require washing)

and other small articles, and lay them on the top

of the bed over the paper, or towel. Shake and

fold up the toilet cover, and all table-cloths

and towels ; shake and remove any short

window-blinds, and lay these also on the bed.

Cover all with a large dust-sheet, which will

hang well over the sides.

Dust and remove from the room as many as

possible of the small articles of furniture, and

cover over what is left with dust-sheets or old

newspapers. If any of the chairs are up-

holstered, these should be brushed with a

furniture brush before being covered. All

clothing must be taken down from the back of

doors and kept out of the room or under cover.

Roll up all rugs or n^ats, and take them out-

side to be beaten later on. If this cannot be

done they must be brushed with a short brush

in the room and then removed.

If there has been a fire in the rooim, remove

all the cinders and dost, but do not pohsh the

grate until the room has been swept. Next

close all windows and doors, and see that drawers

too are shut.

Sprinkle the carpet with tea-leaves or bran,

and sweep it thoroughly. When the dust has

all been collected in a shovel, the window should

be thrown open and the room left for a httle

while to allow the dust to settle.

Meanwhile the dust in the dust-pan should be

taken away and burnt at once. K left lying

about it is very apt to be knocked over and the

contents perhaps scattered around. The articles

that have been outside can also have attention.

The rugs should be brushed or beaten outside

and carried back in readiness to be laid down,

the ware in the batliroom washed, and the

small fxirniture rubbed up.

Then return to the room and finish off the

fireplace, using a hearth- cloth.

Roll up the dust-sheets, which should after-

wards be shaken in the open air. One word

about dust-sheets - too often these are used

vmtil they reach such a dirty state as to be

rendered almost useless. They should be

washed whenever necessary.

Tlie dusting may now be commenced. First

mount a pair of steps, dusting all out-of-

reach places, such as bhnds, curtain poles,

inside of windows, pictures, top of wardrobe

and door, &c. Then dust and polish, if neces-

sary, the furniture that remains in the room ; also

dust round the skirting board, panels of doors

and floor where it is uncarpeted.

When the dust has as far as possible been

removed from the room, it is time to do any

necessary washing. Wash the top of the wash-

stand if it is marble, the tiles round the fire-

place, the window ledges if they require it, and

any finger-marks off doors. The windows and

mirrors too if they require special cleaning

should now have attention. Also finish off the

edges of the floor in a suitable manner, accord-

ing to whether they aie hnoleum, varnish, or

matting.

Now put back in their places the articles which

were laid on the bed, let down the bed valance,

and put the bed in order.

Then bring back the things from outside and

arrange everything in order. Supply the wash-

stand with fresh water and new soap if required.

Spare Bedrooms. - These will not require to be

cleaned so often as the rooms that are in con-

stant use. If they are aired and dusted regularly

they ought to keep in good order without being

tm-ned out more than perhaps once a month. Of

course, this depends a good deal upon the locaUty

in wliich a house is situated. A room in a

smoky city will requii-e much more cleaning

than one in a fresh country district.

Note. - For details of the various operations,

see under special headings.

TO CLEAN A SITTING-ROOM

The order and method for this is very much

the same as for a bedroom, except of coiirse

there is not the bed and wash-stand to attend

to.

Daily Work. - Draw up the blinds and open

the window. Remove any table-covers, shake

them and fold them up, and roll up the rugs

(sometimes tliis is done over-night).

If there has been a fire in the room, attend to

that first. Lay down the hearth-cloth before

commencing, and finish off the grat" com-

pletely.

Then with a dust-pan and short brush - or,

better stiU, with a carpet-sweeper - go over the

floor, taking up any crumbs and pieces and ail

siu-face dust. Be careful to make 6is httle dust

as possible. Lay down the rugs and brush them

over also.

Tlien take away the dust and burn it at once,

also the contents of the waste- paper basket.

Next dust the room ceirefully, commencing at

one corner and going steadily round.

If there is a poUshed or hnoleum surround

to the carpet, wipe this round with a slightly

damp duster and then with a dry one. Dust at

the same time the sku*ting-boards. Replace the

table-covers, and see that cushions, books, &c.,

are all in order.

To " Thorough-Clean " a Sitting-room. - A room

that is in constant use will require to be cleaned

more thoroughly once a week. A drawing-

room or room that is only used occasionally will

not require it so often. The mistress of the house

must decide for herself how often it is necessary

to turn it out.

To Prepare the Room. - First remove all plants

and flowers, and these sliould be attended to and

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

arranged outside before they are brought back

into the room.

Pull up the blinds as far as they will go.

Shake or brush the curtains, and pin them high

up out of the way. Remove any short window-

curtains, shake them and fold them up.

Then dust thorougWy all ornaments, odd

books, music, &c., and cither remove them from

the room or cover them over on a table or side-

board inside.

Dust also and remove, if possible, all small

articles of furniture.

Roll up all rugs, and have them taken out of

doors to be shaken or beaten later on.

Take off all table-cloths and antimacassars,

shake them and fold them up. Boat all cusliions,

but not too roughly, and then cover all these

small things with a dust-sheet.

Upholstered furniture and footstools should

be brushed, and all furniture which cannot

be removed should be covered over with large

clean dust-sheets.

To Clean the Room. - Follow the same order

for sweeping, dusting, and doing the grate as for

a bedroom. (See 59.)

After sweeping, and while the dust is settling,

the things outside should be seen to. Rugs

should be shaken, dirty ornaments and glass

globes washed or cleaned, and any necessary

polishing done.

After the inside dusting is done, put back the

furniture in its place, and put on table-cloths and

antimacassars. Bring back all ornaments, &c.,

take down the curtains and see that all is in order.

Finally replace any plants and flower decora-

tions.

CLEANING OF HALL AND STAIRCASE

Before commencing to clean these, close all

doors leading into them. Take up all mats and

have them shaken outside the house. In

houses where there is much going up and down

stairs the latter will require to be swept down

daily, but with a quiet household it may be

sufficient to sweep them two or three times a

week, and to simply dust them on the other days.

Begin at the top landing and work down-

wards. If there is a long stretch of landing

on any of the floors, this should be swept with a

long broom or carpet-sweeper instead of the

short brush, as it will save unnecessary kneeling.

To sweep the stairs, take a banister or stair-

brush and a dust-pan. A double brush, with

bristles on one side and hair on the other, is the

most convenient for the purpose. Sweep the

top and front of each step, catching the dust in

the dust-pan. Use the bristle side of the brush

for the carpet and the soft hair side for the paint

or varnish.

When the bottom of the stair is reached take

the dust away at once and have it burnt ; if left

lying in the dust-pan it is very liable to be

knocked over and spilt. And here a word of

warning may be given about the danger of leav-

ing cleaning materials on a stair ; most serious

accidents have happened owing to carelessness in

this respect.

Allow the dust to settle before doing the

dusting. Stairs and banisters will require to be

dusted thoroughly every daj', and each banister

rail should be done separately.

The varnished or painted sides of stair and

landing should be wiped first with a slightly

damp rubber, as this will prevent the dust flying

about, and then poUshed with a dry one.

Doors, door-handles, and window ledges must

also liave attention. Lay down the mats last

of aU.

Weekly Cleaning, - Once a week the stairs will

require a more thorough cleaning.

When sweeping the steps, pull out the ends of

the rods and sweep away the dust from under-

neath. The banisters too, if they are of wood,

should be carefully brushed. If made of painted

iron, they may be washed after the sweeping is

finished with a wash leather wrung out of warm

water and a very httle soap. Care itiust be

taken to wring the leather rather firmly, so as to

prevent drops of water falling on the steps.

After the stairs have been thoroughly swept,

and while the dust is settUng, the rods may be

cleaned. While doing this an old newspaper

or large duster should be laid on the steps to

protect the carpet, and not more than one or two

rods must be taken out at one time.

Then after the steps and banisters have been

carefully dusted, polish the hand-rail with a

little furniture pohsh and the sides of the stairs

and landing with floor polish, or bees' -wax and

turpentine. If of varnished wood, or if of

enamelled white paint, wash them carefully with

a little plain soap and water, and rub up with a

dry cloth.

A stair carpet will require lifting more fre-

quently than other carpets ; twice a year at

least, and oftener, if there is much going up and

down. When the carpet is up, the stops should

be well scrubbed with a little carbohc soap before

it is relaid.

If there is a linen drugget over the stair

carpet, this should be lifted frequently. Poll it

up as gently as possible so £is not to disturb the

dust. Then have it taken out of doors, well

brushed and rubbed over with a damp cloth.

The carpet underneath should be well brushed

before laying it down again. Change the position

of the drugget a little each time it is relaid, so as

to ensure equal wear.

To Clean the Hall. - The rugs having been re-

moved, sweep the floor carefully, keeping the dust

down as much as possible. Take the dust up in

a dust-pan and have it burnt. Then allow the

dust that has risen to settle, and dust all the

furniture, skirting- boards and doors. If the

hall is tiled or covered with linoleum, it ought

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

to be washed once or twice a week, or as often aa

necessary.

The hall mats should be shaken or beaten out-

side the back-door if possible, and they must not

be relaid until the floor is dry. The door-steps

must be washed every day (see p. 73), and as

early in the morning as possible. If there is not

time for much work before breakfast, then the

steps can be done first and the hall left until

later in the day. Empty the scraper, and black-

lead it brightly. Polish all brass door-handles

and plates ; those inside once a week and those

outside every day.

Once a week the furniture in the hall should

be well rubbed up, all brass or other ornaments

cleaned, gas globes washed, gas bracket dusted,

and any windows and mirrors cleaned.

Note. - For details of the various operations,

see under special headings.

THE BATHROOM AND LAVATORY

To Clean Baths. - All baths should be thor-

oughly well rinsed and wiped out after having

been used. If the soapy scum which rises on

the top of the water is allowed to he on them,

they will be found much more difficult to clean.

Enamelled Baths. - Empty or run out all the

soapy water, and then let in some clean warm

water. Take a flannel or soft brush and

wash the sides and all over with this, using a

little soft soap, or Sunlight soap if necessary ;

but if the bath is in constant use this will not

likely be required every day. If the enamel

becomes stained or discoloured, dip the flannel

in a little dry salt before applying it. Rinse

with clean warm water if soap has been used,

and then dry rith a cloth. This treatment

should be sufficient to keep the bath in order,

but if the enamel becomes very dirty use a

little Sapolio along with the ordinary soap.

Care must always be taken not to roughen the

surface of the enamel, because if once the poUsh

is spoilt it is much more difficult to keep it in

order.

A Porcelain Bath can be treated in the same

way as above, but Brooke's soap may be used

instead of Sapolio if the ordinary soap and

water is not sufficient to make it clean.

A Zinc Bath is a little more difficxilt to keep

in order. It should be washed out as above,

and, if much soiled, rubbed with a mixture of

soft soap and Brooke's soap. Shred down some

Brooke's soap and mix it In a saucer with some

soft soap. Apply this to the bath with a flannel,

rubbing it well in, rinse and dry thoroughly.

Fine bath-brick dust mixed with a little paraffin

is also an excellent thing for cleaning zinc, but

it requires a lot of rinsing to get rid of the

smell.

The Water-closet Pan. - This should be well

flushed out with water every day and brushed

round with a special brush, which is kept for

this purpose only. Then once a week at least

a good pailful of hot soda-water should be

poured in and the brush used again.

If the pan has become discoloinred or a coating

of fiir collected on the sides, empty out as much

of the cold water as possible and scrub it well

with sand and soft soap, or use a little coarse

salt. If this is not sufficient to bring it into

good condition, dissolve a penny-

worth of spirits of salt in one quart

of boiling water ; pour this into

the pan and allow it to remain

there for a short time. Then

brush round vigorously and rinse.

Care must be taken that the

mixture does not touch the hands,

as it is very poisonous and liable

to burn.

The lavatory brush should, if

possible, be hung on a nail out-

side the window. Each lavatory

should also be pro\aded with a

towel hung on to a nail by a

loop.

It is very important that no

rubbish be put down the lavatory,

such as bmrnt matches, hair com-

bings, faded flowers, pieces of

orange peel, &c. It must be

remembered that the pipes are

usually made with a bend, and

such articles would be Ukely to obstruct them.

Young servants shovild always be warned against

throwing any scraps they find in the bedrooms

into the slop-pail.

The window of the lavatory shoiild always

be kept open and the door shut.

The Lavatory Basin. - If this is emptied im-

mediately after use and rinsed with a little cold

water, it will be easily kept in order. It is

when dirty soapy water is allowed to remain

in the basin that it becomes more difficult to

clean. When necessEiry wash with hot water,

soap, and a brush, using a little Brooke's soap

or Sapolio if required for any stains ; rinse with

cold water and dry with a cloth. Every day

the taps ought to be dried and rubbed with a

duster, and twice a week at least they sho\ild be

polished with a little metal polish to keep them

bright and shining.

CARE OF CARPETS AND RUGS

To Sweep a Carpet. - In these days of carpet-

sweepers and suction dust-lifters much of the

old-fashioned hand -switching has been done

away with. A carpet-sweeper is now to be seen

in almost every house, and it is certainly an

immense saving of labour. The price varies

from 10s. 6d. upwards. It is quick and simple,

and takes up the dust where it lies instead of

raising it to float about the room in an un-

hygienic way. It must be rolled across the

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

carpet with even strokes, and there is no occa-

sion to press too heavily. Care must be taken

not to use it near heavj' furniture, so as to avoid

knocking it, and a brush will always be required

as well to brush all corners and places where

Carpet-Sweeper.

the sweeper cannot reach. The sweeper must

bo emptied each day after use, and any fluff,

hairs, or thread ends removed from the brushes.

If attention is not paid to this the sweeper will

very soon become clogged and out of order.

\V1ieu cleaning a carpet which has a thick pile,

such as an Axminster, it is better to use a brush

in preference to a sweeper, as the rollers on the

latter are liable to leave marks on the soft

surface.

Patent suction diist-lifters or vacuum cleaners

are also coming into use, but the really practical

ones are still much too expensive for the ordinary

private house.

When none of these patent cleaners are avail-

able, then a carpet must be swept. It will

not be necessary to sweep it with a hard broom

every day ; it will be sufficient

/''~\^ just to go over it with a short-

^ \ handled brush and dust-pan,

taking up any pieces or smface

dust. Then once a week, or once

a fortnight, according to how

much the room is used, the carpet

must be brushed more thoroughly.

Cover up or remove as much of

the furniture as possible. Shut

down windows and close all doors

before beginning to brush. Then

sprinkle the floor all over with

one of the following : clean bran

slightly moistened, tea - leaves

which have been washed and

drained and mixed with a little

coarse salt, or cabbage blades

shred and mixed with coarse salt.

Any of these will prevent the dust

from flying about the room un-

necessarily and also help to freshen the carpet.

Thf n take a carpet broom or switch and brush

all o\ er the floor with short sharp strokes. Com-

mence at one of the corners and work methodi-

cally, sweeping all the dust towards the fli'oplace

short-handled

Brush.

or door. Sweep in such a direction as to flatten

the pile, or tlie cau-pet will have a rough appear-

ance and be apt to collect dust. The brush

ought to be turned occasionally so as to wear it

equally. The dust must be kept together sis

much &s possible and not sent flying over the

room. When brushing a tliick pile carpet, such

as an Axminster or Turkey, be particular to

brush the way of the pile, or the dust will only

be swept into it. Collect all the dust together

in a heap, brush into a shovel and take it away

to be burnt. Then open the window, and leave

the room for a short time before doing any

dusting.

To Revive the Colour. - If the carpet is old and

somewhat faded, tlie colour may be somewhat

revived by washing it over with a flannel wrung

out of ammonia and water ; or if the cai-pet is

soiled as well, wash over first with carbolic or

Sunlight soap and water, and rinse with ammonia

and water.

To Remove Stains. - Ink. - As much as possible

should at once be absorbed with a piece of

blotting-paper. Then pour on some fresh milk,

rub it in, and off, then take some more milk and

repeat the process, finally wasliing with a little

clean warm water. If this fails, which may be

the case if the ink has been on the carpet for

some time, try Sanitas, or one tea-spoonful of

oxalic acid mixed in half a teacupful of water.

Grease. - If it is candle grease, remove as

much as possible with a spoon or bone paper-

knife ; then place a piece of thick brown or

blotting-paper over the stain and apply the

point of a hot iron, allowing the grease to sink

into the paper. Move the paper and repeat the

process. Other grease stains may be removed by

covering them with a paste made of Fuller's earth

and water. Allow this to remain for twenty-

four hours and then brush off. Black-lead stsuns

can also be removed with Fuller's earth.

Chiver's carpet soap is also very good for re-

moving stains.

To Beat Carpets. - If a carpet has to be beaten

at home it should be taken into the garden and

carried as far from the house as possible. If the

distance cannot be very great, all windows and

outside doors should be closed while the beating

is going on to prevent the dust entering the

house. Hang the carpet over a clothes-line with

the wrong side out, and beat it well with strong

canes or carpet- beaters. Care must be taken

that there are no sharp points in the sticks which

would be likely to injure the carpet. When the

wrong side seems clean and no more dust rises,

turn the carpet and repeat the same process on

the right side. Then if there is some nice clean

gresa, spread the carpet over it and sweep off the

surface-dust with a strong broom. The carpet

may even be drawn over the grass to freshen it.

Rugs should if possible be taken out of doors

to be beaten or brushed. If they are too heavy

to be shaken by hand, they should be hung over

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

a rope and beaten with a stick, or laid on the

grass and brushed thoroughly. Wlien there is

no garden or yard they must be swept in the

room to which they belong. If much soiled, wa^h

them over in the same way as carpets.

White Skin Rugs. - If these are large it is wise

to send them to a professional cleaner to be

cleaned, as it is too much of an undertaking to

attempt them at home, and the result is not Ukely

to be satisfactory. A small skin rug can, how-

ever, be washed without much trouble. Prepare

a tub of warm water and make a strong lather

with melted soap or soap powder, adding

enough ammonia to make the water smell rather

strongly. Put the rug into this and knead it well

with the hands, or put it on to a washing-board

and brush with a brush. Repeat the process

in a second soapy water if the first is not sufficient

to clean the rug. Rinse thoroughly in warm

soapy water ; put it two or three times through

the wringing-macliine. It is always better to

leave a little soap in the skin, as this helps to

keep it soft. Shake the rug well, in the open

air if possible, and dry in a good wind or indoors

in a warm atmosphere, but not too near a fire.

Whilst drying the rug should be shaken and

rubbed occasionally to keep the skin soft.

Cocoanut- Fibre Door- Mats. - These should be

beaten right side downwards, and on a green if

possible. When very dirty, wash them "with hot

water and soda and a very strong brush. Then

dip the brush in salt and water and wash over

again. The salt will help to keep the fibre stiff.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DUSTING

It is very important that aU dust should be

removed from oior rooms, not only because

dusty rooms are uncon.fortable and unpleasant

to look upon, but also because dust is one of the

sources of disease when we inhale it into our

lungs.

The first point in dusting is to be provided

^vith the proper sort of duster. This should be

made of some soft material that will gathpr up

the dust, and something smooth that leaves no

fluf?. In large families there is generally some

old material that can be used for the purpose,

such as remains of old curtains, or print dresses,

old window-blinds, or even thin bed-covers, which

have become too shabby to serve their original

purpose. Cotton is as a rule better than Unen.

A duster must always be hemmed. A ragged

duster should never be used for fine work, as it is

very likely to catch on to some ornament or

pointed furniture and cause an accident. Old

dusters can alwaj's be used up in the cleaning of

grates, brasses, and the like.

It is a good plan when dusting a room to work

with two dusters, one slightly damp to gather up

the dust, and the other dry to follow after and

polish up. The aim in dusting must be to

remove the dust and not merely to flick it from

one part of the room to another. The duster

ought to be rolled up into a sort of pad, the dust

collected in it and then shaken out of the window

from time to time. The work must be done

on some distinct plan to ensure every part of

the room having attention. Commence at one

corner of the room and work steadily round it

until every article has been dusted. High and

out-of-reach places should be dusted first, as then

any dust falling from the upper part will be re-

moved when the lower part is being done. It

is not only the tops of fm-niture and the places

that are seen that require dusting, the backs of

chairs, chair and table legs, the ledges of wains-

coting, and other out-of-the-way places all

require attention. When dusting a chimney-

piece or table where small ornaments, &c., aje

placed, Mft each article separately, dust it and

also the surface tmderneath it before laying it

down again. A furnitiu-e brush should be used

for the dusting of ornamental fiu-niture.

THE CJLEANING OF FURNITURE

All furniture requires regular dusting to keep

it in good order. A soft duster is necessary ;

in fact, it is best when dusting and polishing

to work with two dusters, one with which to hold

the article of furniture, and the other to do the

dusting and rubbing up. A soft brush will be a

help for any twisted or ornamental parts.

Upholstered fui-niture will also require a

brush, and especial attention must be given to

the crevices, and folds and buttons on chairs.

Furniture brushes can be bought in many

Kurniture Brushes.

different patterns, and it is as well to choose

the one that is best suited to the work to be

done.

It must be remembered when dusting and

rubbing up furniture that more can be done by

plenty of " elbow grease " than by any amount

of furnitvu-e polish ; in fact, this latter is often

used in far too lavish a manner.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

In addition to the regular dusting a more

thorough cleaning and rubbing up will be re-

quired at periodic intervals, and then some

furniture polish may be applied. This may

be prepared at home in one of the following

ways : -

(1) Put into a bottle equal quantities of

boiled linseed oil and brown vinegar - shake

together and use as required. This is very

simple and very good.

(2) Take equal quantities of linseed oil, tur-

pentine, brown v-inegar and methylated spirits

and mix all together in a bottle.

:Many other formulas might be given, and

melted bees' -wax is a very favourite ingredient,

but although a good thing it requires an amount

of very hard rubbing to remove the effect of

its sticky properties. Furniture polishes may be

bought ready prepared, and many of these are so

good and so inexpensive that it is just a question

whether it is worth one's while to go to the

trouble of making one's own.

Furniture polish must never be used until the

furniture has been well dusted, or it will smear

and clog. Shake the bottle before beginning,

and apply a little with a flannel or soft cotton

pad. Rub it well into the wood, and evenly

according to the grain. It should never be used

in excess. Afterwards rub off with a soft duster

and polish with a second duster or chamois

leather.

When working with furnitxare polish be carefxil

to place the bottle where it is not likely to be

knocked over.

At spring-cleaning time, or at least once a year,

most furniture will be improved by being washed

before polishing.

Mahogany Furniture should be washed either

with cold tea or with vinegar and water. Use

a soft flannel or sponge for the plain pieces and

a soft brush for any carved or ornamental parts.

Dry and then polish as above.

Oak Furniture. - A little warm beer is the best

thing for washing this, as it improves the colovu".

This is better than soap and water, and especially

for old oak, as soap would spoil the appear-

ance of the wood. When dry, polish with

furniture cream.

Highly Polished Furniture should be washed

with methylated spirits and water. Put two

table -spoonfuls of methylated spirits into three

broakfast-cupfuls of warm water, wring a small

sponge out of this and weish the furnitvire all

over. Dry and polish with a chamois leather.

No further polishing will be necessary.

Pitch-Pine Furniture may be washed with warm

water and a little soap, but care must be taken

not to make it too wet.

Stains on Furniture. - White Stains, which are

duo to hot dishes having been placed upon the

wood, can bo removed with spirits of camphor.

Rub well in with a soft rag and then polish the

wood in the usual way. Ink Stains can be

removed by rubbing them with a little oxalio

acid. Do not spread the acid over the wood

more than is necessary. A cork is a good thing

to use for the application. Wash off with warm

water and then polish.

Upholstered Furniture. - To clean this thor-

oughly it should be well beaten and brushed in

the open air. If the material with wliich it is

covered becomes soiled and dirty, it may be

considerably restored by rubbing it over with

warm bran or fig-dust, which can be bought

from any corn -dealers. Benzine will probably

remove any obstinate stains.

Leather Chairs. - These can be washed when

dirty simply with soap and tepid water. Rub

very Ughtly with a sponge, and then wipe off the

soap and dry with a soft cloth. Very Uttle water

must be used. When dry, poUsh with the

Unseed oil and vinegar polish, or with an

application of wliite of egg slightly beaten.

White Wiclcer Chairs. - Wash with soap and

warm water and a soft brush. Rinse off the

soap, and rub the cane over with equal quantities

of lemon juice and water, or with a pennyworth

of oxalic acid mixed in two cupfuls of water ;

this will help to whiten the cane. Put the

chairs in the open air to dry.

Grease stains may be removed from wicker

by rubbing them with a little methylated spirits.

FIRES AND FIREPLACES

Before beginning to lay a fire or clean a grate,

the hearth-rug, if there is one, should be rolled

up and put on one side and a hearth- cloth

laid down over the carpet. Any coarse close

material will do for this, such as sacking, tick,

or an old cretonne curtain ; but care must be

taken to spread always the clean side next the

carpet.

Have at hand everything that will be required

for the cleaning of the grate and the laying of

the fire. Some old newspaper, dry sticks, and

a supply of small coal ; a sweep's brush or

grate brush, a small shovel, black-lead or other

stove polish, with brushes for putting it on and

polishing ; one or two dusters, the necessary

materials for cleaning steel or brass, and a pair

of gloves. The best plan is to keep all these

in readiness in a housemaid's box, which is

usually fitted with small divisions for keeping

the different requisites, and is sometimes pro-

vided with a cinder-sifter as well. A pair of

gloves should always be worn, as there is nothing

worse than black-lead for the hands, and there

is no occasion to have them unnecessarily

spoilt.

First remove the fire-irons and place them on

the hearth-cloth. Then clean out the fiireplace,

using a piece of stick for the purpose, as this

will make leas noise than the poker. Be careful

to make as Uttle dust as possible. Next brush

the back of the grate and inside the fireplace

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

■with the sweep's brush, and remove all ashes and

cinders. The latter must be reserved for lajdng

the fire, or if there are too many,

biu-nt in the kitchen or boiler

stove. The grate must now be

thoroughly dusted before any

black-leading or poHshing takes

place.

If the stove requires black-

leading, apply a very little black-

lead that has been moistened with

water and a few drops of ttirpen-

tine, by means of the black-lead

brush. Or instead of black-lead

a specially prepared stove polish

may be used, such as Nixelene or

EnameHne; and this is almost

simpler and cleaner, as there is

no danger of it being splashed

over any siu:rounding tiles, or

even on the carpet. Brush oS

with a poUshing brush, and then

finish ofi with a firm polisher. There is no

occasion to use much black-lead or poUsh ; in

fact, if a stove is in constant use, it will not

likely be required every day ; a rub up with

the polisliing brushes will be stifficient, except

Sweei)^s Brush.

Black-lead Brushes.

perhaps once a week when the room is having

a more thorough cleaning.

The bajs of the grate wUl always require a

little extra attention, and may reqiiire to be

blackened more often.

Next lay the fire. Many people never succeed

in lajdng a fire that will burn well, because they

pack it too tightly and do not leave enough space

for the air to get through between the paper and

sticks. Conunence by laying a few cinders at

the foot of the grate with some lightly crumpled

paper on the top. Next place in some sticks

crossways, allowing some of the ends to rest on

the bars of the grate, and then some more large

cinders or small pieces of coal on the top. The

fire should be made to slope backwards, so that

when it is first hghted the smoke will not blow

into the room. Fire-lighters may be used

instead of ordinary sticks ; they are resined and

burn up very quickly.

If the front and sides of the grate are tiled,

rub these over daily with a duster, and occasion-

ally wash them with a flannel wrung out of warm

water and a little sunlight soap ; rinse, dry with

cloth, and polish with a chamois leather. If

the tUes are stained, a httle Sapolio rubbed on

the flannel and appUed rather dry will gene-

rally remove the marks ; then wash over and

finish as before. Do not use too much water

when doing the cleaning, as it will be Uable to

sink into the cement and ultimately loosen the

tiles.

Then finally clean the fender curb and fire-

irons. If these are of brass, copper or steel, it

will be s\ifiicient to rub them well with a dry

duster or chamois leather each day, and to give

them a more thorough cleaning, say once a

week. (See cleaning of brass, steel or copper,

p. 72.) If they are made partly of iron and

partly of steel, &c., the iron part may be brushed

over with the pohshing brushes, or a little

Brunswick black may be used to the fender if it

becomes very shabby. Black-lead must on no

account be put on the handles of fire-irons.

If an iron grate is not to be used for some time,

it is a good plan to rub it up with a little Pvonuk ;

this will not only keep it looking bright, but will

prevent rust. Directions for use are given with

each tin.

If by any chance the grate has become rusty,

rub well with a mixture of bath-brick dust and

paraffin, then wash off and dry before polisliing.

Grates that are seldom used are sometimes

painted with Brunswick black to keeo them in

good condition.

CARE OF CHIMNEYS

Chimney on Fire. - This can to a large extent

be prevented by keeping the chimneys clean.

Every chimney should be swept once or twice

a year at least, and oftener if the fireplace is

in constant use. Kitchen chimneys should bo

swept oftener ; throe or four times a yeai' will not

be too much if large fires are kept burning daily.

In addition to the thorough cleaning given by

the sweep, any soot which accumulates near the

fireplace should be swept away with the sweep's

brush when the different grates ai'e cleaned.

If the chimney should catch fire the first thing

to do is to close the door and •n-indow to prevent

a strong current of air from increasing the flames.

Then throw over the fire a few handf uls of salt,

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

■when it will as a rvile burn itself out in a very

short time.

HOW TO SCRUB A ROOM

The room must first be cleeired of as much

furniture as convenient, and all rugs and pieces

of carpet rolled up and put on one side. Then

sweep the room with a soft broom, and remove

aH the dust in a shovel.

Have readj- a kneeUng-mat, a pail of warm

water, a scrubbing brush, a piece of house

flannel or a swab, and a little soft soap.

Commence at the corner of the room farthest

from the door. Wring the flannel out of the

Scrubbing- Brush.

■water, and wet as much of the boards as the

arm can conveniently reach. Put a httle soap

on the brush and scrub each piece thoroughly

backwsurds and forwards, and -with the grain of

the wood. This loosens the dirt, and it is now

important to have it removed. Wring the

flannel again out of the water and wipe the

portion of board that was scrubbed until all the

soap is gathered up ; then dry with a coarse

cloth. Do not make the boards wetter than is

necessary to make them clean, especially if it is

a floor that has a ceiUng underneath, and change

the water as soon as it becomes dirty. Work

methodically over every paxt of the floor until

all is finished.

If the wood is greasy, a little soda may be added

to the water, and when washing boards that are

much soiled a little sand used along with the

soap win be a help. A bad stain can be usually

removed from a floor by spreading it with a

paste made of Fuller's earth and hot water,

allowing it to remain overnight and then washing

off.

When finished, allow a good current of air to

pass through the room to dry it ; or on a damp

day it is better to have a fire burning, more

especially if it is a bedroom or a room that will

be used immediately.

CARE OF POLISHED FLOORS

These should bo swept and dusted every day.

First remove as much as possible of the surface

dust with a soft short-handled broom and dust-

pan, or, if there is a large surface of flooring

under treatment, a long broom can bo used.

Then rub the floor with a dry duster, or what is

better still, with a floor-duster. If there is much

polished flooring to be kept in order, it is very

important that the worker should not do it on

Floor-Duster.

her knees. Then once a week the floor should be

pohshed.

To Prepare Floor Polish. - Shred down I lb.

bees' -wax, and put it into a jar v/ith ^ pint

turpentine ; allow tliis to melt slowly in the oven

or on the side of the stove, stirring occasionally

with a wooden stick.

Rub a httle of this on to the floor ■with a piece

of flannel and then poUsh with a pad, which can

be bought for the purpose, or ■with a floor-

poUsher.

Special floor poUshes can also be bought pre-

pared, such as Ronuk, Jackson's C&mphorated

Floor-Polisher.

Pohsh, &c., and the use of one of these would of

course save the trouble of making, but 't would

come a little more expensive than the simple

bees' -wax and tiurpentine.

TO CLEAN LINOLEUM OR FLOOR-CLOTH

Much washing and scrubbing is bad for the

ordinary linoleum. It should be well swept

every day, and only washed when necessary.

Take a pail of warm water, some plain yellow

soap, and a piece of house flannel, and wash the

hnoleum with this. Wring out the flannel and

take up as much of the moisture as possible.

Then dry with a clean dry towel. If the linoleum

is very dirty and requires a brush, then a soft one

only must be used. The use of soda, ammonia,

or washing powders must be avoided.

....r^

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK

Greenwich Linoleum, which has the pattern

all the way through, can be washed with warm

water, a flannel, and a little Brook's soap. This

revives the colour and makes it look like new.

To give the linoleum a more finished appearance,

it may be rubbed over with a little skimmed milk

after washing and finished with a dry cloth ; or

with a httle glue water made thus : - Take one

ounce of glue powder or shredded glue, dissolve

it in one pint of boiling water and allow it to

melt, stirring occasionally with a stick. The

linoleum may of course be pohshed if a brighter

gloss is desired. (See Polished Floors, p. 66.)

Indian Matting. - This should be washed on the

floor with a strong solution of salt and water and

then dried quickly with a soft cloth. Or, if it

becomes very much soiled, take it up and scrub

with soap and water and a moderately hard

brush. Rinse on both sides and dry with a

cloth or in the open air. If there are stains on

the matting a little ammonia might be added to

the water or some benzine applied to the spot.

Care of Tiled Floors. - Sweep every day with a

soft broom ; and once or twice a week, or oftener

if necessary, wash them over with soap and

water. Take some water in a pail and add to it

a little soap powder or melted soap. Use either

a house flannel or brush to wash with. If the

tiles are very dirty a brush will be required.

Rinse oS the soap, and then make as dry as

possible with the flannel. A little Brook's soap

or Sapolio will be useful for removing any stains.

If it is desired to have a poUsh on the tiles, they

may be rubbed over with a little milk after

washing, or with Unseed oil and turpentine mixed

in equal quantities.

THE MAKING AND CABE OF BEDS

However well chosen and hygienic a bed may

be, if it is not well made, the cornfort of it will be

greatly reduced, if not altogether spoilt.

A bed must be thoroughly well aired every day

for an hour at least before making. The windows

of the bedroom should first be thi'own open top

and bottom, the bed-curtains drawn back, if

there are any, then the clothes stripped oS the

bed one at a time and placed over the back of

a chair or chairs. The pillows and bolster must

be well shaken and beaten, and placed near the

open window if possible, and then the mattress

raised on its two ends so as to form an arch for the

air to pass through. If there is a feather mat-

tress, this should be laid over the end of the bed.

In making a bed individual taste should always

be considered. Some like all the surplus length

of blanket doubled over at the top, while others

like the covering only to reach to the shoulders ;

and in the case of a feather-bed some like the bed

made so as to slope towards the foot, and others

prefer it perfectly flat, and so on. These may

appear fads, but it entails no extra trouble to

givo in to them - only a little thought; and

attention to these small details may add very

much to the comfort and real repose of the

sleeper.

It is always better and more expeditious if two

people can be engaged in the making of the beds ;

and needless to say their hands should be spot-

lessly clean, and they should each wear a clean

apron or overall.

The mattress must be turned each morning

- one day from top to bottom, and the next

from side to side - so as to ensure equal wear.

If there is a feather-bed, it must be thoroughly

shaken to prevent lumps. Take the two op-

posite corners and shake the feathers towards

the centre, then the other two corners and do

the same, and next the sides. When the feathers

seem perfectly hght and free from lumps,

smooth the mattress over, being particular to

fill the corners with feathers. If any feathers

shovdd come out during the process, it will

generally be from a hole in the seam, and this

should at once be attended to and sewn together

with a needle and cotton.

In laying the clothes on the bed each article

must be put on separately, and not thrown on in

a mass to save time. They must be put on

evenly, allowing the same amount to come over

each side of the bed and be tucked in all round.

It is also most important to have them free from

wrinkles or folds of any kind.

When the mattress is arranged, next put on

the binder or under-blanket. This should be

wide enough to tuck in well at the sides of the

bed, when it will hold the mattress together and

make the bed smoother and more comfortable.

The under-sheet is now put on and tucked in all

round, and the bolster laid on the top at the

head of the bed, unless no bolster-sHp is used,

when the under-sheet must be left long enough

to fold over the bolster and completely cover it,

but this is not such a comfortable arrangement.

Next, place on the top sheet with the wrong side

uppermost, and the widest hem at the top to

turn over the blankets. On the top of the

sheets lay the blankets with the open end at the

top (as it is easy then to throw off one fold if the

occupant of the bed should find it too hot).

Then a coverlet or sheet should cover all, and

must be light in weight, as it is meant for night

use. This should be turned in over the blankets

at the top, and the end of the sheet tm-ned over

it; the blankets are thus preserved from dust,

and the bed has a more inviting appearance

when it is turned down for the night. Then

slip in the pillow or pillows on the top of the

bolster without flattening them down, and on a

double bed place the opening of the sHp to the

inside of the bed. Lastly may be put on a

pretty counterpane, which is removed at night.

This should not be tucked in, but allowed to hang

over the sides in graceful folds. If there is a

centre pattern, be sure that tins comes to the

centre of the bed, and any surplus length may bo

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

laid in folds at the foot. If carefully folded up

at night and eJways in the same folds, the

counterpane will keep clean for quite a long

time, and it adds very much to the dfiinty appear-

once of the bedroom during the day.

If an eider-dowTi is used it should be rolled up

or folded double at the foot of the bed. Those

•who like warmth without weight will find it a

great advantage to make the bed with the eider-

down between the upper sheet and the blankets.

The warmth is thereby sensibly increased, and

if the eider-down is well ventilated it is not

unliealthy.

If pillow shams and sheet shams are used,

the pillows should be placed on the outside of

the counterpane during tlie day, and the sheet

sham slipped under the bed-clothes and arranged

so that the embroidered edge rests on the

counterpane.

If there are curtains, draw these back and

arrange the ends neatly on the pillows.

Turning down a Bed. - First remove the

eider-down ; tlien take off the counterpane and

sheet and pillow shams, if there are such, and

fold all these up very carefully, and place them

where they will not be crushed nor sat upon.

Then turn down the clothes about a foot or a

foot and a half at the top of the bed, and one

corner, or two corners if it is a double bed, may

be turned back again towards the centre, but

this is a matter of taste. It is also a question of

taste whether the clothes be left tucked in at

the sides or loosened. Let down and draw any

curtains. See that pillows are nice and smooth

and all straight and even, and then replace the

eider-down, spreading it out over the bed this

time.

Care of Beds. - The strictest cleanliness must

be observed as regards beds, not merely in

the changing of the linen, but in the bed itself

and everything about it.

One hears of beds the spars of which are

never dusted except at the annual period of

spring cleaning, and sometimes not even then.

We ought to remember that the dust in our

houses, and especially in our bedrooms, is not

only earth dust, soot, fraying of carpets and

curtains, &c., but that there is a large admixture

of animal matter, for our outer skin or cuticle

is constantly peeling off and being removed ; and

added to that, this dust if not removed becomes

impregnated with noxious gases exhaled from our

lungs and from the pores of our bodies, and

poisons the air we breathe, thereby greatly

lessening the beneficial effects of sleep. Every

part of the bedstead should be carefully dusted

once a week, a small brush being used if neces-

sary. The best time for this will be before the

bed is made on the day the room is thoroughly

cleaned.

ITie bedstead itself, and especially the under-

part, should bo washed with warm water and

carbolic soap at least once a year. If at any

time insects should appear, the bedstead should

be rubbed over with paraflSn or very strong

ammonia.

Japanned bedsteads may be revived by rub-

bing them over with a little paraffin, and then

poUshing with a leather or soft duster.

Brass bedsteads should bo dusted daily, and

occasionally rubbed over with a little sweet oil

and polished with a leather. Metal polish

should not be used, as the brass is lacquered.

If this wears off it will reqxiire special treat-

ment.

If the mattresses and pillows have been

covered with cotton slips (see p. 258), it is very

easy to have these taken off and washed as soon

as they become soiled. The bedding can then

be thoroughly brushed and beaten, special

attention being paid to the edges and to the

little corners where the mattress is tacked down.

If this can be done out of doors, so much the

better.

The mattresses ought to be taken to pieces

and re- made every few years - not merely because

they will, even with the most careful treatment,

eventually form into hard lumps and hollows,

but because they will really require to be pvu-ified

from animal matter. Although it is possible to

do this at home, this course is scarcely to be

recommended. It is much wiser and simpler to

send them to a good upholsterer.

Blankets, too, must be washed or cleaned when-

ever they require it. Once or t'wice a year will

be sufficient under ordinary circumstances, pro-

vided they have proper care in the way of airing,

shaking, and being kept covered from dust ; but

if they have been used in the case of illness they

must of course be washed specially, and if thљ

illness is an infectious one, disinfected as well.

EMPTYING OF SLOPS AND CARE OF

THE WASH-STAND

The appliances necessary for tliis portion of

household work are : a slop-pail, a can of

boiling water in which a little soda has been

dissolved, a small mop,

two slop-cloths, and a

glass- towel. The slop-

pail used for carrying

about is best made of

enamelled tin, as it is

easily kept in order and

there is no danger of its

breaking. It should al-

ways bo fitted with a lid.

The slop-cloths should

be of some thin open

material, which can be

washed and dried easily. RIop-Pail.

One must be used for the basin and wash-stand

and the second for the chamber and bedroom

slop-pail. It is important to keep each cloth

for its special purpose.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

Commence by emptjdng everytliing into the

slop-pail. Pour a little of the hot soda-water

into the chamber, and aUow it to remain there

while the wash-stand is being put in order.

Rinse out the basin with clean water, using a

little of the soda-water if necessary to remove any

stain or soap-suds. Then pour a little clean

water into the basin and rinse the tumbler and

water-bottle, and dry them with the glass-towel.

Next rinse any sponges or loofahs, &c., and

either hang them up to dry or place them in a

sponge basket. Then pour out the water, and

wipe the basin thoroughly with its special cloth.

Empty the ewer and wash it out if necessary.

If rain water is used there is frequently a con-

siderable amount of sediment which settles at

the foot of the jug.

Wipe also the wash-stand, Ufting each article

and wiping it clean. Pay particidar attention

to the soap-dish.

Wash the chamber with the mop, using the

water that has been standing in it ; rinse and

dry with the special cloth. If there is a slop-pail

belonging to the room, empty this also, wash

with hot water, using the mop. Then rinse

with cold, and dry with the chamber cloth.

Finally fill up the ewer and water-bottle with

fresh water. The former with soft water if

available, and the latter with drinking water.

It is very important that the ewer should be

quite emptied every day ; if old water is allowed

to remain and just a little fresh added, the

water will very soon begin to smell. So let it all

be jresh.

Cover the slop-pail before taking it from the

room, and have the contents emptied at once.

Care too must be taken to keep tliis pail very

clean and fresh. It should be rinsed out every

day with hot soda-wa.er; rinsed, dried, and

then left with the lid off to air. The lid should

have the same treatment, and then be hung up

until required again.

The two slop- cloths should be washed every

day and hung up to dry. The glass-towel if

properly used ought to last a week.

Once a week, usually on the day the bedroom

is being turned out, the wash-stand, &c., wiU

require a more thorough cleaning.

The ware should be taken out of the room if

possible and well washed in the housemaid's

pantry or bath-room. Use hot water and a

little paraffin soap or soap-powder. Pay par-

ticular attention to the handles of ewer and

chamber, and use sniall brush for the corners, if

necessary. The inside of the ewer too must be

washed as well as the outside, and a little soda-

water may be required to remove discoloration.

If the water-bottle has become stained and

dim, it ought to have special treatment. (See

p. 75.)

Wash the wash-stand with a little soap and

water, using a washing flannel or soft brush ;

wipe off the soap and rub up with a towel. Then

replace the ware, and supply with water and

soap too if required.

TO CLEAN WALLS AND CEILINGS

Papered Walls, when they become dirty,

should be thorouglily dusted. To do this, tie

a clean soft duster over the head of a long-

handled broom. Any soft broom will do, pro-

vided the wall is not very high, in which case

it is almost necessary to have a special waU-

broom, or Turk's-head broom, which has a

jointed bamboo handle,

and can be shortened or

lengthened as required.

Sweep every part of the

wall, moving the brush

up and down in long

straight lines, and be

particxilar to remove all

dust from any cornice or

mouldings. The duster

must be changed when

it becomes dirty.

If the paper has still a

soiled appearance after

dusting, it may be

further improved by

rubbing it all over with

stale bread. Cut a

plain dry loaf in four

pieces, and rub the

paper aU over with it.

It will be necessary to

mount on a pair of

steps to do this. Commence at one of the top

corners and rub with Ught even strokes, under-

taking about a yard at a time. There is no need

to rub very hard ; too much vigoiir would only

destroy the surface of the paper. Go over each

piece in a careful methodical way, and in the order

most convenient to yourself. This manner of

cleaning will make a considerable difference to

dirty wall-paper.

The ceiling of a room can be cleaned in the

same way, and special attention must be given to

the corners, where cobwebs so frequently lodge.

Varnished Paper and Painted Walls may be

washed ajter dusting. Take a pail of tepid water,

and add to it enough melted soap to make a

hght lather. Use a sponge, and wash the wall

all over with this. Then carefully remove the

soap with a second sponge or chamois leather

wrung out of clear cold water. Leave the wall

to dry without any further wiping.

TO CLEAN WINDOWS

Windows must never be cleaned in frosty

weather, as the glass is then very brittle and

would be liable to break as soon as moisture

were appUed. Choose a dull di-y day when the

sun is not shining upon them.

Turk's-head Broom.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Painter's Brash.

First dust the windows inside and out, axid

also the woodwork surrovinding them. A

painter's brush or any other soft brush is the

best thing for the purpose. Then take some

tepid water and add enough liquid ammonia to

it to make it smell slightly, or a small quantity

of paraffin. Wring a sponge or chamois leather

out of tliis and wash over the

window with it, paying particular

attention to the sides and corners.

Finish off with a linen duster

or a dry chamois leather. No

material of a fluffy nature must

be used. Clean soft newspaper

makes a very good polisliing-pad.

Commence always at the top and

work downwards.

Paint or other stains can bo

removed from the glass with a

little vinegar or oxaUc acid.

Various powders are now sold

for cleaning windows without

water, and these in many cases

are found quite satisfactory.

Directions for use are given with

each special make.

It must be remembered that

no woman is allowed to sit or

stand outside an upstairs window

in order to clean it ; so that for large windows

wliich cannot be cleaned from the inside, it

will be necessary to employ a man. These

men usually bring their own apparatus. The

usual charge for cleaning is about 2d. a

window.

TO CLEAN BLINDS

Venetian Blinds. - These ought to be thor-

oughly dusted once a week. Let the blinds down,

and by means of a pair of steps, dust all the

webbing and the cords. Then with a soft duster

dust each lath separately. Commence at the

top and work downwards. Do one side first,

all the way down, then turn the blind and dust

the other side. Put the duster over the finger

and rub well round the cords where they pass

through the laths.

Once a year, or even oftener, Venetian blinds

should be washed. Take a basin or small pail

of warm water in which a little soap and borax

have been dissolved, wring a sponge out of this,

and wash each lath separately. Then di[> the

sponge into clean warm water and rub the soap

off the wood. Dry with a soft towel. Or, if

found ea-^ier, the laths may be removed. To do

tliis, undo the knot at the foot of the cord which

runs through the blind. Then pull out the cord

and remove the laths. Wash them as above,

and when thoroughly dry, put them back in

thi ir place and lace the cord through them.

Linen or Holland Blinds. - These should be

dusted weekly. Let the blind down as far as it

will go and with a soft duster wipe it well on both

sides. Dust also the cord and roller.

To clean them more thoroughly they should be

taken down, laid flat on a table and well dusted

on both sides. Then take some stale bread or

bran, and rub this lightly and quickly all over

the material. Dust off with a clean duster. If

this is not sufficient to clean them, they will

require to be washed. Unless the blinds are

small in size, it is not wise to attempt this at

home, as they really require special washing to

give them a good gloss and keep them in shape.

TO WASH PAINT

Dust the paint first, using a soft brush for

the purpose, as this is less likelj- to drive the

dirt into the wood than a cloth. Then have

ready at hand a pail of warm soft water, to

wliich a little dissolved soap has been added,

and a soft flannel ; a second pail of cold or tepid

water with a sponge, and a soft cloth or chamois

leather for drying. Wring the flannel out of

the soapy water, and wash the paint gently with

it. Do not use the flannel too wet, and be careful

to avoid splashing the surrounding wall. Then

rinse off the dirty soap with the sponge and

tepid water, and this will prevent the wood having

a smeary appearance. Finish off with the dry

cloth or leather.

Do not wet too much of the paint at one time ;

if there is a large quantity of woodwork to be

done iL will be a great advantage if two can be

engaged at the work; one to wash, and the

second to follow and do the rinsing and drjang.

The water must be changed as soon as it becomes

dirty.

For varnished paint use tepid water only ; in

fact for any paint care must be taken not to

have the water too hot.

Soda must never be used, but a little borax

may be added with safety to water that is hard.

Care must be taken, too, that the soap used is

of a pure and simple kind. Good yellow soap,

mottled soap, or carbolic soap are to be recom-

mended. Then as regards the flannel, the

ordinary house flannel is too rough, and house-

keepers would do well to save up any pieces of

old flannel, woven under-garments, old b'ankets,

&c., for this purpose. The towels, too, that aro

used must not be of a fluffy nature ; old huck-

aback bedroom towels are excellent for the

purpose.

The woodwork in a house should bo washed at

least twice a year. Flics and other insects lay

their eggs along the crevices of doors andwindows,

and by keeping these clean we can do much to

avoid the arrival of these unwelcome visitors.

Finger-marks and other marks should, of course,

be removed as need arises ; a little benzine

applied on a flannel, or simply a gentle rub with

a soapy sponge, will be sufficient. All hard rub-

bing must be avoided.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

White Enamel Paint. - The following is a very

good preparation for cleaning this special kind

of paint : -

Take one gill of vinegar, one gill paraffin, and

half -gill linseed oil, and shake them together in a

bottle. Apply this to the paint with a clean

sponge or soft flannel and the result will be

excellent. No washing is required.

TO CLEAN MARBLE

When marble is in good condition, it can be

kept in order by simply washing it with soap and

water, rinsed off and then dried. This would

apply to marble wash-stands and slabs which are

in frequent use.

A chimney-piece which is not cleaned so often

may require a httle stronger treatment. Dust

it first, and in this case a Uttle shredded Brook's

soap or SapoUa used along with ordinary yellow

soap or soft soap will be efficacious, and a

brush should be used for any ornamental

parts. Al"7avs rinse off the soap, and take a

second water if necessary. Dry with a cloth

and polish with a chamois leather. Black or

grey marble may be rubbed over with a

little linseed oil after washing to give it a

gloss.

If the marble is stained, the appearance of it

may be improved by the following treatment : -

Take 1 oz. powdered chalk, 1 oz. powdered

pumice-stone and 2 ozs. soda - pound these

together and pass them through a sieve. Then

make them into a paste with boiling water, and

spread this over the marble, especially over the

stained parts. Allow it to remain overnight,

and wash off as before.

Another way of cleaning marble is to coat it

all over with a layer of thick hot-water starch

(see p. 280). This starch penetrates in+o all

the cre%'ices and absorbs the surface dirt. Wlien

dry it will scale off in large pieces, bringing the

dirt away with it. Then wash with soap and

water and dry as before.

Oxalic acid, too, will sometimes remove a stain,

but it must be rubbed on and washed o2 again

very quickly, as it will discolour the marble if

allowed to remain. If a stain is very deep-

seated the only sure way of eradicating it is to

have the marble repolished.

Marble Statuary should be washed with soap

and water only. Sunlight or paraffin soap is

good, but nothing of a gritty nature must be

used. The washing should be done with soft

brushes, small ones being used for any corners

or intricate parts. The water must be changed

whenever it becomes dirty, and care must be

taken t(. rinse off all soap. Allow the marble

to dry, and then polish with a leather or soft diy

brush.

Marble statuary may also be eleaned with a

paste of starch as above.

TO CLEAN PICTURES

The Glass. - To clean the glass of pictures,

dust it first with a soft silk or muslin duster.

Then put one tablespoonful of methylated

spirits into a small basin of warm water (about

two breakfast-cupfuls), wring a sponge out of

this and wash the picture glass all over. Be

careful not to wet the frame when cleaning the

corners and edges. Pay particular attention to

any fly-marks or other stains. Then dry with

a fine towel and polish with a chamois leather.

Oil-Paintings. - These require very careful

treatment. They should be dusted frequently

with an old silk handkerchief or feather brush,

but if the latter is used one must make sure

there are no sharp pieces of quill or wire fasten-

ings which might scratch the canvas. The

picture must be taken down to be cleaned

thoroughly. First of aU it should be dusted,

back and front. Then sponge the oil-painting

very carefully with a fine sponge or piece of

cotton-wool wrung out of lukewarm water.

Soap must on no account be used. Rub the

svirface over Ughtly and quickly, and do not

allow it to remain wet longer than is needful.

Dry with a fine cloth or chamois leather. This

can of course only be done to oil-paintings that

have a coating of varnish over them, as it is the

varnish only that will bear the washing. If

this gets rubbed or worn off, the picture must

be dusted only. If an oil-painting becomes

very much discoloured and dirty through age,

it is better to send it to an expert to have

scientific treatment, as trying different things

at home might easily end in injuring the picture.

Brass Picture-Chains. - These become very

dirty after they have been exposed to the atmos-

phere for some time, but they can be made to

look quite fresh again by the following treat-

ment : - Brush them first with a soft brush, so

as to remove as much of the dust as possible.

Then plunge them into a pail of boiling water

to which a good handful of soda has been added,

and allow them to remain until that is cold.

Next wash them in clean hot water with soap

and a brush, rinse and hang them up to dry.

Finally they may have a rub with the chamois

leather.

Gilt Picture-Frames. - If the frames are made

of inferior gilt they wiU not endure much clean-

ing. Dust them carefully with a soft brush, and

if the gilt has chipped off in places it may be

touched up with a little gold paint, which can be

bought at any oil-shop.

To clean good English gilt frames, dust them

first with a soft brush or silk handkerchief, then

wash gently with a small fine sponge wrung out

of equal quantities of methylated spirits and

water. Or a camel's-hair brush may be used

instead of the sponge. Dry with a chamois

leather.

A little onion water applied with a spongo

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

sometimes helps to restore the colour of the

gilding, and also keeps off flies.

Prepare it thus : - Remove the skin from two

or three onions and boil them in two breakfast-

cupfuls of water until all the goodness is ex-

tracted. Strain through a very fine strainer or

piece of muslin and use warm.

JAPANESE JRAYS OR PAPIER-

MACHE ARTICLES

•Clean these by washing them gently with a

sponge wrung out of tepid water. Tlien dry

with a cloth and poUsh with a little dry flour

rubbed on with a soft dtister or chamois leather.

TO CLEAN MIRRORS

First remove all dust. Then take a basin of

tepid water and add enough ammonia to make

it smell slightly. Wring a sponge or chamois

leather out of this, and wash the glass all over,

going carefully round the edges and into the

corners to avoid wetting the frame, and especially

if it is a gilded one.

Dry with a soft towel, and polish with a

chamois leather or old sUk handkerchief.

If the mirror has not been cleaned for some

time, and is smeared and stained, instead of

washing it, make a paste with fine whitening and

methylated spirits, and rub this well over the

glass with a piece of flannel. When dry, rub

oS with a duster and polish as before.

For gilt frames see p. 71.

TO CLEAN STEEL

If steel is rubbed daily with a dry duster or

leather, and so kept free from dust and moisture,

it ought tў retain its brightness for a considerable

time. When it requires extra cleaning, use very

fine emery paper ; No. 0 is best. Rub the steel

backwards and forwards with this, and always

in the one direction. Cross-rubbing will not

polish properly. Emery powder, fine bath-

brick dust or crocus powder made into a paste

with paraffin or methylated spirits are all good

things for the cleaning of steel. These should be

applied with a piece of flannel and well rubbed on

to the metal. Then a little of the dry powder

used for polishing and the chamois leather for

the final rub up.

The emery paper is, however, cleaner and

simpler to use, and unless the steel is allowed to

get into bad condition, it ought to be sufficient

to keep it in excellent order.

TO CLEAN BRASS

There are many different materials used for

the cleaning of brass, but perhaps nothing is

better than fine bath-brick dust or powdered

rotten-stone made into a paste with a littlo

paraffin or oil of turpentine. Apply tliis with

a flannel, rubbing the brass well ; then rub off

with a second flannel, using a little dry powder,

and polish with a duster or chamois leather.

There are also many modern polishes that can

be used, but with some of them the result,

although good to begin with, is not lasting ;

the brass tarnishes and becomes dim very

rapidly.

Tlie " Blue-bell " polish is one to be recom-

mended, and it has the advantage of being very

clean to use. Directions for its use are given

with each tin. If a paste of any kind is used,

care must be taken that none of it is left sticking

to the brass.

Outside brasses may be kept from tarnishing

by rubbing them over with a Uttle vaseline after

cleaning.

Benares Brass should be washed in very hot

soapy water, and well rubbed with a flannel or

soft brush. If the brass is greasy, add a little

borax to the water, then rinse in hot water and

dry with a towel. If the brass still remains

stained or discoloured, rub it over with the

squeezed half of a lemon and wash again.

Finally polish with a chamois leather. It is

better not to use any polishing paste for chased

work, as it is almost impossible to remove it

entirely ; but a Uttle dry whitening may be

used to poUsh with, if it is very carefully

brushed off.

Lacquered Brass requires very careful treat-

ment, and especially so if it is not of a very good

quality, as the appUcation of paste and a great

deal of rubbing would then be liable to remove

the lacquer, wliich is only a sort of varnish which

can quickly be worn off.

Lacquered articles should be rubbed up fre-

quently with a leather, and if this is not sufficient

to keep them in order, wash them in warm

water with soap and a flannel. Then dry and

polish. Soda must never be used when washing

lacquered goods, but a little borax may be added

if the water is hard.

THE CLEANING OF BOOKS

Books should be kept as free from dust as

possible. If the book-case is covered with glass

this is comparatively easy, but when the books

are placed on open shelves they will require

more attention. Care should be taken to

always cover them with a dust-sheet before any

sweeping is done in the room. Then from time

to time, or as often as necessary, the books should

bo removed from the shelves and thoroughly

dusted. Take them two at a time, and clap

them together to disperse the dust, then dtist

them gently with a very light duster or soft

clothes' -brush. The dust must not be rubbed

into the leaves. The shelves, too, should be

dusted before the books are returned to them.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

THE CABE OF A PIANO

The most important point is to protect it

from all damp. It should never be in a tempera-

ture under 60 dogs. Falirenheit, therefore it Ls

unwise to have it standing in a room where there

is no fire in winter. Great heat is also injiu-ious.

A piano should never be placed against an

outside wall, unless it can be protected in some

way, neither should it stand in a direct draught.

A strip of felt or a pad of silk is sometimes

placed over the keyboard to protect it from

damp and dust.

It is a bad plan to pile books and ornaments

on the top of a piano, as any weight is apt to

spoil the tone of the instrument. A flower vase

with water should be especially avoided, as

there is always the danger of the water being

spilt and soaking between the keys.

Pianos should be carefully dusted with a soft

cloth or silk duster, and polished when neces-

sary with a chamois leather. Any marks on

the keyboard may be removed with a damp

chamois leather, but soap and water should

never be iised.

A piano, whether it is in use or not, should be

tuned regularly by a competent tuner. An

arrangement can be made for this to be done

periodically, generally four times a year, for a

very moderate charge. This will preserve the

instrument and keep it at the necessary pitch.

BRASS CHANDELIERS OR GAS BRACKETS

Keep these free from dust with a soft brush or

duster. When they become soiled, wash with a

sponge wrung out of vinegar and water. Dry

with a soft cloth, and polish with a chamois

leather.

TO CLEAN BRONZE ORNAMENTS

These must never be washed. Dust with a

muslin or silk duster, and use a soft brush for any

ornamental part. If this is not sufficient to

make them clean, sponge the ornaments with

stale beer, using a small sponge, and when dry,

polish with a chamois leather.

TO CLEAN IVORY

Wash in lukewarm water with plain yellow

soap, using a soft brush if necessary to remove

dirt from any carved parts. Rinse and dry.

Then polish with a chamois leather. If the

ivory is stained, rub with a Uttle salt and vinegar,

or salt and lemon juice, after wasliing ; rinse and

dry as before.

Or, if the ivory is discoloured, lift it out of the

soapy water and stand it in the sun. Before it

becomes dry, repeat the process if necessary. It

must not be allowed to remain dry in a hot sun,

or it will warp. Rinse and dry as before.

Kneeling- Mat.

TO CLEAN DOOR-STEPS

First sweep away all the dust with an old

broom kept for the purpose. Then take a pail

of cold or tepid water, a piece of strong floor-cloth

or swab, and some rough hearth-stone, which can

be bought at the rate of two or three pieces for

a penny. A kneeling- mat must always be used.

Wring the cloth out of

the water, and wet over

as much as is con-

venient of the steps at

one time. Then rub

over with the stone

evenly backwards and

forwards, and not in

curves.

Next wring the cloth again out of the water,

and wipe the stone again to prevent it having a

patchy appearance when dry. Then go on to

the next piece of step and do it in the same way,

and so on until all is finished. The sides and

front of the steps must also have attention.

In frosty weather a handful of salt should be

put in the water, and this wiU prevent its

freezing.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR

" WASHING UP "

Before commencing the actual washing of

dishes, &c., a certain amount of preliminary

arrangement is necessary. First of all, one

must see that a plentiful supply of hot water is

available. If there is a hot- water supply in the

house, this is a simple matter if the fire is first

attended to, but if only a side boiler or kettles

are to be relied on, some looking ahead will be

necessary to see that these are filled in time,

and then refilled, when once they have been

emptied, in order to cause no delay in having

to wait for the water to boil.

Then everything that requires washing must

be collected together and put within easy reach.

The contents of dishes on which food has been

served must be put away on clean plates or basins.

All scraps of food, crumbs, remains of mustard

or jam, &c., must be removed from plates ;

slops must be poured out of teacups or coffee-

cups ; remains of tea and tea leaves from the

teapot, and so on.

If this were not done before starting the

washing, the water would not only become un-

necessarily dirty and require more frequent

changing, but the work itself would be dis-

agreeable.

Arrange all articles of one kind together,

plates of different sizes in neat piles, saucers by

themselves in another pile, cups by themselves,

and so on.

Silver and glass ought to be kept apart on a

tray, or in the case of the former in a plate-

basket, until they can be washed. They must

not be mixed up with other dishes.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Knives should be placed blades downwards

in a washer or jug of hot water. (See p. 76.)

If attention is paid to these small points,

*' wasliing up " will be a much simpler affair

than if it were just started in a muddle. Much

time too will be saved, as all unnecessary turning

round and walking about with wet and soapy

hands ^^•ill be avoided.

Two basins or small tubs will be necessary for

the wasliing, one for hot water and the second for

a cold or tepid rinsing water. For silver, glass

and fine china, a small wooden or pulp-ware tub

is best, as this is less liable to scratch or break

fine articles ; but for ordinary dishes, and

especially greeisy dishes, zinc or tin is preferable,

Eis it can bo kept clean more easily.

If the water is hard, it must be softened with

a little soda or borax, and a little soap or soap-

powder must be used if required. Care must,

however, be taken to avoid unnecessary extrava-

gance in the employment of these materials; there

is frequently considerable w£iste caused by their

needless use, and this must be guarded against.

With regard to dish-cloths, these are best

made of some open material which will not re-

tain the grease, such as thin old towelUng, or a

cheap canvas-like material sold for the piirpose.

Some people prefer a mop or dish-,brush

instead of the dish-cloth, and both are useful.

When all is arranged, commence with the

glass and silver, and when these are out of the

way start on the cleanest and least greasy of

the dishes. If there are two people to do the

work, then one can wash while the other does

the drying.

The water must be changed whenever it

becomes dirty ; continuing to wash in the dirty

water would only result in smeary dishes, with

probably an unpleasant smell. This is one of

the most important points to pay attention to.

Another very important point is the use of dry

and clean towels. The thickness of the towel

must be regulated according to the kind of

article being dried. Glass, silver, and china will

require fine smooth towels without a fluffy

surface, while coarser dishes will require a

coarse and stronger material. In all cases

the towels must be clean and free from grease,

and as they become wet should be hung near the

fire to dry.

Finally, when the " washing up " is finished

and everything put away in its place, the dish-

cloths or flannels that have been used must be

washed out and hung up to dry, and also any

towels that require it. The tub or basin must

be well washed and rinsed and set on end to air.

All then will bo clean and ready when wanted

again, and a pood worker is recognised by

attention to these small details.

3ee also detailed directions under special

articles.

For the washing of kitchen utensils, see pp.

92-94.

CARE OF SILVER

The daily care of silver is much more import-

ant than the thorough cleaning which is given to

it at stated intervals. In fact, if a Uttle extra

time were spent over the regular washing and

drj-ing, the " thorough cleaning," as it is called,

need not be oftener than once in tliree weeks or

a month.

The keeping of silver requires a good deal of

care, but it is not difficult if the work is done

with method, and attention paid to a few special

points.

Table silver should be washed as soon as

possible after it has been used. A papier

mache or wooden tub is the best for the purpose,

as then there will be Uttle danger of it scratching

the silver. Take water as hot as the liand can

bear, add a few drops of ammonia and enough

melted soap, " lux " or soap-powder to make a

nice lather. Wash the silver in this, using a

piece of flannel or soft towelling to rub it with.

Rinse in clean hot water, and dry with a finљ

towel whUe the silver is still warm. If allowed

to he wet, it will be difficult to remove the water-

marks. For this reason, if a large quantity of

silver is being done, it is better not to start it all

at one time, but one lot can be finished as far as

the rinsing, and the second lot put to soak in

the soapy water while the first lot is being dried.

When dry give each article a good rub up with

a chamois leather, and then arrange the silver

neatly and in order in the plate-basket, or on a

tray ready to put away.

Throughout the process the greatest care

must be taken not to scratch the silver, and

with this in view it is really better if forks can be

kept by themselves. In the case of real silver,

a careful worker will first lay a towel or piece of

flannel on the tray on wliich the silver is drained,

and, in fact, never allow it to touch a hard surface,

which might be liable to injure it.

Another important point to remember is, that

both towel and lather must be perfectly clean

and free from grease, and in the case of the

former it must be changed when it becomes too

damp. A wot towel is practically useless.

From time to time the silver will bo improved

by having a more special cleaning. One of the

best things to use for this is fine Spanish whiten-

ing or some good plate powder and liquid

ammonia.^ Put a little whitening (not more than

one dessert-spoonful at a time) into a saucer

and mix into a perfectly smooth paste with the

ammonia. It should be of the consistency of thin

cream. Apply tliis to the silver with a piece of

soft flannel, rubbing each article well, and

especially the parts which are most likely to be

1 Elkington & Co. Ltd., Birmingham, sell a plate powder

which ia thoroughly to be recommended. It is free from

mercury, and does not contain chalk in any form. Chalk is

very injurious to silver and electro-plated articles from its

cutting nature, and unfortunately forma the basis of many

of the plate powders in existence.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

stained. Allow this to dry on the silver, then

rub ofE with a second piece of flannel, using a soft

silver brush whereVer necessary to remove the

whitening. Forks require special attention, as

the powder is apt to lodge between the prongs.

The " Selvyt " fork polisher is useful for this

purpose. Tlien polish well with the

chamois leather. When finished, it

must not be handled more than

necessary.

There are many other plate

powders which can be used in place

of the whitening, but care must be

taken to use one that is thoroughly

reliable, as so many of them are

mixed with mercixry, which is in-

jiirious to the plate. Rouge and

hartshorn powder are both very

good, but unless the former is care-

fully removed it looks bad. Methy-

lated spirits may be used instead

of ammonia, and will be found very

satisfactory, but when once a good

method is adopted it should be

Silver Brush adhered to, as it is easier for the

worker and better for the silver.

Silver forks and knives with ivory handles

should not be allowed to soak in water,

or at least the handles must be kept out of

the water, or the heat will melt the cement

which fixes them together. The best plan

is to hold them in the hand while washing

and to place them in a jug for rinsing with

enough boiling water to reach just up to the

handles.

Egg spoons that have become very much

stained with the suJphur from the egg should be

rubbed with a little fine dry salt and then

washed.

A silver teapot may be washed in the same

way, only if it has a wooden handle or

wooden or ivory rings on the handle, it must

not be allowed to soak in hot water. A teapot

must on no account be left standing with the

remains of tea and tea-leaves in it, but should

be emptied and rinsed out with boihng water as

soon as possible after use. When it begins to

have a discoloured appearance inside or to

smell musty, fill it to the brim with boiling

water, and add a piece of washing-soda. Qose

down the lid and let it remain thxis all night.

Next day pour out the soda-water, wash with

soap and water, using a small brush, and rinse

thoroughly. A teapot must be dried inside

as well as outside, and left with the hd open

until quite free from moisture.

Silver should be exposed as Uttle as possible

to the action of the atmosphere, more especially

in damp foggy weather, when it will very readily

tarnish. That which is in daily use should

be kept either in a baize-hned plate-basket and

covered with a piece of felt or flannel, or in a

baize-lined drawer covered in a similar way.

Articles that are not in constant Tzse shotild

be kept in the lined C£ises, or in bags made of

flannel or chamois leather.

A lump of camphor stored with silver will

help to preserve its brilliancy.

Britannia Metal Goods. - Messrs. Dixon and

Sons, manufacturers, Sheffield, have kindlj-

suppHed the following directions for cleaning : -

Rub the article all over with a piece of woollen

cloth, moistened with sweet oil, and then apply

a Httle pounded rotten-stone, or polishing paste,

with the finger till the polish is produced ; after

which, wash it well with soap and hot water, and

when dry wipe off smartly with soft wash-leather

and a httle fine whiting. This simple method

will effectually preserve the colour.

By attending to the above, Britannia metal

goods are warranted to stand their colour any

duration of time.

THE WASHING OF GLASS, WATER-

BOTTLES, DECANTERS, &c.

Glass requires very special care if we want it

to look nice. Tumblers should be washed first

in warm water, with a very Uttle soap or a few

drops of ammonia, using the fingers or a fine

cloth to rub them with. Then rinse them in

clear cold water and place them upside down on

a tray to drain. Use a very fine towel for drying,

as one tli^t is fluffy would leave small particles

on the glass. Care must be taken, too, that the

towel is dry and free from grease, or it would give

the glass a smeared appearance. A final polish

with a chamois leather is sometimes given ; but

this is objected to by some people, because they

think it gives the glass a taste. Wlien a tumbler

has been used for milk or any other Hquid of

a greasy nature, it should be filled with cold

water as soon as possible to prevent the grease

sinking into the glass and making it troublesome

to wash.

Wine-glasses should be treated in the same

way as tumblers, only the greatest care must bo

taken in the drying, because of the slender stems.

If a Httle vinegar is added occasionally to the

water in which table glass is rinsed, it will give it

an extra brightness.

Moulded or Cut-glass Dishes. - When washing

these use a hght lather of soap and warm water,

and a few drops of ammonia as weU, if the articles

are very dirty. A soft brush, too, will be found

useful for removing any dust or dirt from the

crevices. Always rinse well in clear cold water

to remove all trace of soap, and dry and polish

as before.

Water-bottles and Decanters. - WTien these

become stained or discoloured, they may be

treated in one of the following ways : - Fill the

bottle half -full of warm soapy water, and put in

some pieces of brown paper, some tea-leaves or

small pieces of raw potato ; let it soak for some

time, shaking it occasionally, then pour out.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

rinse and drain. Crushed egg-shells or fine sishes

used along with a little soap are also very good.

If none of these are enough to remove the

discoloration, try vinegar and coarse salt -

one part salt to two parts vinegar, undiluted

with water (this can be used more than once) ;

allow them to remain

some hours in the bottle,

then pour out and rinse

and dry as before. Some-

times a brush is an assis-

tance in the washing of

decanters.

If tlio stoppers become

fixed in wine decanters,

it is a good plan to poiur

a few drops of oil round

the neck and place the

^k/g^ \\\ decanter near the fire, and

■^^B .^-^ ^" ^ short time try to

^^Es ^^Su loosen it gently ; if it

^^^B ^^^tI ^^^^^ sticks, wash it in

^^^^B ^^^^ warm water and repeat

^H^B ^^^^ ^^^ process.

^T^^ ^ Sometimes a few gentle

^ taps ■with another stopper

Bottle-Brushes. "^l^ ^^Ip to loosen the

fixed one. Glycerine,

too, is a good thing to use instead of oil.

Flower Vases should be washed inside with a

small brush, and if stained, treated in the same

way as decanters.

TO WASH CHINA AND OTHER DISHES

Tea Dishes. - If these are in daily use, it wiU

be sufficient to wash them in hot water with a

soft dish-cloth ; rinse in cold or tepid water and

dry with a fine towel. If the water is very hard,

a little borax or soap-powder may be added to it,

but soda must never be used for fine -coloured

china, and especially if there is any gilt on it.

Excessive rubbing, too, must be avoided when

finely painted china is under treatment. The

water must not be used too hot, and the china

should not be put in until the heat has been

tested with the hand. If the water is too hot for

the hand to rest in, it is too hot for the china.

Commence with the cups, then the saucers, and

lastly the plates and any jugs or basins. Par-

ticular attention must bo given to the handles of

cups and jugs to see that thoy are clean.

Care, too, must be taken in the drying of fine

china ; it will require very gentle handling.

Tea stains may be removed from cups and

teapots by rubbing them with a little common

salt, or by rubbing a little Brook's soap on a

flannel, and then applying it to the mark. This

will also remove burnt stains from meat-dishes

or pie-dishes.

China Ornaments which are washed only

occasionally will require a little more rubbing,

and the addition of soap to tho water will be

a necessity. A soft brush will also be found

useful when washing any intricate parts. After

wtishing, rinse well ; drain, dry, and polish with

a channiois leather.

Dinner Dishes. - As these are stronger and

generally more greasy than other cliina, the

addition of a little soda to the

water in which they are washed

will bo advisable, except in tho

case of gilded ware, when borax

or soap-powder must be used

instead.

When using soda in the water,

it is a good plan to use a small

mop instead of a cloth to wash

with ; the hands will not then

require to come into such direct

contact with the water. Plates

and other dishes must always

be washed on both sides, and

must always be rinsed in clean

cold or tepid water before being

put aside to drain. If there is

a rack, the plates may be put

straight out of the rinsing water

into that, and a certain amount

of drying will thus be saved.

They should be taken down

when dry, and rubbed over lightly with a

clean dry cloth to give them a polish.

Dish-Mop.

THE CARE OF KNIVES AND STEEL

FORKS

Soiled knives must never be put into a basin

or tub of hot water and allowed to soak, as this

would melt the cement or glue in the handles,

and cause the blades to come apart.

Stand them blade downwards in a knife-

washer or jug with sufficient hot water to reach

just up to the handles, and add a small piece of

soda. Allow them to soak for some Uttlo time,

then wipe them well, handle and blade, with

a dish-cloth, and dry them carefully with a

towel or coarse cloth kept for the purp<^se. If

an ordinary towel is used, the greatest care

must be taken that the knives do not cut it, as

this accounts for many holes whicli appear far

too soon in kitchen and pantry towels.

With regard to polishing the knives, tliis can be

done either on a board or in a knife -cleaning

machine. These latter can now be bought for

a few shillings, and they aro certainly a great

saving of labour, but care must be taken in

their use. Tho knives must in all cases be put

in clean and free from grease, and tho machine

must be turned gently and not more than is

necessary. If the knife-board is used it is a

good plan to remove the worst stains from the

knives, and especially from the points, before

beginning to rub them on the board. This may

be done either with a piece of raw potato dipped

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

in bath-brick dust or knife-powder and rubbed

on the knife, or with a piece of cork used in the

same way. This will lessen the rubbing con-

siderably and lessen the wear and tear of the

knife. Then sprinkle the knife-board with a

little of the powder, and rub the knife quickly

and lightly backwards and forwards on this.

Any pressure must be brought to bear on the

back of the knife rather than on the sharp edge,

and the point must never be rubbed down. The

knives must finally be weU dusted to free them

from all powder, and must be kept in a dry

place.

Should the ivory or bone handles of Icnives

become stained or discoloured, they may be

improved by rubbing them with a cut lemon and

a little dry salt, or vinegar and salt, then wipe

off with a damp flannel and dry. Fine emery

powder moistened with a Httle water and applied

with a flannel is also a good thing to use for

stains.

When knives are not to be used for some

time, it is a good plan to rub the blades with

sweet oil and then to roll them, one by one, in a

piece of flannel or felt, and in such a way that

they do not touch each other. This is especially

necessary in damp districts, because if once rust

is allowed to attack the steel the appearance of

the knife is spoilt.

Steel Forks must be treated in the same way

as knives, only instead of rubbing them on the

board apply the knife -powder or bath-brick

with a piece of flannel. Particular care must be

taken to dust well between the prongs.

THE CARE OF LAMPS AND OIL-HEATING

STOVES

If lamps are used in a household, the care of

them should be in the hands of one person, and

unless there is a capable maid who has time to

devote herself to the work, it is really better for

the mistress to undertake this duty herself. The

Value of a lamp depends upon its being properly

attended to, and if it is allowed to smoke and

smell, it is not only worse than useless, as far as

light is concerned, but there is nothing more

disagreeable.

To begin with, lamps must be cleaned and

filled by daylight, as there is always a certain

amount of danger in working with oil by artificial

light. Needless to say, this must not be done on

the kitchen table, nor where any fine work is in

progress, as lamp-oil stains are very difficult to

eradicate. If a small table cannot be reserved

for ihe purpose, then the best plan is to use an

old tray or a piece of thick mill-board.

A lamp in daily use should be filled tliree

parts full every morning, as it is dangerous to

use when the oil is very low in the reservoir or

container. The oil should be poured in by

means of a feeder, and not from the can itself,

for in the latter case it would be apt to come

out by jerks and be spilt over, or the lamp would

be made too full. It is very important also to

use oil of a good quality. In fact, it is no

economy to buy cheap oil, as it not only gives

an inferior Ught and burns more quickly, but it

is also more dangerous to use. Good oil should

give a white light, have no smell, and be as clear

as water.

Then with regard to the wick ; it is of the

utmost importance that this fits the biirner

well, and it should be just long enough to reach

the bottom of the reservoir. A wick should

last for three months, after that time it is best

to renew it, when the end to be lighted should be

dipped in the oil first. As a rule the wick should

not require cutting, but should be turned low

and the uneven charred part gently rubbed off

with a piece of card-board and the surface made

smooth with the top of the tubes. If it stiU re-

mains uneven, it may then be trimmed carefully

with a pair of lamp scissors. After this any

bla<3k pieces of wick must be removed from the

burner, and the outside of the lamp rubbed first

with a piece of newspaper and then a soft rag,

until free from oil.

From time to time, both the reservoir and the

burner will require to be thoroughly cleaned.

The reservoir should be emptied of all oil and

washed out with warm suds to which a few drops

of ammonia have been added. Rinse thor-

oughly, and then turn upside down in a warm

place to dry. When the burner becomes

clogged and dirty, it should be taken to pieces

(care being taken to notice how it is fixed

together), and put into an old saucepan with

a lump of soda and enough cold water to cover

it. Bring to the boil, and boil for half-an-hour.

Then rinse in warm water, and use a brush if

necessary to remove any charred wick. When

quite clean place in a warm place, or a cool oven

to dry. The lamp must not be refilled until

both reservoir and burner are quite dry, or the

oil will splutter.

Pains must be taken to keep both the chimney

glass and the globe very clean and bright. The

chimney should never be washed, but may be

cleaned with lamp -brushes, or a pad of chamois

leather or felt fastened to a stick. The Selvyt

lamp -cleaner is a most useful article for tliis

purpose. If the glass becomes marked or very

much soiled, a Httle methylated spirits may be

used to remove the stains. The outer globe

should be dusted every day and occasionally

washed in warm water with a little soap, then

rinsed and dried with a glass-cloth.

If a lamp biu-ns badly or smells, it is generally

due to one of the following causes : -

(1) It has been filled too full, and the oil when

heated expands and runs over the sides.

(2) The receiver and burner have not been

wiped after filling.

(3) The wick does not fit properly, or it has

been badly trimmed.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

(4) Inferior oil has been used.

(5) The lamp -glasses are not clean.

When hghting the lamp, turn up the wick only

slightly and keep it burning low until the

chimney is thorouglily heated ; then turn it up

as far as it N%-ill go without smoking.

When not in use the wick must be kept low,

otherwise the oil oozes up tlu-ough it and over

the sides.

To extinguish a lamp (if there in no patent

extinguisher attached), turn down the wick

until it is level with the tube, and blow quickly

across the top of the cliimney.

The best lamps are fitted with a patent burner

which permits of the lamp being blown out with

safetj% or, if overturned, will extinguish itself

at once. Should an accident, however, happen

and the oil be spilt and catch fire, it must be

remembered that water poured over it would only

spread the flame. The best thing to do is to

throw sand or earth on the burning oil, or to

smother the flame with a thick rug. Door and

window should immediately be shut.

The same remarks apply to the keeping of oil-

stoves. It is almost impossible to prevent their

smelling a little, but with proper care this smell

should be so reduced £is to be almost imper-

ceptible.

TO CLEAN BOOTS

Boots should never be cleaned when damp.

If they have been brought in very muddy, they

should be wiped with a damp flannel or a small

wet brush. Then put on to boot-trees, or if

these are not available, stuff the inside with

some crumpled newspaper, and this will help

to keep the boots in good shape. Never put

boots close to the fire to dry, as too rapid drying

will harden, and perhaps crack the leather. It

is much better if they can be allowed to dry

slowly in a warm atmosphere. If the leather

should become hard, a little vaseline or sweet oil

may be applied. This should be rubbed well in

and then off again with a piece of flannel.

It is very important that the inside of boots

should be kept clean during the process of

cleaning. For this reason it is a good plan to

cover the hand that is placed inside the boot

with a clean duster. Gloves, too, should be

worn to protect the hands. Thanks to the

many good boot polishes which can now be

obtained, the old-fashioned liquid blacking,

which was liable to be spleished or spilt where it

was not wanted, is now a thing of the past, and

boot-cleaning may be quite a clean and tid3'

occupation. So much so that many ladies

who do not keep a lady's-maid prefer to

clean their own shoes, and especially those of a

fine quality. In fact all the necessary requisites

can be kept in a very small tin box, and cause no

inconvenience anywhere.

First remove all dust or mud with a brush -

then with a piece of flannel or an old stocking-

leg, apply a little boot-polish, rubbing it well in

and all over the boot, not forgetting the heels and

the back part. Then polish with a polishing-pad ;

one covered with velvet or selvyt cloth is best.

When boots are new and they are found

difficult to polish, a few drops of paraffin added

to the paste will bo found a help.

Brown Boots should be cleaned in the same

way, using brown boot-polish instead of black, or

the ordinary bees' -wax and turpentine (see p. 66)

does very well. Stains may be removed with

lemon-juice or methylated spirits, or with the

inside of a banana skin.

Patent Leather Boots require rather different

treatment. Wipe them first with a damp sponge

and dry them. Then rub over with a flannel

dipped in a little milk. When the leather

becomes shabby it is better to use one of the

special polishes sold for the purpose at any

bootmakers ; or a small quantity of vasehne

well rubbed in will keep them soft and bright.

The edges of the soles should be blackened.

White Shoes. - Those made of canvas or drill

should be cleaned with pipeclay or whitening

mixed to a creamy consistency with cold water,

then applied evenly with a sponge or piece of

soft rag. Place the shoes in the sun to dry, and

then hghtly brush off any superfluous powder.

White kid shoes should be cleaned with a special

dressing sold for the purpose.

CARE OF BRUSHES

House Brushes should all be soaked in cold

water for some hours, and then well dried before

they are used. This prevents the hairs or

bristles from coming out, and increases the dura-

bihty of the brush.

When house-brooms and such-like become

dirty, they should be washed. Put a little

boiling water in a pail, and add a handful of soda

to it. Then pour in cold or tepid water until the

pail is three parts full. Take the brushes one at

a time, carefully remove from them all fluff,

thread ends, hairs, &c., and work them up and

down in the soda-water. Rinse thoroughly in

cold water and shake well to get rid of as much

moisture as possible. Dry in the open air or

hang up in a warm atmosphere.

Brushes should never be left lying or standing

on their bristles. Small brushes can be hung up,

and the longer brooms should be kept in a rack.

No pieces of wool nor fluffy matter should be left

sticking to the bristles.

It is also very important that brushes be kept

for the special purpose for which they are in-

tended, and not used for all and sundry purposes.

EXTERMINATION OF PESTS

Beetles. - These objectionable insects infest

usually the ground floor and kitchen premises

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

of houses. They disappear in the daytime and

come out at night through the cracks in the

flooring, and they multiply so rapidly that

Brush-Hack.

sometimes they can be counted by the thousand.

They will attack food of all kinds, and the

leather of boots and shoes ; in fact, everything

that comes in their way.

Many different kinds of traps have been in-

vented, and they all serve their purpose for the

time being, but one of the safest and surest

methods of extermination is the use of " Blatol."

Spread this paste upon pieces of thick paper

about three or four inches square. Lay these

at night in the places most frequented by the

beetles. Remove the papers in the morning

and burn them. Lay fresh papers with the paste

every night for a week, or more, then every

second or third night until all the beetles have

disappeared. The " Blatol " so effectively de-

stroys them, and at the same time so com-

pletely dries them up, that their dead bodies do

not emit the slightest smell.

Fleas. - Strict cleanliness, good ventilation and

plenty of light and sunshine are the greatest

enemies of this kind of pest. Fleas flourish in

warmth, dirt and darkness ; these are just the

conditions which favour their development.

If a bed becomes infested, the best thing is to

have the mattress brought out into the sunshine

and thoroughly brushed. The blankets, too,

should have the same treatment. Then the bed-

stead itself should be well washed with carbohc

soap and water, and also the flooring under the

bed. Tlirow the windows of the room well

open and let it be thoroughly aired. Various

powders are also used for the destruction of

fleas, and most of these contain the plant sub-

stance " PjTethrum," which has accordingly

been popularly known as " Fleabane." This

can be bought in powder form from any chemist,

and other ready-made insect powders can also

be obtained. Lumps of camphor laid between

the bedclothes, or carried in a small muslin bag

on the person, is also a preventive, but the chief

destroyer of all is cleanliness.

Moths. - It is very important that all moths on

the wing should be destroyed as soon as they

are seen. They lay their eggs in all kinds of

woollen materials, carpets, blankets and bedding,

upholstered fxirniture, &c.

Any article that is hkely to be attacked should

be brushed frequently, and special attention

should be paid to them in the month of September,

which is about the time when the eggs are laid,

and then again in the month of March, when

the insect is still in a dormant state.

Care, too, must be taken of woollen things that

are laid away for any length of time. They should

be well brushed, and then folded up in a news-

paper or sown into cotton with something

aromatic, such as cloves, caraway seeds, camphor,

naphtha balls, or sprigs of the common bog

myrtle put between the folds of the material as

preventive. The moths seem to disUke the

printer's ink on the newspaper, and they won't

eat through cotton. When a mattress or

piece of upholstered furniture is once really

attacked by moths it will require to be sent

away to be professionally stoved and cleaned.

Bugs. - These are rarely found in clean and

weU-kept houses, although occasionally through

accident they may be introduced. They must

bo attacked at once, as they breed very rapidlj%

Whenever their presence is noticed in a bed-

room, the bedding must have the most careful

attention. The mattress shovild be well brushed,

and especially in the corners and crexices, where

eggs may possibly be laid. Then the bedstead

itself should be taken to pieces, thoroughly

washed with hot water and carbolic or paraffin

soap. Wlien dry, paint it over with turpentine

and allow it to air. Any woodwork too that

seems to be infested should be painted over

with turpentine.

A formaline lamp left burning in the room is

very good for fumigating.

Mice. - The best plan is to starve them out.

All eatables should be enclosed, and nothing

left uncovered that would supply them with food.

A cat or small dog which is a good mouser are

also preventives. A trap, too, is often very

effectual in catching a stray mouse here and

there, and in frightening away others. There

are many different kinds, but perhaps the old-

fashioned make, which catches the animal alive,

are the most humane ; others, which are supposed

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

to kill instantaneously, often succeed in only

half doing it, and so caxising unnecessary

Buffering.

There are different poisons too which can be

bought for the destruction of mice, of wliich

phosphorus paste is perhaps the best ; but care

must be taken in using them, and especially if

there are domestic animals in the house.

Rats. - WTien rats enter a house, it is often

a sign of insanitary drainage, and if that is the

case the wrong must be seen to at once, and

the necessary repairs carried out. Or it may be

that the house is in the close proximity to a

stable, and the rats have made their way into

the house through some holes. A trap is some-

times of good service for catching the rats, and

directions for baiting them are usually given

with each special kind. Poisoning is another

method ; but this must be done with caution, and

especially if there are any domestic animals in

the house. Another danger of poisoning is

that the dead bodies of the rats sometimes

decompose under the flooring, and cause a very

bad smell. A small dog, a terrier, sometimes

keeps them away most effectively.

If the rats become numerous, a rat-catcher

should be employed, who will hunt the rats out

with trained ferrets. When once the vermin

have been got rid of, all holes by which they

have entered should be carefully filled up with

cement or plaster.

Flies. - When flies are numerous, it is a good

plan to wash the windows and window ledges

with a strong solution of carbolic, or if the smell

is an objection, sprinkle with Persian powder at

night, and then sweep up in the morning. Fly -

papers will also catch a number, but they are

rather disgusting things to use. They should if

possible be put in out-of-the-way places, such as

the tops of cupboards. A very simple fly-paper can

be made by spreading treacle or honey on brown

paper, and sprinkling it with Persian powder

or other insect poison. Fly-papers prepared

with some sticky substance to which the flies

adhere and endure a slow torturing death should

be avoided- Another good way of getting rid of

flies when they become numerous is to disinfect

the room \\-ith sulphur.

The blow-fly, which is larger than the common

house-fly, is the kind most to bo dreaded, as it

is a great enemy in the larder. It frequently

lays its larvae in meat, which causes it to de-

compose very quickly. In hot weather all

meat should be examined when it is received,

and if anything is suspected, it should be care-

fully washed \^-ith a solution of Condy's fluid and

water. The proportions to use will be found

printed on the bottle. The meat should then

be well sprinkled with pepper or other spice,

wliich will help to keep the flies away. It is a

good plan to fasten a piece of muslin or fine

gauze over the larder window to prevent the

flies entering.

Ants. - These are very troublesome creatures

to get rid of when once they infest a house, and

sometimes different remedies have to be tried

before one succeeds. One of the best is to find

the opening through which the ants come, drop

in some quicklime, and wash it over with boiling

water. A strong solution of carbolic acid or

spirits of camphor might also be tried, as ants aro

very averse to strong smells. Or, again, some

petroleum or tobacco juice poured over their

nests is sometimes effectual.

SPRING CLEANING

Every year, as soon as the cold days of winter

are over, and the promise of fine weather bids

fair to be reahsed, the thoughts of the busy

housewife turn towards preparations for the

inevitable " Spring Clean." There are still

some people who look upon this yearly cleaning

as a perfectly unnecessary fetish before which

the housewife bows down in deference to a mere

time-honoured tradition. This point of view

is erroneous, and those who share it show but

httle knowledge of the art of housewifery.

However clean a house is kept, and however

regularly the various rooms go through their

daily and weekly cleaning, it is always necessary

to have a special cleaning from cellar to garret

once a year at least. This is not intended to

take the place of the daily or weekly cleaning,

but rather to supplement it, and to give an

opportunity of attending to such matters as can

most conveniently be seen to at this season,

when all necessary renovation, papering and

whitewashing can also be undertaken.

This annual cleaning need not necessarily take

place in the spring - the time may be arranged

according to the convenience of the household ;

but spring is the season which appeals to most

people as being the most natural time for hav-ing

a good " turn out." After a long winter, things

have put on a dark and dingy appearance, and

seem very much out of keeping with the fine

weather and the bright sunsliine. There is a

desire to get rid of all dark curtains and other

hangings that have been in use all tlirougii the

wintry months of the year, and to replace them

with something Light and pretty, and to give

things generally a fresher appearance.

The best time for this cleaning is the beginning

of May, when fires are reqmred less regularly, and

the weather is likely to remain fine. If, however,

the autumn or summer suits the arrangements

of the household better, it is by no means

necessary to adhere to any rigid rule.

A spring cleaning may be hard work while it

lasts - a few days of undesirable toil ; but there

is another side to the picture. What a feeling of

satisfaction and air of content there is when all

is accomplished, and how fresh and bright the

rooms look after they have had their yearly

overhauling, and put on their spring dress.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

The spring is also the tirae to see to any repairs

and renovations, as, for instance, the re-covering

of any furniture which has grown shabby, the

re-gilding of any picture-frames which require it,

the mending of all locks and door-handles, and

so on. Then a new shelf or cupboard might be

put up here and there, and any Httle additions

made which might add to the comfort of the

home. Deficiencies in stock, too, should be

replenished, broken and cracked dishes discarded

or given away, and numbers and sets of things

made up as completely as possible, so that the

work of the house may start anew with a suffi-

ciency of materials and implements.

Importance of Method. - In former times

the advent of the annual spring cleaning was

looked upon with positive terror by the un-

fortunate householder. To him it represented

a period when he would return home from his

hard daily work in the city to find a tired,

untidy-looking, cross-tempered wife, furniture

heaped pell-mell in all the passages, pails of

water and scrubbing brushes at every turn, and

curl-papers bristling in the hair, and a liberal

display of smuts upon the face of " !Mary Jane."

His evening meal, more often than not, would

have to be taken haphazard in the kitchen,

where pots and pans and other culinary para-

phernalia in the various stages of the cleaning

process would not add to the comfort of his

surroundings. Small blame to the man who

under these circumstances would seek refuge

in the comfort and cheerful society to be found

at his club !

In these days of up-to-date cleaning con-

trivances such a state of affairs should be inex-

cusable, yet in many houses to-day the words

" Spring Cleaning " and " Discomfort " are still

synonymous. The extent to which cleaning

becomes a nuisance depends very much upon

the way in which the work is performed. Some

system should be decided on beforehand, and a

haphazard way of doing things must be avoided.

By the exercise of a Uttle foresight much time

and worry may be saved, and method, organi-

sation and thoroughness will bring the work to

a speedy conclusion. For instance, if painters,

joiners, plumbers, or any other workmen are

likely to be required, they ought to be engaged

in good time ; the services of the sweep too

must be retained, and if extra help is required,

a charwoman must be engaged.

Before the work is started in real earnest, the

housewife should make sure that she has in

stock a good supply of all the necessary cleaning

materials, such as carbolic soap, soft soap, soda,

soap-powder, borax, amimonia, methylated

spirits, bees' -wax, &c., and also a sufficiency of

towels, cloths, dusters and brushes to carry on the

work. Of course the ideal way to do a spring

cleaning is to have the house emptied of all its

occupants, except only those who are taking

part in the work. Then the correct order in

which to do it would be to commence at the top

of the house, and to work downwards, beginning

with the lumber-room, if there is one, then the

bedrooms, next the sitting-rooms, bath-room

and lavatory, finishing with the kitchen, cellars,

and any outhouses. In the case of a flat a

different order may perhaps be taken. If this

ideal plan cannot be followed, then it is best to

do the cleaning by degrees, and not to plunge the

whole house into discomfort by undertaking the

whole performance at once. In fact, some

mistresses find it more convenient to clean half

the house in the spring and the other half in the

autumn, or even to clean only a single room now

and again. In this way it does not seem such

a formidable undertaking for servants.

Each day's work should be carefuUy planned.

Too much must not be undertaken at a time, but

only what can be done without undue effort.

There is never anything to be gained by over-

taxing one's strength. A point should be made

of ha\'ing comfortable meals served all the time,

as without this the end of each day would

simply mean exhaustion.

There will be a great saving of time when the

actual cleaning begins if all cupboards and

drawers can be turned out beforehand. When

they have been emptied of their contents, the

insides should be scrubbed out with carboHe

soap and warm water, and then left some time to

air. Meanwhile the contents should be looked

over, and all rubbish disposed of. The remainder

should then be dusted, brushed or washed,

according to the nature of the various articles,

and put in gc/od order. Then the shelves and

drawers should be neatly lined with clean paper,

and the contents put back in an orderly fashion.

Any winter coats or dresses which are not likely

to be required for some time should be well

brushed, and if possible hung in the open air

for some hoiirs ; then carefully stored with

some preparation which will keep the moth

away. (See p. 314.) Winter curtains should

undergo the same treatment.

Books, and book-cases too, and stands with

music, should all be cleaned and sorted out

beforehand, and any magazines or pamphlets

that are of no further service destroyed, or sent

to some hospital for the use of the patients.

Spring Cleaning a Bedroom. - The first thing

to do before ha\nng a room spring cleaned is to

make it as empty as possible. If it is a bedroom,

the bedding should first be seen to. All the

coverings, including the covers of mattress and

pillows, should be sent either to be cleaned or

washed. Then if there is a garden to wliich

things can be taken easily, everything which

requires shaking and brushing should be taken

outside, such as mattress, pillows, cushions,

rugs, upholstered chairs (unless too hea^'y to be

moved), &c.'; and after they have been cleaned

either left in the open air or in an adjoining

passage until the room is ready to receive them.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

All pictures, ornaments, and small articles of

furniture should be dusted before they are

removed from the room, to avoid having dust

carried to another part of the house ; and that

wliich must bo left because of its size or weight

must be dusted first, and then carefully covered.

If there is a nailed-down carpet, this must be

lifted, and folded up carefully to prevent the

dust flying about, and then taken away to bo

cleaned or beaten. The floor should then be

sprinkled with a Uttle wet saw-dust or bran,

swept with a soft brush, and the dust burnt at

once.

Should the cliimney require sweeping, this

should now be done, the sweep having been

engaged beforehand. It is well also to see that

the work is properly carried out, and that the

brushes have been carried up the whole length

of tlie chimney.

When this is finished, the room is now ready

for any papering and painting that may be re-

quired, and must perforce be left in the painters'

hands until their work is completed. If nothing

of this kind is necessary, the cleaning must be

done in the following order : - First, get rid of all

dust by dusting all walls, curtain poles, blinds,

and woodwork ; secondly, black-lead and polish

the grate ; and thirdly, do all the washing that is

required, such as woodwork, marble, furniture,

including windows, bedsteads, floors, &c. Then

the room ought to be left to air and dry with

door and window wide open.

Meanwhile the articles of furniture, &c., out-

side can have attention, and as far as possible

everything should be cleaned before it is brought

back into the room. When everything is dry,

all necessary polishing should be done. Pictures

can then be re-hung, and everything as far as

possible returned to its proper place. The carpet

should of course be re-laid as soon as it is ready ;

only if tlois hsis been sent to the cleaners, it may

be necessary to wait for two or three days.

Fresh curtains should then be put up, clean

chair-covers, and cushion-covers where they are

needed, and dainty touches given to make every-

thing look pretty.

A Sitting-room. - The order in which a sitting-

room is " spring cleaned " would be very much

the same as that followed for a bedroom (with

the exception of the bed), but there will probably

bo more furniture and odds and ends to attend to.

Hall, Staircase and Bath-room. - It is always

well to leave the staircase and bath-room until

all the other rooms are finished, as there will of

necessity be more tramping up and down the

former while the cleaning is going on, and the

latter has frequently to bo used for the washing

of ornaments, bedroom ware, &c. The walls

of the bath-room should always be of a washable

nature, and then the cleaning is a very easy

matter, as it simply means that every part must

be washedfrom the top downwards, finishing with

thefloor. If the bath itself has become veryehabby

it should bo re-enamelled. Tliis can be done at

home, although as a rule home enamelling is

not very satisfactory, and if the extra expense can

be afforded, it is much bettor to have it done by a

skilled workman. When the washing is finished,

the door and window should be left open to dry

and air tlie room, and then the polishingof brasses,

woodwork and floor should be undertaken.

The hall and staircase is a more difficult

undertaking. The rugs and stair-carpets having

been removed, and all pictures, &c., taken from

the walls and moved out of the way, the first thing

to see to will be the cleaning of the walls. If

they are very high, it is scarcely work that can

be undertaken by maid-servants, especially if

tlie walls require wasliing ; if it is simply a matter

of dusting them down with a long broom, it may

be possible. The stairs, railings, and banisters

must next be well brushed and washed, and also

the floor of the hall and any passages. Wash

also any pieces of furniture that require it, in-

cluding gas globes, flower-pots and ornaments.

Next polish all woodwork, stair-rods, brasses

and furniture, and lay the ceu-pet and rugs last

of all.

The Housemaid's Pantry. - In a well-appointed

house where there are several servants there is

generally a small room set aside for the house-

maid's requirements. It is usually upstairs in

close proximity to the bedrooms. This little

Housemaid's Box.

room should contain all that the housemaid

will require for cleaning purposes, (oeo list

on page 83.)

It should be fitted up with a sink and be

supplied with hot and cold water. There should

also be a shelf at a convenient height for holding

hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, dust-sheets,

&c., and, if room, a rack for hanging brushes and

a small pulley or towel -rail for drying the various

cloths. It will also be convenient to have a

small cupboard in which cleaning materials

could be kept in jars, also paper and sticks for

lighting fires. A small solid table would also

be most useful if space permits, as on this the

housemaid could do any special cleaning of

silver or brass required for the bedrooms and

also the brushing of clothes that come under her

care. A few hooks should be put up along the

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

edge of the shelf and at the sink, as they will be

found handy for hanging up small articles, such

as taper-holder, bottle brushes, sink brush,

tin jug, &c.

The following is a list of the articles wliich the

housemaid's pantry might contain : -

A housemaid's box, a slop-pail, a pail for

housework, a pair of steps, a kneeling-mat, a

dust-pan, hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, a

large can for carrying water, a tin jug, a soap-

dish.

Brushes. - A carpet switch, a long broom, a

small short-handled broom, a banister brush,

a wall-broom, a carpet-sweeper, a fvuriiture

brush, boot brushes, black-lead brushes, two

scrubbing brushes, a bottle brush, hearth brush,

clothes' brush.

Cleaning Materials, &c. - Wasliing soda.

Brook's soap or Sapolio, yellow soap, polisliing

paste, furniture polish, boot polish, turpentine,

ammonia, bees' -wax, coarse salt, emery paper,

black-lead, paper and sticks, or fire-lighters,

matches, taper in holder.

Towels, &C. - Dusters, glass towels, slop-

cloths, washing cloth, swabs, coarse towels for

drying floors, &c., old soft towels for drying

paint, two chamois leathers, pieces of flannel for

cleaning purposes, dust sheets, hearth cloth,

grate cloths, a pair of gloves.

A REMOVAL

Introductory. - Thanks to modern enterprise

on the part of removal contractors, this does not

require to be the dreaded affair it was in days

gone by. Although a removal is undeniably

somewhat of an undertaking, it can be robbed of

many of its terrors if it 's put into the hands of a

reliable firm, and the preliminaries are arranged

with some thought and care.

Of course, if money is no object, it is quite

possible to step out of the old house in the

morning and spend the day enjoyably in town,

or with friends, and to walk into the new home in

the evening to find there that one's belongings

have been bodily transported and placed in

position, leaving very little to bo done except

the arrangement of personal belongings to one's

own liking, and other small details.

But this expeditioiis and easy way of manag-

ing the business means money, and we are not

all lavishly endowed with this world's riches.

People of modest means must be prepared to

buckle to when such an important affair as a

removal is on hand, and undertake some of the

work and arranging themselves.

Thought, advice and experience can, however,

do mu';!h io lessen discomfort, and prevent chaos,

and the more carefully the order of the removal

is planned the easier the change of house will be.

Making the Contract. - The first point to

decide is how the furniture has to be removed,

and by whom. It is always best to choose ex-

perienced removers, for although the initial ex-

pense may appear more, the ultimate sa\'ing in the

avoidance of breakages and kindred annoyances

is unquestionable. It is better, if possible, to

choose a firm near at hand, who will send a re-

presentative to look at the things and furnish

an estimate free of charge. He will also

tell you what arrangements it is necessary to

make, and what preliminaries must be attended

to. Removals can now be conducted to all

parts of the United Kingdom in vans of the

most improved construction (pantechnicons),

and all risks and responsibihties are undertaken.

The charge will depend on the quantity and

quahty of the furniture, and upon the distance it

has to be moved.

Preliminaries in the Old House. - Before the

actual removal takes place there are certain

preUminaries which must be attended to, both in

the old house and in the new.

One very important point to attend to before

lea\'ing the old house is to turn out all the

rubbish. Clothes that are of no further use,

broken and hoarded crockery, damaged and

soiled knick-knacks, old saucepans and kettles,

empty bottles and jam-pots, all should be dis-

posed of ; in fact everything should be done to

avoid the carriage of dirt and worthless stuff.

Old papers should, however, be kept, as these

will be found useful when packing.

Then all the furnitiu-e should be sorted oufc

and considered with a view to its place in the

new abode, and that which is unsuitable should

be sold or otherwise disposed of. It sometimes

happens that an incoming tenant will only be

too pleased to buy odds and ends of furniture,

and even a carpet or two.

Furniture which requires repairing, cleaning

or re-covering, and pictures requiring new frames

or re-gilding, should be sent away to have the

necessary attention, and not returned until the

new house is ready to receive them. The decora-

tion and colouring of the new house must of

course be borne in mind when choosing any

new upholstery, and shades must be chosen

which will tone well with the new surroundings.

All carpets should be hfted and sent awaj' to

be beaten or cleaned, according to what is

necessary. Ciu-tains, too, which require cleaning

or dyeing, and any heavy extra washing, such as

bed-covers, spare blankets, &c., should be sent

from the old house, and returned to the new, as

in this way some of the removal expenses will

be saved.

Of coiirse this means a certain amount of

dismantling beforehand, but upon the whole

it is better to have the discomfort before the

removal rather than after it has taken place.

Once in the new quarters one is naturally

anxious to get settled as quickly as possible,

and it is annoying to have to wait for this or

that to arrive upon the scene.

Preliminaries in the New House. - The business

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of a removal can be very much simplified if one

can obtain possession of the now house some

time before it is necessary to move into it. The

house can then bo made ready, and entered with

comfort.

First of all, every chimney should be swept.

Tlien whatever whitowasliing, papering or

painting that is necessary should be done.

It is fortunate for a new tenant when the

landlord undertakes to do up the house

throughout, and will give the choice of papers

and colouring.

When the workmen have finished, it will next

be necessary to have all the floors scrubbed with

carbolic soap, soda and a brush, and under no

circumstances should one be satisfied with the

superficial cleaning given by the painters, or even

by the late tenants. Grates and windows can

then be cleaned, and if it is winter time, coal

should be ordered in and fires put on so as to

thoroughly dry and air the rooms. The hghting

and heating arrangements should be carefuUy

tested and necessary alterations made, as it is

most annoj-ing later on to have to disturb carpets

or linoleum for the sake of laying a new gas-

pipe or an electric wire. The water-pipes and

taps should also be seen to, and the cistern

thoroughly cleaned out.

Then the question of floor covering should be

considered. It is an immense help if all linoleum

and any nailed-down carpets can be laid before

the furniture is brought in. This is really

the secret of being quickly settled. When once

the carpets and linoleum are satisfactorily laid,

then the furniture can be brought in with the

happy feeling that it will not require to be moved

again. Besides, it is much easier to fit and lay

down a large carpet in an empty room than it is

when heavy furniture has to be lift/od and moved

from one place to another. Of course, if the

carpets consist merely of small squares or large

rugs, it would be wiser to defer laying them until

later on in the proceedings. Linoleum in any

C€we, and especially that which surrounds a

room, should be put in position previous to the

moving in of the furniture.

Then with regard to curtains and blinds, if

any of these can be put up beforehand, it will

greatly add to the comfort of the first few days,

even although the old house has to be robbed of

them a trifle sooner in consequence.

Packing. - While years ago it weis deemed

necessary to pack all furniture, to tie wisps of

straw round the legs of tables and chairs, and

even sew each article into a sheet of sacking in

order to preserve it from ill-treatment, now one

can confidently leave the tables, chairs, and such-

like to the removal men, who are in most cases

trained specialists to the work. The largo vans,

or pantechnicons, take most things, and especially

the heavier articles of furniture, just as they are.

It is also bettor to leave the packing of glass,

china, and other breakables to the men, who will

bring the necessary crates and straw for the

purpose. They will be much more hkely to

avoid breakages than any amateur packer,

however careful he (or she) may be. It must

be remembered too, that a removal contractor

can only be held responsible for things he has

packed himself, and not for those packed by the

owner.

Of course there are always a few things which

can be packed beforehand, and if all small things

can be stowed away in portable cases, the

actual removal is done in a very short time.

Books, for instance, can be safely packed ; they

should be dusted first, and then put in cases

lined with paper. Any precious volumes with

fine or delicate bindings should be wrapped

separately in paper, in order to prevent them

from being scratched or rubbed. In the case

of large heavy books, it is better to make them

up in bundles, and put a piece of cord round

them. If they have a valuable binding, they can

be wrapped in paper as well. The packages

must not be made too heavy. Music too may bo

tied up in the same way.

Clothing and personal belongings should also

be packed. These will go very well in boxes

and drawers. The latter can quite well be

utilised, as the men simply carry out the different

pieces of the chest, and put them in position

again in the van, and nothing can come to harm.

A towel or large cover should be laid over the

contents and well tucked in. Household Unen

should be packed away in the same manner.

If there is no room for blankets and eider-downs,

they can be made into a bale which can easily

be lifted. Silver and other valuables should be

put in a chest, and securely fastened.

The Removing. - This shoiild always be com-

menced early in the morning, at six o'clock in

the summer, and at eight o'clock in the winter at

the very latest. Althoiigh everything may be

left to the workmen, as a rule, it is better for the

members of the household to take a share in

order to expedite matters. In fact, if the re-

moval is to be got over rapidly, the only way is

for each one to give assistance where h'^ or she

can.

Beds and bedding should always be sent in

the first van, and placed where they will come

to hand easily at the other end. Things should,

as far as possible, leave the old house and arrive

at the new in the sequence in which it is most

convenient to handle them.

As soon as the packing into the van is well

on its way, a responsible person should, if

possible, act as pioneer and start for the new

house, so as to be on the spot when the first van

arrives to direct the carrying in of the furniture.

If this cannot be done, then each piece of furni-

ture should bo marked, or labelled, so as to in-

dicate the room for which it is destined. As

far as possible, each article should be carried

to its own room and nowhere else ; and in fact it

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK

may, in many cases, be actually put down in its

proper place.

A strip of coarse matting should be laid over

each carpet, to prevent the meia's feet making

marks.

It is a good plan to get every bed that is to

be slept in put up and made early in the evening,

and then, even if it is ten o'clock before the last

vanful of furniture is unloaded, one can shut the

door and feel that at least a place of repose is

secure. Otherwise, one is inclined to go on

working at other things until a late hour, when

there is httle strength left to make a bed far

less put one together.

The question of refreshment on the day of

removal is also an important one. It is often a

saving of time if the men can be provided with

a lunch of bread and cheese, and beer or coffee ;

and if it is intimated to them beforehand that

this will be ready at a certain hour, it will save

their time going off to some pubhc-house in

order to get refreshments.

A good tea at the other end should also be

provided, if at aU possible.

For the members of the family, cold refresh-

ments, supplemented by hot drink, must suffice,

and those who are not strong enough to support

this frugal r6gime should be out of the way, if

possible, on the removal day. Of course it

sometimes happens that kind friends come

forward and invite the party to a comfortable

meal, and this of course is an untold blessing,

not only from the point of view of the mere

food question, but in regard to the respite

afforded from the bustle and hurry of the

day's work. Then at the other end, if a maid

can be sent over in good time to light a fire and

take a picnic basket wii/h her with necessaries

for tea, this little meal will prove a comfortable

welcome to the new home.

Settling Down. - As soon as the bedrooms

have been put fairly straight, it is perhaps best

to give one's first attention to the sitting-rooms

and kitchen, as when once these are in order

and meals can be served with comfort, the worst

of the removal is practically over.

The stair carpet and hall rugs should be put

down last of all, when all the carrying and extra

walking backwards and forwards is at an end.

Then there will no doubt be extra furniture

required, and additions of various kinds to

make, but it is just as well not to hurry the

buying of new things, as it is much more easy

to judge what is needed when everytiiing is in

its place, and one has been in the house for a

few days.

It will of course be weeks before all the odds

and ends are put finally in their places, but

these trifles do not matter, and once the real work

of removal is over and the new house begins to

look ship-shape, it should only bo a pleasure to

arrange the various trifles and knick-knacks to

one's liking.

SHUTTING UP A HOUSE

If a house has to be shut up for three months

or longer, it is better to lift all carpets, and to

take this opportunity of having them sent away

to be cleaned or beaten. Take down aU curtains

and other hangings, shake them well and fold

them up neatly. Remove all chair-covers, table-

covers, antimacassars, &c., brush or shake them,

and fold them up hkewise. Keep the furniture

as much as possible to the centre of the room,

where it will be safe from damp or soot, and

cover everything with dust-sheets or large sheets

of paper. Any valuable pictures should either

be taken down from the walls or covered with

fine gauze or muslin, to preserve them from dust.

Light and fragile articles, such as ornaments and

clocks, should also be covered in tins way.

All soiled Unen should be collected and sent

to the wash if possible.

Close and fasten aU windows, and leave nothing

open where rain can enter.

Grease any metal fenders or fixe-irons with

mutton fat, draw them away from the fixe-place,

and cover them over.

Turn off the gas from the main, and leave all

waste-pipes connected with the water open.

No food must be left behind, wliich would be

hkely to smell or encourage mice and other

vermin. Kitchen premises especially should be

left well swept and as clean as possible.

All valuables, such as silver and jewels, shovild

be packed in a strong box and sent to the bank.

Pull down all blinds, or if there is danger of

their being spoilt with the sun, cover the windows

with brown paper, fastening it up with strong

drawing-pins. Close and bolt the shutters, and

shut and lock all doors.

Notice should also be given to the poUce that

the house is closed, and they will give it special

attention.

WHAT TO DO IF FIRE OCCURS

Fire accidents, large or small, are liable to

occur in every house, and one ought to be pre-

pared to take the necessary precautions to pre-

vent the spreading of the flames.

In the case of a partial fire, speedy action may

be the means of putting it out at once. For

instance, if a curtain catches fire, which fre-

quently happens owing to its too close proxi-

mity to a gas-bracket, it should be pulled down

quickly (provided the person who does so is

clothed in a woollen dress), and the flames

crushed out with a piece of carpet or a rug, or,

if the damage has not gone very far, they might

be beaten out with a rug or wet cloth.

A wet blanket or cloth is valuable for beating

out flames wherever they are, or if the fire is

on the ground water may be pom-ed over it. A

syphon of soda-water is also a good fii'e-extin-

guisher, and in the case of sudden fire, Jire

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

grenades are excellent, and no large household

should be without them. All that is necessary

is to break the glass globe and sprinkle the con-

tents over the burning place.

Burning oil, as in the C£ise of a lamp being

overturned, should be extinguished by tlirowing

sand, earth, or ashes over it. Water would only

help to spread the flames.

If a person's clothing should catch fire the

wearer ought to at once tlirow herself down on

the floor and roll over and over, first wrapping

herself in a rug or any other heav-y woollen

article if anything of the kind is handy. If,

when the accident occurs, another person is

present, the latter should endeavour to ex-

tinguish the flames by covering the victim with

any hea%'y wooUen articles in reach, pressing

them well over her and forcing her to maintain

a recumbent position. Heavy table-clotlis are

amongst the best things to smother the flames.

It is a fatal thing for the burning person to rush

out and call for help : as long as the upright

position is retained the flames will spread, and it

is always the face and upper parts which will be

the most severely attacked.

In all cases of fire the doors and windows

should be kept closed as much as possible, as any

draught only helps to fan the flames ; smoke

follows the current of air, and flames follow the

smoke.

If the fire is of a more serious nature, the alarm

should be given at once and the fire-engines sent

for. Every effort must be made to escape and

to help others to escape by the first means of

egress. If aroused at night to find the house on

fiire, wrap yourself in a blanket or rug and get

out of the room at once. If the room is full of

smoke tie a wot towel or handkerchief or even a

wet stocking over the nose and mouth, and this

will exclude the smoke and still permit of breath-

ing. If the smoke is so dense that you are

unable to stand upright, crawl along on the hands

and knees, as the clearest air is always next the

floor.

Should the ascent and descent of the stairs be

impossible, try to make your way to the window

of a front room and if there are others in the

house try to get them to do Ukewise. Unless

some one is in the burning room the door should

not be opened, and no attempt must be made to

extinguish the fire until life has been saved.

On no account should you throw yourself

from the window, and if in extremity and

no assistance is at hand tear up the sheets

and tie the pieces together to form a rope,

allowing good ends so that the knots will not

slip. Fasten one end to a bedstead or other

heavy piece of furniture near the window. Then

slip the improvised rope out of the window and

let yourself down hand under hand, taking

advantage of the knots to keep yourself from

slipping too quickly.

Those who are helpless to let themselves down

should have the end of the sheet tied round

their waist and be lowered through the window.

A mattress should if possible be thrown out of

the window, as this might be the means of

softening a fall if the sheet should happen to be

too short.

The most important thing in all cases of fire

is not to lose one's presence of mind and not to

waste a moment in taking action.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

This article deals with all that a housewife should know in regard to the management of the

culinary department of her household. Useful hints are given as to the suitable ftirnishing and

efficient cleaning of the kitchen premises, care of the kitchen range, and cooking by gas, electricity,

and on oil-stoves. Each aspect of the commissariat department has also been considered, including

such iniportant questions as the marketing and storing of provisions. The article concludes with

a complete calendar of meat, fish, poultry, game, fruit and vegetables in season, which has been

compiled for the purposes of easy reference.

HOW TO FURNISH A KITCHEN AND

1 SCULLERY

The furnishings and fittings of the kitchen

premises are very important - so much of the

comfort of the household depends upon this de-

partment and the way in which it is managed

that it is well worth while to fit it up comfort-

ably and suitably. When we consider that ser-

vants not only have to live in a kitchen as we

live in our dining-room and drawing-room, but

that their weekly " afternoons " or " evenings

out " constitute the only change they have from

their surroundings, we ought to try to give the

room in which they spend so much of their

time as homeUke an appearance as possible.

It often happens, however, that people who

are most particular about having the other

rooms of their house dainty and comfortable

grudge the bare necessaries when anything in

connection with the kitchen is concerned.

The kitchen itself should be bright, airy,

and roomy. Unfortunately, it is not always

possible to have all these conditions fulfilled,

especially where there are underground premises

and an area, and the kitchen -window looks

out on to a stone wall, but in such cases

the best must be made of a bad job and

a few additional inside comforts must make

up for the want of outside dew. Sometimes

the hght in premises of this kind may be in-

creased by having the oatside wall painted

white or a light cream colour.

The ventilation must be good, and in addition

to the doors and windows it is well to have a

ventilator placed in the wall above the height

of the window to allow the fumes of cooking to

escape.

The sanitary arrangements should also be

carefully attended to, and there must be a good

supply of water.

The kitchen ought to be within easy reach

of the dining-room, and yet so placed that the

odours of cooking do not reach other parts of

the house. The larder and storeroom should

also be close at hand to avoid any vmnecessary

going backwards and forwards from one place

to the other.

Walls and Ceilings. - The ceiling of the kitchen

ought to be smoothly plastered and then white-

washed. This whitewash must be renewed

every year, not only for cleanliness, but also to

give more light. For the waUs glazed tiles are

the ideal covering, as they can so easily be

washed, or a high-tiled dado with distemper or

other suitable finish above. But both these

methods of wall -covering prove somewhat ex-

pensive, and people of moderate means have

to content themselves with sometliing a Httle

cheaper. The walls may be washed all over

with a simple distemper, and as this process

costs very Uttle the distemper may be renewed

whenever it becomes dirty. Pretty Hght

colours, such as buff, pink, pale blue, or pale

green are the most effective. Varnished paper

makes another appropriate covering ; it leists

well, looks bright, and can very easily be cleaned ;

or, again, the Sanitary or so-called Washable

paper might be used - this is less expensive than

varnished paper, but it will not last so well nor

stand so much cleaning. Specially prepared

paints, such as Ripohn, Sanalene, and Muraline

are also to be recommended ; they are to be had

in a variety of shades, and make a kitchen look

very pretty. Tlie woodwork in the kitchen

should either be painted the same colour as

the walls in a darker shade, or with wliite paint

or a light oak stain.

The Floor. - Tlie flooring of a kitchen varies

very much according to locality. In some

parts of the country we find red flags, in others

glazed tiles, in others red or yeUow bricks, con-

crete, or wooden boards, &c. Wlien the floor

consists of flags, tiles, or bricks it does not, "is

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

a rule, require fxirther covering, eis it can be

easily washed, and one or two rugs or mats for

standing on 6ire all that is necessary. But when

there is a wooden floor it is important to cover

it with some material that is easily washed, as

boards soon become soiled and are very difficult

to keep in order. Good linoleum is the best

kitchen floor -covering, and one with a pattern

is to be preferred to a perfectly plain one, as

it does not show meirks so quickly. Inlaid

linoleum is the best, as its pattern is ingrained

in the material, and although the initial outlay

is greater it comes cheaper in the end, as it is

so much more durable than the other makes.

(See also p. 21.)

Fixtures. - The number of immovable fixtures

in a kitchen varies considerably with the style

of the house - they usually comprise a dresser,

shelves, cupboards, a pulley for hanging up

towels, &c., a roller for towel, gas or electric

fittings, bells, sink and kitchen range or stove.

The dresser is really the kitchen sideboard,

and as a rule it is fitted against one of the walls

and belongs to the house. If it has to be made

to order, take careful

measurements of the

wall space you can allow

and have it made to fit.

The upper part is usually

made with grooved

shelves, on which the

plates and dishes of the

dinner-service are kept,

or it may be fitted with

shelves for jars with

hooks along the edge of

the shelf on which to

hang small utensils. The

top part of the dresser

gives room for soup-

tiu-een, vegetable dishes,

sauce-boats, knife-tray,

weights and scales, &c.

- beneath there should be two or three drawers

for holding spoons, knives, &c., and kitchen

towels, while the lower part is fitted up with

cupboards for holding dishes and the larger

cookery utensils. If the kitchen is small, make

the most of it by using the walls. It is a good

plan to have a shelf carried roimd all the

available wall space, and just as high as a

servant can reach. When a number of hooks

Kre required a strip of wood might be fixed

below the shelf, and nails or hooks put into that.

It is a bad practice to drive nails into the

wall itself, as they are sure to come out and

bring some of the plaster with them.

Then there should be a well-constructed sink.

Stone-ware or tiled sinks are the best, as they

are the easiest to clean and keep in good order.

The back of the sink should be made of some

material which will not spoil with the splashing

of the water; if not already fitted with tiles.

Kitchen Dresser.

a sheet of zinc might be fitted up or a sheet of

" Emdeca," wliich is an imitation of tiles and

very practical. (See p. 14.) Above the sink

should be a plate-rack in which plates can be

drained, and the necessity of drying thus avoided.

Underneath might be one or two shelves or a

Plate-Eack.

small cupboard for keeping cleaning requisites

- and at the right-hand side of the sink a

sloping grooved board on which to lay dishes.

Sec, to drain. A flap table might also be

arranged at the side on which to place dishes

when they are dried if table space is scanty.

If there is a separate scullery this would

naturally contain the sink, &c., and here all

the washing up would be done. Tlio walls of

the scullery should be lined with shelves,

and as much as possible made of the available

space. Tlie shelves on wliich saucepans are

placed shoTjld be sparred, as this allows the air

to get inside to dry them. If there is not much

room for sheKdng, a saucepan-stand which can

be placed either in kitchen or scullery is often

found most valuable. A small cupboard or

shelves underneath the sink

wiU be found useful for keep-

ing cleaning materials. Tlie

scullery, like the kitchen,

should be light and well

ventilated, and unless the

floor is tiled or flagged it

should be covered in the

same way.

Cupboard accommodation

is also most valuable in a

kitchen. If this is inade-

quate, it is sometimes pos-

sible to have a cupboard

fitted up on the wall for

holding a small store of

provisions. A recess or a

corner can also be utilised Saucepan-Stand.

for this purpose, and a joiner

will be able to fit up a few shelves with a

simple door at a very small cost.

Every kitchen should be supplied with a

pulley on which to dry kitchen towels (unless

those can be hung elsewhere) and also a roller

with brackets on which to hang a roller-towel.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

The lighting of the kitchen is another im-

portant point, and the light, whether it be gas

or electricity, should be so arranged as to make

it possible to see clearly both at the table and

at the stove.

The Kitcheu Range. - The most important

fixture of all is the kitchen range. It is impos-

sible to do good cooking vfithout a good stove.

The open grate limits one's sphere of work con-

siderably, and there is always the risk of getting

food smoky and saucepans dirty. It is certainly

best for roasting (a roast never tastes so well

as when cooked in front of an open fire), also

for broiling and grilUng, but with these its

merits end. An open range is scarcely to be

seen now in modern houses, the kitchener or close

range has taken its place.

There is an endless variety of kitcheners, all

more or less similar but going under different

names. A tenant has not usually a choice in

this matter, but before taking a house it should

always be seen that a proper stove has been

provided and that it is in good working order.

In choosing or bujdng a stove, do not look

out for the cheapest kind procurable, but buy

one of a thoroughly good make, and have it

well fitted up. The material must be good.

Cheap stoves are usually made of some Hght

metal which wears out very quickly, causing

great waste of fuel and much annoyance as

well, while a weU-constructed one will be made

of malleable iron, wrought iron or steel.

A good stove should be provided with an

adjustable bottom, which can be raised or

lowered according to the size of fire required.

Thus, when the stove is not being used for

cooking purpose? the fire may still be kept in

and the water wai'ineo, but with a very small

consumption of fuel. There should also be a

well-ventilated oven, a good boiler and water-

supply, and a plate-rack on wliich to warm

dishes.

The best type of stove is usually convertible

into an open range, and a cheerful fire can be

arranged in the evening by simply sliding back

the top plate, .i.

It is a good plan to have a light screen made

which can be hooked on to the front of the fire,

as this serves as a great protection when any one

has to stand near the stove to stir a sauce or

do other cooking.

Very often the reason why a kitchen range

does not burn well is that it is not understood.

It is important, therefore, that both mistress

and servant should thoroughly understand the

working of it, and also the method of cleaning

before the stove is condemned as being in-

efSciont. For cleaning, see p. 91.

Furniture. - For the ordinary kitchen there is

very Uttle movable fiu-niture required. Tlie

table is the chief article, and this ought to bo

as large as is convenient. If there is not much

floor space available it is better to have it

made with flaps, wliich can easily be put down

when not in use. It ouglit to bo made of plain

unpainted deal, and should be of a convenient

height to work at and very steady on its legs.

Ivitchen tables are generally made oblong with

one or two drawers at the ends, which are

always an advantage. Sometimes too a narrow

shelf is put underneath on which articles can

be placed when cooking is being done, thus

keeping the table itself more clear.

In larger kitchens a second table wiU always

be found useful - a smaller and hghter one wliich

can be moved about, or even a collapsible one

wluch can be put aside when necessary.

A fender may also be required and a simple

curb is all that is necessary, although one made

of steel will of course bo more ornamental. In

very small kitchens the fender might be dis-

pensed with altogether, and a hght

screen hooked on to the front of the

fire to prevent the cinders faUing out

will take up much loss space. A

strong poker, coal shovel and scuttle

should also be provided. The best

shape of scuttle is that known as a Coal-Hod.

coal-hod ; it takes up little room,

and is not easily knocked over like the scoop

shape. The flue-rake and flue-brush are gener-

ally supphod as part of the stove.

The chairs should be of plain varnished wood,

and the nimiber wiU depend upon how many

maids there are - ^there should be one for each and

one over. Tlian if the Idtchen is used as the

maid's sitting-room, there ought to be one or two

comfortable chairs for resting in the evening.

Strong wicker ones or the hght-coloured Windsor

ai'm-chairs are both suit-

able- or even camp-chairs

■with a strong carpet cover

might be used, as they can

be folded up during the day

and put out of the way.

In any ca;Se it should be

remembered that our maids

require something a little

better than a straight-

backed wooden seat when

their day's work is over.

One or two strong rugs

should also be supplied -

sometliing of a nice bright colovu*. Pieces of

stout carpet neatly bound at the edges will

serve the purpose very well. A rule should

be made that these rugs are rolled up at night

and not put down again until the prmcipal

work in the kitchen is finished the following

day.

A dark serge cloth might also be supplied

to cover one of the tables and give it a less

forbidding appearance.

The arrangement of the window depends

very much upon the style of the house. As a

rule, a short muslin curtain across the Mrindow

Windsor Chair.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

is all that is necessary and all there is room for.

Madras or strong washing muslin is tho best

to use for the purpose, or, if preferred, a light

casement cloth ; but it must be of a material

that will wash well and not lose its colour in the

tub. The curtain should be simply made with

a hem top and bottom. If tho window is wide

it may be better made in two parts with a

division in tlie middle, but, if narrow, it will

look better in one piece. The curtain should be

half as wide again as the width of the window

to allow for fulness. A hght brass rod should

be fitted across the window at a convenient

height and the curtain fixed to that either by

means of small rings or by slipping the rod

through the upper hem of the curtain. If the

kitchen is large and the window wide, short side-

curtains, of some pretty cretonne, linen, or

casement cloth might add very much to the

comfortable appearance of the room. These

are easily washed, and, provided they arc

not made too long, they will not be found an

inconvenience. A simple brass or bamboo rod

should be fixed across the window and the

curteiins attached to that by means of rings sewn

on to the upper hem or heading. By this

means the curtains can easily be slipped off

when they require wasliing.

A good clock must not be forgotten when

furnishing the kitchen - either one to hang on

the wall above the kitchen mantelpiece or a

small aliirm clock, wliich can easily be caxried

about or taken to the maid's bedroom at

night.

Utensils. - The number and kind of utensils

must be determined somewhat by the size and

circumstances of the household.

Unless there is a kitchen-maid it is a mistake

to buy a largo quantity of utensils which require

polishing and keeping bright. In fact, it is

never wise to buy too many to begin with ; the

more you have the more there will be to keep

in order, and when means are limited and

service difficult to procure it is much wiser to

start with what is strictly necessary and add

by degrees to the supply.

In small houses and flats the kitchen utensils

must be reduced to a minimum. Shelf accom-

modation is scarce and there are few if any

cupboards ; large and heavy saucepans would

then be quite out of place and a multifarious

collection of moulds and dishes only in the way.

At the same time it is unreasonable to expect

dainty cooking to be done without implements,

and every facility should be given to those who

undertake the work.

It will generally be found that the better the

cook the fewer utensils she will require, but

still maids have difJerent ways of working, and

it is always wise to give them what they ask

for within reasonable limits.

And, again, when service is short an effort

should be made to give as many labour-saving

appliances as possible, such aa a knife -cleaner,

a mincing machine, a gas stove or gas ring, &c.

Whatever is bought should be good of its

kind. Buy plain and well-made articles and they

will l£ist a lifetime.

Saucepans. - Except for a large estabUshment

where cooking has to be done in big quantities

it is a mistake to invest in a number of heavy

iron saucepans. One or two will be quite

sufficient. The others might be made of steel,

copper, aluminium, enamelled tin, or fire-proof

w£ire.

Both steel and copper saucepans are excellent

and very durable, but they are expensive to buy,

and those made of copper are liable to verdigris

unless well looked after.

Tlie enamelled tin saucepans will be found

most useful, but they should be bought in a

good quality. The hard grey enamel lasts

better than the white, and will stand any

amount of hard wear. The cheap make of

this kind of saucepan should be avoided, as

the lining soon begins to crack and peal off

and then they become dangerous to use.

Aluminium saucepans are also to be recom-

mended, and they are rapidly supplanting all

others made of metal, as they are absolutely

safe from all fear of verdigris and they do not

rust. They are easily cleaned (see p. 93), and

nothing could be hghter to handle.

Then there are the clay terrines and brown

stoneware saucepans, so dear to the heart of

the French housevnfe, and which are coming

more and more into favour in this country

(see p. 148).

When once a trial has been made of the

lighter style of saucepan, there will seldom be

a return to the heavy iron make which are such

a labour to clean, not to speak of the lifting.

The following list of utensils with approxi-

mate prices may prove useful to those who are

starting housekeeping for the first time. It is

suitable for a small house with one or two

servants.

s. d.

1 Galvanised bath 2 2

1 Galvanised pail 10

I Tin enamelled basin 10

1 Fish-kettle 3 3

1 Frying-pan 10

1 Iron stewpan 2 0

1 Iron saucepan 19

2 Enamelled saucepans. Is. 3d., Is. 9d. . 3 0

or 2 Earthenware saucepans .... 2 0

or 2 Aluminium saucepans 3 6

1 Iron kettle 3 6

1 Tin kettle 16

1 Wire sieve 12

1 Cooking board 2 3

1 Pot-rest 3

1 Rolling-pin 6

1 Flour dredger 6

1 Sugar dredger 6

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

8. d.

1 Funnel 3

1 Cork-screw G

1 pair of scissors 10

1 Tin-opener 4

2 Oven tins 14

1 Cake tin 8

1 Tray 2 0

1 Sink tidy frorn 6J

1 Gridiron or hanging grill 1 4|

1 Steamer 6 0

1 Set of skewers 6

1 Grater 7

1 Poker 9

1 Egg whisk 6

1 Soap dish 4

1 Jelly mould 10

1 dozen patty pans 4

1 Palette knife 10

1 Cook's knife 13

2 Table knives and forks 1 10

1 Potato knife 4^

2 Iron spoons 6

2 Wooden spoons 5

2 Dessert spoons 8

2 Tea spoons 4

1 Toasting fork 4^

1 Gravy strainer 10

1 Knife-board 10

1 Pepper and salt box 9

1 Shovel 6

1 Coal-scuttle 1 11

1 Roasting tin and stand 16

1 Long broom 16

1 Yard broom 14

1 Set shoe brushes 2 9

1 Set stove brushes 2 9

1 Sweep's brush 9

2 Scrubbing brushes 16

1 Nail brush 2

2 Egg-brushes 3

1 Sink brush 6

1 Dish mop 4i

3 Jugs 1 O'

2 Pie dishes 16

2 Pudding bowls 12

1 Large mixing bowl 10

2 Breakfast cups and saucers .... 11

0 Plates assorted 16

3 Dishes 2 9

1 Sugar-basin 4

1 Salt-cellar 3

1 Lemon squeezer 4|

Jars and tins will also be required for kitchen

use, but it is seldom necessary to buy these.

The following might be added if means allow -

6. d.

1 Mincing machine 4 8

1 Spring balance 5 0

1 Meat-saw 2 6

1 Knife-sharpener 10

1 Box-cutter 10

8. d.

6 Small moulds 10

1 Frying basket 16

1 Set of steps 5 0

1 Omelet pan 16

2 Sandwich cake tins 10

1 Preserving pan 4 0

2 Fancy moulds 3 0

1 Pestle and mortar 3 0

1 Fish slice 8

1 Vegetable presser 16

1 Flour tub or crock 2 6

The above does not include utensils for

laimdry work. See under special heading.

If the housemaids' utensils are not separate,

the following brushes, &c., will be required iii

addition for household use : -

8. d.

1 Plate brush 9

1 Carpet whisk 2 6

1 Double banister bnosh 2 9

1 Dust pan 10

Note. - If there are several servants they

should be allowed inexpensive crockery and

glass for their own table use apart from the

dishes used for cooking.

The Cleaning of the Kitchen and Kitchen

Utensils. - The kitchen may be cleaned either

all in one day or by degrees. The latter method

is generally found the most convenient, as it is

less obtrusive and does not upset the comfort

of the house so much. The saucepans and tins

may be cleaned one day, cupboards and windows

another, larder, passages, and outside premises

another, flues and range another, with the

scrubbing of the floors and tables, &c., to follow.

This is entirely a matter of arrangement

and must be planned to suit the ways and cir-

cumstances of each individual household.

An effort shoiild be made to have the cleaning

done early in the day or at a time when there is

no special cooking to attend to.

Instructions for the various cleaning opera-

tions will be found below. (See also Duties of

the Cook, p. 49.)

How to Clean a Kitchen Range - Weekly

Cleaning. - A large strong apron, or overall, a

pair of gloves, and a cap which covers the heiir

should be worn when doing this piece of work.

The kitchen, too, should be prepared by remo%-ing

or covering with a dust-sheet or sheets of

paper anything that is likely to be soiled with

dust. Remove any kettles and saucepans from

the top of the range and put the fender, plate-

rack, and fire-irons to one side. Put down a

hearth cloth and have sweep's brush, flue rake

and brush, shovel and black-lead brushes in

readiness. Commence by raking out the fire,

and be particular to pass the rake well to the

back to get all the cinders out of the boiler

flue. Brush out oil cinders and ashes and

save the former for making the fire later on.

THE wo:man's book

To clean the flues commence at the top.

Open the dampers and the httle doors or slides

at the entrance to the flue or flues. Pass the

flue brush up as far as it will go, then to the sides

and tlien downwards, working it well against

the side of the flue. The loose soot will all fall

downwards to the back of the stove and will be

removed later on. In a large stove there may

be two or even three flues and each one must

bo done in the same way. Brush the top of

the dampers and brush the flue doors or slides

and put them back in place.

Now remove all rings and tops from the

top of the stove and brush all the soot oflE

the top of the oven with the sweep's brush,

letting it fall either down the side of the oven

or into the fire-place - the former is the simpler.

Also pass the flue brush down the sides and back

of the oven if there is an opening. Brush the

under -side of all the top pieces and put them

back in place. If there is a boiler or second

oven at the other side of the range the top and

sides of this must be cleaned in the same way.

Every part must be freed from soot, and always

work from the top downwards.

\Vhen the top part is finished remove the httle

door or shde wlaich will be found underneath

the oven, put a good-sized shovel below it, pass

the flue rake in at the hole and draw out all the

soot. Repeat the same at the other side if

necessary. The soot must be taken outside at

once, and if there is a garden it should be kept

for manuring purposes.

Next dust the stove all over, and if the top is

greasy wash it with hot water and soda. Thor-

oughly dust or brush out the oven. If the

shelves £ire greasy wash them out with hot water

and soda, then whiten thfem with a paste of

whitening and water, which will give them a

nice clean appearance.

To Black-lead the Stove. - Apply the black-

lead very lightly with the black-lead brush, com-

mencing with the highest part of the stove and

doing a small piece at a time. Brush ofi with

the hard briish and polish with the polisher

(see p. 65).

If there are tiles at the back of the stove

these must be washed over with a soft cloth,

soap, and water, or, if stained, with Brook's soap

or sapolio.

Clean all steel parts with fine emery paper or

with fine bath-brick dust made into a paste with

paraflin (see p. 72).

Lay the fire, using the cinders along with some

small coal, sticks, and paper.

Sweep the hearth, wash it over with warm

water, and whiten with soft sandstone. Put

back the fender, fire-irons, &c., and put a light

to the fire if required.

Dally Cleaning. - The fire should be well raked

out every day, the top of the stove brushed with

the sweep's brush and polished with the stove

bnishes. Black-leading should not be required

more than once a week, except perhaps on the

special parts which tire much used.

Rub up the steel parts with emery paper, or

wipe them with a soft duster or selvyt cloth,

and clean the hearth.

If properly done, the flues should not require

cleaning more than once a week, but if a largo

fire is kept constantly bui'ning it may be neces-

sary to brush over the top of the oven more

frequently - sometimes, too, in the case of small

stoves the flues require cleaning more than once

a week. This must bo regulated according to

how the stove burns.

Cleaning Saucepans. - Clean saucepans form

one of the first essentials of good cooking. " You

can judge a workman by liis tools " cannot be

better appUed than to a cook, as no woman

who has any pride in her profession would put

up with such a thing as a dirty saucepan. They

ought to be her special pride and care.

Now that saucepans are used almost entirely

on gas-stoves and close ranges whore there is

no smoking from an open fire, there is no excuse

for having tho outside coated with soot or black

grease which comes off on everything that

touches it. The handle and outside of the

saucepan should receive the same attention as

the inside.

As soon as a saucepan is finished with, it

should be filled with warm water and left soaking

until it can be cleaned.

Care must be taken not to pour cold water

into a hot enamelled saucepan or there will be

danger of cracking the hning ; in fact it is

always a risky thing to do if the pan is very hot.

Saucepans should be cleaned as soon as possible

after they are taken from the fire and never

allowed to remain dirty overnight except under

very special circumstances.

The method of cleaning will depend somewhat

upon the Idnd of saucepan, but the rule that they

must be properly clean and fi'ee from taint of

any kind apphos to all.

If the contents of a saucepan have become

burnt boil some hot water and soda in it before

attempting to do the cleaning.

No saucepan must be laid away before it is

perfectly dry unless it is placed wliere the air

can reach the inside, tis on a sparred shelf.

Iron Saucepans. - Wash them well in hot

water and soda, scrubbing inside and out with

a pot brush. Use a little sand, if necessary,

to make them clean. Tlie sand must be used

almost dry or it will not have so much power.

When clean, rinse thoroughly so as to get rid

of any grit and dry with a coarse cloth.

Enamelled Saucepans. - Wash well in hot

water and soda, and then apply a little Brook's

soap or sapolio to take off any marks or dis-

coloration. Salt or fine silver sand may also

be used, or even crushed egg-shells ai'o very

good for whitening the enamel. Rinse thor-

oughly and dry with a cloth.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

Tin and Steel Saucepans. - Clean in the same

way as enamelled saucepans.

Earthenware Saucepans. - Wash first in hot

soapy water, then apply a little fine sand or

sapolio, if necessary, to remove any marks.

Rinse thoroughly and dry with a stout cloth.

Copper Saucepans. - These require very special

care, as, if once neglected, they are apt to har-

bour verdigris, wliich is very poisonous. For this

reason the tinned linings should always be kept

intact, and directly there are signs of wear and

the copper begins to show through the saucepans

should be sent away to be re -tinned.

Clean the inside of copper saucepans with a

mixture of soft soap and Brook's soap or soft

soap and fine silver sand apphed with a piece of

flannel or soft cloth wrung out of warm water.

For the outside use the skin of a lemon dipped

in bath-brick dust, or salt and vinegar applied

with a flannel. Well rinse the saucepan with

hot water and dry quickly and thoroughly.

The outside may be further polished by rubbing

it up with a little dry whitening.

Aluminium Saucepans. - Wash well with hot

soapy water, using a little silver sand if necessary

to remove any discoloration or burnt matter.

Rinse thoroughly first in hot and then in cold

water and then dry with a soft cloth. Soda

must on no account be used with aliiminium

ware, and patent cleaning mixtures should also

be avoided. The outside may be polished

occasionally with metal polish.

The vessels should not be scraped, nor

should the liglit brown enamel which will form

inside be disturbed, as it is not only quite

harmless, but adds considerably to tho life of

the articles.

Wooden Articles. - An effort should be made

to make kitchen tables, boards, and wooden

utensils as white as possible. The following

will be required for cleaning them : a pail or

basin of warm water, a piece of house flannel,

scrubbing brush, sand, soap, and a stout cloth

for drying. Wash the wood over with the

flannel wrung out of warm water. Rub a little

soap on the brush, dip in sand and scrub with

the grain of the wood. Rinse weU in order to

remove all grit and dry quickly with a clean

cloth. Soda should not be used, as it tends to

discolour the wood. Sand helps to whiten it.

^Vlien cleaning a kitchen-table the legs should

not be forgotten. If plain wood they may be

scrubbed in the same way as the top, but if

painted they must only be wiped over with a

damp flannel and di-ied.

Wooden utensils must not be put too near a

fire to dry or they will warp ; they ought to be

placed upright where the air will get round

them.

Sieves. - A sieve should be cleaned as soon as

possible after it has been used. If any substance

is allowed to harden on it the cleaning will be

much more diflficult. Wash thoroughly with a

little hot water and soda and scrub well with a

bnish. If it is a wire sieve hold it up to the

light and see that none of the Httle holes are

blocked up. Be particular also to scrub well

round the sides where the rim joins the surface

part. Rinse well and dry with a strong cloth.

The sieve should then be put in a warm place

to dry. If this is not attended to a wire sieve

will become rusty and a hair one coated with

mildew.

Sieves mxist always be kept in a dry and clean

place.

Tin Lids, Moulds, and Dish Covers. - Hot water

with a little soap powder or plain soap should

be used for wasliing these. They must be well

rinsed and then dried at once.

Saucepan lids should be washed or at least

well wiped with a cloth each time after use.

The rim must have special attention, as any

grease from a stew or such-hke wiU lodge there.

It is a good plan to give all saucepan lids a good

washing once a week.

A brvish may be used when washing fancy

moixlds of any kind. When the insides become

difficult to clean the moulds should be put into

a saucepan with hot water and a little soda, and

boiled for half-an-hour. This will loosen any

matter or burnt pieces which may adhere to

them. They may also be secured with a little

silver sand, or Brook's soap may be used to

remove any discoloration. Thorough rinsing

wiU be necessary.

All tinned goods must be well dried before

being put away, as they are liable to rust.

Polishing. - Tins that are put up for show may

be polished to make them look bright, but this

should never be attempted before making sure

that they are quite free from grease. IMake a

smooth pastљ with a Httle whitening and water

- rub this on the tins with a piece of flannel, and,

when dry, rub off with a duster. A soft brush

may be used to remove the whitening from any

corners. The inside of moulds should never

be polished.

A few drops of ammonia may be added to the

whitening, but as the tinning of some moulds and

lids is very tliin, strong cleansers should as a rule

be avoided.

Zinc. - Sometimes the surround of a sink is

covered with zinc, and tliis may be cleaned in

the following way : Scrub first with hot soapy

water to which a little soda has been added.

Rinse and dry. The zinc may then be polished

with a little whitening mixed to a paste with

turpentine. Apply with a piece of flannel,

and when dry rub off with a duster.

To Clean Floors, Linoleum, &c. - See " Work

of the House," p. 66.

Baking Tins. - Wash well in very hot water

with a little soda in it, using a strong brush and

a little sand if necessary. Rinse well and dry

with a coarse cloth. If a roasting-tin has

become very brown and is hard to clean, let it

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

soak in hot water and soda for an hour or two

to soften the burnt substance.

Kitchen Knives and Forks. - Wipe these with

a cloth wrung out of liot water to remove any

grease, but do not allow them to lie in hot water,

wliich would tend to loosen the handles. Then

rub off any stains with a little Brook's soap or

sapoho applied rather dry on a piece of flannel.

Rinse off and dry with a knife-cloth. It is not

necessary to polish kitchen knives on a knife-

board ; it only wears them vmnecessarily.

Kitchen Cloths. - At the end of the day all

cloths which have been used and are soiled

should be washed in soapy water with a little

soda ; then thoroughly rinsed, wrung out, and

hung up to drj'. At the end of the week they

ought to be laid aside in order to have a more

thorough washing with the rest of the household

linen (see p. 276), and a fresh supply put into

use.

Pudding Cloths. - After a pudding cloth has

been used it should be tlirown into hot water

with a little soda and allowed to soak for half-

an-hour or so. Then wash out and rinse with

care until no trace of the soda water remains.

Dry in the open air if possible. Fold up care-

fully and keep in a clean place. A pudding

cloth must only be used for its own special

purpose. If the above process is not sufficient

to make the cloth clean it ought to be boiled

in a saucepan for half-an-hoirr with hot water

and a small piece of soda and then rinsed in the

same way. The use of soap and soap powder

should bo avoided as far as possible.

Jelly Cloths. - Wash in the same way as

pudding cloths.

Care of the Sink. - This is a very important

matter in the management of the kitchen and

scullery, and a sink left in a dirty and greasy

state, especially the last thing at night, will at

once denote a careless and untidy worker.

Every sink should be provided with a sink

basket or tidy and a sink brush. The former is

Sink Bafiket.

xised to place over the opening to keep back any

tea-leaves, vegetable parings, or other refuse

which might block the pipe. An old colander

will servo the purpose very well.

Do not throw anything but water down a sink,

anf' if the water is greasy flush it well afterwards

with hot soapy water. It is a good plan also to

pour down some very hot soda and water when

the washing up is finished.

If water in which vegetables have been cooked

is not kept for making soup, it should never be

poured down a sink, as it would cause an un-

pleasant smell, but should bo emptied straight

into a drain or outside in the garden.

An effort should be made to keep the pipe and

trap (an elbow -like bend in the pipe just below

Sink Brush.

the sink) in good order by preventing grease and

refuse collecting in them. If tliese become

choked and clogged an unnecessary expense

must be incurred to have them cleared out, not

to speak of the annoyance. Do not be afraid

of plenty of hot water when washing up ; it is

greasy luke-warm water which clogs the pipe

sooner than anything.

WTien the washing up is finished the sink

should be well scrubbed out with some hot

water and soda and a little soap, rinsed with hot

water, and then finally the cold pipe should be

allowed to run. If the sink is discoloured, use

a Uttle sand or Brook's soap. The sink brush

and any dish clothes must also be washed out

and hung up to dry. Also any tub or basin that

has been used for weishing up.

Refuse. - In every household there must

necessarily be a certain amount of rubbish to

dispose of consisting of ashes, sweepings from

floors, broken crockery, old tins, food remains,

&c.

Part of this refuse should be put into a dust-

bin or ash-pit, with either of which every house

should be provided, while the remainder should

be burnt.

The ash-pit is more frequently found in country

districts where the removal of rubbish cannot be

so frequent as in towns. It is usually built of

brick or stone and should be well cemented and

placed at some distance from the house.

The best kind of dust-bin is one made of

galvanised iron and round in shape. The size

wiU depend upon the needs of the hou&ohold,

but it is better to have two, if necessary, of a

medium size than one that is too heavj' to be

lifted. Those dust-bins are very often provided

by the landlord and belong to tlie house.

There should always be a hd to fit the dust-

bin to prevent damp from entering or dust from

flying about. It should be placed at least a

few feet from the house and never near a win-

dow, and it must be removed and thoroughly

emptied by the dustman twice or at least once

a week.

Nothing but dry refuse should be put into a

dust-bin unless it can be emptied very frequently,

as damp favours decomposition and very soon

causes an unpleasant and very unhealthy smell.

Animal and vegetable refuse in this case is better

burnt, and if there is a kitchen range in use it

FOOD AND THE KITCHEX

should not be a difficult matter to dispose of all

vegetable payings, tea-leaves, and such -like by

this means.

There are two ways of burning food remains.

They may either be dried slowly at the back of

the fire or underneath the grate, after which

they will burn quite readilj% or they may be

put into the stove in small quantities when the

fire is very bright and hot enough to consume

them quickly. If refuse is put on to a low fire

in a damp condition it will cause a most un-

pleasant smell.

Needless to say, it is the duty of the mistress

to see that nothing is thrown out or burnt

except that which is absolutely of no value.

In some houses the dust-bin is one of the most

fruitful soiu-ces of waste. (See Law in regard to

Removal of Refuse, p. 382.)

COOKING BT GAS

Gas Stoves. - There is much to be said in favour

of a gas stove, and if properly managed it can

be a great saving of time, labour, and expense.

It can either be used to supplement a kitchen

range where there is a large amount of cooking

to be done, or in small houses it can be made to

take the place of a coal stove altogether.

It is especially useful in flats where ladies

very often have to do all their own work or the

Breakfast Cooker.

greater part of it themselves, and where actual

labour mtist be reduced to a minimum.

If the whole stove is not required and the

oven part would be of Uttle or no use, a small

griller or even a gas ring is often a great com-

fort and saving. It can be placed on the top

Gas Boiling Ring.

of the range or on a small table in the scullery,

and will often save the keeping up of a fire for

the sake of boiling a kettle or doing some light

cooking in the evening. A httle griller would

also be found a great boon in the morning when

an early breakfast has to be prepared, as it will

not only boil a kettle but make toast or grill

fish or bacon at the same time. A very nice

griller and boiler can be bought for 7s. 6d. or

8s. 6d., wlxile a small boiling ring will only

cost two or three shillings plus the india-rubber

tubing (6d. to 9d. per foot) required for attaching

it to a gas bracket.

Gas stoves can be had in different sizes and

various makes. Improvements are constantly

being made, and there is great competition

among the different makers as to who will pro-

duce the most perfect article. Before bujdng

one it is a good plan to go to one of the Gas

Company's offices or exhibitions where all

the different kinds of stoves are displayed, and

where they can often be seen in actual use.

The newest make of gas cookers is well raised

above the floor, which saves a great deal of un-

necessary stooping, and also does away with the

necessity of having a slab on which to place the

stove for the sake of protection. Those with

enamelled Hnings are the most easily kept in

order. The size chosen must depend upon the

amount of cooking to be done and the oven

space required, and also upon the size of the

kitchen. It is a mistake to have one larger

than necessary, as it always means a greater

consumption of gas to heat the oven, &c.

Tlie price of gas stoves runs from about £4

to £12 according to size, while they can also be

hired at a rental of about 2s. 3d. per quarter

and upwards. In fact, in many cases it is

better to hire than to purchase, as the Gas Com-

pany not only supply the stove but keep it

in repair, and will change it when desired for one

of another description.

It is very important to have a gas stove

properly fitted up and to see that there is the

necessary ventilation. The work should be

put into the hands of a capable workman,

because tmless the pipe to which the stove is

connected is of the right size and there is suffi-

cient pressure of gas, the stove will not work

properly. It is sometimes a good plan to have

a separate meter for the gas stove in order to

regulate the consumption of gas.

How to Use a Gas Stove. - It is also very

important to know how to use a gas stove,

otherwise there may be great waste of gas and

many spoilt dishes.

Tlie Gas Companies give special demonstra-

tions all over the country where the working

of the various stoves is fully explained and a

cookery lesson given at the same time. Tliey

are also beginning to send out lady demonstrators

to private houses to show how each part of the

stove should be used in order to secm-e the best

possible results for the smallest consumption of

gas ; but the hints given below may be of use

to those who cannot avail themselves of these

special lessons.

Every gets stove is provided with several

biu-ners on the top and each btirner has a special

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tap in connection witli it. There will also be a

special tap for the oven.

A taper is preferable to matches for lighting

the gas.

Do not turn on more taps than are actually

required at one time, and be careful to tiu-n off

the gas directly you Imve finished using it.

V\lien about to uso the oven open the door

first, turn on the gas, and then apply the light.

Be sure that all the little burners inside are

lighted and on both sides. If they shoiild become

clogged with grease or other matter the little

holes must be cleared with a needle or fine wire.

Never keep the gas burning longer than is neces-

sary- for instance, when once the contents of a

kettle or saucepan have come to the boil the

merest flicker of light will keep them simmering.

The large round burner should not be used

when the smaller one is sufficient. Then, again,

when the griller is being used a saucepan or

kettle of water should always be placed on the

top to utilise the top heat as well as that of

imderneath.

Gas maj' also be economised by using a steamer

or patent cooker (see p. 148) in which several

different articles can bo cooked one above the

other with only one jet of gas underneath. It

is also a waste of gas to use hea\'y saucepans,

as they require an unnecessary consumption of

gas to bring them to the boil. Steel, aluminium,

and enamelled saucepans are all suitable, also

the fireproof china and the glazed earthenware

ones. The saucepans must also be clean at

the foot ; if there is a coating of soot or black

grease it acts ais a non-conductor of heat, and

this again will cause a waste of gas. It is always

better, if possible, to keep a separate set of

saucepans for a gas stove and not to use them

indiscriminately for a gas cooker and a coal

stove.

Tlie flame of gas must not be allowed to blaze

up the sides of a saucepan, but only underneath.

When once the oven has been properly heated

the light should for most purposes be turned

down half way, and in some cases even lower.

Then the cooking should be so arranged that

when the oven is lighted it should be made use of

to the fullest extent, two or three dishes being

cooked in it at the same time. For instance,

if there is a small roast it may be cooked on a

roasting-tin on the bottom shelf, while such

things as a milk pudding, potato or macaroni

pie, baked potatoes, or stewed fruit might be

cooking above. Or, when pastry is being cooked,

cakes or scones might be cooked at the same

time. It would not, however, do to cook pastry

with a roast, as the air of the oven would be too

moist. It is a waste of gas to light the oven to

cook one dish.

To Grill. - A special prill pan is supplied with

every gas stove, and this can be used for many

purposes, such as for cooking a chop, steak,

kidneys, bacon, fish, or in fact anything that

could bo cooked on the ordinary grill. Very

good toast can also be made vmder the grill.

Place the grill pan under the griller, hght the

gas and wait until the griller is red hot before

putting the meat or whatever is being cooked

underneath. Then proceed eis for ordinary

griUing (see p. 107), turning the meat and reduc-

ing the heat as required.

To Make Toast. - The gas should bo turned

down after the griller is once hot. Tlie bread

must be watched very carefully and turned

when necessary. The toast must not be made

too quickly or it will be soft and heavy.

To Use the Oven. - A gas oven generally con-

tains two or three grid shelves and always one

solid shelf. The latter is used to throw down

the heat, and is placed above anything that

requires browning. Nothing should bo placed

on the soUd sheK or it will burn, with the excep-

tion of Uquid things or anything that can be

placed in a tin of water. The top of the oven

is always the coolest part. When dishes in

course of baking are becoming too brown before

being sufficiently cooked, the solid shelf should

be removed altogether.

It used to be thought necessary to place a tin

of water at the foot of the oven, but this is not

the CEise.

When roasting meat the joint should either

be hung on a hook attached to a bar which runs

across the top of the oven or put on a roasting-

tin placed on one of the grid shelves at the

lower part of the oven. If the former method

is adopted the shelves of the oven will require

to be removed and nothing else can be cooked

at the same time. The thickest part of the

joint must always be hung downwards. Heat the

oven well before putting the meat in, and after

the first ten minutes reduce the gas one-half or

even more according to the amount of pressure ;

follow in fact the general rules for roasting

(see p. 165).

When baking cakes the oven should first be

thoroughly heated and then the gas turned

down more or less according to the special kind

of cake, and whether it requires a moderate or

hot oven. Place the cake or cakes on the grid

shelf and below the browning shelf, and gradu-

ally reduce the heat until the cakes are ready.

If the cake is large it may be bettor to keep out

the solid shelf altogether and even to cover it

over with a double piece of kitchen paper to

prevent its taking too much colour. With

large cakes, too, it is a good plan to leave them

in the oven for about half-an-hour after the gas

has been turned off, and to let them dry slowly

in the gradually reducing heat. The same rules

will apply to the baking of pastry.

If a little care is taken and attention given

to details a gas oven is really very easy to

manage, and after a little practice one becomes

quite exi>ert at regulating the heat to a

nicety.

FOOD AN"D THE KITCHEN

How to Clean a Gas Stove - Weekly Cleaning. -

Put down a hearth-cloth and have in i-eadiness

a pail of hot water and soda, one or two strong

cloths or swabs, and black-lead brushes, &c.,

for cleaning purposes. Remove the bars from

the top of the stove and wash these in the pail

of hot water, using a brush if necessary. Wash

the top of the stove, being very careful to make

the burners clean ; sometimes it may be neces-

sary to clean out the httle holes with a piece

of wire or a fine skewer if they have become

clogged. Wash also the tray under the burners,

the oven shelves, the sides of the oven, which

are sometimes fitted with movable linings, and

the tin which stands at the foot. If there are

enamelled linings, as in some of the stoves, a

little salt or Brook's soap may be used for

cleaning purposes and also for the oven tin to

remove any brown marks or other discoloration.

Then black-lead the bars, the top and body of

the stove, and put back the different parts in

their proper places. Polish the brass taps with

metal polish, rub up the steel with fine emery

paper, and the stove is finished.

Daily Cleaning. - If the stove is thoroughly

cleaned once a week it will not require black-

leading the other days ; it will be sufficient to

give it a good brush over with the harder

polishing brush, to wash the tray underneath

the biu-ners, and the oven tin if the oven has

been used.

Neither grease nor any kind of food which

may have been spilled during cooking should

ever be allowed to remain on a gas stove, but

must be washed off at once with a cloth wrung

out of hot water and soda, otherwise an un-

pleasant smell will be caused the next time the

gas is used.

COOKING BY ELECTRICITY

Although we have long been accustomed to

electricity as a Hghting agent and even for

heating purposes, electric cooking stoves have

not yet become common. There are, however,

several different makes to be had, and the pi'ice

of some of them is by no means prohibitive.

One of the simplest and most economical

stoves on the market is the " Tricity " cooker ;

it is so simple, so easily regulated, so perfectly

controlled and so safe that it cannot fail to

appeal to those who try it. There are different

types of this stove - The Single Cooker, The

Duplex Cooker, and the Extension Cooker,

while the ovens are sold separately.

The Single Cooker can be used for grilling,

toasting, boiling, steaming, stewing, heating

irons, airing clothes, or as a radiator to warm a

room. The round plate on the top of the stove

is raised to a dull red or lesser heat controlled

by means of two switches, and any degree of

heat from " very hot " to " low simmering "

can be obtained.

Electric cturent is brought to the stove

through a flexible steel-covered cable which

ensures absolute safety. The cable is ten feet

in length and is attached to a wall -plug. The

"Tricity" Stove.

1. Single Boiler. 2. Oven. 3. Extension Boiler.

4. Grill Pan. 5. Toaster.

cooker can easily be moved when desired within

the range of the length of the cable, and, when

in use, should be placed upon a table or on a

wooden pedestal as shown in engraving. It

should be a convenient height for working at.

Special sets of cooking utensils are sold for

use with this cooker. They are qtiite simple, in

both metal and earthenware and without wires

of any kind, but one important point about

them is that each article is absolutely flat at the

base so as to obtain good contact with the hot-

plate and thus make the cooking more rapid and

economical.

The Duplex Cooker has two hot-plates, and its

uses are the same as those of the Single Cooker.

The Extension Cooker has also one hot-plate,

and is generally used in conjunction with one of

the other cookers or to give top heat to the oven.

It is also useful alone for boiling, stewing, and

similar simple operations.

Ovens too can be bought in two sizes, and are

heated by being placed on the top of a Single

or Duplex Cooker. Tlie larger size is quite

sufficient for the needs of the average household.

The following is the working cost of the

" Tricity Cooker " with electricity at a Id. a unit.

1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for 5 hours

at lowest heat.

1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for IJ hours

at greatest heat.

Full particulars regarding price, use, &c.,

can be obtained by writing to the makers, the

Berry Construction Co., Ltd., Chaxing Cross

House, London.

COOKING ON OIL STOVES

A small oil stove may sometimes be a con-

venience when neither gas nor electricity ia

within reach. In summer, when a big kitchen

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

fire is not required, a stovo of tlus description

will often perform all the cooking opcratioiis

necessary. Being independent of any fittings,

it can be moved about at will, and placed

wherever it is most convenient. Sometimes,

too, in country quarters where the kitchen

range is inadequate for the cooking required, an

oil stovo will bo found of valuable assistance,

and it can e^•en be used in an out-house if the

kitchen is small and inconvenient.

Tliey are to bo had in various sizes, ranging

from a small stove on which only one saucepan

or kettle can be placed, to a large family stove

with oven, boiler and accommodation for several

saucepans as well. It is important to buy a

stove of a thoroughly good make, and of late

years there have been so many improvements

made in their construction that they are more

easily regulated and there is less danger of their

smoking than formerly.

It is always well to see the stove at work

before buying it, and to obtain full instructions

as to its use, as with each special make there are

certain points which require explanation. One

of the greatest objections to oil stoves is their

smell, but tliis can be to a large extent, if not

altogether, avoided by proper management

and care.

To secure the best results, care must be taken

to keep the stove very clean and to use good oil.

The wicks, too, must fit properly and be kept free

from all charring. Tlie oil-receivers should be

well filled before using the stove, and the oil

must not bo allowed to biirn too low.

It is also important to stand the stove out of

a draught, and for this reason, as well as for the

sake of convenience, it is better to raise it above

the ground. It may be placed either on a simple

four-legged stand or if it is a portable stove it is

a good plan to have a box made which will serve

at the same time as packing-case and a stand

upon which to place it when in use. (For

Cleaning and Trimming, see p. 77.)

COAL AND OTHER FUEL

Arrangement of the Coal Cellar. - A good-sized

coal cellar is always an advantage in a house, as

there will then be room to store not only a

quantity but also at least two different kinds of

coal. The contents of the cellar should be so

arranged that each kind can easily be found,

and a supply of slack or coal dust should also be

kept in one corner.

\\Tien a fresh supply of coal is ordered it must

not be thrown in on the top of the old dust,

but this should first be scraped to one side and

used along with the larger pieces. If this is

onco buried there becomes an accumulation of

dust in the cellar which is never used up.

A strong coal shovel should be kept in the

cellar, also a hatchet for breaking the coal when

necessary. A large lump of coal should always

be broken on the gi'ound and not on the top of

other coal, which would in all probability pro-

duce an unnecessary amount of small coal and

dust.

The Buying of Coal. - Coal is always cheaper

if it can bo bouglit in largo quantities - by the

sack or bag is one of the most expensive ways

in which it can be procured. Naturally the

amount ordered must depend upon the accom-

modation there is for storing. The prices are

generally much cheaper in summer than in

winter, and, if convenient, there is a distinct

advantage in laying up a store at this time of

year. Diu-ing the months of June, July, and

August is the most advantageous time to buy.

Sometimes it is possible to make an arrangement

with the coal company that if the purchase is

made in the summer the coal will only be

delivered a ton or half a ton at a time as

required.

It is important to buy the right kind of coal

for the different ranges or fire-places. Range

nuts or cobbles are excellent for kitchen use, and

it would be most extravagant to use finer coal

for this purpose. Coke, which is cheaper than

coal, is often burnt along with the range nuts.

A larger and better kind of coal will lie required

for use in the sitting-rooms. The housekeeper

should see that the coal with which she is

supphed does not contain too much dust. A

careful watch should always be kept on this.

Coal should always be ordered from a good

reliable merchant, and, if possible, from a depot

in one's own neighbourhood so as to avoid any

extra charge for carriage. The price of coal

fluctuates very much according to the supply.

It is also affected by laboiu- disputes involving

strikes, lock-outs, &c., and is, as a rule, cheaper

in localities which are in close proximity to a

coal-field.

Householders who live in flats should ask for

their coal to be delivered in half -sacks, as these

are easier to carry up a number of stairs.

Economy in the Use of Coal. - An extravagant

use of coal is one of the greatest soiu"ces of waste

in a house, but, with careful management, much

can be done to economise in this direction with-

out in any way reducing the amount of comfort

to be gained from the fires.

Fortunately the construction of stoves and

grates has been very much improved of late

years, and what are known as slow combustion

stoves are fitted up in all the modern houses.

Small coal should always be burnt along with

the large. A ton of coal always produces a

certain amount of dust, but if this is not suffi-

cient an extra amount can always bo ordered

by the sack.

When a room is not in actual use or when the

weather is mild and it is yet advisable that the

fire be kept in, a lump of coal should be put on

when the fare is rather low and then a good

shovelful of damp slack placed on the top.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

Tlais is called " backing the fire," and by this

means it can be kept in for several hours, and

when a blaze is wanted a little breaking up with

the poker is all that is necessary. Continual

poking is also a cause of waste ; the less a fire

is touched the better, and if it is desired to keep

the room at an equal temperature the fire should

never be allowed to burn too low, but a few

pieces of coal put on gently from time to time

with a sprinkling of dust.

Sometimes the fire-place in a room is unneces-

sarily large, and this can be remedied by the

use of fire-bricks, which will reduce the space

and at the same time throw out heat. Clay

balls are sometimes used for the same purpose.

Briquettes are also used to economise coal.

They are made of coal dust moistened and formed

into blocks. Used along with a Uttle moistened

slack they will keep a fire in for hoirrs, even all

night, and they are a great convenience in this

way. The only disadvantage to their use is

that they cause a lot of dust when broken up.

Cinders should also be utilised. The larger

cinders in the room -fires should be used when

laying the next fire, while the smaller ones

which have been sifted from the ashes can always

be used in the kitchen-fire or in a boiler-fire .if

one is used.

Wood. - Logs of wood are frequently used as

fuel, and in country districts a supply of logs

can often be had quite cheaply, and they make a

nice cheery fire in the winter. In town, however,

they are not as a rule any cheaper than coal.

Firewood can be bought quite cheaply in

bundles, but even with this extravagance should

be avoided. One bundle should be made to

light two fires ; in fact, with care it can be made

to serve for three. Tuere are also different

kinds of firelighters to be had, and sometimes

these are cheaper than the bundles of wood as

they light the fire more easily, especially if the

coal is of a hard make.

THE LARDER

A hoiise of any considerable size usually con-

tains a larder in which perishable food can be

kept, and the importance of this room cannot be

over-estimated. The ideal arrangement is to

have it in two parts, so that dairy produce may

be kept separate from butcher -meat, &c.

Position. - Whenever possible the larder

should have a northerly or easterly aspect and

comparative absence of bright sunshine. It

is important, too, that it should be conveniently

near the kitchen, although not near enough to

be influenced by the heat of the range. It

should never be placed near a lavatory ; neither

shovild the window overlook that part of the

premises where the gulleys to receive the contents

of the waste-pipes are placed.

Arrangement and Fittings. - The ceiling should

be lime- or white-washed. The walls too, if they

are not tiled, should be lime- or white-washed or

painted with some sanitary paint which can

easily be washed.

The shelves aie best made of stone, marble, or

slate, although wooden ones are sometimes fixed.

In any case it is well to have a slab of slate or

marble on wliich special things, such as butter

and milk, can be placed to keep them cool.

Window-sills shoiold be Uned if possible with

glazed tiles, and the floor should be of stone or

tiles (red flags) or concrete.

Ventilation. - There should be one or more

windows with which to ventilate the larder.

If there are two one should be glazed to let in

Ught and the other should be fitted with wire

gauze or perforated zinc, fine enough to exclude

all flies. If there is only one window it should

be kept open constantly, and a piece of musHn

should be stretched tightly across it to keep

out fhes and dust. There must be a through

ventilation, and sometimes it is advisable to have

one of the panels of the door fitted with perforated

zinc in order to secure the necessary draught.

Or sometimes perforated bricks are let into the

walls, which help considerably to ventilate the

larder.

The door of the larder should fit securely.

Requisites for the Larder. - Strong hooks

securely fixed in the ceiUng or himg from

rods of iron running from

side to side of the larder,

from wliich to hang meat,

game, &c. ; a few smaller

hooks fixed to the shelves

or walls ; a wiie rack,

baskets or wooden boxes for

vegetables; bags of netting

for lemons ; a bread-pan, a

large earthenware pan for

milk with a piece of muslin

as a covering ; wire covers

for cold meat, odd cups,

basins, plates and dishes,

also a few muslin bags for

holding meat, hams, &c.,

and some improvised meat-safes made of muslin

bags stretched out by wooden hoops.

A refrigerator is an advantage in a larder

but by no means a necessity, except in lai'ge

estabUshments or in houses where ices are

largely used (see Ices).

Temperature. - This should not exceed 50№

Fahr. in simimer, nor fall below 38№ Fahr. in

winter.

Cleaning the Larder. - Absolutљ cleanliness must

be maintained in the larder by daily and

weekly cleaning.

Daily Cleaning. - ( 1 ) Wipe over the shelves with

a damp cloth and put food not being used

immediately for cooking on clean plates and

dishes.

(2) Wipe over the floor also with a damp

cloth or with a brush with a damp cloth or swab

Vegetable-Kack.

100

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tied over it (sweeping and dusting must never

be done •while food is in the larder, as it simply

raises the dust to lot it fall afterwards on the

food).

(3) Wipe out the bread-pan.

(4) Burn any scraps not quite fresh of fish,

bones, vegetables, &c.

Weekly Cleaning. - A special day should be

chosen for tliis : -

( 1 ) R-emovo all food from the larder.

(2) Sweep and dust walls and floor ; gather

up dust and burn.

(3) When dust has settled, dust and scrub

shelves, using cfl,rbolic soap, or if the weather is

hot some disinfectant may bo added to the

water, such as carbolic, Jeyes' Fluid, Sanitas, or

Izol.

(4) Scrub floor with soft soap or carbolic soap

and water.

(5) Leave door open to dry floor, &c. When

dry replace the food on clean dishes.

(6) Thoroughly wash out bread-pan and leave

it to dry and air before returning the bread.

(7) In hot weather place bowls of charcoal or

disinfectant and water on the shelves.

Occasionally -

(1) WTiitewash or limewash the ceiling about

every six months.

(2) Scrub wire gauze or perforated zinc of

windows and doors with disinfectant or carbolic

soap and water.

(3) Scald and scrub meat-hooks and wire

meat-covers.

(4) Wash muslin covers when necessary.

(5) Fill up any cracks or mouse-holes with

cement and place traps when necessary.

Treatment of Various Kinds of Food - Meat,

Game, and Poultry. - All uncooked meat should

be hung. If there is a cut side keep this upper-

most to prevent the juice running out. Examine

the meat carefully each day and wipe it with a

cloth to keep it dry. It may also be dusted

over with a little flour. The marrow should be

removed from the bone of such joints as a

sirloin, ribs of beef or loin of mutton, before the

meat is hung up.

If there is any sign of taint cut off the infected

part and burn it, then wash the meat with a

weak solution of Condy's fluid and water, vinegar

and water, or borax and water. If there is a

danger of flies attacking the moat, pepper it

well and hang it up in muslin ; or if there is a

danger of the meat not keeping, it may bo

partially cooked.

Frozen meat should be well thawed before

cooking ; it should be taken from the larder and

kept in a warm kitchen for an hour or two.

Cooked meat should be lifted out of the gravy

with which it has been served and put on a dry

plate covered over with a meat-screen.

If game or poultry has to be kept some time

it should not be plucked, as the feathers are a

protection from fliee. Tie a piece of string

tightly round the nock to exclude the aii and

liang it up. A Uttle charcoal may also be put

inside the vent to help to preserve it. This may

bo made by putting a piece of wood in the oven

and letting it remain until it is quite black. It

should be hung in a current of air and well

sprinkled with pepper if there is any danger of

flies. If there is anj' sign of taint the feathers

should be removed and the bird washed in salt

and water or vinegar and water. Repeat if

necessary and then rinse in fresh water.

The length of time game should be kept

depends partly on the weather and partly on

individual taste, some people not caring to eat

it until it smells distinctly high, while others

prefer to use it comparatively fresh.

To Keep Suet. - If there are any glands or

kernels to be scon these should be removed, also

any parts which show discoloration, as these

very soon become tainted and spoil the rest. If

the suet has to be kept for several days it is a

good plan to bury it in flour. If it is put into

the flour-bin it will not impart any flavour to the

contents.

Ham and Sides of Bacon. - Hang in muslin

bags dusted with pepper or ginger to keep off

the flies. If they are to be kept a long time the

bags should be made of calico, or strong brown

paper may be used for wrapping them in.

Lard. - Keep in a closely covered crock or

basin.

Bones (for stock). - If unable to use at once

bake sharply in the oven for a few minutes.

Stock and Soup. - See p. 118.

Fish. - Fish should always be placed in the

coolest part of the larder - on a marble or slate

slab if possible. It is always better if it can be

used fresh, but when necessary to keep it for

a day or two sprinkle liberally with salt, or in

hot weather it may be wrapped in a piece of

muslin wrung out of vinegar and water. Dried

fish should be hung on a rod or hook.

Farm Produce - Butter. - Keep in an earthen-

ware crock, cover with a piece of muslin wrung

out of salted water and then with a tight-fitting

lid. If there is a largo quantity of butter to bo

stored it should be packed very tightly in the

crock so as to leave no

room for air to get down

the sides. Place the

crock in a cool, dark,

and airy place.

To keep fresh butter

in hot weather a butter-

cooler should be used;

this is made with a

cover into which is

poured a little water.

Failing a butter-cooler

place the butter in a bowl standing in a larger

bowl of cold water. Cover it with a piece of

muslin, allowing the ends of the muslin to dip

into the water. The water, which should be

Butter-Cooler.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

101

changed daily, is soaked up by the musUn and

thus kept constantly wet.

Butter must not be put near any strong-

smelling substance as it quickly absorbs any

flavotir.

Cheese. - A cut piece of cheese should be

wrapped in grease-proof paper or in damp

muslin and kept in a cheese dish or jar or tin in

which there is a little ventilation. A large piece

of cheese ought to be turned frequently and the

rind rubbed occasionally with a cloth to prevent

moisture collecting. A ripe cheese must be

watched carefully to see that it is not attacked

by the cheese fly.

Milk and Cream. - Strict cleanHness is the

first necessity. The jug or basin in which the

milk is kept must be thoroughly scalded and

rinsed with cold water. Milk should always be

kept covered, and, Uke butter, it should not be

put neao" anything with a strong smell, as it

readily absorbs" odovu-s. It is a bad plan to mix

milk - a fresh lot should never be added to some

that has been in the house several hours. In

hot weather the milk should be scalded if it has

to be kept for several hours. Stand the jug

containing it in a large saucepan of water and

heat to almost boiHng -point, or tliis may be done

in a double saucepan. A pinch of carbonate of

soda or powdered borax may be added to the

inilk to preserve it, but this spoils the flavovu*.

The same care must be taken with cream. If

it is scalded as above it will keep sweet for

several hours. A lunnp of sugar will also help

to preserve it.

Eggs should be kept in a basket or on an

egg-stand where they do not touch each other.

If there is room for storing, the thrifty house-

keeper will buy a quantity of eggs in the spring

and store them for winter use. They can be

preserved in one of the following methods : -

(1) Place them in an air-tight box between

layers of coarse salt. Tlie small end of the egg

should be placed downwards and they must

never touch each other. Put a layer of salt

two inches deep on the top, cover with a thick

piece of caUco or strong paper, and then a tight-

fitting lid. This must be kept in a cool place.

(2) Grease the eggs (they must be very fresh)

over with lard, oil, or any pure fat and place them

on a tray with a layer of bran above and below.

(3) Pack in lime, in the same manner as for

salt, only this renders them so brittle that they

are unfit for boiling.

(4) Lay them in a bath of water glass. Water

glass can be bought for about 4d. per pound, and

full directions for its use are printed on each tin.

Bread. - Bread should be kept closely covered

in an earthenware bread-pan with a hd, or in an

enamelled iron bin. It must never be put away

while hot, but should be allowed to cool where

the air can circulate freely round it.

The pan or crock must bo wiped out regixlarly

in order to free it from all musty crumbs, and

once a week or once a fortnight thoroughly

scalded, and then allowed to become cool and

dry before the bread is returned to it.

Bread can also be kept well if it is placed in a

clean cloth and placed on a shelf.

What to do when there is no Larder. - In many

small houses and flats there is no proper larder,

and one cupboard has to serve the purpose of

larder and storeroom and sometimes as a place

for keeping dishes as well.

When this is the case the quantities ordered

must be as small as possible and cleanUness and

order are all the more necessary. If the shelves

are made of wood it is a good plan to have them

covered with white oil -cloth, as this can so easily

be wiped over or washed. In addition to tliis

cupboard, a meat-safe should be provided and

placed either outside or in a cool place. Need-

less to say, it should not be placed anywhere near

a lavatory. A small meat-safe can occasionally

be fixed to the outside ledge of the kitchen

window. If it is out of doors the top must be

protected from rain by a covering of wood or

galvanised iron, and it must be scrubbed out

every week and just as carefully as an inside

cupboard.

FaiUng a meat-safe, small cane and muslin

cages should be bought in which meat can be

hung up in any cool and well-ventilated place.

They are very inexpensive to buy, or they can

even be simply constructed at home by making

a bag of musUn di-awn in at top and bottom.

Place a plate at the foot and keep out the sides

with hoopf- of cane lightly tackod in position.

Economy in the Larder. - No housekeeper

should dispense with a daily visit to the larder.

A survey of this department will help her in

ordering the meals of the day besides acting as

a stimulus to the cook to avoid waste and keep

things in good order.

The chief points to notice when inspecting the

larder are : -

(1) What food there is left from the previous

day's meals, and how best it can be made to re-

appear at table.

(2) What scraps there are for the stock-pot

and odds and ends of fat that can be rendered

down.

(3) The condition of any meat or game that is

being hung.

(4) The condition of the bread-pan - if there

are any scraps that will require to be used up.

(5) What new provisions will be required.

(6) That the larder itself is as tidy and fresh

as it ought to be, and that plates on which food

rests, as well as any basins and jugs, are all clean.

STORING FRUIT AND VEGETABLES

Vegetables. - When vegetables are only bought

in small quantities as required thej'^ should be

kept in baskets or a vegetable rack and stored

in a cool place - ^the floor of the larder or cellar

102

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

is the best. Potatoes alone, carrots and turnips

together, and green and other special vegetables

by themselves. Onions, ehalots, chives, and

garlic are best hung up by strings or in a net bag

and kept away from other food.

Parsley and niint sliould be kept with the

Btalks in water, and the water changed every

day.

Tomatoes should be kept on a plate or spread

out on a shelf without touching each other.

To Store Vegetables. - Although vegetables

are at their best when freshly gathered, they can

wlien necessary be kept for a limited period.

\\lien potatoes axe bought in large quantities

and stored through the winter, they should be

kept in a dry dark cellar and covered with straw

to keep off the frost. If kept in a bright or

damp place they will spoil and become milled

and withered. Rub off all sprouts and shoots

as they appear. Examine frequently and re-

move any that show signs of decay. In the

country potatoes are sometimes stored in a deep

liole in the ground lined with straw and banked

up with sand.

Artichokes caii be treated in the same way.

Carrots, Beetroots, and Parsnips may be pre-

served in dry sand or earth in a dark cellar.

Turnips should be allowed to lie on the floor

of a dark cellar.

Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers will keep for

some time if they are hung up by the stalk in a

cool situation.

Small Cabbages too, if they are sound and

firm and cut before the frost touches them, can

be preserved for a few weeks if they are spread

on a stone floor in the dark.

Herbs. - If these can be bought fresh in the

summer time it is best to dry them quickly

beside the kitchen fire. Then strip off the

leaves and rub them through a fine sieve. The

different kinds should be kept separate and

stored in air-tight boxes or bottles.

Fruit. - If only bought in small quantities,

such fruit as apples, pears, plums, apricots, and

oranges should be wiped

and spread out on a tray,

on the shelves of the store-

room or larder, or on a

special fruit -stand.

Bananas and grapes

should be hung. Softer

fruits, such as currants

and berries, should only

bo bought as required and

then used at once.

Lemons should bo wiped

dry and hung up in nets,

or if laid on a shelf they

should be turned every

day.

All fruit should be kept in a cool place and

out of the sun, unless it is a kind which requires

further ripening.

Frnlt-Stand.

When Apples have to be stored in large

quantities for winter use, they should be dry,

sound, and not too ripe. They should be spread

out on slielvos in a fruit-room or an attic that

does not admit too much sunshine. They should

not be allowed to touch each other and any

decaying ones should be instantly removed.

Rough-skinned apples, such aa russets, keep

best.

Pears, if not ripe, may bo kept in the same

way or hung up by the stalks.

THE STORE-ROOM OR STORE-CLOSET

If a small room can be set aside for the storage

of groceries and other household commodities

it will be a great convenience to the careful

housewife, and if she has some knowledge as to

the stocking and general management of that

store-room she will feel a sense of pride in keeping

it well plenished and in good order.

A store-room should be dry and airy, tidy and

weU arranged. A room with a northern or

eastern aspect is the best. It should be as near

the kitchen as possible in order to avoid un-

necessary carrying, end not in the vicinity of

a sink or closet.

If a small room is not available a good-sized

cupboard can serve the purpose, and goods, &c.,

must be bought according to the acoommodation

for keeping them and individual requirements.

Fittings and Arrangements. - The store-room

should have its walls and ceiling white-washed

or coated with sanitary paint, which can be

easily washed. The walls and floor should be

examined for any cracks, and if there are such

they shoiild be carefully filled up with cement

to prevent the entrance of mice, beetles, and other

vermin. Tlie floor should be well boarded and

either left uncovered or covered with linoleum.

If there is an outside window it should be

covered with wire geuze or fine perforated zinc

through which no flies can enter.

The walls should befitted with plenty of shelves,

and if these can be graduated in size it will be

found an advantage ; broader shelves below to

hold the bulkier and heavier articles, and narrower

ones above for those that are lighter. It is a bad

plan to have the shelves so wide that the jars

and other receptacles have to bo placed one be-

hind the other ; it will be a case of " out of siglit

out of mind," and it will bo impossible to see

at a glance what the store-room contains. The

shelves should be covered with white or brown

oilcloth, which is easily wiped down or washed.

This can be fastened in position with drawing-

pins if there is difficulty in making it lie flat.

If space permits it will be found a great con-

venience to have a small inner cupboard with

one or two drawers, also a strong steady table

with a pair of scales or balance.

A few hooks along the edges of the shelves

will also bo useful for hanging such articles aa

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

103

can be suspended, and they sometimes lielp to

eke out an otherwise Hmited space.

Requisites. - Besides the stores and pro-

visions it will be found useful to liave the

following articles in the store-room : -

(1) A dust-pan and brush and one or two

dusters for keeping the shelves, floor, &c., in

order.

(2) A supply of paper, brown and white,

string, pen and ink, and some labels or adhesive

papers. A drawer in the table or cupboard

might be utilised for these or a special corner

of the shelves.

(3) Jars, canisters, boxes, and bottles for

keeping the various stores. Any odd jars and

boxes, &c., can be used for the

piirpose as long as they are sound

and have tight-fitting lids or

saucers to cover the tops very

closely. Empty biscuit-boxes, jam

or pickle jars, can be utilised for

the purpose. For those who can

afford something daintier there are

many kinds of store jars to be

bought both in earthenware and

enamelled tin with the names of

the various groceries, &c., printed on the outside,

from about Is. each according to size. Glass jars

with lids are also nice for groceries that are bought

in small quantities, such as almonds, preserved

fruits, cocoanut, chocolate, &c., and neat tin

boxes or a small chest for keeping the various

spices. Receptacles that have no printed name

must be neatly labelled to show the natiure of the

contents.

(4) A slate and pencil for noting down what

stores require replenishing should be hung in a

convenient place in the store-room, or a store

Store Jar.

rrf

> ,

g8"8

; ""

" ^ '

store Indicator.

indicator may be piirchased for about 3s. This

useful little remembrancer gives a printed list

of the different stores on a neat frame, and a

system of pegs and holes indicates what is

required.

(5) A few implements will also be required -

a pair of scissors, a cork-screw, a knife, a tin-

opener, two or three spoons of different sizes,

a few scoops, and a cheese and soap-cutter.

(0) It will also be found useful to keep a small

tool-box in the store-room containing a hammer.

s&w, gimlet, screw-driver, a pair of pincers,

chisel, and a tiseful supply of nails, hooks, and

tacks.

Grouping the Stores. - ^In arranging the store-

room the various articles must be grouped

methodically according to their kind and in

such a way that they can be easily found. Keep

a special shelf or corner for cereals, another for

the different kinds of sugar, another for jams

and preserves, another for bottled goods, and

so on.

If there is a small cupboard this might be

reserved for a medicine cupboard, or for special

articles or poisons, which are better kept under

lock and key. There should also be a special

corner for wine if there is no separate wine

cellar, and a special corner for cleaning requisites.

Then if there are drawers these might be used

for kitchen paper, dishpapers, cutlet frills,&c.,and

another one for an extra supply of dusters, dish

cloths, floor cloths, &c., while the nails and hooks

can be utilised for such articles as can be hung.

Articles such as tea and coffee, cheese and soap,

must not be placed near each other, as the smeU

and flavour may be imparted from one to the

other. Nothing must be kept in paper parcels,

and every jar, canister, box, &c., must be

clearly labelled on the outside. The heavier

jars should be placed on the bottom shelf or

on the floor, if dry, and those in constant use

readiest to hand.

Cleaning the Store-room. - The store-room must

be kept very tidy. The jars ought to be taken

down periodically and thoroughly dusted, and

the shelves dusted and washed over before they

are retiirned. When necessary, the jars should

be washed out and well dried before being

refilled. The table and floor shoTild also be

scrubbed when they require it, and everything

kept in good order. If the stores are dropped

about in an untidy manner it will only encourage

mice and insects. It is important also that the

store-room should be well aired.

Giving out Stores. - Stores should be given out

regularly, either daily or weekly and at a fixed

date. They should be checked when they come

in, and the consumption should be strictly

regulated, or the method of bujdng in quantities

will be found an extravagant one.

There are two ways of checking consumption :

one method is to keep all stores and pro\asions

under lock and key and to give them out by

weight and measure. Tliis method is exact, but

it does not always answer ; it is more suitable

for a public institution or for a large establish-

ment than for a small private house. It is often

a cause of worry and annoyance, and is apt to

cause friction between mistress and servants.

As a rule, good servants will work most willingly

in houses where they are trusted, and if we

begin by calculating measure for measure with

them they will doubtless do the same with us.

Servants who are inclined to be wasteful will

104

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

waste by ounces just as easily as they can by

pounds.

Still, it is not wise to have large quantities

out at one time for general use. Smaller jars

can be filled with the different stores for daily

consumption wthout actually doling them out

by the ounce and half ounce and so much

for each person. Some things, such as butter,

tea, and sugar, it is very usual to measure out

for kitchen use, and where there are several

servants this is a wise plan and is thought

nothing of (see p. 45).

Another way of checking consumption is by

means of the weekly bills. Each housekeeper

must draw up her o\vn estimate as to how much

should be spent upon certain things and then

make an effort to keep within its limit (see

p. 365).

GENERAL NOTES ON STORING

Tea and Coffee should be kept in air-tight

canisters or in a lead-lined chest.

Dry Groceries. - Keep in covered earthenware

Jars.

Starch. - Keep in a cool place and well covered,

as air turns it powdery.

Soda and Salt. - Keep in a wooden or tin box

with a lid. Damp is bad for them; it forms

them into blocks.

Spices. - Keep in air-tight tins or in a spice

chest.

Flour. - Keep in a wooden or enamelled bin.

Sometimes the bin is divided, and one portion

can be used for household flour

and the other for Vienna flour.

If the floor is of stone or damp the

bin must be raised.

Jams, Pickles, Bottled Fruits, &c.

must be kept in a cool place as

they are liable to ferment. If the

store-room is hot they should bo

placed noar the floor.

Soap. - Cut in blocks with an

old knife or soap - cutter and

stack up with a space between each block.

Candles. - If store-room is warm rub with

methylated spirits to harden them.

Biscuits and Cakes. - Keep in tin boxes with

tight-fitting lid.

CARE OF WINES

Wines require a great deal of attention, and

their preservation in a state fit to drink largely

depends upon the treatment they receive. Any

carelessness or neglect is sure to bo followed by

deterioration in quality, and the loss of those

properties which can only arrive at perfection if

the maturing process is allowed to proceed under

conditions which are favourable to their growth

and development.

The Wine Cellar. - The collar should bo under-

Enamelled Bin.

ground if possible, as it will then Ije less affected

by variations in temperature. It should be

cool, dry, and well ventilated without any

strong draughts. Tho walls are generally made

of brick or stone and white-washed, and the

shelves or bins of wood or iron.

Ceire should be taken to see that the di'ainage

is good and that no foul air enters. The windows

or holes to admit light should be small, as any

sunshine would rai.se the temperature which

ought to be kept uniform. The thermometer

should stand about 65№ Fahr. and there should

be no variations. If at any time it is necessary

to raise the temperature artificially, gas must

on no account be employed, as the vitiation of

the air which results is injiu-ious to the wine -

an oU lamp or small oil stove is better.

Apart from any artificial heating there will

always be a slight difference in the degree of

warmth between the top bins and the lower

ones, owing to the tendency of warm air to rise,

and in consequence of this care must be taken

to arrange the different varieties of wines in

separate parts of the cellar according to their

indi\'idual requirements as regards heat.

Binning Wines. - Bins are the open divisions

in the cellar in which the wine is placed. They

may either be fixtures in

the cellar or may be

bought separately and

placed on the floor ; if

the latter is done, care

must be taken that the

bin stands steadily or the

wine will be disturbed.

In arranging the wines

it must be remembered

that all wines cannot be

treated alike.

As a rule, it is best to

bin the light varieties such

as Hock, Moselle, and all

sparkling varieties at the bottom. Clarets and

Burgundies in tho middle, and Sherry and Port

and other fortified wines at the top.

The bottles must be placed in the bins Iiori-

zontallj', as the wine would soon deteriorate

were they allowed to stand upright. When

binning port tho bottles should be so placed

that tho chalk or white paint-mark is uppermost

on account of the sediment.

Tlie corks of wine bottles should be examined

for signs of decay, because if once they become

faulty and the air can penetrate the wine will

be spoilt.

Wine should bo consumed as soon as possible

after the bottle has been opened. The lighter

wines are hardly fit to di-ink if they are kept for

even two or three days after being decanted,

although the fortified wines, such as sherry

and port, will last rather longer. (See also Service

of Wines, p. 248.)

Ale, Stout, and Cider. - ^These beverages require

Wine Biu.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN"

105

a temperatui-e of about 50№ Fahr. Tlie bottles

should be allowed to stand upright a few days

before use. Stout should not be kept in the

house too long, as it is liable to generate too

much gas. If beer is kept in a cask, a stand

should be provided in order to raise it about

a foot from the ground. A cask should be so

placed that there is a space all round it to

enable of its being examined from time to

time. It must also be perfectly steady and

wedges of wood used, if necessary, to keep it from

shaking.

Spirits (Whisky, brandy, rum, and gin). -

Spirits are best stood upright, and when in

bottles require very little attention.

Australian Wines. - These wines are easily

handled, being sold in flagons with screw stoppers.

Care should be taken to keep the stoppers

screwed up very tightly, because if the air is

allowed to get to the wine it is liable to turn

it acid.

When no Wine Cellar is Available. - ^If there

is no wine cellar in wliicli. to keep a supply,

wine must be bought in smaller quantities and

just enough for immediate reqtiirements. A

corner of the store cupboard or some down-

stairs cellar can sometimes be utilised for

Wine Cabinet.

keeping a moderate supply of bottles, and for

convenience sake a small bin might be fitted up.

Or a wine cabinet is sometimes found useful,

especially in flats and small houses. They are

fitted with a strong lock and key, and one

to hold four dozen bottles can be bought for

about 30s.

MARKETING

General Hints. - It requires a considerable

amount of forethought and common-sense to

do really good marketing, to buy just what is

necessary for the needs of the household, to

secure cho best value for one's money, and to

be economical in the true sense of the word

\sithout being parsimonious.

Whether we have much money or little at

our disposal it always requires some care to lay

it out to the best advantage, and the less there

is the more necessity there will be to make the

most of it.

Money is often wasted and time lost by the

hoiisekeeper not knowing how to choose and

order food. It requires some experience to do

it well, but with common-sense and good will

the art of marketing is easily acquired.

Each purchase should be thoughtfully con-

sidered, and when means are scarce money must

not be frittered away on any trifle which may

strike the fancy and has no real value.

It is always best to deal with good reliable

shops and not to be continually hunting after the

cheapest market. Try, if possible, to patronise

the shops in yoiu- immediate neighbourhood,

and preferably those in which there is a big

turnover, where articles are being constantly

sold out and renewed. Avoid shops where the

goods are not kept in an orderly and cleanly

condition, or where they are exposed to the

dust and dirt of the street, or to be touched and

handled by every passer-by.

However small the income may be, it will

never be found economical to buy goods of

inferior quahty in order to save a few pence.

Aim rather at secvu-ing good material of its kind

and at avoiding luxuries, except as an occasional

treat when they can be afforded.

In order to ascertain whether or not you are

being charged a fair price for your provisions,

try to obtain a price list from two or three good

shops and then compare them.

It is the duty of every mistress to see that her

merchandise is good ; there is no virtue in

allowing short weight and inferior quality nor

in permitting oneself to be imposed upon in any

way. One only gets thљ best attention by ex-

pecting and demanding it.

Previous to making out her order the mistress

should go tlirough the larder and store-room and

make a note of what is requii-ed, always bearing

in mind the bill of fare for the day. Sometimes

it is possible to order for two days at a time or

to order always one day ahead to ensiu-e having

the provisions in the house in good time in the

morning. This is often necessary in houses

where a very early dinner has to be provided for,

and it enables tlie cook, or whoever undertakes

the cooking, time to start her preparations

directly the breakfast tilings are cleared away.

Whenever possible, the mistress of the house

or housekeeper should do her own shopping,

not necessarily every day, but certainly occasion-

ally. In this way the tradesmen get a better

idea of her likes and dislikes and can generally

serve her better. Variety will be suggested

by what she sees in the shops, and a knowledge

of what things are in season is more quickly

obtained. With meat especially she will get a

bettor joint or more suitable piece of meat for

her purpose if she sees it cut and weighed tlian

if she simply L^ft it to the butcher's discretion.

At the fishmonger's, too, a personal visit is a wise

106

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

plan, as tlio price of fish varies so much, and even

from day to day according to tlie weather and

other circumstances. The more plentiful kind

will always be the cheapest for the time being,

and it will generally bo found that it is the best

as well.

Shopping should be done as etu-Iy as possible,

as there is generally a better selection in the

forenoon and provisions are fresher.

If this personal shopping cannot be managed

by the mistress of the household and there is no

responsible person to whom the business may be

deputed, a duplicate order book should be used.

A sepfirate list for each tradesman should be

written out in duplicate form, giving exact

quantities requirec^ and price if possible. The

tradesmen can then send for their orders, one

list being given to them and the other retained

for reference and for the purpose of chocking

the house books. This is a safer method than

that of giving haphazard verbal orders to

message boys.

Small vouchers or weight bills should accom-

pany all goods sent from the shops, and these

should be used for checking the various items.

(For Payment of Bills, House Books, &c., see

pp. 365-66.)

GENERAL NOTES ON ORDERING GROCERIES

AND PROVISIONS

When ordering stores there are several points

to be considered besides the ordering of what

is actually requii'ed. We must consider in

addition what will keep well, what space there

is for storing it, what we can afford, and whether

or not it is the best season for a large purcheise.

The slate or indicator will help us as regards

what is wanted, as when each article is finished

or nearly so the fact ought to be noted and then

that article included in the next order.

It must be remembered that articles bought

in small quantities are often dearer in proportion

than when purchased in large quantities ; not

only is the price per pound less, but the weight

of paper and paper -bags is saved.

Good-keeping things should always be bought

in large quantities where the purse is not very

straitened and where space is not a consideration.

As there is generally a cheap and a dear

season an attempt should be made to benefit by

the former by buying in as large a store as

possible of any special commodity that will keep

well and for which there is likely to be use.

All things having a strong taste or smell, such

as spices, essences, coffee (when ground), &c.,

should be bought in small quantities, as they are

apt to deteriorate.

.Ul Grains and Cereals, Soda and Salt, may bo

bought in moderate supplies according to the

needs of the household.

Sugar may also be bought in considerable

quantities, although moist sugar must bo

watched, as it sometimes becomes infected with

sugar mite. Cano sugar is the best for all

preserving purposes ; jams made with it will

keep longer and have a better coloiu- than if

beetroot sugar were used. Beetroot sugar is,

however, quite good for other sweetening

purposes.

Tea should be bought in moderate quantities.

It should be well twisted and the leaves not too

small. Tlie special blend to use is entirely a

matter of taste.

Dried Fruits will also keep well and should be

bought in the autumn when the new fruit comes

in. Figs, however, must be carefully looked

over, as they often become infected with small

maggots.

Soap improves with keeping and may safely

be ordered in large quantities. The drier it is

the less it will waste when used. There ai-e

many different kinds - ^plain yellow soap, mottled

soap, paraffin soap. Sunlight soap, and carbolic

soap are all useful for household purposes ; also

the soft soap, which should be bought in large

tins and given out as required.

Candles will also improve with keeping.

Tinned Foods. - Choose tins that are in perfect

condition and free from rust. There should be

no bulges, which are a sign of fermentation ; the

tops and bottoms should be rather concave.

Foods preserved in earthenware or glass jars are

better and safer than tinned ones, but they

generally cost more money.

Cheese and Butter must always be chosen by

the taste. Cheap butter should be avoided - it

is better to use good dripping or lard for cooking

purposes than inferior butter.

The choice of cheese is entirely a question of

taste. For a moderately priced cheese some of

the American cheeses similar to our Cheddar

cheeses are to be recommended, also the round

Dutch cheeses. In choosing such cheeses as

Stilton, Grorgonzola, and Roquefort, select one

that combines moisture with green mould.

Cream cheeses must always be bought very

fresh and used at once.

Eggs if fresh are clear when held up to the light ;

if stale there is a dark spot or cloudy-looking

part. They may be tested by putting tnem in

salt and water - 1 ounce salt to 1 pint water ;

eggs that float in this are not good. They

should not be too light, and when shaken the

inside should not float about. When eggs are

cheap it is sometimes a good plan to buy in

large quantity and store them for the winter.

(See p. 101.)

Ham. - Choose a short thick leg with a

moderate amount of fat. The rind should be

rather thin and the bone fine. Tlie quality

may be tested by running a pointed knife or

skewer in close to the bone ; when withdrawn it

should not bo greasy nor have an unpleasant

smell, but, on the contrary, be clean and have a

good flavour. Hams vary in price according to

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

107

the manner of curing and special reputation. In

England the Yorkshire and Cumberland hams

are generally considered the finest and still

command a good price, although some of the

southern cotmties produce hams by no means

inferior. In Scotland, the Dumfries and Gallo-

way hams rank among the best, and Irish hams

from Belfast are much prized. Canadian and

Danish hams are also in the market in large

quantities, and although the flavour is not con-

sidered so delicate as that of the home-cured

variety, their moderate price recommends them

to those who have to study economy.

Bacon must be fresh and free from rustiness.

The fat should be very white ; the lean should

adlaere closely to the bone and be of a nice red

colour, and there should be as little gristle as

possible.

The following diagram mil give a general idea

of the way in which a side of bacon is usually

cut in England ; there wiU of coiirse be sub-

divisions to make smaller pieces. What is

known as " streaky " bacon and the flank are

considered the finest, but, being much in demand,

they fetch a high price. The back and loin are

also prime pieces, while the fore-end and gammon,

although not so fine in texture, do excellently

for boiled bacon.

Side of Bacon.

1. Collar.

2. Back.

3. Loin.

4. Corner.

5. Gammon.

6. Flank.

7. Streaky.

8. Fore-end.

HOW TO CHOOSE MEAT

General Hints. - It is very important to buy

meat from a good butcher, and one who can be

thoroughly trxisted.

There are certain signs by wliich the quahty

of the meat can generally be judged. The

texture should be firm and moderately elastic,

and, when pressed, should not leave the imprint

of the finger. If the flesh is flabby and moist

and has an unpleasant odour it is not good.

The lean part should be finely grained, and the

fat, wluch should not be in any undue propor-

tion, should be free from kernels, brown spots,

and streaks of blood.

The meat of most animals that have died a

natural death or by accident should be avoided.

Good meat does not waste much in cooking,

and when left on a dish the juice should not

exude from it in any quantity.

Besides these general points to be remembered

each special kind of meat has its indivndual

character by wliich it can be judged.

Beef. - The best kind of beef is of a nice red

colour, almost a cherry red, and the lean has a

marble appearance, being slightly intergrained

with fat. The fat is a pale yeUow colour, not

mottled, and the suet hard and dry. It is fine

and smooth in textiu-e, with rather an open

grain. There should be little or no gristle

between the fat and the lean, as this generally

indicates that it is the flesh of an old animal.

Beef of a dark colour with very yellow fat should

be avoided.

Beef is more nourishing and strengthening

than mutton, but not so easy of digestion. Ox

beef is better than cow beef and generally

fetches a higher price. Bull beef is very coEirse,

and is never sold by a good butcher.

Beef should be well hung before it is used

to make it tender ; the time it should hang wUl

depend upon the weather, and it must never be

allowed to become high.

Mutton. - The best mutton is pltimp and

small-boned. The quality depends very much

upon where the animal has been reared, and also

upon the age at which it is killed ; the mountain-

fed sheep are considered the best, and from four

to six years old is the best age for killing, only a

farmer can rarely afford to keep his sheep so

long, and they are generally killed between two

and three years of age.

The lean of mutton is not so red in colour as

beef, but has a darker and browner hue. It

should be firm, close in textiire, and not inter-

grained with fat. The fat should be hard and

very white and waxy. Mutton, like beef, should

be well hung.

Lamb is paler in colour than mutton, and

the fat is pearly white. When fresh, the veins

in the neck end of the fore-quarter have a

bluish tinge, and when stale these develop a

greenish hue. In the hind-quarter the kidneys

should be examined ; if they are flabby with an

unpleasant smell the meat is stale.

A piece of the caul, a thin transparent-looking

membrane, should be sent with each joint of

lamb to wrap round it and protect it when

cooking.

The New Zealand or Canterbury Iamb is much

cheaper than the home grown, but as far as

taste is concerned it is more like mutton, as

it seems to lose its characteristic flavour during

the process of freezing.

The flesh of lamb is tenderer than that of

mutton, but it is more watery and not so nutri-

tious. Lamb cannot be hung for very long.

Pork. - Pork requires very careful choosing

as it is more subject to diseeise than perhaps

any other animal food, and unless one is sure

of its source it is safer to leave it alone. The

flesh should be of a pinky white colour, smooth,

finely grained, and firm to the toucli. The skin

108

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

must not be too thick. Tlie fat sliould be

pearly white with no black specks nor kernels.

Small pork is the best. It is much more difficult

to digest than either beef or mutton, as it con-

tains such a large proportion of fat.

Veal is the flesh of the calf. It should bo

very pale in colour, firm, and closely grained.

The fat should be white, and if that which sur-

rounds the kidney is hard and without smell

the meat is in good condition. Veal is not so

nutritious as beef and it is more difficult of

digestion. Like all other young moats, it should

not l:>e hung verj' long.

Venison is the flesh of deer. Tlie lean should

be finely grained and dark in colour. The fat

should bo plentiful and of a creamy white

appearance.

The age can be judged by the hoof ; in the

young animal the cleft is small and smooth,

while in the older one it has become much

deeper and more rugged.

Venison should be hung as long as possible,

but it must be frequently examined. Its fresh-

ness can be tested by running a knife or skewer

into the bone at the haunch ; if when withdrawn

it smoUs well and is not sticky this is a sure

sign of good condition.

The flesh of the buck is considered superior to

that of the doe.

Suet. - This must be very fresh and of good

quaUty. The solid fat, which surrounds the

kidney, either beef or mutton, is considered the

best. Beef suet should be cream coloured or

pale yellow and mutton suet very white and

waxy. Both should be very firm and dry.

Internal Meats. - All inside meats such as

tripe, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, &c., must be

bought very fresh and used at once.

CALENDAR OF MEAT IN SEASON

Beef, Mutton, and Veal are in season all the

year round.

Lamb. - House lamb from January to May,

grass lamb from May to September, and New

Zealand lamb all the year round.

Pork. - All the year round, but best from

September to May.

Venison. - Buck venison from May to October,

doe venison from October to end of January.

DIFFERENT JOINTS OF MEAT AND

THEIR USES

The cutting up of meat varies somewhat

according to locality and also according to the

special demands of the people with whom the

butchers have to deal.

The following diagrams will give an idea of

how the different animals are cut up by English

butchers, and m.ay also be of assistance to the

housewife in knowing what pioco to order for

the special purpose she has in view.

BEEF

Diagram showing niofle of cutting up Beef

in England.

Sirloin.

:o.

Fore Ribs.

Rump.

11.

Middle Ribs.

Aitchbone.

12.

Chuck Ribs.

Buttock.

13.

Leg of Mutton Piec

Mouse Buttock.

14.

Brisket.

Veiny parts.

15.

Clod.

Thick Flank.

16.

Keck.

Thin Flank.

17.

Shin.

18.

Cheek.

The Sirloin. - This is the best part for roasting,

but it is somewhat expensive. It is usually

divided into three pieces varying in weight

according to the size of the animal. The middle

cut is considered the best, as it has the largest

amovmt of undercut. The piece next the ribs

has very little undercut, and the one next the

rump is a joint difficult to carve, as it has a piece

of bone on one side.

The sirloins from both sides of the animal

not cut asunder form what is called the baron of

beef, corresponding to the saddle in mutton.

This is a joint rarely seen nowadays, but was

famous at banquets in the days of our ancestors.

The fillet or undercut of tlie sirloin is the most

tender part for entries or fillets of beef.

Ribs. - The cuts from the ribs are also good

for roasting, those nearest the sirloin being

the best. Various sizes of joints can be cut

according to special requirements. It is more

economical to have the bone removed and used

for soup and the meat itself rolled. One or

two ribs treated in this way make a neat little

roast for a small family. \Vhen a large cut of

the ribs is ordered and roasted whole, it is better

to havo the thin end cut off and used for a

separate dish, otherwise it becomes overcooked

before the thicker part is ready. The piece of

ribs next the shoulder is better stewed or braised

than roasted.

The Rump. - ^This is divided into three parts

- the middle, the silver-side, and the chump end.

The middle is an excellent piece of fleshy meat

for any purpose. Some of the best steaks are

cut from tliis part ; it is also a first-rato cut for

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

109

pies, for rolled beef, or for a tender stew. The

chump end is also good for stewing. Tho silver-

side is very often salted and is good for boiling.

Buttock or Round. - This is another very fleshy

piece of meat vath little bone. It is one of

the best pieces for braising or boiling, and

is often salted. It can also be roasted, but,

although economical, it is not so fine in flavour

as the ribs or sirloin.

Aitch Bone, or Edge Bone. - This is a cheap

piece of meat, but as it contains a large propor-

tion of bone and wastes very much in cooking

it is not really economical. It is an awkwardly

shaped joint and very difficult to carve. It is

generally boiled and sometimes salted.

Brisket. - This is also sold at a low price,

and is used principally for boiling or stewing.

It is rather fat, but is excellent when salted and

boiled and then served cold.

Flank. - The thick flank is one of the most

economical parts to buy, as it contains no bone

and verj^ little fat. Suitable for braising, stew-

ing, and boiling. The thin flank contains much

more fat, and is best salted, boiled, and eaten

cold.

The Clod and Sticking Piece are both some-

what coarse and only suitable for soup or cheap

stews.

Shin. - This is also coarse grained and very

gelatinous. It is excellent for stock and soup.

The top part will also make an economical stew

if slowly and carefully cooked.

Cheek. - Only suitable for stews and for

making soup. As it contains so much bone it

is not really economical.

Cow Heel is very gelatinous, and is iised

principally for making jelly, or, along with

iTieat, as a foundation for soups. It can also be

carefully boiled or stewed and then eaten with a

good and piquant sauce.

Tail. - This is somewhat expensive. It is

used for making soups, and can also be stewed

or braised.

Heart. - This is rather coarse and very in-

digestible, but it can be made palatable by

being stuffed and very carefully roasted or

braised.

Tongue is usually salted and then boiled

and served cold, or served hot with a good

sauce, or cut in sUces for an entr^.

Tripe. - The inner lining of the stomach.

It is usually sold partially prepared, although in

Scotland it requires many hours' boiling. It is

very tender and easily digested, and for this

reason is frequently ordered for invalids.

There are several different kinds of tripe

popularly known as " honeycomb," " blanket,"

" double " or " book " (because it is like the

leaves of a book), and " reed " the dark -coloured

portion.

Liver. - This is a cheap piece, and is nutritious

for those who can digest it. It requires careful

cooking.

Kidneys.^Used for making soup. Can also be

stewed, although rather indigestible.

Midriff. - A thin fleshy piece which runs across

the middle of the animal. It is rich in flavour

and is very good for stews or beef-steak pudding.

Sweetbread. - In the ox tliis part is coarse, and

can only be made palatable by careful cooking.

VEAL

Mode of cuttlnc up a Calf.

1. Loin.

2. Chump end of Loin.

3. Fillet.

4. Hind-knuckle.

5. Fore-knuckle.

6. Neck (best end).

7. Shoulder.

8. Blade-bone.

9. Breast.

10. Flank.

11. Head.

Veal, which is the flesh of the calf, is cut up

into the following different joints : -

The Fillet. - One of the finest pieces, very

fleshy with little or no bone. Can be used for

any pvu-pose. The best cutlets are cut from

this part. It is high priced, but not over

expensive, as there is practically no waste.

The Breast. - If boned, stuffed and rolled,

this part makes a nice little joint for roasting.

It can also be braised or stewed. Entrees are

also prepared from this piece.

The Loin. - One of the best pieces for roasting,

also for chops.

The Neck. - A good joint for breiising or

stewing. Can also be roasted. The best end

may be cut into chops. The scrag-end is more

suitable for broth.

Knuckle. - This is a favourite part for soup

or broth and is much used in the making of

white stock. The fore-knuckle is more tender

than the hind-knuckle and is often stewed or

boiled and served with a good sauce.

Head and Feet are sometimes served to-

gether as a hash, b\it, being rather insipid in

flavour, they require a good sauce. They can

also be used for pies, when some ham should be

added, and for different entr^s. The head is

iised for soup- Mock Turtle Soup - and the feet

for maJking jelly - Calf's Foot Jelly.

110

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Sweetbread. - This is considered a great

delicacy, and is generally expensive. It is much

iised for entrees, and is a favourite dish for

invalids. The throat Bweotbrcad, which is the

thymus gland of the calf, is considered inferior

in quality to the heart sweetbread.

Kidney. - Generally sold along with a piece of

the loin and roasted. Can also be used separ-

ately in the same way as sheep's kidneys.

Brains. - A \ory delicate morsel for entr6es.

Liver and Heart. - Can be used in the same way

as sheep's hver and heart.

MUTTON

The following diagram will give an idea of the

different joints into which mutton is cut : -

Diagram showing mode of cutting up a Sheep.

1. Leg.

2. Loin.

3. Chump end of the Loin.

4. Neck (best end).

5. Scrag.

6. Shoulder.

7. Breast

8. Head.

9. Shank.

10. Trotter.

The Leg. - This is one of the most economical

cuts for boiling or roeisting, as it is lean with a

small amount of bone in proportion to its size.

It is too large a joint for a small family. It is

sometimes a good plan to have it cut in two

pieces and to roast one piece and boil or stew the

other. \Vlien a piece of the loin is cut along

with the log it is called the haunch.

The Loin. - This is generally divided into two

parts, the best end and the chump end, or

even subdivided into separate cutlets or chops.

The loin makes one of the finest and most

delicate roasts, but it is not economical owing to

the large proportion of fat and bone. If ordering

for a roast it must be well jointed by the butcher

or it will be found difficult to carve, or sometimes

the chine bone, the bone which runs down the

centre of the back, is sawn nearly off and then

removed altogether after cooking. The double

loin from both sides of the animal is called the

saddle. It is considered a very fine joint, but

too large for an ordinary household.

The Necii. - The best end of the neck is also

used for cutlets. It is an excellent piece

for broiling and braising, as it is tender and

delicate in flavour. The scrag-end, wliich Ues

nearer the liead, is a cheap piece of an awkward

shape and contains a good deal of bone. It is

only suitable for broth or plain stews as it is

impossible to cut it in neat pieces.

The Shoulder. - This is another good joint for

roasting, and some people prefer it to the leg.

It is perhaps more delicate in flavour, but is

inchnod to be fat. It can aiao be braised or

boiled.

The Breast. - Is a cheap piece of mutton with

much fat and skin. If boned, stulTed, and

rolled it makes quite a nice little roast. It is

also very suitable for Irish stew where the

potatoes absorb some of the fat.

The Head and Trotters are generally sold at

a low price, but they make excellent broth,

and can also be served as a dish by themselves

with a good sauce or made into a pie and served

cold.

The Pluclc. - This consists of the heaxt, liver

and lungs, which are often sold together. In

Scotland they form the foundation of haggis.

The lungs, or lights, are very inferior, and by

themselves are seldom used, except perhaps as

cats' meat. The heart is sometimes sold by

itself, and is very good stuffed and roasted.

The hver can also be bought separately, and is

generally fried or sauteed along with a httle

bacon.

Kidneys. - These are very dainty morsels

and are a favourite breakfast delicacy. They

axe generally broiled or stewed, and are also used

along with beef in pies and stews. The Iwn

roast often contains one of the kidneys.

LAMB

When lamb is large it is usually cut up and

used in the same way as mutton, but when small

it is cut in quarters. The fore-quarter consists

of the neck, shoulder, and breast, and the hind-

quarter of the leg and the loin.

If the hind-quarter makes too large a joint the

upper part may be cut into chops and served as

one dish, while the lower portion will make a nice

little roast or may be steamed and served with a

good sauce. Or a larger -sized piece may be cut

off the top and made into a stew or braised.

The fore-quarter may be divided in the same

way, the breast piece being stewed or braised

and the shoulder roasted. The chops from the

neck may also be cut off separately and either

broiled or fried or used for hotch-potch.

Lamb's Head can be used in the same way as

sheep's head and is more delicate in flavour.

Lamb's Fry, consisting of the liver, sweetbread,

and heart, is generally cut in slices and fried.

The sweetbreads alone are considered a great

delicacy and are much used for entr^s.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

111

PORK

Diagram showing different cuts of Pork.

1. Spare Kib. 4. Fore-loin.

2. Hand. 5. Loin.

3. Spring or Belly. 6. Leg.

The usual joints of fresh pork are the follow-

ing :-

The Loin is generally scored and roasted.

Pork chops are also cut from this part.

Leg. - Another piece for roasting. The skin

must always be scored by the butcher, or it

would be impossible to carve the joint. It is

sometimes salted and then boiled.

The Hand and Spring or Belly. - These parts

are rather fat, and are usually salted. They

are best boiled and served cold.

Head. - Usually salted. Can be made into

brawn or boiled and served cold.

Feet (Pettitoes) can be cooked in various

ways. Usually boiled or stewed.

The Tongue should be pickled and then served

in the same way as sheep's tongue.

VENISON

The finest joint for roasting is the Haunch.

The Loin and Neck are also good roasting pieces.

The Shoulder and Breast are better stewed or

made into a ragoHt. Chops are usually cut from

the loin or neck and steaks from the leg,

t №

FROZEN MEAT

Large quantities of meat are now imported

from abroad in a frozen condition and sold

in this country at a considerably lower price

than that of home production. New Zealand,

Australia, the United States, S. America, and

Canada all send us in supplies.

The prejudice against tlois kind of meat has

to a large extent disappeared, and it is certainly

an immense boon to those who cannot afford

the high prices asked for our home-fed meat.

Needless to say, this foreign meat does not

equal British meat as far as quality and flavour

are concerned ; the process of freezing apparently

takes away from its goodness, but with careful

thawing and good cooking it compares very

favourably with the more expensive joints, and

in many cases it requires an experienced palate

to detect the difference.

Mutton and lamb seem to suSer less than beef

from the process of freezing. That known as

Canterbury lamb is the best. When ordering

frozen meat it must be remembered that it will

not keep in warm weather without a refrigerator.

HOW TO CHOOSE FISH

General Hints. - Fish to be good ought to be

in season.

Moderately -sized fish are better than very large

ones, especially those which are thick and plump

in proportion to their size. A short thick fish is

always better than one that is long and thin.

There are several signs by which its freshness

can be judged ; the fish should be firm and stiff,

and when held up the tail should not droop ; but

this alone is not sufficient sign, as fish kept on

ice will retain its rigidity although several days

old, so we must look for other signs as well.

The gills in fresh fish are a bright red, the eyes

are bright and not sunken, and the scales also are

bright and can be easily removed when rubbed.

A flat fish should never be bought without

looking at both sides, and especially the grey

side, as this betrays any want of freshness more

quickly than the white.

A plaice, for instance, can always be judged

by its spots ; when fresh they are a bright red,

and after it has been kept some time they take

a brownish hue.

In choosing cut fish, such as cod, halibut, or

salmon, &c., the flesh should have a firm appear-

ance with a close grain; if it looks fibrous and

watery it is not good.

Never choose fish that is bruised or has the

skin broken, as it will not keep well.

CALENDAR OF FISH IN SEASON

January. - Barbel, bream, brill, carp, cod,

dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut,

hake, herring, hng, mackerel, perch, pike, plaice,

skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench,

thornback, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, slirimps.

February. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory, eels,

flounders, gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring,

ling, mackerel, mullet, plaice, perch, pike,

salmon, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon,

tench, thornback, trout, turbot, whitebait,

whiting.

Crab, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

prawns, scallops, slii-imps.

March. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders,

gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, ling, mackerel,

mullet, pike, salmon, skate, smelts, soles, sprats

(tench until 15th), thornback, trout, tiu-bot,

whiting, whitebait.

112

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

pra'wns, scallops, shrimps.

April. - Bream, brill, chub, conger eel, cod,

dory, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,

ling, mackerel, mullet, plaice, salmon, shad,

skate, smelts, soles, sturgeon, turbot, trout,

whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, ojrsters,

prawns, scallops, shrimps.

May. - Bass, brill, cod, dace, dory, eels,

gurnet, hake, halibut, herring, ling, mackerel,

mullet, salmon, shad, skate, smelts, soles,

sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, scallops,

shrimps.

Jane. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, cod,

dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, halibut,

hake, haddock, herring, lampreys, mackerel,

mullet, porch (after 15th), pike, plaice, salmon,

shad, soles, tench, trout, turbot, wliitebait,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.

Joly. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, dace,

dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, hake,

halibut, herring, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike,

plaice, salmon, sea-bream, shad, smelts, soles,

tench, thornback, trout, turbot, whitebait,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.

August. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, dace,

dory, eels, flounders, giu-nets, haddock, hake,

halibut, herring, lamprey, mackerel, mullet,

plaice, perch, pike, salmon, sea-bream, shad,

soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.

September. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, cod,

chub, dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, had-

dock, hake, halibut, herring, lampreys, mackerel,

mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon, sea-bream,

shad, smelts, soles, tench, trout, turbot, white-

bait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, oysters, shrinaps.

October. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory, eels,

flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,

mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon,

sea-bream, skate, soles, smelts, tench, turbot,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, shrimps.

November. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory,

flounders, eels, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,

mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon

(Dutch), skate, smelts, sprats, soles, tench,

turbot, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, shrimps.

December. - Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders,

gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, mackerel,

mu'let, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch),

sea-bream, skate, smelt, sprats, soles, tench,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, shrimps.

ON CHOOSING GAME AND POULTRY

General Rules for Choosing Poultry. - AH

poultry when young should have smooth and

pliable legs, with the scales overlapping very

slightly. The spur on the leg must be short and

not prominent, and the feet should be soft and

rather moist. If the spur is large and the legs

hard and dry the bird is no longer young. The

flesh should be smooth and without long hairs.

Wlien choosing a bird that has not been plucked

it should be seen that the plumage is smooth and

downy with soft young feathers under the wing

and on the breast. If freshly killed the eyes

will be clear and not sunken ; there will be no

discoloration of the flesh and the vent will be

hard and close.

When poultry is bought quite fresh it may bo

hung for a few days, but should not be dfaw n

until about to be used. It must never be over-

hung, and when it shows the least sign of turning

green it is unfit for food.

Fowls. - The comb should be smooth and of a

bright red colour. For roasting choose a fowl

with black or yellow legs, as they are supposed

to be more juicy and to possess a better flavour.

For boiling, choose one with white legs, as the

flesh will likely be whiter.

A fowl for roasting, frying, or grilling should

be young and tender, but for boiling, braising,

or stewing an older one may be taken, as old

birds are generally cheaper, and long slow

cooking makes them tender.

Geese and Ducks. - Young birds have yellow

feet and bills with few bristles ; as they get older

they become darker and redder, although the

wild duck has small reddish feet even when

young. The feet should be white and smooth

and without wrinkles. A goose must always

be eaten young ; when over twelve months old

it is not good for table use.

Pigeons. - A dark-coloured one is thought to

have the highest flavour, and a light-coloured

one the most delicate. The legs should be of a

pinkish colour ; wlien they are largo and deeply

coloured the bird is old. The tame pig'^on is

smaller than the wild species and is better for

cooking. Tame pigeons shou'd be cooked at

once as they soon lose their flavour, but wood

pigeons may be hung for a few days.

Turlieys. - A good turkey will be recognised by

the whiteness of its flesh and its smooth black legs.

Tlie wattles should be a bright red, the breast

full and the neck long. Beware of those with

long hairs and flesh of a violet hue. A moderate-

sized bird should be chosen. A hen is preferable

for boiling on account of the whiteness of the

flesh, and the cock is usually chosen for roasting.

If freshly killed it should be kept for at least

three or four days before cooking or it will

neither be white not tender. It should be hung

up to bleed.

Norfolk turkeys eire considered the best.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

113

Game. - It is rather more diflBcult to choose

game than it is to choose poultry, as the birds are

usually sold unplucked, but still some of the

same signs will hold good. The young birds

are known by their smooth and pUable legs and

short rounded spurs. The feet should be supple

aVid moist and easily broken. The feathers

also help to indicate the age of the bird, as when

young there are soft and downy ones under the

wing and on the breast. The plumage of the

young bird is even and soft, the long feathers

of the wings are pointed, while in the older bird

these become round and the colours are usually

brighter.

The condition of the bird can be judged by

turning back the feathers of the breast and seeing

if it feels pkunp and hard ; it should also weigh

hea%'y for its size.

As regards the time for keeping game, it is

impossible to lay down any definite rules. To

begin with it depends very much upon in-

dividual taste, those who have it seldom as a

rule Uking it higher than those who are con-

stantly having it. Then old birds can be hung

for a longer time than young ones, and again

the weather must be taken into consideration ;

close muggy days will not be so good for keeping

purposes as those which are dry and cold.

Game should be hung unplucked and un-

drawn and in a current of air if possible. It

must be remembered that if it is required to

taste high when cooked, it should smell almost

offensively so beforehand.

Water birds should always be eaten fresh, as

their flesh, being of an oily nature, very soon

becomes sour.

Hares and Rabbits. - When young the claws

are long and pointed, the cleft in the jaws is

very narrow, the teeth are small and white, and

the ears can easily be torn. The small nut

under the paw should also be well developed.

When the animal is old the claws become

roimded and rough, the cleft in the jaw deepens,

the front teeth are long and yellow, and the ears

become tough and dry, and the little nut under

the paw disappears.

Rabbits, like poultry, should be used fresh.

Choose one that is plump and short-necked, and

the flesh should be stiff without any discolora-

tion. Wild rabbits are generally preferred to

tame ones, as they are considered to have a better

flavour. The flesh of the tame rabbit is wliite

and more delicate. A rabbit should be paunched

before it is hung up.

Hares, on the contrary, require to be well hung

- at least a week - and should not be paunched

until about to be used.

CALENDAR OF POULTRY AND GAME IN

SEASON

The following will be found useful for ready

reference : -

January. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens,

ducks, fowls, geese, hares, larks, landrails,

partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintail, plover,

pullets, snipe, tiu-keys, wild-fowl, widgeon,

woodcock.

February. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens,

ducks, fowls, geese, hares, larks, landrails,

partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintail, plover,

ptarmigan, pullets, prairie-hen, rabbits, snipe,

turkeys, teal, wild-fowl, widgeon, woodcock.

March. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens, ducks,

fowls, geese, guinea-fowls, hares, landrails, orto-

lans (partridges, pheasants, and plover until

middle of month), prairie-hens, ptarmigan,

pigeons, pullets, quail, rabbits, ruffs and reeves,

snipe (until 15th), teal, turkeys, widgeon, wild-

fowl, woodcock.

April. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,

fowls, guinea-fowls, goshngs, hares, leverets,

ortolans, prairie-hens, pigeons, ptarmigan, quail,

rabbit, ruffs and reeves.

May. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,

fowls, guinea-fowls, gosHngs, green geese, hares,

leverets, ortolans, pigeons, ptarmigan, pullets,

quail, rabbits, rufis and reeves.

June. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,

fowls, guinea-fowls, gosUngs, green geese, hares,

hazel hens, leverets, ortolans, pigeons, puUets,

quails, rabbits, ruffs and reeves, turkey poults,

wheatears.

July. - Capons, chickens, ducks, duckhngs,

fowls, green geese, gosUngs, hares, leverets,

ortolans, pigeons, plover, pullets, quail, rabbits,

ruffs and reeves, turkey poults, wheatears.

August. - Capercailzie, capons, chickens, wild

and tame ducks, duckhngs, fowls, geese, gos-

Ungs, grouse (on I2th), hares, larks, leverets,

pigeons, plover, pullets, quails, rabbits, smpe,

teal, turkey poults, woodcock, wheatears.

September. - Capercailzie, capons, chickens,

wild and tame ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, haxes,

larks, leverets, moor-game, partridges, pheasants,

pigeons, plovers, pullets, rabbits, snipe, t\irkeys,

turkey poults, teal, widgeon, woodcock, wheat-

ears.

October. - Black game, capercailzie, capons,

cliickens, wild ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, hares,

larks, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintails,

plover, ptarmigan, pullets, rabbits, snipe,

turkeys, turkey poults, teal, widgeon, wood-

cock.

November. - Black game, capercailzie, capons,

chickens, wild and tame ducks, fowls, geese,

grouse, hares, larks, landrails, peu-tridges,

pheasants, pigeons, pintails, plover, ptarmigan,

pullets, rabbits, snipe, turkeys, turkey poults,

teal, widgeon, woodcock.

December. - Black game, capercailzie (until

20th), capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese,

grouse (until 18th), hares, landrails, larks,

partridges, pheasants, pintail, plover, ptarmigan,

rabbits, snipe, teal, turkeys, turkey poxilts,

\vidgeon, woodcock.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE CHOOSING OF FRUIT AND

VEGETABLES

Although it does not require much experience

to tell when fruit and vegetables are fresh, it

does require some attention and care to see that

one is served with the proper article.

Vegetables are never so good as when pro-

ciired fresh from a garden, and when one is

not the happy possessor of a piece of ground

it is sometimes possible to make an arrange-

ment with a gai'dener or farmer to send a

supply two or three times weekly, if not

daily.

If vegetables and fruit have to be bought from

a shop personal choice is always preferable to

a written order. The greengrocer or fruiterer

is naturally anxious to get rid of his stock, and

it is not to be wondered at if he tries to dispose

of the articles he has had longest before selling

those which are fresh.

The careful housewife will, however, insist

upon getting wliat is really fresh and will accept

nothing that is doubtful.

Salads and other green vegetables especially

are only good when newly gathered ; if they

have been IjHng packed one on top of the other

for any length of time they become unwhole-

some, and this is often the cause of green vege-

tables disagreeing with people who have a weak

digestion.

Cauliflowers should be close and very white,

and those of a medium size are best; avoid

those that have a greenish colovu-.

Brassels Sprouts and Cabbages should be close

and firm with plenty of heart. Young cabbages

are the most delicate in flavour.

Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows should also

be firm, and those of a medium size and straight

in form are to be preferred to the twisted and

overgrown specimens.

Tomatoes must not be over-ripe. Tlio home-

grown red tomatoes are best for salads and for

eating raw, while the foreign ones, which are

cheaper, are excellent for cooking purposes.

Peas and Beans are best when they are young,

especially if they are to be served separately as

vegetables to accompany meat. The older ones

can be served in soups and stews.

Celery should be chosen of a medium size, and

tlie stalks must be very stiff and close -together.

The whiter it is the better.

Root Vegetables, unlike green vegetables, may

bo kept for some time without suffering in any

way ; they must, however, bo firm and not

withered or shrunken. Some kinds, such as

potatoes, carrots, turnips, and parsnips can even

be stored for -winter use (see p. 102). Potatoes,

for instance, can often be bought very cheaply

by the sack in the summer, and there may bo a

distinct advantage in laying in a store at this

season. There must, of course, bo the proper

accommodation for keeping tliom, and the

greatest care must be taken to see that they axe

sound and good when bought.

It is always best to buy the vegetables that

are in season ; they are then at their cheapest

and best. The early and forced varieties rarely

have the same flavour as those of maturcr growth

and should not be bought by the tlirifty house-

wife for the ordinary bill of fare.

The same care must be taken in the choice of

fruit, and only that which is perfectly sound

should bo accepted. Wlien it is to be eaten raw

it ought to be fully ripe without being over-

much so.

CALENDAR OF FRUIT IN SEASON

January. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, medlars, nuts, oranges,

pears, pines, Spanish nuts, walnuts, &c.

February. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, medlars, nuts,

oranges, peaches, pears, pines, rhubarb (forced),

Spanish nuts, walnuts, &c.

March. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, melons, nuts, oranges,

peaches, pears, pines, rhubarb (forced), Spanish

nuts, walnuts, &c.

April. - Almonds, apples, bananas, dried fruits,

figs, grapes, nuts, oranges, pines, rhubarb, &c.

May. - Almonds, apples, apricots (forced),

bananas, cherries (forced), dried fruits, figs,

grapes, green gooseberries, melons, oranges,

pears, pines, rhubarb, &c.

June. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bananas,

cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, grapes,

melons, nectarines, poaches, pears, pines, rasp-

berries, rhubarb, strawberries, &c.

July. - Almonds, apricots, bananas, cherries,

currants, damsons, figs, gooseberries, grapes,

melons, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears,

pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, &c.

August. - Almonds, apricots, bananas, cherries,

cobnuts, currants, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes,

greengages, medlars, melons, mulberries, nectar-

ines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,

raspberries, strawberries, walnuts, &c.

September. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bana-

nas, cherries, cobnuts, damsons, figs, filberts,

grapes, greengages, melons, medlars, mulberries,

nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,

quinces, walnuts, &c.

October. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bananas,

cobnuts, cranberries, cocoanuts, damsons, figs,

filberts, grapes, medlars, melons, nectarines,

oranges, peaches, pears, pines, quinces, walnuts,

&c.

November. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, cocoanuts, cranberries, figs, filberts,

grapes, melons, nuts (various), pears, pines,

pomegranates, plums (Californian), quinces,

walnuts, &c.

December. - Almonds, apples, bananas, cheat-

nuts, cocoanuts, cranberries, figs, filberts, grapes.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

115

melons, nuts (various), oranges, pears, pines,

plums (Californian), pomegranates, rhubai'b

(forced), walnuts, &c.

CALENDAR OF VEGETABLES IN SEASON.

January. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,

Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots,

celery, chervil, cress, cucumbers, endive, leeks,

lettuce, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salsify,

savoys, spinach, tomatoes, turnips.

February. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,

Brussels sprouts, cabbage, celery, chervil, cress,

cucumbers, endive, greens, leeks, lettuce, mush-

rooms, potatoes, onions, parsnips, salsify,

Scotch kale, savoys, sorrel, spinach, tomatoes,

turnips.

March. - Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broc-

coli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots,

cauliflower, celery, chervil, cucumber, endive,

greens, horse-radish, leeks, lettuce, muslirooms,

onions, parsnips, new potatoes, radishes, savoys,

spinach, sea and Scotch kale, turnips, tomatoes,

watercress.

April. - Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, cab-

bage, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, endive,

eschalots, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, spring

onions, parsnips, new potatoes, radishes, sea-

kale, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips.

May. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,

cabbage, new carrots, cauliflower, chervil,

cucumbers, endive, lettuce, leoks, mxishrooms,

mustard and cress, peas, new potatoes, spring

onions, radishes, sea-kale, spinach, turnips,

watercress.

June. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,

new carrots, cucumbers, endive,

greens, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips,

peas, new potatoes, spring onions, radishes,

sea-kale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable

marrow, watercress.

July. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,

broad beans, cabbage, carrots, cauUflower,

chervil, cress, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce,

mushrooms, spring onions, peas, new potatoes,

scarlet runners, spinach, tomatoes, turnipg,

vegetable marrow, watercress.

August. - Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbage,

carrots, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumbers,

endive, leeks, lettuce, muslirooms, peas, pota-

toes, salsify, scarlet runners, spinach, tomatoes,

turnips, vegetable marrow, watercress.

September. - Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cab-

bage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumber,

endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips,

peas, salsify, scarlet runners, spinach, sprouts,

tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, water-

cress.

October. - Artichokes, beetroot, cabbage,

carrots, cauUflower, celery, cucumber, greens,

leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, savoys,

scarlet runners, Spanish onions, spinach, sprouts,

tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, water-

cress.

November. - Artichokes, beetroot, Brussels

sprouts, carrots, celery, cress, cucumber, greens,

leeks, lettuce, parsnips, savoys, Spanish onions,

spinach, tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress.

December. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,

Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower,

celery, cucumber, greens, leeks, parsnips, salsify,

savoys, Scotch and sea-kale, Spanish onions,

tomatoes, turnip tops, vegetable marrow,

watercress.

IMPERIAL WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

Avoirdupois Weight

16 drachms (dr. )

16 ounces

28 pounds

4 quarters . .

20 hundredweights

14 pounds

8 stones

112 pounds

make 1 ounce (oz.).

,, 1 pound (lb.).

" 1 quarter (qr.).

" 1 hundredweight

(cwt.).

1 ton.

make 1 stone.

" 1 hundredweight.

Liquid Measure of Capacity

4 gills make 1 pint (pt.).

2 pints ,,1 quart (qrt.).

4 quarts , 1 gallon (gal.).

Dry Measure of Capacity

2 gallons make 1 peck (pk.).

4 pecks " 1 bushel (bush.).

8 bushels " 1 quarter (qr.).

GUIDE TO COOKERY

It is a very mistaken idea that good cooking is necessarily an expensive matter. On the contrary,

it is the skilful cook who literally " gathers up the fragments that nothing may be lost," and the

careless one who looks upon them aa trifles not worthy of consideration.

We as a nation are very much behindhand in our cooking arrangements, and it is only now that

we are beginning to realise that training in the subject should form an important branch of every

girl's education.

It is Hamerton who says that " Intellectual labour is in its origin as dependent upon the art of

cookery as the dissemination of its results is dependent upon paper-making and printing. Cookery

in its perfection - the great science of preparing food in the best way suited to our use - is really the

most important of all sciences and the mother of the arts."

In the following paragraphs elaborate dishes which require the skill of a professed cook, very

expensive dishes and dishes which take a long time to prepare have been purposely excluded, and

only those given which are within the power of the amateur and home-worker. It cannot be too

emphatically ui'ged, however, that to ensure success great care is needed in the preparation of every

dish.

The cook, whether professional or amateur, owes something to the author of the recipes she uses,

and that debt is not discharged if the recipes are carelessly read and carelessly followed. Nearly

every one has heard the remark, " I am sure I don't know why the dish is like this - the recipe must be

^\Tong." The recipe cannot reply : can only defend itself by success, and so in the interests of fair

play it ought to receive just treatment. Accuracy in the weighing and measuring of ingredients must

be strongly insisted upon. Cooking may be an art, but it is also a science, and to ensure success we

must be exact. There must bo no guess-work. An ounce more or less may bring ruin on your

labours.

Let all your materials be good of their kind, and do not of set purpose substitute one ingredient

for another.

See also that the fire is in good condition for the cooking required of it, or that the oven is in a

fair way to be at the right heat by the time you are ready to use it.

Lastly, do not scorn those little details of arrangement which add nothing to the taste, but only

to the tastcfulness of the dish. A little fresh parsley, a lace-edged paper, a sprinkling of sugar, &c.,

may make all the difference between a tempting and an untompting dish.

STOCKS, SOUPS, AND PUREES

GeDeral Remarks on Stocks and Soups. - It is

quite an art to make a good soup, but it is an

art easily mastered if only a little care and

trouble are expended upon its acquirement.

There are few things, whether fish, flesh, fowl

or vegetable, which will not lend themselves to

soup-making. The variety of soups is very

great ; in fact, it has been reckoned that there

are over half a thousand different recipes. This

number, however, is obtained by giving a separ-

ate) title to every separate variation of a com-

bination. For example, clear stock, which is

the basis of so many clear soups, will take a

different name from each special garnish or

flavouring that is added to it, and the same

throughout with the other soups - the slightest

variations will furnish the occasion for a dis-

tinctive name. When the numerous recipes come

to be examined, it will bo found that, broadly

speaking, they can be classified under one of the

three following headings : -

(1) Clear Soups and Broths.

(2) Thickened Soups.

(3) Purees.

An explanation of these different classes of

soups is given below, along with a few typical

recipes, which ought to serve as a guide to the

other varieties.

The excellence of the soup will depend to a

largo extent upon slow and steady cooking and

to the judicious introduction of the flavouring.

Although all soup should bo sufficiently seasoned

116

GUIDE TO COOKERY

117

before it is sent to table, salt must always be

added with care, as an over -salted soup can be

relished by no one.

In the following recipes the approximate

amount of liquid required is always given, but

the exact quantity will depend somewhat upon

the rate of cooking. If the soup becomes too

much reduced by boiling and, consequently, too

thick, more water or stock must be added to

make up the original allowance.

Tlie vegetables, too, are always spoken of as

'prepared, and full directions for doing this will

be found under the heading of " Vegetables."

STOCK

Stock is the foundation of nearly all soups,

and it can be made from fresh meat, bones,

fish, vegetables, or scraps of cooked meat and

bones, &c.

For the better soups, such aa clear soup and

good whito soup, fresh meat is required, while

second stock or general stock will serve as the

foundation for many of the ordinary soups, and,

besides furnishing the Hquid part of stews,

whether white or brown, it wiU go a long way

towards making gravies and sauces a success.

There are different kinds of stock, i.e. brown,

white, and fish stock, meat boilings and general

stock. Of brown stock and white stock both a

first and second stock can be made.

Brown stock is made principally from beef with

sometimes a little veal or some chicken bones

added.

White stock is made from any white meat such

as veal, rabbit, or chicken.

First stock is the first boiling of the meat and

vegetables.

Second stock is produced by putting the meat

and vegetables on to boU a second time with

fresh water.

Fish stock, as its name implies, is made from

fish or fish trimmings.

Meat boilings is the name given to the water

in which a joint of meat, fowl, or rabbit has

been boiled.

General stock is made from scraps of meat,

bones, and vegetables, and drawn from a stock-

pot.

PmST STOCK FOR CLEAR AND BROWN

SOUPS

Ingredients -

3 lbs. Shin of Beef or 2 lbs.

Shin of Beef and 1 lb.

Knuckle of Veal. •

3 quarts Cold Water.

1 Carrot.

1 Turnip.

1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs

or a sprig of Thyme,

Marjoram, and Basil.

Method,

2 small Onions.

2 or 3 sticks of Celery or J

tea-spoonful Celery Seed.

2 dozen Peppercorns.

8 Cloves.

1 blade of Mace.

2 Bay Leaves.

A few Parsley Stalks.

. dessert-spoonful Salt.

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth.

a very sharp knife and cut the meat into small

pieces, keeping back any fat, but using the skin.

Put the bones and meat into a stock-pot or

large goblet with the cold water and salt, and

if time permits let them soak for half-an-hour ;

then put the pan on the fire, and bring the

contents slowly to tire boil. Simmer slowly

for haK-an-hour, and then remove any scum

that may be on the top. If you begin the

skimming too soon, the best part of the stock

is removed. Next add the vegetables, prepared

and cut rather small, and the herbs, celery seed,

and peppercorns, &c., tied in a small piece of

muslin. Simmer slowly from four and a half to

five hours, never letting it go oif the boil ; then

strain through a hair sieve or cloth stretched

over a colander into a basin, and stand until

cold.

A darker-coloured stock may be obtained by

frying the meat in a little dripping or butter

before pouring on the water ; but the present

fashion is to have clear soups pale in colour.

Meat boilings may be used instead of water

for making this stock, and any uncooked chicken

bones would improve the flavour. Do not

throw away the meat and vegetables left after

straining, but put them on again with same

quantity of water as before, and boil again

for Second Stock,

FIRST STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS

Ingredients -

3 lbs. Knuckle of Veal or

2 lbs. Knuckle of Veal and

1 lb. Neck of Mutton.

3 quarts Cold Water.

J Carrot.

i Turnip.

1 Onion.

12 White Peppercorns.

1 stick of Celery, or J tea-

spoonful Celery Seed.

6 or 8 Cloves.

J tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs

or a small sprig of Thyme,

Marjoram, and Basil.

1 blade of Mace.

2 Bay Leaves.

and removo all marrow from the bone. Take

1 dessert-spoonful Salt.

Method. - Make in the same way as first

stock for brown soup (see above), but use

fewer vegetables, as they tend to discolour the

stock. Rabbit or chicken may be used instead

of, or along with, the veal. Any white meat

will do. A piece of lean ham or a small ham-

bone will improve the flavour.

A second stock may be taken from the meat

and bones.

SECOND STOCK

After first stock is made, the meat and vege-

tables should be put on again with the same

quantity of water and boiled as before.

It has not the same fresh flavour as first

stock, but it is most useful in the making of

sauces and gravies, and of many soups for

which very good stock is not required.

Second stock is generally a stifier jelly than

first, as more of the gelatine becomes extracted

from the bones.

Sometimes the meat and vegetables are fried

118

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

in a little dripping first. This gives the stock

a darker colour and a richer flavour.

FISH STOCK

or a sprig of Thyme, Mar-

joram, and Biisil.

A few Parsley Stalks.

1 dozen Peppercorns.

3 Cloves.

1 blade of Mace.

1 Bay Leaf.

1 dessert-spoonful Salt.

Ingredients-

2 lbs. of White Fish or Fish

Bones and Triroiuiugs.

2 quarts Cold Water.

1 small Carrot.

1 small Turnip.

1 Onion.

1 stick of Celerj' or J tea-

spoonful Celery Seed.

1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs

Method. - Any white fish or trimmings of

white fish, such as haddocks, cod, halibut,

plaice, flounder, ling, "&c., may be used for

fish stock. Fish such as mackerel, herring,

and salmon are of too oily a nature and too

strong in flavour. By fish trimmings is meant

the bones, heads, fins, and skins of fish. If a

light-coloured stock is wanted, avoid using too

much dark-coloured skin. Wetsh the fish or

trimmings thoroughly in cold water, and cut

them into small pieces. Put them into a fish-

kettle or large goblet with the water and salt.

Put the lid on the pan, and bring to the boil ;

then skim well, and simmer about fifteen

minutes before adding the vegetables. As more

scum rises remove it, or the stock will be

cloudy in appearance. Prepare the vegetables,

cut them rather small, and add them to the

stock with the herbs, celery seed, pepper-

corns, &c., tied in a small piece of miislin.

Simmer slowly from three to four hours, then

strain into a basin.

This stock may be used as a basis for all fish

soups and fish sauces.

A whiter stock may be obtained by using

half milk and half water, fewer vegetables, and

by straining after half-an-hour's slow simmering.

VEGETABLE STOCK

Ingredients -

2 Onions.

2 medium-sized Carrots.

1 medium-sized Tuniip.

2 sticks Celery.

2 quarts Water.

Salt.

8 oz. Lentils.

A sprig of Parsley.

" Thyme.

,, Marjoram.

12 Black Peppercorns.

1 blade Mace.

3 or 4 Cloves.

Method. - Prepare the vegetables and cut

them in pieces. Put them in a saucepan with

the water and seasoning, and boil all together

for two or three hours. More water must bo

added if the liquid becomes too much reduced.

Skim well, strain, and it is ready for use.

^ote. - Almost any kind of vegetable may

be used for making this stock, and the more

variety the better. The trimmings and even

the parings of vegetables can be utilised in

this way, only care must be taken to see that

they are thoroughly clean and fresh.

GENERAL STOCK- THE STOCK-POT

In every household where moat is used every

day a stock-pot sl\ould be in general use. A

regular stock-pot is inade of tiiined copper, tinned

iron, aluminium, or cast iron. In large houses

where much cooking is done it is better to havo

one fitted with a tap, which will permit of the

Stock-Pot.

liquid being drawn off when required without dis-

turbing the fat, which rises to the top. For small

households an ordinary tinned or silicated sauce-

pan will serve the purpose very well, or what is

known as a digester, which is made of cast iron

with a close-fitting hd. This latter is not ex-

pensive, but it has the disadvantage of being very

hea%'y. An earthenware casserole or marmite

is also to be recommended for small quantities

of stock ; it is very clean, and it is easy to keep

the coni^ents simmering at a gentle rate.

All scraps of meat, cooked or uncooked, bones

and pieces of vegetable, poultry giblets and

rinds of bacon, should be kept for making stock.

Earthenware Casserole.

Remains of gra^^ too should be saved for the

same purpose, although no tliickenod sauco

must be added, as it would cloud the stock.

Look over the scraps carefully and see that

they are all clean and free from taint. Break

up the bones, remove any fat from the meat,

and cut the vegetables in small pieces. Put

them into the stock-pot with cold water to cover

them, or the water in which meat or vegetables

(except potatoes or cabbage) have been cooked

may be used. Add a little salt, put on the lid,

and bring the contents slowly to the boil. Then

keep the stock slowly simmering at an even

temperature, taking off the lid from time to

GUIDE TO COOKERY

119

time in order to remove the scum. A few

washed and crushed egg-shells put into the

stock will help to clear it. One whole day's

cooking will be sufficient, and at night it must

be strained through a hair sieve into a basin

and allowed to cool. The stock-pot should be

thoroughly washed before it is used again.

Tlie bones and any pieces of meat of value

may be put on the next day with any fresh

scraps, but not the vegetables if they have been

boiled for long, because when the flavour of

these has been extracted they become worse

than useless, and only absorb the meaty

flavours.

Nothing must be added to a stock-pot Txnless

it is quite clean and contains some goodness.

Little bits must not be added at odd times, but

only when the stock-pot is put on for the day ;

all other pieces should be saved for the next

day's use.

Stock should always be made the day before

it is required, as by this means the fat can easily

be removed.

To Remove Fat from Stock. - Have in readiness

two iron spoons, a basin of boiling water, a

cloth, and a small basin or dish into which to

put the fat.

Heat the spoons in the boiling water, and

use first one and then the other to skim off the

fat. The spoons, being hot, melt the fat, and

make it much more easily removed.

When as much as possible has been taken off

with the spoons, dip the end of the cloth into

boiling water, and wipe the stock over with

this until quite free from grease. If the stock

is not a jelly, pieces of kitchen paper must

be passed over the t-^p of it instead of the

cloth.

Do not remove fat from stock or soup until it

is about to be used, as it keeps out the air and

helps to preserve it.

GLAZE

Glaze can either be bought by the oiince or

made at home from stock. Glaze, as a rule, costs

2d. per ounce, and this quantity will be sufficient

to glaze an ox-tongue or a fair-sized piece of meat.

Put the glaze into a small saucepan with sufficient

water or stock to cover it, and allow it to melt

slowly over the fire. Or put it into a jar with

a very little water or stock, and stand the jar in

a saucepan of boiling water until the glaze is

melted. It will then be ready for use.

Home-made glaze can be very easily procured

in houses where there are large quantities of

stock anil bones at disposal. Any good brown

stock can be used, and the second boilings from

meat and bones is almost preferable to freshly-

made stock, as it is more gelatinous. Free the

stock from all grease, and put at least one quart

into a saucepan. Allow tliis to boil quickly with

the lid off the pan until reduced to about half

a pint, skimming when necessary. Tlien strain

through a very fine strainer or piece of muslin,

and reduce again in a aimaller saucepan until

the glaze becomes as thick as treacle, when it

will be ready for use.

If not required at once, it should be poured

into a jar, and if a little melted lard is poured

over the surface the glaze will keep good for

weeks. In fact, this is a very good way of pre-

serving any surplus stock, as a little glaze is

useful at all times for enriching soups and sauces

as well as for coating meat, &c., and, diluted with

water, it will again take the form of stock.

To Glaze Meat. - Have the glaze prepared as

above and in a melted condition, but not too

hot. Use a small paint-brush or egg-brush, and

paint the meat all over with it in even straight

strokes. If one coating is not sufficient allow

the first one to cool, and brush the meat over

again as before. Meanwhile keep the glaze in

a melted state by putting the pan or jar con-

taining it in a saucepan half full of hot water.

Do not waste any glaze that is left, but pour

it carefully into a clean jar ready for future

use, and rinse the brush and saucepan with

boiling water, which pour into the stock-pot.

CLEAR SOUPS AND BROTHS

Clear Soups (Consommes). - The basis of these

soups is good brown stock, which is clarified

according to directions given on page 120.

While first stock is always to be preferred for

the purpose, it is quite possible to utilise good

second stock, only the soup thus obtained is

liable to be rather gelatinous in flavour and

somewhat lacking in that fresh meaty taste,

which is one of the chief characteristics of good

conso)7i7ne.

The different clear soups take their distinctive

name from the garnish that is added to them.

There may also be some variation in the meat

used for the stock - as in clear game, oxtail,

or txirtle soup, &c.

Clear soups are amongst the most expensive

soups to make, and at the same time they sire

the most generally used, especially if a dinner

consists of several courses, as they are hght

and strengthening without being rich and

satisfying.

A good consomme should be of a rich amber

colour, and this must be obtained without

the addition of caramel, which would spoil the

flavom*.

Broths. - A Broth differs from a clear soup in

that it is unclarified, and the meat with which

it is made is either served in the soup or lifted

out and served as a separate course.

There is usually a garnish of rice or barley

and cut-up vegetables, or the vegetables may

be cut in larger pieces and served as an ac-

companiment to the meat.

A broth is a very substantial soup and qviite

120

THE \VO]\IAN'S BOOK

unBuited as the prelude to a long dinner. It

forms almost a meal in itself and is excellent as

a luncheon dish, especinlly in cold weather or

for a nursery dinner. It is always acceptable

too to those who have been working in the open

air or engaged in sports. It is one of the niost

ecoaoroical forms of soup.

Clear Soup

(Fr. Consomm6)

Ingredients -

1 quart good Brown or First

Stock.

6 OS. lean Juicy Beef.

1 lump of Sugar.

1 white and shell of Egg.

Method - Carefully remove all fat from the

top of the stock, and put it into a clean lined

or copper saucepan. Wipe the beef with a

damp cloth, and shred it down finely with a

knife, or put it through the mincing macliine,

removing all fat and skin. Add this to the

stock with the white of the egg and the shell

well washed. Whisk these over the fire with a

wire whisk until the soup just comes to boiling

point. Then remove the whisk and let it boil

well up. Draw the pan to the side of the fire

where the soup will keep warm, but not siijamer,

and cover it over with a plate or saucepan lid.

Let it stand from ten to fifteen minutes. Tie a

clean cloth on to

a soup - stand or

the four legs of a

chair tm-ned up-

side down, letting

it fall slightly in

the middle so as

to form a bag.

Pour some boiling

water through the

cloth into a basin

to thoroughly heat

the cloth. Put a

clean diy basin

underneath, and

pour the soup

gently through the

cloth. The soup

will not be clear

the first time, as it

gets shaken with the straining, so change the

basin and pour the soup through again, repeating

this process until the soup runs through quite

clear. In reheating add a lump of sugar,

which makes the soup sparkle.

Notes. - The various consommes take their

names from the different garnishes that are

addr>d to this soup.

The following are a few of the many vsirleties : -

Consomme & la Brunoise. - A garnish of cooked

carrot, turnip, celery, leeks - cut in dice.

Consom.m4 A la Celestine. - With fine slu-eds of

savoury pancake.

For clearing soup.

Consomme d la Crecy. - Garnish of Httle balls

of glazed carrot.

Cori^omtni d'Orleans. - Garnish of small green

and wliite quenelles.

Consomme d la Florentine. - ^With cheese

quenelles.

Consomm4 A V Impiratrice. - Garnish of poached

eggs.

Consommi d la Jardinilre. - With mixed

vegetables cut in pretty shapes.

Consonwii Jerusalem. - Witii little balls of

cooked Jerusalem artichokes.

Consomme d la Julienne. - With different

vegetables cut in long thin strips.

Consomme aux Pdtes d'ltalie. - With Italian

paste in fancy shapes.

Consomme d la Printaniire. - With spring

vegetables and young green peas.

Consomme Royale, - With rounds or dice of

custard.

When the garnish is made of vegetables these

should be cooked separately and only added to

the soup at the last. Root vegetables should

be cooked in a little stock and seasoned with

salt and a pinch of sugar. The stock should

then be allowed to reduce to a glaze. Fine green

vegetables, such as green peas, asparagus points,

or French beans, should simply be steamed or

boiled carefully in a little water.

Various fancy cutters can be bought for cutting

vegetables in fancy shapes.

For quenelles use a small quantity of nicely

made quenelle meat, put it into a forcing-

bag and force out fancy shapes or small balls

on a greased tin, then poach in boiling stock or

water.

ItaUan paste or macaroni must also be cooked

and rinsed in cold water previous to adding it

to the consomme, otherwise it would destroy

the clearness of the soup. There are scores of

garnishes for clear soup besides those given

above ; in fact, new names are constantly being

invented, and a special event or a passing fashion

will furnish the occasion for a new name, which

in most cases means only a very small variation

in a well-known soup.

Chicken Broth

(Fr. Bouillon de Poulet)

1 table-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Pepper and salt.

Ingredients-

1 Chicken.

2 or 3 pints Cold Water.

1 table-spoonful Rice or

crushed Tapioca.

Method. - Draw and singe the chicken, and

make it very clean. The inferior part^ will do

quite well for making the broth. The breast

may be cut off and reserved for some other dish.

Cut the rest of the chicken into joints first, then

take all the meat from the bones and cut it into

small pieces. Chop the bones and wash any

part which does not look perfectly clean. Keep

GUIDE TO COOKERY

121

laack any soft fat, but use the skin. Wash the

neck well, and let it soak in cold water and salt

for some time to draw out the blood. Open the

gizzard and remove the bag of stones from the

inside, then wash it well, pulUng off all the fat

skin from the outside. Remove the gall-bag

very carefully from the liver, cutting it away

with a pair of scissors, and wash the liver well.

Also wash the heart and scald the feet, letting

them lie in boiling water for a short time, and

then scrape them well.

Take a clean lined saucepan, put into it the

meat, bones, skin, neck, Uver, gizzard, heart,

and feet. Add the salt and enough cold water

to well cover all ; the quantity depends upon

the size of the fowl used. Put the lid on the pan

and bring slowly to the boil, then skim several

times until the broth looks quite clear. Allow

the broth to simmer from four to five hours until

the goodness is well extracted from the bones, &c.,

skimming when necessary. Strain the broth

through a fine strainer or hair sieve, and let it

stand till cold. Then remove all fat from the

top of the broth, return to a saucepan, and

thicken according to taste. If rice is used, wash

it well and cook in the broth until tender. If

tapioca, bring the broth to the boil, sprinkle in

the tapioca, and cook for ten minutes, until

quite clear. Season to taste, and add the chopped

parsley last. If small pieces of chicken are liked

served in the soup, the best plan is to lift some

of the nice pieces out of the broth as soon as

they are cooked, but before all the goodness is

extracted, and reserve these for returning to the

broth just before serving. A more economical

broth can be made by using a piece of mutton

or veal along with the chicken.

Sometimes the chicken is kept whole and

served as a separate course ; in this case small

pieces of vegetable or thinly sliced leeks might

be cooked with it, and the rice or tapioca added

about half-an-hour before serving.

Note. - A more highly flavoured broth may

be made by cooking small pieces of vegetable

along with the chicken.

Cockle Leekie

An old cock, along with a plentiful supply of

leeks, is generally used for this soup, hence the

name. Make in the same way as chicken broth

(see above), allowing double the quantity of

water and rice and six or eight leeks.

Ingredients -

Hotch Potch

2 quarts Mutton Broth.

Equal quantities of young

Carrots, Turnips, and

Spring Onions.

1 Lettuce.

1 Cauliflower.

1 pint Green Peas.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Paraley.

1} lbs. Lamb or small Mutton

Cutlets.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Put the mutton broth or water in

"which some mutton has been boiled into a sauce-

pan, and bring it to the boil. Clean some young

carrots, turnips, and onions ; cut the carrots

and turnips into very small neat pieces, and the

onions into thin sUces. About one teacupful of

each will be required. Put them into the sauce-

pan with the broth, and boil quickly for half-an-

hoiir. Trim the chops neatly, removing most

of the fat ; add them next with the flower of

the cauliflower broken into small pieces, and

the lettuce finely shred. Simmer the soup

slowly for one hoiir longer, then add the peas,

and cook until they are soft. Add the parsley

last, and season with pepper and salt.

Mutton Broth

{Fr. Bouillon de Mouton)

Ingredients -

IJ lbs. Neck or Knuckle of (" 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped

Mutton. Parsley.

3 pints Cold Water. A small piece each of Carrot,

1 table-spoonful Rice or Turnip, Onion, and Celery.

Barley. I Pepper and salt.

Method. - Wipe the meat, and cut it awaj'^

from the bone and into small pieces, removing

any superfluous fat. Prepare the vegetables,

and cut them into small neat pieces. Put the

meat, bones, and water into a saucepan with a

little salt, put on the lid, and bring slowly to

the boil. Sldm well ; add the rice well washed,

or the barley washed and blanched, and the

prepared vegetables. Simmer from two to

tliree hours, or until the vegetables are well

cooked. Remove the bones, and any grease

from the top of the stock; add the parsley, pepper,

and more salt if necessary before serving.

Another way of making this broth is to keep

the meat whole and to serve it as a separate

course with a httle of the liquid broth strained

round it. The vegetable should then be added

in rather larger pieces and used as a garnish to

the meat. The broth itself may also be finished

differently. After the meat and vegetables

have been removed, switch it for a few minutes

with a wire wliisk, then beat up an egg in a

basin, pour it into the soup-tureen and pour

the soup slowly on to it. This makes a very

delicious soup.

Pot au Feu

Ingredients -

1 lbs. shin of Beef or shoulder

of Beef.

i quarts Cold Water.

2 oz. crashed Tapioca or

Sago.

2 Carrots.

1 Turnip.

1 Parsnip.

3 sticks of Celery.

3 Leeks.

A bunch of Herbs.

1 Cabbage.

20 Black Peppercorns.

6 Cloves.

1 small blade of Mace.

Salt.

Method. - Break up the bones, wipe the meat

with a damp cloth, and tie it into shape with a

piece of tape. Put them into a large saucepan

or earthenware casserole with the water, and

bring to the boil. Add one dessert-spoonful of

122

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Bait, and skim well. Tlien simmer very gently

for two hours. Meanwhile have all tho vegetables

carefully cleaned and prepared, and, with the

exception of the cabbage, cut them in moderate-

sized pieces and tie them in a piece of muslin.

When the meat has simmered the required time,

add the vegetables to the pan, with a bunch of

herbs and the spicos, also tied in a piece of

musUn. Simmer gently for two hours more.

Then add the cabbage, cleaned and trimmed,

cut in two, and tied together with string. Cook

again imtil the cabbage is tender from half to

three-quarters of an hour. Tlien lift out tho

meat on to a hot dish, undo the tape, garnish

with the vegetables, and pour some of the liquid

round as gravy. Serve the cabbage separately

in a vegetable dish, remo\'ing the string. Re-

move the herbs and spices from the stock in the

pan, sprinkle in the sago or tapioca, and cook

until transparent about fifteen minutes. Season

to taste, slvim well, and serve in soup-tureen.

Note. - Pot au Feu is the favourite dish in

many French households.

Spring Soup

{Fr. Potage Printaniere)

Make in the same way as Hotch Potch (p. 121),

omitting the meat.

Veal Broth

(Fr. Bouillon de Veau)

Make in the same way as Mutton Broth (p. 121).

THICKENED SOUPS

Thickened soups can be made of fish, meat,

or vegetables, and they generally have some

stock as their basis. The stock may be either

brown, white, fish, or vegetable, according to the

nature of the soup, or sometimes a mixture of

stock and milk, or milk and water is used.

Some starchy or farinaceous material, such

as flour, arrow-root, cornflour, tapioca, &c.,

generally supplies the thickening property, or,

in the case of the richer soups, a liaison or com-

bination of eggs and cream is used.

Portions of the substance of which the soup is

made are frequently served in it as in kidney

soup and ox-tail soup. Care must be taken

not to make those soups too tliick.

Cabbage Soup

Ingredients -

1 Cabbage.

1 small Onion or Ixsek.

1 quart Meat Boilings.

i pint Millc.

1 table-siKX)nful crushed

Tapioca.

Method. - Wash the cabbage well in cold

water, and remove the coarse outside leaves and

any hard pieces of stalk. Separate all the leaves.

I tea-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Some crofttons of Toasted

Bread.

White Pepper and Salt.

and let thorn soak in cold water and salt for

half-an-hoiu". Then drain the water away, and

slired the leaves finely. Put the shred cabbage

into a saucepan of fast-boiUng water, salted in

the proportion of one dessertspoonful to the

quart, boil quickly for five minutes, and then

drain. Slice the onion or leek very thinly, and

chop it finely, put it into a saucepan with the

cabbage and stock or meat boilings, and simmer

for twenty minutes. Add tho milk and crushed

tapioca, and cook for ten minutes longer, or

until the tapioca turns quite clear. Add the

parsley just before serving, and season to taste

with white pepper and salt. Put some small

croiitons of toasted bread into tho soup-tureen,

and pour the soup, boiUng hot, over them.

Calf's Tail Soup

(Fr. Potage de Queue de Veau)

Ingredients -

2 Tails.

3 pints White Stock,

i pint Milk.

IJ oz. Butter.

IJ oz. Flour.

A Bay Leaf.

Some Parsley Stalks.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

2 Yolks.

1 gill of Cream. .

J Carrot.

A small piece of Turnip.

1 Onion.

6 Cloves.

1 glass of Sherry.

1 oz. grated Parmesan.

Method. - Wash the tails, and cut them into

pieces about IJ inches long ; put them into a

saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover

them, bring to the boil, and pour the water away.

Rinse out the saucepan, and return the pieces

of tail to it with the stock, bring to the boil

again, and skim well. Add the vegetables all

carefully cleaned, and cut in small pieces, the

bay leaf, cloves, nutmeg, and parsley stalks.

Put the lid on the pan, and simmer slowly from

one and a half to two hours, or until the meat

wiU slip quite easily from the bones ; then strain

through a wire sieve into a basin, and remove

all fat from the stock. Melt the butter in a

saucepan, but do not brown it, add the flour,

and mix smoothly together with a wooden spoon ;

then pour on tho stock, stir over the fire until

boiling, and allow it to boil about five minutes.

Boat up the yolks of eggs in a basin with the

cream, add the sherry, and strain these into tho

soup, stirring all the time. Add the pieces of tail

and seasoning to taste, but do not boil again.

Put the grated cheese into tho soup -tureen, and

pour the boiling soup on to them.

Note. - The cheese may bo omitted.

Cauliflower and Lettuce Soup

(Fr. Potage de Choufleur et de Laitues)

Ingredients -

a large Cauliflower.

1 small Lettuce.

1 quart Meat Boilings or

Second White Stock.

1 oz. crushed Tapioca or

small Sago.

1 oz. Butter.

White Pepper .ind Salt.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped Parsley.

Method. - Use the wliito part only of the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

123

cauliflower. Cut it into small pieces, wash in

cold water. Then scald in fast-boiling water

for five minutes and drain.

Put the stock into a saucepan, and bring it to

the boil. Throw in the pieces of cauliflower, and

boil them until tender, about half-an-hour ; then

add the milk, the butter, and the lettuce cut in

fine short shreds. Sprinkle in the tapioca or

sago, and cook all together for ten minutes

longer, stirring frequently. Season to taste, and

add the parsley at the end.

Curry Soup (White)

{Fr. Potage au Cari (Blanche))

Ingredients -

IJ pints White Stock or

Meat Boilings.

1 table-spoonful Curry

Powder.

1 oz. Cornflour.

2 table-spoonfuls Cream .

1 yolk of Egg.

1 table-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

Squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Small pieces of Chicken or

Rabbit.

Boiled Rice.

Method. - ^Any light stock, or the water in

which a fowl, rabbit, or piece of veal has been

boiled, will do for this soup. Put the stock into

a saucepan, and bring it to the boil. Put the

curry powder and cornflour into a basin, add

the milk graduallj' to them, mixing with an iron

spoon until smooth. Add this to the stock, stir

until boiling, and simiuer for ten minutes. Then

draw the pan to the side of the fire, and strain

in the cream and yolk of egg mixed together.

Season to taste, and sprinkle in the parsley. If

possible, add smie small pieces of cliicken or

rabbit. Stir the soup over the fire until almost

boiling. Do not boil, or the yolk of egg will

curdle. Squeeze in the lemon juice, and pour

the soup into a hot soup-tureen. Serve with

plain boiled rice, on a separate dish (see p. 157).

Lettuce Soup

{Fr. Potage de Laitues)

Ingredients -

2 large Lettuces

i lb. Spinach.

2 or 4 Spring Onions.

3 oz. Butter.

2 pints light Stock.

1 or 2 yolks of Eggs,

i gill of Cream.

Method. - Wash the vegetables, drain and cut

in fine shreds. Put them into a stewpan with

the butter and seasoning, and cook them over

the fire for ton minutes, stirring all the time with

a wooden spoon. Add the stock, wliicb mny

either be vegetable stock or boilings from meat,

and simmer from three-quarters of an hour to

one hour. Draw the saucepan to the side of

the fire and add the yolk of egg and cream

mixed together. The soup must not boil

again.

Mock Turtle Soup

{Fr. Potage do Faasse Tortue)

Ingredients -

J Calf's Head.

J quart Cold Water.

1 glass Sheery.

} tea-spoonful Celery Seed.

2 Bay Leaves.

1 blade of Mace.

A sprig of Parsley, Tliyme,

and Marjoram.

Pepper and Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Force-meat Balls.

4 Carrot.

i Turnip.

1 Onion.

2 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Cornflour.

6 Cloves.

3 oz. lean Ham or a Ham-

bone.

Method. - ^Wash the head well, removing the

brains, which are not used in the soup, but may

be kept for some small savoury dish. Take

away all the gristle from the nostrils, and let the

head soak in cold water, with a handful of salt

in it, for half-an-hour at least. Then blanch it

- that is, put it into a saucepan with cold water

to cover it - bring to the boil, pour the water

away, and wash the head again in cold water.

Cut all the flesh from the bones, and tie it in a

piece of muslin. Put it with the bones and

water into a large saucepan, and let it simmer

gently, skimming occasionally, for three and a

half hours. Then strain the stock through a hair

sieve, and let it stand till cold. Melt the

butter in a saucepan, have the vegetables and

ham cut into small pieces, and fry them in it

with the herbs and spices. Let them get a nice

hght brown colour, and stir well to keep them

from burning. Then add the cornfloiir, and

mix it smoothly in. Remove all fat from the

top of the stock, pour it into the saucepan, and

stir until boiling. Add pepper and salt to taste,

and simmer slowly for one and a half hours.

Remove any scum that may rise. Strain through

a hair sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan,

and return the soup to it to reheat. Add the

wine and lemon juice, and serve in it force-meat

balls (see p. 179) and small pieces of the heeid

cut into dice.

Oyster Soup

{Fr. Potage aus Huitres)

Ingredients -

2 doz. fresh Oysters or 3 doz

tinned Oysters.

2 pints White or Fish Stock

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

A pinch of Cayenne.

1 gill of Cream.

2 yolks of Eggs.

1 tea-spoonful

Essence.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice,

White Pepper and Salt.

Anchovy

Method. - Put the oysters into a small sauce-

pan with their outi liqiior, bring them almost to

the boil, then strain, saving the hquor. Beard

the oysters (that is, remove the piece like a

fringe that encircles them), cut them in two, and

put them aside for serving in the soup. Put the

beards into a saucepan with the liquor and the

stock, and let them simmer for half-an-hour, to

extract all the flavour from them. If the stock

is not previously well flavotired, small pieces of

124

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the different flavouring vegetables should also

be cooked in it. Strain tlirough a fine hair

sieve or piece of muslin, and rinse out the sauce-

pan ready for use. First melt in it the butter,

being careful it does not brown, add to it the

flour, and mix together until quite smooth.

Pour on the stock, and stir constantly over tho

fire until boiling. Skim if necessary. Season

to taste with a little white pepper, salt, ancho\^

essence, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up the

yolks of eggs in a basin with the cream, draw the

pan with the soup in it to one side of the fire,

and strain them into it, stirring all the time.

Reheat, but do not boil again. Add a squeeze

of lemon juice. Put the oysters into the soup-

tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve.